The Official Custom Arcade Sticks Thread [Archive] - Page 12

thaBadGuy

03-17-2005, 12:07 PM

aZnNYoo

03-17-2005, 08:16 PM

I wanted to paint my agetec case and I was wondering if anyone had any tips. I searched the forum and from what i gleamed i need to
1.sand it
2.add adhesive primer
3.sand
4 2nd primer coat
5.paint
Is this the right method and also what type/brand paint should i use and what grade sand paper for plastic? I want a semi or high gloss job
thanks

This is the common way to paint wood, but what I did with my agetec was spray paint it with plastic enamel. This paint doesn't need a primer as it bonds with the plastic. All you need then is a top coat to protect and produce a nice gloss. I bought these spray paints at Lowes for about $5.

2BAD4U

03-17-2005, 10:43 PM

I'm making this one for a friend of mine, what do you think about it? I guess it's gonna look pretty much like the one in the picture.

I'll use a 1/2 inch lexan only for the top part, will it be strong enough?

Edit: oh well, for some reason I can't upload the file, it says something about exceeding the forum maximum size of 886 mb or something like that.

Toodles

03-17-2005, 11:45 PM

I'll use a 1/2 inch lexan only for the top part, will it be strong enough?

1/2" thick lexan in the rough size/shape of a normal arcade stick would likely support a motorcycle; Umm, yeah, itll be just peachy, and scratches will be a much bigger worry than strength. Too thick for Japanese parts, but american parts will work just fine.

2BAD4U

03-18-2005, 07:15 PM

1/2" thick lexan in the rough size/shape of a normal arcade stick would likely support a motorcycle; Umm, yeah, itll be just peachy, and scratches will be a much bigger worry than strength. Too thick for Japanese parts, but american parts will work just fine.

Well I use happ parts and for my last stick I used 3/4 wood + 1/8 plexi so I guess 1/2 would be perfect.

thedon777

03-18-2005, 09:32 PM

hey guys im in the middle of making a custom stick and I want to know if barrier strips are needed, and what they are for.

can i just solder my wires to the pcb and my disconnects and onto the buttons?

DarkChylde

03-18-2005, 09:47 PM

A barrier strip isn't necessary, just do what you stated last and you will be fine.

DrAgO_

03-19-2005, 05:31 AM

how place artwork on the top panel ?

x_tremer

03-19-2005, 02:26 PM

lol..... dont be an idiot buddy.. use your head..

2BAD4U

03-20-2005, 12:03 AM

well I couldn't find 1/2 inch lexan... thought remembering seeing it somewhere...oh well, will 1/4 be strong enough then? The size of the stick is about 10x13

thedon777

03-20-2005, 08:42 AM

im using the ps1 dualshock pcb and I have a question about soldering the grounds. I read that all grounds are the same so can I take as many wires needed and solder them all at once to that one ground?

DarkChylde

03-20-2005, 09:26 AM

You should just daisy chain it, have a wire touching all of the buttons and stick microswitches and the ground.

thedon777

03-20-2005, 09:35 AM

what exactly do you mean by daisy chaining?

I already have my buttons soldered onto my pcb, just not the ground.

THChardcore

03-20-2005, 02:44 PM

what exactly do you mean by daisy chaining?

I already have my buttons soldered onto my pcb, just not the ground.

Daisy chain is simply just running small wires from one ground to another in a chain like so

()-----()-----()
l
l
()-----()-----()

Brutal E

03-20-2005, 03:19 PM

I did a Streetfighter arcade stick mod with Happ parts came out so good I cannibalized the other stick I had. Its guts I used for a table with drawers, with the stick on top.(Little furniture piece) Live support. It works for PS2 and Xbox. It came out great and I am going to walmart tonight and buying 2 of these cheap cabinets and doing them with all the Happ parts for a matching set. Is the eight button slanted preferred to the eight parallel? Where can I get a template for printing? Maybe a couple of them to compare. Thanks in advance.

thedon777

03-20-2005, 05:02 PM

Im still confused on how to daisy chain my ground, a pic would help.

at the moment im thinking of just using multiple wires and grounding them all.

LTK

03-20-2005, 05:37 PM

http://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/madcatz2.htm

There are a couple of pics and instructions on how to daisy chain the ground. It shouldn't be too hard.

thedon777

03-20-2005, 06:38 PM

thanks a lot, that really helped!!

judomacdaddy

03-20-2005, 08:36 PM

Does anybody know where I can find a guide to modding a psx h series pad to happ or sanwa parts?

Brutal E

03-20-2005, 10:31 PM

Button templates?

thedon777

03-21-2005, 04:04 PM

is bending the wire nessesary when putting on the disconnects?

CHAM CHAM

03-21-2005, 04:25 PM

Button templates?

http://arcadecontrols.com/files/Miscellaneous/CapcomTemplate/Capcom_2P-6B_Template.gif

DarkChylde

03-21-2005, 11:32 PM

is bending the wire nessesary when putting on the disconnects?
No, just as long as it stays inside the QD, bending it isn't quite necessary, but it adds more wire inside the "sleeve" it would come loose as easily.

Urzakor

03-22-2005, 01:25 AM

question, has anyone here modded one of the newer Red Octane stix yet? I'd just like to see how difficult it'd be to change the sticks/buttons to either happ or sanwa depending on how much money I have later on.

would a happ stick fit if u made a new bottom for it? as in putting one over the bottom, rather between the 4 walls or would it still be a tight fit?

DonNozzle

03-22-2005, 05:20 AM

recently had to move and my MAS stick got messed up in the move. the top part with the joystick and buttons came off and 2 of the wires came off the circut board, i was thinking of selling it because i wanted a new one anyway, its set up on the ps1 controller so it doesn't work with xbox :(. its the 6 button nova stick. i can send pictures if needed. if anyone wants to buy it i will except offers. i was wondering where i could find a site that could show me where to solder the wires at back on the circuit board. i know i don't post here much but it would help me alot, without using an arcade stick fighting games arnt the same :(. thanks

DarkChylde

03-22-2005, 08:00 AM

Urzakor: Changing it to Happs shouldn't be a big problem, just a simple swap. If the stick is too long for the box, just chisel away some of the bottom. Sanwa parts though were ment to be mounted on thin metal plates, so mounting in a wooden box would require lots of extra work. Check the Sanwa modding thread for more info.

DonNozzle: Soldering guide (http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/solder.htm)

SpiffyShoes

03-22-2005, 10:42 AM

Urzakor: I've only modded one and it turned out that the plexi was cut correctly for sanwa parts so you only had to modify the wood. It is pretty easy to enlarge the holes in the wood with a metal file for the buttons. If you wanted to put a sanwa joystick in there you would need to top mount it. A happ joystick is just slightly too big to fit in it though. It would be ok though if you made a thicker bottom or just left the bottom off.

Urzakor

03-22-2005, 05:06 PM

mmk - thanks guys. looks like I'll be goin with a RO mod since I don't want to have to deal with a PCB right now.

to top mount a sanwa stick, I know what I have to do... but would I be able to do it with just a dremel or should I look for a router somewhere? I'm not that proficient with woodworking so iono. I was thinkin I could just do the brunt of the work by shaving/cutting it with teh dremel then using a metal file to touch it up.

ParryPerson

03-23-2005, 10:03 AM

Alright, I'm fixing to try to hack 2 PS1 Dual Shocks I have, I was going to go the spiffyshoes solderless hack, but in the time in takes to find 2 pads with a ribbon terminal, I could learn to solder and it be done with. (I already have one easy hack A-Series, but I can't find another one)

So I guess I need a Soldering check list, what should I buy?

Wal-Mart has a package with solder, a 25watt gun, and something else, I forget.

Radio Shack has a 30watt with solder and more stuff for the iron, for the same price.

Which one should I get? What wattage?

Any tips for hacking a PS1 Dual Shock? I have 2 I hack by soldering, they look different, but the board looks the same. I'll be trying to copy J&D's hack from the picture.

I'm confused about grounds, do I just need one ground running from the stick to one of the D-Pad ground and one from one of the button grounds?
I'd be daisy chaining the ground from button to button.

Sorry, but this is a handy skill to have, and I searched this thread, but nothing I searched for came up. Thanks.

lilblackino

03-23-2005, 01:06 PM

I have A SFAS and i want to put a perfect 360 in it, Is it possible? if so all i need to know is were does the ground and the 5v cord go?

A.C

03-23-2005, 01:22 PM

Which one should I get? What wattage?

I'm confused about grounds, do I just need one ground running from the stick to one of the D-Pad ground and one from one of the button grounds?
I'd be daisy chaining the ground from button to button.

Sorry, but this is a handy skill to have, and I searched this thread, but nothing I searched for came up. Thanks.

There is a *TON* of information in this thread - let alone forum. Any question you can ask has been asked somewhere here before. But yes, ground is ground. Daisy chaining is ok. And use a 15W iron - safest way to solder the PCB without burning it up.

Ganzi Kazuya

03-23-2005, 01:51 PM

I bought a happ competition stick and i'm not sure what the e-ring is there for. How am I supposed to stick it to the sheft? And also, are 1/4" drill bit and 3/16" carrige bolts good sizes for securing the stick on the wood panel?
thanks in advance!

ParryPerson

03-23-2005, 03:00 PM

There is a *TON* of information in this thread - let alone forum. Any question you can ask has been asked somewhere here before. But yes, ground is ground. Daisy chaining is ok. And use a 15W iron - safest way to solder the PCB without burning it up.

Yeah I know, I read this whole thread before, and then I searched, I tried putting in "soldering" "wattage" "daisy chaining" "Ground"

I couldn't find the answers I really needed, and you can't expect new people (even though I'm not, new account.) to try and look at this whole thing before asking questions, maybe rotendo could make the first post a compliation of all the basic info here.

thedon777

03-23-2005, 05:56 PM

quick question about quick disconnects

Do I insert the wire through the red plastic part and go no further or do I put it through one of the holes? (left on of right)

thanks.

DarkChylde

03-23-2005, 08:14 PM

I bought a happ competition stick and i'm not sure what the e-ring is there for. How am I supposed to stick it to the sheft?
After assembling the stick and mounting it then just push the actuator down some and there should be an indention which you slide the e-clip on. It also helps if you have another person helping you.

quick question about quick disconnects

Do I insert the wire through the red plastic part and go no further or do I put it through one of the holes? (left on of right)

thanks.
Just make sure the wire itself it touching some part of the metal of the QD and that it is on securely.

Toodles

03-24-2005, 07:44 PM

Just wanted to drop a note about the Namco stick I just modded. Most people know that the sanwa shaft is too long to use, and use the original namco shaft instead. The downside is that the top of the shaft above the housing is shorter than a normal sanwa. I instead used the shaft and actuator from a hori stick taken out of a Tekken 5 stick; the length of the shaft below the housing is exactly the same length as the original namco shaft, and the length above the housing is exactly the same length as a true sanwa.

ParryPerson

03-24-2005, 08:32 PM

I just found out SNAAAKE uses a 30watt iron. RadioShack had a deal with a 30watt, some solder, and a bunch of other stuff in one pack for 5 bucks.

I instead got a 15watt iron (grounded) by itself for 8 bucks.

Ah well.

Is flux needed for a soldering noob? I got ALPHA FRY 63/37 ROSIN FLUX CORE SOLDER. Do I need a seperate thing of flux?

DarkChylde

03-24-2005, 08:54 PM

For soldering to the microswitches no addictional flux is needed, but for soldering to a PCB, flux will help out a lot especially if this is your first time.

Shin-RoTeNdO

03-25-2005, 01:45 AM

Grounding is in here... somewhere. You have to remember that there was a time when SRK had gone down and lost some info and a few posts were lost and within that time frame. In that time (which was like a day or two of posts), a lot of really good info that was posted was lost with the 'crash' or whatever and SRK came back up using the latest backup that was a few days old. Anyway...

There is a great deal about the grounding. Using two grounds. One for your controls, then another for you buttons alone. For some pcbs, that is how it is setup if you look at it closely. You'll see one ground trace for the directional controls, then another ground trace for the buttons. I've experimented with using a massive daisy chain ground for everything, then daisy chain ground for one and the other. I've had times where the start would not want to work with the buttons ground for some odd reason, then I would switch it to the controls ground and it would be fine. I'm no electrician or circuit board experts, but I do have a friend that is and it's his job. He explained it to me once, but that was a long time ago and I forgot. Best thing to do would be to use a multi meter to check to see if the connection is good or not. Look at the wattage for each connection. That plays a good factor in soldering a good connection. I hope that helps any.

lilblackino: I don't have a SFAS so I couldn't tell you unless you took a pic of your pcb. You can also use an external source for your power if you want to avoid soldering onto your board.

Ganzi Kazuya: Place the stick on a surface or against yourself, then with one hand push down on the square actuator, and with your other hand (w/e-clip) slip on the e-clip on the rod/shaft. <<< LOL... slip on...

lilblackino

03-25-2005, 07:41 AM

RoTeNdO: Thanks for the response i will go take the pics now, i don't want to really use an external source for power but if i have to i will.

thedon777

03-26-2005, 10:00 PM

I soldered all my connections on my first try and they all worked! wow I must be pretty lucky. anyways my stick is done, its plain but it works.

I have a question though, are competition sticks suppose to spring back in place when i let them go after holding them in a position?

2BAD4U

03-26-2005, 10:25 PM

Quick question:
Is there a way to remove light scratches on lexan?

Master Chibi

03-26-2005, 11:31 PM

Hey I was wondering if it was possible to take out the buttons on the HRAP and replace with Sanawa buttons? I myself wouldn't do it, but I was curious to see if I could ask around or if it could actually be done regardless of the matter.

Toodles

03-27-2005, 12:10 AM

Fantomize

03-27-2005, 03:21 AM

Check this ps2 control out. Finally.
http://europe.thrustmaster.com/products/d_prd.php?p=T174&fam=5
http://hardware.gamespot.com/Story-ST-15141-1347-28-31-x

I would like to use this on a stick one day. No converters to buy. The only thing is i never seen the inside and is it compatible with GC and Xbox controler adapters.

Master Chibi

03-27-2005, 09:57 AM

Yes, very doable. There are quick disconnects that make attaching it to the wire very simple.

Well I've never done such a thing before, so I'm a complete noob, so is there any risk in my fucking something up, or do I need like fourteen pieces of equipment just to do it?

DarkChylde

03-27-2005, 10:36 AM

Well I've never done such a thing before, so I'm a complete noob, so is there any risk in my fucking something up, or do I need like fourteen pieces of equipment just to do it?
It's a very simple swap. All the tools you will need are a standard size phillips screwdriver, and some needle nosed pliers. And not to sound mean or anything, but if you mess this mod up, you're retarded. :xeye:

thedon777

03-27-2005, 10:42 AM

Master Chibi

03-27-2005, 10:45 AM

It's a very simple swap. All the tools you will need are a standard size phillips screwdriver, and some needle nosed pliers. And not to sound mean or anything, but if you mess this mod up, you're retarded. :xeye:

Well that's why I'm still nervous, I really never have tinkered with a joystick before, and seeing as how I did spend a good deal of money on this one I don't want to bust it open and fuck it up due to my complete ignorance.

Ideally I'd like to change the ball of the stick too, and have the entire thing be red (stick and buttons) but that still leaves the start, select, and turbo sliders.

;|

NeREMIXED

03-27-2005, 11:03 AM

im trying to order from himura games but he hasn't got back to me as to how to order.

ive sent him the email of what i wanted and i got my price back but that's all after that.

ParryPerson

03-27-2005, 03:03 PM

2 questions:

is the happ competition stick suppose to spring back into place when it is let go off?

Im having trouble pulling off moves, could it be the way I installed the joystick or do I have to get use to it? if something is wrong with the way i installed it what should I look out for?

thanks

I don't get it. What joystick have you played that DOESN'T spring back to center? You have played in ANY arcade before, right? Of course it's supposed to spring back to center, unless you ment your stick DOESN'T spring back to center.....

DarkChylde

03-27-2005, 07:59 PM

Well that's why I'm still nervous, I really never have tinkered with a joystick before, and seeing as how I did spend a good deal of money on this one I don't want to bust it open and fuck it up due to my complete ignorance.

Ideally I'd like to change the ball of the stick too, and have the entire thing be red (stick and buttons) but that still leaves the start, select, and turbo sliders.

;|
It's a rediculously simple mod, just crack it open, and replace the buttons.
im trying to order from himura games but he hasn't got back to me as to how to order.

ive sent him the email of what i wanted and i got my price back but that's all after that.
Just send the money and as soon as he gets your payment, he'll send out the order. I had added buttons to my order late and he still shipped em out. Rod is awesome to deal with.

2BAD4U

03-27-2005, 10:28 PM

DarkChylde

03-27-2005, 10:56 PM

...Since noone answered my question, I'll ask it again and I hope you guys can help me with my project. I'm building a stick for a friend with a lexan top piece only. The thing is that during the building process, the piece got kinda sratched and I was wondering if there's anything I can do about it. I was thinking: if we can remove small scratches on a car's paint, why not on a piece of lexan. Any help would be appreciated.
Blue Magic Plastic & Plexiglass Cleaner and Light Scratch Remover should do the trick, it can be found at your local auto parts store. Or ask for stuff that fixes scratches the plastic on your convertible top and they'll lead you in the right direction.

judomacdaddy

03-30-2005, 08:35 AM

I want to make a ps2 stick off a h series psx pcb with a p360 and sanwa buttons, but if I make a completely custom wood case, do I need the screw sanwa buttons or will the snap-ins work?

A.C

03-30-2005, 11:09 AM

I want to make a ps2 stick off a h series psx pcb with a p360 and sanwa buttons, but if I make a completely custom wood case, do I need the screw sanwa buttons or will the snap-ins work?

screw-in buttons is your best bet. if you are using snap-in's and standard wood sizes (1/2" or 3/4") you'd most probably need to use a router to reduce the panel thickness.

SpiffyShoes

03-30-2005, 11:35 AM

Junkyard God

03-30-2005, 04:15 PM

Actually you would need to use the router if you are using screw-in buttons to reduce the wood. If you are using Snap-in you would just need to have some 1/8" plexi to mount them on, no routing needed.

thanks spiffyshoes! i was just about to ask a question concerning that, but there's a few more parts.

I've been following this forum for the last week since I'm currently in the process of planning/building my box and was referred here for ideas, help, counseling, etc.

my question:

What are the smallest/largest widths of wood that the sanwa snapbuttons, screw-ins, and Happ competition buttons can fit into?

I now know that snapbuttons can fit into something as thin as 1/8", so i'm leaning more towards Sanwa snaps now, but I originally was planning on using happ competition buttons, and may still since (i think) sanwa buttons feel a tad too mushy for my tastes from what little i've played with them, but I love their sticks.

thanks in advance for the help.

ParryPerson

03-31-2005, 12:17 PM

Do I NEED an exacto knife? Or will a plain old razor blade work.

If I got an exacto knife I guess I would need the blade that is flat on the end?

thedon777

03-31-2005, 01:16 PM

you dont need an exato knife, i used a one edged screw.

i have a question, can i put duct tape on my connections(the solder) to secure them, or will the duct tape interfere, thanks.

ParryPerson

03-31-2005, 01:24 PM

What is a one edged screw? You mean like a non philips head screw driver?

thedon777

03-31-2005, 01:36 PM

i mean one of these: http://www.cpudata.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/.pond/screwdriver.jpg.w180h253.jpg

although the one i used was much smaller, i dont think it matters what you use to scrape, just something sharp.

ParryPerson

03-31-2005, 01:51 PM

Ah, ok, thanks. Thats just a normal flathead screw driver.

Sh4DoW

03-31-2005, 11:42 PM

Alright fellas...I need some hardcore help to build a ps2 joystick....I've worked with those universal joysticks and shit...i don't know if they'd be much help....but i've disassembled my ps2 dual shock "A" pad....and i took the ribbon off and shit...i need help wiring it and shit..i have buttons and a stick already...i need to mad help...anyone please IM me at swingmanjr69 asap....i really want to learn how to make my own joystick...thanx for those who care

ParryPerson

04-01-2005, 08:54 AM

Well, we care, but you just made it really obvious you didn't take the time to look thru the thread, or search thru it! You don't have a PS2 dual shock, those have analog buttons, it's a PS1 dual shock. What ribbons are you talking about? If it's an A-Seires and it has the ribbon terminal, thats an easy no solder hack, go look down in the forum and post in the spiffyshoes solderless hack thread, and it will have all the info you need, as to what wire to buy, what wires go were and so forth.

Here is the guide.

http://home.comcast.net/~spiffyshoes/DualShockHack/

Sh4DoW

04-02-2005, 12:22 PM

I was able to hack a ps2 dualshock controller....i figured what the extra two metal pongs were in the ribbon terminal...i so happy...mwahaha :tup:

Master Chibi

04-03-2005, 09:50 AM

Stupid question, where should I get the buttons ;D?

DarkChylde

04-03-2005, 04:10 PM

http://www.himuragames.com for all you Sanwa needs.

ParryPerson

04-03-2005, 08:52 PM

I was able to hack a ps2 dualshock controller....i figured what the extra two metal pongs were in the ribbon terminal...i so happy...mwahaha :tup:

Well then please post this info here and the solderless hack thread! This is info that everyone needs to know!

2BAD4U

04-03-2005, 10:34 PM

New project:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/633543/3

Edit: oh well, actually I decided to put 6 main blue buttons and two white

Sh4DoW

04-04-2005, 10:00 PM

Alright..well i was doing good with my ps2 control hacking...but the ribbon that connects to the terminal screwed up...see for some reason the control only worked fine with the ribbon terminal plugged in....other than that...when i would take it out...it would go haywire....what should i do...the ribbon is messed up...can i still work with it....oh yah...since there were 18 little terminals....number 11 was the ground..and number 12 was like...wtf...wasn't sure but i followed it on that little thing the ribbon was connected to...it wasn't a button...but it made the control work....all the other ones i followed and found out..so if anyone wants them just IM me....or post it..and i'll respond...but other than that...what should i do without the ribbon ....i need help asap

Carefree

04-06-2005, 03:06 PM

did anyone post a picture showing details on where to solder everything on a pad? sorry but thread is a bit big to search :P if not someone mind doing so? Dunno what I'm doing and would be really helpful, where all the grounds, wires, etc go. thx again

2BAD4U

04-11-2005, 08:10 AM

What options do I have to fix a happ joystick on lexan only?

YuH8TNG

04-11-2005, 11:36 AM

i jus go the 15th anniv. Street Fighter arcade stick for $60 & i luv it n well worth the $$$$ does anybody else have em

True_Tech

04-11-2005, 06:26 PM

is there a diagram for a sony h type psx controller i tried to take some pics but they came out looking crappy

Toodles

04-11-2005, 06:28 PM

http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/images/Tutorials/Digital_H.jpg

True_Tech

04-11-2005, 06:38 PM

thanks alot i'm trying to get some practice by using this one i found around the house

True_Tech

04-11-2005, 07:26 PM

so i'm sitting here scraping off the black part off the copper of the ps1 dualshock pad and i some of the green part is coming off too will that be a problem?

ParryPerson

04-11-2005, 07:28 PM

I'm thinking that was mentioned on one site I went to, I think you have to scrape the black stuff off, then another layer, and then there should be the copper exposed. As long as you are not scraping so hard EVERYTHING is coming off the PCB.

Carefree

04-11-2005, 07:46 PM

you mind labeling? my eyes suck :/

Toodles

04-11-2005, 08:12 PM

Why the scraping? use the exposed copper test points shown in the pic.
If you do scrape, you want to get past the black stuff to the exposed metal (probably copper) underneath. The main green stuff is the board, and the lighter green stuff is the copper traces. Do whatever you want to the dark green board; it don't matter. But if you cut one of the traces (the light green parts), you're on your own.
Carefree: The 'Up', 'Down', "SW-[]" amd all that arent enough?

True_Tech

04-11-2005, 08:34 PM

i was using the h series to practice i'm using the actual dualshock to put in my stick the light green parts look ok just some of copper is showing on that part as well

DarkChylde

04-11-2005, 08:52 PM

Is there anyway you can remove the analog sticks off the PCB and retain all functionality of it?

thedon777

04-12-2005, 11:41 AM

How do I install a standard sanwa stick(JLF) and how similar is it to install compared to a happ competition?

what size do the holes need to be cut for sanwa buttons?

2BAD4U

04-12-2005, 01:03 PM

Toodles

04-12-2005, 01:44 PM

A.C

04-12-2005, 02:06 PM

...hate this so much, I don't post noone does for a week, I ask a question and there's 10 other questions that are asked so my question isn't answered...so frustrating.
Oh well, I'll ask it again, what are my options for fixing a happ joystick onto a piece of lexan only?

as far as i am concerned you options are the same with an equivalent size of wood. lexan = wood for most common applications. Carriage bolts, hex bolts, misc screws (assuming thickness is adequate), etc, etc.

Just imagine you are working with a slab of MDF. Your options are the same.

finkle

04-12-2005, 02:24 PM

How do I install a standard sanwa stick(JLF) and how similar is it to install compared to a happ competition?

what size do the holes need to be cut for sanwa buttons?

Depending on what material you are using to mount it, if it's a metal panel and you're using the JLF with its mounting place its just a matter of drilling new holes and mounting it the same way you would a happ joystick. I dont think the happ and sanwa's mounting holes line up so if you're retrofitting the sanwa in the happs old location you will have to drill new holes. If this is a wood install you will either have to top mount it by routing some material away so it sits flush or you can route a cavity from the bottom side and fit it through from underneath. it all depends on what material thickness you're dealing with, since sanwa's are designed for metal panels if you dont top or bottom route you will end up with a stubwa instead of a sanwa.

buttons lead you to a similar problem if you're dealing with wood, the whole size is 1-3/16" in imperial measurements or 30mm metric measurements.it takes some creativity to get them to work in wood. if its metal its easy as pie.

True_Tech

04-12-2005, 03:42 PM

when you daisy chain the ground do you have to bend the wire in half because when i do that it won't fit in the hole

Toodles

04-12-2005, 04:01 PM

WTF? Oh, you mean into the quick disconnects? Naw, you dont have to bend it. You can snip the wire, strip 1/4" off of both ends, put both ends into the QD, and crimp.

Jinja

04-12-2005, 05:21 PM

Does anyone know anything of what I would need to do if I wanted to build a custom arcade cabinet (no emulation) on the level of next gen consoleness(PS3, Xbox2...)?

Let's just say, for whatever reason, I needed an arcade cabinet with hardware to support a game that needs rediculous power; with that game being nothing out on the market as of yet.

I've been searching for a while, and all I find are things dealing with roms and emulation. I'm not looking to directly connect anything to a game console or have a home desktop pc sitting in it. I'm looking to build something to be placed in an actual arcade rather than in the corner of my bedroom. I know very little about building arcade cabinets so please forgive me if any of this sounds silly.

True_Tech

04-12-2005, 05:42 PM

WTF? Oh, you mean into the quick disconnects? Naw, you dont have to bend it. You can snip the wire, strip 1/4" off of both ends, put both ends into the QD, and crimp.
thanks :tup:

Shin Ace

04-13-2005, 03:34 PM

If it's bare wire that you're using, bend it like you started doing. Then, take a pair of pliers and make that bend sharper so it'll fit. That's all there is to it.

2BAD4U

04-13-2005, 07:37 PM

as far as i am concerned you options are the same with an equivalent size of wood. lexan = wood for most common applications. Carriage bolts, hex bolts, misc screws (assuming thickness is adequate), etc, etc.

Just imagine you are working with a slab of MDF. Your options are the same.

Well, I cannot use screws like I use to with wood since lexan won't hold the screws well, wouldn't it?

Uthred

04-19-2005, 09:42 PM

Hi I was just wondering what dpi are people using for their custom art work ? What gives a nice quality print out ?

gaijin

04-20-2005, 12:05 PM

Hi I was just wondering what dpi are people using for their custom art work ? What gives a nice quality print out ?

300 dpi is what I use for printing out high res pics.

TenStars

04-23-2005, 12:32 PM

hey people i was gonna start constructing a stick and was wondering would a height of 2.25 inches be too low to fit the buttons and stick in as i dont wanna have a super thick box also what could the lowest ride height a stick could potentially be? Thanks :D

Shin Ace

04-23-2005, 01:17 PM

A competition pushbutton is over 2.25 inches long. So if your total box thickness is that, you're screwed. You'll need at least 2.5 inches plus the thickness of the bottom panel(the top panel has already been considered).
BTW, buttons are not the deepest component, the stick itself is. A super needs 2.5" of usable depth(unless you use a router to recess it). So if you're front and back panels are both 3/4" stock, you'll need a box at least 4" thick.

TenStars

04-23-2005, 01:24 PM

ahhhh cool thats not so bad i was just hoping that i could have a slim box but 4 inches i can deal with that, i noticed that the sanwa buttons are a lot shorter or am i wrong, does this apply to the joystick as well?

DarkChylde

04-23-2005, 01:58 PM

Yes, Sanwa have shorter parts.

TenStars

04-23-2005, 02:03 PM

cool, well once i have the parts i'll dabble with a few deisgns n finalise my measurements as knowing a little about carpentry i've learnt if you work out measurements using all materials at hand then u cant go far wrong :D

A.C

04-23-2005, 04:18 PM

i didn't consider depth.... and i paid for it. see the pictures below. i used a comp joystick, and i need all of 4" to make it work.

http://homepage.mac.com/cramlet/.Pictures/joystick/reariso2.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/cramlet/.Pictures/joystick/clear.jpg

ParryPerson

04-23-2005, 05:58 PM

AHHH HA HA HA, Owch. Well, lesson learned I guess.

NemoKOF

04-24-2005, 06:28 PM

gaijin

04-24-2005, 06:39 PM

Hallo guys.
I'm want to buy Sanwa optical joystick to customize my Hori RAP, but I live in Europe (Poland exactly) and I don't know any shop where I can buy it. Maybe someone here knows, where to buy that kind of stuff in Europe or maybe where shipping costs are small? Can someone help me?

Have you asked himura (http://www.himuragames.com/)? He's an all around great guy, and very professional, too. I don't know if he'd ship to Europe, but it's worth a shot. ;)

DarkChylde

04-24-2005, 08:39 PM

I'm pretty sure his last stock of Flash sticks are gone, but it's worth a try as they are discontinued.

elvis_a_presley

04-25-2005, 01:51 AM

Been lurking here for a while now. These forums are a brilliant resource, and are giving me many more project ideas for the future.

I haven't really kept up with modern fighters. My mates and I used to live, eat and breathe SF2 way back when. But then school, lives and nowdays family life all gets in the way that we're old fogeys.

Anyways, my desire as a kid was always to have my own SF2 machine. So last year I knuckled down and built a MAME cab:

http://benchmark.mameworld.net/cab1/

21" screen with Sanwa balltop sticks, Cherry microswitches all round, and a working coin mech set for 20 cents (that's how much games where when I was a kid here in Australia).

It's brought me much joy over the last year, and now I can show my kids what we old fogeys used to play instead of all this new fangled 3D business. :)

On the "Design" page are CAD drawings in DXF format and PDF format for anyone who wants to take the design and modify it or build their own. Go crazy. :)

Also, here's an old "Tank" SNES joystick I modded up for USB controller use a few years back:

http://pcdb.overclockers.com.au/view.php?name=elvis_mame&page=pics

I'm pretty sure it uses a Happ Competition. It served me well back when SF2 on SNES was the closest thing I could attain to a working cabinet. Ah, the memories. Now it has just a cheapy $10 USB gamepad controller in it. I built it before the MAME cabinet for a bit of a laugh, but soon that wasn't enough and I needed the "real" thing. :)

Let me know what you guys think.

gaijin

04-25-2005, 12:21 PM

Wow! Nice job on the cab! Very clean and professional look to it, from start to finish.

I too, haven't really gotten into the latest fighting games, prefering the earlier Street Fighters and Fatal Furies and even World Heroes, I'm not too ashamed to admit! I've been meaning to build myself a MAME cab since last year with the same Sanwa ball-top sticks and Happ concave buttons, so seeing your excellent cab definitely tugs at my heart-strings. It also gives me another source on which to draw for inspiration, though, too.

Thanks for sharing the pics and information! :D

ParryPerson

04-26-2005, 01:35 PM

I just thought this might be good to post, you can buy everything you need for sticks at home depot(well, except the stick and buttons), they sell lexan/acrylic, quick disconnects, small project 2'X 4' MDF panels in 3/4 and 1/2, and they also sell the 1/8 bit for drilling the holes for happ parts.

Not new info, no, but nice to know.

gaijin

04-26-2005, 02:48 PM

Yeah, I get a most of the materials I use at "Home Dope" or "Home Dumpo" as we call it here, too. Power tools, bits and blades, MDF, paint, primer, Lexan, hole-saws (better than shitty paddle bits any day, but also roughly two and a half times as expensive per bit), and almost everything else, but not quite.

For wire/cable markers, solder, desoldering braid, flux, and the like, I hit up Radio Shack.

Gamepads I get from local trade-in shops like GameStop or EB Games.

For the uninsulated .187 female quick diusconnects, I hit up a local "mom and pop" hardware store because the ones at Dumpo are always fully insulated. I don't like those because I use 26GA wire and want to solder and crimp for increased security.

For padded Grip Liner (alternately known as shelf liner), I have to hit up a kitchen, bath, and home type of store like Linens 'N Things or Bed, Bath, and Beyond.

Just as a note to potential builders or those looking for their own tools at home. The Dope has small Ryobi brand table saws that come with a stand (assembly required) for only $99 right now. That's a hell of a fucking deal, let me tell you. It's an extremely versitile tool not only to make squared, right angle cuts, but also when used intelligently to cut acute and obtuse angles, too. If you have trouble figuring out slope and angle degrees, as I do, then this link (http://www.1728.com/distance.htm) should be of the utmost value to your custom projects when calculating a box design. Usually a table saw is the most expensive piece of mandatory equipment for custom work is the table saw (routers and mitre saws and jig saws are not necessary if you use your head and have some patience with a rotary tool -- though I agree they can make life easier by a long shot). Just a heads up! ;)

True_Tech

04-26-2005, 05:44 PM

so i'm heading to kinkos in a few whats the best option for printing out my art?

ParryPerson

04-26-2005, 09:01 PM

If I am using 3/4 MDF, if my box from top to bottom was 4'', it would fit a comp with some room to spare?

454Casull

04-26-2005, 09:15 PM

If I am using 3/4 MDF, if my box from top to bottom was 4'', it would fit a comp with some room to spare?
That leaves you with 2.5" of internal height. The bottom of the bezel to the bottom of the bottom prong is roughly 2.5". 3/4" of the body fits into the top panel, so you need about 2" internal height for 1/4" of room.

This button, right?
http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/5896xxl.htm

True_Tech

04-26-2005, 09:42 PM

question i'm about to do my pad hack and i was wondering for the buttons if i can solder on the little copper spots instead of doing the scrape and solder i'm talking about the ps1 dualshock pad btw

Toodles

04-26-2005, 10:08 PM

That's the best way of doing it.

ParryPerson

04-27-2005, 07:09 AM

That leaves you with 2.5" of internal height. The bottom of the bezel to the bottom of the bottom prong is roughly 2.5". 3/4" of the body fits into the top panel, so you need about 2" internal height for 1/4" of room.

This button, right?
http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/5896xxl.htm

Er, I ment stick, but yeah, buttons to.

That will work then I guess.

gaijin

04-27-2005, 11:58 AM

Er, I ment stick, but yeah, buttons to.

That will work then I guess.

Nah, sticks are different from buttons because they (usually) get mounted underneath the deck, whereas buttons go through. So if you bolt the Competition stick underneath, you need 2-5/16" of clearance inside betweeen the deck and the bottom of the box.

Also, Comp sticks are actually a little short when mounted under a 3/4" deck, so you may want to consider using a rotary tool (or router if you got one) to make a 1/4" deep groove for the stick to fit up into on the bottom of the deck. That way, your height is good on the knob, and that's 1/4" less room you need inside, too. So you can make your box that much shorter and more compact. Every little bit counts. Or just use 1/2" MDF for the deck.

True_Tech

04-27-2005, 10:28 PM

so i'm heading to kinkos in a few whats the best option for printing out my art?
wow thats a good question

ParryPerson.

04-28-2005, 03:08 PM

Nah, sticks are different from buttons because they (usually) get mounted underneath the deck, whereas buttons go through. So if you bolt the Competition stick underneath, you need 2-5/16" of clearance inside betweeen the deck and the bottom of the box.

Also, Comp sticks are actually a little short when mounted under a 3/4" deck, so you may want to consider using a rotary tool (or router if you got one) to make a 1/4" deep groove for the stick to fit up into on the bottom of the deck. That way, your height is good on the knob, and that's 1/4" less room you need inside, too. So you can make your box that much shorter and more compact. Every little bit counts. Or just use 1/2" MDF for the deck.

So 3/4 MDF with .093 acrylic is to thick for buttons and sticks? I need 1/2? I thought alot of people made the sticks out of 3/4. I do own a router, but no bits for it.

So I guess I need to either make a 1/4 groove into 3/4 wood around the stick, or buy another panel of 1/2 MDF for the top. Ok. I guess I need to run to homedepot, I wonder if they will take back wood, if not, good thing MDF is cheap as hell.

gaijin

04-28-2005, 03:30 PM

So 3/4 MDF with .093 acrylic is to thick for buttons and sticks? I need 1/2? I thought alot of people made the sticks out of 3/4. I do own a router, but no bits for it.

So I guess I need to either make a 1/4 groove into 3/4 wood around the stick, or buy another panel of 1/2 MDF for the top. Ok. I guess I need to run to homedepot, I wonder if they will take back wood, if not, good thing MDF is cheap as hell.

3/4" MDF is fine for buttons and sticks other than a Comp stick. Actually, it's fine for a Comp too, but the Comp knob rising out of the deck will be a tad low. I suggest you drill a hole in the 3/4" MDF and put the Comp together to see what I mean. If it doesn't bother you, then no sweat. I played on a Comp that I mounted into 3/4" MDF with 1/8" Lexan for a while and never noticed until someone mentioned it on these boards. Then I saw it right away, but it still didn't affect my game. I never really felt the difference. I also admit I was a stick noob, and that was my first custom stick.

Anyway, test it out before you drop more cash, even on some cheap MDF. I guess I should have explained this in my previous post. I apologize, and hope this clarifies the issue.

ParryPerson.

04-28-2005, 03:42 PM

Thanks man! You've been really helpful.

LTK

04-29-2005, 01:18 PM

gaijin

04-29-2005, 02:33 PM

I have a question about putting art under some plexi.

What would be the ideal paper to print on? I've heard vinyl is good, and others have said that just getting something and laminating it would be just as good. What is the easiest?

Another question is how to make the holes for the art. What is the easist method without damaging the paper?

I wasn't sure what the ideal paper type to print on would be, but recently tha-darkside stated he goes with heavyweight matte paper. I don't see how you could go wrong following his lead, seeing as how excellent his work is.

As for making the holes, I would lay the art over the deck as it should be. Then use an exacto-knife, plunge it into the area where you know a hole is, and cautiously work my way around the hole's perimeter, cutting it out as I went. That way, you can't accidentally cut out too much because you're using the hole itself as a guide. Well, as long as your holes are perfect, that is...

nasci

04-30-2005, 08:13 PM

BTW, I have better luck with Lucite over plexi. I got some high-impact lucite from my local Lowes and it doesn't crack and chip as much and drills easier for me.

Puma

05-01-2005, 08:28 PM

Hello all I am very very new at this..
I am planning to make an arcade stick from the official dreamcast controller, and i do not know where to start. i have googled so many things but i havent seemed to find anything.

Can some one please(I am begging)post where I can find a proper tutorial on how to make this arcade stick...

Thank You very very Much :pleased:

DarkChylde

05-01-2005, 09:34 PM

Check the first page of this thread and read up, mainly CD_Vision's and M3talslug's site.

True_Tech

05-01-2005, 09:42 PM

so i'm heading to kinkos in a few whats the best option for printing out my art?
what he saaaaaaaaaaid?

ParryPerson.

05-01-2005, 10:42 PM

What are you talking about True_Tech? Someone answered you and that other guys post, sorta, tha-darkside goes with heavyweight matte paper, or are you talking like DPI? 300 at the least.

Just tell anyone at Kinkos what you are trying to do and they will help. You could print it on any glossy paper and laminate it for the long run I guess.

Shin-RoTeNdO

05-02-2005, 02:46 AM

Carefree

05-02-2005, 02:57 AM

soo, I just did my first mod ever. I grabbed a fighting hori stick 2 from a friend and just used the case, got a blue s controller I had laying around from halo days, and just used that, dunno why. Anyway, I know it's dirty and messy as hell, but as long as it works, I can live with it, it's a first anyway :P

http://hosted.tribalwar.com/tekno/temp/spad.jpg
http://hosted.tribalwar.com/tekno/temp/bestwires.jpg
http://hosted.tribalwar.com/tekno/temp/1stsanwamod.jpg

dinamita

05-02-2005, 08:58 AM

Hello, i've been wanting to get a stick for the longest but i didn't really venture into doing one. What i want to do is build my own stick for DC only (cuz that's the only thing i play) and i really need some directions as to what should i get to start, like for example, i got like 2 extra DC pads, i don't know if i can use those though.

Anyone can help me?

ParryPerson.

05-02-2005, 10:39 AM

If you're considering using MDF and a comp joystick, then you may want to route out the bottom for the joystick. You stated that you don't have bits, but you can do the same thing with a chisel easy. I've done it many times and I didn't have to go out to buy bits or anything and the joystick sticks out at a natural height for the ultimate comfortability.

Ah, I was wondering if I could do that! But, thanks to Home Depot, I just took back my little 2'x4' 3/4 "handy panel" and they gave me cash back, so I went and got a 2'x4' of 1/2 MDF with 2 bucks to spare! I was almost about to chisel it though, thanks for the info, I might go that route next box, since 3/4 seems a little more stable.

LamontG

05-02-2005, 04:33 PM

Has anyone added a Dreamcast controller plug to the Anniversary Arcade stick? It really sucks how it just for PS2 and X-Box...

ParryPerson.

05-02-2005, 07:36 PM

Radio Shack is stupid.

I asked for solid core 22 gauge wire. He goes to the back and yells the price, I say, ok, and I get it. Get home and it's stranded... what an idiot.

Could I use stranded in a SpiffyShoes easy hack? Never delt with stranded before, I don't know Radio Shacks policy on returns.

gaijin

05-02-2005, 07:54 PM

Definitely take it back. I've been going to Radio Shack for years. They have no problems with most returns. In your case though, it would probably be best if it was still in the package...

I personally try to avoid the people who work in places like Home Depot, Lowe's, Radio Shack, et cetera like they have rampant, mutagenic small pox. Because whenever you ask them to point you to something, they ask what you need it for. Fucking drives me nuts. I never want their input. Ever.

Trust me, approach them for help only as a last resort. And if they should approach you when it is within your capability to find what you need, offering help, always decline with a simple, "No thanks." So much time and aggravation saved. Ugh.

ParryPerson.

05-02-2005, 08:15 PM

I agree! I only had to ask a salesman because they had it in the back, and not out in the store! At all costs I avoid any goober (thats right! GOOBER.) That works at a home improvment warehouse. I don't know why "where is this?" sounds like "Please inform me on what to do and what to buy because your vast 2 weekend knowledge on the subject should be mighty helpful" to them. I try and avoid them at all costs.

I'll return it tomorrow. Thanks.

Puma

05-03-2005, 08:06 PM

hello agian..
I have another question when daisy chaining the grounds from switch to switch if you hvae 1 ground on your pcb and u are connecting from the grounds on the switchs of the buttons do u connect/daisy chain it with the gounds of the joystick switchs or does the joystick have its own ground on the pcb

PCB being used: Dreamcst Dreampad by Madcatz

Thank You

DarkChylde

05-03-2005, 08:36 PM

You can daisy chain the stick grounds and the button grounds together.

454Casull

05-04-2005, 09:56 AM

I've never had a problem with the employees at Home Depot and the like.

Shin Ace

05-04-2005, 04:01 PM

The dreampad for DC has multiple versions. One of them has a single ground for everything, the other has one ground for the directions, and each button has it's own resistor between it and ground.

If you finish hacking the pad, and notice that you can't press any buttons if one is held down, then you need to redo the ground properly.

polarity

05-04-2005, 04:14 PM

Has anyone added a Dreamcast controller plug to the Anniversary Arcade stick? It really sucks how it just for PS2 and X-Box...

Isn't there a damn lot of space inside that thing? IT shouldn't be too hard to add one yourself, if you don't mind an extra cable.

DevilJin 01

05-08-2005, 04:15 AM

Where can I buy quick disconnects to mod like a SF AC stick?

DarkChylde

05-08-2005, 08:59 AM

You can pick em up at at local car parts shop, or an electronics shop.

ParryPerson.

05-08-2005, 11:08 AM

Or even the Home Depot.

ParryPerson.

05-09-2005, 12:18 PM

Finished what I like to call "Stick from hell", meaning, it was a complete pain in the ass to finish, my cuts where jacked, I had to buy the acrylic 2 times because of stupid mistakes, I let my girl whos supposed to be good at cabinet making glue it together, and spent a half hour cleaning up the glue that got everywhere. Still needs molding, and more paint in some areas. Even Kinkos botched the job and cut my image short, but was nice enough to leave pure white on the bottom so it was still the same length I wanted....right.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/ParryPerson/Joy1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/ParryPerson/joyfront.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/ParryPerson/joywire.jpg

Anyone have some good "bottom that I can still open to get to horrible wiring I did" ideas?

anyone have any good molding ideas other then T-Molding? Just anything that looks better then just wood.

gaijin

05-09-2005, 04:13 PM

Dude, everone's first stick is a nightmare. However, compared to most first sticks I've seen, you're nightmare stick is pretty damned slick. You still made that shit look pretty good; a whole hell of a lot better than my first two or three sticks came out, actually.

But you already painted and wired it up. Shit, man, that means it's done in my book. Routing for T-molding or doing something about the bottom means probably scratching the shit out of the box and possibly fucking up the wires unless you unhook everything and remove it first. Sorry, but I'm not sure what to suggest.

ParryPerson.

05-09-2005, 06:41 PM

Yeah. thanks man, I guess it was a good effort, I'll probably just mask off the wood and lay another coat of paint on it to make the edges look neater, no biggie.

DarkChylde

05-09-2005, 08:23 PM

I noticed that you used carriage bolts to hold down your acrylic down, I heard from somewhere on these boards that you had to hammer it down and that the base is a square. How did you do it?

ParryPerson.

05-09-2005, 08:43 PM

As far as getting it thru the acrylic? I didn't know much, so I just drilled a big enough hole so that it would barely get thru if I hammered it in, but big enough so that it wouldn't break it. Then, when they almost fit, I smacked them in. Not the best way, I'm sure. But the head of the bolt covers over the uglyness. And they aren't going anywhere, if worse comes to worse and they did just turn with the nut, I was going to use a wrench to hold the bottom of the nut and another wrench to tighten it.

Gah, sorry for the retarded answer, but I only had the bare minimum tools to complete the project.

Zandwich

05-10-2005, 09:55 AM

gaijin

05-10-2005, 10:47 AM

So, I've had this custom stick that I made at first, then it broke, so my friend fixed it. Then it broke again, so I had someone else fix it. Now that I get it back, the functionality of pressing "down" on this stick seems to be shot. I mean, it works sometimes, but getting fireball/dp/half circle motions are really iffy because sometimes down just wont register, or the d/f, d/b directions. Since this is a newly hacked PCB and was tested and everything was fine, I'm guessing it's the actually competition stick. I've been using it for ~ 10 months, is it normal for the sticks to only last that long?

edit: Maybe i just never noticed it, but is the square actuator on the bottom part of the stick supposed to swivel? Like I can turn it around (although not a lot)

Yes, the swiveling actuator is completely normal. Why not pop open the cherry switch and have a look at it? The stick itself is damned hard to break. I doubt it can be done through simple use, even if you completely beast on it regularly. However, the switches can go pretty quickly as a result of that.

Well, that would be my assumption, anyway.

Shin-RoTeNdO

05-10-2005, 11:33 AM

I noticed that you used carriage bolts to hold down your acrylic down, I heard from somewhere on these boards that you had to hammer it down and that the base is a square. How did you do it?

What I use to do is this: drill the holes the size of the carriage bolt thread on the plexi, then just like tightening the c-bolts on wood (no need to countersink or anything) I would do the same and it would just create its own square or press into the plexi (depending on what type, sometimes it would crack or sometimes nothing) That worked for me for a while, but I hated getting cracked holes around the carriage bolts and when I got a vintage SFII control panel and took it apart for cleaning noticed how it was done on it and it is as follows:
The holes on the plexi/lexan or whatever is drilled larger than the size of the bolt/screw so that the square nub under the head of the c-bolt would fit snug and lightly tight around it when you tightened it. The holes drilled through the wood underneath is of course correctly drilled (duh!) After tightening that SOB, unscrew it, remove the c-bolt and look at the hole on the plexi/lexan. You'll see that the hole will have the shape of a square (somewhat) in it. Its from the bottom of the head of the carriage bolt and that is what will keep the bolt from spinning freely around. The best part about it? No cracks!!

Zandwich

05-10-2005, 01:19 PM

Yes, the swiveling actuator is completely normal. Why not pop open the cherry switch and have a look at it? The stick itself is damned hard to break. I doubt it can be done through simple use, even if you completely beast on it regularly. However, the switches can go pretty quickly as a result of that.

Well, that would be my assumption, anyway.
What exactly would I be looking for?

gaijin

05-10-2005, 04:50 PM

What exactly would I be looking for?

You're looking for a clean, tight connection when the switch is in the closed position. Nothing warped, bent, broken, and so forth. You also want to make sure that it responds as quickly as they should with no delay. So should you press the little button, the connection immediately snaps closed. When released, it should immediately go back to the open position without interruption.

Simple and easy. They're very straightforward. ;)

Shin Ace

05-10-2005, 10:31 PM

The first thing you need to do is swap the switches for down and start, and see if that helps. If it does, replace the broken start switch with a new one.

gaijin

05-10-2005, 10:43 PM

Hahaha, oh yeah! Good point! :)

RagingKeela

05-16-2005, 09:40 AM

http://img78.echo.cx/img78/619/stickdone6kh.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

here's my shitty first attempt at making a stick! enjoy!

koopatroopa

05-16-2005, 11:03 AM

anyone has a link to info on the diff versions of a ps1 pad hack that will be compatible with magicbox?

gaijin

05-16-2005, 04:56 PM

http://img78.echo.cx/img78/619/stickdone6kh.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

here's my shitty first attempt at making a stick! enjoy!

Not too shabby for a first stick at all. :tup:

I really dig the red on black, too. With some extra sanding before you painted and, uh, a little more foresight {:confused:) put into the wiring, it would have been golden, for sure.

RagingKeela

05-17-2005, 03:54 PM

yeah, thats EXACTLY what i SHOULD have done....

oh well, experience is the best teacher! thanks for the tips!

Toggleme

05-18-2005, 11:49 PM

Im planning on a little summer project.I want to build a PS2 joystick. Just wondering what type of happs stick (if any) you would recommend. The arcades i play at are pro comps and i was planning on picking up one of those. Any ideas? i welcome your 2 cents.

O ya does anyone have schematics on a nice sized box? A dimmensions break down would be nice.

ParryPerson: i like your layout. got specs? if not can you just give me some rough dimmensions so i can get a feel for it? thanks alot.

ParryPerson.

05-19-2005, 11:27 AM

ParryPerson: i like your layout. got specs? if not can you just give me some rough dimmensions so i can get a feel for it? thanks alot.

I can give you all the measurements, I don't have a fancy PS layout or anything.

It's based on Spiffys design, but I freehanded it so it felt right to me, it's only a few inches here and there that I took or added.

I used 1/2 MDF.
(all inches, Width X Tall)
Top Panel: 12 1/2 X 11
Sides: 9 1/2 X 4
Back: 12 1/2 X 4
Front: 12 1/2 X 3 1/2.

The stick is 2 1/2 inches from the side of the top panel, and 4 inches from the top. From center of joystick hole to center of first buttons is 4 inches.

Thats only what I used, just do what feels right, some people like the buttons further away, some like them closer.

Toggleme

05-19-2005, 11:59 AM

From your numbers i gather it is hardly slanted. Does anyone have a good angle to put it at? i know at my arcade every cabinet is slanted. Thanks.

ParryPerson.

05-19-2005, 12:08 PM

Right, no slant, I like my sticks better that way. You'd probably want to go 5 inches on back, 4 on front. Draw your line and cut.

gaijin

05-19-2005, 12:15 PM

I've found that I don't like a slant greater than about 5.7° for my own deck. That comes out to roughly a 1" height difference over a 10" span. Someone said that a slant of more than 10° causes wrist pain, too... I think. Don't quote me on that!

Anyway, here's a great link for figuring out the angles for your cuts to obtain the slope you desire: Slope and Distance Calculator (http://www.1728.com/distance.htm). Good luck with the project!

2BAD4U

05-21-2005, 11:18 PM

carriage bolts

Where can I find those? I went to Home Depot and all I found were big carriage bolts like with a 3/4" head....is that it? They were really huge for a joystick. I remember seeing pics with bolts a lot smaller....where can I find them?

God of Death

05-22-2005, 09:56 PM

Hey I want an arcade stick and I'm not skilled enough to build my own. So what is the best one to buy? Holla!!!

Official Member of Team Death
You go against us and you DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!.........Simple as that

ParryPerson.

05-23-2005, 06:39 AM

Well, this thread is the "CUSTOM arcade stick thread", for info on those making their own sticks.

There have been MANY threads asking your same question, just a simple look/search around the hardware forum will give you your answer, if not, then simply make a new thread.

vf10a

05-23-2005, 09:47 AM

Hi all. Just wandering whether anybody knows a good source of arcade parts in the UK. I am loooking for a happ competition joystick and pushbuttons but Suzo UK have imposed a minimum £100 order limit.

koopatroopa

05-23-2005, 08:51 PM

aight guys i am starting on my first fully custom stick tomorrow
i have researched this for countless hours but still have a few questions

1)what ways are recommended to mount the pcb?

2)will a binding post?(strip of like 16 screw things for wires from pcb to stick and buttons) have any affect on input lag or a possible short?

3)what size lexan is preffered, what is the general price to expect, does it come tinted and if not can it be tinted?

thats all for know
any possible suggestions would be appreciated for these are pretty specific questions

thanks
joseph

454Casull

05-23-2005, 09:04 PM

1) Mount it any way you want, as long as it can handle some physical trauma (i.e. dropping the stick on the floor) without damage (solder joints breaking off and stuff).

2) No. Perhaps there is, but the delay will be lower than 10^-5 seconds for sure.

3) Entirely your choice. I got some Lucite (high-impact acrylic, I think - a 24"x48"x0.08" panel) for about $17 CDN. Lexan may or may not be more expensive. By the way, Lucite is hard to work with. :( I think Lexan comes in different colors, including clear.

koopatroopa

05-24-2005, 05:30 AM

thanks man
that answered that except when mounting the pcb can i put a screw through it or glue on the backside?

DarkChylde

05-24-2005, 08:44 PM

Yeah, you can put a screw in an existing hole, or hot glue it to the box.

2BAD4U

05-24-2005, 08:59 PM

I always use nails, simple and secure

Anyone can tell me where to find carriage bolts small enough to mount a joystick? I went to Home Depot, Canadian Tire, Wal-Mart and all they have are big ass bolts or little phillip bolts....Need help, I'm almost done with my joystick, but still looking for a way to mount the joystick on lexan only!

nasci

05-24-2005, 09:29 PM

I found them at LOWES myself.

2BAD4U

05-25-2005, 05:45 PM

I found them at LOWES myself.

Well, there are no Lowes here in Canada....

gaijin

05-26-2005, 02:57 PM

Lowe's, Home Depot, and indeed, even small hardware store franchises such as Ace and True Value do not necessarily stock the same items from one store to the next. Even though the name of the store is the same. Get used to searching all around for whatever it is that you seek.

For instance, for me to find the exact FQDs that I prefer to use, I can only find them at one particular True Value, out of over ten other hardware and automotive retail suppliers in my area, and I pay $1.99 plus tax for only ten of them. The only reason I don't buy them online is because it would be even more expensive after shipping if I ordered from Jameco or Parts Express or wherever else.

But that isn't to say you should not search the web, too. You absolutely should.

Whatever you do, don't ask here where you can find parts because there is no universal answer.

Toggleme

05-27-2005, 05:31 PM

What are the sizes for the quick disconnects of Happs comp. buttons and stick? Im getting all the wiring ready before hand so i can just stick it on when its time. Thanks

ParryPerson.

05-30-2005, 11:52 AM

I'm pretty sure they are .187, female, but you can go a little either way.

2BAD4U

06-02-2005, 07:44 PM

This is my second joystick I made for my friend. I worked so hard on it that I didn't want to give it to him. Decided not to paint it black as on the scheme but I kinda regret it, would've look good I think, oh well it's too late, so check it out and tell me what yall think
MastaPiece 2 (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/633543/3) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/633543/3

Toggleme

06-03-2005, 11:29 AM

thats hot.... i like it.

ParryPerson.

06-03-2005, 05:42 PM

I've been throwing the idea of making a stick that would just mount to clear lexan as well, cool stick.

Toggleme

06-04-2005, 11:03 AM

2bad4u: what kind of PCB are you using?

2BAD4U

06-04-2005, 04:15 PM

Well, I first used two cheap madcatz PCBs, those that doesn't even have joysticks on them that I bought 5$ each, this is for my 2-player stick. And for the 1-player stick, I used a serie A Sony controller, the one without soldering needed, works like wonders!

ShinHed

06-04-2005, 09:49 PM

2BAD4U

06-05-2005, 07:13 AM

Poor Nissan :sad:

what do you mean?

Shin-RoTeNdO

06-08-2005, 12:19 AM

Any new sticks being made?

gaijin

06-08-2005, 04:47 AM

ParryPerson.

06-08-2005, 05:13 AM

I've got three I'm currently in the process of making. They're built, but need to be painted. Which is something I despise because I'm so completely awful at spray-painting. But I plan on posting pics of at least one of them in the next few days, when I finally finish painting the damned thing. :(

I used to paint cars for a living, and just remember,

Nice, even strokes, keep your hand level with the wood/whatever in one stroke, if you just swing your hand, you get more in the middle. Just move your arm from the elbow.

Spray only when you are making contact, and when you get to the end of a swing, stop spraying, if you just keep spraying, the end of your arm sweeps (on the wood) will have more then the rest.

Apply in 3 coats, one light(let it dry), one covered(let it dry a little longer), and lay it on last(let it dry longest), not enough to run it, but enough.

This is only what worked well for me.

You COULD prime the MDF, but thats almost a waste of time.

gaijin

06-08-2005, 06:50 AM

Ah, yeah that helps quite a bit. Thanks!

I was previously just swinging my arm back and forth and never letting off of the spray nozzle. So yeah, as you stated, it comes out uneven. And then I'd just go over top of it again (and again) trying to get it right. But then it gets too thick and it starts to get those little pin-prick dots. I'm pretty good at avoiding runs though.

Another thing that kills me is all the dust. I paint one side, and in the process, all adjacent sides get covered in fucking spray-paint dust. Then because I don't want it to dry like that, I end up hitting those sides again really quick in a vain effort to balance things out. Leading to more pin-prick dots. Really frustrating.

I've been wet-sanding everything down in-between coats, and that helps, but fuck, does it ever take forever and a day.

Heh, yeah, I already primed it though. Why do you say that priming MDF is pointless? Or do you mean after sanding? I sanded everything down with 400 grit (after going through 60, 100, 150, 220, and 320 first), and I admit it was pretty smooth. But if I had not sanded all the edges with fine grit, it would have absorbed a shit-mother-load of paint, making primer a necessity...

Anyway, any other tips would be great. Again thanks.

LTK

06-08-2005, 10:26 PM

What's the best way of cutting plexi to make it the right size? I originally cut it with a router, but afterwards the area cut was all white (scratch marks). Is there a better way? Or should I be doing something afterwards?

nasci

06-08-2005, 10:38 PM

Get a fine toothed saw blade, and you actually put the blade on backwards, and then you make your cuts. That way no chips at all. It still cuts it, but nothing digs into the plexi.

ShinHed

06-09-2005, 10:51 PM

Someone Sanwa this...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=21188&item=8198025014&rd=1

gaijin

06-10-2005, 05:01 AM

Wow! Hahahaha! That fool actually writes, "GREETINGS FROM GALACTIMUSPRIME!" Hah, what a fage.

But yeah, that looks like a sweet mod waiting to happen. I've only seen the smaller Blaze CPs, and they looked cheaply made and cramped. This one looks like it's much more rugged and seems to have much more elbow room, too.

Phix

06-10-2005, 10:51 AM

Hi wasnt really sure where to post this so here goes ,
1: im ordering sanwa buttons and wondered wich ones im better off with snap ins ( more colours ) or screw ins ( tighter fit ? )
2: what thickness/type of wwod do you use for the top of the stick
Cheers :tup:

nasci

06-10-2005, 12:07 PM

Phix, in general screw-ins are a little more forgiving for the thickness of the wood than snap-ins are. Snap ins are generally used in thinner plastic molded cases or metal tops. I think the thickest you can really go with a screw-in is about 1/4" before it doesn't screw in too well. Some people take 3/4" thick material and thin it down where the buttens are... others use 1/4" wood on the top and brace it well.

gaijin

06-10-2005, 01:26 PM

Mother fucker! I am so disgusted with myself right now that I am tempted to just throw my latest box away and start over from fucking scratch.

I was laying on the third and final coat of paint (planned to do 2 primer, 3 paint, 1 clear-coat), and I'm halfway done when everything goes to shit on me. Fucking spiderwebbing cracks everywhere. Everywhere! Jesus Christ, I'm going to have to sand this fucking thing for an entire day tomorrow just to get back to the primer. Ugh. I may as well sand all the way down to bare MDF with course, and save myself long agonizing hours dry sanding with 220 in a vain attempt to salvage some of the work I put in on it this entire last week.

The only thing I can think of that could have caused this is that I didn't wait long enough to paint after I wet-sanded. I only waited a couple hours, and it looked and felt completely dry. I've been doing the same thing for days. Wet-sand, wait a few, next coat, give it 24 hours, wet-sand, wait a few, next coat, give it 24... You get the idea.

Jesus, I feel like someone drove a nail through my cock. It was so beautiful, too. Fucking mirror finish. I could see myself in the fucker. I need a drink.

nasci

06-10-2005, 02:10 PM

That sucks man. You using oil based or acrylic based? Just curious. I feel your pain though.

gaijin

06-10-2005, 05:07 PM

To be completely honest, I don't know. I do know that I want oil-based and not acrylic or latex though. I was using Rustolem Auto Primer (large silver can) for primer and Rustoleum Painter's-Choice red glossy enamel for the color coats.

I wish I could say for certain that I know what the problem is, too. But I'll be damned.

I don't know if I'm not waiting long enough after wet-sanding (couple hours, and let me tell you that I checked to make sure and the previous coat was dry, smooth as glass, and rock-hard)? Or maybe I just applied too many layers (was the fifth coat when this happpened)?

I don't have a clue.

aybase

06-10-2005, 07:36 PM

Alright, first post. i have acquired 8 happ buttons, and a competition joystick, and have determined my layout, searched and found hackable controllers for my project, and have my boxes plans layed out. all that's left is to get my MDF and build the stick. i have searched the forums/internet trying to find my answer but have come up with nothing. question: what thickness of MDF should i use for mounting happs, and what size/length/type of screws should be used in mounting the joystick? thanks

nasci

06-10-2005, 10:07 PM

Gaijin, this is just a guess. But when I was in art school it was pointed out to me that when making a painting it is generally not good to mix oil based paints and acrylic/latex paints. Now you can do it, but not unless you wait a real long time to make sure that the oil is dry. Basically the 2 paints dry at different speeds and if the oil base is on the bottom and is still shifting around and the acrylic or latex is on top of it and is already dry or drying.. it will crack. Even if the oil paint says that it is ok to paint on top of it after 1 hour or 2 hours... that generally means for another oil coat. Anyway, that is just about painting in general. Maybe it applies to your stick as well?

2BAD4U

06-10-2005, 10:11 PM

For the joystick, a 1/4" is perfect but 3/4" is aight for the buttons, thinner is ok too

ShinHed

06-10-2005, 10:29 PM

Gaijin, I too am in the mist of a 2-week long wet sanding paint job and I feel your pain. Next time use matching primer, paint and clear.

I now swear by Plastikote. I also toss my items in the oven to speed things along.

Good luck and lets compare when we finish.
:karate:

gaijin

06-11-2005, 05:41 AM

nasci, thanks for the tip. That could very well be the case. i don't know because I can't find anything on the paint cans that would inform me as to the contents, be they oil-based or acrylic. I assumed that using the same brand would guarantee uniformity, but I may have been mistaken...

ShinHed, I'd be glad to post up pics when I'm (finally) done. But do you mind if I ask you a couple questions? Like how long do you wait to apply the next coat after wet-sanding? And what temperature do you set the oven to for speed-drying? How long do you keep the box in the oven at that temperature?

I have never seen the Plasticote brand in local stores around here... I was thinking of switching to Krylon though, since it seems popular. But I personally don't like Krylon as much because -- and I am sure that I'm completely bat-shit insane here -- I don't liike the smell. Krylon doesn't smell like a high-quality paint to me. Hahaha, Rustoleum, on the other hand, I could inhale all day without even getting a headache or light-headed. Heh, not that I do, of course. Anyway, I still have a few cans of Rustoleum Painter's Choice left. And it really is high-quality paint with a beautiful finish. I'm going to give it another go, I think, and hope for the best.

ShinHed

06-11-2005, 08:30 AM

I get my Plastikote from my local Pep Boys and it takes me 15 minutes between color coats, including when I put my items in the oven on warm and then I wet-sand.

I'm also using the clear-coat recommended on the back of the colored paint. I also apply heavy wet coats of clear in 30 minute increments and wet-sand an hour later.

Can you find the Painter's Choice primer and clear?

gaijin

06-11-2005, 01:08 PM

No, actually I haven't seen Rustoleum Painter's Choice brand primer and clear coats. For those, I have Rustoleum Stops Rust brand. Perhaps this is my problem. Like nasci mentioned, perhaps they aren't mixing like they should?

I spent this morning removing the last five coats and taking my box back down to bare MDF. I found that sanding, even with 60 grit was pretty worhtless. It seems that the primer never cured properly. I ended up using a fillet knife to skin and scrape most of it, and then hitting it with rough-grit afterwards tio finish it off. I don't know why or how the two base coats got to be so gummy. They were each given 24 hours to dry before wet-sanding. I can only assume that I didn't give enough time after wet-sanding for the primer to set back up? The Stops Rust brand is supposed to resist moisture, but perhaps wet-sanding and painting so soon after seals moisture in so that it screws shit up anyway?

I didn't think that paint was permeable either. Am I wrong? Could the constant wet-sanding perhaps have caused the underlying layers to absorb moisture? I assume that if so, then heating the box in the oven must help. Hopefully I won't have this issue again.

Thanks for the suggestions regarding the oven heating, too. It's definitely worth my while to search for matching primer/paint/clear coats, too. Anything to avoid this nightmare again. What a waste of time and materials. :(

ShinHed

06-11-2005, 02:05 PM

Shit!

I'm just realizing. You never, ever wetsand mdf. Ever left mdf in the rain before? MDF and water = :tdown:

I've primed and sanded mdf with a sander using 80, 220 and last 400 grit paper. After you've finished the 220 decide if you need another coat of primer. If you still see any MDF then you need another coat.

Research high-build primer for your application.

gaijin

06-11-2005, 02:16 PM

Well, yeah, but I thought that by being extra careful I could minimize the damages to the point that wet MDF never became an issue. I taped everything off with fresh tape before painting and wet-sanding, and like I said, everything seemed completely dry.

Maybe if I coat both inside and out completely with sealing primer? I guess anything is worth a shot.

Really, you should have seen the shine I got on that fourth coat. If I had known everything would turn to shit on me, I would have stopped there and been very happy with the finish. There is no way that I'm going to settle for anything less after seeing that. :(

edit: By the way, I had wet-sanded this box four times before I had any problems with applying paint. I had used 600, 800, 1000, and 1500. I was going to use 2000 after the final coat had it not gone to hell on me. Then it was going to be clear coat and wax for the perfect mirror finish. I was so damned close. Fuck. Now I'm back at square one sanding the bare MDF through the grits to 400 again. God damn it all.

ShinHed

06-11-2005, 02:48 PM

Perfection is an addiction.
I was up until 3am wetsanding with 2000 grit:confused:

Check this thread for pics of a guy doing simular as you.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,37311.0.html

aybase

06-11-2005, 05:13 PM

Okay, i bought some 3/4 inch thick MDF, now, quick question, i know how to mount the buttons, but whats the best way to mount the competition stick? will routing be required? >_>

Shin-RoTeNdO

06-11-2005, 10:35 PM

No, routing will not be required, but if you want you joystick to stick out more you're going to have to. You can use a router or chisel. Actually, this was explained XX pages back, lol.

ShinHed

06-12-2005, 11:04 AM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/JewGal/DSC00361.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/JewGal/DSC00367.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/JewGal/DSC00359.jpg

Fruits of my wetsanding labor.
(too freshly painted to be polished and waxed)
:karate:

gaijin

06-12-2005, 11:40 AM

Very nice! I'm impressed by how good the mirror finish looks without a very bright light source, too.

judomacdaddy

06-13-2005, 10:27 PM

Since you guys are on the topic of painting and I am in that process rightnow too, what would be the proper way to paint a stick made out of red oak?, as I just finished my case.

gaijin

06-14-2005, 07:41 AM

I'd say that unless it was ugly, knotted wood, you should stain it, not paint it. ;)

If you're dead set on a particular color though, I'd sand it down going through the grits until you hit fine or extra fine. Basically after sanding with 220 or higher, it's stainable/paintable.

I don't recommend dry sanding painted surfaces, unless you want to go through a whole lot of time and sandpaper. Not only that, but even dry paint will gunk up and smear and get ruined because of the friction and heat caused by friction, and you will seriously screw up an otherwise fine paint job. If you must sand after priming or painting, wet sand, but do it very carefully, so as not to get the wood wet at all. Which means holding it while you sand instead of setting it down on a surface where the drippings will accumulate and puddle and soak into the wood. And taping off any bare wood areas that shouldn't get wet as best as you can.

However, you get a damned nice paint-job without any wet sanding if you know what you're doing, and can apply the paint evenly.

gaijin

06-14-2005, 04:10 PM

Bah. Fuck it. I am finally willing to concede that wet-sanding painted MDF is a fucking stupid idea. Man, am I ever disappointed about it though. I'll just have to live with the fact I will never be able to wet-sand this box without fucking everything up at some point.

Ugh, now I get to scrape another couple coats off and sand it down and start all over again for the third and final fucking time. I don't care how it comes out anymore. I just want to finish the God damned thing already. Bloody Hell. :(

Acheron

06-15-2005, 04:07 PM

I’m planning on making my first six-button stick soon, but since I haven't really played a 2D fighter with one in a while, I was wondering what the default button layout is in regards to the PlayStation. Most of the joysticks I’ve seen (that have them labeled) have Fierce and Roundhouse as R1 and R2, but then looking at the Capcom SF pads, they have L1 and R1 instead.

Which one is the setup most games default to?

Supergun
1 Common (GND)
2 NC
3 Coin
4 D Button
5 B Button
6 Right
7 Down
8 +5v
9 Second D Button
10 Second C Button
11 Start
12 C Button
13 A Button
14 Left
15 Up

And just to be sure, taking the above pinout guide from the “Deciding on a SRK standard for DB15 (http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2416652&postcount=29) thread would result in the following, correct?

13=X
5=Square
12=Triangle
4=R1 or L1
10=Circle
9=R2 or R1

canoshiz

06-15-2005, 05:19 PM

Yay, first post at shoryuken. I'm about to build my first stick (2P), and I have the following parts from HAPP:

COMPETITION J/S 8 WAY MS BLACK x2
COMPETITION PB RED LONG BEZ CONVEX W/.187 SILVER MS & NUT x4
COMPETITION PB BLUE LONG BEZ CONVEX W/.187 SILVER MS & NUT x4
COMPETITION PB GREEN LONG BEZ CONVEX W/.187 SILVER MS & NUT x4
HORZ PB WT WITH MS & NUT 1 PLAYER W/LONG WHITE BEZEL x1
HORZ PB WT W/MS & NUT 2 PLYR x1

Is that all I need, aside from tools, wood, etc?

EDIT: Oh, and this is for a PC (MAME), should I just get 2 PSX pads and build according to CD_Vision's tutorial and get a multitap adapter, or should I just build it from PC pad parts?

DarkChylde

06-15-2005, 09:35 PM

As far as arcade parts, yes that's all you need for a functional arcade stick.

2BAD4U

06-15-2005, 09:56 PM

quick disconnects and barrier stripes will be great also

Shin-RoTeNdO

06-15-2005, 10:14 PM

Best to use PC pad, thus avoiding the use of a converter that may or may not work depending on software and etc...

Tritone

06-16-2005, 09:53 PM

Does anyone have a template for the SF:AE stick? I'm trying to do the ArcadeStickMonk mod, and put in some really sexy artwork, but I feel like I'm flying blind without a template :xeye:

Thanks :)

Tritone

06-17-2005, 01:14 AM

Hey everybody.

Nevermind on that request for a SFAE template.

I measured it out myself and put in as close as I could get it into the GIMP. I also had to go to happcontrols.com to get the diameter of their joystick cover plate and buttons. I used my template to make this:

http://s91116975.onlinehome.us/happart.jpg which is going on as soon as I can afford to buy the replacement Happ parts! Hooray!

Shin-RoTeNdO

06-17-2005, 06:27 PM

Wow, nice artwork!!

JCBass

06-18-2005, 01:38 PM

can someone tell me where i can buy sanwa sticks and buttons i cant seem to find a site. thnx

gaijin

06-18-2005, 03:48 PM

Himura Games (http://himuragames.com/)

Rod is the man! ;)

El Maniatico

06-23-2005, 09:58 AM

Whats a good price for a custom sanwa?

DarkChylde

06-23-2005, 02:18 PM

~$130-150.

lung

06-24-2005, 03:07 PM

Where do you guys go to find your plexi or lexan for your arcade sticks? I searched the thread and found that this appears to be the best choice in "laminating" a graphic on a stick. Thanks.

454Casull

06-24-2005, 03:13 PM

Where do you guys go to find your plexi or lexan for your arcade sticks? I searched the thread and found that this appears to be the best choice in "laminating" a graphic on a stick. Thanks.
Try your local Lowe's or Home Depot.

HervE

06-26-2005, 12:17 PM

I got a unique project in mind and I'd like you to not laugh in my face about this. I really like the d-pad from the Street Fighter: Anniversary pad for the PS2. Now I want to some how case it with regular Hori buttons. Right now I'm thinking making an exact duplicate wooden case of the SF:AC pad's left half. More importantly the isides and having the right dimensions. So the best I could do with paint is this...

http://img151.echo.cx/img151/4562/dpad2vn.jpg

If any of you have any ideas on how I can make this happen please share.

nasci

06-26-2005, 12:53 PM

ok so basically a custom stick with Japanese buttons but instead of a stick, put in a d-pad? how small would you want the thing to be? Like still something you can hold in your hands?

GyBaNO

06-26-2005, 12:57 PM

........................

Absurd.....

HervE

06-26-2005, 01:11 PM

Left side held in my hand. Right side on my right leg.

SoulCaliFreak

06-26-2005, 01:59 PM

Good luck HervE, there's some good builders here like I told you. You never know, someone might just be able to do it.

BahamaBoom

06-26-2005, 02:16 PM

I've got some question that relate to the woodwork of a stick I plan to make this summer. I'm trying to get my boxtop like that Geif (http://www.byrdo.org/images/Arcade%20Stiks/Zangief%201.jpg) stick byrdo designed Picture Of Stick (http://www.byrdo.org/images/Arcade%20Stiks/Zangief%201.jpg). I took a really expensive piss the other day (city fine expensive) so I'm really trying to keep my costs down by buying as few tools as possible (increased difficulty and all).
What I want to know is this:
1) Can the dremel be used as a jigsaw or table-saw substitute with the right bit?

2) Can the dremel be used to bore button & stick holes.

Thanks in advance for any help I can get.

gaijin

06-26-2005, 03:45 PM