View Full Version : aluminum stick
djfunkshun
07-24-2007, 03:47 PM
i recently got my sanwa parts from LL so i decided it was time to start on fabricating my case. It is 1/8" aluminum 12"X8"X2.5". Yes i know that may be large but this is for my x360 so some stuffs have to fit in there. ok so i have a case now i am trying to figure out how to mount the JLW i bought i know that the OBSF's will just snap in to the hole i drill out, but what about the stick?
DevilJin 01
07-24-2007, 03:53 PM
Reynolds Wrap stick?
finkle aluminum sticks are sex. i want to see yours when its done :) You can try emailing finkle questions on metal working. He's very helpful and good at it.
djfunkshun
07-24-2007, 03:56 PM
no i work in a sign shop so it is sheet aluminum. an eighth of an inch thick. ok thanks urth i will try to contact him. i have seen some of his stuff and i'm sure mine wont be near as good cus im a newb.
Toodles
07-24-2007, 04:09 PM
You can drill out two holes to mount with. You can weld some bolts to the top plate and use the JLF mounting plate. Could take a piece of aluminum, put two bends in each end and tap threaded holes, weld it to the top plate. You're the one with the metal working knowledge, and there's lot of options.
final_cut
07-24-2007, 04:12 PM
Reynolds Wrap stick?
Isn't reynolds wrap plastic? I think you are thinking of aluminum/tin foil.
I could just wrap one of my sticks in foil and be done with it. =D
djfunkshun
07-24-2007, 04:12 PM
wasnt to sure if it would be that easy i mean i can weld, tap, countersink, whatever needs to be done i guess
djfunkshun
07-24-2007, 04:19 PM
finkle email not work for me and his pm box is full:(
Toodles
07-24-2007, 04:28 PM
You have options.
Measurements:http://www.akihabarashop.com/misc/measurementsjlf.jpg
If you want to just drill, then two holes 65mm apart (32.5mm from the center of the stick hole). I don't know the width of the holes needed; find a carriage bolt that fits the hole of your JLF and drill the hole to match.
If you want to weld bolts on, or make your own mounting bracket, there's the measurements to do so.
djfunkshun
07-24-2007, 04:38 PM
thanks will get started on in the morning when i get back to my ft job
djfunkshun
07-25-2007, 01:51 PM
well here is what i have so far. i only get to work on it for like 20 minutes a day.
wow looking sexy so far.
I want an all aluminum stick -_- GIMMMEEEEE
chippermonky
07-25-2007, 02:14 PM
i put 2 blots through countersinked holes in wood and glue the wood to the underside of the metal and then secure the stick with the 2 bolts sticking out. The glue usually secures the screw, in case it doesn't, you can always dremel out a slot on the bolts and use a screwdriver to make sure the bolts don't spin.
Alright, that's my trade secret. Now gimme some sheet aluminum :D. (seriously, are you authorized to sell that stuff)
djfunkshun
07-25-2007, 02:21 PM
sell i dont know maybe wouldnt be much though. as for the joystick i layed the mounting plate that came with the JLW on the case where i felt it looked good marked out my holes used a 5/32" drill bit then countersink those holes. for my center i used a square and found my center then i just used a step-up bit till it looked right.
Steve F
07-25-2007, 04:19 PM
Sweet as hell. Aluminum stick looks awesome, want to see it with the buttons and everything installed.
djfunkshun
07-25-2007, 04:24 PM
trying to figure out the button layout i want right now this is for my xbox360 so i have enough buttons for A B X Y L R as well as start, back, and the guide. no templates for this laying around here been looking for something close. not having any luck though
djfunkshun
07-30-2007, 01:37 PM
Button layout taken care of. but i have hit a major road bump. I put my wireless controller in my joystick casing and my 360 could no longer see my controller. does any one know if a small window made of acrylic would remedy this problem?
Toodles
07-30-2007, 01:43 PM
The aluminum case will act as a faraday cage and absorb the wireless signal. If you cut a window like you're describing, then signal can only come out in the small area of the window. Turn the stick 90 degrees or so (depending on the size of the window and the placement of the antennae, and you can lose connection. If its a small window, then it could be even less. Is there is any to mount the antennae part on the back of the stick?
djfunkshun
07-30-2007, 01:48 PM
i haven't had a chance to get inside of the controller of the 360 yet but my joystick dimensions are 12"x8.25"x2.5" so i guess i could put mutiple windows or maybe just one large one as for the antenna i dont have a clue i suppose i could mount it externally if it didnt look like shite.
Toodles
07-30-2007, 01:55 PM
If you havent cracked up the controller, why not just keep it intact and get a third party wired controller? Easier to hack, and won't require you to cut windows all over the place.
djfunkshun
07-30-2007, 02:05 PM
i hate leashes
djfunkshun
08-20-2007, 04:16 PM
Sorry for the double post but i felt it was time for an update on my stick. As you can see it has been painted, so i am on to the final steps. since it is basically a fariday cage i have decided to go with a leash and make it wired as to ease the pain of adding a lexan window this late in the game. Plans for my next stick will keep the window in mind from the get-go.
Kid Flash
08-20-2007, 04:28 PM
Beautiful, never seen anything that sexy....if only you could make more and sell them. :amazed: I think you would be happy with wired anyway. After dealing with my wireless 360 pad, i felt it was better to keep them constantly charged on there leash.
Numbski
08-21-2007, 04:42 AM
I think the post a few back had the right idea - outbound the antenna. That will fix you right up, and done properly would be completely unnoticeable.
I really wish I had seen this earlier. There's a metal shop about an hour from here that could have done anodized blue for you. Maglite stick. :)
I wouldn't mind having a sheet aluminum stick either. Very lightweight stuff.
djfunkshun
08-21-2007, 01:44 PM
Working on mass producing blank cases. Getting the aluminum this week.
Toodles
08-21-2007, 02:07 PM
Any possibility of making replacement plates for HRAP style sticks? I got a couple of T5 sticks here that would rock to mod, but modding the current plate is a bitch, and still leaves me with the shitty button layout and the hackish sanwa mounting. Getting a custom plate with a proper layout, and no holes at all where the start and select are, or the hole in the plate where the sliders are exposed on HRAPs, would kick much ass. Definitely let me know if this is a possibility, because I'd kill for two plates, and I think others probably would as well.
djfunkshun
08-21-2007, 02:13 PM
Well off hand i would say yes, But i would need that plate to make a template off of. But basically you would want a clean plate only holes for joystick and buttons?
kin3tix
08-21-2007, 02:18 PM
That would be dope if you could do that :karate:.
Toodles
08-21-2007, 02:32 PM
Well off hand i would say yes, But i would need that plate to make a template off of. But basically you would want a clean plate only holes for joystick and buttons?
Correct. The only holes in my ideal plate would be 5 of the 6 carriage bolts (NO hole for the carriage bolt that is normally on the lower left; I hate the way my wrist rests on it) the six play button holes in the shape and placement of the leftmost six buttons on a HRAP2 layout, and the hole for the stick (and stick mounting holes if you use the same mounting method as your stick).
I'd find some very small push buttons to mount into the small plastic area on the top of the stick (start, select, program, etc.) above the metal panel.
djfunkshun
08-21-2007, 02:40 PM
I mounted my joystick right through the top plate. Used mounting plate for template, drilled out my holes and then used countersink so that everything is flush. There are only four countersink screws on the bottom holding the hole thing together since it is welded.
Toodles
08-21-2007, 02:47 PM
Any chance of a quote for 2-5 pieces like I described? Powder coated them would be a minimum of $35 if I did it locally. But for a reasonable price, I'd be all for removing my plate, sending you paypal, and getting back replacement plates.
djfunkshun
08-31-2007, 01:11 PM
Ok so i got my clear seimitsu snapins in place with a dark blue reflecting 3M vinyl insert since i dont have any artwork on my stick. Waiting for my hacked pad to get here so i can give it a test run.
b00mshakalaka
08-31-2007, 01:27 PM
wow thats nice.
Toodles
08-31-2007, 03:00 PM
Waiting for my hacked pad to get here so i can give it a test run.
Wires are all done, just need to crimp the QD's on. It will be in the mail Saturday, Monday at the latest.
Sorry, first week of college has been hell.
woo new pic with the clear buttons is the hotness! :lovin:
damn that paint looks good.
i wish we could make ours look as clean as your!
djfunkshun
08-31-2007, 04:14 PM
Toodles, understanably so thats partly why i work cus school was hell, just as my first week was with 15 people at my command, shop closed early for holiday will start back on your plate tuesday.
Deci, find a professional that wont charge you an arm and a leg and get them to spray it makes it look much better.
NotANoob81
09-08-2007, 07:11 PM
Stick looks awesome, especially in your avatar.The wdth and length seem awesome but, If I were doing a version of your stick, I'd make the 3 buttons on the top, all 24mm. It just looks better.
Also, if you mount a Sanwa at the proper height, you could make the case as thin a 1.81 inches.
A wide and thin stick case would be super cool and stable looking.
Got pics of the underside?
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