Dreamcast problem with modded X-Arcade

[BlackBond]

I came across a $80 X-Arcade Dual a while back and decided to pick it up. It worked fine with my Xbox and DC So I then decided to mod it with two IL Euro Sticks and Happs competition Push buttons. For some reason after the Mod it no longer works on Dreamcast. When I plug it into the adapter the red light goes on meaning that the Stick is plugged into an adapter. But the Sticks and buttons don't work. I have no idea why the stick works fine on the xbox but not at all on the DC.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa167/BlackB0nd/10.jpg?t=1202174822

When I modified the stick I removed the button 2 buttons on each side. These buttons are not buttons on the DC and on the xbox they register as L and R. I didn't see the need for the extra buttons so I removed them. I cut them out and used the extra wire to rewire the IL Euro Sticks. I'm thinking that removing the 2 buttons on each side might be the problem. But why would removing buttons that don't register on a DC gamepad affect anything? Why would it stop the sticks from moving as well? Yet it still works fine on xbox.

If anyone has anything helpful I greatly appreciate it. I used your forums to get know how on how to customize and build sticks. The X-Arcade is just the beginning.

I'd greatly appreciate any help. Just as long as its not throw that garbage stick away lol

[ShinAkuma204]

This may sound like a silly question, but is your adapter set to joystick and not steering wheel?

[BlackBond]

This may sound like a silly question, but is your adapter set to joystick and not steering wheel?
Are you talking about that switch thing in the back? I tried it on every setting. I'll double check and try again.

[ulovemikeroch]

Something has to be wrong with the DC adaptor itself I guess, even though it sends a signal maybe its not sending a switch signal. Also, why would you remove the side buttons and use those to rewire the stick? Just use the original 4 that they give you.

[BlackBond]

Something has to be wrong with the DC adaptor itself I guess, even though it sends a signal maybe its not sending a switch signal. Also, why would you remove the side buttons and use those to rewire the stick? Just use the original 4 that they give you.
Some of the wiring wasn't exactly long enough. So I used to extra wire on the connects that require to wires to be crimped onto one microswitch.

I guess something must be wrong with the DC Adapter. As it works fine with the xbox.

[ulovemikeroch]

Though they say that their sticks are indestructible, the quality of their adapters suck. On mine the Serial cable part of the adapter gets disconnected even if it's pushed down slightly or if it's at an angle.

[BlackBond]

Though they say that their sticks are indestructible, the quality of their adapters suck. On mine the Serial cable part of the adapter gets disconnected even if it's pushed down slightly or if it's at an angle.

When it does that does the RED Light on it turn off to signal that its disconnecting or does it stay red all the time?

[ulovemikeroch]

When it does that does the RED Light on it turn off to signal that its disconnecting or does it stay red all the time?

If it's disconnected the power gets disconnected too so yeah.

[BlackBond]

If it's disconnected the power gets disconnected too so yeah.
Interesting. My Red light remains on but the Joystick remains unresponsive. Maybe I should give X-Arcade an email.

[BlackBond]

Emailed X-Arcade. They sent me a replacement adapter and told me to tell them what happens. The new one works fine. So I guess it was a problem with the adapter.

[ulovemikeroch]

Emailed X-Arcade. They sent me a replacement adapter and told me to tell them what happens. The new one works fine. So I guess it was a problem with the adapter.

Alright, good thing it was just an adapter problem. Also, I live right outside of philly, we should get some games on.

[KOAB]

Does the IL Eurostick swap in with no extra work besides switching to .25" QDs? I already replaced the buttons on mine, but I was thinking of swapping the sticks down the line and maybe closing up the two bottom buttons.

[BlackBond]

Does the IL Eurostick swap in with no extra work besides switching to .25" QDs? I already replaced the buttons on mine, but I was thinking of swapping the sticks down the line and maybe closing up the two bottom buttons.

The IL Eurostick swaps right in. Just remove the stock X-Arcade Sticks and put in the IL Euro Sticks. You have to rewire though. The IL Euro uses 22 Gauge Quick Disconnects while the stock X-Arcade use smaller connects. So after installing the stick you have to cut the ends of the wires off and replace the connects with the new connects.

So after unplugging the wires from the X-Arcade sticks and removing them. I cut off the ends and used a wire crimper for the 22 Gauge Quick Disconnects. Put in the IL Euro's, connect the switches and boom you're done.

The Happs buttons and IL Euro's are a lot better. There really is not going back.

[BlackBond]

Alright, good thing it was just an adapter problem. Also, I live right outside of philly, we should get some games on.

I live in Newtown which is in Buckscounty.

[EvilSamurai]

does it hgave the default xarcade pcb in it? If so, then swap it out for a ps1 pad and use a converter as xarcades do all kinds of weird shit and lag a lot.

[EVAWINGZERO]

I never really have experienced ANY lag with my X-arcade on my dreamcast. I admit that there is a little on the Playstation especially with MVC2. The Side Buttons Toggle between the D-Pad and Joystick on the controller with the adapter for dreamcast.

[KOAB]

I live in Newtown which is in Buckscounty.

I got family who live in Newtown. Lot of big houses around there, not much else.

[ulovemikeroch]

I live in Newtown which is in Buckscounty.

I only live 30 minutes away from you.

[BlackBond]

I got family who live in Newtown. Lot of big houses around there, not much else.

Well what else would you find in Suburbia :rofl:

[BlackBond]

I only live 30 minutes away from you.
Not bad. Maybe over summer or something we could catch some games.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa167/BlackB0nd/4.jpg?t=1202747902

Here was my collection last summer its expanded a lot more since.

[ulovemikeroch]

Haha sweet, You're pretty much into both franchises, but I'm more a SF guy. But CVS2 will solve that problem.

[BlackBond]

does it hgave the default xarcade pcb in it? If so, then swap it out for a ps1 pad and use a converter as xarcades do all kinds of weird shit and lag a lot.
Yes wierd crap does happen and its annoying. I do want to swap out the PCB but I'm a nervous noob about doing so. X-Arcade has been my test guinea pig for stick building as it affords you tons of errors. Its basically my learning experience. But since its a dual wouldn't I need two PCB's? I'm really nervous about soldering or whatever I have to do. But after I complete it I probably will delve into make a lot of sticks. I wish there was someone in my area that could do this for me or give me hands on step by step help. Just reading guides and following them is nerve racking some of the time because you get no immediate feed back :sweat:

[BlackBond]

I'd also like to put some artwork on the it. But what can you get to fit the entire front of this big thing? and how does one get the wholes through the clear plastic sheets? I imagine some tool or something. Essentially meaning something I have no access too. I wish I could just ship this off and have someone else do it :rofl:

Oh and I'm looking at the custom stick thread. I see people with most of their sticks having PS1 cables. But I also seen sticks that have those computer cables in the back with the metal connector that has the ends twist things. Essentially I need to know the best options and I'm searching for an X-Arcade Mod thread now.

[ulovemikeroch]

Modding it is not so hard, just get rid of the PCB by removing the quickdisconnects, and getting QDed PCB's and reapplying them. You can buy already QDed PCBs here so it's pretty easy. Just a hassle. Artwork you can vinyl stickers or whatever from mamemarques I think.

[BlackBond]

Modding it is not so hard, just get rid of the PCB by removing the quickdisconnects, and getting QDed PCB's and reapplying them. You can buy already QDed PCBs here so it's pretty easy. Just a hassle. Artwork you can vinyl stickers or whatever from mamemarques I think.
Aren't the quick disconnects the things that plug into the buttons and the stick itself? And isn't a PCB the metal circuit board of a controller? And what's a QDed PCBs?

:wasted::wasted::wasted:

[BlackBond]

I want to modify it further by removing the PCB and putting in my own. Problem is I have no idea how seeing as how this is a dual stick. Does it just mean I do the same thing twice?

I see arcade sticks in the Custom thread that don't just use PS1 PCB's I see other things like these.

http://www.geocities.com/bonusdata/analyzer/mdb_interface/usb_connector.jpg
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31dIVg9ddDL._AA280_.jpg

I'm confused as hell. I've been reading the guides and gettings some ideas. But if anyone knows of a hands on X-Arcade Dual guide or anything like that I'd greatly appreciate it.

[KOAB]

I want to modify it further by removing the PCB and putting in my own. Problem is I have no idea how seeing as how this is a dual stick. Does it just mean I do the same thing twice?

I see arcade sticks in the Custom thread that don't just use PS1 PCB's I see other things like these.

I'm confused as hell. I've been reading the guides and gettings some ideas. But if anyone knows of a hands on X-Arcade Dual guide or anything like that I'd greatly appreciate it.

Here's how it works. Ready?

There are two ways that are most commonly used in order for a stick to be used on multiple systems. For the sake of arguments, let's always assume it's two systems.

Type one: Dual PCBs inside the box, swappable cord. For argument's sake I'm going to use PS1 and Xbox 360, since that's what I'm currently building.


Buttons -> Barrier Strips -> 360 PCB -> DB-9 Connector -> X360 Wire to system
........................................\ -> PS1 PCB->..................................\ -> PS1 Cable to system


At the DB-9 connector, there are 9 pins, hence the name DB-9. The PS1 controller requires the use of 7 pins, and the 360 (and other USB devices) use 4. However, both types can share 2 pins, which are the +3.3v/+5v and the ground. So in my case, I'm wiring up the 5 non-shared PS1 wires to the top 5 pins, and then the shared wires to the first two pins in the bottom row. Then I'm wiring the 360's shared two wires to the first two pins in the bottom row, followed by the two non-shared wires into the next two pins. That way, when I switch the cable off, the PS1s non-shared wires won't ever interact with the 360's cord, and therefore won't interact with the 360 system and vice versa.

Type two: Project Box


Buttons--->Barrier Strips--->DB-25 connector--->DB-25 cable--->PS1 PCB in Project Box--->PS1 System
.................................................. .....................................\--->360 PCB in Project Box--->360 System


Basically this one works very similar the one above, but now the PCBs are externalized and are in line with the cords. Basically, all the buttons are wired up to a DB-25 connector. And then you have the male DB-25 connector to go the corresponding leads on the PCB.

[BlackBond]

So which route would you recommend taking? Which is the best meaning produces the least lag. And which is the most difficult to do.

I just went to Radio Shack and picked up a Rosin Core Solder. So all I need now is to gut two PS1 controllers correct?

[BlackBond]

That above stuff looks greek. I'm gonna have to go study the faq threads some more.