The Sanwa and Seimitsu FAQ

[Paik4Life]

Okay, this has been a long time coming. A lot of people new and old to joystick building/modding have questions about Sanwa and Seimitsu parts. Maybe they’re just new to Japanese parts or new to specific parts from either of these companies. Either way this FAQ is intended to be the one-stop thread for answering these questions so that I don’t have to see new threads asking the same questions : ) Let’s get to it then!

Let’s start with the VERY basics and go with some terminology:

Companies:
Sanwa: The largest and most popular Japanese arcade parts manufacturer. Best known for their flagship JLF-TP-8Y (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/sanwa-JLFTP8Y.jpg)joysticks and OBSF (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/sanwa-OBSF30.jpg)/OBSN (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/sanwa-OBSN30.jpg) buttons. You can download their latest catalogue here (courtesty of TheRealNeoGeo and Akihabara Shop):
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/catalogs/Sanwa0708.pdf
Seimitsu: The second largest and most popular Japanese arcade parts manufacturer. Best known for their LS-32 (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/seimitsu-LS32.jpg)/LS-32-01 (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/seimitsu-LS3201.jpg) joystick and their PS-14-G (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/seimitsu-PS14G.jpg)/PS-14-GN (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/seimitsu-PS14GN.jpg) buttons. You can download their latest catalogue here (courtesy of TheRealNeoGeo):
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/catalogs/Seimitsu2007.pdf

I made a small Sanwa joystick movie today:
(http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=4856692&postcount=2163)http://www.akihabarashop.jp/misc/AkihabaraSanwaJoysticks.mp4

And the old Seimitsu joystick movie is not so big as it used to be (from 120mb to about 65mb):
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/misc/AkihabaraSeimitsuJoysticks.mp4

Hope this helps a little to those who are having problem viewing them :).



Happ: The largest and most popular US arcade parts manufacturer. Best known for their Competition joystick and Competition buttons.

Joystick and Button Parts:
Microswitch: An electronic component found in both joysticks and buttons that when activated complete a circuit between the ground and signal connection.
PCB: An acronym for printed circuit board. Some joysticks have microswitches connected to a PCB and used pinned output instead of tabs or direct soldering to microswitches.
Mounting plate: Metal plate attached to the base of the joystick. This is mounted to the control panel with the use of screw or nuts and bolts.
Wire harness: A molex connector that is used on certain joystick PCBs. Sanwa manufactures JLF-H (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/sanwa-JLFH.jpg)and Seimitsu manufactures H5-PIN (http://akihabarashop.com/products/seimitsu-H5-PIN.jpg).
Restrictor/gate: Device that restricts the movement of the joystick to a specific pattern or shape.
Square restrictor/gate: The standard for joysticks. This has corner/notches in the up-right, up-left, down-left, and down-right directions only. Being a square, the distance from the center of the gate to the corners is longer than the distance from the center to up, down, left, and right directions.
Octagon restrictor/gate: This has defined corner/notches in all 8 directions. Each notched direction is equidistant from the center. Sanwa's octagon restrictor for the JLF series is the GT-Y (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/sanwa-GTY.jpg).
Circular restrictor: This has no defined notches making a perfect circle path. Every possible direction is equidistant from the center; however, this does not mean that the stick recognizes all possible directions. Sanwa's circular restrictor for the JLW series is the GT-0 (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/sanwa-GT0.jpg).
Snap-in push buttons: The most common type of buttons that secure to a control panel with tabs that “grip” onto certain material thicknesses. Examples are the Sanwa OBSF (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/sanwa-OBSF30.jpg) and the Seimistu PS-14-G (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/seimitsu-PS14G.jpg).
Screw-in push buttons: These types of buttons are threaded and are secured onto control panels with a threaded nut for a stronger more versatile hold. Examples are the Sanwa OBSN (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/sanwa-OBSN30.jpg) and Seimitsu PS-14-GN (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/seimitsu-PS14GN.jpg).

Electrical:
Ground: The common electrical signal that must be connected to a signal connection for a switch to activate.
Signal: The electrical signal specific to each input.
Quick disconnect: A terminal that is crimped onto the ends of wires. These terminals then plug onto the tabs on a microswitch.

Miscellaneous:
2-way: Movement that allows inputs of either left or right (also up or down).
4-way: Movement that allows inputs of up, down, left, or right. Many classic games like Pac-Man use 4-way joysticks. Many people equate 4-way movement with square gates, but this is INCORRECT as they are talking about two different principles/properties of joysticks.
8-way: Movement that allows inputs of up-right, up, up-left, left, down-left, down, down-right, right. Most modern games use 8-way joysticks. Many people equate 8-way movement with octagon gates, but this is INCORRECT as they are talking about two different principles/properties of joysticks.
Throw: A term used to describe the maximum distance/angle a joystick lever can be moved from the neutral position.
Engage: A term used to describe the distance a joystick lever must be moved before a switch is activated.
Deadzone: A term used to describe the area surrounding the neutral position where the joystick can be moved but not yet activate a switch. The maximum distance from the neutral position is obviously less than the engage.

[Paik4Life]

With that out of the way, let’s move on to some common questions first!

Q: What’s the big deal about Japanese parts? What’s the real difference between US (Happ) and Japanese parts (Sanwa/Seimitsu)?
A: Japanese parts are a different style and type of parts for different types of players. There are a number of differences in the construction and feel for both the joysticks and the buttons. In the end, it’s all a matter of preference, but to help you along the way this guide will outline the general differences in order to help form your own opinions/preferences.

Q: Can you compare and contrast Happ joysticks with Sanwa and Seimitsu joysticks?
A: Sure, I’ll help you out! The first difference people notice is the look. Happ parts are fitted with a bat top (sometimes called tear drop) while Sanwa and Seimitsu come standard with a ball top (sometimes called gumball). Let it be known that Sanwa sells a bat top (LB-30N (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/sanwa-LB30N.jpg)) accessory that can be fitted to any Sanwa or Seimitsu joystick.

In terms of feel, Happ have a harder spring causing stronger tension leading to more resistance. Aside from the Perfect 360s, both US and Japanese parts are restricted to square movements. Japanese parts typically have easy switching to 4-way operation (Seimitsu often come with 2-way option in their gates as well). Sanwa sells extra restrictor gates for circular (JLW models only), octagon (JLF models only), and 2-way (both JLF and JLW models).

Q: Can you compare and contrast Happ push buttons with Sanwa and Seimitsu push buttons?
A: The biggest difference between the two is the “clicking” feel that is associated with Happ buttons. When depressed, the buttons will click indicating the button is activated. Japanese parts do not have this sounds/feel. Japanese buttons require much less force to activate the switch.

In terms of construction, both use spring as the basis of resistance. Happ parts are much longer than both Sanwa and Seimitsu parts. Happ makes both concave and convex buttons. Sanwa and Seimitsu make buttons that are convex only although Seimitsu snap-in buttons have very little to no convex shape.

Q: Which company is better? Sanwa or Seimitsu?
A: Depending on what you’re looking for in your joysticks and buttons, the answer is different. Although Sanwa is the more popular brand in Japan, Seimitsu is also very popular. It’s almost like asking Coca-Cola or Pepsi. Each camp can boast a large hardcore following but then there are a large amount of people who honestly find both to be great with no strong preference to either. When it comes to comparable parts, Sanwa is more expensive and is often regarded as being more ruggedly built with finer materials.

Q: Which Sanwa or Seimitsu joystick is the best for fighting games?
A: I know it’s getting redundant but once again it all comes down to preference. The two most popular joysticks for fighters are the Sanwa JLF series and the Seimitsu LS-32 series, but then there’s a lot of support for the Sanwa JLW series as well as the other Seimitsu series like the LS-40 (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/seimitsu-LS40.jpg) or LS-55 (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/seimitsu-LS55.jpg) series.

Although I will not make a definitive statement on which stick is better or the best, I will outline the differences between the two companies’ flagship joysticks.

The Sanwa JLF is the most popular Japanese style joystick. It goes against the standard levered microswitches found in nearly every other joystick manufactured by any company. The JLF microswitches are connected to a PCB with a 5-pin output. Comes stock with a square gate for 8-way operation but can be turned 45 degrees for 4-way operation.

The Seimitsu LS-32/LS-32-01 is the second most popular Japanese style joystick. It has traditional levered microswitches that either have tabs for .187” quick disconnects (LS-32) or are connected to a PCB with a 5-pin output (LS-32-01). The LS-32 series has a harder spring for greater tension and resistance as well as a shorter throw and smaller deadzone. Comes stock with a restrictor plate that can be adjusted to 2-way, 4-way, or 8-way operation. In terms of price, the LS-32/LS-32-01 is around half the price give or take.

For detailed measurements on Sanwa and Seimitsu sticks, see here (courtesy of kowal):
http://www.kowal.itcom.pl/ArcadeParts_pliki/Zestawienia.htm
http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/4286/beztytuuco8.gif

Q: Which Sanwa or Seimitsu button is the best?
A: Haha, you guessed correctly. It’s opinion again. And once again instead of taking sides, I’ll just note the major differences.

In terms of operation, each comparable button will last about the same. The Sanwa RG (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/sanwa-OBSF30RG.jpg) and Seimitsu GX (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/seimitsu-PS14GX.jpg) series both use higher end microswitches which last 5 times longer than the normal microswitches from either company. Sanwa are reputed to be more sensitive than Seimitsu. Seimitsu offers a larger variety of colors, color combinations, and finishes (pearl-like and transparent finishes) than Sanwa. Seimitsu buttons cost a little less than Sanwa.

Note that in terms of performance and feel there is no difference between the Sanwa snap-ins and screw-ins. For the Seimitsu snap-ins and screw-ins, the only difference is the curvature of the button. As stated previously, the Seimitsu snap-ins are nearly flat with little to no curve while the screw-ins have more curve that is comparable to the Sanwa buttons.

[Paik4Life]

With those general questions out of the way, we’ll move onto questions that will help with building/modding.

Button installation:
24mm (OBSF-24 (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/sanwa-OBSF24.jpg)/OBSN-24 (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/sanwa-OBSN24.jpg) and PS-14-D (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/seimitsu-PS14D.jpg)/PS-14-DN (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/seimitsu-PS14DN.jpg)) and 30mm (OBSF-30 (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/sanwa-OBSF30.jpg)/OBSN-30 (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/sanwa-OBSN30.jpg) and PS-14-G (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/seimitsu-PS14G.jpg)/PS-14-GN (http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/seimitsu-PS14GN.jpg)) buttons from Sanwa and Seimitsu refer to the diameter of the holes that they will fit into. Snap-in buttons from both companies grip to 2-4mm material thicknesses while screw-ins from both companies hold on to upwards of 8mm.

All the buttons from Sanwa and Seimitsu have .110” tabs for their microswitches. .110” quick disconnects (http://akihabarashop.com/products/sanwa-AT-110.jpg) plug onto these tabs perfectly.

Lastly, keep in mind that each button needs a minimum internal clearance to fit; however, this clearance is usually less than the clearance needed for the joystick. The Sanwa RG and Seimitsu GX buttons are extra long and would need the extra internal clearance.

Joystick installation:
The standard mounting height for Japanese joysticks is to have 23-24mm of shaft above the control panel to the bottom of the balltop. Depending on the stick and the mounting plates being installed, you will have to calculate how deep you will have to install the stick.

For Japanese sticks, it is highly recommended that you top mount the joystick unless your top panel is metal. In some cases, it is essential to top mount. To top mount joysticks, you will need to use a tool that can create a recessed area the size of your mounting plate at the correct depth. (For mounting plate dimensions please go to http://akihabarashop.com/products.html and thank TheRealNeoGeo for providing these measurements and Japanese parts!). Additionally, you will need to have a tool that will create a hole in the control panel so that the base of the stick can fit through and attach to the mounting plate from beneath the control panel.

If you use a layer of acrylic (plexi) or polycarbonate (lexan) you will need to drill a 24mm hole for the shaft to fit through. This hole is large enough so that the joystick will move in all directions freely.

To remove the balltop from the shaft, use a flathead screwdriver and hold the bottom of the shaft in place while turning the balltop counter-clockwise. To replace the balltop perform the same task in reverse.

All the joysticks from Sanwa and Seimitsu that do not have a 5-pin output have .187” tabs for their microswitches. .187” quick disconnects (http://akihabarashop.com/products/sanwa-AT-187.jpg) plug onto these tabs perfectly.

For the mapping of 5-pin for the JLF see this diagram (once again made by TheRealNeoGeo):
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Misc%20Pics/sanwakopplingen.jpg

And one for the LS-32-01 (again by TheRealNeoGeo):
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Useful%20Photos/7b31b058.jpg

Lastly, keep in mind that each stick needs a minimum internal clearance to fit. Generally, a minimum internal clearance should be 1.6” but 1.75” would be a safer bet.

And that's that for now! Feel free to post away. I'll make edits when I see fit!

~Paik

[laurie47]

Well done mate. Sticky time.

[Rakukojin]

Sanwa Catalog (Thanks to TheRealNeoGeo)
http://arkadesticks.com/sanwaca.zip
http://www.akihabarashop.com/catalogs/Sanwa.pdf

Seimitsu Catalog (Thanks to TheRealNeoGeo)
http://www.arkadesticks.com/seimitsuca.zip
http://www.akihabarashop.com/catalogs/Seimitsu.pdf

Sanwa/Seimitsu Comparision Chart (Thanks to kowal)
http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/4286/beztytuuco8.gif

This thread deserves a sticky :party:

[RushingMonkey]

from my experience, it's not that seimitsu buttons are less sensitive than sanwa's, I feel they just have an harder spring.

great thread btw, sticky plz! :clap:

[dongle]

Excellent, thanks!

[NiteWalker]

Great work as usual Paik.

Now someone stick this shiz!

[Fusulu]

Alot of good info!
Thanks Paik! :tup:

[Green]

Mincing words here, but...
<Microswitch: An electronic component found in both joysticks and buttons that when activated create a circuit between the ground and live connection.>
Technically the circuit is already there. When actuated, the switch closes the circuit.

[Paik4Life]

Thanks Raku, I was too lazy to find the links for the catalogues that TRNG hosted on his sites. I've edited them in.

Green, thanks for the correction. I rreally meant "complete the circuit" instead of creating one. Heh. Edited!

~Paik

[LingPanda.]

Thanks Raku, I was too lazy to find the links for the catalogues that TRNG hosted on his sites. I've edited them in.

Green, thanks for the correction. I rreally meant "complete the circuit" instead of creating one. Heh. Edited!

~Paik


Should've made a pdf file with info Paik.

[RushingMonkey]

the Seimitsu snap-ins are nearly flat with little to no curve while the screw-ins have more curve that is comparable to the Sanwa buttons.

quick question:

does this apply to Seimitsu PS-14-K (skeletons / transparent) buttons? I was planning to use them + some Seimitsu standard screw-ins (PS-14-GN) on my next stick, and already ordered them... hope the feeling of the buttons isn't very different :sad:

(didn't ordered the PS-14-G snap-ins since their bezel seems very different from others)

[PattyBam]

nice stuff man:tup:

[kowal]

Throw: A term used to describe the distance a joystick lever must be moved before a switch is activated.this definition describes engagement. Throw this maximum trwavel/angle of joystick from plumb - line.

[Mayhem]

Comes stock with a square gate for 8-way operation but can be turned 90 degrees for 4-way operation.
Turning it 90° would still result in an 8-way square, 45° on the other hand would give you a 4-way rhombus. Other than that very good work. I actually wrote a similar guide just a couple of days ago for a Swedish beat 'em up community.

[Paik4Life]

Thanks to both kowal and Mayhem for corrections to my mistakes : )

~Paik

[Dj_Matrix]

lol beat me to posting... bout time and yes this needs sticky...

[kowal]

you can add the definitions of engagement under definition of throw, this is important parameter

Engage: A term used to describe the distance a joystick lever must be moved before a switch is activated.:tup:

[Mayhem]

you can add the definitions of engagement under definition of throw, this is important parameter
Might be a good idea to add to add a definition for deadzone as well, i.e. the area in the center of the stick where no switch is activated yet. Also mention that as well as having a shorter throw the LS-32 has a smaller deadzone as well.

[Cowdisease]

quick question:

does this apply to Seimitsu PS-14-K (skeletons / transparent) buttons? I was planning to use them + some Seimitsu standard screw-ins (PS-14-GN) on my next stick, and already ordered them... hope the feeling of the buttons isn't very different :sad:

(didn't ordered the PS-14-G snap-ins since their bezel seems very different from others)According to Akihabarashop.com (http://akihabarashop.com/products.html)


Seimitsu PS-14-K – ¥300
Snap-in / Diameter 30 mm / Weight 12 g

Also known as skeleton buttons, both plunger and bezel on these are clear. Similar in performance to PS-14-G.

[RushingMonkey]

According to Akihabarashop.com (http://akihabarashop.com/products.html)

ok, they may be similar in performance but bezels are clearly different:

http://akihabarashop.com/products/seimitsu-PS14G.jpg

http://akihabarashop.com/products/seimitsu-PS14K.jpg

[Mayhem]

ok, they may be similar in performance but bezels are clearly different:
Indeed, the performance quote only refers to the microswitch which (to my knowledge) is the same.

[RushingMonkey]

maybe this can help to explain the throw/engage problem?

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/3051/throwengagevt2.th.jpg (http://img516.imageshack.us/my.php?image=throwengagevt2.jpg)

(measurements are approximative :P)

[kowal]

RushingMonkey: this is well:wgrin:
Paik4Life: you can replenish pictures your descriptions
http://kowal.itcom.pl/Files/Emu/photo.zip

[Green]

The plungers in my Seimitsu screw-ins are a little taller than Sanwa snap-ins (not exactly sure), if that's any help.

[hellhound7]

ahhhhh!! I can't move. I must of stepped in sumthin STICKY!!!

[vkuwabara]

very good!!

About US parts vs Jap parts, is HAPP the only US-style manufacturer that has the same quality as sanwa/seimitsu? it's because a friend of mine says that it's all the same shit (the common manufacturer here is 'EM')

[brophog]

Generally the companies are Happ, Sanwa, Seimitsu, Suzo, and Fanta.......depending on which part of the world you are in. There are knockoffs and clones of the above, but these are the big ones.

[Paik4Life]

RushingMonkey: Sorry that I missed this question before. I don't have first hand experience with the PS-14-K. I believe they have a similar convexness to the screw-ins. I know the PS-14-P have screw-in convexness. I believe only the PS-14-G and PS-14-D are the only ones that are flat-like. I honestly do not know the reason.

vkuwarbara: Happ is just the major company in the US. Their quality is very good. I just defined them here for comparison purposes. I did not write more on their products since this is a Sanwa/Seimitsu FAQ, and I personally much prefer Japanese parts. Although someone should think about putting up a Happ FAQ.

For everyone who's helping. Thanks. The FAQ is far from complete. I just covered the main bases. I'll provide links to pics where necessary in time (thanks kowal), but for now, I think it's in good shape.

Again, any correction or suggestions will be edited in when I think they are useful and when I have the time. Big updates like pics for everything will come when I have another large chunk of time.

~Paik

[Cowdisease]

Here's an interesting question. We're aware that if you're using a Sanwa joystick with Seimitsu buttons, you'll need to buy a Seimitsu joystick balltop for your Sanwa joystick to match your Seimitsu buttons (the reverse is true for Seimitsu joystick and Sanwa buttons).

My question is which brand's color closely matches that of Happ competition buttons? I want a stick with a Sanwa joystick and Happ competition buttons, and I was wondering if the Sanwa balltop would closely match the color of Happ buttons, or if I need to get a Seimitsu balltop.

[RushingMonkey]

RushingMonkey: Sorry that I missed this question before. I don't have first hand experience with the PS-14-K. I believe they have a similar convexness to the screw-ins. I know the PS-14-P have screw-in convexness. I believe only the PS-14-G and PS-14-D are the only ones that are flat-like. I honestly do not know the reason.

~Paik

thank you very much ;) it seems that my pack is gonna arrive in few days, so hopefully I can confirm this soon.

[Cheesey]

How can you tell a knockoff from a genuine sanwa button?

[hellhound7]

sanwa buttons say sanwa on the underside. The microswitch too.

[bafiaris13]

I noticed on both catalogs that the layouts between 1p and 2p are different...

the 1p look like HRAP1 while 2p like HRAP2..how come?

[Paik4Life]

It's because normally the 1P sides takes up more space because it's right-handed playing style. That gives 2P less room so he's kind of pushed over and the buttons are adjusted as such.

Think about it at a restaurant booth. If the wall is on the left side of the booth, the person sitting on the inside (who is right-handed) takes up more than half the table due to his right arm being positioned normally. The person to the right of him shift over more on the table and might even have his right elbow hanging over the edge of the table (which doesn't affect his eating but effectively reduces his table space).

~Paik

[NiteWalker]

I was thinking the same thing but wasn't 100% sure because I've never played on a japanese cab outside of Tekken 5 DR.

Makes logical sense though.

[bafiaris13]

yes i thought so too but why then make 2 different layouts on stick..lol

in case someone's stuck in playing on one side and then not be able to change???

anyways..thanks

[spoon]

I'm looking at the 2p astro city panel on the sanwa catalog atm and both sides look like the HRAP2 layout to me, just that the 2p side is angled about 20 degrees (but still the same layout) @_@

[edmondantes]

how would you choose between seimitsu 32 and the 01 model? Faq says they're set up differently, so what's the advantage in paying ~$1 extra for the 01 model?

[Paik4Life]

For full details on the differences, please go to
http://akihabarashop.com/products.html

The main difference is that the LS-32-01 has the microswitches attached to a PCB with a 5-pin output similar to the JLF series. The 5-pin cable (H5 pin) is included with the LS-32-01. The LS-32 does not have a PCB and you wire the live and the ground directly to the tabbed microswitches.

The secondary difference is that the LS-32-01 has an s-shaped mounting plate. LS-32 has a flat mounting plate.

On a side note, LS-32-01 PCBs are printed with LS-32-02 even though LS-32-02 does not exist in the catalog. TheRealNeoGeo explained to me that he believes this was due to a mistake by Seimitsu. Probably when they had to make a new PCB after problems with the original PCB. Thanks Per!

EDIT: I took the time to link pictures for parts throughout the first three posts. Parts are courtesy of Per and AkihabaraShop. Thanks again, Per! : )

~Paik

[RushingMonkey]

package arrived, so I can update about PS-14-GN (seimitsu standard screw-ins) vs PS-14-K (seimitsu transparent button, snap-in) ;)

the convexness of the plungers is the same, and the bezels are the same too (so it's not the "flat" bezel of the standard snap-ins - but this was also clear from the pics on akihabarashop tough). the surprise is that the height of the plungers is actually different. PS-14-K is lower, and it doesn't seem to have the typical "2 stage travel" of seimitsu screw-ins (which is well described in this (http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118702) thread).

[RushingMonkey]

why this thread isn't stickied yet? :annoy: btw I have another n00by question :P

The Sanwa JLF is the most popular Japanese style joystick. It goes against the standard levered microswitches found in nearly every other joystick manufactured by any company. The JLF microswitches are connected to a PCB with a 5-pin output. Comes stock with a square gate for 8-way operation but can be turned 45 degrees for 4-way operation.


I tried, but I couldn't figure out HOW to solidly snap the rescrictor in, when turned 45 degrees. Any suggestion?

[kowal]

http://img350.imageshack.us/img350/3825/image1674uo1.th.gif (http://img350.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image1674uo1.gif)
http://img350.imageshack.us/img350/7140/image3170mr5.th.gif (http://img350.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image3170mr5.gif)

[Mayhem]

I tried, but I couldn't figure out HOW to solidly snap the rescrictor in, when turned 45 degrees. Any suggestion?
You should be able to separately rotate the centerpiece of the restrictor.

[RushingMonkey]

cool, I didn't know it was possible to separate the central piece from the rest of the restrictor. thank you both very much and sorry again for the n00b question :D

[leaveal]

holy hell, i never noticed that. O_o thanks for pointing that out!

[2hai]

Well i always heard about the Sanwa Flash and stuff, and since this is a FAQ thread, I was hoping someone could answer questions of curosity. I know that the Sanwa Flash plays on optics and stuff rather than switches, but whats the real difference in like quality/build and playing with it. Would it might be similar to the P360 version.

Assuming TRNG is able to get Flash (fingers crossing), how would i go about it mounting/installing it. Let's say like a hrap or something. I know about the 5 pin, but the 3 pin for voltage, what do i do with this (as u can see, i'm not really bright with joysticks or electronics for the matter of fact.).

Thanx for any answers.

[Paik4Life]

I don't think mods with sticky this thread since they are trying to keep the stickies to a minimum. It would be nice for it to be included in the Essential Stick Building Thread or whatever though. Oh well, doesn't matter to me.

The Sanwa Flash is basically a JLF stick with a different PCB. You also have a few extra things like the 3-pin which is used for the 5V (to power optics), rubber ring, and clear plastic ring (both used between the PCB and the base of the stick).

Being the same as the JLF, it uses the same mounting plates and can be mounted the same exact way. It also uses the same restrictors/gates as the JLF.

I will probably add a Flash1 section to the FAQ soon, since Per is probably going to get the Flash1 back for us even if it is a limited run.

~Paik

[ColSonders]

For Japanese sticks, it is highly recommended that you top mount the joystick unless your top panel is metal. In some cases, it is essential to top mount. To top mount joysticks, you will need to use a tool that can create a recessed area the size of your mounting plate at the correct depth. (For mounting plate dimensions please go to http://akihabarashop.com/products.html and thank TheRealNeoGeo for providing these measurements and Japanese parts!). Additionally, you will need to have a tool that will create a hole in the control panel so that the base of the stick can fit through and attach to the mounting plate from beneath the control panel.


I'm looking to make my first stick using a sanwa JLF-TP-8YT. Never made a joystick before so really very new to this.

I WAS planning on using a 1/2" thick surface as the top surface of my base (probably using MDF), looking at the pics of the sanwa sticks and mounting plates it appears that the plate sits on top of the main components (of the joystick) with the stick coming out from that. So in 1/2" thick board would I be attaching the mounting plate to the underside with the stick obviously sticking through a hole?

That seems to be how to mount the stick, but this would leave very little shaft (after going through 1/2" of board) sticking out the top.

If this is the correct way of mounting the stick is it possible to use 1/4" board with a circular hole for the stick and another 1/4" board underneath it with the hole for the stick/mounting plate?

[Paik4Life]

Your post was kind of convoluted but basically if you top you have to make a hole through the top panel that is are enough to fit the base of the joystick. In addition to that you must make a recess around that hole so that the mounting plate will sit inside of it. When you're done with the top panel it should look something like this:

http://s10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Stainable%20Case/?action=view&current=a50489d0.jpg&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch8

When you put the JLF in that area, the mounting plate and joystick will fit in that area and the mounting plate will be BELOW the top panel. NOT sitting on top. It should not even be flush with the top panel otherwise it will be sitting a little too high.

http://s10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Cap%20Hustler/?action=view&current=d87a9ef2.jpg&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch3

Hope that is helpful. If you want, you can read my other thread and find out more, but I do not suggest you follow it since it's a more advanced method of building sticks that only TheRealNeoGeo (you could call him my mentor, heh heh) and myself use, but there might be some other helpful information for you.

~Paik

[ColSonders]

Cheers Paik, sorry if I wasn't very clear with my question, but you've given me the answer I needed anyway.

edit* How do you make a recess? is there a particular tool or method for doing that? (sorry I did electrics at school instead of woodwork)

[Paik4Life]

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111273

That's my journal/tutorial on how I build my sticks. You don't want to follow it honestly because it's too advanced for you at this stage. But there is a section for mounting the joystick. Check there. If you have any ore questions post up again either here or in that thread.

~Paik

[ColSonders]

That's my journal/tutorial on how I build my sticks. You don't want to follow it honestly because it's too advanced for you at this stage.


OooooOOO get you! :rofl:

Sorry I had already found that thread and had already answered my own question. Should of posted back to say i'd managed.

So far i've got my sanwa stick and buttons ready and waiting and have cut my MDF to size this morning, found a friend that owns a router and will be over this coming week to make my recess for the stick. Cheers again for the help, much appreciated.

[PgruvR]

T5 stick mod question:
Can I put in a sanwa LB30N instead of JLF joystick

[Paik4Life]

Yes, you can just replace the stock balltop on the T5 stick with the LB30N bat top.

~Paik

[Cynnik]

On the US T5 stick, can a seimitsu ls-32/ls-32-01 be installed? i noticed the mounting area is not the same as the hrap series as the hori stick is not mounted on with a plate so would i need the ls-32 flat mounting plate or the ls-32-01 s-shape mounting plate? or no mounting plate? thanks.

[Paik4Life]

Yes, you can mount an LS-32. You will probably have to drill new holes in your mounting plate or the brackets on the T5 since I dont' believe they will align. You will want an s-shaped plate since the LS-32 has a shorter shaft and you will want it to mount as high as possible. Since you will want the s-shaped plate, I would recommend just going and getting the LS-32-01. It comes stock with the s-shaped plate and with a PCB and wires harness which make things easier anyway.

~Paik

[[Roz]]

Just tought on hoping by and give fat props to you Paik4Life. Kickass guide. Many thanks.

[Slªde]

How is a Sanwa BAT-top going to compare to say a Happ competition?

[Slªde]

Anyone?

[Paik4Life]

Ah sorry, missed your question. I can't honestly compare them due to the fact that it's been a long time since I've played on a US style stick. In terms of size, they are roughly the same, but the stick won't feel like a US style just because of the bat top attachment obviously. It'll still feel like a Jap stick for all intents and purposes. If you're worried then I say to buy it. It's not that expensive and you can always take it off if you don't like it.

~Paik

[Paik4Life]

I can't let this thread die...I put too much time into making it! Bump it up!

~Paik

[EastX]

It has been a good thread so far. Sanwa was on top for a while, but Seimitsu got up with a dragon punch and hasn't relented since.

[GoldenYear]

I just put a LS 40 in my HRAP, is that as good as ths LS 32? It seems a bit tighter to play with from what I can tell.

[Paik4Life]

Updated the first post to reflect the new catalogues.

Well, LS-32 is more often used and is said to be the "best" of the Seimitsu line, especially for fighting games, but it's all opinion.

~Paik

[hellhound7]

So now that Sanwa has the new button color with the black beazel , is it now possible to make Seimitsu button colors with sanwa buttons?

[Paik4Life]

Yes, in a sense. You can obviously change out the plunge from any other 30 mm button and have yourself a Seimitsu like button. I've talk to Per about this, and he is going to see if Sanwa would be willing to do more/all colors with the black bezel. That would be nice. The only bad part that remains is that it's snap-in. No black bezel screw ins.

~Paik

[Onslaught2000]

I was curious.

For the Tekken stick, would Sanwa OBSN-30 Buttons and a Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Gate fit into the stick? A friend is looking to mod his stick with better buttons and a octagonal gate. So I was suggesting these, but was'nt too sure if they would be compatible.

[Paik4Life]

The octagon gate only fits onto JLF series. The stock T5 stick is not JLF. It's not even Sanwa. So, the answer is no.

No real arcade buttons will fit in without modification. But if you do the correct modding, yes they will fit.

~Paik

[Onslaught2000]

Alright, I was'nt too sure so I just wanted to get that cleared up, well, the button question anyways. I just completly forgot that the gate only fits into the JLF series and did'nt take that into consideration. D'oh!

Oh yeah, great thread!

[BigEd80]

I noticed on both catalogs that the layouts between 1p and 2p are different...

the 1p look like HRAP1 while 2p like HRAP2..how come?

Actually you're wrong, HRAP1 layout, also known as console layout is found to be on Super Neo 29 Cabinets if you make the cabinet an 8 button cabinet, so it's Neo Geo Layout. HRAP2 layout is well the other cabs (versus city, blast city, naomi, and cyberlead?) layouts.

[Mayhem]

Actually you're wrong,
Actually he is not. Take a look at any Astro City-format 2L12B panel manufactured by Seimitsu or Sega, you'll see each player's button layout is rotated differently. For panels manufactured by Sanwa the difference is much less noticeable though.

[buyproduct]

Quick and easy question:

On a LS-32 stick (the one without the pcb) which tab is the ground? The top one or the bottom one.

[Paik4Life]

Either is fine.

~Paik

[J-ride]

How is a Sanwa BAT-top going to compare to say a Happ competition?

The semitsu ls32-01 feels much more like a comp than a sanwa. Granted I've only played one once (sanwa) , but you can definitely feel the corners on a semitsu, the only diff between the comp and semitsu is that because semitsu has such a short path around the stick, the diagonals are deep, so take Ryu for example, if you push down, diagonal, and forward the red fireball will come out because the diagonal is so close to down, so you do the motion diagonal forward. Wierd at first but after you get used to it, its pretty nice. So after having a jap stick for a few months I can play on an american just fine, but I really like how precise they are, and how quickly they respond.

[buyproduct]

Either is fine.

~Paik

I knew that was true for the buttons but I didnt know it was true for the actual joystick.

[xen0dude]

The octagon gate only fits onto JLF series. The stock T5 stick is not JLF. It's not even Sanwa. So, the answer is no.

No real arcade buttons will fit in without modification. But if you do the correct modding, yes they will fit.

~Paik

hmmm in this thread, it was confirmed that the octagon gate can fit in a T5 stick with a little mod on the gate

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117885

[Paik4Life]

You know, I totally forgot about the jumpsuit mod and all the sticks it works for. Thanks for pointing that out! Sorry for the lapse in intelligence iAHVB!

~Paik

[Emphrygian]

I've been lurking these forums for a while and I'm thinking of building a custom stick. However, I can't decide whether to put in a Sanwa or Seimitsu stick. Now, I know it all comes down to personal preference, but it would be very helpful for me if anyone could compare the feel of the JLF and/or LS-32 compared to the stick on a Hori SC2 joystick, since I own one.

Any comparisons on Sanwa/Seimitsu buttons vs the buttons on the Hori would also be greatly appreciated.

[Lupus]

3 quick questions...

i know you need a 1 1/8" bit to drill holes for the 30mm buttons, but what size bit for the 24mm buttons?... i assume it doesn't matter if they are screw in correct?

also, do you need a special tool to tighten down the screw in sanwa buttons?

Thanks in advance

[Paik4Life]

emphrygian: I would say that the stock SC2 joystick would feel more like an LS-32. And the stock buttons would feel like the normal Seimitsu PS-14-G.

Lupus: For 30mm you need a 1-3/16" tool. For 24mm you need a 15/16" tool. And unlike Happ buttons, you do NOT need a special tool to tighten the screw-ins for Sanwa or Seimitsu.

~Paik

[Lupus]

emphrygian: I would say that the stock SC2 joystick would feel more like an LS-32. And the stock buttons would feel like the normal Seimitsu PS-14-G.

Lupus: For 30mm you need a 1-3/16" tool. For 24mm you need a 15/16" tool. And unlike Happ buttons, you do NOT need a special tool to tighten the screw-ins for Sanwa or Seimitsu.

~Paik

do you use a particular ratchet then? or is finger tightening sufficient? Thanks again homie.

[Paik4Life]

Just your fingers : )

~Paik

[Lupus]

Just your fingers : )

~Paik

You're the man Paik... loving your stick by the way... i've spent some more time with it recently and love it... octagon gate just came in yesterday and can't wait to pop it open and check out your wiring

thanks again homie

[Taiki]

Any idea if anyone's done a writeup on how to mod a CPS Fighter stick with sanwa parts?

[Doc Holliday]

Anyone know if the Seimitsu LS 32-01 has extra play in the stick? I've got an HRAP2 that I just put it in. The stock Sanwa was nice but I heard alot of things about the 32-01 that I figured I'd like, including a stiffer spring and a shorter throw. Well that's all well and good but when I push the stick in a direction, after it hits the restrictor, the top part of the stick moves an 1/8th of an inch past where the restrictor is supposed to stop it. This is because of all the vertical play in the stick itself (you can pull it up and down just like Sanwa's). The stick DOES stop at the restrictor but since of the vertical play, it moves up and over in the direction that I'm throwing it in. I don't know if any of that makes sense, it's hard to explain it. In any case, it kinda defeats the purpose of switching over to this stick since the throw ends up being the same as the Sanwa's. Does anyone have that issue or do I have faulty equipment?

[Paik4Life]

Taiki, the CPS Fighter Stick would be pretty odd to mod considering the stock buttons are small and close to each other. The stick is fairly thin and would be difficult to mount a stick. I haven't even looked at mine that close because it doesn't seem to be a reasonable stick to even attempt.

H82, I'm not really sure what you're describing but I have never had a problem with the LS-32 moving past the restrictor. Most of the time, my shaft hits the metal base piece before it even has a chance to hit the plastic restrictor piece. I mean, yeah if you put a really strong force on any stick, it will have vertical play that will lift the stick out of it's normal path. But if you're doing that, then you're just not playing correctly. : )

~Paik

[Taiki]

well, looks like I get the task of doing that write up then. :) After seeing the mod of the NeoGeo old style home stick with Sanwas, I figured it was POSSIBLE...

I finally broke my CPS Fighter Stick apart and finding that there is more than enough space to fit screw in 24mm sanwas for the buttons and maybe an LS-32 for the stick. I prefer sanwa, so i'm going to try to shoehorn a JLF first

[M K L]

Keep the stock stick, it's Sanwa anyway.

[tomorr0w]

How do 24mm buttons compare with 30mm buttons? Is there any difference beyond size?

[Mayhem]

How do 24mm buttons compare with 30mm buttons? Is there any difference beyond size?
They use the same kind of microswitch so there shouldn't be any difference in performance.

[Taiki]

Keep the stock stick, it's Sanwa anyway.

is it? I'd rather have a JLF in any case.

[M K L]

is it? I'd rather have a JLF in any case.

It's a Sanwa JLW.

[Taiki]

It's a Sanwa JLW.

It's not the JLW that Sanwa's selling now. When I have a few spare minutes, I'll take pics... Looks more like a Hori or even seimitsu...

[M K L]

I could take pics too, it's unmistakably a JLW with Sanwa written on it.

[Taiki]

Do you have a Japanese CPS Fighter?

[M K L]

yes.

[Taiki]

yes.

that explains it.

Could you take photos of the internals if you've got the time/effort? I want to know how to mount a JLW in this thing and if it's possible to mount a JLF in it's stead.

http://www.planetnintendo.com/thewarpzone/hardware/inside.jpg

That's what mine looks like. I can't find my camera for some reason, otherwise I'd take much more detailed pics of the mech assembly.

Basically, it looks like some sort of seimitsu mechanism with a blue and white base. I've never seen these before, but I've never worked with seimitsu parts before.

[M K L]

So they used a Sanwa stick only for the Japanese release... good to know.

Anyway here's the pics:

The stick is screw mounted on the bottom shell and there's even a hole for the shaft in case one wants to remove the ball:

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/3595/s2023004bz1.jpg

The JLW restrictor is glued to the bottom:

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/9076/s2023005mm1.jpg

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/7046/s2023006et5.jpg
http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/4043/s2023007qi9.jpg
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/2100/s2023008im7.jpg

I don't think a JLW would be too difficult to mount on your stick, it would be just a matter of adding 4 spacers (of different height though) on the bottom shell. As for the JLF I don't think you can mount one as neatly since they don't have threaded inserts on the bottom like the JLW so you would have to drill holes on the top shell which is not even flat... can be done but it will not look very nice.

[Taiki]

Huh, this explains a lot. Looks like a JLW will drop right in... Since I already own a JLF stick(HRAP), I'm going to go with a JLW with a red bat top and some 24mm buttons. Although if i'm right, it's already mostly a sanwa button because i think that's a sanwa switch soldered to the board. In either case, time to hack for hacking's sake.

thanks!

mind if i upload these pics to the Game SX/NFG Wiki for the CPS Fighter?

[M K L]

Sure, you can use the pics.

The buttons have Tokaicom switches which is what Seimitsu uses for their buttons so even if they're not Sanwa they're still arcade quality switches:

http://www.tokaicom.jp/product30/page10/detail.htm

These switches are also found on the Neo Geo old style stick, Namco PS1 arcade stick and all the HRAP buttons.

[Taiki]

i'm going to have to mangle the hole in the case.

Which means I have to either suck it up and break out the sharp objects, or just stick with the stock buttons. I'm honeslty not sure what I'll do with the buttons.

However, with the stick, it's a no brainer, I'm swapping in a JLW. Let's hope this works.

[pherai]

Hey guys, I recently ordered a sanwa stick to go into a case I originally designed for an american style stick, and the mounting plate doesnt fit obviously. I've been trying to think of a way fit it in there, when i finally just noticed this.

http://akihabarashop.com/products/sanwa-JLWUM8.jpg

That mounting plate looks the same dimensions as an American stick. Can anyone confirm this for me? It would save me a big headache!

Also, my friend is looking into seimetsu buttons. Any recommendations? I don't know anything about them.

[r-ch1e]

a few questions...
will a circular resistor work with a sanwa JLF? will any of the sanwa resistors work with any seimitsu joystick? last one, whats a better joystick for MVC2?

[Super Warrior]

Wow neat topic.

I'm getting a SF:AC stick soon that i plan to mod one of these days. Thought about maybe this sanwa stuff, since i already have a happ stick. Since the choice between the two all boils down to a matter of preference, and happ is fine, i'll just stick with it then.

[Doc Holliday]

Taiki, the CPS Fighter Stick would be pretty odd to mod considering the stock buttons are small and close to each other. The stick is fairly thin and would be difficult to mount a stick. I haven't even looked at mine that close because it doesn't seem to be a reasonable stick to even attempt.

H82, I'm not really sure what you're describing but I have never had a problem with the LS-32 moving past the restrictor. Most of the time, my shaft hits the metal base piece before it even has a chance to hit the plastic restrictor piece. I mean, yeah if you put a really strong force on any stick, it will have vertical play that will lift the stick out of it's normal path. But if you're doing that, then you're just not playing correctly. : )

~Paik

Paik, what you just described is what's going on. Only problem is, I'm not using alot of force. I play it the same way I do my Sanwa and I don't have that problem. Even before I installed the stick, it had that extra vertical play when I was messing around with it. Granted, I haven't gotten to the point yet where I can do moves by just go off the sound and feel of the clicks. I still need to hit the restrictor. When you say base metal piece, you're not talking about the mounting plate are you? Something just isn't right. I'm pretty sure I installed everything just fine. It's not like it was that difficult to understand.

[Paik4Life]

Hey guys, sorry that I haven't been keeping up with the thread in helping answer some of your questions. I've been in Korea since Xmas, as some of you may know. I'm still there now and have very irregular access to a computer and internet. I don't have the time to answer all the questions now but when I get back on Sunday, I'll be sure to answer all the questions early next week.

~Paik

[TheRealNeoGeo]

pherai
http://akihabarashop.com/catalog/sanwa-JLWP1S.jpg
I made measurements on all mountingplates, look in my shop and you will see it:
http://akihabarashop.com/products.html#sanwa-JLF-P-1
Look in my shop (it is not open for orders yet though) for Seimitsu-buttons, there is text you can read about every button.

r-ch1e
1. No circular restrictor work on JLF (yet).
2. No Sanwarestrictor works on Seimitsujoysticks.
3. For MvC2 I think most people like the HAPP joystick better for this (Competition or P360).

[Ex-S]

Hmm, so I was looking at the comparison chart on page 1 and noticed that the engage for the Seimitsu LS-40 and LS-56 have a 3.5mm engage vs. 4.5mm for LS-32 and 5mm for Sanwa JLF..... Soooo, does that mean that the LS-40 and LS-56 are significantly more sensitive than the 2 flagship sticks? The reason I ask is b/c the Sanwa JLF doesn't really feel the same as the sticks in the arcades.... supers are a lot harder to buffer into; at first I thought it was me, but when I go to the arcade I hit my combos with no problem which gives me the suspicion that the Sanwa JLF might not be the best stick for fighters?.....

[chippermonky]

well ex-s, you could easily make a stick with a .001mm engage, but who would use that. It's all a matter of taste.

I felt the JLF had a bit too big of a throw, but I got use to it after about half an year of playing :p. What kinda sticks do the arcades have anyways?

[Ex-S]

LOL... yes a .001mm engage wouldn't be very functional = P.... But yeah, I'm not sure if it's the engage or the deadzone on the JLF that makes if difficult to use. The JLF throw is fine for me; it feels pretty much the same as the arcade... LS-40 is pretty cheap though so it might be worth trying one, but I don't know of anyone who's used one. Anyway, all the fightining games are on SEGA VersusCity cabs, so whatever stick those cabs have would be the one I want.


well ex-s, you could easily make a stick with a .001mm engage, but who would use that. It's all a matter of taste.

I felt the JLF had a bit too big of a throw, but I got use to it after about half an year of playing :p. What kinda sticks do the arcades have anyways?

[chippermonky]

LOL... yes a .001mm engage wouldn't be very functional = P.... But yeah, I'm not sure if it's the engage or the deadzone on the JLF that makes if difficult to use. The JLF throw is fine for me; it feels pretty much the same as the arcade... LS-40 is pretty cheap though so it might be worth trying one, but I don't know of anyone who's used one. Anyway, all the fightining games are on SEGA VersusCity cabs, so whatever stick those cabs have would be the one I want.

where exactly would you plan on getting an LS 40?

Anyways, granted I just asked you where you were planning on getting one, I might be getting 2 in a bit and I'll tell you how they feel.

[Ex-S]

where exactly would you plan on getting an LS 40?

Anyways, granted I just asked you where you were planning on getting one, I might be getting 2 in a bit and I'll tell you how they feel.

Akihabarashop.com carries it. That's probably my best bet.....

[jugoso]

I have doubt: Seimitsu sticks (LS-32) come with two restrictors. One blue and other bright cyan (between the blue one and the actual stick). Is the cyan one really a restrictor? If so, is it the 4-way restrictor? Should I remove to play 3s?

[Doc Holliday]

I have doubt: Seimitsu sticks (LS-32) come with two restrictors. One blue and other bright cyan (between the blue one and the actual stick). Is the cyan one really a restrictor? If so, is it the 4-way restrictor? Should I remove to play 3s?

I wonder if that's why mine seems screwed up. Refer to earlier post for details. :wgrin:

[M K L]

I have doubt: Seimitsu sticks (LS-32) come with two restrictors. One blue and other bright cyan (between the blue one and the actual stick). Is the cyan one really a restrictor? If so, is it the 4-way restrictor? Should I remove to play 3s?

The cyan one is the square 8-way restrictor. It's the blue one that you may well remove as it does nothing unless you use its 2- or 4-way cutouts. Actually it's funny to see all these modded sticks that are exclusively used for fighting games with that blue restrictor there doing nothing...

[Uthred]

If Im using 3mm lexan on top of say 1/2" mdf would snap in buttons grip to the lexan or would I need to go with screw ins and route out the mdf ?

[Green]

The snap-in buttons should be able to grip the 3mm Lexan fine.

[Taiki]

say, I've been looking at the bottom of my spare jlf, and is it possible to fit the GT-O into the JLF?

[Paik4Life]

GT-0 will not fit the JLF normally. But who knows, with modding almost anything is possible.

~Paik

[unledded]

Are there black sanwa buttons?

[CyborgRJ]

there is any other place I can buy sanwa/seimitsu parts..
the http://akihabarashop.com it's temporally closed...
Thanks

[Paik4Life]

Are there black sanwa buttons?

No, there are no black Sanwas, only Seimitsus.

there is any other place I can buy sanwa/seimitsu parts..
the http://akihabarashop.com it's temporally closed...
Thanks

There are other sellers such as ponyboy (Sanwa) and goleaf (Seimitsu) who are members of these forums. Check their threads in the Trading Outlet forum. There are other online stores such as lizardlick and gremlin solutions.

~Paik

[Paik4Life]

Wow, I just noticed this became a sticky...I never though it would be since I posted this thread like 9 months ago! Thanks, mods!

~Paik

[SaBrE]

your welcome. too good of a faq to go to waste. helped me out in recent days

[unledded]

How much beating can a sanwa joystick and buttons take?

[Paik4Life]

How much beating can a sanwa joystick and buttons take?

That is such a general question that there is no answer for you. That's like asking how long a certain car will last. It depends on how you use it. How well you take care of it. How much you use it. How badly you abuse it. It depends on if you know how to properly use it.

In the future, ask a more specific/logical question...

~Paik

[Khiempossible]

Where's a good site to order buttons from?

I'm looking to purchase 12 individual sanwa buttons of the OBSN variety. I can't seem to find any distributors close to home (Ottawa ON Canada). Anyone have some suggestions?

How much am I looking to pay (I've budgetted $4 CDN/button + shipping or $60). What am I looking at for shipping?

[shoo]

Check the New Essential Joystick thread :tup:

[deadfrog]

Quick question about RG buttons

(not from this thread)
The Sanwa RG`s have bigger microswitch thus giving it longer lastingtime (and a little different feel when playing).

I heard they withstand five times the punishment of a regular button. I really like the idea of saving myself four out of five repairs, and I'm pretty sure they don't cost five times as much as a regular button. Sounds good to me!

Yet I don't ever hear about anyone using these... Just how different is "different?"

Thanks in advance for any and all help!

[Paik4Life]

They don't necessarily take 5 times the abuse. They are just tested to last 5 times more presses. So if you play like a raging gorilla and pound on buttons, these aren't really going to help you.

Plenty of people use them. They feel a bit different but I bet most casual gamers wouldn't know the difference. Maybe just hardcore people who build and mod often.

~Paik

[TheRealNeoGeo]

RG`s are very nice indeed, love them ^_^. The lasting time is set to 5 x OBSF-30, that is what they say, but it will last a lot longer than that (I have seen these used for elivatorparts, my dad works as a repairman at a hospital).

[Kuprin]

Question on the JLF 5-pin connectors and cables: If the only stick available to me is the one with the 5-pin connector, the microswitches *don't* have tabs for quick disconnects, right? I'll need to get a cable for it?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Kuprin
They do not have tabs like for example Competitionstick from HAPP. You need a cable (JLF-H or H5-PIN).

[Rocaerix]

Is the connector on the JLF a standard connector type or is it unique to the JLF? Just wondering if I can just go down to a local electronic store and buy a connector and make a cable myself.

[Paik4Life]

You'll be hard pressed to fine the same connector in local stores...even in more specialized hobby stores. They are cheap enough where there is really no point in wasting time trying to find them locally.

Seimitsu's wire harness is the same type (only the color wires are switched around) so you can buy those if you want a cheaper alternative.

~Paik

[Rocaerix]

You'll be hard pressed to fine the same connector in local stores...even in more specialized hobby stores. They are cheap enough where there is really no point in wasting time trying to find them locally.

Seimitsu's wire harness is the same type (only the color wires are switched around) so you can buy those if you want a cheaper alternative.

~PaikOK thanks for the quick reply :).

I am buying local (living in Australia) since I need the parts within a certain timeframe. Thus more expensive, will just bite the bullet and buy the standard harness then.

[Gwyrgyn Blood]

Might be the wrong place to ask but does anyone have the measurements for the locations of the buttons/stick on a typicaly Sanwa with standard Japanese style button layout? Just wondering about the distance between buttons, distance between buttons and the stick, things like that.

Happ has this one: http://www.rootminus1.com/howard/stickbuilding/happ_stick_ergo_plans.pdf

But it doesn't have measurements for the distance between buttons and how much higher/lower each row is.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Gwyrgyn Blood
http://arkadesticks.com/japlayout.jpg

[Gwyrgyn Blood]

Thanks, that's just what I was looking for.

[m1lk]

here are two sanwa sticks,

the one below here is a 15$ JLW-TM-8
http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/..._jlw_green.jpg

the one here is about 25$ and its a Sanwa JLF-TP-8T
http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/..._jlf_green.jpg

i'm assuming that the only reason the 25$ stick is 10$ more than the other is because of the wire harness.

thanx in advance

[Paik4Life]

They are two completely different sticks. They have a different feel and specifications. The JLF is by far the most prevalent Japanese stick for fighting games. The JLW is a stick that is more traditional in build and construction.

The reason the JLF is more expensive is because it has a PCB and wire harness and again is by far the most used joystick for fighting games in Japan.

~Paik

[M K L]

Gwyrgyn Blood
http://arkadesticks.com/japlayout.jpg

That's an odd layout: the stick hole is lower than on arcade CPs, HRAPs, etc.

[xXxDa_RaGexXx]

Ok I am haveing trouble getting this stick to work. I am trying to put a jlf inside of it. But I can't seem to get the wireing right for the stick. The wire harness that I got has a pin layout that reads
1-Orange
2-Green
3-Black
4-Red
5-Yellow
Even when i rig up all the wires i can only get one direction to work and its not even the right direction >_<

[xXxDa_RaGexXx]

here is the insides

[Toodles]

You're wire harness is different colors from the usual. It looks like Orange is the ground on yours. If so, then the color to direction mapping is this:

O - Ground
G - Right
B - Left
R - Up
Y - Down

[xXxDa_RaGexXx]

You're wire harness is different colors from the usual. It looks like Orange is the ground on yours. If so, then the color to direction mapping is this:

O - Ground
G - Right
B - Left
R - Up
Y - Down

if that is the case maybe that explains why i can only get one direction to work. I was hooking black to black thinking both were ground.

could that be a seimitsu harness? I have so many parts I might have got it mixed up

[xXxDa_RaGexXx]

^^thanx for the help stick works fine now

[Xnewbguy]

I got a question on the JLF TP 8T
http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/images/for_sale/joysticks/sanwa_jlf_black.jpg

The way the wires are color coded makes it difficult to hook it up.
I've been trying to use this diagram, but since its different I cant get it to work.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Misc%20Pics/sanwakopplingen.jpg

and, when I plug the wires into the joystick, do I plug it in so that the two little nub things are facing up or down?
Thanks in advance

[Paik4Life]

Don't go by the color, because those wires aren't official Sanwa. Just use the diagram based on the position of the wire.

~Paik

[TheRealNeoGeo]

And I think the correct product ID is: JLF-TP-8YT.

edit: It was 8T, thought it was turned like normal.

[dummyface]

What Sanwa/Seimitsu sticks fit in the astro city control pannel?

[Paik4Life]

There are a lot of different types of panels with different mounting areas. There are some that easily allow both JLF and LS-32 (01) to fit (with the proper mounting plates) but others that only allow one or the other. You would have to look at the mounting area on the panel itself.

~Paik

[dummyface]

There are a lot of different types of panels with different mounting areas. There are some that easily allow both JLF and LS-32 (01) to fit (with the proper mounting plates) but others that only allow one or the other. You would have to look at the mounting area on the panel itself.

~Paik

It looks like this,

http://hellion.no-ip.org/pics/neo/snapshot018.jpg

The bracket has 3 holes in it, With only the middle one being threaded for a screw.
Sorry the image is so crappy.
Thank you.

[Mayhem]

http://hellion.no-ip.org/pics/neo/snapshot018.jpg
Those mounting brackets are designed for Seimitsu LS-32(-01) with a Sega custom mounting plate, which AFAIK can't be bought from Seimitsu. Maybe there are other sticks that'll fit as well but I know nothing about that...

[Paik4Life]

Yeah I think, Mayhem is correct although a top view would have been a bit better. I have one of the mounting plates for the LS-32 (01) but I sold my other ones so even if I sold you mine, you'd still need one more. : /

~Paik

[dummyface]

http://hellion.no-ip.org/pics/neo/snapshot019.jpg

If you have a plate I can copy it.

[Paik4Life]

Yeah, that looks like you need the one that I have. I'm not 100% sure though. If you want it, hit me up on AIM or with a PM and we'll discuss it. Here's a picture of what it looks like:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Useful%20Photos/th_P1010731.jpg (http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Useful%20Photos/P1010731.jpg)

~Paik

[Sendo]

Could anyone answer a quick question for me? I'm looking to build a lot of sticks over the next few months and was looking to get a lot of Sanwa and Seimitsu stuff in bulk, maybe 150 buttons, 10 or 15 sticks, plus leads, gates etc. I've scoured the other threads and i'm aware of the majority of places that sell these products, but i'm not sure what the best bet for bulk ordering would be, for example, which places offer a quantity discount? It seems that Excellent are the cheapest, but they are limited in choice, mainly in terms of colour. Can anyone give me a little advice on this? Would be be much appreciated! :)

[A.C]

i'm aware of the majority of places that sell these products, but i'm not sure what the best bet for bulk ordering would be

just contact each supplier - its not like there are that many. copy/paste your request, shoot off a couple emails & see what they come back with. its not that much legwork. i'm sure most will be willing to negotiate - but as with all negotiations - each deal is somewhat unique to each builder.

[Sendo]

Cool thanks man, i was planning on doing that, i guess i was also interested to see whether anyone had any particularly good experiences with similar bulk orders.

I'm actually having a look through the Japanese Sanwa catalogue, i'm wondering would my best bet be to order straight from the source, and cut out the middleman?

[Paik4Life]

You won't be able to order straight from Sanwa or Seimitsu with such a small order. I've done orders myself that were much larger than yours and unless you're going to approach them as a distributor, they won't ship to you since they don't take international orders.

~Paik

[Sendo]

Thanks for your response man. OK, what sort of sized order would i need to place in order for them to deal with me? Also, i could probably get a contact in Japan to order domestically, would that be the best thing to do in this case?

[Paik4Life]

Honestly, I think your best bet is to go with a established seller like Akihabara, ponyboy, or others. You'll save yourself a lot of trouble. The size of the order you'll need is probably more than you'll honestly ever use by yourself. I bet the very minimum you'd have to order is 50 joysticks and several hundreds of buttons (in quantities of 50 per color).

~Paik

[LeSage]

Hey I just ordered a Sanwa (JLF-TP-8T) from lizardlick, what is the difference between this stick and the one on the HRAP2. I noticed that it says the HRAP2 has a Sanwa (JLF-TP-8Y-SK)?????

[urth]

Hey I just ordered a Sanwa (JLF-TP-8T) from lizardlick, what is the difference between this stick and the one on the HRAP2. I noticed that it says the HRAP2 has a Sanwa (JLF-TP-8Y-SK)?????

HRAP2 one just has a shaft cover, everything else is identical.

[LeSage]

Thanks

[Xorcist]

Anyone know where I can purchase a grey replacement ball-top for a Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK, similar to the one pictured below? I've been looking around and hit just about every color of the rainbow... but no greys.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/248/524124986_d78d6732f6.jpg

Also, what model Seimitsu button should I look for when MODing an HRAP3 (including the start/select buttons)? Should I use screw-ins or snap-ins?

[urth]

Anyone know where I can purchase a grey replacement ball-top for a Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK, similar to the one pictured below? I've been looking around and hit just about every color of the rainbow... but no greys.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/248/524124986_d78d6732f6.jpg

Also, what model Seimitsu button should I look for when MODing an HRAP3 (including the start/select buttons)? Should I use screw-ins or snap-ins?

www.lizardlick.com just got some gray ball tops in, you can try akihabarashop.com also if you can wait longer.

[CoffeeAnon]

Hi, total noob here with some dumb questions that might not even pertain to this thread. :p

First, I'd like to thank Paik4Life for creating this thread, it's cleared up a lot of questions I had.

I'm planning on building myself a custom stick for the upcoming release of Melty Blood VerB, and I want to use Sanwa parts, as they seem to be the standard for Japanese fighters.
I noticed that an earlier picture in this thread showed a metal bracket around the buttons, and I was wondering if that's neccesary, or if I could just make hole in the wood to put the buttons through.
Also, can I just make a hole to fit the joystick through (planning on using the JLF) and if so, how large should the hole be?
And finally, for Sanwa parts, how thick should the wood I'll be working with be?

Thank you!

[B&B]

I am planning on swapping the stick from my T5 hori stick, but there's been something that's really bugging me. I got a 5-pin connector with my LS-35-02 and I know it could work with a JLF, what are the color codes for the wires? I have seen the seimitsu PCB pic on the first page and was wondering if that is the correct color code with the JLF as well.

Thanks,

PS: Paik, I fixed My HRAP2! Yaaay!!

[Paik4Life]

I noticed that an earlier picture in this thread showed a metal bracket around the buttons, and I was wondering if that's neccesary, or if I could just make hole in the wood to put the buttons through.
Also, can I just make a hole to fit the joystick through (planning on using the JLF) and if so, how large should the hole be?
And finally, for Sanwa parts, how thick should the wood I'll be working with be? Thank you!

You don't need the metal plate for the buttons. That's just how they were meant to be used, but they work find without them. The joystick holes is traditionally 24mm.

I am planning on swapping the stick from my T5 hori stick, but there's been something that's really bugging me. I got a 5-pin connector with my LS-35-02 and I know it could work with a JLF, what are the color codes for the wires? I have seen the seimitsu PCB pic on the first page and was wondering if that is the correct color code with the JLF as well.

I assume you mean LS-32-02 (Which is actually the LS-32-01). I posted BOTH the JLF and LS-32-01 wiring diagrams on the first page. They are under the joystick installation section. Both were done by TheRealNeoGeo. Please go there. Also remember that the wiring diagram is specific to the way your PCB is oriented. If the connector points up, down, left, or right they will all have a different wiring scheme hence the multiple pictures provided in the JLF diagram.

~Paik

[CoffeeAnon]

Paik, thank you very much for the helpful information!

I just have one more question: about how thick should the wood I'll be installing the joystick/buttons through be?
I don't want to make the joystick, drill the holes, and then find out they won't fit.

[Paik4Life]

It doesn't matter how thick the wood is really aside from making sure it's thick enough so it won't flex. A lot of people use 3/4" or eve 1/2", but it really depends.

When you mount the joystick, if you want it mounted correctly, you should have the joystick 8-9mm below the top panel of the joystick. This was stating in the joystick installation section of the first posts. But a lot of people ignore that to make it easier on themselves.

~Paik

[CrouchingTiger]

The GT-O is for the JLW... is there no way to get a circular gate on the JLF?

I'm a HAPP man myself, but I'm building a stick and want to keep the size to a minimum... but HAPP parts are so freakin long/big. I'm thinking of going with Sanwa even though I don't like the buttons, but if I can't get a circular gate I'll just have to bite the size bullet and stick with HAPP.

[hanz0]

hey what size drill bits do i use for sanwa buttons

the 30mm ones and the 24mm ones what number size drillbits?????:sweat:

[Paik4Life]

The GT-O is for the JLW... is there no way to get a circular gate on the JLF?

I'm a HAPP man myself, but I'm building a stick and want to keep the size to a minimum... but HAPP parts are so freakin long/big. I'm thinking of going with Sanwa even though I don't like the buttons, but if I can't get a circular gate I'll just have to bite the size bullet and stick with HAPP.

Nope. Sorry. Well, almost anything is possible with enough modding, but to answer your question, it's basically no.

hey what size drill bits do i use for sanwa buttons

the 30mm ones and the 24mm ones what number size drillbits?????:sweat:

30mm and 24mm...hence the sizes that are given. This information was also included in the first posts that I wrote under button installation. Please read before asking questions.

~Paik

[CrouchingTiger]

Ah, thanks Paik. Well in that case, what is the difference between the JLF and the JLW? I saw where you outlined the difference between the JLF and the Seimetsu LS32, but didn't see a comparison between the JLF and JLW. Unless I overlooked it. =p

What makes the JLF the more popular choice over the JLW?

[Paik4Life]

JLW is an older design that uses typical microswitches with levers. No PCB. I really like the JLW with circular gate, personally. But it's really just preference. JLF is just a "better" and more compact design.

~Paik

[Sendo]

You won't be able to order straight from Sanwa or Seimitsu with such a small order. I've done orders myself that were much larger than yours and unless you're going to approach them as a distributor, they won't ship to you since they don't take international orders.

~Paik

Thanks for your previous advice man. I've actually decided that it may actually be worth my while setting myself up as distributor. I'm looking to make a lot of custom sticks on a regular basis, so ordering in excess of 50 sticks initially and say 5 or 600 buttons may make sense. I would then most likely sell the parts individually, whilst using the stock for my own purposes. There aren't many sellers in the UK so it would be another useful resource for people over here.

Would you be able to give me any advice on how to go about contacting Sanwa, and setting myself up as a distributor? I have several friends fluent in Japanese so communication will not be a problem.

Thanks again for your help on this man.

[Isop]

So, correct me if I'm wrong. In order to "correctly" mount a jlf onto a NON RECESSED surface, such as a straight acrylic case, the material would have to be no thicker than 1/4 inch?

If true, then does anyone have sugestions for an acrylic/plastic material? The stuff at lowe's/home depot is trash it seems and I'd like to know wtf i'm getting before I shellout the cash for an online purchase. If anyone has experience with acrylics and acrylic case construction, your advice on specific materials would be greatly appreciated.

The dimensions of the case would be similar to those of the T5 stick, perhaps a tad larger. Just looking for something that is rigid enough.

[Gwyrgyn Blood]

The GT-O is for the JLW... is there no way to get a circular gate on the JLF?

I'm a HAPP man myself, but I'm building a stick and want to keep the size to a minimum... but HAPP parts are so freakin long/big. I'm thinking of going with Sanwa even though I don't like the buttons, but if I can't get a circular gate I'll just have to bite the size bullet and stick with HAPP.

You can use HAPP buttons in a Sanwa stick and only have it be a little deeper. Mine made like this is only 3" deep total, using 1/2" MDF.

[Yeton]

Quick question: I was looking into picking up a couple of 30mm button plugs, but noticed that Sanwa's were a little bit raised/convex for my tastes. Are Seimitsu button plugs flatter/more flush with the control panel, or are they the same?

[Maho]

I remember reading somewhere that it was possible to change the microswitch from a Seimitsu skeleton button for a Sanwa one (ref SW68?), can someone confirm that?

[Paik4Life]

Would you be able to give me any advice on how to go about contacting Sanwa, and setting myself up as a distributor? I have several friends fluent in Japanese so communication will not be a problem.

Thanks again for your help on this man.

If you have a friend that can read and write Japanese just go to their website and e-mail them.

So, correct me if I'm wrong. In order to "correctly" mount a jlf onto a NON RECESSED surface, such as a straight acrylic case, the material would have to be no thicker than 1/4 inch?


9mm is the "correct" mounting height. That is about 1/3"

Quick question: I was looking into picking up a couple of 30mm button plugs, but noticed that Sanwa's were a little bit raised/convex for my tastes. Are Seimitsu button plugs flatter/more flush with the control panel, or are they the same?

They seems pretty similar to me, but Seimitsu plugs that I've used were smooth. Sanwa's are textured.

I remember reading somewhere that it was possible to change the microswitch from a Seimitsu skeleton button for a Sanwa one (ref SW68?), can someone confirm that?

Yes you can.

~Paik

[SatsuiNoHadouRyu]

If I was to replace the ball handle, ie change color, on my HRAP2, how would I go about doing that?

[urth]

take a flathead screw driver put it into the screw head slot under the stick and turn the ball.

[hanz0]

Nope. Sorry. Well, almost anything is possible with enough modding, but to answer your question, it's basically no.



30mm and 24mm...hence the sizes that are given. This information was also included in the first posts that I wrote under button installation. Please read before asking questions.

~Paik

I asked that cause i went to the hardware store but all i see is stuff like 1 1/8, 1 1/4 and a bunch of other sizes and i dont know which one is the right one:sweat::looney:

[urth]

I asked that cause i went to the hardware store but all i see is stuff like 1 1/8, 1 1/4 and a bunch of other sizes and i dont know which one is the right one:sweat::looney:

30mm hole saw drill is 1 3/16", 24mm is 15/16" i believe. Just search the forums, i remember there was a post about them.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

One inch is = 25.4mm so it is easy to calculate.

[SatsuiNoHadouRyu]

So for my HRAP2 I use Sanwa OBSF-30/24 snap-ins?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

SatsuiNoHadouRyu
Yes, or Seimitsu PS-14-G and PS-14-D.

[CoffeeAnon]

Another stupid question here.

Say I wanted to make a pad for PS2, would a 4-way or an 8-way stick be better for this?

[urth]

Another stupid question here.

Say I wanted to make a pad for PS2, would a 4-way or an 8-way stick be better for this?

huh? be more specific. What do you want to do? I assume when you say "pad", you mean an arcade stick for ps2?

[Chaosdragon13]

Its written in the first post that the sanwa buttons 30mm and 24mm holes based on their number, but I was wondering how well they fit into a 1-3/16" and 15/16" hole. Both of those are close to the metric sizes, only off by 0.1 or so which makes me think that they would work pretty well, but it would be nice to know for sure before I go out an buy the drill bits from somewhere.

[CoffeeAnon]

huh? be more specific. What do you want to do? I assume when you say "pad", you mean an arcade stick for ps2?

Oops, yes I meant an arcade stick.

[CrouchingTiger]

The standard mounting height for Japanese joysticks is to have 23-24mm of shaft above the control panel to the bottom of the balltop.

I see a lot of people routing a recess just deep enough to make a JLF plate flush with the surface of the stick. To get 23-24mm, they'd need to recess it about 3/8 inch. Are you sure 24mm is standard? Or do most people just not care enough about a few mm to get it right? =p

[Gwyrgyn Blood]

That's the standard, all of the ones I've had and made have the wood routed down far enough to get the stick to standard length. It's around 3/16" with lexan and art on top.

Its written in the first post that the sanwa buttons 30mm and 24mm holes based on their number, but I was wondering how well they fit into a 1-3/16" and 15/16" hole. Both of those are close to the metric sizes, only off by 0.1 or so which makes me think that they would work pretty well, but it would be nice to know for sure before I go out an buy the drill bits from somewhere.

It's a good fit. Tight enough to use snap-ins or screw-ins just fine.

[Paik4Life]

Frankly, most people don't care or don't have the technical skills to correctly and accurately make a recess at the correct mounting depth, taking into the account the thickness of their plexi/lexan.

Not to sound like an ass, but I know more about Sanwa and Seimitsu stuff than probably 99% of the people building sticks. It's the reason I put together this FAQ. So you can choose to believe me or not. Frankly, I don't care. But I did answer your question.

~Paik

[CrouchingTiger]

with lexan and art on top.

Man I wish we had that smiley that's like slappin himself on the forehead. I completely didn't factor in the whole plexi/lexan/art thing. Makes sense now. =)

[StreetSkiver]

Lastly, keep in mind that each stick needs a minimum internal clearance to fit. Generally, a minimum internal clearance should be 1.6” but 1.75” would be a safer bet.

I wonder how I dare asking a question here :blush:

Anyway I'm totally experienceless in modding, I never hold a JLF-TP-8Y nor a LS-32/LS-32-01 and I guess it might explain my curiosity/naivety.

I read here and there that the Seimitsu stick demanded a little more space than the Sanwa one.
Such difference isn't really important when you build a stick from nothing but can have a great impact would you try to mod an existing commercial arcade type joystick (in short either it fits... or not :lol:).

So would anybody as kind as give me the exact space needed for both models (using the metric system would even be better for me :wink:).

I dream of two schematic draws with the height dimension indicated ?
I couldn't find it for both joysticks.

In fact since I will probably consider the height of joystick boxes from the outside what I'm most interested in is the total size that actually should fit in the box (with around 9 mm between the joystick surface and the "shaft insertion point" if I'm correct).

This thread is great and very informative, too bad that some links seem dead.

Thanks !

[Isop]

Both my jlf's are used and have a bit of "play" before the spring rate ensues. It's like, how you have a little bit of play in the stick of a manual transmision. I noticed that the "white thing" at the base of the shaft, looking down on the stick, would move ever so slightly, indicating the source of the play. Is there a way to tighten this up?

[A.C]

I dream of two schematic draws with the height dimension indicated?

Dreams can come true :)

http://www.akihabarashop.com/catalogs/Sanwa0607.pdf
http://www.akihabarashop.com/catalogs/Seimitsu2006.pdf

The dimensions you seek are within. Enjoy.

[hanz0]

i know this might sound dumb,:sweat: but where the hell is the ground on the sanwa snap ins???? i been scratching my head for a while:wasted: theres only 2 contacts and none of them are marked to tell you wich one is ground??????:confused: unlike happ buttons that have marks to tell you where to connect stuff:annoy:

can someone help please

[Gwyrgyn Blood]

Either one is ground, it doesn't matter.

[hanz0]

thank you, you are my new hero!!!!:wgrin:

[JubeiNinja69]

i accidently spilled some soda into my seimitsu ps 14 k buttons. now some are sticky. how do you clean them?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

JubeiNinja69
Take it apart and clean it (remove the button and take out the microswitch and clean).

[StreetSkiver]

Dreams can come true :)

http://www.akihabarashop.com/catalogs/Sanwa0607.pdf
http://www.akihabarashop.com/catalogs/Seimitsu2006.pdf

The dimensions you seek are within. Enjoy.

Thanks :clap:

[Maho]

I'm working on a stick but won't get my parts till next month, someone loaned me a router for the week end and i would like to do the routing for the JLF-TP-8YT mounting plate. My problem is there is no schematic of it in the sanwa catalog, but there is one for the JLW, is it the same size? And if not does someone have a schematic for the JLF one?

[TMO Gaming]

Hello,

It is my turn to ask some questions. :wgrin:

1. Varför skulle JAG vilja en Seimitsu LS -33 eller LS -40? JAG er inte kunna berätta vad är så olik vid sett på bilderna. Är en tarvlig betydligare? Er den skaften längd , diametern eller cologne?

2. Hur gör en få en svart skaft täcke för en LS -32-01?

JAG vilja fort svar till min spörsmålen, please.

[Paik4Life]

Maho, go here:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=4031607&postcount=2

I would try to answer your questions, but they look like they are in Swedish...so, I can't help.

~Paik

[TMO Gaming]

1. Why would I want a Seimitsu LS-33 ors LS-40? I'm unable to tell what is so different when looking at the pictures. Is the base bigger? Is it shaft length , diameter or color?

2. Is it possible to get a black shaft cover for a LS 32-01?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

TMO Gaming
LOL :D Swedish (well, kinda, haha)

1. LS-33 has a very small base (almost same size mountingplate as the Sanwa JLF), smaller than LS-40. LS-40 is about the same size as the LS-32.
http://www.akihabarashop.com/catalog/seimitsu-LS33.jpg
http://www.akihabarashop.com/catalog/seimitsu-LS40.jpg

2. LS-32(-01) has to big off a shaft so the shaftcovers don`t fit it.

[B&B]

Per: Correct me if I'm wrong, but all of the Sei sticks play the exact same right. The only difference between them would be the mounting plate and for the Ls-32-01, the PCB, right.

[Paik4Life]

No, they definitely do not all play the same. Some have drastically different feeling including, but not limited to spring tension and throw. Obviously, many of the changes in the construction, like shaft length and smaller base contribute to these differences.

~Paik

[postkastl]

Has anyone of you tried a LS-56 ? I like the LS-32 , but I kinda want a longer shaft - and according to kowals chart it's engange is even shorter than the LS-32 which would be perfect for my playstyle.
But looking at the smaller and much lighter base one could think that it feels less solid overall than the LS-32?

[TingBoy]

2. LS-32(-01) has to big off a shaft so the shaftcovers don`t fit it.

I thought someone posted something about modding a Sanwa shaft cover by pushing a 9mm drill through it. It apparently made it big enough to fit Seimitsu shafts.

[Paik4Life]

No, that was Per talking about LS-40 shafts and you can drill them to fit JLFs.

~Paik

[TingBoy]

No, that was Per talking about LS-40 shafts and you can drill them to fit JLFs.

~Paik

Oh. I was kinda close? =D

[pyro_dragun]

On this pic: http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/4286/beztytuuco8.gif , I don't understand what the execution ratings mean. On the bottom it says the ratings are from 1-6, with 6 being the best, but then I see negative ratings on some of the sticks, positives on others, and just neutral on the other ones. I am wondering what execution refers to in terms of performance with the stick, if the positive and negative ratings are in relation to something.

[EvilSamurai]

what does the hitting percentage under the diagonal column on the chart comparing the sticks mean?

[Zombies]

On the topic of stick feel...what are some good examples of sticks with a fairly short throw and stiff spring? Is there a way to modify existing sticks to change these characteristics?

[Paik4Life]

Honestly, I also have no clue what a lot of those measurements mean. Most of them are non-standard measurements that kowal seemed to have made up as forms of comparison. I wouldn't read too much into a lot of them.

I honestly don't put much value into anything that is to the right of the engage column. But maybe that's just me. Kowal knows a lot so you should ask him directly.

LS-32 is a good example of short throw and stiff spring. It's pretty difficult to adjust throw and not have the joystick function as accurately but spring stiffness is obviously easy.

~Paik

[deadfrog]

Would anyone be able to explain for me the specifics of what makes the Seimitsu LS-32, LS-32-01, and LS-32-02 different from one another? Many thanks in advance!

(Ultimately I'm interested in possibly putting one into a HRAP2 or a T5 stick, but right now I'm mostly just curious about what is what.)

[Paik4Life]

LS-32-01 IS LS-32-02. The catalog ID is LS-32-01 and has been forever, but at some point Seimitsu must have revised the PCB and changed the printing on the PCB to LS-32-02.

The only difference between, LS-32 and LS-32-01 is that LS-32-01 has the PCB which allows you to use a wire harness. That's it.

~Paik

[kowal]

http://www.kowal.itcom.pl/ArcadeParts_pliki/Comparison.htm

mode - 8,4,2way
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/5024/image543wd0.gif

rotation (restrictors)
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/2/image2014og2.gif

throw
travel [mm]
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/2801/image665co2.gif
angle [degress]
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/1272/image2010uc6.gifhttp://img230.imageshack.us/img230/5045/image2008sp6.gif

diagonals