The Official Custom Arcade Sticks Thread

[zapatistab]

I was advised by Armad to disconnect the DC gound, and if the PS works then I would have to add a slide swith or toggle switch. To go from PS to DC.

I will try this method, but I will take any advise.

I pretty much wired the two PCB's identical. As basic as possible. Both PCB's have one Ground, and I used barrier strips so I only have one wire directly connected to the microswitches, and the PCB's are connected to the barrier strip. The PS PSB was working fine until I added the DC PCB.

[ShinHed]

What Amrad said sounds good.

[Angry Black]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO



Before I answer this question, I would like to say what's up to everyone who still post in this thread. I'm finally in Okinawa, Japan and enjoying it for now. Haven't really been anywhere yet, but I plan to in the next 4 months (after I come back from deployment)

A: Only way is to get a hold of a used spring from someone that is willing to trade it for a new spring (yours) to break in. Other than that, just keep playing. Get a feel for it.

i have an old arcade stick but is there a site that would explain how to change the spring?

[TheSquelched]

Well, finally finished my stick. Pictures!

Picture One (http://img40.exs.cx/img40/6784/pic127.jpg)

and....

Picture Two (http://img19.exs.cx/img19/9880/pic116.jpg)

Yeah, its a RO box... I suck at woodworking, so there.

I wanted to put in the Ultimarc J-Stick, so I followed armadillo's tutorial on modeverything.com. And the buttons are Happ competition buttons. The whole thing went pretty smoothly, except that the RO box (the one with the PCB and plexiglass) came with all the wrong crimp connectors attached.

[zapatistab]

Does anyone have any suggestions for an arcade stick casing.

I do not have the time to build my own, I was wondering if anyone has used anything purchased over the counter. I have PCB stick and buttons, I just want something sturdy that I can drill holes into.

[illu]

Quick question: how much (approximately) would the shipping costs be if I ordered one Happ Competition stick + 10 buttons straight from happcontrols.com? I live in Finland.

Any help is appreciated.

[zapatistab]

Quick question: how much (approximately) would the shipping costs be if I ordered one Happ Competition stick + 10 buttons straight from happcontrols.com? I live in Finland.

Any help is appreciated.

Find out what carrier they use, then go to that carriers website and use their shipping calculator. I'm not sure if TAX & Duty fees apply for items coming out of the U.S. But I know they apply for stuff coming into the U.S. Try EBAY.

[illu]

Thanks. Seems like I'm gonna save quite a lot if I buy that stuff from eBay... :) (Not really sure if I'm even gonna make a custom stick tho.)

[ComboMasher]

I bought some RO boxes a few weeks ago and for me it was the best option. I made 2 so it was $40 flat cuz of free shipping and had to put a 2 hours or so of work into them with an additonal $10 or so on extra supplies to fix em up.

Personally, I don't know if they shipped em wrong but my cases came with plexi, 8 buttons, a PCB, and the bottom part of the joystick. So I ripped out all that junk and was left with the actual box with some ugly plexi and trim.

The trim was easily removed, but the adhesive was a pain. Didn't try Goo Gone as some have stated on the boards, but if it's around $5-7 a bottle, it'd be well worth it especially if it's on 2 boxes. I just had to use plain ol' elbow grease.

The plexi had a few more things wrong with it, ugly RO paint, scratched up and plexi wasn't sitting on the box right when they drilled the holes. Taking advice from amad1ll0, I used 91% Isopropyl alchohol to take off the paint (make sure to let it sit for a min or two, and can be bought at the local pharmacy for like a buck), then used some plastic polish to remove the surface scratches and scuffs (bought at an auto parts store, ask for stuff to fix up convertible tops), and lastly used some sandpaper my dad had lying around to widen the holes a bit in certain areas so that the buttons would fit when placed right.

I'm pretty happy about how they came out and I'd recommend it to anyone who wants a "budget" box.
same thing happened to me. I ordered an empty Ro box with joystick and buttons. They sent me a full put together ps2 stick. So i had to rip everything out and solder the buttons to the dc PCB. Quality stick though.

[zapatistab]

I have two Happ Ultimate Sticks for sale. I know Ultimates are the least desireable, but I'm not using them or going to use them. One Stick is brand new and the other was used for a week, then I swapt it with a Comp Stick. So it is pretty much like new. I have four Concave buttons (Not Happ) Two Green and Two Red. I know it's not enough for a project, but the buttons are new and are just sitting in my tool box. $25 Shipped, sticks and buttons. I prefer Paypal, makes things easy. I have an Ebay account. (Same user name) I haven't sold alot of stuff but my seller and buyer feedback is excellent. U.S. buyers only, thanks.

P.M. if your interested.

[GreatLlama]

I have received a email from Rotendo and just wanted to let you all know that he is doing well and is probably not going to be able to post for a while because he is being deployed out to the middle east sometime soon. If you have anything you want to say to him ill forward your responses to him. Hes currently on ship somewhere so his internet connection is really slow.

[Shin Ace]

My best wishes go out to Rotendo.

[gaijin]

Though I don't know him personally, I also extend my sincerest regards. His website and this thread two invaluable sources, and he's got much more to learn and teach.

Godspeed Rotendo. May you come home safely.

[armad1ll0]

stay safe soldier...

[Dreaded Fist]

Make it back safely, Rodolfo.

[edmondantes]

I've got two sticks. One of them is built so that i would have to reconfigure buttons to play dc, the other is built so that i would have to reconfigure buttons to play ps2. What's the deal?

[NintendoKing]

For a lesser extent, besides the P360 what is the best stick to buy.

[DarkChylde]

Most people prefer competition sticks if not some type of japanese stick.

[NintendoKing]

Most people prefer competition sticks if not some type of japanese stick.

hmmm... thanks.

I think i'm gonna check out the p360 though

[illu]

A couple of questions.

I've ordered Happ Competition parts, and I'm gonna make a stick with only 5 buttons (plus start & select of course). So if I don't need L1, L2 and R2, I don't solder anything to those parts of the PCB...? Leave 'em empty, right?

I bought a MadCatz digital PsOne pad, should that be okay? The cord is a bit short but I bought a extension cable too so that's not gonna be a problem.

I'm using a 15mm (0.591") plate for the box. How high (/deep) should the box be so that the stick fits in it? 3.5"...4"? I wanna make the box as low as possible. Also, is the restrictor (right term?) square or round shaped in the Competition stick? Cause I wanna know if should drill a round or a square hole for the stick...

[controlcommerce]

I solder a pad for the first time yesterday and I have a quick question. After you finish soldering, is it a good idea to put glue (of some sort) on the connection to help give it an extra hold? I see that Snaake does it with his sticks. Is it good or bad? If good, that's the best to use? If bad, it their another way to give it a better bond?

[zapatistab]

I solder a pad for the first time yesterday and I have a quick question. After you finish soldering, is it a good idea to put glue (of some sort) on the connection to help give it an extra hold? I see that Snaake does it with his sticks. Is it good or bad? If good, that's the best to use? If bad, it their another way to give it a better bond?

As long as your soldering is good it should be enough.

I only use solder and connectors and I never have a problem with anyrhing disconnectiong. The only soldering experience I have is basic electronics in High School, and that was a long time ago.

Unless your a neat freak, extra solder will hold it for as long as you own the stick.

[Shin Ace]

Most pads will have a few 1/4" holes you can thread the wires thru when you're done soldering. Just fill the hole with hot glue, that'll take the stress of when you're manipulating the wire.

If you cover the soldered part, you're screwed if/when it breaks. You have to do a LOT of clean up just to solder a new wire in place.

[illu]

Another stick question.

The mounting view for the Competition stick (http://www.happcontrols.com/images/50/5060701x_mounting.gif) says the part that goes under the upper plate is
5.75" - 3.66" = 2.09"

And when I'm using 0.59" plate, the total height of the stick could be
2.09" + 0.59" + 0.59" = 3.27"

IS THIS CORRECT?

PS. Thanks for THE BEST custom stick thread on the web.

EDIT: I'll use two Happ start/select buttons (yes, the white ones with those little dudes on them). How big does the hole have to be for them?? I know the regular Comp buttons/stick require 1 1/8", but I don't know about these smaller white buttons...

[DarkChylde]

All your holes should be 1 1/8" including buttons.

[illu]

For ALL the buttons...? I am NOT using Competition buttons for start and select, but these (http://i23.ebayimg.com/02/i/02/30/d3/ad_1.JPG) instead. And I think they're smaller.

[gaijin]

Horizontal, Competition, and Ultimate pushbuttons all have the exact same diameter. I've used all three kinds, and can verify this. Not to mention that Happ's website has detailed diagrams of all these button types, complete with measurements. :P

[illu]

They don't have diagrams of the "player 1-4" buttons...

[gaijin]

Yes. They do. The 1-4 Player buttons are just white Horizontal Pushbuttons with a graphic. ;)

[illu]

Okay, thanks.

[ComboMasher]

Ok. I bought a newer Madcatz DC controller. Does anyone know how many grounds this thing has? IS there one ground for the buttons and 1 ground for the directionals? And help and pics would be really great. thanks

[Shin Ace]

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67415

second last post.

[ComboMasher]

Thanks. I hacked the new ,adcatz today and got a p360 to work on it. It works real good. And alot easy to solder on since it has solder points unlike the DC pad.

[lw3]

i want peoples opinoin of this layout for my joystick. All crticism is welcolm. Also does any one has a joystick template similar to how the buttons on the sega agetec stick. Thank you

http://img38.exs.cx/img38/3730/sf11.jpg

[zapatistab]

I just picked up Redoctane's SoulCaliber stick.($15)I'm going to use the case for a Dreamcast stick.

Does anybody know an alternative for button plugs? I only need about 2-3. Haven't decided layout yet. I know Happ carries them, but I know I can't just order 2 or 3.

Like I said I will be using this for a Dreamcast Stick so I will have some holes to fill. I thought about covering the holes with Art and Plexi, but I like my sticks plain with no Art and Plexi. Thanks

[flocinauc]

I've been reading this thread for the past week now like 3 or 4 hours everyday afterwork (thats all the free time i have since i work 6 days a week 10 hours a day). There have been so many changes in PCBs that I figured i'd just ask my question here. A lot of the PCBs I see being suggested are becoming hard or impossible to find.

I've built 3 2-player boxes for myself and my kids. I wanted to ask what would be the recommended PCB for each of these types of sticks:

1) XBOX live compatible stick (not using p360)
2) Universal stick (not using p360)
3) XBOX live compatible stick (using p360)
4) Universal stick (using p360)

[zapatistab]

I just picked up Redoctane's SoulCaliber stick.($15)I'm going to use the case for a Dreamcast stick.

Does anybody know an alternative for button plugs? I only need about 2-3. Haven't decided layout yet. I know Happ carries them, but I know I can't just order 2 or 3.

Like I said I will be using this for a Dreamcast Stick so I will have some holes to fill. I thought about covering the holes with Art and Plexi, but I like my sticks plain with no Art and Plexi. Thanks

Never mind. The person I get my buttons and joysticks from is gonna start selling hole plugs. Thanks

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

What's up my SRK people! Hello to any new builders and all that other stuff. It's kinda rough over here in the desert, but I'll be alright. I can't wait to get back to Oki, then the states. I wasn't expecting to get sent to the 'sandbox' this early! Though I'm really excited about it!! Been working out and playing my Game Boy Advance in my offtime. Well, laterz for now. Take care, I'll be back with building when I get back to Oki. I plan to buy a few cabs and some japanese parts.

[ReakHavok]

I am new to building my own sticks and i have a few questions maybe you all can help me with...
where do i get the clear plastic template to put on top of the artwork of my stick? how do i get that piece of plastic?
what programs do i use to make my own artwork come together?
what kind of paper do i need for the artwork that goes on top of my stick? where do i get it? also i hear that i can take demensions to home depot and they will make the cabinet for me...is that true? if so...what are those dimensions? for a regular stick?

[armad1ll0]

1) There's no template. You need to figure out where you personly like the buttons. There's the common Capcom six on the 1&5/8" rectangular grid and the arc shaped asymetric japanese layout. You'll have to copy a japanese stick to get that layout.

2) drill all your holes into standardized .0925 lexan or acrylic.

3) Use photoshop to put together your artwork.

4) Search the forums to find out answers to these very common questions

[GaijinPunch]

First post... glad to be here, all that.
I've recently gotten sucked into the world of modding my stick. I was pointed here by another user at the Assembler forums... there's quite a bit of info here.

Anyways, I'm looking to doing two more mods to my DC Arcade Stick, and I'm not sure how to go about one of them. I want to remove the metal cover, and have a printed design. I assume I could only use one very thin piece of lexam, and the print, on something other than paper. I think the big problem will be cutting the plexiglass. I've read comments on getting a whole cutter, which I can swing, but the rounded edges would be a pain in the ass I think.... I'm moving back to the states soon, and will be able to pick up tools easier, but still won't have a garage. :(

Throw some thoughts at me.

[Player Unknown]

I wanna take apart my Agetec Dreamcast stick and my Universal Pelican stick. My plan is to make one truly universal arcade stick...

Is it possible???

[kbtoyz902]

Here's my first custom stick with a Sony Dualshock 2 "A" controller. I made myself a custom DDR mat a long time ago, so I just applied the same ideas I used then, for this, and even some of the same wood. I know the buttons are awfully close and that there's not room for the palm to rest on. I never realized that I needed allowance inside for buttons and stuff untill it was too late. And the plexi is cracked as you can see :( It works pretty well, and I have one just like it that's almost done, I just need to PS some artwork for it. Any comments or criticisms welcome.

BTW I have some questions. I was gonna make another dual one with better craftmanship and all that. I'm thinking of using convex buttons, and possibly a ball joystick, but definately convex buttons. Well my question is should I have 6 or 8 action buttons(not counting start and select)? and Is the ball joystick and convex buttons a good choice, or should I just use the same stuff as I did this one. Thanks for looking.

http://pics.montypics.com/kbtoyz902/2004-09-22/1095907504_DSC02637.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/kbtoyz902/2004-09-22/1095907530_DSC02636.jpg

[SpiffyShoes]

Wow, not bad for you’re first stick. Looks like you need more practice drilling the plexi. I can't say I'm perfect at it but I've been practicing drilling plexi for the past week and have found that if you run the drill at a high speed it cracks the way yours has but if you drill at a lower speed it comes out looking real nice. Plexi is a real pain to drill in though and it takes time.

[CrotchMonkey]

i was wondering, which button would everyone recommend to buy from happcontrols?

because everyone just says happ comp buttons but on the site it shows ultimate pushbutton with microswitch and one that says pushbutton with horizontal microswitch.

keep in mind im planning on modding a pelican universal... so which button is top for the pelican and what are the differences anyways?


also whats the lifetime with the buttons you guys recommend? will i be able to mash on them or will i have to be soft on them?

[trabus]

I put some competetion buttons in my pelican and I really like them.
http://www.trabusproject.com/images/pelican.jpg

here's the competitions
http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/5896xxl.htm

[CrotchMonkey]

yeah i figured they were the most popular but i would really want to know the difference is between the comp and the other ones on the site (not to mention durability etc.).

since you now have the comp buttons, what do they feel like as opposed to the default pelican buttons? softer? how are they better?

[trabus]

They're definitely softer/smoother, and they don't feel cheap like the pelicans. The pelicans feel really loose to me, and they make a lot more noise (not the microswitch, the button itself). I actually kept the same microswitches because they still work just fine, and I didn't want to resolder anything.

[CrotchMonkey]

wait microswitches? oh crap now im lost.. so the microswitches in the pelican are fine but the happ comp buttons are hands down better?

are there differences in microswitches?

[kbtoyz902]

"and have found that if you run the drill at a high speed it cracks the way yours has but if you drill at a lower speed it comes out looking real nice"

I found this to be true after drilling a second one. I also found out finding a way to secure it, using a clamp or something heavy make a huge difference.

[DarkChylde]

wait microswitches? oh crap now im lost.. so the microswitches in the pelican are fine but the happ comp buttons are hands down better?

are there differences in microswitches?

Sometimes the metal piece is a different size and if you use quick disconnects that will matter, but if you solder it shouldn't. Other than that sometimes microswitches might come in diff size, not totally sure. But yes, competition buttons feel so much better than Pelican buttons.

[trabus]

The microswitches can be detatched from the buttons. This is so you can replace them if they die. The pelican stock microswitches were working fine, so I used them instead of the ones that come with the competition buttons.

Just get the damn competition buttons already. I promise you won't be disappointed. ;)

[CrotchMonkey]

hehe alright, so i take it the comp buttons are the best the happcontrols site has to offer?

wait one more question, will the buttons die out pretty fast if i mash them? like will they become stiff if i play hardcore on them or do i have to treat them like babies?

and if they do become stiff, its the microswitch i need to switch up right?

[trabus]

I haven't had mine for long enough to know from personal experience how mashing affects them, but from what I've read they are pretty durable and will withstand years of mashing pretty easily.

If a button becomes stiff, I'd assume it usually is because you got some gunk in the button shaft or something (say you spill a soda on your buttons and the dirt sticks to the soda, making gunk). If its not responding when you press it, then its the microswitch that you need to replace.

[CrotchMonkey]

ohhh ok, i always thought the button wears out and becomes stiff through hardcore smashing so i always went gentle on my pelican heh

[trabus]

Well, I suppose the springs could wear out too, but the Happ springs are definitely better than the ones in the pelican.

[SpiffyShoes]

"and have found that if you run the drill at a high speed it cracks the way yours has but if you drill at a lower speed it comes out looking real nice"

I found this to be true after drilling a second one. I also found out finding a way to secure it, using a clamp or something heavy make a huge difference.

Wow, you weren't using a clamp? I'm surprised the plexi didn't completely shatter. Yeah a C-clamp or something is a good idea.

[CrotchMonkey]

one last thing, whats the difference between the comp buttons and the other ones on the site?

btw thanks a lot guys especially trabus for answering my questions

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

hehe alright, so i take it the comp buttons are the best the happcontrols site has to offer?

wait one more question, will the buttons die out pretty fast if i mash them? like will they become stiff if i play hardcore on them or do i have to treat them like babies?

and if they do become stiff, its the microswitch i need to switch up right?


My first post in the Middle East!! The answer to your question is no. They will not become 'stiff', pretty much the opposite. They will get worn in. The only thing that you'll have to replace is maybe the microswitches. My friends and I mash the shit out of my sticks and arcade setups and never had any problems with them. It took a while until the red switch lost its 'spring'.

[LimeGreenNinja]

where can i purchase a harder spring for my happ competition stick?? Right now i have the spring that came with my joystick and it's very loose. I've tried tightening it but it's a lost cause, i'd rather just save myself the trouble and buy a new spring. I'd like it to have the stiffness of a p360 or a brand new MAS so recommendations on which spring to buy (if there even are variations) would also be appreciated :D.

thanks for the help

[oldskool33]

where can i purchase a harder spring for my happ competition stick?? Right now i have the spring that came with my joystick and it's very loose. I've tried tightening it but it's a lost cause, i'd rather just save myself the trouble and buy a new spring. I'd like it to have the stiffness of a p360 or a brand new MAS so recommendations on which spring to buy (if there even are variations) would also be appreciated :D.

thanks for the help

They're called heavy springs, and you can buy them off of happs' site. (Item # 95-1309-01). I put one into my competition stick and it feels pretty nice. They're only $0.43, but the shipping comes to $5... so you might consider buying some other spare parts from them for future use as to save yourself possibly some shipping in the future.

[zapatistab]

Anyone ever hook up a Dreamcast Arcade Stick to a Neo Geo Cd System. I know there are PS2 to Neo Geo controller adapters, but my button layout on my custom Dreamcast stick is similiar to the Neo Geo sticks. And that is the stick I would like to use. Please any advice would help. Thanks.

[tigerhobs]

I'm just curious, has anyone here ever made a custom joystick out of a wooden tv tray? Just curious.

[Tritoch]

Ok, I've only just read the first page of this awesome thread, so I was wondering,

Should I make my own awesome stick box for my PS2 out of older "solder free" 3rd party PS pads? Or just shell out the money for a 3rd party stick? What would be cheaper?

I want the there to be at least 2 sticks, what good is your own stick when your comp is playing on a pad?

HOOK ME UP. Damn I'm psyced.

[Tritoch]

Also, someone, anybody, PLEASE Make a "Wiring your old PS Controller to make a arcade stick" guide! PLEASE! There might already be one, but I wasen't about to spend time looking thru the 100 or so pages this thread is.

[oldskool33]

The links on the first page are really helpful. Best to check out those first... going into wiring even when you know how it works is already confusing enough, don't make it worse on yourself.

As to your question between making the stick versus buying a 3rd party one... making your own stick will be either cheaper, or better quality at the same price. But, it'll also require much more work, especially if it's your first.

[oldskool33]

Thought I'd post up a pic of a joystick I made for a friend about a month ago. Redoctane wasn't selling any more boxes, so I sawed and glued one together from an old ping pong table laying around the garage. Not the most appealing visually, but feels/plays pretty good. (pic is kind of big.)

[vaioman]

Will a happ hard spring fit in an agetec dc joystick, or do I have to order a different type? In the 8 or 9/47 pages I've read, I didn't see anything, and I don't feel like reading any more. Also, how loose are competition joysticks out of the box?

[Shin Ace]

Thought I'd post up a pic of a joystick I made for a friend about a month ago. Redoctane wasn't selling any more boxes, so I sawed and glued one together from an old ping pong table laying around the garage. Not the most appealing visually, but feels/plays pretty good. (pic is kind of big.)

OMG, you win the thread!!!

That's what I call custom.

[Tritoch]

Thanks, I've read thru half the thread (Only took me a day!) and realized I was being a bit foolish, it's well worth the read, and as of now,

2 player arcade stick goodness here I come!

(now if I could only find some comp where I live!)

[Tritoch]

OOOOooookkkk. Read the WHOLE thing. Here is where I need help,

I want a old school layout, but what if I ever need L1 and L2? Should I just scrape the old school true look and go for adding all the buttons?

Should I make 2 single boxes, or one 2 player box? (I'm leaning toward the 2 player box for true arcade feel, nothing says "arcade" like your hand "slipping" and wacking the other guys buttons when he hogs the console)

Can I use Wal-Mart "Digital PSX controller" by mad katz for a solder free hook up? (I don't belive a guide to solder free hook up was given) If not thats fine, as long as it will work? (They are like 4.99 a peice)

I'm new to soldering, so I'll probably start "practicing" on and old eff'ed up 3rd party pad I have, if I don't screw it up, then great, but if it goes wrong, no skin off my back.

If all these get answered or get some opinions, I'm done, and can start making my box!

(I already feel like a pro after reading this whole thread, can't wait for reality to smack me in the face when I really try to DO it.)

Thanks in advance.

[trabus]

I'd go to EB games and get a grey dualshock psone controller. You might need to call around to a few stores before you find one, but its worth it. I got mine for $5, and it works great.

[Tritoch]

I'd go to EB games and get a grey dualshock psone controller. You might need to call around to a few stores before you find one, but its worth it. I got mine for $5, and it works great.
Yeah, no thanks, I'm not going to hook up any other system to my stick, so why on earth would I screw around with that stupid 1st party crap for no reason? And why Dual Shock? You don't even use the analog!!!

I'd rather it be a easy solder job that does the same thing.

[armad1ll0]

on my website i give some basic info on wiring the Sony digital and dual shock "h" series. You'll have to read through everything as it's setup for a more skilled user to figure out stuff but the wire leads are kinda shown on some pictures and stuff posted.

[trabus]

The reason I used a dualshock was for compatability with converters, but if you don't plan on using it with any converters then I guess its a moot point.
Really though, its not that hard. I hacked mine without even touching a soldering iron.

http://www.trabusproject.com/images/joystick/joystick_inside.jpg

[Tritoch]

I might have to try that, Never touched a soldering iron eh? I didn't mean to sound harsh, I'm just looking for the most simple and best way to do it with my kind of skill (Newbie).

Thanks, I'll check em out, in fact, I might already have 3!

[trabus]

I'm a total n00b too, so I understand. :)

All you have to do is carefully seperate the ribbon off of the secondary pcb (the one that the buttons and directional pad press against) and split each of the wires apart very carefully with a SHARP exacto knife. If you work behind a small lamp, you can see the shadows of the wires in the ribbon. Just cut between them to seperate them. You'll also want to split the ribbon down the middle so you can position 8 wires on each side. Then use 1/16" shrink tube to insulate and strengthen the wires (you can use a hair dryer to shrink the tubing) so you won't have to worry about your wires shorting if any are exposed. Then get two 8 position barrier strips from Radio Shack (around $2.50 each) and hook up your wires. If you don't already have a soldering iron, its quite a bit cheaper than getting a good soldering iron setup.

I'll try and get some better pictures and post them later tonight.

[Tritoch]

Hey trabus, where are them pics man! I'd like to see how this was done.

[trabus]

Aw crap, I forgot to do that. Sorry, my wife was on my ass to clean the basement last night, so I didn't get around to it. :\

If you can make it out, its shown in the picture here-
http://www.trabusproject.com/images/joystick/joystick_inside.jpg

I'll try to remember to get some more detailed pics tonight.

[Tritoch]

Very cool!

(I see I'm not the only one thats married on this site... "Why didn't you at least clean the dishes?"...."Uh, I was playing 3s?")

[vaioman]

I have this psx dual shock I'm trying to use to build a stick, and my friend told me that I could solder to the copper points that I circled. Is this right? Then just use one of the ground spots for that? Thanks for any help.

[oldskool33]

I have this psx dual shock I'm trying to use to build a stick, and my friend told me that I could solder to the copper points that I circled. Is this right? Then just use one of the ground spots for that? Thanks for any help.

Those spots would work, but I personally prefer to scrape off the black carbon covering the spots under the actual buttons, and solder on the exposed copper underneath there (since those spots are much bigger). If you do that, you'd probably need a multimeter handy to make sure you know which trace is the ground and which is the one for the specific button.

[vaioman]

Yeah I want this to be as easy as possible, so I guess the bigger spots will be a better choice. Thanks.

One more question I didn't see an answer to in this thread(although I might have missed it). I've got some old Cat5 cables lying around, would the wires from inside them be sufficient?

[nmbr1krush]

Question.....I have all my wires soldered to my points on the pcb. Everything works fine except every once and a while a wire will disconnect from the pcb. Then I would have to resolder. If I put hot glue on the connections after they were soldered..would it still detect the buttons?

[kbtoyz902]

CAT5's work, and keep it very orgnanized, but be careful and make sure the wires that are soldered don't move a lot or they might break off due to the thinness.

[Tritoch]

My wife saw a old "Namco arcade" stick made for the PS1 at some resale shop, she got it for me and said, "It's exactlly what you wanted!!!"......"uh....thanks....."

It was only 10 bucks, so no biggie, even came in it's box. (Tekken fighters on the outside)

Well, one less PS1 controller I'll have to gut to make my own.

[SpiffyShoes]

Wow, thats awsome! Now all you need to do is put a sanwa flash stick in it and some sanwa buttons and your good to go.

[Tritoch]

I'm still gonna gut it! I want to make a 2 player custom job.
The case used to house the electronics is far to small, and moves all over the place when you play.

[SpiffyShoes]

You got one of these (http://www.toysnjoys.com/access_psx/souledgestick.jpg) sticks right? And your just going to gut it for the PCB? Oh, my. You know people pay allot for those on ebay.

[Tritoch]

Yeah, thats the one! Even came with the original (beat up) box! I'd rather sell it and get some sticks and/or buttons for my custom job.

[Tritoch]

Holy crap, I just found out how popular these sticks are!

[vaioman]

share some thoughts on this pic. A friend gave me some scraps so I figured I'd give them a shot before buying real wood.. the stuff feels sturdy enough. I'll have to use alot of nails/screws to hold the top to the base(which I have not designed yet) then probably find something to cover the top with, but I think it will be decent first stick material.

[SpiffyShoes]

Hey Tritoch, if you're still planing on gutting that Namco stick for the pcb I'll take the shell/case off your hands for a reasonable price.

[Tritoch]

Let me think about it, I'm not sure I'm gutting it anymore!

I have 2 A version controllers, but on them, one button does not register, does this mean my PCB button on that controller is fried? Or does that mean my plastic button is messed up? Would they maybe still work? any way to test this?

[freeway4885]

im still reading through this thread (page 71 so far) and ive finally decided to make my own stick. i havent started gathering up parts and such yet, but i have bought a pad. i bought a Sony Ps One Dual Shock controller (Model SCPH 110). The problem is that the X button works, but requires a very hard press, and L2 and R2 button dont work. Does that mean that those buttons on the PCB arent operational, or is it just the buttons itself on the pad arent hitting the points? either way, im not gonna be pissed about it because i paid 2 bucks for it.

[armad1ll0]

take it appart and try to "short the button's carbon pads to see if it still works on the PCB. They rarely go out there so it should something other than the PCB.

if the main chips are there with the analog sticks and the digital buttons are off on a ribbon cable then you can hack right to the back of the ribbon cable connector or to where the ribbon cable solders to the main board. these are high skill jobs though.

[freeway4885]

i cracked it open, and found it its not like any of the other dual shocks ive seen. the pcb is a thin sheet on a plastic board. i dont know what i can do with it now. heres the pic, any help would be appreciated.

[Shin Ace]

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73400

[dReW]

What size bolts are you people using for your sticks? I ordered an extra joystick from MAS and the nuts and bolts weren't included so I have to get some myself.

[fluxcore]

i cracked it open, and found it its not like any of the other dual shocks ive seen. the pcb is a thin sheet on a plastic board. i dont know what i can do with it now. heres the pic, any help would be appreciated.

I hacked one of these a long time ago, by soldering cat5 wires onto the solder side of the ribbon connector block. My god was that a pain in the ass, because cat5 is twisted, so none of the wires lined up, in the end they broke (I HATE cat5), despite the fact I used hot glue to try to keep them in place. I think I might have done it okay had I used multicore wires (but very thin ones...), but frankly it was more of an annoyance than was worthwhile. The thing kind of self destructed a couple of weeks ago, and I got frustrated and kind of broke the PCB traces. I suppose I could try soldering to the chip legs, but I think I'd rather find a 3rd party controller.

--flux

[yoogener]

props to rotendo and all of you joystickologist mentors. i am completely fresh to the art of joystick assembly. ha...k sorry that was lame. anyway, i hopefully got this down. so i should just have one continuous ground wire going through all the buttons n stick onto the PCB. soldering, cutting wood, screwing, testing, blah. i'm still trying to figure out the purpose for terminals and/or barrier strips. cause i see some with and some without. and i would like to know any basic voltage info. all i figured was 22 gauge wires for everything. replies greatly appreciated.

[nmbr1krush]

....i'm still trying to figure out the purpose for terminals and/or barrier strips. cause i see some with and some without. and i would like to know any basic voltage info. all i figured was 22 gauge wires for everything. replies greatly appreciated.

if you go the barrier strip routes..its alot more work. I made mine n my brothers with barriers strips. You'll need project boxes for the pcb and male n female 25pin terminals. I did it because I dont want to use converters for my ps2,dreamcast,and xbox. I just plug the project box in and play,that way I don't have to worry if the converter will map the buttons correctly. It also cost more than would be just soldering a cheap ps2 pcb n getting a converter. ..Now I just build all my other sticks with the simple ps2 pcb n buy a converter on ebay for my friends and sell to em for like 50-60 bucks. I also use 22 guage wire.

[yoogener]

so if i wanted to go with a DualShock 2 (using SpiffyShoes dualshock2 hacking method) i'm pretty much set? i dont need any barrier strips or terminals?

[freeway4885]

alright, i have another question. i want to make a stick for my saturn. does it matter whether i use a 3rd party pad for a pcb or the sega one. i plan on using the superpad 8, but im thinking about just buying the official saturn pad because those can be found for about as cheap. i just want to find the easiest one to work on.

[J-ride]

My latest stick, its a PS1 dual shock hack, comp stick and buttons. Trigun owns me btw.

[yoogener]

so i've decided to get a sanwa JLF-TP-8Y stick. but for the buttons, Happ Competitions or Sanwa? are there any big differences between those two brands?

[DarkChylde]

Yes, first off the shape is diff as Happ Competitions are dome shaped and sanwas are flat. Secondly, the Happs make clicking noises when pressed. And I think the hole sizes are slightly different.

[SpiffyShoes]

Like Dark Chylde said the main difference is that the Sanwas don't make a clicking noise. Although if you like the clicking noise Sanwa does make buttons with regular microswitches too. The Sanwa buttons are going to be harder to mount than the Happ since the Happ fit in a standard 29mm hole and Sanwa buttons require a 30mm hole.

[yoogener]

ok so i re-decided i wanna stick with a Happ Comp stick and Happ Comp buttons. but if i wanted to get sanwa buttons and that they look like clip-ons to me, how thick would the panel be for the button to clip on tightly?

[Tha-Darkside]

For sanwa clip-ons the panel should be around 1/8 inch, but for sanwa screw-ins you could get away with 1/4 inch, maybe a tiny bit more but I really wouldn't go past that.

[SpiffyShoes]

If you get the clip-ons you have to mount them on thin metal. If you are wanting to mount your buttons in wood because that is easier to drill and stuff then you need to get the Screw Type buttons. The Screw Type buttons will mount good with plexi on 1/4" thick MDF wood. Either use a router or chisel to bring your board down to 1/4" around where the buttons mount.

[yoogener]

any good sanwa parts links for a needy US citizen?

[CigarBoB]

Sure go to www.himuragames.com
He has a thread in this fourm. I dont think I have heard one bad word about him. and he is very fast.

[armad1ll0]

Sanwa clip ins are OPSF-30
Screw type are OPSN-30
The number is usually the size of the buttons in mm.
They also come in 24 mm
http://www.sanwa-d.co.jp/p_p-button3.htm

[yoogener]

Spill Your Guts

[Nash421]

Considering building / purchasing a japanese optical sanwa. I only have experience with building / modding happ 360's on MAS case.

What would be an ideal case for an optical sanwan to be played on the floor? I can't play SF with the stick on my lap, it doesn't feel too right. I'm looking at the Hori, and they seem small / light. Are those stable and heavy enuff for play on carpet, or are the only cases I can use RO.

Armad1llo, are you building sticks to sell still?

[SpiffyShoes]

I'm with you Nash, I can't stand having the sticks in my lap either. I have two Hori/Namco sticks that I'm in the process of modding with Sanwa P360's. Personally I think they are a little small for playing with them on the floor but they feel just perfect if you put them on a coffe table while you sit on the floor. I tend to use mine the most with them on my computer desk playing games through mame.

[armad1ll0]

Every once in a while I'll sell off a Hori stick that I've modified. I sold off a bunch of them recently. I have a SC2 and Black Tekken3 Hori that I've kept for myself. One's at work and one's at home. Once converted to take a JLF stick, the optical harness is a snap. 15 mins and they can be optical. I just paid someone for two Namcos and another SC2. I personally prefer the newer Hori bodies.

[Chromatic01]

I just bought a SC2 Hori Stick. and I love it. I was just asking for some advice on the most effective way to hold the stick. its seems difficult at times. i know i need to practice/break it in somemore. but doing things on the right side of the screen (2D/3D) seems hard for me. any tips, techniques, and advice would be cool.

[x_tremer]

Im gonna need a good xbox pcb now. Since i just ordered sfac for xbox

OK, Can anyone recon me a cheap, reliable, xbox controller that i can hack? (xlive headset compatable/no p360 needed)

edit: I might use the reflex stick, but i can't find it over here in stores, anyone know anywhere online to get this cheap?


thanks

[zapatistab]

Im gonna need a good xbox pcb now. Since i just ordered sfac for xbox

OK, Can anyone recon me a cheap, reliable, xbox controller that i can hack? (xlive headset compatable/no p360 needed)

edit: I might use the reflex stick, but i can't find it over here in stores, anyone know anywhere online to get this cheap?


thanks

Ebay they sell between $15-$20

[Nash421]

I need a PCB to wire a Sanwa Flash. It needs to be useable with an X-Box convertor tho. Anyone have a good pad that will work with an optical stick and x-box converter?

[DarkChylde]

A PS1 Dualshock should work fine. I have a P360 made and I'm using the Dreambox PS2 -> Xbox converter fine.

[ComboMasher]

Can someone help me with a problem I am having with my P360? Well first off I modded a P360 to a Madcatz DC controller. The buttons work fine, but the directional *to me* seemed to not work properly. The half circle movements dont come out 100% of the time, i have to press really hard for them to work. And I have the actuator set with the small diameter to the C clip, thats the right way for 8 way directional right? Can someone help me out? Thanks.

[mr.sagat]

My guess is the P360 is not getting all the power it needs. Get a voltmeter or multimeter and check the voltage it's getting. I have had mine get as little as 3.39 volts and work great. I have also had it not do shit at 3.19 volts!!! I really don't know too much about custom sticks but I try to mess around with them. I have an x-arcade with an ultimate joystick and competition pushbuttons with cherry switches.( It still sucks hard!) I have a MAS stick with a P360(My old fav) My best stick also has comp. pushbuttons and a P360. It has bible black artwork and it has a suitcase design. It was a tekken/soul calibur stick that I got from Junior(a 3-d player in Arizona)The stick had korean controls but that crap had to go. It might sound like a lie, but I swear it's a lot better than my MAS.:tup:

[Shin Ace]

Mad katz for DC gives you 5 volts regulated. No chance in hell of ending up with under 4 volts.

Combomasher has the same problem hundreds of people have had. The led's are not straight.

[mr.sagat]

Mad katz for DC gives you 5 volts regulated. No chance in hell of ending up with under 4 volts.

Combomasher has the same problem hundreds of people have had. The led's are not straight.

My bad... I didn't consider that he was using a catz DC conntroller. I got my reading plugging in my MAS to a PS2 with a bad ground. But anytime that I miss movements it was because my ground was bad which caused the P360 to get low voltage. :tup:

[freeway4885]

ok, ive been reading through this thread for the past month on and off and ive decided to try to make an xbox stick. ive read one of the easier ways to do this is the reflex stick hack. is there any diagrams on the net that show how to do it step by step? ive tried looking through the thread and the website that used to have info to it no longer works. also been using google to find something but thats not helping. also, what size screws and nails would i need for an average size box?

[CHAM CHAM]

Ok, I got a question for the Guru's here. 2 actually...
we have sticks build for DC but are looking to add a PS2 set up. so my question is this....

1 - are ps controlers mire difficult to wire up? (not a 360 stick) It looks like there are more difficulties with this as oppoesed to others. Where can we find a tutorial or a diagram of the controler.

2 - Is there a way to create a selector switch or do we have to reconnect the previous controlers if we are switching systems? We have a few ideas on how to go about it but have yet to see anyone implement this idea. Has it been done?

[Shin Ace]

Psx controllers are easy to wire, they all have a single ground. It's the act of physically soldering to them that can require some steady hands.

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56608

[ComboMasher]

Mad katz for DC gives you 5 volts regulated. No chance in hell of ending up with under 4 volts.

Combomasher has the same problem hundreds of people have had. The led's are not straight.
Sorry if i sound like a n00b, but what do you mean by the Led's arent straight?

[SpiffyShoes]

the website that used to have info to it no longer works.

Seems to be working fine for me.

http://nuclear-playground.com/joysticks/hack_xbox_reflex_arcade.html

Where can we find a tutorial or a diagram of the controler.

http://www.modeverything.com
or
http://home.comcast.net/~spiffyshoes/DualShockHack

Is there a way to create a selector switch or do we have to reconnect the previous controlers if we are switching systems

You should be able to hack a KVM switch or something to switch between systems in theory.

[CHAM CHAM]

See thats the problem... in theory... part of what comes into play is what is actually possible without frying the system? obvioulsy there is a way but we have yet to see anyone implement it.

[Shin Ace]

CLICK THE LINK I POSTED, FOOL!!!111

And yes, I am yelling. Pulling a George Costanza.

"obvioulsy there is a way but we have yet to see anyone implement it."
We? I hope I'm not included in there. hehe.

[cham_13_]

lol no.. i was in reference to the system selector.....and not we as in you and i... we as in my friends and I. Pretty much have the way to do it but something is lacking... not cost effective... pretty much have to take a cpu bpard and etch it yourself... only problem is getting the chips to connect each set to thier on/off position.

Thanx again.. much apprechiated.

[SpiffyShoes]

Shin Ace, if you had 2-3 consoles powered on at the same time and the controler plugged into all of the systems, would the joystick still work for all 3 systems at once or only one?

[cham_13_]

now my friends and i have had a discusstion about that... i'm guessing that something would burn out. The reason i say this is because you are now sharing a single current between the joystick and 3 different power sources. had they all been on the same voltage, i'd say maybe but if the wires for all 3 systems are touching a common point, i'd guess that it might try to level out the voltage... and serge.

i suppose it also depends on how you have a groud set up. Supossing its a dasy chain, you fry one and it would just domino. A single ground might be better but not sure.

[Shin Ace]

Spiffy,

All at once. In fact, as soon as one pad is plugged in, all pads receive and send info. They just don't have anywhere to send it to.

cham,

Find someone with digital electronics experience. This is not the same shit as analog. Not even close.

It's in the other thread, but you take all 5 volt leads and make them common with the use of diodes. That way one console(the one with the highest voltage) provides power for all pads. It does not cause any problems with the other consoles. The grounds on all 3 pads are connected directly together. Just twist the wires for jab from all pads into one and connect to jab microswitch, voila, done. Repeat for all buttons.
Grounding can sometimes get a tiny bit tricky.

Here are some pics for inspiration.
psx/dc http://www.geocities.com/alainprice/101804b.jpg
dc/usb/LED http://www.geocities.com/alainprice/ownzord3.jpg

I've built about a dozen more that have 2 or 3 systems. I've only seen one pad that could not be hacked in a multi setup. Not one that supported playability on all systems at once at least.

Then there's the lazy route of putting DB-25 connectors on your controls and each pad you want to use.

[Cthulhu32]

Here are some pics for inspiration.
psx/dc http://www.geocities.com/alainprice/101804b.jpg
dc/usb/LED http://www.geocities.com/alainprice/ownzord3.jpg


whoa, that first joystick looks almost exactly like the joystick I built last summer.

[NiteWalker]

i want peoples opinoin of this layout for my joystick. All crticism is welcolm. Also does any one has a joystick template similar to how the buttons on the sega agetec stick. Thank you

http://img38.exs.cx/img38/3730/sf11.jpg

I made one similar...
As for the layout it's like this:
You don't need the little circles, all you need is the button center points. The top right button is your starting point. From there go 1.5 inches to the left. Far left button is only 1.25 inches over and 3/4" down. When you measure the middle and far left center points it turns out to be 1.5". For the bottom row just measure 1.5" down.
See the attachment.
And sorry for the lateness... :razzy:

[NiteWalker]

i want peoples opinoin of this layout for my joystick. All crticism is welcolm. Also does any one has a joystick template similar to how the buttons on the sega agetec stick. Thank you

http://img38.exs.cx/img38/3730/sf11.jpg

Here's the layout.

[NiteWalker]

This is my model 2 Joystick. I built it out of 3/4" MDF and used X-Arcade buttons and stick (all I had around). I did it with a Sony PSOne pad to be able to use it on XBL with my converter. Model 3 is being planned now> What I plan to do differently:
Build it so the bottom panel comes off and not the top.
Spray paint it (this one's hand painted)
Adjust button layout a bit (see previous posts for plans)
Use comp buttons and stick
Use my plexi and overlays. See my previous posts for one of my overlays.

I'm happy with this one but am a perfectionist so I won't stop makin sticks til I get it perfect... :rofl:

[NiteWalker]

Here's another overlay I designed. I didn't draw that pic though.

[Josh X]

A long time ago I posted here about using the PCB from a DDR pad to make a stick. Well, I can say that it works and is very easy to use.

The PCB has black coating over very large contacts.
Just scuff it off and solder.
You could prolly fit a dime on the ground, with the rest being alittle smaller.

Check out the crappy illustration to get an idea....
And although these DDR pads cost alot more than a normal pad, they can be soldered with ease and some places have them used for as low as $10. Otherwise you are paying almost $25. But for my next stick project I will definatly be using one. This could also lead to easy multi-system setup, as some pads have X-box and PS2 connectors now. Is there anywhere I can get pre-made boxes for my sticks? I can't make one for crap. the one I have now is turds.... doesn't do my sanwa stick justice....

[SpiffyShoes]

I don't know of any where that you could get a Pre-Built Single player box now that Red Octane no longer sells their empty boxes and their V-Series box. But you can get a two player box for a good price from GameCab.com (http://www.gamecab.com/proddetail.asp?prod=12pwood)

[NiteWalker]

A long time ago I posted here about using the PCB from a DDR pad to make a stick. Well, I can say that it works and is very easy to use.

The PCB has black coating over very large contacts.
Just scuff it off and solder.
You could prolly fit a dime on the ground, with the rest being alittle smaller.

Check out the crappy illustration to get an idea....
And although these DDR pads cost alot more than a normal pad, they can be soldered with ease and some places have them used for as low as $10. Otherwise you are paying almost $25. But for my next stick project I will definatly be using one. This could also lead to easy multi-system setup, as some pads have X-box and PS2 connectors now. Is there anywhere I can get pre-made boxes for my sticks? I can't make one for crap. the one I have now is turds.... doesn't do my sanwa stick justice....
I can build a box to your specs. Let me know if you're interested.

[Josh X]

I'll probably be in touch with you soon. Well as soon as I sell my darn JP PS2 and the games.
Don't use it or want it so I selling it.
Once it's sold I should have plenty of cash.
Oh and if anyone here might be interested pm me.
I'm asking a very fair price for the system and the games.
Oh I was wondering can you make the box sanwa button and stick ready? Since I know these need metal or platic plates er sumthing like that. Te box wouldn't need to be that big. Just like big enough for the stick and like 4 buttons since I will be using this for Tekken. And I would be placing the start button on the front side prolly just so it's outta the way.

[NiteWalker]

I can do any of that. just let me know your specs and I'll build it. Yeah I can make it sanwa ready. You are ordering from Himura Amusements right? Just let me know.

[Josh X]

yeah I would be getting them from Himaru. But I gotta wait till this JP PS2 sells. Once it does I will be set.

[NiteWalker]

k just pm me when you're ready.
won't be very much at all.

[RetroXIII]

i dont know if i overlooked it, but can somebody please link me to a full size japanese button overlay for a dual stick? i only found a link to an american dual layout.. thanks

[freeway4885]

i just bought my comp buttons and stick and now i want to start work on my xbox arcade stick. ive heard about the reflex stick hack, can anyone link me to the page here or a website that might have some info on how to do it.

[NiteWalker]

i just bought my comp buttons and stick and now i want to start work on my xbox arcade stick. ive heard about the reflex stick hack, can anyone link me to the page here or a website that might have some info on how to do it.
http://nuclear-playground.com/joysticks/hack_xbox_reflex_arcade.html

I plan to get that one too :)

[freeway4885]

yea, i have been reading up on custom sticks for the past 2 months now and ive decided to make my own. This is gonna be my first one so i hope for the best. I went with the reflex hack because it seemed like it would be the easier route for right now, although i will have to learn how to solder later on down the line. ima build my box once i finish finals and hopefully all my stuff will be in so i can get to work and get this baby done with.

[2BAD4U]

I'm planning on making a custom 2 player arcade stick and I draw a little esquisse of it and I'd like to know if it should be ok to play 3S. I don't play often at arcade so I don't know much about the layout I should use. Should I put the buttons completly horizontaly or like I illustrated in the drawing or is the degres to high for comfort? What about the distance between the buttons and the stick? Any input is welcome, I'd like to know the distances you guys used for your sticks. Thx in advance.
Here's the link:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/633543/2

[freeway4885]

I'm planning on making a custom 2 player arcade stick and I draw a little esquisse of it and I'd like to know if it should be ok to play 3S. I don't play often at arcade so I don't know much about the layout I should use. Should I put the buttons completly horizontaly or like I illustrated in the drawing or is the degres to high for comfort? What about the distance between the buttons and the stick? Any input is welcome, I'd like to know the distances you guys used for your sticks. Thx in advance.
Here's the link:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/633543/2that seems a lil bit uncomfortable for prolonged play. there was a layout somewhere around this thread. ill search for it and link it here.

[cham_13_]

i think this is the layout that you were looking for.

[2BAD4U]

Ohh...so what you mean is that it is more comfortable to place the buttons horizontaly? I thought it would be more confortable for long time playing if you put them diagonaly cause that's what I red in a stick review somewhere but if you guys know it's better horizontaly. Anybody think so too?

[2BAD4U]

I have updated my pics. See if they are better
Update on my projet (http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/633543/2)

[freeway4885]

well, i mean, thats my personal opinion. i play stick all the time on horizonatal layouts (american style and jap style) and i can play for hours with no discomfort. now, the stick i am hacking (Xbox Reflex aracde stick) has a diagnal layout, but i havent actually played with it, it would seem like it would get uncomfortable, but it could be something that varies from person to person.

[2BAD4U]

well, i mean, thats my personal opinion. i play stick all the time on horizonatal layouts (american style and jap style) and i can play for hours with no discomfort. now, the stick i am hacking (Xbox Reflex aracde stick) has a diagnal layout, but i havent actually played with it, it would seem like it would get uncomfortable, but it could be something that varies from person to person.

And what about the angle from the side? Should I also go with a flat stick or give an incline to it? Sry for all those questions, I just don't wanna make it wrong and I don't have much time to go check at the arcade for the moment.

[Shin Ace]

Flat works fine. So does 10 degress or less.

[freeway4885]

i got my happ stick in today and my dumbass girlfriend was trying to play around with it and put the e clip on it and now i cant get it off. what is the easiest way to get this damn thing off.

[Shin Ace]

Small flat head screwdriver, pry it a bit and then wiggle it off.

Can we make a "how to remove e-clip thread" and sticky it?

[ax0r]

i got my happ stick in today and my dumbass girlfriend was trying to play around with it and put the e clip on it and now i cant get it off. what is the easiest way to get this damn thing off.


Why you gotta call your girlfriend a dumbass for playing with yer stick? You should of been more responsible :lame:

[freeway4885]

Why you gotta call your girlfriend a dumbass for playing with yer stick? You should of been more responsible :lame:because i wasnt here when she did it, she gets the mail before me half the time. anyways, i got it off and everything. after i finish finals next week im gonna start on it and hopefully have it done by the 20th. as soon as im finished, ill post pics.

[freeway4885]

i just did the art for my stick. It was a real quick photshop hack, let me know what you think about it.

[Don Calzone]

i just did the art for my stick. It was a real quick photshop hack, let me know what you think about it.


I don't know man. Put some more work to it, you did that in like 3 minutes or something er?

[freeway4885]

I don't know man. Put some more work to it, you did that in like 3 minutes or something er?ok.................thanks.................. but what do i need to do to make it better?

[NiteWalker]

Add some outer glow to all the chars to eliminate the rough look.

[2BAD4U]

Yi HA!!! I got my sticks and my buttons today. Ima start the project on Friday after my last finall exam. Any thing I should know or be careful with before starting the project? I have a question about the electical circuit of the stick: Do I really need a barrier strip to connect the PCB to the buttons or I can just connect them directly? What are the advantages of using a barrier strip?

[CHAM CHAM]

i just did the art for my stick. It was a real quick photshop hack, let me know what you think about it.

way too many jaggies on this. the chars are not even cut out clean enough. might want to fix that.

[Dreaded Fist]

freeway do this:

Ctrl click on the layer with the character on it to select the pixels
select>inverse
select>expand by 1 pixel
select>feather by 1 pixel
hit DELETE!

[freeway4885]

thanks to those that helped. this is my first stick, i also complete suck at art and this is the first time ive ever used photoshop. i guess after time you get better.

[freeway4885]

ok, i did some minor revisions, still not the greatest thing ever, but let me know if its a good start.

[CHAM CHAM]

^^ Still a little choppy but ALOT better.

[2BAD4U]

I forgot to ask, how can I know if the joystick really is a 8-way joystick? I mean, I don't wanna finish all the work and discover it's a 4-way. Thx

[CHAM CHAM]

the fastest way IMO, is to just rotate the stick. the older sticks that were only 4 way were basically tracked into 4 directions. you will be able to feel it hit each point or at least hear each click.

[NiteWalker]

Yi HA!!! I got my sticks and my buttons today. Ima start the project on Friday after my last finall exam. Any thing I should know or be careful with before starting the project? I have a question about the electical circuit of the stick: Do I really need a barrier strip to connect the PCB to the buttons or I can just connect them directly? What are the advantages of using a barrier strip?
You can connect directly to the buttons and joystick but using a barrier strip just makes the whole installation a lot neater and safer. Safety is the best thing using a barrier strip has to offer. You won't get any shorts using the barrier strips. Also using barrier strips makes it easier to change the pcb out for a different system if you need to. Get this kind (http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=274-680) at Radio Shack. Make sure you get at least 2.

[2BAD4U]

You can connect directly to the buttons and joystick but using a barrier strip just makes the whole installation a lot neater and safer. Safety is the best thing using a barrier strip has to offer. You won't get any shorts using the barrier strips. Also using barrier strips makes it easier to change the pcb out for a different system if you need to. Get this kind (http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=274-680) at Radio Shack. Make sure you get at least 2.

Alright, thx. I'll probably use barriers than. Anything else I should or should not do?

[NiteWalker]

Where the controller wire is going to stick out of the back of your box, tie a tight knot in the wire so when you pull on the cord it won't rip the pcb out of place. The best way to do this is to leave a tiny bit of slack on the inside just in case. I'll post a pic of what I mean a bit later.

[Shin Ace]

Yeah, you should never use a crimp connector on a thin solid wire. Solder your shit when possible.

[freeway4885]

im glad someone started asking a few of these questions. im starting my xbox reflex hack tomorrow. is there a certain barrier strip i should use, or is the one that was shown a few posts ago good enough for that. also, is there anything i need to pay attention to when i do this hack, the page linked earlier seems pretty self explnaitory.

[NiteWalker]

Definitely use the one from the above post. The benefit of that one is that you can insert the bare wire into the strip and screw it down to lock it in. Very tight connection. And just make sure all your wire connections are tight and won't come apart. And make sure they're covered with electrical tape or butt connectors.

[freeway4885]

Definitely use the one from the above post. The benefit of that one is that you can insert the bare wire into the strip and screw it down to lock it in. Very tight connection. And just make sure all your wire connections are tight and won't come apart. And make sure they're covered with electrical tape or butt connectors.thanks nitewalker, and everyone else who gave me feedback and helped me with whatever questions i had (including Paradox/Tha Darkside aka Byrdo). im gonna start on it this week and hopefully be done by early next week or this weekend. ill post pics as soon as i can.

[freeway4885]

Ok, im still in the box cutting stages, almost finished with that. I gotta go print out my art tomorrow. I had a few questions about the Reflex hack:

(Link here (http://nuclear-playground.com/joysticks/hack_xbox_reflex_arcade.html))

1. I got 22 gauge wire, is that a suitable size? ive heard that 24 works well also.

2. Do I use male or female quick disconnects? I tested the male ones out and they fit right over the microswitches. I guess this sounds like a newbish question, but exactly how do I use the quick disconnects? Do i just put the wires that i want to connect to the switches through them or what?

3. How do I mout the happ stick exactly? Similar to how byrdo has his without carraige bolts or screws showing. Similar to this (http://www.byrdo.org/images/Arcade%20Stiks/New%20Ditty%202.jpg) and this (http://www.byrdo.org/images/Arcade%20Stiks/Strider%20Stik.jpg) . does either way really matter other than aesthetically.

Those are all the questions i can think of right now, thanks in advance to those who help.


EDIT: just thought of another question. What size carraige bolts or screws do i need to use to mount the happ stick.

[ParryPerson]

I'm going to be making an arcade cabinet, and want to go with Sanwa parts, but I know jack about them. I know it can't be as simple as hooking up a comp can it? But then, what would be so different? I'm using a PS pad hack, so all I need to do is connect it to the point? I'm sorry if I sound stupid.

(and after looking at the price for Sanwa stuff I might be REALLY stupid)

[SpiffyShoes]

As far as wireing is conserned it is just as simple as hooking up a happ comp stick. The tricky part is if you are mounting them in a wood controll panel. You then will need to top mount them. But if your putting them in a jap candycab with a metal control panel then you shouldn't have any problem mounting them.

[ParryPerson]

Well, I would be making a wood CP, so I guess I better get to reseaching.

[SpiffyShoes]

There is a tutorial on how to mount the joysticks on www.Modeverything.com (http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/systems/Tutorial.htm). For the buttons if you get the screwin type you can mount them on 1/4" wood so if you have a router then just rout the wood thinner in that area. Most of the information for mounting them can be found in the Sanwa Mod thread.

[freeway4885]

i just i figured out the answer to a couple of my questions except for the one about quick disconnects. Exactly how do i use these things? What size screws can i use to mount my comp stick? i read in the thread earlier about a way to mount the stick without the bolts or scews being visible and im gonna go that route. i just pretty much buy the screws and some bolts to go on the bottom of the screws? Another problem im running into is when i cut out my wood, it gets cut like maybe a third or half inch short and its too hard to cut with my regular saw. what type of saw could i use to cut the rest off, a keyhole saw possibly? also, could i just sand it down, if so, what grit sandpaper is good at getting rid of excessive wood. maybe if im lucky someone will answers these questions pretty quickly, i gotta go christmas shopping in the next few hours and was gonna run out to home depot before i got done.

[SpiffyShoes]

To get the best cut you should use a table saw. If your cut is just a little off the table saw is good about cutting just 1/4" if needed. If you had to you could just use some sand paper to sand it down but for 1/4" or more that would be allot of sanding. If your going to home depot ask one of the sales people for a recomendation. They are all very knowledgable about how to do things like this and can easily instruct you on many different ways of solving your problem.

[freeway4885]

thanks spiffy, i sent you a PM.

[Shin Ace]

Here's me sanding regime.
Build the box, making sure all dimenions are just about right. Once the box is glued together, I start with 60 grit sandpaper to get the edges off. Then move up to 150 grit to smooth it out to the point that you no longer can feel any edges. The box should feel like 6 smooth sides, sometimes 5 if the bottom is weird. Then a light sanding with some 300 grit, and finally 1000 grit to prep the surface for painting. Between the first 3 coats of paint, use 1000(or 1500, 2000) grit to get rid of any grittiness in the paint. When using 1000 grit on paint, make sure the paint is dry(at least 6-12 hours), and sand very lightly.

[freeway4885]

well, i went to home depot and got a couple of the things i needed. i bought the carraige bolts for the happ stick and they fit really tight, somewhat tough to put in, but they can fit in there. is this right?

[Shin Ace]

Tight on the wood, or the plastic on the stick?

[freeway4885]

Tight on the wood, or the plastic on the stick?plastic on the stick. i got the feeling i bought the wrong size. ill be happy once i finish this though, at least its a good learning experience.

[NiteWalker]

Are you using the big holes on the stick? This is what makes the difference. The carriage bolts should fit in the big holes. If you have to redrill just use wood putty to fill in the other holes.

[freeway4885]

Are you using the big holes on the stick? This is what makes the difference. The carriage bolts should fit in the big holes. If you have to redrill just use wood putty to fill in the other holes.yea, im using the big holes. but like i said, i think i bought the wrong size ones though. the size is 5/16 - 18x2. they fit in the big holes really tight, but i was trying to make sure that thats how they are supposed to fit.


EDIT: i went to lowes and home depot and neither of them have the size i need. im just gonna do what someone said in the earlier post and use metal screws and mount them flush with the artwork. i got the barrier stip that i needed (european style) and im almost finished making my box. i wish i hadnt screwed up with my lexan though. where are a few places where i can get a glass cutter other than home depot or lowes, neither of them have one. Also, does anyone know where i can find a pic of the finished wiring for the xbox reflex hack?

[NiteWalker]

How did you try to cut it? What I do for straight lines is this: Make your marks where to cut and clamp a metal ruler down on it and score it with a utility blade a bunch of times really hard. Then turn it over and do the same thing a few times. It'll snap right across your scores. Also for the carriage bolts I believe 1/4" fits perfectly which may explain your tightness prob. I think you should stick to the carriage bilt method because over time screws can loosen. You can still flush mount your bolts so they don't come up over the lexan. Just use a drill bit that's about as big as the head of the carriage bolt and drill about 1/4 inch out the top part of the hole and your bolt should be under the surface of the wood and under the lexan.Works great. The wiring is pretty simple on the reflex. What is it you were curious about?

[freeway4885]

i had troupble cutting the angles on the sides (using byrdo's measurements here (http://www.byrdo.org/small_sanwa_blueprint.htm)) but i decided to scrap the box i was doing and takes his measurements and make some modifications to it and i havent had any problems since then. last time i ever used a saw was my freshman year in high school so im just getting back used to using my hands like that. in terms of wiring for the reflex hack, im still not sure on how you use the barrier strip or the quick disconnects. also, i have 22 gauge wire, so what size quick disconnects do i need and should they be male or female, insulated or non insulated?

[NiteWalker]

The barrier strip acts as a middle man for the controller pcb and the joystick parts. I'll post a pic to show you wnat I mean. I'll also show you wnat quick disconnects you need. They are female quick disconnects that are sized for a .187 stud and for 18-22 awg wire. Just order the ones here:
Female quick disconnects (http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=72_76_97&products_id=393)
They're perfect.

[freeway4885]

The barrier strip acts as a middle man for the controller pcb and the joystick parts. I'll post a pic to show you wnat I mean. I'll also show you wnat quick disconnects you need. They are female quick disconnects that are sized for a .187 stud and for 18-22 awg wire. Just order the ones here:
Female quick disconnects (http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=72_76_97&products_id=393)
They're perfect.ok, i think i uderstand so ima take a guess on what i should do:

1. Prep reflex stick to be wired
2. Take wires from reflex stick and put them in the barrier strip.
3. Put wires on barrier strip then hook them to quick disconnects.
4. Connect disconnects to buttons.

Is that right. Im still not sure how you actually put the quick disconnects on the buttons.

[Toodles]

It sounds like you have the right idea, The switches used in the stick and buttons (since you're talking .187 sized terminals, Im assuming American sticks/buttons/switches) have three little prongs coming off of them.
Pic of the switches: http://www.centsibleamusements.com/browseproducts/CHERRY-Microswitch-for-Buttons-and-Joysticks.HTML

The terminals they are talking about look something like this:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-crimpterms.htm
The ones you need look like either the first one, or the third one (which is the same as the first one but with more insulation)
These terminals slide (snugly) over the prongs and make a connection. Its considered best to use terminals instead of soldering the wire directly to the switch; that way, if a switch dies after some use, no soldering is needed, you just slide the terminals off the switch, replace the switch, and slide them back on. The terminals require crimping to keep them attached to the wire. For a general idea of crimping:
http://www.horseguardfence.com/hints/connector.html
(Sorry, that was the closest I could find) Terminals are optional; you can solder wire straight to the prongs on the switch, but if a switch goes out, you have to de-solder and re-solder a new one in. PITA.

The barrier strip is just to help make things in the future easier, at the expense of more work when first creating it. Totally optional, and less priority than the quick disconnect terminals. Personally I prefer a good pair of 15 pin molex connectors. Dont worry about it, its rough finding stores that carry them.

As long as the bolt do go through the holes in your stick, you're fine, even if they are tight.

If you are using a reflex stick's pcb for the brains of your stick, you should really consider running two wires to each direction and button; there have been some problems with the reflex pcb when using a common ground. If you do go this route, a barrier strip may not be a great idea, because you would have to have (6 buttons + start + back + 4 directions)*2 = 24 different terminals on that barrier strip. Thats a lot of in-box real estate for not much benefit. As long as you mount the PCB securely to one of the walls of the box, and use a good, flexible, stranded wire, say 18-24 guage size, you shouldnt have anything to worry about.

[NiteWalker]

Add a bit of wire to the reflex side by splicing some extra on. As for the quick disconnects they crimp on. You need a crimper. The female quick disconnects he needs are the ones in the first pic in the site you provided. Also the molex connectors are a great idea too. I just have trouble findin em. Any suggestions?

[2BAD4U]

I would like to know how the grounds should be exactly connected. I'm doing a 2-player stick. Do I like put to wires into 1 crimp and chain connect the wires for every buttons and connect that to the barrier strip and what about the other end? I made a quick drawing of it, should it look like that? Since it's a 2-player stick, can I run the same ground for both controllers?
And another question I have: what wood thickness should I use If I plan to add a plexiglass layer on top of the wood? I have happ's concave buttons and the ultimate joystick. Thx
Circuit (http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?fg=FFFFFF&bg=000000&migration=1&image=http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/633000-633999/633543_14_full.jpg)

[Toodles]

2BAD4U: You have almost the right idea, except there was no connection from the ground chain to the PCB. I've modified the picture for a better idea.


NiteWalker: for molex connectors, I can't really say, just look for a damned good electronics store in your area. I get mine from a local outfit called Radar electronics, the kind of place with a wall of drawers for various components. I havent ordered online, but found this at google: http://www.action-electronics.com/molex.htm

The .062 sized pins are perfect for the size of wire usually found in sticks, the .093 size are just too damned large.

[2BAD4U]

2BAD4U: You have almost the right idea, except there was no connection from the ground chain to the PCB. I've modified the picture for a better idea.


lol thx, guess I made a too quick drawing :) forgot the pcb ground connection.
I bought 3/4 thick wood today, will that be okay for the stick?

[Toodles]

Most of the sticks I've seen use 3/4" MDF, so you should be fine. If you're using a Comp stick and comp buttons, and using 3/4" for the top piece, you're going to want at least 2.25" of clearance inside the box, bringing the whole thing, if you use the 3/4" for the top and bottom, to at least 3.75" thick, and you may still need to sand or route a little extra into the bottom plate for the bottom of the joystick shaft to move around freely.

[2BAD4U]

Most of the sticks I've seen use 3/4" MDF, so you should be fine. If you're using a Comp stick and comp buttons, and using 3/4" for the top piece, you're going to want at least 2.25" of clearance inside the box, bringing the whole thing, if you use the 3/4" for the top and bottom, to at least 3.75" thick, and you may still need to sand or route a little extra into the bottom plate for the bottom of the joystick shaft to move around freely.

Yeah well the total height of the stick's gonna be 7.5" so clearance isn't a problem. I compared the wood thickness with the stick today and notice that with a 3/4" wood, there isn't that much of the stick that will stick out of the wood, and I was thinking of using a 1/4" plexiglass layer of maybe should I only use 1/8" or even 1/16? Would that break easily? So what would be a total of 1" thick and it seems like there isn't enough clearance where the joystick sticks out. Does that matter? cause the joystick would somehow feeling "shorter" if I use 1" layer right? Sry for all those question, it's my first time I attempt this and I hope I won't make any errors. Thx

[NiteWalker]

Use 1/8" Lexan. It's the best stuff and if your top doesn't exceed 11x14" a piece of lexan that size is only 4.79 at home depot. Also for your top you should consider either routing out 3/8" of the wood where the joystick will go (so you'll be mounting it in 1/2" wood- the other 3/8' plus the 1/8" Lexan=1/2") or use 5/8" or 1/2" MDF. Both methods will work great but using thinner MDF makes it easier than routing. Keep askin and most people here will be happy to help. Also if you're using wood screws make sure to drill those pilot holes. Saves you a world of splitting...

[Toodles]

Nitewalker is right, If you're using 3/4" wood, you do not want to make it any thicker, and a little tinner would probably be best. I know having 3/4" wood and 1/4" plexi makes the math easier, but it makes the sticks useless as well.

Plexi is kind rough to work on. If you'll take the advice, save it for whatever stick you make next. Its not difficult to use lexan, but its very easy to mess up, and you've got enough to worry about.

[2BAD4U]

well, I'm making a pretty big stick which means 12"X48" :) I'm planning to leave it in front of the tv so I want a spacious one for 2 players. What is lexan? Is that another type of plastic? i guess its a dumb question but its the first time I here about that.
How do a make a routing? sounds hard to make it flat...

[Toodles]

Lexan is a clear plastic. Most people use the terms lexan, plexiglass, and acrylic (when not talking about paint) interchangably. They are different types of plastic used in clear sheet, but have different properties/prices. Lexan seems a little more expecsive, but easier to work with, in my opinion. If you arent familiar with routing, I dont know if you would want to bother on your first stick. So, if you are set on using the 3/4" wood for the top, don't bother with plexiglass at all. If your set on using plexiglass, get some 1/2" plywood for the top piece and use plexiglass over it. Personally, getting everything spiffy for the plexiglass is a little hard for a first stick, so my recommend is to stick with the 3/4" MDF all around.

[NiteWalker]

You can dabble in lexan as long as you take a few precautions. When drilling, use a fast speed but don't push overly hard. When you score it to cut it use a metal ruler clamped down TIGHT. Then score a few times lightly to make your main score and then go harder after you have a guide to follow(the score you made with light cuts). And Yeah if you have no experience routing use 1/2" MDF and Lexan. I prefer Lexan cause it's very easy to work with and is high quality stuff. Don't be afraid to do a lot of experimenting with your first stick. You know you'll build another....It's addicting...

[2BAD4U]

hmm..what is MDF?
The thing is that the only wood that looks good and seems strong enough is 3/4" and I already bought it. The reason why I really want to use plexiglass is that I'm don't what to paint the wood so the feeling of the hand on the wood would be annoying IMO.. What if I go with a 1/8" plexi? still to thick? it's gonna be 7/8" thick...

[NiteWalker]

MDF=Medium Density Fiberboard. Same stuff most arcade machines are made out of. 1/8" plexi is cool just rout out about 3/8" from the bottom. You'll be left with 1/2" which is a good mounting depth for a joystick.

[NiteWalker]

To anyone looking to do it: The Hip Gear xbox controller sold at Blockbuster is too difficult to hack. It seems like there's at least 3 or 4 different grounds. Not worth it.

[freeway4885]

alright, ive had enough time to pull myself away from xbox live and christmas shopping to ask a quick question. should i just scrap my art for the stick and just get it over with? they dont look that bad without art do they? im running short on cash (the reason why i hate girlfriends and christmas) so im thinking about just putting it together and worrying about art and everything else on my next one. i guess that would make this stick basically the prototype.

[NiteWalker]

You can always just add the lexan and then just add the art later on. Or even skip both for now. My first stick I built is getting a major facelift/upgrade soon so nothing is out of the question.

[freeway4885]

well, here goes a couple questions. How hard would it be to put lexan over a finished stick? it seems like it would be a major pain in the ass once your done with it considering i think you would have to take off the buttons and all that good stuff. Also, i know i should be asking this in the sanwa thread, but im looking at starting my sanwa stick after this one. I play on both square gates and octagon gates, but i really dont have a preference. i like both of them equally. ill pretty much be playing 3d fighters on my PS2, which im making the stick for, but how easy would it be to add an octagon gate to the sanwa stick say maybe a lil while down the line if i get tired of the square gate?

[NiteWalker]

Very easy to add the octogon gate. For adding the lexan...It's not too difficult as long as you prepare for it. Just label each wire where it connects to the microswitch as to which button is which, and then the only thing you have to do is remove the buttons and joystick (and do yourself a favor and get the button wrench- it makes life million times easier) and insert the lexan and replace all the buttons and microswitches and you're done. This method works great as long as you're prepared. It's the main way I do it to change art on my controllers.

[x_tremer]

To anyone looking to do it: The Hip Gear xbox controller sold at Blockbuster is too difficult to hack. It seems like there's at least 3 or 4 different grounds. Not worth it.

oh, i was gonna get that, only 10 dollars here. Any other cheap 3rd party i could hack?

[NiteWalker]

The controller s has a common ground but somewhat small solder contacts.

[x_tremer]

do you know where i could find the soldering points for a controller s? I have one lying around which i dont use.

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59640&highlight=xbox+hack

in that post, it show me, but do i have to use resistors? Couldnt i just use a common ground? or multiple grounds? (one for buttons/one for joystick)

thanks

[NiteWalker]

Controller s uses a common ground. I didn't use any resistors on mine and it still works fine. My advice if it's your first time soldering to a PCB don't even bother with the l and r triggers. No fighting games really utilize them with the Black and White buttons already there. I also heard some mad catz controllers are good to use but can't confirm. I'm still seeking a good controller that's easy to use that doesn't have the $30 tag.

[2BAD4U]

Quick question, what size hole should I make for the joystick?

[Shin Ace]

If the joystick is american, same size hole as the buttons.

[x_tremer]

Controller s uses a common ground. I didn't use any resistors on mine and it still works fine. My advice if it's your first time soldering to a PCB don't even bother with the l and r triggers. No fighting games really utilize them with the Black and White buttons already there. I also heard some mad catz controllers are good to use but can't confirm. I'm still seeking a good controller that's easy to use that doesn't have the $30 tag.

no it isnt my first time, ive had a bit of experience. Just dont want to fry my xbox pad. Yea, ill just solder to the buttons and not the triggers. Thanks

[NiteWalker]

If the joystick is american, same size hole as the buttons.

Sanwas take bigger/smaller holes? I thought they were also the same as button holes.

[Shin Ace]

I've only installed american shite.

[2BAD4U]

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/633543/3

Tell me what you think

[Shin Ace]

That is among the biggest joystick I've ever seen.

[SpiffyShoes]

Sanwas take bigger/smaller holes? I thought they were also the same as button holes.


Bigger if you consider the big hole you have to cut to Top Mount them as the hole. But Smaller if your bottom mounting and for the hole in the Plexi. The Sanwas need a smaller hole in the plexi because they have a small dust washer and if you use a 1-1/8" hole or bigger then the hole will be exposed when you move the joystick.

[2BAD4U]

Thiking about the thickness of the top piece....you guys says a 1/2" total thickness is good...but with 1/2" - 1/8 (plexi) = 3/8". How can I screw the joystick into a 3/8" thick board? Well I mean, is it gonna be strong enough to hold on tight? There will be some pressure by the player when using the