The Official Custom Arcade Sticks Thread

[silent shade]

i wanna buy some custom sticks cause im to lazy to build one lolz anyone sellin?

[ParryPerson.]

Maybe if you took the time to look around the forum, you would see several people selling sticks.

The best known are DarkSide and Dreaded Fist.

[ChainZ]

Wow can anyone just be nice enough to help people....i don't understand y people have to be such smartasses. They can't just say....hey heres a link to a certain stick maker...pm or e-mail him...no...ppl gotta be real rude..i don't understand that...

[Tritone]

Nasci
ChainZ
Dreaded Fist
Probably more :)

[GunflameBuri]

Wow can anyone just be nice enough to help people....i don't understand y people have to be such smartasses. They can't just say....hey heres a link to a certain stick maker...pm or e-mail him...no...ppl gotta be real rude..i don't understand that...
Well, when people are blind as fuck, you have to be rude.

[ChainZ]

not really but ok bro.

[UltraDavid]

I'm gonna redo my MAS stick with Happ competition buttons and a competition joystick, and I have a question about it. Right now everything in there is soldered together, and I could solder it up again after changing everything out, but I want the ability to go in there and switch things around if I ever want to again. The last time I did this (with the SF:AE stick) I used those little connectors and stuck the wires into them and taped them together, which works, but every once in a while something falls out of place. I want it so that things won't fall apart in there but at the same time I could easily redo things if I ever needed/wanted to. Any suggestions? I'm considering using a hot glue gun to cement the wires into the connectors and just do it like that, which I think would be nice because nothing would fall apart and the glue isn't as permanent as soldering would be. I don't see why it wouldn't work, but does anyone have any advice about this? Would hot glue be a bad idea? If it is, I guess I'll do the tape thing again, or is there a more secure way to go about it?

[gaijin]

I don't have much faith in hot glue. It's really no better than tape.

What I like to do is buy partially insulated disconnects and remove the plastic so that they're uninsulated (because uninsulated are harder to find around here). Then I push the wire all the way through the crimpable part and solder it to the disconnect. Finally, I crimp the disconnect, and then test for movement. If there's any give at all, I desolder and do it over.

I haven't had any problems yet...

[UltraDavid]

I took your advice and soldered the wires to the disconnects and then fit the disconnects onto the button thingies, and it works pretty well. Thanks!

[nothingxs]

What size quickdisconnects do Sanwa pushbuttons take? Also, would it be insane of me to completely rewire a stick if the wiring is a f*cking mess?

Also, what's the best kind of solder I can use for sticks and where can I get it? I heard something about 90/10 being the best but I can't find anything like that anywhere.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

.187 should work if I remember correctly.
Rewiring to 'clean' up the inside has its advantages. You can also label them while you're at it when it comes to replacing quickdisconnects/microswitches and etc...

you can find various types of solder at your local RadioShack.

[gaijin]

I do not know how well that .187 female disconnects will work with Sanwa pushbuttons... While that is the correct size for the Cherry switches used in many Happ parts, .110 is the exact size for Sanwa components. Here is a link to Jameco. (http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=303247) They carry damned near everything, and they have no minimum order amount. Or didn't the last time I ordered, anyway... But that was almost a year ago, now.

As to the solder, I used to use 95/5 or something like that. Then I came across a thread in which Casuli and Shin Ace were discussing the different lead/tin ratios and what was best for electronics. I had found the 95/5 solder to be a huge pain in the ass to work with because it took so long to heat up. I'd burn the shit out of my fingers holding everything in place. And cold joints are harder to avoid as a result of having to hold steady and endure pain for longer. But if you take their advice and use something like 60/40, it will set off much faster and you will avoid both blistered fingers and cold joints.

I now use 63/37 rosin core solder which you can find at any Radio Shack. Using additional flux is a God send, as well, even though the rosin core has some already in it. The additional flux just makes things move so much faster when you want to solder a whole bunch of connections quickly.

Good luck!

[tenacioust501]

Question for all you painters out there....I'm in the arduous process of making a custom stick, and was wondering what type of primer and paint you would reccomend to make a glossy white, porcelin or plastic like appearance to a wooden case. I would really like the stick to look like it is one piece of solid material...so I know I'm going to have to use some type of wood filler on any gaps or holes. I heard something about a primer used on cars that actually foams up to fill in any imperfections...what kind of primer and white paint do you experts recommend for the smooth finish I'm looking for? Is there any way besides using a plastic case to minimize the amount of sanding?

This is my first attempt at a stick, so I greatly appreciate any info or help anyone could throw my way.
thanks

BTW: I'm using DarkSide's Ghost Stick as inspiration...his sticks are flawless... http://www.byrdo.org/images/Arcade%20Stiks/Ghost.jpg

[DarkChylde]

Just use like 2-3 coats of each primer, paint, and finish. I bought my boxes from usedelectronics who used a CNC router to make it so I didn't have any gaps or imperfections on my box.

[nothingxs]

I now use 63/37 rosin core solder which you can find at any Radio Shack. Using additional flux is a God send, as well, even though the rosin core has some already in it. The additional flux just makes things move so much faster when you want to solder a whole bunch of connections quickly.

Good luck!

I'm pretty new to all of this -- how would I go about using flux?

Also, where can I find a guide to proper soldering? Google, for the first time ever, seems to not want to give me a solid result. :(

[DarkChylde]

Just apply flux to any area you want solder to flow to. Pretty much flux is extracted from tree sap and it conducts heat and will make the solder flow to where you want it to. As for a guide, I bookmarked this awhile back and I think it's an excellent guide.

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/solder.htm

[Dragon_Light]

I'm currently in the process of designing my own stick. I was wondering how do you fasten the pcb unto the inside of the enclosure?

[Red-Impact]

I am currently builting my own arcade stick, already got the box cut in the following dimentions:

Top: 8" x 14"
Bottom: 8" x 14"
Left: 8" x 2½"
Right: 8" x 2½"
Front: 13" x 2½"
Rear: 13" x 3½"


I mostly play street fighter games (alpha 3, Marvel vs capcom, you name it) so what hoy is recommended? the ultimate, the super, or the competition? Also what is difference between a competition pushbutton and a pushbutton with horizontal microswitch? (they look the same to me, xcept for that gold rim or whatever...)

Something that also concerns me is the circuit board getting damaged, these tutorials don't mention any hosuing for the board, and with all that button mashing it could get damaged.

I will do the graphics by giving the box a base coat of black, cut out a desing, and painting it white (pimp my ride style) will this look good? or do I have to get some fancy laminated desing done at Kinko's?

Thanks for your help in the other thread by the way

:karate:

[ChainZ]

Competition is the way to go

[Zandwich]

Anyone have a link to an art template for one of those old redoctane boxes?

[Profesor]

Hi there!

Im looking for some new ac stick. At first i searching for something from HORI ,but i am from Czech Republic (europe union...you now...the best ice hockey players in world...:-) and HORI doesnt ship here(play-asia,liksang,...) So i search another and found X-Arcade,on soulcalibur.com say a lot ofnpeople that this stick is grae ,but on tekken zaibatu they say that it is garbage. But on both wesites they say me go to tech forums on shoryuken and that there is a lot of people who building custom stick wich is grat and much better thne x-arcade.

So my question is: Who can build some good stick with real arcade parts and mainly ... who can send it to EU. If there is somebody please send me private message,i want two of them...

Thanx to all! :tup:

[Zatojin]

Alright... I have a SF:AE stick and i need a new one, so i was thinking of building my own. Now, i was planning on using an old xbox controller (type S) that i tried to lcd out then never put back together for the pcb. Does anyone know:

1) if there is a key to removing the trigger plastic?

2) Where the ground is for the buttons?

3) How to remove the start and back button things that are on there?

4) Um... if it s possible at all?

Also, how should the case be modified to hold the artwork on the top? Does an indentation need to be made? if so, what tools are used in the process?

[Toggleme]

I need help! So i built a stick earlier this summer and made some jankey box for it... everything worked perfectly until i made a new box for it and moved all the hardware over. I am getting a delay in my 4 (circle) button. Any idea what the problem is? I am using a madcatz board with happs comp buttons. Is there anything short of redoing all the wiring?

On a different note, what alternative do i have instead of a single loops for the entire ground? It makes for a sloppy look.

Thanks for the help!

-GA

[gaijin]

Toggleme, I can't help you with the button lag. Unless it's the switch, it's probably the connection you soldered to the PCB. Maybe. I dunno.

Anyway, instead of daisy chaining QCDs for a ground, you could alternatively just solder a single piece of uninsulated solid core wire that extends from one switch to the next. No breaks, and it makes finding a loose ground connection easier to spot, as well. However, QCDs definitely allow for versatility, should you ever wish to swap parts, boxes, and what have you. You might also be interested in using terminal strips, but then you're needlessly complicating things by using an awful lot of wire for a simple common ground.

So yeah, there are other options. Perhaps even more than I listed. But each has its pros and cons. Daisy-chaining with QCDs may not be the prettiest or easiest to double check, but it is clean and allows for quick and painless part-swapping down the road.

[fathamburger]

I just got a pelican universal fighting stick, the one on the right here (http://www.pelicanacc.com/). Go to universal, and its the yellow stick on the far right

Main thing I want is to hook it up to my dreamcast, I have this adaptor here. http://www.lik-sang.com/info.php?category=29&products_id=718& no work. It also didnt work with a madcatz pad I had a few years ago. I'm thinking the common thread is power. Works fine for dual shock ps1 and ps2 pads I've tried.

Also tried it with PC with this one

http://www.lik-sang.com/info.php?category=29&products_id=718&

No work here either.

Can someone that actually owns this stick please reply with a confirmed adaptor model? dreamcast is most important to me for 3rd strike and CvS2, I'm not buying a console till next gen :P

[xXxDa_RaGexXx]

Is there any1 willing to get rid of an Arcade Stick with a Sanwa Flash or the Sanwa Flash by itself. Either one is fine.

[dragon20]

Ok guys i need your help, iam trying to get a couple of questions answered.

First of all i live in Melbourne Aus, so alot of parts are not easily avaliable to me.

Iam looking at two sticks

The Happ Competition Joystick (http://www.happcontrols.com/joysticks/competition_joy.htm)

Or the Sanwa JLW (http://www.sanwa-d.co.jp/p_joy-stick3.htm)

I would like to know if anyone can give me any information in regards to wiring up the Happ Competition stick to my PSX Dual shcok controller and also the Sanwa if possible

The best page i found for PSX wiring was THIS (http://wrongcrowd.com/arcade/joystickp2.shtml)

I just need to know, do i the joysticks have the same principles e.g

Connect to -5v ground? and then to each up down left right?

or is it connect to +5 volts and then to each up down left right

can any one please provide me with any information on this.

I think i will go for a Happ competition stick.

but from the picture below.
The Happ Competition Joystick (http://www.happcontrols.com/joysticks/competition_joy.htm)

Can i mount this on top ? or do i have to mount it underneath, the wood.

This is my biggest concern, if any one has a tutoral on how to how to do this please post up.

Thanks guys

[454Casull]

If you aren't using an optical joystick, you don't need to use anything but signals and ground(s).

[dragon20]

Sweet one question answered, so all i need to do is hook up the competition pro to -5v and the up down left right signla wires and iam on my way :D

any one have any information on mounting these sticks? thanks for all the helpd :D

[Hadouken]

I wanna buy a stick, a good heavy one, can someone help me. Who's selling, has to be compatible with dreamcast.

[454Casull]

Sweet one question answered, so all i need to do is hook up the competition pro to -5v and the up down left right signla wires and iam on my way :D

any one have any information on mounting these sticks? thanks for all the helpd :D
You don't use -5V. You only use signal and ground.

Each button and direction requires a signal wire, and you need at least one ground, depending on how many grounds the controller uses. If you're lucky, you'll only need to solder to one ground and then you can daisy-chain that one ground to every microswitch. The Happ Competition joystick will have 4 microswitches. Each one requires a signal wire and ground. Each button has 1 microswitch, requiring one signal wire and one ground.

Hadouken - ChainZ, finkle, Darkside, and Dreaded Fist, off the top of my head.

[Anime12478]

Are there any resources online about how to make Arcade sticks from XBOXs? I would buy one, but I want to take advantage of the dual joysticks so I can play Robotron 2084 in its purest form.

[SpikeZ]

I went to evo and was having trouble with the sticks they had there. but one guy let me borrow his and it was perfect (for me) it wasn't that stiff and it wasn't a 360, i think it was an 8-way but felt like there was more clicks than 8. Could it be a 12way?

Also i have a SF:AE stick and i was wondering if i could switch out the parts without soldering and if i do switch out the parts would it cause my stick to not function right?

thx in advance

[junker]

i haven't opened up an ae stick yet, but by the looks of it i'm sure you can just swap parts out easily, and maybe without soldering if you twist and tape. swapping out parts for this stick should be very easy, but just search a bit.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

All the answers you see lie in this thread... search is the word. As far as the SF:AE stick, yes. Those parts are changeable. You can change out the buttons and joystick if that is what you mean by switching out parts. You can keep the factory microswitches on if you want and involves no soldering, rewiring, etc. Now unless you are switching out the joystick for a p360, then you'll have to do a little work for the power and that is about it.

[Baltimore Chun]

I have put a P360 in a Street Fighter Anniversary Stick, and the stick works fine with Capcom Games but not with anything else!! What’s that about?

It works fine with Dreamcast converter (CVS2) thats all i tested it on.

I have used it with a modded xbox,
Emu's don't work
Capcom games do work (cvs2, CFJ, sfAE, 3S)with the Xbox
Any other games does not, Max impact, KOF etc.

I have also tesed it with the PS2, GGX does not work Charter keeps jumping. During game play with CVS2 it works fine but not in the menus.

[hanz0]

i read more that 150 pages or so and this was very helpfull and all :tup:

by the way can someone hook me up with some a 6 button layout for use with happ comeptition stick and comptetition buttons.

another question, how do i mounth the stick underneath so that the big bolts are not on top?

and is 1.13 inches the correct size for the hole for the stick and buttons?

PS: How far AWAY should the buttons be?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

You should use a 1 1/8 spade drill bit for the holes (joystick and buttons)
Distance of the buttons IMO solely rely on the individuals preference. For me, I place my hands and draw a circle on the board to see where I would like my buttons (not too far, not too close, and comfortable enough if someone else wanted to play on it too)
For the bolts, use carriage bolts, countersunk into the board. That way you can add some plexi if you want to include some artwork or do something else. I suggest reading through more, these questions are basic and have been asked.

Someone/Anyone: Remind me to include a "Frequently Asked Questions" so I can edit it onto my first few post, thanks. If anyone feels like doing it for me, go right ahead and send it to me via PM and I'll copy/paste and edit and will give you the credit.


Edit: For those who are somewhat new to this thread, please rate it. Don't be a hater and give it 1's like a few ass' did in the past, thanks :tup:

[binderetics]

hello i have a perfect 360 joystick but lately when i try to go right it wont work for a while, then it will work for a little bit but freeze again. how should i go about fixing this? thanks in advance for any help u can give.

[UltraDavid]

I modded my AE stick with Happ competition parts (following the tutorial put up here some time ago), and it works great. The only thing I'd like to change is that I'd like the actual stick to be a little tighter. Right now it's a little looser than I'm used to. How can I do that? Or is there even a way?

[ChainZ]

You can put a heavy spring.

[UltraDavid]

Is that something extra/new I have to buy? Or can I just fiddle around with or add something to the current spring to make it harder?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Yes. You have to buy a heavy spring from happs to replace the standard spring that originally comes with your joystick (any)

If you want to save money, and believe you me this HAS been brought up countless times on this thread, about altering your current spring so that it may feel tighter, ie. stretching the spring some to add more tension, but its temporary. Personally, I'd go ahead and purchase myself a heavy spring and install in.

Warning: It will be tight and your forearm may not be use to it, but you'll just have to break it in and get use it.

[mthegreatone]

hi guys, i'm very much "wet behind the ears" about this custom arcade stick stuff. it's extremely hard for me to find the time to read 203 pages worth of stuff regarding this so i was wondering if an experienced stick-builder here can make a checklist of the things that need to be bought to create an arcade stick (particularly for xbox). i know for sure that wood is needed for obvious reasons, but what exactly are the parts required to make a stick? i've already looked through a few of the sites on the first page and there's just too much to soak in at one time.

thanx in advance

[454Casull]

The controller
Wire
Solder
Soldering iron
Screws
Glue
Buttons
Joystick
Clamps
Sandpaper
Primer
Paintbrushes
Paint thinner
Paint

I'm probably forgetting something.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

-tools
-happ parts
-pcb from a controller
-wire
-quick disconnects (optional)
-solder/soldering iron or gun
-mdf or particle board
-carriage bolts/nuts

these are pretty much the basics, however you SHOULD REALLY, REALLY READ THROUGH THIS THREAD. All your answers are within, but I'm being nice right now.

[-KDX-]

I think I'll be making the shagstick 3.0 this fall...

shit's gonna be sick...if any of you saw my blue/plexi stick @evo, you'll know that it can only get better...

-KDX-

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

all plexi with blue stick/buttons? That was yours?

[Puma]

Hello all,

I have a couple of questions...What is the best way to mount the pcb in the box so it will prevent it from moving around...
Glue?
Screws?

also

Is there anything cheaper than plexiglass which has the same look?

Thank you :pleased:

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Read
through
the
thread
please

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Puma
I think "my" method is good and it looks good also:
http://arkadesticks.com/gaarafini2.jpg

My friend Landel also use this:
http://www.frozen-studios.com/joystick/13.jpg


Otherwise just screw it in place.

[Vanessie]

Im not a big tech person when it comes to these things, I just specialize in making custom graphics lol

yeah I just played on a Tekken 5 stick and was shocked at how sensitive it was, my low foward super was instant. Im going to try to give japanese styles controls a shot but I dont know where to start.

whats best stick option to get that tekken stick feel without getting the tekken graphics on it? also is there a japanese stick out there that is heavy? I like playing on a solid surface.

right now I play on a big fat MAS with very strict down-left crouch positioning

thanks

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

TheRealNeoGeo: Beautiful work, love you design, especially inside the box. For the Gaara stick, I guess I'll start at $40 for it. Shipping will be what? US/Cali

[TheRealNeoGeo]

RoTeNdO
LOL! I got bids more then 40us$ let me tell you (a lot more).
Thanks for the kinds words anyways ^_^.

[acido]

Puma
I think "my" method is good and it looks good also:
http://arkadesticks.com/gaarafini2.jpg

My friend Landel also use this:
http://www.frozen-studios.com/joystick/13.jpg


Otherwise just screw it in place.

hey what PCB did you guys use is that a psx controller or a third party one =)

[acido]

This thread has been very informative, thank you very much.

I've built sticks before, and now I'm looking to make one with Japanese (Sanwa) parts. However it is proving quite hard to find them for sale.

I've Tried Arcade Infinity (http://www.arcade-infinity.com/), who lists a vague Item called "Add 6 Button Setup To Jamma Cabinet." & "Japanese Arcade" Buttons. Unfortunately, they haven't responded to my question e-mail asking what this "6 button setup" exactly entails (and whether or not its parts are Sanwa-made). It's quite frustrating. Has someone ordered parts from them and give me some details, or some info on their reliability?

Sanwa (http://www.sanwa-d.co.jp) themselves will not accept international orders.

Ultimarc (http://www.ultimarc.com/) Carries the Sanwa stick, but not the buttons. So they are out.


Coin Express (http://www.coinopexpress.com/) carries the parts, but they won't ship me anything other than a bulk order.

Could someone point me in the right direction or recommend a seller/course of action?

Thank you,

-splits


i dont know if this has been posted but you might want to check out http://www.excellentcom.net/parts.htm

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

RoTeNdO
LOL! I got bids more then 40us$ let me tell you (a lot more).
Thanks for the kinds words anyways ^_^.

Heh, yeah. I know it may seem like an insult in a way, but I'm cheap. I look for bargains and great deals and work hard in doing so. Anyway, I figured you'd have bids for well over $80 or even $100. Just trying to be somewhat 'modest' if you will, lol.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

acido
I always use orginal sony PSOne Pads (H-series).

splits
www.himuragames.com

RoTeNdO
I know you where ^_^.

[acido]

acido
I always use orginal sony PSOne Pads (H-series).

splits
www.himuragames.com

RoTeNdO
I know you where ^_^.

i found http://www.excellentcom.net/ to be cheaper than himura games, they sell sanwa sticks for $11.00, and sanwa buttons for only $1.1 each

[leaveal]

excellentcom seems to have a minimum order quantity, and the person who replies to emails has difficulty with her english. :(

[acido]

i just bought 1 sanwa joystick, 8 30mm and 2 24mm buttons from the site.cost me 34dollars including shipping.

[leaveal]

shipping is THAT cheap? i'm definitely buying from there now.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

acido
I buy directly from Sanwa Denshi (Tokyo, Japan) when I am buying in large quantity (LARGE).
I buy from Himuragames when I need somthing that is not worth the shipping from Japan.
Also, I have spoken to excellentcom.net and they don`t have the things I want (all buttoncolors and RG-buttons). If you want the joysticks for cheap buy from them but if you want to choose any color of buttons et.c choose himuragames.

[acido]

uh im in the philippines and himuragames prices plus shipping is killer =(, excellent.com is in hongkong their shipping and prices cant be beat cause i live so close.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

acido
That I did not know, sorry. But can you get whatever color on buttons?

[VI The Sixth]

After reading most of this thread (about up to page.. 180ish) I've only found bits and pieces of information on modding an X-Arcade. Yeah, yeah.. X-arcade sticks are a p.o.s but i don't really have the time and patience to make one out of scratch (maybe in the winter.. when I have more time.) So i'm doing the next best thing.. which is replacing my old x-arcade parts with happ competition parts.

Okay so, i'm just trying to get a feel for what parts i need and shit. Basically the joysticks and buttons so far.. Am I going to need to buy the female quick disconnects? Do I need any wiring of somesort? From my understanding, it seems that I don't need much materials to replace my stock buttons+joystick with happs.. Would you guys recommend me buying a push button wrench?

And finally..is modding the x-arcade similiar with modding the sf:ac?
http://www.arcadestickmonk.com/SFACmod.html

Thanks a lot guys!
:karate:

[shrimpnoodles]

never modded SFAC before but have modded xarcade and i'm sure it's easier than SFAC. god what a pos waste of my money. yeah it's easy as putting on a shoe. just buy the parts and open it up and replace. done. xarcade already come with quick disconnect so all you would have to do is remove the quick disconnect put it back once you ahve the happs part install. button wrench not need but will make things easier. easier for you to tighten the button. get it anyways, it's only $2. just do'nt eat fast food for a day. i'd also recommend getting hardspring (should only be <$1) because when i got my stick, it was too loose for my liking but didn't want to pay $4 for spring+shipping. better to have it and not need it then not have it when need it.

[VI The Sixth]

wow quick replies :clap:

alright sweet, sounds pretty simple.
Also, is there another name for the hardsprings? I did a search at happcontrols.com and nothing came up =/

[shrimpnoodles]

heavy springs. i'm sure this is the one but not 100% sure.

Competition Heavy Spring
95-1309-01

Standard spring is
95-1309-00

[mthegreatone]

hey guys. i just thought of a good idea for anybody who's new to the arcade-stick-building scene. this is particularly for xbox users as you'll see in just a second. as we all know, the general rule to making and arcade stick is to have the PCB for the specific console controller. xbox users will be able to save a lot of money like this. it might be possible to buy an extremely cheap arcade stick and use the PCB inside it to make your own stick. here's what i'm talking about:

http://shop3.outpost.com/product/3646595?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

the reason why i was thinking about it is because that's the stick i'm stuck using as of now, but eventually i plan on buying another one so i can open it up and check what it looks like on the inside. hopefully this would help because i'm sure first-timers such as myself are a bit antsy when it comes to building a complex piece of equipment such as an arcade stick. if anyone else is willing to check this out feel free to.

[VI The Sixth]

snip

Thanks again shrimp :tup:

[acido]

acido
I buy directly from Sanwa Denshi (Tokyo, Japan) when I am buying in large quantity (LARGE).
I buy from Himuragames when I need somthing that is not worth the shipping from Japan.
Also, I have spoken to excellentcom.net and they don`t have the things I want (all buttoncolors and RG-buttons). If you want the joysticks for cheap buy from them but if you want to choose any color of buttons et.c choose himuragames.

one question how do you understand sanwas website, cause i was lookign around but i cant understand anything, do they have an english website or something.

[mthegreatone]

...Edit: gave up and got a madcatz. was easier. works 100% now. Yay.

this'll help quite a bit...so it seems that a great controller to obtain a PCB from are madcatz controllers? i'm trying to find a used xbox controller that'll hopefully work just as well. i desperately want to make a stick, but i'm on a budget also....two things that don't mix very well lol

[VI The Sixth]

hey guys quick question, was going to buy a push button wrench but the happs pb wrench link was all messed up.

There's another pb wrench that works which is : 53-8002-00
Now the hyperlink here http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/pushbuttons.htm
says that it's for ultimates/comps and illuminated pbs but the description says it's for ultimates/illuminated and horizontals.

Anyone know if this will work for happ comp pbs?
Thanks.

[diablosrising]

I know this seems like TOO much work, but has anyone here successfully de-soldered the ic off of a sony psx digital pad? I'm just curious. Or, does anyone know where you can get that particular ic or it's pinout? thanks!



P.S. If this is already posted, don't get all antsy. 205 pages is long . . .

[VI The Sixth]

yeah, searching through this thread could be a bit.. tedious..
so when i was doing some research on sticks and what not, I found this on yahoo:

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-18815.html

srk archive, was pretty easy to find info. Just used cntrl+F to find the stuff that i was looking for.

It's 200+pages condensed down to 13 :tup:

[kprime911]

hello

I have been searching for the japanese 6 button layout template for my very first custom joystick. I searched but all the links i found to the template did not work and i found one that was similar on this site but wasnt exactly what i was looking for. I was hoping maybe somebody can post another link to the template. thanks!!

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

You can make your own template by adjusting or modifying the 'standard' button layout templates available for download. You can ask around too, like DreadedFist and others.

[Toodles]

I know this seems like TOO much work, but has anyone here successfully de-soldered the ic off of a sony psx digital pad? I'm just curious. Or, does anyone know where you can get that particular ic or it's pinout? thanks!

There are a number of different ones. The one I remember best is a surface mount chip, from some M company (Mitsubishi? Motorola probably) and I did manage to locate a pinout for that chip online. Since its a surface mount chip, I'd have to buy a surfboard to solder it to, which isn't exactly cheap. Im sure it can be done, but I haven't done it myself nor heard of someone else who has. The cost of doing it would outweigh buying a couple of digital controllers and hacking them directly.
I also have not been able to find a place to buy or sample the dedicated chips themselves.
If you wanted to build your own clean circuit, the schematic using 74HC165 logic chips, or a schematic and code using a motorola PIC are available at http://www.gamesx.com/controldata/psxcont/psxcont.htm
hey guys quick question, was going to buy a push button wrench but the happs pb wrench link was all messed up.....Anyone know if this will work for happ comp pbs?Nope, the plastic prong thingy that holds the horizontal switch in place is too large. If you want to make sure the buttons are in good and tight, what I do is:
1. Remove the plunger and spring, and set them aside.
2. Position the switch so it is 180 degres from where you want it to finally be.
3. Tighten the nut as hard as you can by hand, keeping the button body from rotating.
4. Take a pair of needle nose pliers or a leatherman, open up the pliers so they go through both of the holes the plunger's feet went through.
5. Holding the nut in place as best as you can, rotate the button housing using the pliers the last 180 degrees.

Those buttons don't budge at all.

[acido]

hello

I have been searching for the japanese 6 button layout template for my very first custom joystick. I searched but all the links i found to the template did not work and i found one that was similar on this site but wasnt exactly what i was looking for. I was hoping maybe somebody can post another link to the template. thanks!!

i have a japanese template although it's for 8 buttons but you can just delete the 2 extra buttons if you want.

[ryuken2k5]

I'm new to making Arcade stick and also new to this site . anyway i'm planning on making my own stick but i have a few questions:

1. Would a 11"x8" be too smale for a top to fit a joystick and 2 4 button rows?

2. What's the minimum height to fit everything inside the bow?

3. how can i tell where to ground on the pcb? how can i find out for diffrent board?

4. Do I have to use quick connect?? can i just hook the wire into the hole of the microswitch and then twist the wire to tighen it?

5. how thick does the top have to be? cuz i have a box that i can use but the top is really thin ?

[mp3burn]

hey has anyone ever had problems with a button not responding on their stick, I am using a ps1 analog controller and I just intalled it on my arcade stick, I had a mad catz controller in there before this one, but one day it just started to lag and not responde sometimes, so I put this new one in and it does the same thing. If u guys could give me some advice or links that will help me I would be extremely thankful.

[kprime911]

hey

i couldnt find a japanese button layout before i read acido's post but i just looked at them and i kind of just drilled the holes to look like them. i was wondering if maybe i drilled the holes too close or if they are far apart enough.

here is the link. Thanks

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v724/aznhotboi/3d4931620493.jpg

oh and also could i use a pcb from a regular ps1 non-dual shock controller? i read that you cant wire a p360 to a ps2 dual shock but could you wire a competition joystick to it? thanks again

[TheRealNeoGeo]

ryuken2k5
Hello and welcome to shoryuken forums!
First off all, please tell me what kind of stuff you are using (happ, seimitsu, sanwa et.c...)?

[SAMSON m.D]

does anyone have video tutorials on building a stick,or pictures showing step by step wolud also be great because i'm one of those people that have to see something do it :lame: , not too good with reading instructions. i was also looking to buy a stick for under 135.00 with happ buttons,and p360 for the dreamcast any info on anything would be useful thanks guys :tup: .

[Southtown'King]

sorry...but is there a thread to order a custom stick?

[Toggleme]

I'm new to making Arcade stick and also new to this site . anyway i'm planning on making my own stick but i have a few questions:

1. Would a 11"x8" be too smale for a top to fit a joystick and 2 4 button rows?

2. What's the minimum height to fit everything inside the bow?

3. how can i tell where to ground on the pcb? how can i find out for diffrent board?

4. Do I have to use quick connect?? can i just hook the wire into the hole of the microswitch and then twist the wire to tighen it?

5. how thick does the top have to be? cuz i have a box that i can use but the top is really thin ?

If your talking US style i have some experience. I built a box to fit a comp stick and 6 buttons... seems easy enough, but i wanted it freakin small... minimum material.

Here are my two cents:
1. My stick is about 12"x9" This is plenty of space going up and down for your design but across may be a different story. (8 buttons straight across takes up alot of room, btw: 6 is all you need for fighters). Think of it this way comp stick needs to be centered about 2.5" from the edge for a snug fit. then you have to give another 1.8" for the base to terminate. That is just your stick. My buttons start about 3.5" from the center of the stick and go in intervals of 1.6" center to center. So lets do the math 2.5+3.5+(4-1)1.6=10.8 inches.

Therefore 11" would be cutting it quite close. Remeber you will attach the sides of your box to the base of your top plate. If you are using say .75" MDF that is another 1.5 inches you need to add on either side. Also you need to wire stuff. My box is larger than what you mentioned and with less buttons but still a mess inside with all the wires.

So, if I were you I would either go with 6 buttons which would fit quite nicely in that box you described or build my top at least 3-4 inches bigger. Just to be safe.

2. I messed up on building my box and made it too short. I ended up grinding away some of my base so the stick could move. This is what i learned:

-comp sticks go down 53mm as shown in the schematic (http://www.happcontrols.com/joysticks/competition_joy_e.htm)

-If you box is angled then you need to consider the slope of your box. If it is steep then use some Algebra to figure out how deep your box needs to be at the point you are installing the stick. Rough numbers for a comp stick... If you mount about 2/5 of the way down from a 12" top a 3" back plate is sufficient. (assuming your top and bottom will be attached to the top and bottom of the back plate).

3. The ground is the common circuit on the PCB. Just try to find the circuit that travels to all of the buttons. Then find an open spot to attach your ground wire.

4. Dont do that... you can... but dont.. your connections will never be solid. Plus you will have a hell of a time doing that with the ground loop. Use quick discs.

5. I used .5" MDF.. no problems... I even had to grind away about .25" still not a real problem. Make sure the wood is stiff and doesnt flex easily. Or better yet go buy a sheet of mdf for like $5.00 US.
Hope that helped...(and made sense)

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

To Samsom and Southtown: Yes.

[Southtown'King]

which one?

[SAMSON m.D]

To Samsom and Southtown: Yes.

Really, i would like to see that because this whole connect this wire to this place, but make sure you get that wire from over there and connect it the neck bone is preety god damn cofusing, as you can see I need all the help I can get. Than
ks again man :tup:

[Puma]

Hello everyone...

can someone please post a link for a cb map of the SOny PSX Dual Shock Controller (Playstation 1)

thx :clap:

[aybase]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v435/sdconvoy/progress.jpg

There's my progress on my custom stick... i'm taking forever... yes, thos are concave buttons and a comp. joystick in a japanese layout. i'm really goofy like that, but it'll work for my tastes.

[ViCtiM]

Hey guys well i have looked at all 201 pages and looked at all links tutorials etc..pictures evertyhing! its excellent what you guys are doing but there is one thing i don't understand and thats "grounding" what exactly is it i read it and read but i just can't get my head around it so if someone can give me a very detailed but straight forward answer it will be greatly appreciated thank you.

[acido]

well from what i know, in order to execute a command the controller has to connect the command part to the ground when it happends it tells the computer that you pressed a buttong, so when connecting an arcade buttong you take one terminal and connect it to the active part and the other terminal to the ground so when you push the button it connects the active part to the ground,

[ViCtiM]

Thanks for your reply are there any tutorials and pictures of what a control looks like with the ground wires on it i've looked at thousands of picture but it never gets into that much detail about grounding and i heard it's a very vital part in the controller hacking procedures.

[acido]

one reason why they dont delve too deep on it is because it all depends on the pcb your going to use ,each pcb is diffrent and it's up to you to find which is which.

just look at the copper points on your PCB, the copper points that are connected to each other is most likely the ground, and the copper points that go all the way to the little black thing and arent connected to each other are the controls

[ViCtiM]

Well this is the ps1 pad i brought it's from honeywell can someone please show me the grounds and the right buttons? will be greatly appreciated:)
http://img334.imageshack.us/img334/5601/picture0252hw.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Thank you.

[acido]

i colored it in the red dots are the controls (up, down, square start etc.) and the blue dots are the ground,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v455/aeg_36/picture0252hw.jpg

[ViCtiM]

Great! thank you so much for that just want to verify a few more questions is this control hard to hack meaning the pcb layout etc..? are these what people call small Copper joints? i also read all you need is one good ground connection for it to work but some people say there can be two ground connections how do you tell theres a second one?

Thank you for your time it's greatly appreciated.

[acido]

thats easy to solder on no problem, yea you can have just one wire connected to the ground and run that wire arouns all your buttons but people use 2 wires to the ground one for the buttons and one for the joystick, cause it's ugly to have a wire running from the button to the joystick :tdown:

if you look closely at the picture you'll see that the blue dots are connected to each other via that humungouse green part, well if you take a knife and lightly scratch off the coating there youll find a big piece of copper underneath where you can just solder on no problem.

the lgiht green parts are actually copper strips with protective coating over it, if you scratch it with a knife you can solder onto it.

[ViCtiM]

Excellent...:) i looked at a few methods of how to connect one ground but how would you do two grounds i drew a quick example of how i think it's setup i only used 4 buttons/with microswitches because i didn't want to add more and i know there are connections to the joystick but i didn't want to get to detailed is this how you would go about setting up to ground wires?http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/40/sketch2uq.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[acido]

that will work, good luck on your project =). oh and you may want to dab some glue to your solder joints afterwards (use a gluegun) to prevent the wires from being accidentally pulled cause they may break in the process of making your joystick..

[ViCtiM]

Great! thankyou so much for your help you've been excellent when i get everything together ill post my stick cheers again:)

[Puma]

that will work, good luck on your project =). oh and you may want to dab some glue to your solder joints afterwards (use a gluegun) to prevent the wires from being accidentally pulled cause they may break in the process of making your joystick..

any electric glue gun will work?...cause i dont know if the hot glue will effect the connections or the pcb...will it?

[acido]

any electric glue gun will work?...cause i dont know if the hot glue will effect the connections or the pcb...will it?


yea it wont affect the connection cause it's basically non conductive, just make sure everythign works first cause i used a gluegun on my solder joints then i found out i soldered the select on the wrong copper point so it was hard to get the glue out lot of scraping with a cutter.

[Zandwich]

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hori-Arcade-Stick-Super-Nintendo-SNES-Controller-Metal_W0QQitemZ8223404335QQcategoryZ62053QQssPageN ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

on things like this is it possible to reuse the box/parts?

[bhytre]

Hey if someone could help me out for a sec i'd appreciate it.
I have this third party ps2 controller that i want to use for my arcade stick project box,each button on the pcb has 3 connections(1 is VCC).
Can i just solder to the ground and data and ignore VCC?
I'm not sure since i never tried to hack this type of controller,here's a picture.
http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/5183/im0009360lw.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

I'm back!!! Working on modding one of my SFA sticks, bought this Ultimate Fighting Stick (wireless for XB/PS2) if you have seen one of these, its by Nakiworld pearlwhite, looks really pretty, but not so sure how well it plays yet, but plan to mod it anyway. Gotta go, peace ya'll.

[Puma]

Anyone have a PCB Map for the PS1 Dual Shock H series?:karate:

[Akky]

Official Wall Papers:
IKARUGA
http://www.treasure-inc.co.jp/product/ikaruga/dl.html

PSYVARIAR2
http://www.success-corp.co.jp/software/xbox/psyvariar2/down.html

Isn't it great for a joystick top panel?

[junker]

akky!!!
thanks SOO much, been looking for psyvariar 2 wallpapers for a long time(didn't find on success' main page)!
i used some ikaruga art for my stick panel
plenty more ikaruga stuff here http://www.ikaruga.co.uk/files/misc/

[Toodles]

I'm back!!! Working on modding one of my SFA sticks, bought this Ultimate Fighting Stick (wireless for XB/PS2) if you have seen one of these, its by Nakiworld pearlwhite, looks really pretty, but not so sure how well it plays yet, but plan to mod it anyway. Gotta go, peace ya'll.
Let us know all you find out about that stick, some of us have been interested in knowing how well it works and how usable the pcb is in other projects. Measurements or pictures of the pcb would be awesome if your feeling nice.

[Akky]

akky!!!
thanks SOO much, been looking for psyvariar 2 wallpapers for a long time(didn't find on success' main page)!
Wow, that's great!:smile:

[final_cut]

I have been searching these forums, and as far as I have seen, I haven't come across a basic Tutorial for wiring a specific PCB, such as the H-series Dual shock or what have you. I see a lot of posts mentioning that you should use an H-Series because of compatability and ease of use, but can anyone point me to a tutorial or a map of what to solder and to what?

I'm just learning to solder, but I think I have the technique down, I just need a basic totorial.

I have also seen a solderless tutorial for the A-series, which I have as well, but I think there were problems mentioned about the buttons not working with that setup?

If it matters, I was looking into using a red octane case with a Happ buttons and a sanwa stick. Thanks.

[freeway4885]

I had a quick question to ask you guys. I have a DC Agetec but I want a Sanwa based stick for my Ps2. Would it make more sense to mod out the Agetec and put a Psone pcb in there or should I just start from scratch and make a new case?

[ImMrDurp]

I have a question: I'd like to build a custom stick, but need it to be compatible with both PS2 and Xbox. Is it possible to do that without having to use any converters (which often create lag), and where would I find instructions?

If not, I have no choice but to purchase either the SF:AC stick or the Ultimate Fighting Stick and swap out the parts...

[TheDumadagger]

Hey, I just recieved a mas stick from a friend with no buttons and no base but just the stick left in it and i was wondering if i have everything needed for the repair job. Im gonna get 10 happ ultimate pushbuttons to replace the buttons and I plan to do spiffyshoes solderless Dualshock A hack with some 22 gauge stranded hook up wire and some .187 quick discs. I have access to a soldering iron if needed. Is there anything else i need?

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/3528/picture0055sv.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

ImMrDurp: Yes, it is possible. That issue has been addressed in this thread. Try using the search feature and try to find it that way. You mentioned the Ultimate Fighting Stick, is that the pearl white stick that is wireless and with the 2 analog rollers on it? I have both of them and plan to do some modding when I get back to Cali which should be this weekend. I say hold on to your money and do some more research. It pays to research, read, and learn. Actually it saves you money and you don't have to pay to do the above, lol. Whatever you decide to do, let us know, and don't be timid to ask any other questions here. You may want to try to PM Armad1ll0 for some suggestions or visit his site at www.modeverything.com and email him from there too. I won't be back to the board until maybe late Friday evening, or as early as Saturday morning.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

TheDumadagger: You should be straight dawg. You do have all the tools you need right? Of course you do!

P.S. To all you new people on this thread, Please rate it!! 5*'s ^_^ Thanks

[ImMrDurp]

ImMrDurp: Yes, it is possible. That issue has been addressed in this thread. Try using the search feature and try to find it that way. You mentioned the Ultimate Fighting Stick, is that the pearl white stick that is wireless and with the 2 analog rollers on it? I have both of them and plan to do some modding when I get back to Cali which should be this weekend. I say hold on to your money and do some more research. It pays to research, read, and learn. Actually it saves you money and you don't have to pay to do the above, lol. Whatever you decide to do, let us know, and don't be timid to ask any other questions here. You may want to try to PM Armad1ll0 for some suggestions or visit his site at www.modeverything.com and email him from there too. I won't be back to the board until maybe late Friday evening, or as early as Saturday morning.
Sorry I didn't search, but I've given up on doing that in forums since for every related post a search finds, it seems to find 10,000 extraneous ones.

Anyways, that is the Universal Joystick I was talking about, though it doesn't seem to be listed on Gamestop.com anymore, and I don't know of anywhere else it was being sold.

So where could I find instructions on making a fully custom multi-console (PS2 and Xbox) arcade stick? I can build the box and know what buttons/joystick I want, but beyond that, I'm clueless.

Thanks for helping me out! :tup:

[TheDumadagger]

Me and my friend just got finished working on repairing my mas stick and it works fine and all except for a few problems. Some buttons wont register if pushed at the same time such as the start and select, square and triangle, circle and x, etc. I have a feeling that theyre registering one right after the other since if i press x+o with raven he either does the 4~3 launcher move or 3~4 cartwheel. The even weirder part is that they do register at the same time if i do like qcf+square+triangle to do hvb or qcf+circle+square for tempest. its like i need to combine these buttons with directionals to make them register at the same time yet if i push them by themselves they wont work, as i tested in mvc2 by trying to dash. I attached a few pics of the mas stick guts and the pcb used (a madcatz control pad pro). Im not very knowledgable abut electronics and this was me and my friend's first soldering job. Any tips will be greatly appreciated :tup:

Guts
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/4750/masguts6yf.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Pcb
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/9781/maspcbfront4nn.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[vaioman]

Just got done cutting the top panel for my first stick a couple days ago, the buttons were a little more spaced out than I would have liked, but it seems pretty decent so far, just doing finger placement.
http://members.cox.net/zzoll/js1.jpg
It's not wired yet because I'm trying to decide whether I really want to use a project box or not. I also need more quick disconnects. Oh, and I need side panels and a bottom cover hehe

[ToraUma]

I know most of you guys are talking about something completely different, but here is my problem:

I just got my Happ parts for my old RedOctane case. They appear to fit great, but I got a problem. The wood on the panel is about an inch thick, and it seems like it's just too deep for the Competition stick. What is the best way I can make it less deep? I've seen some pics of some happ sticks, and they seem to be pretty low also, just like mine. However, it just doesn't feel right.

My second problem is that the screw bolts aren't in the appropriate places for the stick. I don't have a drill, so would it be a wise idea to use a screwdriver to try to secure it?

Please tell me so I can get this baby running and post up some pics. =P

[ragnafrak]

Me and my friend just got finished working on repairing my mas stick and it works fine and all except for a few problems. Some buttons wont register if pushed at the same time such as the start and select, square and triangle, circle and x, etc. I have a feeling that theyre registering one right after the other since if i press x+o with raven he either does the 4~3 launcher move or 3~4 cartwheel. The even weirder part is that they do register at the same time if i do like qcf+square+triangle to do hvb or qcf+circle+square for tempest. its like i need to combine these buttons with directionals to make them register at the same time yet if i push them by themselves they wont work, as i tested in mvc2 by trying to dash. I attached a few pics of the mas stick guts and the pcb used (a madcatz control pad pro). Im not very knowledgable abut electronics and this was me and my friend's first soldering job. Any tips will be greatly appreciated :tup:

Guts
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/4750/masguts6yf.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Pcb
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/9781/maspcbfront4nn.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
damn that's a weird ass looking pcb.. did you chop off the other part that held the analog sticks?

i know some models of psx dual shock pads need those left on.. or weird shit happens

[nmbr1krush]

I know most of you guys are talking about something completely different, but here is my problem:

I just got my Happ parts for my old RedOctane case. They appear to fit great, but I got a problem. The wood on the panel is about an inch thick, and it seems like it's just too deep for the Competition stick. What is the best way I can make it less deep? I've seen some pics of some happ sticks, and they seem to be pretty low also, just like mine. However, it just doesn't feel right.

My second problem is that the screw bolts aren't in the appropriate places for the stick. I don't have a drill, so would it be a wise idea to use a screwdriver to try to secure it?

Please tell me so I can get this baby running and post up some pics. =P

What I did is bought a chisel at home depot...and just chisled out the wood. Sanded and
continued. Took about an hour. I dont like the sticks real low too. Im used to 360s now
with the longer shaft.

[Mixah]

how do you hook up an old PSX pad? the one without the little copper plates?

thanks (btw, i know which black things are grounds and which are buttons... help from there would be appriciated

[Anime12478]

Where do you guys get the casings for the arcade controls? I am looking to take an XBOX controller and turning that into an arcade stick. I can find the parts and such easy, but I need a box to hold them. I have been to the links that have been stated before, but I haven't found any on those sites yet.

[Mixah]

Where do you guys get the casings for the arcade controls? I am looking to take an XBOX controller and turning that into an arcade stick. I can find the parts and such easy, but I need a box to hold them. I have been to the links that have been stated before, but I haven't found any on those sites yet.

most of us get wood at a hardware store and work with that

[afireinside195]

does it matter what kind of ps2 controller i get to rip apart? i was gonna get this one:
http://gamestop.com/product.asp?product%5Fid=801671

good?

and also , is it reliable to use a ps2 to dreamcast converter? Is their lag , or times when the button doesnt come out?i was gonna get this one:

http://store.gameasylum.us/dcdreamtops2.html

who uses a converter ?can you write your experiences with it. Thanks

[Mixah]

i use a converter

you can't use a PS2 controller. just use a PS1 controller

and yes, teh converter works fine

[afireinside195]

i use a converter

you can't use a PS2 controller. just use a PS1 controller

and yes, teh converter works fine


what do you mean you cant use a ps2 controller? are you just talking about this particular one? im really confused , someone just clear this up for me ....

[ParryPerson.]

Couldn't you at least try searching or reading the thread? If anyone would read this thing thru, they be come masters at stick making in knowledge alone.

PS2 Dual Shocks are not preferd for hacking, the analong buttons are a no no, no one uses PS2 pads for hacking sticks.

You are looking for a PS1 Dual Shock 1, not a PS2 pad.

[afireinside195]

Couldn't you at least try searching or reading the thread? If anyone would read this thing thru, they be come masters at stick making in knowledge alone.

PS2 Dual Shocks are not preferd for hacking, the analong buttons are a no no, no one uses PS2 pads for hacking sticks.

You are looking for a PS1 Dual Shock 1, not a PS2 pad.


Okay , thanks

[Mixah]

somewhat funny story...

i get an IM from this dude, panicking about his stick... he had no idea that you could use ANY non analog controller, a normal nothing special run of the mill drill bit could be used to drill the button holes, and you don't need specially treated wood for the casing... i hate life

[Postman~730]

who is the dude that sell the custom made stick? I was at a CTF Tourney for 5.1 and I saw The Realyst stick. He told me to come here and look for the thread in these forums, but to No avail I cant find it. Is it this one?

EDIT: he hooked up Realyst shit too!!! Im willin' to pay for it, I dont care!!!

Double EDIT: he charges around $160 I think to make them, anyone have any ideas of who he is????

[TheRealNeoGeo]

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90296
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35226

[MrT]

Excellent...:) i looked at a few methods of how to connect one ground but how would you do two grounds i drew a quick example of how i think it's setup i only used 4 buttons/with microswitches because i didn't want to add more and i know there are connections to the joystick but i didn't want to get to detailed is this how you would go about setting up to ground wires?http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/40/sketch2uq.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Couldn't you just connect the chain of the ground wires to connect to the stick, or do u make a new wire for the stick like in ViCtiM's diagram (http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/40/sketch2uq.jpg) and also do you only connect the ground wire to the stick once or four times for Up, Down, Left, Right?

Sorry if this is a stupid question, just want to know.


Also, take this Sanwa Joystick (http://www.himuragames.com/images/joystick_8Y_04.jpg), where would the wires connect to? Is it those pins on the top-left?

[j1nl0ng]

Okay, I've made my stick, now I wanted to make a custom art encased in a plastic shell (kinda like the street fighter anniversary sitck) does anyone know how to do it, or where you could get that service from?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

artwork underneath plexi right? If that is what you want. You must read this thread. It is in here. Once you find it, you can thank me later. Everything you want to know about how to do the holes on the plexi and fastening is in here.

[j1nl0ng]

okay thanks guy, 'll go thur this big boy on find it

[bk2099]

just thought i'd post a pic of my stick that i built a while back but never got around to posting it... the buttons are happs, the joystick is a perfect 360 and the pcb is from a hip gear xbox controller...

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b168/megaman132/stick/IMG_0956.jpg

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Good job. I like the artwork.

[ragnafrak]

hey guys, figured i'd post my current stick.. still kind of in progress... no artwork yet. i made the mistake of using wood putty instead of wood filler.. so my screwholes are ugly

http://s88281144.onlinehome.us/newstick.htm

[TheRealNeoGeo]

ragnafrak
That is really nice! Also, the insides are very good man, great work ^_^.
What kind of artwork you gonna use you think?

[UltraDavid]

I did a search on this and couldn't find anything, so sorry if this has already been addressed.

I have a competition stick that I really like with the exception that it's just too tall. I'd really like to make it shorter, it's much more comfortable for me. At first I tried just mounting the stick lower so that less of it protruded, and while it looked shorter, that didn't really change the fact that I still needed to move the stick a long way to make it respond. Then I tried moving the little white collar-like pivot cylinder from the inside of the stick to the bottom, just under the e-ring, so that the part of the stick that pivoted was lower. That put it at a great level, but the problem was that the stick could move laterally a little bit because the pivot cylinder wasn't inside taking up space like it's supposed to.

I'm not sure what to do now. I'm thinking about cutting away the lowest 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch of the stick's plastic shaft area in between the metal and the actual bat part so that I can keep the pivot cylinder inside and the pivoting part of the stick will still sit lower because there won't be so much plastic length sitting on top of the pivot cylinder. The only thing is, I don't know how to do that. What would I even use? Is that even a good idea? Anyone have any solutions?

[Radish]

i was wondering if anyone you guys know the exact mesurment for each piece of wood on the boxes like dreadedfist used to make, his old style of boxes for the happ sticks. I really like those measurements..
liek tihs one
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/1376/stick23xn.jpg

[Toggleme]

I did a search on this and couldn't find anything, so sorry if this has already been addressed.

I have a competition stick that I really like with the exception that it's just too tall. I'd really like to make it shorter, it's much more comfortable for me. At first I tried just mounting the stick lower so that less of it protruded, and while it looked shorter, that didn't really change the fact that I still needed to move the stick a long way to make it respond. Then I tried moving the little white collar-like pivot cylinder from the inside of the stick to the bottom, just under the e-ring, so that the part of the stick that pivoted was lower. That put it at a great level, but the problem was that the stick could move laterally a little bit because the pivot cylinder wasn't inside taking up space like it's supposed to.

I'm not sure what to do now. I'm thinking about cutting away the lowest 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch of the stick's plastic shaft area in between the metal and the actual bat part so that I can keep the pivot cylinder inside and the pivoting part of the stick will still sit lower because there won't be so much plastic length sitting on top of the pivot cylinder. The only thing is, I don't know how to do that. What would I even use? Is that even a good idea? Anyone have any solutions?


Your second solution should work. That is the general way to drop the stick deeper into the box. I dont understand what you mean by the stick moving laterally a bit. I just tried it on my comp and there was no play in the stick.

I think you did the same thing but let me clarify: I took off the e-ring and pulled out the stick, slipped off the white collar, put the stick back in followed by the actuator and then the white collar, finally replace the e-ring. I did this and had no issues. The lateral play you are talking about is almost non-existant on my stick.

So you were talking about how you modded your sf:ae stick, there is a black plastic collar that old stick if you need to use a collar for spacing issues. Maybe a minimal amount of any collar will fix the play in the stick.

[Radish]

what did you guys use to cut your plexiglass holes??
same drill bit as to cut the wood holes?

[acido]

so has anyone hacked a xbox 360 controller yet ???.

i hope psone controllers are supported on ps3's

[Mert]

Finally finished my stick:


http://teamdenjin00.tripod.com/id12.html


Major props to my boy Nastradamus for the artwork :tup:

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Finally finished my stick:


http://teamdenjin00.tripod.com/id12.html


Major props to my boy Nastradamus for the artwork :tup:

A SF:AS Mod right? Nice artwork.

[Mert]

A SF:AS Mod right? Nice artwork.


Yes, thanks

:china:

[bvtsekc]

was wondering who still making joysticks?

[Locus]

hey guys, i looked thru the thread, but i was trying to find pictures of custom sticks that have two pcbs connected on the inside of the stick housing. from what ive read a bridge would be the best way to do this? is that correct? i plan on using the xbox reflex stick pcb and either a madcatz or original dreamcast pcb. i have seen the project box versions for these pcbs but i think just the two pcbs in the stick will be fine. well i thought about doing a ps1 and getting converters, but its seems that it will be cheaper to hack the reflex stick since i can get it on ebay for only 16 bucks and i already have the dreamcast pads. and i wouldnt have to worry about input lag or anything that happens with the converters. is that right? i would only have to worry about the wiring of the pcbs together and getting both of them to work.

[dial911]

Can anyone tell me where the soldering points should be on the following PCB (it came out of one of those really cheap official Saturn Sticks):

http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/5020/cam06369iq.jpg

Picture of controls:
http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/305/cam06394uo.jpg

Picture of buttons:
http://img470.imageshack.us/img470/6711/cam06402rr.jpg

Thanks all!! :wgrin:

[TheRealNeoGeo]

dial911
http://arkadesticks.com/pcbhelp.JPG
The black is the ground and red are button. If you look at your pcb (put it in your hand and look) you see that on it the ground is connected (the light green is connected to every ground point). If you understand me then the rest is really easy ^_^.

[dial911]

Good stuff RealNeoGeo, thank you for your assistance :woot:

[MaybeMemories]

can you guys recommend any full tutorial, good few links on the first page, i think the hardest thing would be making the box !?

[ImMrDurp]

I'm with Maybe Memories. I need a full tutorial on how to make a MULTI-CONSOLE compatible joystick (PS2 and Xbox), and reading through sites like www.arcadecontrols.com has only left me more confused. I don't know what buttons to buy, how to wire anything, or how to make it multi-console (I know how to build a case, and I know what type of joystick I need :)), let alone make it compatible with Xbox Live. May I please get some help besides "Read the Thread"?. I've started reading (I'm on page 7), but I seriously cannot read through 127 pages to find one post on how to make a stick multi-console, or one link to a full tutorial. Please help!

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

adjust your page settings to 40 posts per page to leasen your reading. I have 79 pages, and if you go in print friendly view, you'll be able to see the whole thing and just scroll through. Maybe that will help, if not the almighty search, but even that becomes tidious.

[ImMrDurp]

How to go I to printer friendly view? Anyways, basically what I need to know is simply how to make a stick multi console, and how to wire it. Any help?

[tomorr0w]

Durp: http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-18815.html This is probably the printer-friendly version. Hope it's what you're looking for. I remember reading something on multi-system sticks somewhere in this monster. Look through the posts or search barrier strips in the archive [edit] The topic of why a barrier strip is useful came up and multi-console use was one of them. For wiring, look at the links on the first page.

Does anyone know the diameter or size of the black disk around the joystick? Is there anyway I can make it smaller so it doesn't cover my stick art?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

You don't really have to use it. A friend of mine made his artwork with Cable covering his stick and without that joystick ring so you can see the artwork more.

[tomorr0w]

Good to know that, but is there any chance you have a pic of it?

Oh, and I forgot, do you really need a nut wrench for the buttons?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

damn, whatever happened to the attach filel option? Anyway... I believe I do on my site, just let me find it and I will post the link. No. You do not need a button wrench.

http://www.rotendo.50megs.com/images/joshs_stick_still2.jpg

[Shin Ace]

For multi console sticks, try an advanced SRK search for "multi AND console" in hardware forum...

When I tried it, I saw 4 results out of 10 that have the info in it. I'm not going to beat a dead horse.

[acido]

if youve ever thought of making a custom joystick go for lexan it will save you loads of time and might come out cheaper in the long run after you destroy your third acrylic sheet lol, after trying lexan im never going back to acrylic again the thing just wont crack i drill it, used a spade bit , used that little cylinder with teeth in the sides to grind the hell out of the sides but it still wont crack.

oh and if your looking for PCB's ask for the series H that is a liscensed copy cause the original PCB's on series H psone dualshocks have that ribbon and has a diffrent mapping than spiffyshoes hack.

[Shadow5587]

I would like to know what the Tekken 4 stick is, what are the buttons, stick, etc. I really like it but want a customized version with different graphic and bat top. Any help appreciated.

[startreker]

There are just too many pages of writting. I have some spare joystick parts and a spare dreamcast wire. Are there any tuturials on how to make my own quality arcade controller for dreamcast? The really good offical dreamcast controller at the min. is $60 a piece at ebay and even then I am stuck with their design frame.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Tsk, tsk, tsk... I know that they are many pages to surf through, but with the page options you can shorten your views. Have it showing 40 posts per page to help. It should now be 80 pages instead of 160 or whatever... Use the advance search option and try things like dc controller and such to narrow your search.
**new years resolution is to add a link to 'important pages' or frequently asked questions with the link provided to the questions answered.** Keep in mind, this will take about 2 months as I am really busy with other things right now. Peace

[leaveal]

if youve ever thought of making a custom joystick go for lexan it will save you loads of time and might come out cheaper in the long run after you destroy your third acrylic sheet lol, after trying lexan im never going back to acrylic again the thing just wont crack i drill it, used a spade bit , used that little cylinder with teeth in the sides to grind the hell out of the sides but it still wont crack.




you found lexan?? where?

[Locus]

thanks! i studied those threads a bit lol hopefully i get everything right! :wgrin:

~Locus

For multi console sticks, try an advanced SRK search for "multi AND console" in hardware forum...

When I tried it, I saw 4 results out of 10 that have the info in it. I'm not going to beat a dead horse.

[zxcv_87]

Hi, i have no skills with working with wood, but these custom arcade controlers intrest me. I would love to make my own. Now the part thats un clear to me is how to cut hole in the wood to place the buttons. How would i do that?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

zxcv_87
Buy a holesaw:
http://www.geocities.jp/mimiin/diary/2003-02/20030203-holesaw.jpg

[Paik4Life]

Hey everyone,

I just had a couple of questions. I did read up a lot since this is my first time attempting to build a stick. I read the Sanwa mod thread and various other threads, but this whole thread was a little large so I just tried using the search for what I needed so if this has already been answered I'm really sorry! More than anything I just want to make sure what I'm planning on doing is correct.

Here's the lowdown.

I'm making a PS arcade stick (I pretty much retired from gaming and only recently started getting back into Tekken 5 in preparation for DR's mass release). I'm never going to use it for any other systems more than likely. I'm going for the Spiffy Shoe's solderless A-series hack. I have two of them on hand (I did check them for the ribbon cable so it's all green!) Because I'm kind of a OCD/neat freak I wanted to keep this as clean as possible. Thus in addition to the A-series hack, I'll be using quick disconnects (I'm going to solder the wires to the disconnects for added security, but other than that no soldering). I'm ordering all Sanwa parts from Rod (JLF and snap ins).

Questions:

1) Since I'm using quick disconnects and the solderless hack, there's really no point in using barrier strips, correct? From my understanding it's just another method of easily replacing parts (either the buttons, joystick, or the PCB) when you solder to the parts.

2) Like I said, I'm a neat freak so the next thing I'm doing is probably going to seem pointless to most of you. There is one wire from the PCB that is designated as a ground which I know needs to go to each button and the joystick. I'm trying to find a way to do this WITHOUT daisychaining because I don't like how it looks/performs. Thus I've been racking my brain trying to figure out how to "split" this one wire amongst 9 (8 buttons and 1 joystick) different ground points. I asked at some places to see if there is such a thing as a wire splitter connector of sorts to no avail. What I finally settled on is using an "terminal grounding bar kit" (http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/14-47-grounding-rods-clamps/equipment-grounding-bar-kit-607099.aspx). I figure I could mount this into the case, connect the live ground wire to it and then have 9 additional wires that connect to this and go to each of the buttons/joystick locations so I have one wire per ground connection. I know this is a little risky since there's no insulation protection (like plastic around the barrier strips) but I figure since all my wires are insulated, there will be very little chance of problems.

3) Kind of directed towards TRNG since it's a question based on one of the insides of his stick (http://www.arkadesticks.com/Untitled-1%20copy.jpg) but open to anyone who can help. I see that you route out the wood area around the buttons and joystick and put in a metal sheet. It would appear that you use the lexan/plexi and the sheet ONLY to secure the buttons (and in turn the buttons hold the sheet to the lexan). Is this true or is there a thin layer of MDF/wood separating the metal and lexan that is used for additional support? I'm guessing for the joystick you don't use a metal sheet and just route out a little less so you can bottom mount with the mounting plate directly to the wood.

And that's it! Those are my major questions about the insides. Designing the box is something I have yet to do. I'm not experienced with woodwork so have to think about it a lot and figure out exactly how to prodcue the shape that I want so I'm sure I'll be asking questions about that in the near future. Thanks for everyone's help!

~Paik

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Paik4Life
1. You don`t have to use barrierstrips, you can just solder to the buttons and joystick (or in your case hook them up with quick disconnects). I use barrierstrips because:
A: It looks good and organised.
B: It helps the stickbuyer to change anything with ease.
C: Did I mention it looks good? ^_^.

2. I guess you could use that also, yes.

3. Well, for the buttons, first off I route out on the top of it (2mm), then route out a hole and then put my 2mm metalplate on it and screw it in (the metall is fastened with 5 screw in the mdf, yes 5). And then I put lexan over it.
I use a 6mm metalplate for the joystick and yes I route out and screw it in the wood also, just like I did with the 2mm metalplate for the buttons.
Take a look at this:
http://www.arkadesticks.com/boxmaxp.jpg

[Paik4Life]

Thanks for the quick reply!

Wow! Just plain wow! That is so much more detailed and creative than I had previously thought! The pics really help with the instructions.

I was thinking about using the barrier strips anyway because they do a great job of organization. I bought some (American style) and even bought some spade terminals to use in conjunction with them (again OCD so I don't want to use just stripped wire).

My biggest concern was definitely organization/splitting of the ground wire so thanks for reassuring me that my sort of unusual idea will work.

That 6mm metal plate you use is a replacement for buying a mounting plate for the JLF/Flash, correct? And it looks top mounted upon closer inspection, am I right?

Lastly, from the picture I noticed that you make your sticks out of a solid block of wood. I was wondering how you got it to that shape and with the insides looking like they do. That just seems like a lot easier than working with MDF and putting the pieces together and such. It has to be a good deal more solid as well.

You and finkle are my inspiration to stick building, seriously! You and your wood boxes are amazing and I love finkle metal fabrication. I hope to become HALF as good as you guys in the distant future! Thanks again!

~Paik

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Paik4Life
The 6mm metalplate is for mounting on top yes (as you may see I routed out the top for it). Also, it don`t look like that when I mount it, I always spraypaint the metalplate with "zinkeffect" so it won`t rust or anything like that and keep it 100% new all the time.
About the box, you must have very good equipment when pulling this off, I don`t use any regular stuff nowdays and I get help from my dad alot because he has a friend who works in a small woodshop and he has routers and big sandmachines.
But it is not as easy as you think, haha. It is still A LOT easier to put pieces together with glue so my advice is to go with that.
It is very solid yes.

[ParryPerson.]

Ok, guys, a couple of questions for you.

How do YOU mount the PCB in your stick? I thought velcro would be a dandy idea, but it didn't work so good..... hot glue? A screw?

Just trying to find new ideas and better idea's on how to mount one.

[zxcv_87]

Hey can one of you stick makers film yourselfs making a stick? It could be like a "How to video.."

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

I actually have a short clip of me and a friend in the beginning of building a stick, but that is it. We were in the testing phase of filming and never got it completed due to time and our job (Marines- we were in different units and such) It's like 4 minutets of something along there, maybe even shorter. Not really worth looking at because we really didn't teach anything, just talked about the panels and reason to rout the part out for the joystick. REALLY CORNY!

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

I updated the links and have added some new ones. Working on a new layout for my site that is more user friendly and picture friendly.

If you are buying Happ parts, I just found a seller on ebay that sells new happ parts cheaper than you would pay over at their official site and with a 2 day delivery!

I just bought 2 new competition joysticks for only $26.98 with shipping! Over at Happs, I would have paid $27.90 for 2 comps without the shipping and without the handling charge which would have came around $37 or so.

The ebay seller's name is bottlenose58 and tornadoterrysdot (same person I assume since both ship from same town, same stuff, same everything)

Oh, you're welcome!

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Ok, guys, a couple of questions for you.

How do YOU mount the PCB in your stick? I thought velcro would be a dandy idea, but it didn't work so good..... hot glue? A screw?

Just trying to find new ideas and better idea's on how to mount one.

Me, I screw mine down by using any holes on the pcb if they are available. If not then I drill some of my own, but make sure that if it's a two sided pcb that has traces on the other side not to drill through any of them. I use tiny screws small enough to get through the pcb and to the wood. You could also use a project box to hold your pcb. I've seen a VHS cassette case used to house a pcb. I'll be trying to post some new pictures up soon on my photobucket account and post the links.

[stupid newbie]

I just finished soldering all the bits and pieces on my custom stick, and checked everything with a multimeter and it seemed to be fine, however I ran into probelms when I went to use it.

Half the time it works fine, the other half the time, buttons won't activate and the joystick position switches on/off repeatedly (so if I were to hold down it would act like I was quickly alternating between down and neutral). I assume this is due to faualty wiring (most likely a ground wire as when one of the buttons doesn't work, non of them work). However I have the joystick and buttons connected to ground at different places, yet whenever the buttons screw up, the stick screws up, and vice versa, which seems kinda odd since afaik they're connected independantly, so I was wondering if there was likey to be any other cause before I triplecheck my connections to the ground.

[ParryPerson.]

Ok, what do you guys do for the cord? hole? drill a slot? leave a slot?

[MrHadoken]

Greetings. I'm a 3rd Strike player from Chile.

I will buy a Sanwa Joystick (JLF-TP-8Y), Mounting Plate (8YT) and a Octagonal Restrictor Plate (GT-Y). I suppose that all those parts are compatible.

My doubts are focused to the construction of the superior panel. I understand that I need to make holes for the stick, but will I have to route the mounting plate portion to get it mount well?. I will use plexi.

Is metal mounting plate extremely necessary for the buttons (OBSF-30)?

I want to replace the ball top with a bat top, is it difficult?

Excuse my bad english. Thanks in advance for any help.

Alonso.

P.S: Sorry, I had posted in a wrong thread (I deleted the previous post)

[dosu]

You just unscrew the ball top to remove it, you dont need metal to mount the buttons and stick, but its always better to have it more solid, but good lexan will do fine also. its strong. but i think plexi will crack with some force.

[SNkNuT]

looks like i'm going to build my own stick. what kind of wood do i use when building the box for my stick?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

SNKNuT
Most people use MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard).

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

For the cords I usually drill a hole near the bottm of the back board before I put the box together. Then before complete assembly, I insert the pcb and assemble the rest.

As far as wood, I usually work with particle board over MDF. It's not as messy and cheaper and I don't have to worry about extra work like routing out the joystick base a little in order to have a decent length of the joystick sticking out and not having a 'short stick'.

[SNkNuT]

as for the plexi-glass i'm about to use, whats the best way to make holes in them without them shattering or break? and how do i soften the sharp corners?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Because I feel like being nice, I'm going to tell you instead of saying search and read this whole thread, lol.

With the plexi clamped on top another piece of wood, drill your holes as you would if it were wood only slowly at first, then at a high speed. Don't press too hard, let the spade bit do the work. Once it gets through, stop and remove the 'disc' (hole) off of your plexi/drill bit.

[SNkNuT]

thanks rotendo. :sweat:

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Also, for you guys who want`s to make it nice when putting in the pcb in the box:
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96700

[final_cut]

http://static.flickr.com/41/99248399_92f3476019.jpg?v=0

http://static.flickr.com/42/99248406_93393d2eae.jpg?v=0

Just thought I would share. I've never seen a mounting job like that on the stick.

[SNkNuT]

meh. it seems like these tutorials are a few years old. the pcbs, imo, have changed alot and now i don't see huge tracts of copper anymore. instead i see copper marks like [----] where [ ] are copper and the ---- is somekind of black strip. how do i work with these pcbs?

and yes the pcbs are from a mad catz microcon and performance dual impact 2 for ps2.

[yougotslayed]

Does anyone know if I can just change out the joystick and buttons in my X-Arcade Solo stick? And if so what should I replace them with, my current problem with the stock stuff is that certain moves are harder to pull off then in the arcade like Super Arts. thanks ahead of the time for the help.

[Paik4Life]

meh. it seems like these tutorials are a few years old. the pcbs, imo, have changed alot and now i don't see huge tracts of copper anymore. instead i see copper marks like [----] where [ ] are copper and the ---- is somekind of black strip. how do i work with these pcbs?

and yes the pcbs are from a mad catz microcon and performance dual impact 2 for ps2.

Most people still use these old PCBs for that very reason. They are a lot easier to hack. PS2 Dual Shocks have analog buttons making it more difficult. It's possible, but is it really worth the work for a new stick builder? I'd have to say no...Even the most experienced stick builders still use PSOne Dual Shock or original Dual Shock 1 (specifically A series because of SpiffyShoes solderless hack). Newer isn't necessarily better...

~Paik

[SNkNuT]

I thought only ps2 dual shocks pcbs worked with converters like ps2 to xbox. does the dual shock 1 work with ps2 to xbox converters? if so i'll use those pcbs.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

SNkNut
Buy the PSOne pads, they work great with converter to xbox, DC, gamecube et.c...

[NiteWalker]

If you're just making a stick for ps1/ps2 useI recommend the following pads:

The street fighter pad- Can be found for $15 or less now and are probably the easiest pads I've ever soldered to. Official too!

The Mad Catz digital ps1/2 pad- Getting harder to find but check the used accessories section at EBgames or gamestop. You can usually find them for about $1.

Sony digital ps1 pads- Because they're official and to an intermediate ar even someone with good observation skills they're not too difficult to solder to. Really beefy cords too.

One more thing: get a multimeter or continuity tester to check all your connections before you wire it up to a stick so any connection problems are evident from the start.

[SNkNuT]

heh. my gamestop had those official street fighter pads new for $6.99

those are my new pcbs now.

[-= SnapOut =-]

Does the 360 Joystick http://www.happcontrols.com/joysticks/50608300.htm carry a joypad as well. I'm trying to understand the process of making the joystick but i'm kinda stumped on what joypad(brain) i'm specifically looking for.

My joystick will be used for my dreamcast mainly.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

-= SnapOut =-
By "brain" you are meaning PCB. Try to get a good DC-pad with big solderpoints so it will be easy for you. If you are using psx also then best would be a PSOne pad, then you can buy a converter for DC.

[final_cut]

I've been searching through this thread, and couldn't seem to find info on how thick the wood should be for mounting a happ stick. Can anyone give me advice on this? Thanks! I've only just recently gotten a happ stick.

It seems like the shaft height is adjustable, any info on how you can work with that would be cool too.

[laurie47]

hey per, do you use a table router or a plunge router? your cuts are very straight!

[NiteWalker]

What kind of happ stick is it? I think the ultimate is the one that allows for mounting in metal or wood control panels. I'd stay away from them though. Happ made some poor decisions when designing them.

As for the height, it's really a matter of preference. Most people mount them around 1/2"-5/8" below the surface of the wood. So if using 1/8" lexan and 3/4" MDF or particleboard then you'd want to rout a 3/8" deep recess for the joystick to get the 1/2" depth, or rout a 1/4" recess for the 5/8" depth.

You can eliminate routing alltogether by buying some 1/2" MDF just for the top. This will give you the 5/8" mounting height (1/2" MDF+1/8 Lexan). This is as thin as I'd go for a top though (the 1/2" MDF). Anything thinner might flex.

[final_cut]

What kind of happ stick is it? I think the ultimate is the one that allows for mounting in metal or wood control panels. I'd stay away from them though. Happ made some poor decisions when designing them.

As for the height, it's really a matter of preference. Most people mount them around 1/2"-5/8" below the surface of the wood. So if using 1/8" lexan and 3/4" MDF or particleboard then you'd want to rout a 3/8" deep recess for the joystick to get the 1/2" depth, or rout a 1/4" recess for the 5/8" depth.

You can eliminate routing alltogether by buying some 1/2" MDF just for the top. This will give you the 5/8" mounting height (1/2" MDF+1/8 Lexan). This is as thin as I'd go for a top though (the 1/2" MDF). Anything thinner might flex.

Its a happ competition stick. I put it in the title, but not the post, sorry.
But thanks, that is useful information.

[NiteWalker]

Wow I'm blind...:looney: :looney: :looney: :looney:

Anyway no prob man. Glad to help another builder.
Peace.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Just won a stick off ebay. It arrived and apparently the seller didn't know what it was for, just sold it (won it for $5) as is. Come to find out, it was for the SNES. The case is hard plastic, rubber feet covering the screws, ultimate buttons (r/w/b), some type of ultimate joystick