The "Everything about building your own custom stick thread" thread.

[chippermonky]

It's about time we have one. THere are contstantly pointless threads that pop up and I can't blame them because the info they want is buried 50 feet deep in troll turd. I'll edit as I see fit. Please post any helpful additions/requests. Sticky please

Oh, and as a small note, I'd prefer to keep this as a resource thread containing mostly llinks in interest of saving space. Of course, this rule is not set in stone.

And i finally, there is now some info about modding under "misc", Maybe I'll link to some specific modding guides out there later..

edit: fixed some links

Complete guides:
-A very nice complete guide (very comprehensive wiring section too) for building 2 player p360s. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jdpyle1/index.htm
-paik4life's very comprehensive stick bulidng journal http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=111273&highlight=hacking (As paik said himself though, his method is different from standard methods and takes more work/time/skill however producing amazing results, go check out his stuff for youself :). In any case, the painting guide in his journal is still excellent)
-http://mysite.verizon.net/res8l8d9/joystick_builder/base/interior.htm (it WAS a great guide, but the site is down now, lets hope it gets back up soon)

Mods:
-Futhamucka's VERY nicely made guide on modding an agetec green goblin, includes much info about surface preperation and painting. (hot stuff) http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117178 and http://jonesey.clawz.com/joystick2/
-Another agetec mod, includes in depth info on mounting a seimitsu inside. http://www.tychom.org/stick/


Woodworking guides:
-Byrdo's small sanwa stick blueprint http://www.byrdo.org/small_sanwa_blueprint.htm
(check complete guides)

Painting:
(check complete guides)
-http://case-mods.linear1.org/case-mod-101-how-to-paint-your-computer-case-part-1/ THis is actually a guide to paint wood, but most of the tricks are largely applicable to painting wood. I used this one.

Wiring/soldering:
-My how to solder guide http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=118502 very verbose but very descriptive. Will show and explain exactly where you want to solder, or you could just be ignorant and look at the padhacking thread and copy the image...
-the "pad hacking" thread http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=113675&highlight=hacking
-the series A solderless hack (But you should learn how to solder anyways) http://home.comcast.net/~spiffyshoes/DualShockHack/
-some nice (and not so nice) wiring examples: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=89241

Measurements:
-Various stick spec sheets http://www.industrias-lorenzo.com/bswebs.G3?log:pkid=2&log:company=29&log:contract=1&log:serviceid=1&menukeys=PRODUCTOS:PRODUCTOS&xtd:language=en&pkid=2&idcompany=29&idcontract=1&idservice=1&language=en&categoria=133553
-JLF-TP-8YT: 9mm mounting depth (including cover lexan/acrylic)
(someone help me here please?)
-JLF mounting plate measurements courtesty of per. Can be used to make your own mounting plate as well. http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Useful%20Photos/b35f31e5.jpg

Layout templates:
-http://www.arcadecab.com/Store/Single_Base_Details.htm (includes various curved/straight layouts for american style parts... I don't like these very much though)
-http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/390/blastcitylayoutmx2.th.jpg (http://img85.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blastcitylayoutmx2.jpg) Popular Sega Blast City layout. Great for japanese style sticks.
-http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/2811/sanwatemplatecr9.th.png (http://img263.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sanwatemplatecr9.png) Layout for byrdo's small sanwa case. (I think)
-http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/8939/templatearcev1.th.jpg (http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=templatearcev1.jpg) An 8 button curved layout complete with measurements. I REALLY have no idea where I got this one >__<. This layout is probably not drawn to scale.
-http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Joystick%20Templates/th_Happ_Template.jpg (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Joystick%20Templates/Happ_Template.jpg)
-http://customarcadecontrols.com/SFAC_Stick_Template.zip the SFAC layout template, thanks nitewalker again.
-http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/apeman45/img20050408003449.png looks like blast city layout w/ measurements. Good stuff.
-UMK3 layout thanks someone (sorry, i forgot who!) http://deleterian.com/heavenclipboards/

need american style layout >__>

(please PM me if you these templates are your creations and/or you don't want me to post them here. I got these a while ago and I'm not sure who to ask for permission and credit. I'm assuming right now, that no one would mind, but just in case, sorry in advance)

Where to get joystick and buttons:
-Sanwa/Seimtsu:
-http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=116457 (I personally always buy from ponyboy, best prices)
-http://www.Akihabarashop.com
-http://www.himuragames.com (most people seem to get them here)
-http://www.vgonetwork.com (best prices for small purchases... they take forever to ship)
-http://www.excellentcom.net/parts.htm (best prices I've seen, but it ships from asia so...)
-http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/ (for UK buyers, thanks hejdelond)
-ebay :)
-our trading outlet
-the BYOAC buy/sell/trade forum http://arcadecontrols.com/arcade.htm
-and if you live in japan http://www.gamengai.com/akimap.php

Happs:
-http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=3256103&postcount=5
-ebay :)
-our trading outlet (including ponyboy)
-the BYOAC buy/sell/trade forum http://arcadecontrols.com/arcade.htm
-http://www.happcontrols.com (duh)
-http://www.x-arcade.com (*barfs*) (that means don't get them)

Where to get other things

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=3256103&postcount=5 Thanks nitewalker, you rule.

Quick Disconects: Akihabarashop.com has them overpriced. The sizes you need for sanwas/happs are slightly irregular. The best place to get them is in hundred packs off ebay. Size for Sanwas/Seimitsu: 22-18 Wire .110 Tab | For Happs: 22-18 Wire .187 Tab (thanks nitewalker). Please note that the sanwa JLFs and Seimitsu LS-XX-01 use 5 pin harnesses instead of tabs that you can put QDs on. So unless you want to solder, you must buy their dopey connector :(.

Wood/tools: Your local hardware store :)

Paint:
-Osh has them for $2/can :), I use them and I have no complaints about quality. They go on nicely and they apply very evenly. Of course, I don't really have anything else to compare it to.
-most other hardware stores will have spray paint for <$5. Nice a cheap for a one time job, don't inhale the fumes.

Misc
-nice comparison chart for all the sticks http://img95.imageshack.us/my.php?image=beztytuuco8.gif
-Paik4life's excellent japanese part faq http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=118289
-list of sticks that are suitable for modding: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=119686

[Hejdlond]

If you live in Europe and want Sanwa parts FAST I can recommend Gremlin Solutions (http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/) in the UK. They have Sanwa parts, arcade cabinets and more arcade related stuff.

Ordered Sanwa parts from there for a friend who needed parts fast for Versus (http://www.vs2k.se/) (a swedish fighting game tournament) which will be held in 2 weeks from now. But otherwise, if you can wait a few weeks for your parts, I'd recommed Akihabarashop.

[Paik4Life]

First off, this is a very good attempt at compiling useful information. Good job, chippermonkey. Here are some suggestions/tips:

1) Although it's very flattering to have my guide posted please be aware of the warnings I gave in that thread and the warnings I repeat here. The method of building in that thread is one that is used by TheRealNeoGeo and myself (although specifically I tell how I do it, it was based on information from TRNG). It is not a traditional way of building and it is a LOT harder. It takes a LOT longer. It requires more tools. It costs a LOT more in terms of materials and investment in tools. It takes a larger skill set. All-in-all it's not a beginners' friend. If you're really gung ho about the method and want to do it, by all means go ahead but again it's at your own peril. : )

2) 9mm is the total depth from the very top panel that you want to mount a JLF-TP-8YT. This includes the plexi/lexan layer if you're using them. For LS-32 and 32-01 if you're using 2-3mm lexan, just mount it flush to the surface of the wood. Mounting depths different for every stick and plate for the most part though. The best person to get info on this would be TheRealNeoGeo.

3) For microswitches on Sanwa and Seimtisu sticks, .187 quick disconnects are the standard. As mentioned above, for the buttons .110 are standard. JLF and all LS-XX-01 models have 5-pin harnesses so you don't need quick disconnects. The reason why AkihabaraShop quick disconnects are so expensive is because they are barrel type which grip not only to the stripped wired but also to the insulated wired for a hold that you won't be able to pull off.

4) For those who are scared of soldering, they can hunt down some rare solderless A series PS pads and follow the guide here:
http://home.comcast.net/~spiffyshoes/DualShockHack/

Hope these help. I'll add more when I think of anything.

~Paik

[shrimpnoodles]

build your own only? here's mod:
tekken hori
http://himuragames.suddenlaunch3.com/index.cgi?board=techinfo&action=display&num=1109887687
agetec
http://tychom.org/stick/index.html

barrier strips: radio shack
inside look on what wiring looks like:
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89241

[NiteWalker]

This is a good thread. I'll list my sources too. Sorry, chippermonkey, if some of these overlap yours. If you want, you can add these to your first post and I'll edit/delete this one.

*cue Returner's Theme from FFVI/III*
The List
Building Materials
WOOD-For building the box.
For wood I go to Home Depot or Lowe"s. They both carry MDF, Particleboard, Plywood, Other Woods, Tools, Lexan/Acrylic, Hardboard, Paint, Finishes, and pretty much everything you need to build the box. They also have the cable ties and cable tie mounting pads I use.
http://www.bargainbirch.com/commerce/index.php?cPath=21&osCsid=6b8792f198edcb31672527de825e3b81
For you birch plywood freaks. Birch ply is VERY strong and very stable. And very light.
TOOLS-No place is cheaper for power tools.
http://www.amazon.com
ROUTERBITS-Buy a router. You will not regret it. Versatility is the keyword.
http://www.routerbits.com/
Best source for high quality routerbits. I get ALL my routerbits from this place. Out of 17, they placed first in a head to head bit test in Fine Woodworking Mag.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/
Another great place for bits. They ship free too. Their bits are up there in quality. I never heard anything bad about their bits.

That covers building the box.
Wiring Sources
WIRE-Get 22AWG stranded unless you're doing the Solderless A-Series Hack. In that case get 22AWG Solid for a 6 button stick or 24AWG or smaller for a full 8 button stick.
http://www.radioshack.com/home/index.jsp
They have a lot of other needed things for stickmaking as well, like a 25-40 watt soldering iron and necessary soldering supplies.
BARRIER STRIPS-Help keep things neat and make it easier to change out PCB's later on if you wish. I avoid Radio Shack in this case. They're overpriced.
http://cgi.ebay.com/12-Screw-Euro-Strip-12-Screw_W0QQitemZ6016896601QQihZ009QQcategoryZ11644Q QtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
These are of very good quality. Up to 20 (if you feel like stocking up....) are shipped for only $3.95. A good deal.
QUICK DISCONNECTS-A lot of people still ask about this so...
Happ buttons and joysticks and Seimitsu joysticks QD size: .187
Sanwa buttons QD size: .110
The sources:
.187
http://cgi.ebay.com/100-Red-Quick-Disconnect-Terminal-22-18-Wire-187-Tab_W0QQitemZ280017496823QQihZ018QQcategoryZ7285QQ cmdZViewItem
.110
http://cgi.ebay.com/100-Red-Quick-Disconnect-Terminal-22-18-Wire-110-Tab_W0QQitemZ280017496013QQihZ018QQcategoryZ7285QQ cmdZViewItem

EDIT: They're back in business now.

That does it for building the box. With all those links you have all you need to build a fantastic joystick box and wiring it up.
ARCADE PARTS
The meat of a custom stick...

HAPP SOURCES-AKA American buttons and sticks.
http://www.happcontrols.com/
http://stores.ebay.com/Bottlenoses-Happ-Super-Store_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZtornadoterrysdotQQssPag eNameZSTRKQ3aMEFSQ3aMESOI
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=47066.0
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=36770.0
JAPANESE SOURCES-Sanwa, Seimitsu, etc.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=36770.0
http://www.akihabarashop.com/

All of these places I can vouch for as I've bought from all of them.
Hope all this helps. I'll post more if I find more sources I use.
Peace.
NW

[elvis_a_presley]

Australian parts suppliers:

GameDude Arcades: Sanwa parts, Happ parts, whole NEW Candy cabinets, JAMMA wiring harnesses, keywiz keyboard encoders, etc, etc
http://www.gamedude.com.au/arcade/

OzStick: Sanwa JLW, JAMMA wiring harnesses, Happ buttons, official AU reseller for Ultimarc I-Pac and J-Pac:
http://www.ozstick.com.au/

Retromania: cheaper brand sticks and buttons:
http://www.retromania.com.au/

Highway: arcade spare parts, cabinets, sticks and buttons:
http://www.highway.net.au/

And some good general building info here:
Jaremy & Deanna's Arcade Stick Construction:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jdpyle1/index.htm

[chippermonky]

Thanks nitewalker, you seem to have eveything. By the way, I DO regret getting a router because I subsequently chopped off a small part of my ring finger after I got it :(.

[NiteWalker]

Thanks nitewalker, you seem to have eveything. By the way, I DO regret getting a router because I subsequently chopped off a small part of my ring finger after I got it :(.

Man I completely forgot to mention safety :sweat:

A router is a VERY versatile VERY DANGEROUS power tool. It will bite if provoked. Watch your fingers. It only takes one mistake to hurt yourself severely. RESPECT the router. Do not fear it.

How bad was the injury and how did it happen?
Be careful man. The last thing you need is to lose a finger...

[chippermonky]

It looked horrible when I got it. A flap of skin... meat was flapping on my finger and there was blood everywhere. Nothing actually came off though. Eventually the flap of meat tuned black and fell off. It's healed completely now and there is only a small scar on my fingernail which is hadly noticeable and will probably go away. Of course, my fingers missing a bit of mass now.

So that's what happens when you don't know what your doing with a route :D.

[NiteWalker]

Glad it was only minor. The best accident, though, is the one that doesn't happen.

[elvis_a_presley]

Remember folks, wood is harder than flesh, and these tools can cut through wood like butter.

ALWAYS put safety first, and never make any assumptions. I've been working with wood and metal for 21 years and have never had an accident. Not because I'm "better" than anyone else (trust me - I'm still a home handyman at best), but because I'm damned paranoid when it comes to safety.

Always follow the instructions, and never put your fleshy bits where the fast spinning metal parts are. :)

[chippermonky]

Actually this accident was a pretty good one. Because I was inevitably going to have an accident before I learned my lesson, and I think this is... lesson is better than losing a finger ;). Positive thinking kills.

[chippermonky]

bump, sticky please.

[chippermonky]

hey, does anyone know the dimensions of the standard sanwa mounting plate? Doesn't need to be exact, just within 1 mm.

[NiteWalker]

Hey, read the first post again. Here's a happ template:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Joystick%20Templates/th_Happ_Template.jpg (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Joystick%20Templates/Happ_Template.jpg)
Print without any scaling.

I'm working on a sanwa drilling template just like the happ one above. Would that be ok or did you want the numerical dimensions too?

EDIT
Mods, please sticky.

[chippermonky]

Hey, read the first post again. Here's a happ template:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Joystick%20Templates/th_Happ_Template.jpg (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Joystick%20Templates/Happ_Template.jpg)
Print without any scaling.

I'm working on a sanwa drilling template just like the happ one above. Would that be ok or did you want the numerical dimensions too?

EDIT
Mods, please sticky.

hey thanks, I like the way you make your templates :). I just want the numerical dimension of the mounting plate for my own personal needs hehe. I didn't feel like making a new thread, so I figured I'd just use this one. A sanwa template like that would be awesome though by the way.

[NiteWalker]

k I'll measure one of my mounting plates and post the dimensions for you later tonite. I'll work on the sanwa template too.

[Paik4Life]

This is from Per. He made it himself and showed me this the other week. Give him your thanks.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Useful%20Photos/b35f31e5.jpg

~Paik

[NiteWalker]

Nice!
I think I'll just skip doing mine now...

[N_paul]

I just have to say this is really helpful. I've seen a variety of ways to wire the insides. I don't erally understand all of them though.

There's the daisy chains using common ground, but then I see a stick with all the grounds (I think) going to a row of some sort of anchor that's been screwed in.

http://www.arcadecab.com/images/Visitor_Pics/Ben-P1010359-lg.jpg

I tihnk the anchors are called barrier strips? Do they have an advantage over common grounds?

http://arkadesticks.com/rick1inne.jpg

I personally use the daisy chain method because I don't know any better.

[chippermonky]

No matter how you wire it, it's all the same so long as all the wires end up in the right places. People like to use barrier strips because they make things look tidier. functionally speaking, they make changing yoru button configuration and the pcb easier, but how often are you going to do that.

[chippermonky]

bump, sticky if that'll ever happen please..

[NiteWalker]

This is a template for the street fighter arcade stick. A lot of people ask for it for replacing the art so here it is:
http://customarcadecontrols.com/SFAC_Stick_Template.zip
It has 3 files in it; a 300 dpi psd file, a 72 dpi psd file and a 72 dpi jpeg. All the measurements are 98% accurate. If I'm wrong let me know and I'll correct them.

:qcf::qcf: + :s:ticky Please!!!:annoy: :annoy: :annoy:

[futhamucka]

Eventually the flap of meat tuned black and fell off.

Hwarf!

[Tetsu]

awesome thread. i dug up all my old PS pads and found out i have several A models. thank you spiffyshoes for that guide and thank you chippermonkey for organizing all this info in one thread.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Nice thread chippermonky, I'll add this as a link to more resources on my other Custom Arcade Stick Threads... this won't stickied but will get added to the Essential Arcade Sticks Threads I assume, but I think Javi should have left the other thread stickied as many people don't really look there. Oh well...

[PAYBACK]

Wiring Sources

WIRE-Get 22AWG stranded unless you're doing the Solderless A-Series Hack. In that case get 22AWG Solid for a 6 button stick or 24AWG or smaller for a full 8 button stick.


noob question:

what kind of wire should i be looking at if i plan on using 0.187 disconnects?

22awg solid or 24awg?

[Green]

22 is kind of thick. 24 or 26 will work fine, but stranded is slightly easier on the connections. However, solid is easier to solder in, IMO.

[NiteWalker]

noob question:

what kind of wire should i be looking at if i plan on using 0.187 disconnects?

22awg solid or 24awg?

If you're doing the a series hack, and only making a 6 button stick go with 22awg solid. It makes for very tight connections. If you're soldering, 22awg stranded.

22 is kind of thick. 24 or 26 will work fine, but stranded is slightly easier on the connections. However, solid is easier to solder in, IMO.
I use 22awg stranded for all sticks that I solder. It is not too thick. It's perfect IMHO because it's flexible (being stranded) and it's strong. 24 or 26 would be easier to break, especially if using solid.

[Paik4Life]

As Nitewalker said, 22 gauge is the overall best in my opinion. Stranded for soldering, solid for a series hack.

~Paik

[chippermonky]

My theory is to use whatever fits. Wire is bloody expensive so I always tear mine out of old power supplies, cords, and whatever else I can find out of old garage sales he he he...

[NiteWalker]

I pay $5 for a 100 ft roll at radio shack. Enough for several sticks.
Nothing wrong with being frugal though ;)

[Paik4Life]

Nitewalker is a cheap skate!

~Paik

[NiteWalker]

Nitewalker is a cheap skate!

~Paik
Bah! Cheap is just slang for resourceful! :arazz:

Check this out (I may have mentioned this to you before).
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Misc%20Pics/th_100_0773.jpg (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Misc%20Pics/100_0773.jpg)
Radio Shack clearanced out the 300ft rolls of 22awg stranded intercom wire. Each roll has 300 feet of two wires (white and grey) twisted together like in the top left roll. I untwisted them (not hard), and rerolled them back onto the spindels. The insulation is a tiny bit thicker but otherwise it's the same stuff they sell as hookup wire. Works great. Best part? The price. $10 a roll. 600 feet of 22awg stranded wire for $10. I cleaned out like 3 radio shacks...

[PAYBACK]

Bah! Cheap is just slang for resourceful! :arazz:

Check this out (I may have mentioned this to you before).
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Misc%20Pics/th_100_0773.jpg (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Misc%20Pics/100_0773.jpg)
Radio Shack clearanced out the 300ft rolls of 22awg stranded intercom wire. Each roll has 300 feet of two wires (white and grey) twisted together like in the top left roll. I untwisted them (not hard), and rerolled them back onto the spindels. The insulation is a tiny bit thicker but otherwise it's the same stuff they sell as hookup wire. Works great. Best part? The price. $10 a roll. 600 feet of 22awg stranded wire for $10. I cleaned out like 3 radio shacks...

thanks so much man
you`re a wealth of information

[Paik4Life]

Hey Chipper, just to let you know, you put the wrong link for my Sanwa/Seimitsu FAQ at the bottom of your first post : )

~Paik

[PAYBACK]

http://arkadesticks.com/hackedpads/Dreamcastofficialpad.jpg

in referrence to the DC pas hack listed above,,,do the soldering points need to be scratched with an exacto prior to soldering?

Also, do i need to have an analog/digital button like the ones found on MAS joysticks?

Lastly, what is the ground soldering point?

These questions have mostly been answered before but i have absolutely no idea what im supposed to do

[chippermonky]

http://arkadesticks.com/hackedpads/Dreamcastofficialpad.jpg

in referrence to the DC pas hack listed above,,,do the soldering points need to be scratched with an exacto prior to soldering?

Also, do i need to have an analog/digital button like the ones found on MAS joysticks?

Lastly, what is the ground soldering point?

These questions have mostly been answered before but i have absolutely no idea what im supposed to do

you want to scratch it off first. Please refer to my how to solder guide that's linked heheh.. Actually it won't give you that much info because I never finished the how to solder portion of the guide.

[PAYBACK]

you want to scratch it off first. Please refer to my how to solder guide that's linked heheh.. Actually it won't give you that much info because I never finished the how to solder portion of the guide.



awesome tutorial but i couldnt't find anything on analog solder points and if i need to have a dedicated analog/digital buttons like the ones found on mas joysticks (are these important and why are analog/digital buttons only found on MAS JOYSTICKS?) and what should they be connected to and if possible is there a wiring tutorial for dual shock pads that you can link me to?

the below-listed tutorial is quite helpful but it doesn't say what to do with the analog soldering point


any help will be much appreciated :-)n

http://home.comcast.net/~spiffyshoes/DualShockHack/

[EastX]

Can someone please recommend an 8-button curved layout other than the one pictured in the first post?

[MrHadoken]

Anyone know somewhere to buy spare arcade parts (Sanwa/Seimitsu) in taiwan? i have some friends there, so i can get the parts cheaper

[NiteWalker]

Bump for chipper. There's a lot of resources in here but people still post new threads???

Just needs to be on the first page.

[NiteWalker]

Bump. Because a few people are askin about customs and how to build them.

[americankgb]

I've been buying all my electronics tools from here as of recent because radioshack has been cutting back. Plus their selection of soldering tips is utterly horrible.

www.jameco.com

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Been a long while since I've done anything with building sticks, but recently have gotten back to working on my 2p setup... since I started back in early July, lol.

[NiteWalker]

Bump.

[Gasp]

Im pretty sure radio shack discontinued their 2row db15's

i went to 3 different ones and their website and nothing!

[Bill Wood]

I'm getting started on my very first stick mod tonight... wish me luck!

Actually, what I'm doing is pretty minor. I'm simply going to replace the buttons on my SFAC stick with some Happ competition buttons I ordered off of eBay. I'm looking at arcadestickmonk's site for the instructions and it seems pretty simple, looks like I'm going to have to pick up the wire crimping tool and the disconnects on the way home from work. I hope my local Radio Shack has what I need, if not, I may just swap out the concave buttons on my old MAS stick in hopes that the disconnects are the same size.

[NiteWalker]

Im pretty sure radio shack discontinued their 2row db15's

i went to 3 different ones and their website and nothing!

Radio Shack discontinued a lot of their small electronics parts. I usually go online for everything but soldering tools.

I'm getting started on my very first stick mod tonight... wish me luck!

Actually, what I'm doing is pretty minor. I'm simply going to replace the buttons on my SFAC stick with some Happ competition buttons I ordered off of eBay. I'm looking at arcadestickmonk's site for the instructions and it seems pretty simple, looks like I'm going to have to pick up the wire crimping tool and the disconnects on the way home from work. I hope my local Radio Shack has what I need, if not, I may just swap out the concave buttons on my old MAS stick in hopes that the disconnects are the same size.

Good luck on your mod. It's likely Radio Shack won't have the qd's. The QD's on the concave buttons in a mas are not the same as the SFAC ones. You need .187 QD's and the ones used on the sfac buttons are .110. I have some for sale if you need them. PM me if you want em.

[Bill Wood]

Hey, thanks Nitewalker! I'm going to check RS now (it's only 5 mins. down the street), and a co-worker of mine says he has a ton of stuff at home if I need it. However, if I still can't find what I need, I'm going to be sure to PM you.

Forgive the n00b question, but there are three connections on the Happ switch and only two on the SFAC switch. According to ASM's diagram, it appears as though the topmost connect (the one that ends up closest to the button) isn't actually connected to anything. Is this correct?

Oh, and one last thing; does anyone have any links to any Street Fighter II arcade cabinet artwork? I'm thinking of customizing the artwork on the stick and I want it to look like an old-school SF2 joystick diagram. If anyone can help me out here I'd be most grateful!

EDIT: Yay, RS had the .187 disconnects, I'm off to the races! ^_^

[koi]

Basically on a cherry microswitch, the prong closest to the red switch is "normally closed", as in if you connected the pcb to that, the button would register as being pressed w/o any action on your part. The 2nd prong is "normally open", so you have to manually press the button which completes the circuit to the ground.

So to sum it up, the top prong doesn't do anything useful.

[Bill Wood]

Well, I switched the buttons out last night, and as Borat would say, "Great Success!" Thanks again guys for the tips. I would seriously recommend this as a starting point for anyone interested in modding, as it is a very cheap and easy mod for beginners, and this is coming from a complete electronics idiot. Hell, I wasted two QDs before I figured out I wasn't supposed to crimp the sleeve!:rofl:

Anyway, looks like the stick is the next thing to come out of my SFAC box. I have an ancient SNES Super Fire Stick that's been gathering dust in my garage for a decade now, I opened it up this morning and it's actually a nice quality stick with a square actuator and Cherry microswitches. Of course, the guts are soldered together so I'm going to have to desolder everything, not to mention that SFAC stick looks like it's gonna be a bitch to remove. But since the ambigous diagonals on the SFAC stick are driving me nuts (I can't tell you how many times I've been nailed by a fireball because I was holding down when I thought I was holding down-back), I might as well finish the job and make the whole project somewhat respectable.

And again, if anyone has links to artwork templates for this stick, I'd appreciate it!

[Bill Wood]

Sorry for the double post, but I really need some help here:

I want to replace the stick in my SFAC box, but there's just no way the stock one is coming out. I followed ASM's SFAC mod guide to a "T," but for the life of me I cannot get that damned nut to turn independently of the bolt. Is there any possible way to make the stock stick removal process easier? I swear I must have spent twenty minutes on one bolt with no results.

As usual, any help is greatly appreciated. And for the record, I started on the corner bolt because ASM's guide says it's the hardest to remove.

[chippermonky]

just make a new thread about it bill ^^.

[chippermonky]

bump.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

bump

[Super Warrior]

Sorry for the double post, but I really need some help here:

I want to replace the stick in my SFAC box, but there's just no way the stock one is coming out. I followed ASM's SFAC mod guide to a "T," but for the life of me I cannot get that damned nut to turn independently of the bolt. Is there any possible way to make the stock stick removal process easier? I swear I must have spent twenty minutes on one bolt with no results.

As usual, any help is greatly appreciated. And for the record, I started on the corner bolt because ASM's guide says it's the hardest to remove.

Sorry to hear that. When i recently removed the stock stick in mine, 3 out of 4 nuts came out EASILY. The 4th however wouldn't undo completely unless i held the bolt steady, then it worked.

HARDEST part about removing the stick for me, was figuring out how to get that damned E-clip off that holds the joystick shaft in place!

Overall, removing the stock stick was EASY! :smile:

BTW My Arcade stick was bought New on E-bay. A refurbed/used stick may be a bit harder...

You should try the approach of removing the plastic molding, plexi, and art work, in order to get to the stick easier.

[chippermonky]

bump for great justice (actually, I keep losing this thread myself and I need it for myself)

[Doc Holliday]

Great stuff except the stuff that I need (padhacking links) are all dead. Ooooooo....

[chippermonky]

you know, I have no idea why h82. I'd find you the links myself, but I don't know where they are either. I always use this thread to find them >___>.

edit: I think SRK changed all the links around or something. who knows.

[Doc Holliday]

Well I don't know if your links are to the padhacking thread itself or if they're links to the links in that thread but both don't work. It's been that way for some time which sucks.

[Paik4Life]

I'll help out by putting some of the pad hacks that I have on my computer on my photobucket album:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Useful%20Photos/th_360Hack.jpg (http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Useful%20Photos/360Hack.jpg)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Useful%20Photos/th_PIN_MAP.jpg (http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Useful%20Photos/PIN_MAP.jpg)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Useful%20Photos/th_Xbox360wired.jpg (http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Useful%20Photos/Xbox360wired.jpg)

I thought I had some others like the DS1 H series but I guess not. If you have a pic of the PCB you want to hack, it would take no time for any builder to diagram it for you. You can easily figure out which points are which since you can find the common ground for each of the buttons/directions leaving the other point as the signal/live.

Pad hacking is pretty universal. The only times you might find problems are when they have ribbon connectors like DS2 or separate grounds like the 360 (which really isn't a problem when using Jap parts since there is no designated ground and signal tabs on the buttons and sticks unless the stick uses a wire harness like JLF or the -01 Seimitsu sticks).

~Paik

[Dark Man X]

I got a question...is there a big difference between the sanwa OSBF-30 and the Sanwa OBSF-30RG??? I know it has a tougher microswitch, but is it worth getting the 30rg????

[chippermonky]

I got a question...is there a big difference between the sanwa OSBF-30 and the Sanwa OBSF-30RG??? I know it has a tougher microswitch, but is it worth getting the 30rg????

RGs are suppose to last 5 times as long. Non RGs will probably last you like 2 years :P. Probably more. Don't get them. Not like you can anymore, they are OOP

[Okazaki III]

Can anybody show me a pic of the connection between the wires and sanwa buttons, in both the solderless and the normal soldered set up? Thanks.

[Green]

Can anybody show me a pic of the connection between the wires and sanwa buttons, in both the solderless and the normal soldered set up? Thanks.
Wires with quick disconnects/connectors:

http://www.rootminus1.com/howard/howard's%20joystick/DCP_0778.jpg

[chippermonky]

bump

[chippermonky]

Ah, quick request, does anyone happen to have a layout sorta like this one http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?image=template5clsh2.jpg except more refined. That's the one I want/need.

[Toodles]

Something like this? If you ignore the rightmost two 30mm's and the 24mm buttons, the layout matches my namco and candy cab perfect
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/4089/measuredsticklayoutap0.jpg

[Cynistar]

hey, i just got a happ competition stick, but i want it to feel like it does when u have a 4-way restrictor plate. is there anything i can do, like change the actuator or do something to the spring? it just feels too loose and has no corners.

[chippermonky]

hey, i just got a happ competition stick, but i want it to feel like it does when u have a 4-way restrictor plate. is there anything i can do, like change the actuator or do something to the spring? it just feels too loose and has no corners.

thats the way american sticks are suppose to play so get use to it (trust me, it doesn't take too long). They dont sell any sort of restrictor plates, if you want one, you'd have to design one yourself and make it yourself.

[Paik4Life]

Ah, quick request, does anyone happen to have a layout sorta like this one http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?image=template5clsh2.jpg except more refined. That's the one I want/need.

I'm quite sure that the person used the Agetec layout. They probably scanned the top panel. If you have an Agetec, just use that. If you don't, let me know and I'll scan the panel from one of mine.

Something like this? If you ignore the rightmost two 30mm's and the 24mm buttons, the layout matches my namco and candy cab perfect
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/4089/measuredsticklayoutap0.jpg

That's a good layout. I remember Per posting it a while back, but no one know who originally made it. It looks accurate to the Astro City Panels that I have although I didn't go and actually check. That layout definitely doesn't match the Namco grey/yellow layout though. That Namco has a weird layout. You can tell it's not the same because the four right buttons on the Namco aren't square as they should be. You can most easily see the oddity when you look at the bottom right button on the Namco. It's not parallel to anything. Still a great stock stick though.

~Paik

[SuicidalGrandpa]

I heard about a video showing how to do quick disconnects. Anyone have it?

Also, are they possible with happ buttons? I'll be getting my buttons in a few days and I want to know how it's best to wire 'em.

[Okazaki III]

Hey thanks Green, makes it a lot clearer. It doesn't matter if it is solderless or not, for the connection to the buttons it stays the same.

[chippermonky]

I heard about a video showing how to do quick disconnects. Anyone have it?

Also, are they possible with happ buttons? I'll be getting my buttons in a few days and I want to know how it's best to wire 'em.

They are possible but you need a rather irregular size for happs, check the first post on what size it is and where to get them. You don't need a video on how to do it, they are very straightforward--stick wire in, and crimp. You'll need a crimp tool though. You'll also inevitable mess up your first 20 or so crimps :P. Just one word of advice. Since the gauge of wire you'll likely be using is like 1/5th the size of what the crimps can take, fold the wire onto the insulation and stick both insulation and wire inside. This gives more stuff for the crimp to crimp onto and also puts the pressure on the insulation which is much stronger than the wire on thinner gauge wires.

[Okazaki III]

Hey I needed the vid, but then again I'm a stick scrub extraordinaire :D

DH020 had to resort to drastic measures for me to understand the point lol

[Gasp]

err whats good wood to use that isn't MDF wood
ive been sanding this shit for 2 hours and it still looks like concrete

[Green]

What's wrong with MDF? It's dimensionally stable, ubiquitous, strong enough, comes case-hardened on the large areas, is easy to work with, etc.

Pine works too, though it's not as "true" as MDF.

[Gasp]

What's wrong with MDF? It's dimensionally stable, ubiquitous, strong enough, comes case-hardened on the large areas, is easy to work with, etc.

Pine works too, though it's not as "true" as MDF.


ive been sanding this shit for 2 hours and it still looks like concrete


also what sandpaper should i pick up assuming i have none

[Green]

ive been sanding this shit for 2 hours and it still looks like concrete
How and with what are you sanding? Hope you aren't using a rasp or something.

[Gasp]

norton 60 grit heavy duty something something

[Green]

60 grit is way too low. Try 180.

[Paik4Life]

Well one of the benefits of wood over MDF is that it doesn't contain carcinogens...

But I don't know why you would have a hard time sanding MDF. It is much easier to sand. The grit you want to use depends on what kind of sanding you want to do and how much you're trying to remove. For heavy shaping 60 grit is great. For a final sanding anything above 400 will actually be fine for most cases. Obviously for any kind of sanding in between those extremes you'll want to use a grit in between as well. I find that 120 grit is a pretty good multi-purpose grit.

The only reason you would want to go higher than 400 would be if you're using real wood and decide you want to stain the wood. For an even stain you want to make sure your surface is not only very smooth but evenly sanded all around with the same grit.

As for wood choices, I would never ever use pine. Although it's really cheap, it's not a "nice" wood and one that warps pretty heavily. It also doesn't have a nice grain nor does it finish well. I would go and spend a bit more and go with poplar or even cherry. Those are my personal suggestions for you.

~Paik

[Gasp]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v447/sambao/DSC00337.jpg
wood looks like that

and i want it to look smoooooth

ill go pick some up today thankfully i got sandable primer

[chippermonky]

Hey paik, you work a lot with mdf. What do you use to protect yourself from the carcinogens. I just use a cheap dust mask but I'm always afraid that's not enough.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v447/sambao/DSC00337.jpg
wood looks like that

and i want it to look smoooooth

ill go pick some up today thankfully i got sandable primer

urr, all primer is sandable. As paik said, 120 grit is a nice all around though I tend to use 220 (probably because I have a huge pack of 220).

But yeah, your wood looking like that is because your using sandpaper that is much too coarse. You can only get your surface about as smooth as the sandpaper. Feel the 60 grit sandpaper, does that feel smooth to you? After priming, you'll want to sand it down again. Assuming what you have is already pretty smooth (say, well sanded with at least 150 grit), I'd suggest you use something around 300 grit. After sanding with 300 grit, your surface should feel pretty much entirely 'smooth' such that if you asked a friend if the surface is smooth or rough, they'd always say smooth.

[Paik4Life]

Chipper, I try my best to not work with MDF, but since it's cheaper a lot of people who ordered customs from me in the past requested it. I do almost all my work in either 1) a workshop with a heavy duty ventilation system or 2) outside. In both cases I still wear a mask. If you're working with it a lot or indoor, you should really get a very nice mask. Not the cheap masks you can get for like $1. I mean the ones where you can replace the filters with cartridges once they go bad. You can find them at HD or Lowes. Check the ratings on the packaging.

~Paik

[shoo]

my dad owns a carpet and flooring store, theres alootttt of hardwood and laminte floor samples laying around. its expensive. but there ALOT in the back just laying around

Its very very light and strong

I could ship a few out to stick builders see how they like it.

PM me questions

[Gasp]

yo what part of LA

and what kind of wood

[shoo]

LBC area

its laminate flooring, not hardwood.
its super light and strong

[chippermonky]

Chipper, I try my best to not work with MDF, but since it's cheaper a lot of people who ordered customs from me in the past requested it. I do almost all my work in either 1) a workshop with a heavy duty ventilation system or 2) outside. In both cases I still wear a mask. If you're working with it a lot or indoor, you should really get a very nice mask. Not the cheap masks you can get for like $1. I mean the ones where you can replace the filters with cartridges once they go bad. You can find them at HD or Lowes. Check the ratings on the packaging.

~Paik

hey thanks for the tip. I'm always stingy about my filtered mask but I guess it's for my future health.

[sambao]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v447/sambao/DSC00337.jpg
wood looks like that

and i want it to look smoooooth

ill go pick some up today thankfully i got sandable primerah my stick lol!!!

I sanded it down with 100 grit, but I was thinking of going lower to level it out more!!

I still might (so I can have the side panels exactly even) but after reading these recent posts I think I should pick up some higher grit as well

I'm always learning stuff!

[chippermonky]

Chipper, I try my best to not work with MDF, but since it's cheaper a lot of people who ordered customs from me in the past requested it. I do almost all my work in either 1) a workshop with a heavy duty ventilation system or 2) outside. In both cases I still wear a mask. If you're working with it a lot or indoor, you should really get a very nice mask. Not the cheap masks you can get for like $1. I mean the ones where you can replace the filters with cartridges once they go bad. You can find them at HD or Lowes. Check the ratings on the packaging.

~Paik

ah my stick lol!!!

I sanded it down with 100 grit, but I was thinking of going lower to level it out more!!

I still might (so I can have the side panels exactly even) but after reading these recent posts I think I should pick up some higher grit as well

I'm always learning stuff!

yeah, experimenting helps you learn so there's nothing to regret. If you want those smooth mirror finishes that some people have, you pretty much HAVE to use at least 300 grit sanding both before and after you paint.

[Toodles]

Wouldn't it also help to use wood filler on the edges? (not a woodworker, so take with grain of salt)

[sambao]

Wouldn't it also help to use wood filler on the edges? (not a woodworker, so take with grain of salt)that's what I was thinking.

it might not be so smooth, but it wont be all 'porous'...

[Paik4Life]

Looking at your pics closer, that's not MDF. It looks like particle board, which is horrible for building. That's probably your problem.

~Paik

[sambao]

it is particle board~!!! I got a hella big ass plank of it for only $6. I guess I should jus throw the rest of it out since it's not really a big financial loss at all.

I couldnt find mdf at the home depot :( next time I will look harder and maybe ask someone, coz I was able to find it at lowes. But the portion is HUGE and costs $25.

anyway, I donno if I shoulda made a new thread for this, but if sum1 wants to they can go ahead,

but I found an ebay listing with used PS1 no-analog controllers for only ~$6. Pretty great deal!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160094955875

the description only says "These Controllers Are Tested Well" which is rather ambiguous, but I will take my chances!!

I bought 2, so the seller only has 7 left.

2 controllers costed me only $6.98, which had a hefty combined shipping discount automated by paypal. I have a feeling the seller is going to contact me asking for more money, but it's all good!!

[Green]

If you're sanding to flatten something, get a stiff sanding block. Sanding by hand will never get you to flat.

[chippermonky]

it is particle board~!!! I got a hella big ass plank of it for only $6. I guess I should jus throw the rest of it out since it's not really a big financial loss at all.

I couldnt find mdf at the home depot :( next time I will look harder and maybe ask someone, coz I was able to find it at lowes. But the portion is HUGE and costs $25.

anyway, I donno if I shoulda made a new thread for this, but if sum1 wants to they can go ahead,

but I found an ebay listing with used PS1 no-analog controllers for only ~$6. Pretty great deal!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160094955875

the description only says "These Controllers Are Tested Well" which is rather ambiguous, but I will take my chances!!

I bought 2, so the seller only has 7 left.

2 controllers costed me only $6.98, which had a hefty combined shipping discount automated by paypal. I have a feeling the seller is going to contact me asking for more money, but it's all good!!

that's an okay deal. I hate the cords on the PSX pads though. If you have time, it's better to browse around at stores with used PSX stuff or at garage sales or mooch of your friends old PSX stuff, you'll save some cash that way. But as far as convenience goes, yeah, that's not bad.

[sambao]

u hate official psx cords?? Is it becoz of that cylindrical megaman arm guard thingy placed cloese to the connector?? so do u mean that u use 3rd parties? I woulda thought it's better to go with sony than something else. Altough when I notice, my old stick was wired with a 3rd party, and it would still be working had I not taken it apart.

but I thought it was a good deal. I went to a mom n pops store and got 2 controllers for $6 a piece, and they only had 2 of them otherwise I'da bought more. The ebay I listed is somewhat cheaper than $6 a piece if buying more than 1, and since the norm ebay price seems to be ~$13 a piece I thought the price was great.

edit: by the way. what is primer??? is it something awesome that I should consider??

[Green]

Primer is a paint-like substance something you put on a surface before you paint on it. Couple of reasons why you should use it:

1. Paint is more durable and looks better on primer than on the bare base surface
2. Primer can fill in imperfections (prime, sand, prime, sand until the surface is perfect)
3. Primer blocks more of the color of the base surface
4. Primer allows for a uniform surface - i.e. no splotchiness or what have you

It's also much cheaper than paint, in case you were wondering why you couldn't just use more paint.

[Gasp]

some primer isnt sandable chipper
well it is but it fucks up your sandpaper and is all gooey and shit

this one sands off like poooooooowda

[markR]

Quick question, when mounting a HAPP Competition stick, is it OK to mount it on 3/4" MDF (+ or - a bit of plexiglass/lexan)? If not, how thick should it be?

[sambao]

you can mount a HAPP stick underneath 3/4'' MDF and lexan with absolutely no problem at all.

the last stick I made hella months ago did just that.

[A.C]

i concur. i was/am a rookie stick builder - and 3/4" MDF + lexan was perfect for my three Happ Competition sticks. i used 3/4" MDF all the way around which provided a nice solid feel for the final product. very sturdy & solid feeling.

[B&B]

Question: For the solderless hack, you have to use solid wire instead of stranded wire, right? Or is it possible to do the hack with stranded wire (I don't think so, because when I tried inserting the second wire, the two would touch each other)

I'm so damn stupid, I should of bought solid wire.........

[markR]

you can mount a HAPP stick underneath 3/4'' MDF and lexan with absolutely no problem at all.

the last stick I made hella months ago did just that.

Cool. Thanks!

How does it feel (height-wise)?

[chippermonky]

Cool. Thanks!

How does it feel (height-wise)?

I hear 1/2 to 3/4 is proper mounting height, but I've seen it mounted under metal. I think most happs have washers for choosing whether you want to mount on wood or metal. In either case, I prefer the deep mounted american sticks. Feels better for me.

[B&B]

Question: For the solderless hack, you have to use solid wire instead of stranded wire, right? Or is it possible to do the hack with stranded wire (I don't think so, because when I tried inserting the second wire, the two would touch each other)

I'm so damn stupid, I should of bought solid wire.........

Bump.

[Gasp]

err ahh you answered your own question...its not
stranded blows

[B&B]

err ahh you answered your own question...its not
stranded blows

lol.....I just wish we could all learn something the easy way.

Thanks button_mash.

BBH

[Zoogstin]

What glue is good for mounting your artwork on your stick. I hear regular elmer's glue is fine, but I want to here somebody second that. Is rubber cement okay or am I going to need something fancy?

[Green]

Glue may be permanent. Be careful.

[chippermonky]

What glue is good for mounting your artwork on your stick. I hear regular elmer's glue is fine, but I want to here somebody second that. Is rubber cement okay or am I going to need something fancy?

eh, how about no glue at all? What do you mean 'mounting'?. I just press it under the top plastic. Exshplain.

[Zoogstin]

I have a T5 stick. Nothing goes over it. But I think I know what I'm going to do. I'm still willing to take any suggestions though. I'm not going to put it on just yet.

[chippermonky]

I don't think elmers glue will glue onto metal. Do a test spot first. I'd go for some more industrial slow drying glue (NOT superglue) to be on the safe side. Just do a test spot and see how it works. Make sure you have a beer bottle nearbye for rolling out airbubbles btw.

[Toodles]

Elmer's wont hold onto the metal. No matter what, make sure you take the plastic/paper T5 artwork off so you have the bare metal.

Either use a good sticker paper, or use a thick photo paper and some spray on adhesive.

[Jaxel]

What drill bits do you guys use to cut the 30mm hole?

Boring Hole Saws? Forstner Bits?

Is there a place I can buy these bits offline? Like at a store? I could not find anything metric at my local Lowes or Home Depot.

[Billygoat]

I use a boring bit, I'm in the UK so everythings metric but I'm sure you can get the same size anywhere if you look hard enough. Best places to look are places that sell lots of power and hand tools, you really shouldn't have to resort to buying online.

[sambao]

I got a Tekken stick last month I gonna mod, I jus havent had the $$$ to buy buttons.

what I wanna kno is,

can you mount seimitsu snap ins to the tekken stick with Lexan on top? or is it too thick to accommodate the buttons?

I really wanna put those clear lookin buttons on it, that's why!

thanks!

[Kid Flash]

Why yes you can. Once its snaped into the plexi or lexan it should be fine.

[Green]

What drill bits do you guys use to cut the 30mm hole?

Boring Hole Saws? Forstner Bits?

Is there a place I can buy these bits offline? Like at a store? I could not find anything metric at my local Lowes or Home Depot.
I used a hole saw. If you have access to a drill press, Forstner bits are superior.

[tl613]

This isn't a custom stick but I have one of those RedOctane sticks like this:

http://www.redoctane.com/redoctanearcadestick.html

The black vinyl (I assume that's what it is) is kinda scratched up and coming off in some places, and I want to make the thing look brand new so what would be my best option for replacing all of it?

I know a lot of people go to Kinko's and print stuff on sticky vinyl, would this be the best solution if I don't want to paint?

Also is there anything I should be careful of or a specific good way to take this stuff off without damaging the MDF (I assume that's what it is)?

[sambao]

thanks a lot mista Orochi7!!

now I gotta wait for akihabarashop to open up again!

[TingBoy]

Even if the added lexan top makes it too thick, you can always opt for the Seimitsu screw-ins

[Sixshot]

Has anyone ever seen (or made) a RAP modded with a compartment allowing you to tuck the external cords inside the stick, like the way you can on a pelican ?

[Green]

Even if the added lexan top makes it too thick, you can always opt for the Seimitsu screw-ins
They're horrible. I have to tighten the nuts on mine every 15 minutes.

[urth]

They're horrible. I have to tighten the nuts on mine every 15 minutes.

put some extra elbow grease into it :arazz:

mine stay on afte ri tighten them on O_O.

[Chaosdragon13]

What drill bits do you guys use to cut the 30mm hole?

Boring Hole Saws? Forstner Bits?

Is there a place I can buy these bits offline? Like at a store? I could not find anything metric at my local Lowes or Home Depot.

As long as you have a drill press you can easliy get away with using a 1-1/8" hole saw or forsnter bit.

Drill the holes for the buttons with the 1-1/8" bit, then with a sanding drum small enough to fit in the hole, slowly widen the hole until it will fit the 30mm buttons.

I wouldnt even try this if you dont have a drill press because its likely that you wont widen the hole uniformly. And even if you do have a drill press, take it slow and remember to check to see if the hole is wide enough ever so often, otherwise you may end up messing things up.

If you are only making one stick and have the above parts, then this is the way to go, otherwise do what others suggested and find yourself a 30mm or 1-3/16" hole saw/ forstner bit.

[UltraDavid]

So the sticks I've been making, I've decided they've been too light. Does anyone have any recommendations for heavy woods that are still relatively easy to cut?

[Chaosdragon13]

What have you been using in the past, and whats your idea of easy to cut? I have got my stick made out of a hard wood frame, 1" thick, and I find its heavy enough for me.

Edit: looking at the custom stick topic, it looks like you used something like pine to make your latest proto-type. Go with something like oak and you should be fine.

[Green]

So the sticks I've been making, I've decided they've been too light. Does anyone have any recommendations for heavy woods that are still relatively easy to cut?
Uh, put heavy stuff inside.

[Kaytrim]

If you are willing to use a respirator then try 3/4 MDF That is about the heaviest stuff out there. The stuff cuts into a fine dust not chips and can be hard on the lungs if you are not careful. It is also hard on blades but cuts like butter with a nice sharp blade. Use a spade bit not a hole saw for the holes though. You'll end up burning your way through with a hole saw.

TTFN

[phantamsk]

Here is the updated link to Catch22's guide.
http://members.aol.com/naiporta/video_game/joystick_builder/index.htm

[Toodles]

Here is the updated link to Catch22's guide.
http://members.aol.com/naiporta/video_game/joystick_builder/index.htm

WOOT! Loved that site way back when. Top freaking notch when it was around, like 2-3 years ago. Catch did some beautiful work.

I hate to say it though, but it doesn't match to what's being made now. TMO's and other's cases looks better constructed, and I should talk to that boy about the options he has instead of project box setups :)

[slowtactician86]

Hey guys have a problem about a microswitch. During gameplay one of my buttons wouldn't respond. So I checked it out and found that the microswitch would get stuck. So I just switched that microswitch with another that wouldn't be used as often. Is there anyway to fix this?

[Chaosdragon13]

All you have to do is buy new switches. If you have Happ parts you can get them someplace like here:
http://www.happcontrols.com/joysticks/95073301.htm
I thought I saw them on lizard lick at one point but I dont see them now.

If you have sanwas, I am not sure where you can buy just the switches. Either try looking around or maybe someone else knows.

[Green]

If you are willing to use a respirator then try 3/4 MDF That is about the heaviest stuff out there. The stuff cuts into a fine dust not chips and can be hard on the lungs if you are not careful. It is also hard on blades but cuts like butter with a nice sharp blade. Use a spade bit not a hole saw for the holes though. You'll end up burning your way through with a hole saw.

TTFN
There's a technique you can use to prevent burning with a holesaw in deep woods. Basically, what you do is drill a through-hole whose edge touches the inside of the circumference of the larger hole you want to cut with the hole saw. What this does is allow the accumulated chips and dust to fall through and not get caught around the teeth of the hole saw.

[UltraDavid]

Thanks guys. I've worked with mdf before, I was wondering if there was any actual wood that was heavy and easy to work with and also economical. I decided to get some 1/2" birch, but for some reason my local Home Depot and Lowes were both out of it, so I settled for 1/2" mdf again. It's not pretty, but it does the job. And yes, I do have a dust mask.

As for the burning problem with hole saws, what I've done in the past to get around it is first drill a through hole into the center, cut halfway into the top side around that hole, let the drill cool, and then cut through the bottom side. That way there isn't too much extra heat and the area where the saw is cutting doesn't get so deep that the heat and sawdust can't escape.

[Chaosdragon13]

I dont know if you have a drill press or not, but if you do then using a hole saw and not burning a hole is easy. All you have to do is drill a little at a time and always clear out the area before drilling some more. This would take more time to do is you dont have a drill press, but you really should do it any time you are using a hole saw.

[Wekk]

I'm using 1/2" MDF, and it seems like if I mount my sanwa JLF under thw wood (not to mention the 1/8" lexane on top) that that the stick will barely show through. I was wondering if it's conceivable to make a square hole big enough for the bulk of the joystick to fit through, but the 2 metal sides with the holes hold it up on top? I would like to do this, but I don't know how stable/feasible that is.

EDIT: Also I forgot to ask, if I have the ability to make the holes any size I want, what should they be for the 30mm Sanwa buttons? I heard 1 1/8" but I just wanted to confirm that is the best option.

Thanks

[Kaytrim]

I'm using 1/2" MDF, and it seems like if I mount my sanwa JLF under thw wood (not to mention the 1/8" lexane on top) that that the stick will barely show through. I was wondering if it's conceivable to make a square hole big enough for the bulk of the joystick to fit through, but the 2 metal sides with the holes hold it up on top? I would like to do this, but I don't know how stable/feasible that is.

EDIT: Also I forgot to ask, if I have the ability to make the holes any size I want, what should they be for the 30mm Sanwa buttons? I heard 1 1/8" but I just wanted to confirm that is the best option.

Thanks

If you look at the underside of the JLF you will see some additional plastic that you have to accommodate. By top mounting the stick you will want to recess the metal plate to allow the lexan to sit flat. This will set the stick higher than what is in the arcades. If you want the true arcade feel then you need to recess the plate deeper into the wood. The proper stick height is 24-25mm from the surface of the lexan to the bottom of the ball.

The 1 1/8" holes are for the Happ buttons. For the 30mm Sanwa and Seimitsu buttons you need 1 3/16" and 15/16" for the 24mm buttons.

TTFN

[Jeesup]

hey all. what kind of paper should i print my artwork on if i'm just planning on laminating it -> gluing straight on the stick?

[shoo]

look for vinyl dude

its like a sticker


thats what i did for one of my t5 panels

[Jeesup]

mm... okay.

i just dont want the lamination to ever curl/bubble/bump -.-

[shoo]

it wont curl in the corner if thats what you mean, unless you cut it funny




and if youre very careful there wont be any bumps
if any just smooth it out with a credit card or something of the like
plus they eventually go away

[Uthred]

Bit of a "noob" question here. When I'm mounting an ls-32 should I be top or bottom mounting it ? I'm assuming top-mounting and routing it down by 1.6mm for the plate and just cutting through for the "block" of the stick?

[Wekk]

So is anyone here familiar with Goop? kinda like a gorilla-glue type adhesive. I used it to bottom mount my sanwa JLF, anyone confirm/deny if this is stable enough for constant use/occasional accidental pressure downward?

[Chaosdragon13]

So is anyone here familiar with Goop? kinda like a gorilla-glue type adhesive. I used it to bottom mount my sanwa JLF, anyone confirm/deny if this is stable enough for constant use/occasional accidental pressure downward?

I am not firmiliar with that particular glue but I have used gorilla glue and another similar product. What I found is that it doesnt bond to metal as well as plastics. At least when considering small surfaces. Epoxy is much better when dealing with metal.

Although no matter what glue you use, I dont think any of them will hold up very long when used for mounting a joystick. You are better off screwing or bolting the joystick to the top panel.

[KabaL]

there's a mistake on the first post...

it says:

Painting:
(check complete guides)
-http://case-mods.linear1.org/case-mo...r-case-part-1/ THis is actually a guide to paint wood, but most of the tricks are largely applicable to painting wood. I used this one.


=) Great stuff anyway

[Dai_]

Guys, i need some help.

Anyone has te measures of the SF2AC arcade controller? I'm building one and want to do it based on it.

Thanks.

[Green]

there's a mistake on the first post...

it says:

Painting:
(check complete guides)
-http://case-mods.linear1.org/case-mo...r-case-part-1/ THis is actually a guide to paint wood, but most of the tricks are largely applicable to painting wood. I used this one.


=) Great stuff anyway
Did you mean metal?

[KabaL]

Did you mean metal?

that's the problem I'm reporting =P It should be "metal" or "computer case"...


:confused:

[whodatninja]

anybody have byrdo's old blueprints, or any other wood casing designs/measurements?

[ashurax]

So I need some grippy surface to attach to the bottom of my stick so it's stable while playing. Any recommendations on what to attach to the bottom panel and how to go about attaching it? Thanks in advance.

[Kaytrim]

^^^ You can get small rubber feet (bumpers) that either stick on or use screws at you local hardware store. I use the screw in ones.

[Green]

that's the problem I'm reporting =P It should be "metal" or "computer case"...


:confused:
No, you said wood twice. Doesn't make sense.

[whodatninja]

what is an easy to use material for the 'plate' piece that holds the buttons and stick? and what tool is used to cut the recesses and indentations on it, like shown on the underside of one of TMO's pics? http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Diagrams%20and%

edit: for some reason the pic isn't showing, so it's seen in this thread:

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=133687

[ashurax]

anybody have byrdo's old blueprints, or any other wood casing designs/measurements?

here they are for sanwa sticks

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/mike_n_ike_108/SmallSanwaBlueprint.jpg

[whodatninja]

awesome, thanks man!

[Green]

what is an easy to use material for the 'plate' piece that holds the buttons and stick? and what tool is used to cut the recesses and indentations on it, like shown on the underside of one of TMO's pics? http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Diagrams%20and%
Wood

Router

[whodatninja]

specifics? i'm guessing that it's a cheaper wood than used on any exposed surfaces, what kind works well? it almost looks like the material that clipboards are made of (like a hard cardboard-type)

[KabaL]

No, you said wood twice. Doesn't make sense.

No, I didn't said wood twice. The first post says wood twice. It's a simple quote from the first post, so I haven't changed it already. Anyway I don't know why I care; everyone knows what he's talking about :looney:

[Green]

Sorry, I thought you were the one who posted that.

[Timoe]

Button layout question:

What is the preferred 8-button layout for xbox360?
X-Y-LB-LT
A-B-RB-RT
?

What is the preferred 8-button layout for playstation?
L1-Square-Triangle-R1
L2-....X....-Circle-R2

?

[Dai_]

I'll go with the same layout for the Xbox, with the ps idk, i've never do an arcade stick with a ps/ps2 controller.

[Toodles]

Button layout question:

What is the preferred 8-button layout for xbox360?
X-Y-LB-LT
A-B-RB-RT
?

What is the preferred 8-button layout for playstation?
L1-Square-Triangle-R1
L2-....X....-Circle-R2

?
For an eight button layout, they both depend on which should be considered the main six buttons for SF. Some prefer the six closest to the stick, some prefer the farthest. Your layout for the xbox360 is perfect if they prefer the closest, your PSX layout is perfect if they prefer the farthest. If the buttons have no curve to them (MAS sticks) , I believe most people use the farthest buttons. If there is a curve (HRAP2) then it depends on the button layout, with most preferring the closest six (HRAP2). The only times I've seen people on a curved button layout use the farther six are when its a shitty button layout, like the T5 stick and the other cheaper HRAP clones.

For the main six buttons, PSX:
Square-Triangle-R1
....X....-Circle-R2

If there are eight buttons, find the column that will be least used, and put L1 above L2.

For the main six buttons, xbox360:
X-Y-LB
A-B-RB

If there are eight buttons, find the column that will be least used, and put LT above RT.

Hope that makes sense.

[Trigen]

Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but what exactly does one need for a sanwa stick. I mean obviously you need 6x 30mm buttons, 2x 24mm and the stick but do you have to buy the octagonal restrictor plate if you want an octagonal gate (I've heard people say you can turn the gate on the bottom of the stick to change it from octagonal to square)? Also if it says the stick comes with the Harness does that mean it comes with the 5 wire connector that attaches to the stick?

Again sorry for all the questions, and if this is the wrong place to ask please point me in the right direction.

[TMO Gaming]

Trigen, yes the "Harness" is the 5-pin connector with the wires. But the Sanwa JLF does not come with the octagonal restrictor, you need to buy that seperate for around $5.

The gate that comes with the JLF can be turned or rotated to change the sticks operation from 8-way (square) to 4-way (diamond)

Some people like the octagonal gate and some people hate it.

If you are going to place an order for $70 worth of parts, you might as well throw the octagonal restrictor (pt#: GT-Y) in with your order. It is easy to pop on and off.

[mugglefookr]

-list of sticks that are suitable for modding: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=119686

This link in the op is dead, does anyone have any idea if a similar thread was made? Right now I'm looking for something cheaper than an HRAP2 that I can just mod all of for similar or better results.

[TingBoy]

This link in the op is dead, does anyone have any idea if a similar thread was made? Right now I'm looking for something cheaper than an HRAP2 that I can just mod all of for similar or better results.

Tekken 5 stick (will need something to grind/file down metal tabs in buttons)
Namco stick (a bit rare, arcadestickmonk has a tutorial on how to mod)
Hori Fighting Stick 2/3 (there are threads in this forum on how to mod this)

The last two sticks will take a bit more effort to mod, while the T5 only requires the grinding and drilling of 4 holes through the restrictor gate.

[Kane Blueriver]

I'm using acrylic to protect the art, so I have 2 questions:

1.- Which is the recommended thickness for the acrylic, to be resistant but also to be able to work with it easily?

2.- Any recommendations for the paper and the DPI to print the art?

[Green]

Are you going to hold it down with buttons only or will it be held down by screws/lips at the ends/corners?

[Kane Blueriver]

Are you going to hold it down with buttons only or will it be held down by screws/lips at the ends/corners?

The case I'm using has screws (for the top metal sheet), so I guess I'll be using those to hold the acrylic, too.

[KabaL]

Kane, try to avoid screws at the top of the acrilic, they really look ugly dude!

La dura !! jaja

I would prefer to held it down just by the buttons

[Kane Blueriver]

Does it makes any difference? The acrylic I have is of about 4/5ths of an inch, but it seems to be too thick, or maybe I don't have the appropiate tools to work with it.

[Kane Blueriver]

So... no suggestions?

[Dreamcazman]

4/5ths of an inch thick! Somethings not right there. 3mm is more than enough for a top panel.

Yeah do try to avoid using bolts/screws to hold it down, they look ugly and aren't really needed if you make the plexi a really tight fit. The buttons do a good job of holding it down.

[Kane Blueriver]

4/5ths of an inch thick! Somethings not right there. 3mm is more than enough for a top panel.

Yeah do try to avoid using bolts/screws to hold it down, they look ugly and aren't really needed if you make the plexi a really tight fit. The buttons do a good job of holding it down.

Oh, sorry, I meant 4/50ths of an inch, or 2mm, if you prefer. Problem with the tightness is that the plexi is not "fitted" in a hole, it just covers the metal sheet that is at the same level as the rest of the top of the stick, so you can where the plexi ends. I'll post pictures when possible to give you an idea of what I'm talking about.

[DarthTrey]

I was curious if anyone had a layout template for the Hori T5 stick.

I'm trying to plan some artwork out for it, and just seeing if there was one that was too scale so I can wouldn't have to scan my old top in.


Thanks,
DT

[ticktockcaddy]

im thinking about getting a hori ex2 for my xbox360 any of u know somebody on this forum who will mod it to make it compatible for both xbox360 and ps3? any info will help thanks : )

[lukass64]

These links don't work:
Mods:
-Futhamucka's VERY nicely made guide on modding an agetec green goblin, includes much info about surface preperation and painting. (hot stuff) http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117178 and http://jonesey.clawz.com/joystick2/

[JonnyQuest]

would it be possible to produce some button layouts in autocad format?