The Official Custom Arcade Sticks Thread

[NiteWalker]

1. which pcb are you using?
If it's any of the type where there's nothing on the other side you can drill small 1/16 holes right on the traces so you can slip the wire through the tiny holes. It makes soldering a lot easier. Also you may have to scrape doen to bare copper. What kind of solder and stuff are you using?
2. Yeah you can solder to places where there's already solder on the pcb just be careful not to create bridges when heating up the solder that's already there. You don't want 2 different points touching.

[Nash421]

My custom sanwa stick and case =). Sanwa Flash, Octagonal gate, and Bat Top!

Sanwa Top View (http://i.xanga.com/bunboy421/SanwaTopView.jpg)
Sanwa Back View (http://i.xanga.com/bunboy421/SanwaBack.jpg)
Sanwa Side View (http://i.xanga.com/bunboy421/SanwaSide.jpg)

[2BAD4U]

I'm using some cheap controls from ebay with double force instead of dual shock :) cheap stuff... oh well. There already a few place that copper is visible but only for up/down/left/right and X/O/S/T only...oh wait, I'll post a pic

[2BAD4U]

http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?fg=FFFFFF&bg=000000&migration=1&image=http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/633000-633999/633543_23_full.jpg
Does that mean I can directly solder on those three solder points (in the red cercle) for the shoulder buttons or should I use the grey wires coming out from behind?
http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?fg=FFFFFF&bg=000000&migration=1&image=http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/633000-633999/633543_24_full.jpg
Is that the start solder point or it's the ground? cause I don't see any for the select so why would there be one for start? Sry, I'm kinda confused...

[NiteWalker]

1. I'd just strip the l and r wire and splice some wire right to that. Much easier than soldering.
2. That looks like the ground. From the start button trace the green lead. Whichever one leads to the black ball (heart of the pcb) is the hot trace. Other is ground. Try to find a white sony ps1 dual shock. Much better for soldering and only 3.99 at eb games.

[NiteWalker]

My custom sanwa stick and case =). Sanwa Flash, Octagonal gate, and Bat Top!

Sanwa Top View (http://i.xanga.com/bunboy421/SanwaTopView.jpg)
Sanwa Back View (http://i.xanga.com/bunboy421/SanwaBack.jpg)
Sanwa Side View (http://i.xanga.com/bunboy421/SanwaSide.jpg)

Very nice. 2 things I would've done though:
1. countersink screws.
2. Fill all gaps and the countersunk screws for a nice smooth finish. Look something like pic.

[2BAD4U]

1. I'd just strip the l and r wire and splice some wire right to that. Much easier than soldering.
2. That looks like the ground. From the start button trace the green lead. Whichever one leads to the black ball (heart of the pcb) is the hot trace. Other is ground. Try to find a white sony ps1 dual shock. Much better for soldering and only 3.99 at eb games.
What do you mean by hot trace? That's the ones I should solder to?

[2BAD4U]

WTF?!?! All connection test are positive?!? Help me out here please... For some reason, EVERYTHING is connected! I try the ground with any positive connection and its connected, I try two positive connections and they are connected...Sry, wires are a big mess but I just couldn't do better well didn't want to.

[2BAD4U]

Pic 2 PCB

[2BAD4U]

Ok, now I'm really confused. I tried checking continuity on another PCB and all tests were positive also and that is with a PCB that I didn't solder anything to it yet so what's wrong? Is that normal?

[NiteWalker]

You should definitely try a different controller. The one in my pic is a mad catz and sold at wal-mart for $5. Very easy to solder to and cheap. You can also drill the small holes to slip the wire through the bottom. Overall the easiest pcb I ever worked with.

[2BAD4U]

Update: Tried the stick with the ps2 and the only buttons working are the select and start. I notice the only difference in how I connected them is that for the start, I used a knife to scratch till I see copper and for the select, I soldered on an already soldered point.
The reason why I don't wanna buy a new controller is that I already spent $125 on the arcade stick and I don't want to put more money in it and I'm sure there's a way to make it work.
Can it be the solder spots that aren't good?

I once red about a one or two ground PCB, how would it affect the buttons and how can I check?

[freeway4885]

You should definitely try a different controller. The one in my pic is a mad catz and sold at wal-mart for $5. Very easy to solder to and cheap. You can also drill the small holes to slip the wire through the bottom. Overall the easiest pcb I ever worked with.you just brought something to my attention. im almost finished with my xbox stick, and plan on starting my sanwa ps2 stick next. i noticed you posted a pic of the mad catz pcb, but how well does it work with convertors? i was also told about the sony ps1 dual shocks. i heard they work well with most if not all convertors.

[NiteWalker]

If you can find the sony dual shock 1 for ps1 go fpr that. As for converter compatability I haven't had any issues yet except with sfac for xbox. The converter I'm using is the $10 wal mart one.

[freeway4885]

If you can find the sony dual shock 1 for ps1 go fpr that. As for converter compatability I haven't had any issues yet except with sfac for xbox. The converter I'm using is the $10 wal mart one.ok, thats cool then, because thats the convertor i use.

[2BAD4U]

Now I'm really pissed.
Even without connecting the ground, when I plug the joystick in the ps2, the character (playing 3s) keeps on jumping backward with no ground connected! What could be the reason of that?
If a controller has 2 ground, does that mean I have to use two different connection for the grounds or I can connect the first to the second and make that both grounds become one?

[Shin Ace]

Now I'm really pissed.
Even without connecting the ground, when I plug the joystick in the ps2, the character (playing 3s) keeps on jumping backward with no ground connected! What could be the reason of that?
If a controller has 2 ground, does that mean I have to use two different connection for the grounds or I can connect the first to the second and make that both grounds become one?

Play it safe and run a ground for each button from the pad. Use the correct grounding point(instead of the same one over and over) for each ground wire.

[Darkstalkers4]

Hi,

Wondering if anyone is in NJ or NYC, I'm in Bergen County, I have TONS of sticks, 2 MAS multi systems (PS,N64 and Saturn),X-arcade 2 player,(multi), X-Arcade solo for X-box, a bunch of pelican real arcades, multi, xbox and ps2. A SNES MK stick, a nicely hacked pelican real arcade for saturn which is great.

I'd like to take a bunch of these sticks and have someone mod and hack them with the best innards, so I have 2 great stick for dreamcast, saturn, x-box and ps2, maybe I'll do one for a neo geo system too,(looking into buying one of those).

I just signed up at SRK but have been a lurker for a long time.

Thanks,

Bob

[2BAD4U]

I got the left/right/up and all buttons to work out but the controller still sticks on the up/left direction... I found out something strange today: when I test continuity of the down direction, I only get positive when the controller ISN'T plugged in, when I plug it, the electricity doesn't pass anymore. Same for the up direction but in opposite case, when not plugged, it negative, when I plug it, it tests positive... I wanted to buy mad catz controllers but the only I found were $15 each! Where can I find used ones?

[2BAD4U]

Anyone tried the Hip Gear controller's PCB for ps2? That's the cheapest I found so far for $8.50 each (I need 2...) How good or bad is the PCB to work with?

[SpiffyShoes]

PS2 PCB's are very hard to hack because of the analog buttons. I'd suggest getting a Official Sony Dual Shock 1 pre PS2. I don't know how much they are where you live but you can get them used at GameStop for any where from $5-10 each.

And they are easy to hack.

http://home.comcast.net/~spiffyshoes/DualShockHack/

[RenderTroll]

Here's my first custom stick. Made the box and artwork myself and it's dimensions are about 6 inches tall, 12 inches deep, and 15 inches wide. It has a sanwa stick and happ competition buttons. Special thanks to SpiffyShoes for helping me wire it.

[RenderTroll]

Another image of same stick.

[freeway4885]

very nice stick. love the artwork. my box is completed and im currently putting the finishing touches on it, but its not very pretty. any tips that you guys could give me when i work on my next box? my main problems were wood cracking (which i think could be fixed my pre drilling holes) and cutting issues.

EDIT: also, i dont have that great of an environment to do all the work for my stick. been struggling just to get the right tools and equipment. i have no work bench, which i also feel is the reason for my cuts being off.

[2BAD4U]

You should definitely try a different controller. The one in my pic is a mad catz and sold at wal-mart for $5. Very easy to solder to and cheap. You can also drill the small holes to slip the wire through the bottom. Overall the easiest pcb I ever worked with.

Ok, I went to Wal-Mart today and bought the same controller as in the pic and I see that it's a lot more simple than my other PCB. Where did you solder the ground to?

[NiteWalker]

I just scraped some of the green stuff off of the bottom part near the start and select buttons. See the pic for exact place. For the hot spots just use the little silver dots. They all lead back to the button spots and are great for soldering.

[2BAD4U]

Alright! I got one done, 2nd player tomorrow. The only prob is that if I solder select and start buttons, and when I press start, it acts like if I pressed start & select, why? I looked and couldn't find solder that could possibly link start and select. But when I solder only start to the PCB, it acts like a normal start button.

[NiteWalker]

Where on start and select did you solder? A pic would be great. Did you go for the little silver spots? There might be a stray piece of solder somewhere messing things up.

[AXE]

Im not a fan of the way you have put the art together for it........ looks great for button layout and all that but i think having the picture in the middle with a boarder around it looks silly.

if every ppl need help with nice art for a stick gather the images you like and I will pimp it out for you...... I have been doing multimedia design for the past 3 years

[2BAD4U]

Where on start and select did you solder? A pic would be great. Did you go for the little silver spots? There might be a stray piece of solder somewhere messing things up.

I decided to let the select button down for the first player since I couldn't find where the prob was so I tried again for the 2nd player and it worked at first but for some reason, after half an hour, the select became the down button!?! Guess I'll have to live without both select buttons. Here is a pic of my stick and I'm pretty proud of it even if it doesn't look that good but I don't care.

[freeway4885]

I decided to let the select button down for the first player since I couldn't find where the prob was so I tried again for the 2nd player and it worked at first but for some reason, after half an hour, the select became the down button!?! Guess I'll have to live without both select buttons. Here is a pic of my stick and I'm pretty proud of it even if it doesn't look that good but I don't care.trust me, your box looks wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy better than mine. as i said earlier, because of my lack of carpentry skills per se, ive had ALOT of extra work to make it look cosmetically suitable. im just happy that i actually attempted it and came through. i know one thing, this stick has been a serious learning experience and i know that my next one with be 10 times better. good job though, im thinking of one day doing a 2 player one myself, problem is most of my friends barely play fighting games and half of them havent been to the arcade in years.




EDIT: just a quick question before i do my wiring in the morning. im using this barrier strip right here (http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=274-680) and do i just strip the wires at their ends and put them in there bare? do i have to twist the wires together then screw the terminals down? also, with the reflex hack, do i basically just daisy chain the ground to all the switches? what do you guys usually use to mount the pcb? thanks in advance.

[RenderTroll]

Im not a fan of the way you have put the art together for it........ looks great for button layout and all that but i think having the picture in the middle with a boarder around it looks silly.

if every ppl need help with nice art for a stick gather the images you like and I will pimp it out for you...... I have been doing multimedia design for the past 3 years


Sorry you don't like it, but I made it for myself. So if I'm the only person happy with the way it looks then that's all that matters.

[NiteWalker]

2BAD4U: Looks very nice. I like the design a lot. The joystick is too far away from the buttons for my own tastes but if it's comfortable for you cool. I usually put the joystick 4 inches away from the buttons on center.

freeway4885: Just strip the ends, twist the wire (just to neaten it) slide it in and screw it down. Make sure it's a tight fit and the wire won't come out if you pull on it. It's safer with a reflex to give each button it's own ground. More wire but safer in the end and less problems. as for mounting your pcb you can do a few things. If the bottom is flush with the box just screw it down. If it needs a bit of leverage just use some small wooden blocks at the edges.

[freeway4885]

freeway4885: Just strip the ends, twist the wire (just to neaten it) slide it in and screw it down. Make sure it's a tight fit and the wire won't come out if you pull on it. It's safer with a reflex to give each button it's own ground. More wire but safer in the end and less problems. as for mounting your pcb you can do a few things. If the bottom is flush with the box just screw it down. If it needs a bit of leverage just use some small wooden blocks at the edges.ok, maybe its just because its early and the morning and im half asleep, but how do i give each button its own ground? Also, what would happen if i wired it just using one ground for everything?

[NiteWalker]

If you look at the reflex pcb there's 2 wires for each button, the button wire or hot wire and the other being the ground. The ground wire goes to the ground or com part on the microswitch and the hot wire goes to the no (normally open) tab on the switch. It's really simple just a bit more wiring.
I haven't had any experience with the reflex but I heard some people had wierd effects using a common ground. It's up to you. Try just leaving all the extra ground wires from the reflex pcb and if you do end up having to use a ground for each button the wire's already there.

[Puma]

I am currently working on my first arcade stick for the dreamcast..I am using the dreamcast gamepad pcb...But something happened that really stoped the project..when i was opening my controller to get the pcb I heard a snap. When I look on the pcb the bottom right corner was broken off. :sad:

The attached picture has a big red curcle around the piece of the pcb that broke off..

I dont know if I can save the pcb I have no idea what to now can someone please give me some help. I dont know weather it is alright to keep that pcb and use it or get another one.

I didnt want to go any futher because I am scared I am going to blow a controller port in my dreamcast.
Thank You

[freeway4885]

If you look at the reflex pcb there's 2 wires for each button, the button wire or hot wire and the other being the ground. The ground wire goes to the ground or com part on the microswitch and the hot wire goes to the no (normally open) tab on the switch. It's really simple just a bit more wiring.
I haven't had any experience with the reflex but I heard some people had wierd effects using a common ground. It's up to you. Try just leaving all the extra ground wires from the reflex pcb and if you do end up having to use a ground for each button the wire's already there.ok, i might just try and do it the way you said with each button having individual grounds. so basically, could i just take both the ground and hot wire, and put them through one terminal in the barrier strip?

[SpiffyShoes]

How much of the PCB is broken off? Are any of the connections broken on it? If any of the conections are broken you can probably patch them together with some wire.

[Puma]

I made a circle around the part i broke off in the picture i posted....I broke off the bottom right hand corner..if i get my digital camera online i can make a picture of tthw broken part..
but the problem is i cant find the other peice

[NiteWalker]

ok, i might just try and do it the way you said with each button having individual grounds. so basically, could i just take both the ground and hot wire, and put them through one terminal in the barrier strip?
Each line(hot and ground) needs it's own line otherwise it would be like the button's being held down. So on the strip it would look like hot wire for X, ground wire for X, hot wire for Y, ground wire for Y, etc.

[freeway4885]

Each line(hot and ground) needs it's own line otherwise it would be like the button's being held down. So on the strip it would look like hot wire for X, ground wire for X, hot wire for Y, ground wire for Y, etc.so i most definitely need another barrier strip. lets hope that my radio shack has more, when i bought mine it was the last one. im probably gonna need one more barrier strip to add to that. 10 buttons (face buttons plus start and back) and 4 directions. not as easy as i thought it was gonna be, but hey, at least im not soldering.

[NiteWalker]

Yeah not soldering makes it 10x easier. You will need a total of 28 spots on the strips so you need 3 and can just cut off the extra inputs on the strip and save em for your next joystick. They usually get that stuff in pretty quick. You can try another electronics store near you. Just be careful of prices. I went to a local electronics parts store and they tried to rape me for $60 for a bag of quick disconnects. "Top quality!" They said. Right.

[2BAD4U]

Thx for your opinions.
It is true that the joystick are a bit far from the buttons cause I didn't know how far I should put them so I chose 10" and it's alright. The only problem is that I don't have much space to rest my wrist on the first player side because I broke the plexi while sandind it (i know... :) ). Anyway, so that's why I had to cut it a bit and sincerly, it made it look a lot better and I'm pretty happy about it.

[freeway4885]

well, right when im about to begin wiring my stick (doing the xbox reflex hack), i noticed that both ground and hot wires for the left direction were missing. just my luck. im pretty sure this means its time to break out the soldering iron right?

[NiteWalker]

freeway4885: AT least you don't have to solder the whole thing right? Just make sure to be very careful as to avoid mistakes. Make sure to post your results and everything so we can see how it came out. I want to see if this hack is trouble free cause I may do it as well.

2BAD4U: The stick looks great. I love the different shape design. As for the stick to buttons measurement 4 inches apart on center works great. You gonna do any more sticks?

[2BAD4U]

2BAD4U: The stick looks great. I love the different shape design. As for the stick to buttons measurement 4 inches apart on center works great. You gonna do any more sticks?[/QUOTE]

Well...I spent so much money and time on it that I'm not sure that I would make more soon. I'll see if I'll have the time the the will to make more maybe for a friend. But like I said, spent so much time soldering that I'm kinda sick about it.
Someone posted a link to a ps1 controller hack and I think it doesn't need any soldering right? If so, I guess I'll start only using ps1 PCB's.

[freeway4885]

im hooked on making them now. i really want to keep pursuing them. once i get good at them, i think i might just make them just for my liking, and possibly sell them. im starting on a saturn design for a stick i plan to work on in the near future. as of right now, im just focusing on finishing this xbox reflex hack and starting on a ps2 stick next. oh yea, quick question nitewalker, how do i remove the solder that was on the spot? can i get a razor and just scrape it off? anyways, im getting more adjusted to working with photoshop. this is basically a start, but im just adding games that i play on my saturn on a normal basis. let me know what you think.

[NiteWalker]

Pretty nice on the art. Do some reading up on photoshop as there's really no limit as to what you can do with it. As for removing the solder you can just heat it up And use some scrap wire to remove it. Just be very careful about removing it. If you want you really don't have to remove it at all. Just heat it up and put your new wire on. You can add a bit of extra solder if you want to make sure your connection's tight.
Yeah it is hard to stop building right?

[freeway4885]

Pretty nice on the art. Do some reading up on photoshop as there's really no limit as to what you can do with it. As for removing the solder you can just heat it up And use some scrap wire to remove it. Just be very careful about removing it. If you want you really don't have to remove it at all. Just heat it up and put your new wire on. You can add a bit of extra solder if you want to make sure your connection's tight.
Yeah it is hard to stop building right?yes, very very very addicting. i used to be addicted to buying them, i had 5 sticks at one point. i sold a few of my old sticks because i didnt play with them. now, just the thought of having something unique to play on is just damn satisfying to me.

[NiteWalker]

Goin to get some more controllers today. I'll post the package and everything and the pcb so people know what to get and see how easy it is to hack.

[Shin Ace]

now, just the thought of having something unique to play on is just damn satisfying to me.

The novelty of it wears off pretty quickly. However, going back to commercial sticks takes a lot more getting used to.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

What up my peoples! No. I'm not back or anything like that, but I'm able to post from where I'm currently at (not Iraq). Great to hear from the new builders. Keep building sticks, it just gets easier and becomes fun, then soon you'll start to get creative and shit. Artwork, personal drawings, con-tac paper, stickers, 100% plexi, it's all good. I'm waiting to see a Half Life 2 theme soon. They got the PC mods, how about controllers and so forth?

*note: That rhyme thing going on in the second sentence was purely accidental. Even if it did suck.

[Captain Ryu]

I need some help.

I'm trying to help my friend mod his pelican stick. We took out the original board and everything. I had him get an H series ps1 dual shock pad and he has a p360 and some buttons. We have pretty much everything we need. We are up to the part where we have to scrape the black layer off the board so we can solder but we dont know exactly which ones to scrape. Does anyone have like a step by step picture guide that shows where to solder everything including the ground and 5 volt?

Thanks.

[Shin Ace]

Look at where the cord attaches to the pad. There's about 7 wires, and 2 of them are shorted with a capacitor(the cap is on the board, it will be electrolytic). That capacitor couples the ground and power lines. Now you just need to do a continuity test between a button ground and the capacitor leads. That will tell you which is gnd and which power.

[freeway4885]

just a quick question, i lost my c clip for my stick today and went to lowes to buy somemore. i havent tried them on yet, but the size of it looked to be 7/32. does anyone know if this is right?

Edit: if it helps, its a happ competition stick.

[NiteWalker]

I measured one from one of my comp sticks. Check pic for measurements. Hope it helps. I also have another pic....

[NiteWalker]

....right here of another angle.

[NiteWalker]

And here is one of the best pads I ever found to use for a custom stick. I know it works great because my very first stick was with one of these and it still works great. These are mostly for non converter use because of them being all digital and 3rd party. But I can vouch for the wal mart $10 converter. That definitely works with this pad except for the sfac for xbox where it turns into poo. And the price is the best. 4.99 new at eb and .99 if you find it used. Also eb is having a sale right now with mad catz products. Buy 1 get one 50% off. I bought like 7 the last time I was there. Going to get more tuesday. See my next post for a pic of the pcb.

[NiteWalker]

And here's the pcb. Sooooooo easy to solder to. You can just use the little silver dots as your solder points. For a ground I usually scrape the gree stuff off of the part to the left of the square button spot and solder to that. Very easy and lots of room to work with.

[freeway4885]

thanks for the pics nite. i have to run back to lowes tomorrow and get that straightened out and i might as well go pick up some of those controlers. oh yea, i gotta order some more buttons for my next stick and i remember you talking about getting a button wrench. im sure its used to take the buttons off and helps if you plan on re-modeling your stick. is it worthwhile to purchase it?

[NiteWalker]

Yes very. It's only $2 at most places you can get it from but I recommend tornadoterry:
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQgotopageZ1QQsassZtornadoterrysdotQQsorecordsp erpageZ50QQsosortpropertyZ1
It allows you to tighten button nuts even in tight places. Not necessary but makes stick making 100x easier. Best use is actually removing the nuts. But worth it overall. Stick with him for buttons too. very cheap. He doesn't advertise them but he has comp buttons.
I'm gonna try some other genaric ps pads they had for like .99 or 1.99. I'll get em probably tuesday and post results.

[2BAD4U]

And here's the pcb. Sooooooo easy to solder to. You can just use the little silver dots as your solder points. For a ground I usually scrape the gree stuff off of the part to the left of the square button spot and solder to that. Very easy and lots of room to work with.

I got to agree with NiteWalker, I tried with some ebay controller and had such a hard time understanding the PCB, then he told me to get this one at walmart and I did, the day after, my 2-player joystick was ready :). For the ground, I use one one the shoulder buttons cause I like to use the wires more than soldering, much easier IMO.

[freeway4885]

i need some quick tips. im gonna solder the wires that fell off my reflex pcb today. the points are realitively small, and this is my first time soldering. any tips some of you more experienced guys can give me so i dont overuse the solder. i would hate to short this thing out.

[NiteWalker]

Tin you wire first by applying solder to it. There's already solder on the point so you shouldn't need to add any more. Just do everything carefully. As long as the iron is hot enough you shouldn't have any problems making a bridge between 2 solder points. Solder flows to where the heat is. Biggest steps are to be very careful and prepare for your job.

Here's a stick I just completed last nite. More pics to follow...

[NiteWalker]

It uses happ comp buttons and stick. Here's the wiring inside. I changed the pcb out today for a dual shock ps1 pad for better compatability with converters.

[NiteWalker]

And here's the whole inside wired up.

[NiteWalker]

A builder's best friend!

...for buttons anyway...

[freeway4885]

nice stick nite. what are the dimmensions on that? i dont have a multimeter right now, but in the future, i plan on doing more stick, and most of they require soldering. is this something i should go ahead and get?

[NiteWalker]

Dimensions:
Top: 14" wide by 10" high with the corners cut to whatever you're comfortable with.
Bottom I don't have an exact measurement cause I did it by eye and sanding. I had to do quite a bit to get the bottom to fit in the groove.
Sides are 8 1/2" wide with the back part being 5 and the front being 4.
Back is 3 1/2" with an 8 degree angle.
Front is 2 3/4" with 8 degree angle.

Definitely invest in a multi meter. Very cheap and easy to use.
This is the one I bought here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=25412&item=3866337795
It basically means you can do a test on your soldering job before you actually plug in the controller.

[freeway4885]

im having a hard damn time soldering to these really really small points. i think i have soldered over two points. i basically just want to take all the solder off and start over. how can i get the solder off?

[Toodles]

Nite: That is a damned clean installation. I see that we agree on the idea that zip ties makes for clean wiring. I probably would find the bolts on top annoying, but the inside setup looks first class.

freeway: heat up the solder with the iron and remove the wire. Then, either use a solder sucker (the blue bulbs parents use as a snot sucker for babies, or the spring loaded thing Radio Shack sells) to suck up the solder, or lay some copper braid (also available at Radio Shack) over the solder, and press the iron on it so the copper heats up, which heats up the solder, which then sticks to the copper. Soldering onto microswitches is a little different than soldering on a pcb, cuz its a large piece of metal. There's usually a good amount of solder on those, and remember that the iron should get the metal tab of the switch really hot if the joints gonna hold.

[2BAD4U]

Nite: That is a damned clean installation. I see that we agree on the idea that zip ties makes for clean wiring. I probably would find the bolts on top annoying, but the inside setup looks first class.

I gotta agree. We see here the experience you have about building sticks. I did my finish my first stick last week and the wires are a BIG mess. Myself, I am a bit lost working with them so I'm hoping I won't have any prob soon ;) . I still got a lot to learn from you guys.

[Alexlexus]

i need help with cover art for my stick.
i just finished modding my real arcade universal
stick with the happ buttons and p360 stick,
now it's a damn fine stick. how ever how do i
put cover art on it like sf:ac stick or like many sticks i've
seen on the forum(very nice ones i might add).

[NiteWalker]

Nite: That is a damned clean installation. I see that we agree on the idea that zip ties makes for clean wiring. I probably would find the bolts on top annoying, but the inside setup looks first class.


Yes the zip ties make for great clean and professional looking wiring jobs. I think countersinking the bolts under the lexan is great for the joysticks. That way I only end up with the 4 holding the lexan down. I'm thinking about a lot of other ways to mount it without bolts.

[Shin Ace]

You can screw the joystick from the back, glue it in place, or simply countersink the bolts. If you countersink, you can fill in the gaps and make it a nice flat panel again. All 3 choices will yield 0 screws on the front.

[Toodles]

Yes the zip ties make for great clean and professional looking wiring jobs. I think countersinking the bolts under the lexan is great for the joysticks. That way I only end up with the 4 holding the lexan down. I'm thinking about a lot of other ways to mount it without bolts.
I meant the ones holding down the plexi. One just below roundhouse, and one a bit close below and left of the stick. Both look like they'd be right where my wrists would rest. With decent thickness plexi (1/8"and up?) the buttons aughta be enough to hold the plexi to the wood.

[NiteWalker]

You can screw the joystick from the back, glue it in place, or simply countersink the bolts. If you countersink, you can fill in the gaps and make it a nice flat panel again. All 3 choices will yield 0 screws on the front.
I countersink the bolts under the lexan for the sturdiest connection between the wood and joystick. Glue and screws can wear out over time and playing. I think the countersunk bolts is the best option.

Toodles:
I was actually thinking the same thing because after I put the buttons in the lexan was held down pretty tight. FYI when my wrists rest on the controller they don't come in contact with the bolts at all. Another thing I may try is the t-molding with the lip like what's on the sf arcade stick. Even another option which I may try is using 5/8" MDF for the tops of the cp and with 1/8" lexan it's still 3/4" and the t-molding that size will fit and the lexan's edge will be flush with the top of the molding. I'll explor more ortions til I find something I like and what looks good.

[freeway4885]

ok, another cord just fell off my pcb for the reflex hack. i dont have a digital cam right now, but for you to get an idea of how small these solder points are, check out the pic. im at the point now where im upset with this thing. i messed up and have solder on two points and the rest of the solder i had is very messy. would it just be best to buy another reflex stick and start from scratch or just solder and move on. keep in mind, this is my first stick AND my first time soldering. or maybe i should just take all the solder off the wires i already have done and start over.

[NiteWalker]

i need help with cover art for my stick.
i just finished modding my real arcade universal
stick with the happ buttons and p360 stick,
now it's a damn fine stick. how ever how do i
put cover art on it like sf:ac stick or like many sticks i've
seen on the forum(very nice ones i might add).

Design your art to be the same size as the surface of the stick with about 200-300 dpi if you're using photoshop. Have it printed at kinko's on indoor vinyl (personal choice) but make sure they get the colors right. From there it's as simple as buying a piece of lexan (make sure it's lexan; see below as to why) and drilling and cutting it to shape.
Ok, now some things about Lexan. You can treat it like wood. You can cut it, drill it, pound it, bite it whatever and it won't crack on you. Seriously it is that great. I did an experinent earlier to try and snap a 4 inch wide piece earlier and bent it backwards and all I got was a bent piece of lexan. It's more like that plastic toys are made of that you have to keep bending it back and forth to break than it is plexiglass. For cutting I've heard several methods but I just score and snap. Works great for me. For drilling I clamp it in place on the cp and then turn it over and drill from the bottom so I get the right placing for the holes. The attached pic was done at full speed and pressing moderately hard. No cracks here.

[NiteWalker]

ok, another cord just fell off my pcb for the reflex hack. i dont have a digital cam right now, but for you to get an idea of how small these solder points are, check out the pic. im at the point now where im upset with this thing. i messed up and have solder on two points and the rest of the solder i had is very messy. would it just be best to buy another reflex stick and start from scratch or just solder and move on. keep in mind, this is my first stick AND my first time soldering. or maybe i should just take all the solder off the wires i already have done and start over.
Don't give up!
You're being too rough with the wires. Try taping them down with electrical tape once you get them in place. Another thing: If the wires are inserted from underneath find the hole and heat up the existing solder while inserting the wire from the bottom.
Whatever you do don't give up! You'll definitely make some mistakes on your first stick. Everyone does. Just don't get too frustrated and take everything slowly and carefully. I'm having trouble finding this stick or I'd do it as well. Any places around you have it?

[freeway4885]

Don't give up!
You're being too rough with the wires. Try taping them down with electrical tape once you get them in place. Another thing: If the wires are inserted from underneath find the hole and heat up the existing solder while inserting the wire from the bottom.
Whatever you do don't give up! You'll definitely make some mistakes on your first stick. Everyone does. Just don't get too frustrated and take everything slowly and carefully. I'm having trouble finding this stick or I'd do it as well. Any places around you have it?well, the first place i saw it was at eb games. other than that, you would have to order it off the net. it can be found at buy.com, i beleive it may be $17 or $18, but thats without shipping. also, there is usually one or two of them sold on ebay almost every week. i want an xbox stick mainly because of SFAC coming out on xbox and be on xbox live, but i want all 8 of my buttons, just in case some game comes out that requires them, but its highly unlikely. well, if im still gonna work with this same pcb, i need to fix the solder issue im having. i would rather scrape off all existing solder and start over. how do i take the solder off.

[ParryPerson]

Since I'm a broke ass bitch, how big are you guys making your sticks? I'm thinking about making a Mortal Kombat design one (just the design, not the logos/art) and then later I can put it on a cabinet built like the MK one.

Sound like a good idea? I don't know, I'm fucking stupid.

[NiteWalker]

Mine are usually 14x10 on the top and 4 high in back and 3 high in front. gives you enough wrist space and not a giant. If you're building one for a cabinet you should consider a 2 player stick about 36-48" long. For elbow room :)

[Alexlexus]

Design your art to be the same size as the surface of the stick with about 200-300 dpi if you're using photoshop. Have it printed at kinko's on indoor vinyl (personal choice) but make sure they get the colors right. From there it's as simple as buying a piece of lexan (make sure it's lexan; see below as to why) and drilling and cutting it to shape.
Ok, now some things about Lexan. You can treat it like wood. You can cut it, drill it, pound it, bite it whatever and it won't crack on you. Seriously it is that great. I did an experinent earlier to try and snap a 4 inch wide piece earlier and bent it backwards and all I got was a bent piece of lexan. It's more like that plastic toys are made of that you have to keep bending it back and forth to break than it is plexiglass. For cutting I've heard several methods but I just score and snap. Works great for me. For drilling I clamp it in place on the cp and then turn it over and drill from the bottom so I get the right placing for the holes. The attached pic was done at full speed and pressing moderately hard. No cracks here.


[Design your art to be the same size as the surface of the stick with about 200-300 dpi if you're using photoshop. Have it printed at kinko's on indoor vinyl (personal choice) but make sure they get the colors right. From there it's as simple as buying a piece of lexan (make sure it's lexan; see below as to why) and drilling and cutting it to shape.
Ok, now some things about Lexan. You can treat it like wood. You can cut it, drill it, pound it, bite it whatever and it won't crack on you. Seriously it is that great. I did an experinent earlier to try and snap a 4 inch wide piece earlier and bent it backwards and all I got was a bent piece of lexan. It's more like that plastic toys are made of that you have to keep bending it back and forth to break than it is plexiglass. For cutting I've heard several methods but I just score and snap. Works great for me. For drilling I clamp it in place on the cp and then turn it over and drill from the bottom so I get the right placing for the holes. The attached pic was done at full speed and pressing moderately hard. No cracks here.]


is there a nother way i can do this?
like sticker paper? or can i draw this picture since i am
an artist, i can do up my own design in photoshop.

??

[SpiffyShoes]

You can laminate it and then glue it on. But plexi or lexan looks and feels much better.

[NiteWalker]

Kinko's also does adheasive backed vinyl I think.

[Manx]

I've been wondering what the specifics and guidelines are for making stick graphics. Can some of you pros post some specs of common stick dimensions?

Does the plexi/Lexan hold the graphic vinyl in place, or is it affixed to the surface of the stick?

Also, is it a good idea to leave some area around your graphic and trim it to spec after you get it back from Kinkos?

Thanks for all the info, guys. :clap:

[AXE]

Reminding anyone that if they want help with any photoshop work for sticks I would love to do it

you can see some of my stuff at
http://axe187grider.deviantart.com/gallery/?view=1&order=5&limit=24
and
http://axe187grider.deviantart.com/gallery/?order=5&type=browse&offset=24
or at my website
http://www.jake.evilarchitects.com/main.html

[m0rphyx]

ok, another cord just fell off my pcb for the reflex hack. i dont have a digital cam right now, but for you to get an idea of how small these solder points are, check out the pic. im at the point now where im upset with this thing. i messed up and have solder on two points and the rest of the solder i had is very messy. would it just be best to buy another reflex stick and start from scratch or just solder and move on. keep in mind, this is my first stick AND my first time soldering. or maybe i should just take all the solder off the wires i already have done and start over.


Try tinning them, that means putting soldering on the wires (kind of like just galcing the wires with solder), so the soldering on the PCB can hold on to the soldering on the wires.

[Alexlexus]

You can laminate it and then glue it on. But plexi or lexan looks and feels much better.


really? that's great cause i can put the clear glass over it laters. i just want to get it on there now.

now m question is if i have the pelican real arcade (universal)
how would i fit a graphic on it?

[2BAD4U]

Hi, I'm thinking about making a 1-player stick. I made a 2-player not long ago and notice the buttons were a bit far away from each other, I used 1.5" between them with the ultimate buttons so because of the nuts (1-7/16), that is the closest I could lay them. My question is, if I use comp buttons, are the nuts the same or they are smaller so I can lay the buttons closer? I remember seeing a stick with the buttons really close, how is that possible?

[NiteWalker]

1.5 inches is what I used in the stick I built recently. It used comp buttons. I believe 1.5 is the standard.

[armad1ll0]

Capcom has used 1 1/2" and also 1 5/8" grids for the 6 button US design. The older designs are smaller.

Any plexiglass, acrylic or Lexan will hold the graphics in place. The US Happ type buttons will also keep your clear cover on top so there's often no need to use screws to hold it down.

You can design your button spread and distance to the joystick at any comfortable distance you like. It really doesn't matter as long as the player feels comfortable with it.

The underlays can also be printed on anything that will take the color and hold it for a good amount of time with out fading. It's doubtful that your sticks will also see dirrect sun.

[Gaijinblaze]

Arm, do you know the spacing between buttons on Japanese cabinets, like the Versus City type for example? Either imperial or metric is fine.

Thank you.

[Josh X]

Nitewalker:
How goes the progress on the box man?

[2BAD4U]

I was thinking..How would it look if instead of using wood and plexi for the top part, using only plexi? Wouldn't that be nice? Would be able to see everything through and I think it should be cool. Anyone done that before? How well does it go to make it this way? Well, when I say plexi, I mean something transparent, I would probably go with lexan. How sturdy would that be?

[Toodles]

Yeah, it can be done. I've seen pictures of a stick made only with plexi, two sheets with like 6 carriage bolts and nuts to keep them together at the proper distance. Looks snazzy, but I'd imagine it would scuff more than most. The only thing if you go this route for a 'visible stick' is that you are going to want THICK plexi, probly the .25" or greater thickness, so it can handle the mashing abuse. You'll also need to use carriage bolts to attach the stick to the plexi, and some people don't like the bolt heads on the surface; with plexi over wood, you can hide and countersink those into the wood, and never feel them with the plexi.

If you can drill and cut the plexi smoothly, it can be done and look nice.

[NiteWalker]

Nitewalker:
How goes the progress on the box man?

Just about done. I have to get the slot cutter for the t-molding and the art printed.

[2BAD4U]

Yeah, it can be done. I've seen pictures of a stick made only with plexi, two sheets with like 6 carriage bolts and nuts to keep them together at the proper distance. Looks snazzy, but I'd imagine it would scuff more than most. The only thing if you go this route for a 'visible stick' is that you are going to want THICK plexi, probly the .25" or greater thickness, so it can handle the mashing abuse. You'll also need to use carriage bolts to attach the stick to the plexi, and some people don't like the bolt heads on the surface; with plexi over wood, you can hide and countersink those into the wood, and never feel them with the plexi.

If you can drill and cut the plexi smoothly, it can be done and look nice.

The thickest lexan I could find was 1/4 but I think it should be ok, looked strong enough. Today I found a 2.5' X 2.5' laminated board for $4 but the color is like the wood pattern for wood furniture so I would like to paint it. Is this possible? What kind of coats should i use? Sry, I don't know much about painting stuff so I don't know what can be paint and what cannot.

Edit: Yeah, and another question, since I'd like to make a inclined stick but with laminated wood...what about the painted surface that I need to chop of to make it angled, can I use the laminate and glue it back or something?

[2BAD4U]

Nite, you said you usually use 4 in back and 3 in front, how do you screw the top piece to the back and front piece? Do you like cut the wood with an angle or there is something else we can do? I remember seeing once on the net I could put something under the top piece to make the connection flush?

[NiteWalker]

You can use wood filler to close the gaps. But what I like to do is cut the front and back pieces with an 8 degree angle on the long edge and that way everything fits nice and flush and tight. Also when assembling, I use wood glue and countersunk screws and the holes filled with wood putty. In the end everything is very tight fitting and looks as though there's nothing but glue holding it together. Works great

[Alexlexus]

my pelican universal mod is done, all i want to know now is it i put my agtec pcb in there will it work? and if it's the board can i use another dreamcast board pcb?

[SpiffyShoes]

You could put the agtec pcb into your universal if you wanted to. What you would need to do is wire the +5v wire from both pcbs together and then make a switch to toggle between which system is supplying the power. It isn't that hard if you can solder. Uhm if you decide to gut the agitec for it's pcb think you might be interested in selling the case?

[Alexlexus]

You could put the agtec pcb into your universal if you wanted to. What you would need to do is wire the +5v wire from both pcbs together and then make a switch to toggle between which system is supplying the power. It isn't that hard if you can solder. Uhm if you decide to gut the agitec for it's pcb think you might be interested in selling the case?

i will sell the case to you provided that this works. do you know for sure this will work? cause i don't want to ruing it........

[zapatistab]

You could put the agtec pcb into your universal if you wanted to. What you would need to do is wire the +5v wire from both pcbs together and then make a switch to toggle between which system is supplying the power. It isn't that hard if you can solder. Uhm if you decide to gut the agitec for it's pcb think you might be interested in selling the case?

Darn it Spiffy, I would have asked him if you didn't!

[Alexlexus]

the 1st to show proof that this works and pics of it even will get the case. deal? cause i can't lose the pcb you know what i mean? i loved this stick since the day i got it and the only way i will part with it is if i can still use a stick on dreamcast.

[SpiffyShoes]

I haven't done it my self personally but Shin Ace has done it many times and well he is sort of the electronics guru around here.

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1938965&postcount=2388

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56608

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1572132&postcount=23

Depending on the pads your using you don't have to use a switch you could use diods to basically auto select the pcb to use. Diods supposedly doesn't work well with PSX pcb's because they use less power than all the rest of the gaming systems. I would think it wouldn't work well with a universal one either but a switch should work fine.

Alternatively if you didn't want to use a switch you could either use a jumber system like CigarBob did with his agitec stick or you could go with the project boxes method.

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77915

[Alexlexus]

You could put the agtec pcb into your universal if you wanted to. What you would need to do is wire the +5v wire from both pcbs together and then make a switch to toggle between which system is supplying the power. It isn't that hard if you can solder. Uhm if you decide to gut the agitec for it's pcb think you might be interested in selling the case?

do i really need a switch?

and do you have pics cause the only thin holding me back at this point is the switch caue i think i would only need it if i want to plug it into a few systems at once (=bad idea will short the board) i am taking the agetec apart and tell me what you want from the remains in case this works.


added section


good and bad news. the good news i got the hack done and i gutted the agetec so it's up for sale the case and the stick will come with it including buttons. remeber it was really gutted out .

now the good news.

http://img106.exs.cx/img106/548/picture0119xq.jpg
http://img106.exs.cx/img106/1702/picture0124nm.jpg
http://img106.exs.cx/img106/437/picture0136mr.jpg


more comming

the bad

the dreamcast seems to play it perfect but i need help added the switch to it caue it's causeing inferferance with the xbox and ps2 board. funny the dc has no issue but on xbox there is some .
example
when i do the motion for the dragon punch and hit kick it does a shoryuekn if using a shotokan character. but staning neutral and hitting buttons on by one it seems perfect. i winder what nthe deal is. so how do i put a switch in there cause i want this done by the time i get my SF:ac this week.

[SpiffyShoes]

Yeah, the only reason for the switch is to prevent the pcb's from recieving power from more than one console at a time. As long as you don't plug them both in at the same time you should be fine. One of the main reasons I would recomend a switch though is just to safe guard incase one of your friends who didn't know any better managed to plug them both in and power both consoles at the same time while you weren't looking.

Also you would want to try and combine the common ground from both PCB's. It might be a little hard to find the common ground on a universal PCB but there should be one on there some where.

Check this thread out for more info on finding the common ground.

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67415

I don't have any pics because I haven't done this particular mod yet. But I'm certain that it can be done and this method should work. Maybe Shin Ace could post some Pics but the only ones I've seen him post so far are ones of the outside of the box with multiple wires coming out.

The only thing I would want from the agtec would be the case and the start button. You could keep the joystick and action buttons if you wanted.

[SpiffyShoes]

Cool, I just sent you a PM.

[SpiffyShoes]

You can get some switches from Radio Shack.

http://www.radioshack.com/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F002%5F015%5F006&Page=1

Seems kind of funny that it would cause interference with the Xbox. You might consider either the jumper method or project box method. They are guaranteed to have no interference issues.

[Alexlexus]

for some odd reason it works perfect now.
??????????
100% on all 4 systems
GC
ps2
xbox
dreamcast

??

[SpiffyShoes]

lol, that's funny.
lets hope it stays working.

[Alexlexus]

I FINALLY GOT IT RUNNING HERE ARE SOME PICS OF ME PLAYING street fighter 3rd strike on dreamcast and some wiring.

any questiond i will help with an faq at some point.i might have to put a perminate vmu in there since i have to shut the lid to secure eveything but i wouldn't mind i got 3 of em and caise transfer the data.

http://img149.exs.cx/img149/8971/picture0168zy.jpg
http://img149.exs.cx/img149/7875/picture0193mj.jpg

update i put a vmu in there so i can save. don't put one with a screen in it , for some reason it screws things up. i used a 3rd part single card. now i can sav etc all in the stick.

[Toodles]

update i put a vmu in there so i can save. don't put one with a screen in it , for some reason it screws things up. i used a 3rd part single card. now i can sav etc all in the stick.
If you can, you might want to do what I did on my DC stick. Get a four-page third party memory card. Some use a little slider to select the page to use(Performance brand), and some use just a button to toggle between them (Pelican brand).Get one of the ones that use a button to toggle between pages, and wire that button up to a microswitch on the side of the stick. I've got so many CvS2 matches saved to the card in my stick that its sick.

Part of me is crying that you had to use an Agetec pcb, but it should work more reliably than any other. And add me to the list of peeps would want the casing :)

[Alexlexus]

i have a vmu like that, i kept it out cause i have other gane saves in there like shenmue ,ikaruga etc. only need the single card
cause i didn't want to cut the board up. one card clean and simple.

[VEGA_OMEGA]

Don't mind this post, it's for someone else

[Alexlexus]

update.......noooooo vmu when playing on xbox will messed with the signal i lost 3 ggxx live matches cause of it. so take it out duinr ps2 and xbox live use

[NiteWalker]

Don't mind this post, it's for someone else
Nevertheless it's a very nice box. Nice construction.

[saroorhai]

Here is the results my first attempt at at a custom stick. I used a competition joystick since I wasn't sure about wiring the p360. I painted the back side of the plexi to make it look kind of cool and shiny. I also left off the L buttons. Works great.

http://greatjoshofegypt.tripod.com/

[VEGA_OMEGA]

Nevertheless it's a very nice box. Nice construction.

i'll sell it for $25 which includes shipping if you interested!

[P. Gorath]

Im working on replacing some parts on my MAS stick (all of the parts) and I've got a few questions:

1. wtf are up with the mas buttons? It looks like there is a screw going through each switch keeping it lodged in the pushbuttons.

2. I have to clip the wires since they are soldered on, thus making them too short - I figure I need a combiner but am not quite sure what it is or what it looks like - and once I have that, what kind and how many wires do I need to get? just one spool and then cut them up and attach them to the combiner?

3. How do I fit the quick disconnects onto the ends of the wires?

4. I was planning on taking out the L1 and L2 buttons and just putting stoppers in. Do I have to keep those wires connected to something in order to complete a circuit or can I bypass them?

5. The mas stick is wired with a single copper wire going around and hitting the outside arm of all of the button and joystick switches - how do I recreate this with quick disconnects?

thanks

[Toodles]

Im working on replacing some parts on my MAS stick (all of the parts) and I've got a few questions:

1. wtf are up with the mas buttons? It looks like there is a screw going through each switch keeping it lodged in the pushbuttons.

2. I have to clip the wires since they are soldered on, thus making them too short - I figure I need a combiner but am not quite sure what it is or what it looks like - and once I have that, what kind and how many wires do I need to get? just one spool and then cut them up and attach them to the combiner?

3. How do I fit the quick disconnects onto the ends of the wires?

4. I was planning on taking out the L1 and L2 buttons and just putting stoppers in. Do I have to keep those wires connected to something in order to complete a circuit or can I bypass them?

5. The mas stick is wired with a single copper wire going around and hitting the outside arm of all of the button and joystick switches - how do I recreate this with quick disconnects?

thanks
1. I didnt notice any screws attaching the switches to the buttons, only attaching the switches to the stick. The parts were standard Happs parts on the one Ive worked on, and should be an easy swap, evern if you have to uncrew the switch. I assume you are familiar with how to clip the switches in and out, so try to do that carefully, and maybe you can use the same switches with the new buttons and avoid any de-soldering/crimping.

2.If you are careful, you can clip the wire right at the solder point and have enough room after adding the quick disconnect. Best would be to desolder it, but if the soldering job on your is as good as the one Ive seen, you should have plety of room; the disconnect will add about 1/4" in length.

3. If needed, srtip about 1/4" of insulation of, insert the wire into the disconnect, and use a crimper to squeeze the crap out of the disconnect onto the exposed wire.

4. Just in case you change you mind later, don't clip them more then you have to, and wrap the exposed ends in electrical tape. You don't have to do anything special to them.

5. clip or desolder them from the switch, and put both ends into the disconnect like in #3.

[P. Gorath]

thanks for the answers. A few more things I want to follow up on:



2.If you are careful, you can clip the wire right at the solder point and have enough room after adding the quick disconnect. Best would be to desolder it, but if the soldering job on your is as good as the one Ive seen, you should have plety of room; the disconnect will add about 1/4" in length.
I think one of the reasons it doesnt look as though I will have enough length after clipping is because the buttons that were originally in there used switches placed vertically, while the new competition buttons I am putting in have the switches laying horizontally in the pushbuttons.
5. clip or desolder them from the switch, and put both ends into the disconnect like in #3.
Can you show me what this looks like? So basically each quick disconnect is going to have a wire coming into it and then one going out of it and into the next QD, as opposed to the colored wires which are just one into each button?

[2BAD4U]

I'd like to maybe switch my standard spring in my ultimate to a heavy spring and I have 2 questions:

1) Will I be able to remove the C-clip without breaking it? cuz it seemed fragile

2) Is there somewhere I can buy it for cheap and without having to pay $7 for a $1-shipping?

[freeway4885]

I'd like to maybe switch my standard spring in my ultimate to a heavy spring and I have 2 questions:

1) Will I be able to remove the C-clip without breaking it? cuz it seemed fragile

2) Is there somewhere I can buy it for cheap and without having to pay $7 for a $1-shipping?when i got my c-clip stuck on my competition stick, i just got a sharp knife and popped it off. had to do it twice and havent noticed it be any weaker. you can also check lowes or any hardware store. i do know for sure that lowes has some or at least mine does. for size, im not sure. i bought a 7/32 one time and it wouldnt fit, but it almost was on there, so i would say jump up a few sizes. they are relatively cheap. a pack of 2 or 3 is 1.07 or 1.87 i think.


EDIT: just a quick question, how easy would it be to mod out a pelican real arcade universal stick? just wanted to put a comp stick and buttons in there. plan on modding a couple of those for my friends.

[P. Gorath]

ok so I daisy chain the common plug on the stick and button switches...does the end of it go somewhere on the pcb? Or just out into space?

[Toodles]

I think one of the reasons it doesnt look as though I will have enough length after clipping is because the buttons that were originally in there used switches placed vertically, while the new competition buttons I am putting in have the switches laying horizontally in the pushbuttons.

Sounds like your MAS is using the 'ultimate' (? i think thats what they're called) pushbuttons instead of the competition buttons on the one I saw. If there isn't enough wire the use whats there already, you may want to consider rewiring the whole thing. Adding small little extensions to each wire would make it rather crappy and likely unreliable. If you're putting QD's on the ground wires, then you might as well remove the original grounding wiring and do that part from scratch; I bet the colored wires would work as-is and reach ok.


ok so I daisy chain the common plug on the stick and button switches...does the end of it go somewhere on the pcb? Or just out into space? The common ground that connects all of the buttons and switches leads back to a single, probably black, wire on the pcb.

Can you show me what this looks like? So basically each quick disconnect is going to have a wire coming into it and then one going out of it and into the next QD, as opposed to the colored wires which are just one into each button?Sounds like you have right idea

[Josh X]

Not to go offtopic but has anyone heard from Nitewalker recently?
He building my box, and last time I heard anything from him was like 4 days ago. I'm hopin sumthing bad didn't happen to him cuz just after we last talked we had a nast snowstorm up here in NE, and I'm sure he was hit. I'm also hoping he ain't hosin me over or anything....

[P. Gorath]

thanks for the help, now some more questions from last nights work:

1. With the quick disconnects - do I fray the wire and run it through the two little hole things? or just keep it running between? And i seem to be having trouble crimping the quick disconnect on so it will stay. do I tie the wire and then crimp?

2. The wire through the commons ran into the digital/analog button which then ran into the pcb - is this the connection i have to keep?

3. Can I take out the digital/analog button altogether?

4. the common plug on the forward kick button had the copper wire same as all the others but it also had a blue wire coming from the common plug and going straight to the pcb to something labelled that started with a g. what is this? do i need it?

5. What kind of wire should I buy to make the common circuit?

[2BAD4U]

when i got my c-clip stuck on my competition stick, i just got a sharp knife and popped it off. had to do it twice and havent noticed it be any weaker. you can also check lowes or any hardware store. i do know for sure that lowes has some or at least mine does. for size, im not sure. i bought a 7/32 one time and it wouldnt fit, but it almost was on there, so i would say jump up a few sizes. they are relatively cheap. a pack of 2 or 3 is 1.07 or 1.87 i think.

Oh, that's cool if they have c-clips out there somewhere.

What about the spring? Where can I order it for cheap and pay the real shipping price of it, should be like $1 for shipping of this little spring...

[2BAD4U]

shh...that guy www-kidsplaythings-cc on ebay is selling the spring for 44 cents each! But he also ships them for $4.50!!! Ah man...finally found someone who does sell springs alone but is charging so much on shipping...anything else I can do?

[P. Gorath]

Ok, through research and with the very helpful pictures here http://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/madcatz2.htm I have answered all of my questions except:


2. The wire through the commons ran into the digital/analog button which then ran into the pcb - is this the connection i have to keep?

3. Can I take out the digital/analog button altogether?

4. the common plug on the forward kick button had the copper wire same as all the others but it also had a blue wire coming from the common plug and going straight to the pcb to something labelled that started with a g. what is this? do i need it?

I believe that the blue wire from question 4 is the ground wire connection to the pcb and not the digital/analogue button.

so really only question 3 needs answering

[2BAD4U]

Is it true that stretching out a spring will make it stronger?

[P. Gorath]

is 22 gauge awm wire the same as awg? radio shack didnt have ANY type awg wire, only awm.

[2BAD4U]

Cool, I found someone selling them for $1 each and only $2.5o for shipping, so that's $4.50 to upgrade my ultimate to super ultimate! :) sry, can't wait to get the springs. Does it make a big difference having stronger springs?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Is it true that stretching out a spring will make it stronger?

Well... sort of. It's the cheaper alternative to buying a hard spring. Just how you would stretch out the spring in a pen because its so weak and doesn't push out the ink stick inside type of deal. It's a temp fix. I use to do that before I bought hard springs for most of my sticks.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Alexlexus: I was just reading through your post about your uni arcade stick mod with the agetec and saw that you added artwork to your. My question is: do you have plexi over it or am I'm seeing something else? Anyway, nice work. :smile:

[Toodles]

is 22 gauge awm wire the same as awg? radio shack didnt have ANY type awg wire, only awm.
same thing.

[DragonSama]

Is there anyplace I can look to see a how to wire buttons/Joysitck to a PS1 Dual Shock? is there one for an X-box pad (offical or otherwise)?

[x_tremer]

yea... those hacks have been posted up numerous times. SEARCH

[NiteWalker]

Not to go offtopic but has anyone heard from Nitewalker recently?
He building my box, and last time I heard anything from him was like 4 days ago. I'm hopin sumthing bad didn't happen to him cuz just after we last talked we had a nast snowstorm up here in NE, and I'm sure he was hit. I'm also hoping he ain't hosin me over or anything....
Still here. Just got caught up in some junk. Everything's cool though and all projects are comin along great. We got a shitload of snow here and made trips to home depot a real pain in the ass...

[m0rphyx]

I hope some one can help me. I have a question. I'm gonna build my own ps2 joystick. I have decided to use the perfect 360º joystick. The pad that I have bought is a HIPGEAR pad. I have read that to power up the joystick i need a 5v source of power from the pad. I have checked my pad and it has written on it 8v. If any one knows if its ok to use the 8volts please let me know. If its not ok, could you please fill me in on what i could do. Thanks. Any help will be gratelly appreciated.

[ParryPerson]

Ok, this might be a stupid question, but...

With your sticks, do they move around alot? I have an old namco, and everytime I use it, I get fed up, because in the arcade I can use the stick without it sliding all over the place.

I guess I'll have to think of something when I make mine, maybe a sit down one?

Any ideas?

Also, IYO, 2 sticks, or one 2 player CP? Or maybe a 2 player CP that would hold twosticks to make it look like a 2 player CP?

EDIT: Is their anyway to find the pics on this thread without look thru ALL of it?

[freeway4885]

Ok, this might be a stupid question, but...

With your sticks, do they move around alot? I have an old namco, and everytime I use it, I get fed up, because in the arcade I can use the stick without it sliding all over the place.

I guess I'll have to think of something when I make mine, maybe a sit down one?

Any ideas?

Also, IYO, 2 sticks, or one 2 player CP? Or maybe a 2 player CP that would hold twosticks to make it look like a 2 player CP?

EDIT: Is their anyway to find the pics on this thread without look thru ALL of it?i used to play with my sticks in my lap, too many damn problems with sliding. then i made a small table to play my sticks on and no problems since. it also feels a hell of alot more comfortable this way. as for 2 player sticks, it depends. if you have enough room to keep them around and you have friends who play frequently, might as well. for me, barely any of my friends play fighting games and if they do, they dont even know what the hell to do with an arcade stick.

[blueoakleyz]

Could I play basically any game with a Sanwa stick? Anotherwards would a stick with just Sanwa be universally good?

[freeway4885]

Could I play basically any game with a Sanwa stick? Anotherwards would a stick with just Sanwa be universally good?well, you can, its all about how comfortable it is to you. for me, some 2d fighters are somewhat demanding in terms off dead zone. for example MvC2, one wrong directional input and it can be the end for you really. i would try both sanwa and happ on every game you play and stick with what works for you on each game. for me:

Happ:
Guily Gear XX Reload
CvsSNK 1 & 2
MvC2
Soul Calibur

Sanwa:
VF4 Evo
TTT
Tekken 4 & 5
KOF games
Dead or Alive Ultimate
SF3 Thrid Strike

[blueoakleyz]

well, you can, its all about how comfortable it is to you. for me, some 2d fighters are somewhat demanding in terms off dead zone. for example MvC2, one wrong directional input and it can be the end for you really. i would try both sanwa and happ on every game you play and stick with what works for you on each game. for me:

Happ:
Guily Gear XX Reload
CvsSNK 1 & 2
MvC2
Soul Calibur

Sanwa:
VF4 Evo
TTT
Tekken 4 & 5
KOF games
Dead or Alive Ultimate
SF3 Thrid Strike

Cool thanks
the only one I play on the Happ side is MVC2 but I can't find it for PS2 grr

I'm gonna put them on my arcade machine with MAME but I'll use Sanwa for other stuff

what I like about Sanwa is that it's like the old school NES Advantage joystick, so now I can play SMB3 again woot

[P. Gorath]

finished my stick this weekend and it worked!

i rule

[blueoakleyz]

There's no better feeling than custom making something that works

[SpiffyShoes]

I hope some one can help me. I have a question. I'm gonna build my own ps2 joystick. I have decided to use the perfect 360º joystick. The pad that I have bought is a HIPGEAR pad. I have read that to power up the joystick i need a 5v source of power from the pad. I have checked my pad and it has written on it 8v. If any one knows if its ok to use the 8volts please let me know. If its not ok, could you please fill me in on what i could do. Thanks. Any help will be gratelly appreciated.

I think 8v is a little high you might try and lower the voltage down to 5v or just buy an official PSX-DualShock. There should be some info on how to do it in the Official P360 Thread. Also are you sure your looking at the right power source. On Dualshock controllers there are two. One is supposed to be 9v for the rumble motors and the regular power is usually 3.5v.

[SpiffyShoes]

Ok, this might be a stupid question, but...

With your sticks, do they move around alot? I have an old namco, and everytime I use it, I get fed up, because in the arcade I can use the stick without it sliding all over the place.

I guess I'll have to think of something when I make mine, maybe a sit down one?

Any ideas?

Also, IYO, 2 sticks, or one 2 player CP? Or maybe a 2 player CP that would hold twosticks to make it look like a 2 player CP?

EDIT: Is their anyway to find the pics on this thread without look thru ALL of it?

Do you play with your Namco in your lap or on a table? I find that it slides around a little bit in my lap. But because of the rubber pads on the bottom I don't tend to have a problem with it sliding if I use it on a table.

Personally I preffer 2 Single player sticks because a 2 player one is more of a pain to drag in/out of the closet whenever your not using it. If you do decide to go with a 2 player panel though you can get a pre-made panel with vinyl and molding on it from GameCap.com (http://www.gamecab.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2pdlvnl) for only $53.50 + Shipping. Which is an excelent price and well worth it.

[blueoakleyz]

Should I angle the face of my Tekken 5 control panel I'm making or should I just leave it flat?

[SpiffyShoes]

Angled is more comfortable but it is also considerably more work so it is really up to you.

[blueoakleyz]

not for my dad he's a pro cabinet maker lol

the problem I have now is I got a sheet of lexan but it's less than 1/8", will it still hold the buttons well? I'll probably put a piece of wood under it to support it some

[blueoakleyz]

I'm making a custom box and I think I'm going to go 10" by 15", is that good ?

Also since this isn't an arcade machine what's a good angle?
I'm thinking 20 degrees

[SpiffyShoes]

I didn't know they sold lexan less than 1/8" thick. Did you get it from a specialty store or something? The lexan should still hold the buttons well enough. You should drill the hole in the wood the same size as the lexan. The wood keeps the button from falling through the hole and the lexan keeps the button from popping out the top.

[SpiffyShoes]

I'm making a custom box and I think I'm going to go 10" by 15", is that good ?

Also since this isn't an arcade machine what's a good angle?
I'm thinking 20 degrees
10" x 15" is a bit big for my personal taste but it is really up to you. Most people that use sanwa parts tend to like their joysticks to be smaller.

The blue prints on The-Darkside's (http://www.byrdo.org/small_sanwa_blueprint.htm) website is a good size in my opinion.

[CHAM CHAM]

OK...i have a stupid question... so do not all maul me at onece... (please form a line starting here)

so... lets say i wanted to wire up 2 different controllers(a dc and a basic ps) to one joystick. is there a way that i can hook up both controllers at the same time so all i would have to do is switch plugs. is this even possible with basic controller boards?

i know you can do it with universal controllers but with the extra controllers i have here, buying a new means i still the leftovers. is there a solution to this or do i just have to disconnect one and reconnect the other?

[SpiffyShoes]

Uhh, didn't you ask that question all ready? I'm almost certain you did and it was answered too.

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18815&page=159&pp=15

Also it was answered again for Alexlexus just a few pages back.

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18815&page=174&pp=15

[CHAM CHAM]

I's been a while since i even thought about this question but i probably did. I do not remember the reply from shin but the links you posted seem to answer exactly what i'm looking for. Thanx again.

[freeway4885]

just a quick post, still looking at modding a Pelican Real Arcade stick, need some help real quick:

1. Any links to directions? Is it pretty self explanitory and easy?

2. What could i use to put art work on it. would it make sense to get some type of stick on artwork instead of trying lexan and all that?

3. How easy is it to mount happ stick in there?

[x_tremer]

Its pretty easy... Just disconnect the wires from the old controls.. remove the buttons/stick. Strip the wires and solder/disconnect them on the new ones. Very easy.

You could print out artwork and screw some plexi/lexan over it.... Or just stick some printed artwork on it. If you are gonna put artwork on a stick.. you should just build a new box since the pelicans box doesnt look to good.

Happ sticks are easy to mount 5 min job.

[freeway4885]

Its pretty easy... Just disconnect the wires from the old controls.. remove the buttons/stick. Strip the wires and solder/disconnect them on the new ones. Very easy.

You could print out artwork and screw some plexi/lexan over it.... Or just stick some printed artwork on it. If you are gonna put artwork on a stick.. you should just build a new box since the pelicans box doesnt look to good.

Happ sticks are easy to mount 5 min job.thats cool, ive mounted a happ stick in my own box before, just didnt know if there would be any difference with this. this stick is basically something to hold me over while im in school because im running very low on time to try and build my own one. also, i can sell this one to one of my friends whenever im ready to make another custom stick. i hear that some people use the actual switches that came with the pelican buttons when they do the hack. is that necessary? would it be better to use happ switches or pelican's switches?

[Toodles]

Does any have, or can any take for me, a few pics of the PCB in the large pelican stick; doesn't matter if its xbox only or a universal; I need to get an idea of the size of the thing to see if its worth getting one to use in a project box arrangement.

If anyone has one around, a pic next to a ruler would be wonderful. If anyone has any suggestions on a small pcb for xbox suitable for a project box job (With common ground, which knocks the reflex stick out, and reliable which knocks the red octane right out) please let me know.

[blueoakleyz]

Would anyone be interested in a presoldered/pre wired Playstation PCB? ends will have quick disconnects

[vid33nyc1]

wasup guys.Does anyone know where to buy custom arcade sticks or know someone that makes them.I bought the x-arcade and i dont like it.The character reaction time is late when pressing the buttons.Its going back to the store.Any suggestions?I need one to play street fighter on xbox live.thanks

[Toodles]

You just completely missed the 'FOR SALE: Custom arcade sticks' type posts on your way in?

[vid33nyc1]

o man.I found another post.alphaelectronics.com has a deal.Buy a mas system joystick and streetfighter for xbox and get like 10 bucks off.Know any better deals?i really want this joystick.When you customize the joystick what is better the competition joystick or the perfect 360 joystick?

[freeway4885]

still looking for help about the pelican real arcade hack. ive read through the thread about it and the only question i have is in terms of wiring. i know you can use the stock switches but i really dont feel like opening the thing back up if pelican's swithces mess up so in terms of wiring, could i just put the pcb wires through a barrier strip then take the wires to the microswitches and quick disconnect them? it seems like more work, but is it really worth it. read through the thread about it being somewhat hard to get all the wires to reach if you're using the crimping technique.

[Toodles]

Replacing the stock switches is highly recommended. You could put the wires form the pcb into a barrier strip, and then another wire from the barrier strip to the switches. Personally, Im all for molex connectors over barrier strips in that situation, but thats just opinion. If you're worried about the wires being short for quick disconnects after you clip them from the original switch, barrier strip or molex connector will work. 'Is it worth it' is the big question. Replacing the pelican switches with the ones that came wiht your Happs parts? Hell yeah, do it, no questions. Using a barrier strip: Err, prolly not unless you plan on a lot of rework. If the wires end up too short, you can always use a butt end crimp connector, or the tried and true 'twist, solder, and wrap in electrical tape' methods of wire extension.

Whenever you crack that thing open, do me a favor and measure the pcb so I know how big it is, maybe a close picture if you're feeling generous.

[vlkyr]

is it true that it takes like 5 seconds to change a square gate to octagonal and vice versa? is it really that simple?

[freeway4885]

also have one quick question, when you guys use barrier strips, how do you mount them? glue, screws, or what? in the last stick i made i glued it down, but then again, it was the european style barrier strip.

[2BAD4U]

I screw them, hold best this way.

[NiteWalker]

I'm making a custom box and I think I'm going to go 10" by 15", is that good ?

Also since this isn't an arcade machine what's a good angle?
I'm thinking 20 degrees

8 degrees is a great angle. 20 is a bit steep. As for the top size go with whatever you're comfortable with.

[freeway4885]

i plan on getting the two saturn hori pcb's by next week. exactly how do you hack these or wire them up for use? is a solder or solderless hack? if i have to sodder, is it a tough job? here is a pic of it but when i get it im gonna do a more up close picture. Saturn Hori PCB (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mode879/detail?.dir=686e&.dnm=2c0b.jpg&.src=ph)

[ParryPerson]

Instead of making a new thread, maybe you guys could chime in,

I'm going with the capcom fighter layout, but I want to make this SNK friendly, so where should I put that extra button (or would you even put another one in)? To the left of the buttons, in the middle? The far right top, making it for strait buttons in a row? The bottom left, below and to the left of the bottom butons? or either of those on the right side?

[Toodles]

Either keep the 3x2 layout, and use short for A, and the punch row for B, C and D; or use a japanese layout, which makes using those same buttons even more comfortable. I have seen anyone try to merge the two in a way that wasn't totally uncomfortable.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Where do you guys get pictures of character? Can not find anything good on the net.

[SpiffyShoes]

The websites listed in the Official Artwork Resources (http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61082) thread are a good place to start. In particular http://www.kawaiidream.net is a good one.

Hey Parry, did you ever solve your problem with your namco stick sliding around? If not have you considered putting some wheights in it? I tried adding about 10 lbs worth of weights into one temporarily just to see how it would affect it and it definently helped. It was very hard to get it to move around in my lap with the extra pounds in there. Even just 5 lbs would make a considerable difference. If I was going to keep them inside the case perminently, you probably could stick a piece of cloth in there to keep them from moving around. Or you could use some plaster or something.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

SpiffyShoes
Cant find any good Yun character pictures from 3rd strike. You know any? Must be with his white cap on.

[Gaijinblaze]

And here's the pcb. Sooooooo easy to solder to. You can just use the little silver dots as your solder points. For a ground I usually scrape the gree stuff off of the part to the left of the square button spot and solder to that. Very easy and lots of room to work with.

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41429

I know that post is really old, but I just got the same pad from a friend to use for a stick. However, I can't figure out where to solder for the shoulder buttons; it looks like there's 2 silver points for each one. All the other buttons (and the ground, thanks to your post) seem self-explanatory enough.

Thanks to anyone who can help. It's a Mad Catz PSX pad by the way.

[True_Tech]

SpiffyShoes
Cant find any good Yun character pictures from 3rd strike. You know any? Must be with his white cap on.
i got a good one but you'll have to find someone to change the colors for you http://img160.exs.cx/img160/1637/yun8mi.png

[NeREMIXED]

is it possible to add artwork to a non woodbased case?

im thinking of modding my DC agetec (green goblin) and putting art on it.

[ultra-magnus]

The websites listed in the Official Artwork Resources (http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61082) thread are a good place to start. In particular http://www.kawaiidream.net is a good one.

Hey Parry, did you ever solve your problem with your namco stick sliding around? If not have you considered putting some wheights in it? I tried adding about 10 lbs worth of weights into one temporarily just to see how it would affect it and it definently helped. It was very hard to get it to move around in my lap with the extra pounds in there. Even just 5 lbs would make a considerable difference. If I was going to keep them inside the case perminently, you probably could stick a piece of cloth in there to keep them from moving around. Or you could use some plaster or something.

What kind of weights did you use? Cos weight does make a big difference.

[ParryPerson]

Hey Parry, did you ever solve your problem with your namco stick sliding around? If not have you considered putting some wheights in it? I tried adding about 10 lbs worth of weights into one temporarily just to see how it would affect it and it definently helped. It was very hard to get it to move around in my lap with the extra pounds in there. Even just 5 lbs would make a considerable difference. If I was going to keep them inside the case perminently, you probably could stick a piece of cloth in there to keep them from moving around. Or you could use some plaster or something.

Great idea! I was still having problems with it, and this is probably going to do the trick!

[freeway4885]

quick question, how do you do shadow effects like the one shown here: http://www.byrdo.org/images/Arcade%20Stiks/Slick%20Stik1.jpg. basically want to put shadows under my characters like ken and akuma have on that artwork. if it helps, im working with photoshop cs. everytime i try and do shaddows it just puts them behind the character instead of under. i guess it might have something to do with where you define the light at in the artwork.

[Reaper]

whats the esaiest pcb to hack for xbox to so far the only thing i have seen is the games reflex arcade stick but any other sugestion would be helpful

[x_tremer]

freeway, im pretty sure those shadows are custom made and there is no way to actually add a shadow like that. Darkside is an awesome artist so its probably easy for him.

[SpiffyShoes]

There are several ways that it could be done. Free handing it is one way. You could also go in and make a shadow copy of the character and then use some distorts, 3D renders, and blur filters to get a similar effect. Also I wouldn't be surprised if there are some filters/actions out there that you could download for photoshop that would make the shadow for you.

[freeway4885]

thanks, ill try and check up on it later tonight or tomorrow. i know with some time, skill, and creativity so much can be done with photoshop.

[Tha-Darkside]

quick question, how do you do shadow effects like the one shown here: http://www.byrdo.org/images/Arcade%20Stiks/Slick%20Stik1.jpg. basically want to put shadows under my characters like ken and akuma have on that artwork. if it helps, im working with photoshop cs. everytime i try and do shaddows it just puts them behind the character instead of under. i guess it might have something to do with where you define the light at in the artwork.

There's several ways to do it but two of the easiest ways are 1) Freehanding it on a separate layer then blurring the edges and 2) In Illustrator I create a drop shadow, ungroup it then shear it in the direction I want. I usually use both photoshop & illustrator and oddly enough, I've never tried making one using this method in photoshop but it may still apply, I'll have to look into it. You'll have to mess around with the drop shadow angles to get it to look as if its meant to be there, but it doesn't take long once you get the hang of it.

[Josh X]

Still here. Just got caught up in some junk. Everything's cool though and all projects are comin along great. We got a shitload of snow here and made trips to home depot a real pain in the ass...
Any more info man? I know you said today would be the tentative ship date. Would be cool if it was on it's way, cuz we live pretty close so it would get here before the weekend. :clap:

[DragonSama]

Ok I have a question I finaly have (I think) everything I need to build my stick this weekend. I bought some 3/4 inch thick plyboard (I think that will work ok. Now I was wondering how do you get the board edges around the artwork looking so smooth? Are you using a molding of some type?

Also how think of a plexi glass should I use? And can I drill holes through it or do I have to use other methods?

[blueoakleyz]

is 18 gauge wire too thick for PS2 wiring?

[tuelpo]

DragonSama,

the smoothness is either through applying wood putty and sanding to a smooth finish,(nice if you want some fancy paint) or more often via "T-molding" which is a plastic strip shaped like the letter T with the base of the "T" fitting into a thin slot you cut in the middle of the wood.

On another note though, you might want to get some medium density fiberboard. I've had problems with ply due to the larger particles used to make the board itself which make it more prone to "chipping"

You can drill plexi, but drilling Lexan is easier yet more expensive. But really, you're dealing in a small enough piece that the difference is marginal.

The standard I believe is 1/8th plexi/lexi.

[xXxDa_RaGexXx]

I have a couple of good pictures of charaters, I was wondering what program would I use to blend it into one picture like http://www.byrdo.org/images/Arcade%...ick%20Stik1.jpg

[2BAD4U]

Finally got my heavy springs for my ultimates today, put them on and I have to say it's a big difference. I will need some time to get used to them though. Just wanted to share it with you guys.

[DarkChylde]

I have a couple of good pictures of charaters, I was wondering what program would I use to blend it into one picture like http://www.byrdo.org/images/Arcade%...ick%20Stik1.jpg

Photoshop.

[xXxDa_RaGexXx]

After I put everything together in Photoshop do I have to take it to a special place so they can print it? Or Is a high end colour printer good enough??

[2BAD4U]

After I put everything together in Photoshop do I have to take it to a special place so they can print it? Or Is a high end colour printer good enough??

Well shouldn't you print it on vinyle or something like that? I don't what kind of printer you have but they usually print on paper... and I don't think paper would work

[DarkChylde]

Just depends on how picky you are about the quality of the picture. Vinyl should only be used if you don't have lexan/plexi to cover the art because it's more expensive to print on, and the quality of the picture is lowered.

[2BAD4U]

Just depends on how picky you are about the quality of the picture. Vinyl should only be used if you don't have lexan/plexi to cover the art because it's more expensive to print on, and the quality of the picture is lowered.

So what should it be printed on? if I have plexi.

[NiteWalker]

I know that post is really old, but I just got the same pad from a friend to use for a stick. However, I can't figure out where to solder for the shoulder buttons; it looks like there's 2 silver points for each one. All the other buttons (and the ground, thanks to your post) seem self-explanatory enough.

Thanks to anyone who can help. It's a Mad Catz PSX pad by the way.
Sorry to answer a bit late. See the pic for the L/R 1 and 2 points.
R and L map (http://www.geocities.com/nitewalkerforever/rl.JPG)

[NiteWalker]

DragonSama:
I definitely recommend lexan over plain plexi. Lexan doesn't chip or crack or anything like that. It's only about $2-$3 more than the cheap stuff but it makes up for it in no lost panels/cracks.

blueoakleyz:
I'd say go with 22 awg stranded.