Details on installing Sanwa OBSN-30's?

[supazio]

So I'm almost ready to order parts to make a stick, and I feel like I have a pretty good handle on all the steps in the process except for the deceptively simple one: installing the screw in Sanwas. I plan on using MDF because it seems like the easiest medium to work with right now, but it looks to be too thick to be able to screw the buttons on without any additional routing around the holes, so what's the recommended method?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

What thickness MDF are you using?

[supazio]

I really don't know yet. If a certain thickness would make things easier, then assume that. Otherwise, I'd say 1 inch, but only because this (http://www.gamesradar.com/us/wii/game/features/article.jsp?articleId=20070607143247694045&releaseId=20060308165433320026&sectionId=1003&pageId=20070607144954861040) guide does.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

One inch is way to much. 1" = 25,4millimeters. Max thickness for an OBSN-30 would be 8mm, and that is really MAX.

[supazio]

One inch is way to much. 1" = 25,4millimeters. Max thickness for an OBSN-30 would be 8mm, and that is really MAX.Is it even possible to get a combo of MDF and acrylic that'll be that thin? Or is that assuming there's already a piece of acrylic there?

Sorry for the stupid questions, but I don't want to spend $40 on parts just to be in over my head.

[Multi]

get a larger wood spade, like, 1 1/4" or something, and drill that in about halfway into your wood
then take your 30mm wood spade and make the through hole. The larger wood spade should give you the room you need to screw in the washer and thin out the wood enough.

Alternatively, go get a router or laminate trimmer.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

I do not think you can get a MDF that is that thin, + acrylic = Too thick.
If you do not know how to rout out the wood I strongly suggest you to think this over once again.
You could always drill 30mm holes in the acrylic and put in snap-ins but I am guessing you do not have the 30mm holesaw, correct?

PS: Multi is correct also.

[supazio]

get a larger wood spade, like, 1 1/4" or something, and drill that in about halfway into your wood
then take your 30mm wood spade and make the through hole. The larger wood spade should give you the room you need to screw in the washer and thin out the wood enough.

Alternatively, go get a router or laminate trimmer.Would this method allow for acrylic and a graphic, or would it be just enough to accommodate the buttons?

I do not think you can get a MDF that is that thin, + acrylic = Too thick.
If you do not know how to rout out the wood I strongly suggest you to think this over once again.
You could always drill 30mm holes in the acrylic and put in snap-ins but I am guessing you do not have the 30mm holesaw, correct?The shop I plan to work in has a drill press and some hole saw bits, though I'm not sure if they have 30mm. Is the end result behind this something like Paik's tutorial, but with acrylic instead of the metal plate he uses?

I guess I should change the question to "What's the simplest installation option for 30mm Sanwas? (Screw or snap in)"

[Multi]

The method I described would let you make the wood as thin as you want relatively without having to buy any special toolsb if you don't have a router or chisel set.

Installing 30mm screw ins or snap ins are... well a snap HAH! No no, that was bad of me.

[supazio]

OK, I think I mostly get how to do it now...but two more questions. How should I go about drilling through the acrylic? I think it was paik's journal that said not to drill through at the same time, but I feel like I saw something suggesting that was the best way to do it.
And just for clarification: can snap-ins be snapped directly to the acrylic or do they require metal/wood?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

I don`t use acrylic (plexi glass) but because it is so fragile I think the best way is to drill slowly, otherwise it will crack.
And yes, you can snap snap-in buttons directly to the acrylic.

[Multi]

I use plexiglass. I clamp it to a piece of scrap underneath and i start slowly and then i kick it into high gear. I don't get what all this fragile talk is about, I've nearly TRIED to crack this stuff and i haven't done it after 5 panels yet. I've even drilled a hole in a piece of scrap with the paper removed and not clamped tightly and it didn't crack it.

Though to be safe, i suggest you do clamp it to a piece of wood and keep the protective paper on, even better is sandwiching it between two pieces of wood probably.

[Chaosdragon13]

When drilling plexi I use a drill press on a low setting and go through it in multiple passes. The reason for this is that I find its better to cut the plexi rather and melt through it. On a low setting you creat less heat through friction and taking multiple passes allows it to cool down a little bit in between drilling.

Also I drill both the plexi and my top panel at the same time. However, after you have made it all the way through the plexi you want to stop the drill and remove the piece of plexi from the hole saw. If you dont then you will have trouble drilling through the wood protion of the top panel.

As for plexi being fragile, I havent experienced this myself yet. I cut the general shape on a table saw, use a drill press for drilling, widen the hole from 1-1/8" to 30mm with a sanding drum, and have even used a metal file to remove a rectangle in the center of a plexi sheet. I have never had any problem with it through out the 3 stick I have made. You just have to make sure that its supported enoungh so it doesnt have the chance to crack.

[hanz0]

or do it the ghetto way like i did, put a little bit of silicone to hold them buttons to the wood. using snap ins obiously:wink: