The Official Custom Arcade Sticks Thread

[infiniteomega]

Can someone explain...... I have a modded anniversary stick with Happ parts. On MY PS2 and xbox it works fine. Yet on other Ps2's it wont work. Ive checked all my connects and wires they look good. I have 2 of them both modded with Happs. I know Nuby made 2 different anniversary sticks.

They changed the box, wires, and the added lotsa GLUE.

Also would a modded PS2 have any thing to do with it? Mines not modded but when I went to a tourney their PS2 was.

I worked hard on this stick even tho its not from scratch but I made it a six button with new plexi and put the start select on the side. Nice and clean looking.

http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i33/infinitwar/

Play a game that uses lots of rumble. If normal gamepads don't rumble then you've probably blown a fuse. For some reason multi-console sticks like to use that circuit to get power. I had a similar problem with my v12 ps2 and my pelican real arcade joystick. I wound up tracking down the blown fuse and bypassing it instead of replacing it (it's tiny).

[vkuwabara]

I have a little question: is this stick easy and worth modding with sanwa JLF-TP-8Y??
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j206/kukukulus/controlekonami.jpg

well, I opened this one. Inside it's ALL SEIMITSU!
the stick is undoubtely a LS56-01. The buttons, I think they are PS-14-G.

However, I'm having some problems with it. I'm using an Innovation adaptor PS/DC. Motions like with sent: laser, fly/unfly is unaccurate. Overall, it's difficult to hit 2 buttons at once and get a clean response. I switched to a T5 and I didn't miss a thing! My guesses:
1- the buttons' solder is broken
2- the PCB is damaged
3- the voltage! it says 3.45V, 10mA, is it ok?


Inside it's like a Namco Arcade Stick (that little one with yellow buttons) the buttons are soldered directly to a PCB.

[-= SnapOut =-]

What is the exact size of the drillbit to make holes to fit convex buttons?

Is home depot the best place to get them for a low price, i live in canada?

[elvis_a_presley]

What is the exact size of the drillbit to make holes to fit convex buttons?
Depends on the brand. Happ is 28mm. Sanwa is 30mm.

NFI what that is in non-metric. But who cares, as only 2 countries in the world still use imperial measurements anyway. And they should really catch up to the rest of the world. :arazz:

[NiteWalker]

For us imperial slowpokes it's 1 1/8" for Happ and 1 3/16" for sanwa.

Yeah...Metric measurements are much more precise.

[vkuwabara]

how's the voltage in modded sticks, HRAP and DC Agetec?

[-= SnapOut =-]

For us imperial slowpokes it's 1 1/8" for Happ and 1 3/16" for sanwa.

Yeah...Metric measurements are much more precise.


ok cool cool, cause i have a official capcom joystick template so it says the same thing for the buttons. I just wanted to confirm it tho, thanks.

Do you guys make your holes after you varnish your wood or before?

Do you guys add any type of special casing to to give your stick somewhat more of a professional look?

I'm making my top board open upwards with hinges, that way i can always see whats going on if nessary, u think thats a alright idea?

[elvis_a_presley]

how's the voltage in modded sticks, HRAP and DC Agetec?
Voltage doesn't matter for sticks unless you're using optical components that need to be driven by 5V. For standard microswitch buttons and sticks, you don't need to worry about voltages.

If you do have optical sticks, the best resource I've seen for finding 5V sources and wiring into them is this page:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jdpyle1/controls.htm

Do you guys make your holes after you varnish your wood or before?
Do all your drilling and sanding FIRST. Never drill/sand after you've painted or varnished. Not to mention that after any drilling a light sand is always recommended.

If you drill after paint/varnish, you can chip the coating, and if it's still tacky end up with sawdust embedded in the finish. Ugly stuff.

[-= SnapOut =-]

good thing i asked before i did anything. What type of wiring should i ask for to solder?

Also what do u find more convient and more of a professional look, contact paper or plexiglass+artwork?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

either 18 - 22 awg hookup wire from RadioShack (solid or stranded)

The latter looks nicer, but contact paper is cheaper if you're on a budget

[-= SnapOut =-]

seeeeeeeeeeeeeeen Rotendo

now that thats straight how did Capcom get their side surfaces soo nice and professional looking like this link here.http://img.bruktmarked.no/big_30449_sf_hori_mob_topp.jpg


See how their side edges are smooth and roundish like, what is the name of that strip that they use to strap around the edges?

[elvis_a_presley]

good thing i asked before i did anything. What type of wiring should i ask for to solder?
I'm a network admin by trade, so I've always got heaps of CAT5 network cable lying around. I usually strip the outer coating off, and use the wire inside. It's great stuff, easy to solder, and cheap as crap. Plus there's 8 strands in every bit of cable which is usually available for 20-50c a meter (ie: 8 meters, thanks to their being 8 wires internally). It's all colour coded too, which makes wire tracing easier when it's in bunches.

[NiteWalker]

Do you guys make your holes after you varnish your wood or before?

Do you guys add any type of special casing to to give your stick somewhat more of a professional look?

I'm making my top board open upwards with hinges, that way i can always see whats going on if nessary, u think thats a alright idea?
Definitely before, elvia_a_presley explained why.

I Cover my joystick cases in plastic laminate (the stuff on countertops). It comes out super durable and loos very professional.
Here's my most recent finished stick:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/NiteStick/th_nitestick_058.jpg (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/NiteStick/nitestick_058.jpg)
I used black laminate from lowe's on it.

I make all my sticks bottom accessable rather than top accessable. Reason being that There's not much need to see what's going on inside unless you plan to change out the PCBs often. It's more work to make the top a flip up.

For wire I use 22AWG stranded from radio shack. Never had a problem with it. I prefer stranded over solid because stranded has more flexibility.

For artwork, nothing beats custom art and lexan.

The strap is called t-molding.

[Larry S.]

ey.. i need a new stick.. i'm likin' sanwa's way too much . i'm not the type to do it myself . my ideal stick is like a byrdo.org stick with plastic instead of metal or wood. so i can ding it around and not feel bad. i've had like 5 big mas sticks. so i'm tired of lugging anything around. help a brotha out? like tell me if any of you guys can do that for me and toss me a price. SALOMONGB@yahoo.com -L.

[-= SnapOut =-]

Definitely before, elvia_a_presley explained why.

I Cover my joystick cases in plastic laminate (the stuff on countertops). It comes out super durable and looks very professional.
Here's my most recent finished stick:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/NiteStick/th_nitestick_058.jpg (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/NiteStick/nitestick_058.jpg)
I used black laminate from lowe's on it.

I make all my sticks bottom accessable rather than top accessable. Reason being that There's not much need to see what's going on inside unless you plan to change out the PCBs often. It's more work to make the top a flip up.

For wire I use 22AWG stranded from radio shack. Never had a problem with it. I prefer stranded over solid because stranded has more flexibility.

For artwork, nothing beats custom art and lexan.

The strap is called t-molding.



---------------------


Very very nice, i like the effort you put int your work. So all the black surfaces are Laminate, or did you mean the top board which you used to protect your artwork?

Sorry, and how did you get that red strip to go around your top board, thats EXACTLY what i need as well.

[50-fiftytrap]

I'm currently wanting to build my own stick. I was wondering what are the sites that I may order sanwa buttons and sticks from?

[NiteWalker]

---------------------


Very very nice, i like the effort you put int your work. So all the black surfaces are Laminate, or did you mean the top board which you used to protect your artwork?

Sorry, and how did you get that red strip to go around your top board, thats EXACTLY what i need as well.
All the side surfaces are covered in laminate (the black stuff). What I use on top is Lexan or any genaric polycarbonate. It's like acrylic but is shatter/crack resistant. You can drill it with no fear of cracking.

For the t-molding (red strip), you need a 1/16" slot cutter. 2 of the best places to get them are routerbits.com and mlcswoodworking.com. I get all my bits from routerbits.com because they carry the best brand around (Whiteside) and the prices are VERY cheap.

@50-fiftytrap
PM ponyboy on these forums for your part needs or if you don't mind waiting a bit, http://www.akihabarashop.com/
Also, if you go to the BYOAC forums look in the buy/sell/trade for richardp171's thread. Very cheap prices from him.

[-= SnapOut =-]

Ok cool cool, i'm not really into the shopping online thing, i know a guy who works at the arcade and he ordered parts for me and i bought it from him. Thanks for the info on T Molding, i'll be looking around Home Depot today for that stuff.

Do you assemble your game pad on the same wood as your joystick/buttons, or do u leave it on the bottom?

I am also looking for a the exact same japanese stick that most arcades usually use, does somebody have a link for them?

[-= SnapOut =-]

Damn finding T molding(rubber) is hard, Home Depot doesn't even carry it. I also asked for laminate, shit cost $50 bucks Canadian and its a big fucking sheet, like 6 feet, i have to look somewhere else for a smaller size cause they don't provide it.

[NiteWalker]

Don't be afraid to shop online. www.tmolding.com is an excellent place for t-molding. Very high quality stuff there.

Also for the laminate, are you sure somewhere in HD they didn't have any cheaper? At the one I go to they have 2'x4' pieces for $12us. If not, call around local cabinet shops and ask for offcuts.

To answer your PCB mounting question, I mount them on the same wood as the controls, or even the sides. The bottom is left clear.

Here's a sample.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/NiteStick/th_nitestick_055.jpg (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/NiteStick/nitestick_055.jpg)

[-= SnapOut =-]

what drillbit do i use for the joystick hole, is it the same as the buttons i got myself a 1 1/8, do i use that for my joystick hole as well?

[NiteWalker]

Same drill bit for Happs. 1 1/8".

[thedahmerkid]

Nitewalker, I really like the art on the your stick.

What kind of router do you use? Could you suggest any cheap ones that are sufficent for the minimal routing need to make a good stick?

[NiteWalker]

There's a $60 router made by Ryobi at Home Depot that worked great until I broke mine a month ago. Here's the link:
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=misc%2fsearchResults.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@1986996781.1152701611@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccggaddifjmkkjicgelceffdfgidglo.0&MID=9876
Note that it only takes 1/4" shank bits, which aren't the greatest in terms of quality. Now, they have another router for $100, but it's also a plunge router. It also takes 1/2" shank bits. Much better in quality. Here's that one:
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=misc%2fsearchResults.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@1986996781.1152701611@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccggaddifjmkkjicgelceffdfgidglo.0&MID=9876
And if you insist on saving money:
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=misc%2fsearchResults.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@1986996781.1152701611@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccggaddifjmkkjicgelceffdfgidglo.0&MID=9876

Besides the first Ryobi router, I own 3:
Bosch 1617EVSPK (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005RHPD/qid=1152701930/sr=8-1/ref=pd_bbs_1/102-8406218-3977744?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=228013)
Porter Cable 694VK (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYFG/qid=1152702005/sr=1-1/ref=pd_bbs_1/102-8406218-3977744?%5Fencoding=UTF8&s=hi&v=glance&n=228013)
Triton MOF001KC (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DINFHY/qid=1152702065/sr=1-1/ref=pd_bbs_1/102-8406218-3977744?%5Fencoding=UTF8&s=hi&v=glance&n=228013)

The Bosch is a very smooth running router and comfortable to use. The Porter Cable is a VERY heavy duty machine, designed for hours on end use. I love it. And the triton is excellent as a dedicated plunge router.

Most importantly though, are the router bits. For those I highly recommend www.routerbits.com. They only carry Whiteside brand routerbits, but honestly, they are the best and cheapest out there. Fine Woodworking did an endurance test with 17 brands of routerbits and Whiteside came out on top. Another brand to look at is MLCS (http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routerbit.html). They're router bits I've heard nothing but good things about and they ship free.

</router obsession>:pray: :pray: :pray:

Yes I am a router freak. If someone was determined they could make a joystick with nothing but a router and a few bits.

[-= SnapOut =-]

shit i got my drill bit 1 1/8 and the drill i have isn't even powerful enough to drill all the way through the wood, is this really done by a drill or do you guys use those bigger machines that drill holes in the wood with a lever?

Also what kind of Bolts do i use to hold the joystick in? I noticed that the heads on those are flat and roundish like.

[laurie47]

I have a cheap wicks router and a DeWalt plunge. I love routers.

[NiteWalker]

@laurie47:
I've seen a thousand different and never a wicks...How does it handle? Whick dewalt plunger? The 621 (a workshop fav around here)?

@-= SnapOut =-:
I use this one. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006JSPI/qid=1152730592/sr=1-2/ref=pd_bbs_2/102-8406218-3977744?%5Fencoding=UTF8&s=hi&v=glance&n=228013)
$59 and works great. Never stalled once yet. Always go corded. They have more torque for the $$.

As for the screws to hold in the joysticks, I use 1" machine screws from Home Depot/Lowes. If you look at the pic here you can see them in action.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/NiteStick/th_nitestick_055.jpg (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/NiteStick/nitestick_055.jpg)
Make sure you get the right washers and nuts to fit.

[thedahmerkid]

Thanks for the info guys, I'm going all that stuff out. Laurie47, by cheap do you mean like $150-$200?? I'm trying to spend less than $200 for a jigsaw and a router, I already have a good drill. I've seen a $30-50 jigsaw, and a routers for no less than about $100, I just wonder if they are adequate.

[-= SnapOut =-]

All thats left is to solder my wires to the gamepad, i already have all the wiring ready on my cherry switches, i just need to know if i need to have something on my end wires before i solder it on to my gamepad?

Like can the cooper alone be soldered on to the gamepad i'm asking, or do i need to have something over it?

[NiteWalker]

The copper can be soldered to the gamepad just fine. If you do have trouble though, tin the wire by putting a little bit of solder on it.

[laurie47]

The wicks for the price is amazing, £30 $55. It has 6 speeds and is very sturdy. Only down side is no on off only a trigger, so when its in my ghetto table I have somebody hold the trigger for me.
But it spins the bit and thats what counts.
Not sure which dewalt it is, I will check tomorrow.
Wish I had my own workshop :(

[NiteWalker]

nice. Some people actually prefer the trigger for better control. Not me though. I like a positive on/off switch. The triton probably has the best of that.

It is great having a dedicated workshop, or at least a corner of a basement. Where do you do all your woodworking?

[ParryPerson.]

ok I'm a router newb, I have no idea how to route out the depth of the mounting plate on my seimitsu, (LS 32 -01) how would I go about doing that? It's a very thin amount to route out.

[laurie47]

I live with my GF in a 1st floor apartment so cant do any here. I go up to my mothers partners shed to work. I do most stuff in the garden on a work-mate. Its annoying having to keep moving tools about, table saw, router, mitre saw, pillar drill. I want to have everything set up in one place. We are looking for a property with a garden so we can have a shed and a Weinmaraner :) But property i silly money here in the south east.

[thedahmerkid]

Alright, I got hopefully only one more question and then I'll be ready to put everything together in my stick. I started a new thread for this as well, which maybe I shouldn't have done.... but too late now. I cannot find pics or descriptions of the solder points on the Street Fighter Anniversary Pad for PS2 anywhere. I found the pics for the xbox version, but its much different. At the moment I only have one of these controllers and I don't want to screw it up and then have to find more before I can resume work. Pics or good descriptions would be so helpful. Nitewalker, I know you use these and you've been great so far with all the questions I have;) Thanks in advance, and thanks for the previous help.

[-= SnapOut =-]

Need a site that shows me how to specifically hack a SEGA DREAMCAST controller for my joystick.

[thedahmerkid]

http://arkadesticks.com/hackedpads/Dreamcastofficialpad.jpg

thats from the official pad hacking thread on this board, started by therealneogeo.

**i don't know where the grounds would be on that, but i don't know alot about pad hacking. all the tutorials i've seen include such a minimal amount of information, it's like, if you don't understand, it won't help, and if you do understand, you won't need the tutorial.

[NiteWalker]

Alright, I got hopefully only one more question and then I'll be ready to put everything together in my stick. I started a new thread for this as well, which maybe I shouldn't have done.... but too late now. I cannot find pics or descriptions of the solder points on the Street Fighter Anniversary Pad for PS2 anywhere. I found the pics for the xbox version, but its much different. At the moment I only have one of these controllers and I don't want to screw it up and then have to find more before I can resume work. Pics or good descriptions would be so helpful. Nitewalker, I know you use these and you've been great so far with all the questions I have;) Thanks in advance, and thanks for the previous help.

Answered in your other thread:tup:

@Laurie47:
It's good you have a place to do your woodworking, even though it's not your own shop. Yeah, moving tools would get annoying to me...My table saw weighs 200lbs :wasted:

[-= SnapOut =-]

As for the screws to hold in the joysticks, I use 1" machine screws from Home Depot/Lowes. If you look at the pic here you can see them in action.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/NiteStick/th_nitestick_055.jpg (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/NiteStick/nitestick_055.jpg)
Make sure you get the right washers and nuts to fit.[/QUOTE]
-----------

So today i'm gonna ask for 1 'inch Machine Screws, i also need to pick up those white "balancers"that are used to help hold/balance the screwed "circuit board" in place. I'll show u a pick

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c131/culoluver/MountedBoard01.jpg

look for the white things holding the screw, what are those called?

[Loads]

what exactly are those plastic little squares that are securing the ps2 cord with little push tie things, and whered ya get em?

[NiteWalker]

So today i'm gonna ask for 1 'inch Machine Screws, i also need to pick up those white "balancers"that are used to help hold/balance the screwed "circuit board" in place. I'll show u a pick

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c131/culoluver/MountedBoard01.jpg

look for the white things holding the screw, what are those called?

I'll check for the exact item to look for at Home Depot. I still have the packages for the screws, nuts, washers and bolts downstairs in my shop. When I go down there later tonite I'll grab em and post em for you.

The white plastic things you're refering to are called PCB feet. Here's the best place to get em.
http://cgi.ebay.com/FOUR-4-PCB-FEET-4-JAMMA-ARCADE-GAMES_W0QQitemZ260008132794QQihZ016QQcategoryZ1371 8QQcmdZViewItem

Keep the questions comin! For some retarded reason I CANNOT SLEEP:looney:
But I'm tired...so that's why this may seem like a disturbing post...



what exactly are those plastic little squares that are securing the ps2 cord with little push tie things, and whered ya get em?


They're called cable tie mounting bases. I got em at Home Depot. They're in the electrical section. Lowes has em too.

Peace.
NW

[RedSunMisfit]

nothing special
just my dead PCB stick:rolleyes:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v122/fc3s_138/Img067C.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v122/fc3s_138/Img0AA5.jpg
camera phone pics:sweat:

[-= SnapOut =-]

yo, this is what yalls information has helped me do so far, i know its still not finished but i can't beleive how much i've managed to get done with the information yall provided thanks.

I'm gonna add a nice set of varnish to the board, some T modling to the top board edge as well as the side boards.

Artwork & plexiglass will be added as well.

Tonight i will be soldering the wires to the Sega Dreamcast gamepad tonight, if yall have any other suggestions to add on please let me know.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c131/culoluver/pics028.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c131/culoluver/pics029.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c131/culoluver/pics033.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c131/culoluver/pics031.jpg

[50-fiftytrap]

Coo stick -=snapout=- is that your 1st one.

[PAYBACK]

nice stick
how did you drill the holes and where did you get the parts from?

[-= SnapOut =-]

50-Fiftytrap: Yeah its my first one, they say its always your worse looking one, but so far i'm happy with accomplishing what i've done so far. There is always room for lil things, but for now i just wanted to show everybody and idea of what unfinished stuff look like.

Payback: I got all my information about board sizes fromhttp://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/box.htm, i copied the Pro Stick Clone. Once you know which wood is what, understanding where you will be nailing it becames pretty easy.

I got my parts from a guy at a dead arcade, they get parts really really fast so it wasn't a problem for me to buy off of them, paid $32 for 7 and cherry switches with a stick.

Wiring i picked up from Radioshacks's "The Source"

[50-fiftytrap]

It looks good to me. I hope my 1st one comes out like that I've been trying to gather info on how to build a good one, and find a really sexy looking box design. I think I'm gonna cheat and just get some box measurments and take them to home depo and let them build:lol:. I like how you can open it like a desk. Easy access to the inside if there's ever a problem, and yea looks like you could put some games or something inside there when you traveling or something.

[-= SnapOut =-]

Well pesonally if i see a style i like i just go with it, and save myself the trouble of coming up with custom designs, thats just me anyways. I live in Canada, so alot of the extra things that i'm looking to add are a lil bit more expensive, but you should be able to find all supplies you need for a good deal, considering you live in the states.

Have you decided which game controller you're going to use?

[50-fiftytrap]

Yea Dual Shock 1 I play 3s so I need to make a PS2 stick.

[-= SnapOut =-]

alright, i'm sure you will find all the information you need on the joystick thread, goodluck. So are you only building this just for sf anniversary edition, or for other games as well?

[50-fiftytrap]

Well I'm gonna play GGXX:slash on it, but mainly for 3s. I'm building it because I have the old PS1 ( back when it 1st came out) Ascii arcade stick, and my micros are warn out on the stick so it's time for a new one. I have a suck web cam, but maybe later I'll put a pic of it on here so ppl can be like :wow: " you played w/that thing". :lol: It had a good run though.

Edit: I decided to not be lazy and put them up now.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k189/MIST-AH/Picture001.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k189/MIST-AH/Picture002.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k189/MIST-AH/Picture003.jpg

Again really bad web cam. Sorry :sweat:.

[-= SnapOut =-]

I have never seen that in my whole life ahahahahaha. That looks somewhat niceeeeee. What is that Sawna Stick or whatever?

[50-fiftytrap]

I don't really know if it's sanwa. I'd have to open it up and look into it. It might be I'm not sure. It ain't pretty but like I said it's had it's share of game play. So yea I need a new and much sexier stick :lol:.

[-= SnapOut =-]

I'm pretty pissed i was soldering my joystick and after all the work nothing is working. However for some weird reason if i hold fp then push any other button or direction it works just fine. I beleive once i get my fp button fixed everything will work in sequence but i've been doing it about 4 times and nothing has changed, i tried to double check if my quick connects were on properly and when i tried playing the stick over again, NOTHING WORKS, except assis 2(hk).

I give up for the night.

[dfoo]

I don't really know if it's sanwa. I'd have to open it up and look into it. It might be I'm not sure. It ain't pretty but like I said it's had it's share of game play. So yea I need a new and much sexier stick :lol:.

:lol: My friend has that stick.

[Paik4Life]

I'm pretty pissed i was soldering my joystick and after all the work nothing is working. However for some weird reason if i hold fp then push any other button or direction it works just fine. I beleive once i get my fp button fixed everything will work in sequence but i've been doing it about 4 times and nothing has changed, i tried to double check if my quick connects were on properly and when i tried playing the stick over again, NOTHING WORKS, except assis 2(hk).

I give up for the night.

If everything works when you hold FP down then that means you've wired something incorrectly. I'm going to make one major assumption so correct me if I'm wrong.

You're daisy-chaining grounds, correct?

If that is the case then you most likely wired the have incorrectly wired a GROUND wire to the FP in place of the LIVE wire (on the PCB). Additionally, the GROUND chain of wires is NOT soldered to the GROUND on the pad (I'm guessing you wired it to the FP actually).

My reasoning why it works when you hold down FP and input something else would be because there is GROUND connection to one of the microswitches (not the daisy-chained GROUNDS but the other one that's supposed to be the LIVE). When you hold down the button, what it's supposed to do is bridge the GROUND and the LIVE. Since no other buttons or directions work normally that means your daisy chains are not the GROUND or every single one of your other inputs are incorrectly soldered. The latter cannot be true since they do correctly register when you hold down FP. That means the only thing it could be is that the daisy chain is in fact NOT the GROUND.

The GROUND however is being provided by somewhere and since everything works with FP pressed that means the GROUND is coming from that button but not from the daisy chain since we've elimated that. That means that it's coming from what you thought was the LIVE. When the button is pressed the two microswitches are bridged and the actual GROUND now connects with the daisy chain and sends the signal to all the other buttons and so obviously they now work.

So to sum up:

1) You didn't solder your daisy-chain to the correct place on the PCB. I think you soldered it to whatever you designate as FP.

2) The FP LIVE is soldered incorrectly. It is soldered to the GROUND.

Basically swap those two places and you should be fine.

~Paik

[Jushiness]

This is what i'm going to replace my current overlay on my arcade stick with... thoughts?
Also if anyone can find me a better picture of suija [samurai showdown 5] i would appreciate it n.n


http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b22/justinhopkins/jushiarcade4.jpg

[-= SnapOut =-]

If everything works when you hold FP down then that means you've wired something incorrectly. I'm going to make one major assumption so correct me if I'm wrong.

You're daisy-chaining grounds, correct?

If that is the case then you most likely wired the have incorrectly wired a GROUND wire to the FP in place of the LIVE wire (on the PCB). Additionally, the GROUND chain of wires is NOT soldered to the GROUND on the pad (I'm guessing you wired it to the FP actually).

My reasoning why it works when you hold down FP and input something else would be because there is GROUND connection to one of the microswitches (not the daisy-chained GROUNDS but the other one that's supposed to be the LIVE). When you hold down the button, what it's supposed to do is bridge the GROUND and the LIVE. Since no other buttons or directions work normally that means your daisy chains are not the GROUND or every single one of your other inputs are incorrectly soldered. The latter cannot be true since they do correctly register when you hold down FP. That means the only thing it could be is that the daisy chain is in fact NOT the GROUND.

The GROUND however is being provided by somewhere and since everything works with FP pressed that means the GROUND is coming from that button but not from the daisy chain since we've elimated that. That means that it's coming from what you thought was the LIVE. When the button is pressed the two microswitches are bridged and the actual GROUND now connects with the daisy chain and sends the signal to all the other buttons and so obviously they now work.

So to sum up:

1) You didn't solder your daisy-chain to the correct place on the PCB. I think you soldered it to whatever you designate as FP.

2) The FP LIVE is soldered incorrectly. It is soldered to the GROUND.

Basically swap those two places and you should be fine.

~Paik


So judging by the pics i sent of my stuff, would u say the wiring is wrong at that stage?

[Paik4Life]

The pics you put up are totally irrelevant to what I posted. I told you that you are not soldering the beginning of the daisy-chain to the GROUND on the pcb. I also said that you more than like soldered the FP wire to the GROUND on the pcb. That is your problem...If you want help you would need to post up pics of where each wire is soldered on the pcb, but I can be 99% sure that what I said is the case even without seeing the pcb.

Again:

1) Check to see that your daisy chain is soldered to an actual ground on the pcb.

2) Check to see if your FP is soldered to the actual LIVE on the pcb.

~Paik

[-= SnapOut =-]

Well now none of my circuit boards are being read by my dreamcast, i had all the buttons working at one point without holding anthing...only thing new is that they only work when i jump.

So yeah don't know what i did but my dreamcast can't even read both my controllers, i guess there isn't anything i can do about it now huh?

[Paik4Life]

Man, you're having loads of trouble. It may be a problem with your Dreamcast if it isn't reading any controllers, obviously. But if it's only not reading pads that you've hacked, you've probably hacked them incorrectly. In the very worst case, ask someone to do the pads for you. It will probably save you a lot of time and headache. Also that way you can compare how they did it to how you did it and see your mistakes. Good luck.

~Paik

[-= SnapOut =-]

Yeah i'm gonna ask a guy i know who has professional experience in the area. I'll have to try new dc controllers on my dreamcast to see what type of problem i'm dealing with. I'm hoping i can still use the same controllers i had...but from what i read the official dreamcast controller is easy to ruin.

[tolkien]

well today i figured since i bought my dremel for something else and that ive completed that project, id put it to use again on my hrap

basically i just did what some others have done with their hraps and cut the bottom plastic part out, so to change parts all i need to do is unscrew the bottom panel and i can just leave the top panel as-is

so far i havent noticed any significant difference in noise

http://www.tolkano.net/hrap/new.inside.jpg

[-= SnapOut =-]

Just curious, if i open my dc controller and decide to plug it into my dc without the masking, shouldn't it still work?

I'm asking because after all the struggling i've been through to get my joystick working i just decided to deattach all soldered wires and leave it for my friend to do. So now that all the wires are deattached i try to plug in the one with the memory card in it and nothing is happening.

You think it has something to do with the cover?

[-= SnapOut =-]

Since i have some left over board from my first project, i thought i'd get started on making my first japanese style. Does somebody have the exact button layout template that i can use to drill my holes with? I tried over google and i didn't see anything that looked like exact measurements, try to help, thanks.

[50-fiftytrap]

I goggled it also and came up w/the same luck. So I would like to know too. Also I'm geeked cause I ordered my parts so hopefully I can get to work on this ASAP!

[The Fireboy]

Alright, I got a problem with my stick (As to what I'm unsure, I didn't make this stick. Snake did a long time ago) it worked perfect up until about two nights ago, I opened it up and can't seem to find the problem, I know power is getting to it. But the wiring is so messy that finding a broken lead or something is pretty tough. I think it might be a the ground wire is broken but I'm somewhat worried about checking. I wanted to know if there's anything else that could just simply make it not work anymore.

I know power is getting to it, and I'm fairly certain the connection to everything else is working okay but I'm not sure.

[-= SnapOut =-]

Yeah i found a link over good for a template, but the only problem is its flipped in the wrong direction.....does anybody have a problem they can use to flip it so the joystick is on the LEFT SIDE?

http://www.jammaboards.com/guides/joystick_buttons_rounded_template.jpg

[50-fiftytrap]

I'm pretty sure any program that gives you a rotate option will let you flip it and save it. If you open it up in my pictures ( assuming you XP) then you should be able to rotate it.

[SaveFighting]

Yeah i found a link over good for a template, but the only problem is its flipped in the wrong direction.....does anybody have a problem they can use to flip it so the joystick is on the LEFT SIDE?

http://www.jammaboards.com/guides/joystick_buttons_rounded_template.jpg

Here you go.

http://xs304.xs.to/xs304/06303/Arctemp.jpg

:sweat:

[-= SnapOut =-]

PERFECT!!!!!!, Don't yall agree?

Thank you so much for your help buddy

[50-fiftytrap]

Yea but now the words are backwards as well. Well I'll have to make due how close is the stick to the buttons? Does it say that on there somewhere. Ahh it's like reading a map wrong.

[SaveFighting]

Here is a template TheRealNeoGeo PMed me last year.

http://arkadesticks.com/templatearc.jpg

:)

[laurie47]

Its not backwards, you just drill and mark the underside of your top panel.

[50-fiftytrap]

I was talking about the words. I have a question about that second temp I'm only making a 6 button stick, because I don't see the use in having 8. So the arch on the button layout on the second template save posted is that the correct arch normal 6 button arcade sticks have?

EDIT:Never mind I looked at other sticks and I answered my own question.

[UltraDavid]

So I got a Sanwa JLF recently and then took the stick with me on my trip to the UK. In order to fit in my suitcase, I had to disassemble the joystick, and then when I went to put it back together, for some reason I couldn't figure out how to do it. Can someone tell me the order the various parts go in? And should I re-lube it?

Also, here's a random question: does Happ make shorter pushbuttons? I like Happ buttons more than Jap buttons (the click, mainly), but they're too long to fit well in one of the sticks I made, which I originally created to be compact and to have Jap buttons.

[edwardcb]

I have two sfac joysticks and a stand built for them to sit on. They have been used continuously for almost two yrs now.... One of them still works perfectly, however the joystick on the second one is very sticky. Is there a quick fix for this or do i need to replace the bat entirely?

Also occasionally the leads will pop off the buttons... they can put back on but i haven't figured out a way to crimp them down tight... any suggestions?

great thread i particularly like looking at everyones custom sticks... they are abosultely f*ing amazing.

[Komboku Breika]

So I got a Sanwa JLF recently and then took the stick with me on my trip to the UK. In order to fit in my suitcase, I had to disassemble the joystick, and then when I went to put it back together, for some reason I couldn't figure out how to do it. Can someone tell me the order the various parts go in? And should I re-lube it?


This should help: http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l314/Beartron/JLF-TP-8Y.jpg

You can't go wrong re-lubing it, but it's probably not necessary unless you wiped all the grease off.

[Komboku Breika]

I'd like to know how Byrdo, Suite53 and others fasten down their Lexan overlays without visible screws on the surface?
See here (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y239/suite53sticks/?action=view&current=Brandon-002.jpg&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch2) and here (http://byrdo.org/images/Arcade%20Stiks/Baiken1.jpg) for examples.

[vates sciurorum]

2 things:

1) cut your lex/plex PERFECTLY
2) use screw-in buttons to keep the stuff down

On some boxes, the side of the lex/plex is exposed on one or more sides--if your stick's like that, might be best to go for screws.

[laurie47]

Yup you need to cut it exactly to size. so when you put it in its tight in the recess. If done properly you can even use snapins without fear of your lexan/acrylic moving.
Also if you use metal or ply for your top panel it will be flatter than wood, this helps too.

[Master Chibi]

Stupid question, is it possible to take the 'wiring' of a HRAP1 and re-wire with a PS1 dual shock controller, you know so I can play games on the computer with it and all that?

:O

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Yo, I don't normally asks questions in my own thread, but I just finished a generic Agetec -> PSX mod. Everything works great, but for buttons 1 and 4 (jab/short) They are beginning to stick and I have to open up my agetec to push out the top button and pull up on the white square like spring thingy to move it again. I can't press the two buttons too hard or else they get stuck. It's not a cleaning issue or the button is sticky issue, it's the white square shit that is pressed down into the black housing that holds the nc/no (connects to the mini white harness that gets stuck. Any suggestions? I can't even tap them lightly. I tried prying the little black harness thing open to look for spring inside or something else but I couldn't get to and was afraid that if I tried to hard it'll break..

[NiteWalker]

The buttons are probably at the end of their life cycle. If at all possible, replace with real sanwa buttons. Here's a good source for buttons and he ships quick:
http://stores.ebay.com/plm171_ARCADE-PARTS_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ98918QQftidZ2QQtZkm
Because the buttons don't have a traditional spring like Happ buttons (they have the white rubber things you mentioned; much like the rubber "springs" in game pads), they wear out over time. And it's also the reason they're so sensitive too.
I definitely recommend replacing with sanwa buttons if you're using the stock buttons.

There's nothing wrong with asking questions in your own thread! We're all here to help and learn. :rock:

[Master Chibi]

Stupid question, is it possible to take the 'wiring' of a HRAP1 and re-wire with a PS1 dual shock controller, you know so I can play games on the computer with it and all that?

:O

;p???

[Seerd]

Stupid question, is it possible to take the 'wiring' of a HRAP1 and re-wire with a PS1 dual shock controller, you know so I can play games on the computer with it and all that?

:O
I've heard the HRAPs are ok for converters. But even if they aren't, Original/CFJ HRAPs use wires with quick disconnects, so some shenannigans with a soldering iron should be able to make it work with Dual Shocks.

I've got an HRAP (supposedly) coming to me in the mail soon, so I'll keep ya updated. If it doesn't lag like crazy on the SmartJoy, it should be good to go.

[Master Chibi]

I've had my HRAP1 for two years now (I think) and it's always lagged on converters. I'm not one to touch the inner workings of it either (I'd likely fuck it up) and I'm basically trying to ween myself off of pad all together, hence my asking.

If soldering would alleivate the problem then all the better, please keep me updated.

: (

[Komboku Breika]

Yup you need to cut it exactly to size. so when you put it in its tight in the recess. If done properly you can even use snapins without fear of your lexan/acrylic moving.
Also if you use metal or ply for your top panel it will be flatter than wood, this helps too.

2 things:

1) cut your lex/plex PERFECTLY
2) use screw-in buttons to keep the stuff down

On some boxes, the side of the lex/plex is exposed on one or more sides--if your stick's like that, might be best to go for screws.

Wow, I can't believe they'd go that far to achieve a flawless finish. That's just crazy. I guess you'd use a ply panel for screw-ins and a metal one for snap-ins. No harm in trying, if it fails just bolt the lexan down.

[vates sciurorum]

It's not so bad really--and another thing: if you're using plexi, and you cut the stuff too wide, it's suprisingly easy to sand down to fit.

[NiteWalker]

If you have a router just use the stock metal plate with a flush trim bit and a spacer and you'll get an exact copy. No sanding needed.

1. Cut the lexan to rough shape. It's a good idea to use a backer of 1/2" MDF to give the lexan support as it's normally very flexible. Secure the 2 together with double sided heavy duty carpet tape. The easiest way to roughcut the blank is to trace the metal plate on the lexan/MDF and then use a jigsaw to cut close to the line but not touching. The reason for this is that you'll get a much cleaner cut if the router doesn't have much material to remove.
2. Double stick tape a piece of 1/2" (or 3/4" or whatever you have) MDF to the roughcut on the MDF side (underneath). This piece should be close to the roughcut size but smaller so the routerbit has no contact with it.
3. Double stick tape the metal plate to the piece you just taped on.
4. Put another piece of MDF like in step 2 on the metal plate.

Your sandwich is complete. Go pour a glass of code red and enjoy your sandwich.





J/K
This is what your sandwich should look like.
In order:

1. Lexan
2. MDF stiffener
3. Undersized spacer
4. Metal Plate
5. Undersized spacer.

Here's the reason for each layer.
1. This is the lexan. The piece you are shaping.
2. MDF stiffener. No need this to prevent mangling your lexan.
3. Undersized spacer. Because the metal plate is so thin, you need some space for the flush trim bit's bearing to properly ride against it.
4. Metal Plate. Call it the master template. This is what the flush trim bit's bearing rides against to cut the MDF/Lexan blank above.
5. Another undersized spacer. So the bottom of the router bit doesn't hit your workbench/table.

Now, how to do it.
1. Securely clamp the sandwich to a workbench or table. Use 2 clamps.
2. Set the router bit's depth so the bearing rides on the metal plate. Try to position it so that the metal plate is riding against the center of the bearing. Less chance for a screwup this way.
3. Start at the front edge of the blank to the right of the first clamp and rout around counter-clockwise.
4. When you get to the other side (the left clamp), you'll have to reposition and reclamp the blank to the table. Since all the layers are double taped together, you don't have to worry about your lexan moving.
5. Finish the cut, remembering to rout in a counterclockwise direction always.

When you're done, not only will you have a perfect duplicate of the metal plate, but you will also have a standard template to use in the future. The stiffener was cut along with the lexan so it's also an exact duplicate of the metal plate. So if you need to make another just double tape a lexan blank to the stiffener and have the bearing ride along the stiffener and the lexan will be cut spot on every time. If you plan to do it this way and keep the stiffener as a template I recommend using baltic birch plywood as the stiffener as it is much more durable than MDF.
Here's a couple of good sources:
http://www.bargainbirch.com/commerce/index.php?cPath=21&osCsid=6b8792f198edcb31672527de825e3b81
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=846&SearchHandle=DADBDBDDDADADDDGGGDDDBGDGFDEGCDJCNGDD IDBGDCNDEDDDCGFCNGCGFGFGDCNGFDGDHDCDBDDGDDGDCGGDGD IDADADADBDADADADBDCGCGBGMHEGJGDCAGCGJHCGDGIDADADAD EDADADADADADADADBDFDADADADBDADADADADADADADADADADAD ADBDADADADBDCGCGBGMHEGJGDCAGCGJHCGDGIDADADADBDB&filter=baltic%20birch

I have done it this way for an Hori SCII metal plate. It works great and is practically flawless. Just make sure you don't tip the router.

I'll post pics of this when I do it again.

NOTE:
I think when I take pics of the process I'll move this and make a tutorial thread.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

The buttons are probably at the end of their life cycle. If at all possible, replace with real sanwa buttons. Here's a good source for buttons and he ships quick:
http://stores.ebay.com/plm171_ARCADE-PARTS_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ98918QQftidZ2QQtZkm
Because the buttons don't have a traditional spring like Happ buttons (they have the white rubber things you mentioned; much like the rubber "springs" in game pads), they wear out over time. And it's also the reason they're so sensitive too.
I definitely recommend replacing with sanwa buttons if you're using the stock buttons.

There's nothing wrong with asking questions in your own thread! We're all here to help and learn. :rock:


Thanks. That was what I was afraid of... replacing the damn buttons. With EVO around the corner, I'll have to settle to use my modded Pelican arcade for 3S instead of my Pl-Agetec-tion (Plaguetection, whatever lol)

[50-fiftytrap]

Can anyone tell is there a major difference in play if you TOP mount or BOTTOM mount the joystick?

[PAYBACK]

I use the PS Arcade to make PSX/PS2 controllers. Every single stick I've made was SOLDER FREE. .

Other soldering free controlllers:
Agetec
Performance DC controllers (the one's with turbo/)
Enforcer?
Other perfomance controllers?


how do you connect the wires to the copper joints of a pcb without soldering?

[Paik4Life]

He more than likely used A series solderless hack or some pads also don't need to be wired. For examples some PCBs have wires coming directly off the PCB and go to the buttons (especially arcade style sticks like Xbox Reflex). So you could just splice some wires, or just cut the wires leading to the buttons and just crimp QDs on the end of them.

~Paik

[PAYBACK]

He more than likely used A series solderless hack or some pads also don't need to be wired. For examples some PCBs have wires coming directly off the PCB and go to the buttons (especially arcade style sticks like Xbox Reflex). So you could just splice some wires, or just cut the wires leading to the buttons and just crimp QDs on the end of them.

~Paik

Thanks so much Paik
You're a wealth of information!!

[thurst]

my boy is trying to get a stick...

http://www.lik-sang.com/info.php?category=22&products_id=4615

good/bad?

[ParryPerson.]

thats not exactly a custom stick...

[Pifactor]

What exactly is top mounting, and how would you do it? I'm guessing it's when you mount the joystick from above the top panel instead of underneath it, but i have no idea how that would work without drilling a huge hole.

Any help would be nice.

[Paik4Life]

As you said, the way to do it is to mount from the top of the panel. To do this you must route out an area on the top where the mounting plate would fit into and then secure it into the wood. That's all top mounting is.

~Paik

[Pifactor]

Can i solder onto a ps2 pad the same way as on a ps1 pad? I'm just wondering since iirc, ps2 pads are analog.

[UltraDavid]

So how does the mounting plate for the Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT compare with the mounting plate for the Seimitsu LS-32 in size and location of screw holes?

The Sanwa stick I got turned out to be useless after I took it on the plane with me to the UK, so I have to buy either a new Sanwa or a Seimitsu. I'm leaning toward Seimitsu because I generally like harder springs and less throw, but the problem is that I've already constructed the stick and everything for the Sanwa. If the Seimitsu base is different enough that it wouldn't fit in the hole I've made in the wood and metal in my stick, then I'll just go with a Sanwa again. Anyone know whether they're interchangeable?

[Paik4Life]

If you go to Akihabara Shop and go to Joystick Accessories, you will see all the different mounting plates. Per recently made schematics for every single mounting plate availabe so that will help you out.

The short answer is that JLF and LS32 do not closely match at all.

~Paik

[Villainous]

How do you get custom graphics on your stick? Do certain stores offer a screening that can get a picture off my computer onto the wood?

[RushingMonkey]

print it on (photo) paper and put it under a plexi / lexan panel ;)

dunno about your second question though. but it would be cool lol

[Villainous]

print it on (photo) paper and put it under a plexi / lexan panel ;)

dunno about your second question though. but it would be cool lol

Are you sure a piecer of computer paper is the size of a stick enclosure? Doesn't seem like it would be.

[Paik4Life]

RushingMonkey is right. That's what I do for all my custom sticks. If the face of your stick is bigger than 8.5x11 then you obviously need to get a bigger print at like Kinkos.

~Paik

[Villainous]

So how do you keep it looking nice if you have to put holes in it to get the stick/ buttons through?

[RushingMonkey]

well, I think the most common method is to use the plexi panel as a blueprint and cut the holes on the artwork with a cutter. the bezels of the buttons cover up the edge of your holes so it's not a big problem if they don't look thaaaaat nice.

[Villainous]

Thank you!

[Rise Vader]

I didnt want to make a new thread so ill ask here. Is there a list somewhere of the current custom stick makers/sellers? I am purchasing a new stick with my next paycheck and i wanted a custom one made.

Thank you

[Paik4Life]

I actually compiled a list of current builders on another forum (where I am a mod) just a couple of days ago. Go here:
http://www.tekkenzaibatsu.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=95468

Go to Post #2. The first post is information on where to buy game related goods like parts, machines, PCBs, etc. The 2nd post is what you're looking for.

Also, you can check the SRK Trading Outlet as well here:
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=226

~Paik

[AlphaKami]

I've been building sticks for over 10 years now, but I recently started messing with Sanwa parts, and I"m hitting some issues.

Button issues:

First off, I'm using Sanwa 30mm screw types in 3 different type panels. Metal (18 guage steel) MDF 1/2 inch but routed down to a little under 1/4 inch where the buttons mount, and hardwood (high quality Braziallain Teak hardwood flooring) this stuff is super-dense.

No matter how tight I get the plastic nuts (and I"ve tried flipping the nut over) they vibrate loose after about 1-6 hours of playtime. I'm thinking of using some light thread-locking compound or teflon tape. I do want to be able to get this shit back apart at some point. Any suggestions?

I'm using .110 slide on connectors as well, and those are seeming to do the same thing... vibrate loose after intense gaming. Is there a particualr type that works best for sanwas? can you use .187's? I don't want to solder them to the terminals...

Joystick issues:

I'm using a Sanwa JLF with an 8 way. I have the wiring haness ground soldered directly to the pad, and I have tried running the button chain ground to the same spot, a different spot, and even adding up to a total of 4 different grounds back to the pad. I"m still getting a glitch. This DOES NOT happen on my old school Happ P360. I'm only playing GGXX/ right now. And this is not a case of me missing the input either. I'm very 'combo proficient'

Anyway, I've noticed it very specifically with HCF and QCF moves. In particular Ky's Stun Dipper (QCF+Kick, 236K) and Stun Edge (QCF+Slash, 236S) You can also do a full half circle and the input will work fine and well. Anyway, it seems that if you do the input on the exact frame and hit the button at the same frame as the stick passes from 3 to 6 position, it skips the 3, so the input reader at the bottom of the screen in training mode reads 2,6,K, thus Ky does only his 6K. I tried testing this with a full HCF as well. when I did the Kick a touch after 3, I got the move, but again if what felt like just frame the K, the input read 4,2,6,K, insted of the full 41236K.

It seems to skip corners. I'm using a PS original Non-analog Official Sony Pad. The wires aren't excessively long, in fact, they are very short, only as long as necessary to go from the pad to the button. My wiring work is VERY clean.

If I circle the stick as fast as possible, the input shows me over and over that it's hitting all directions.

Any experienced builders have any ideas? It's pissing me off. I prefer Sanwa parts now that I've used them, but if I can't get rid of this glitch, I'm gonna have to go back to P360's. It actually affects gameplay. I can remember at least 10 times last night in 4 hours of play, not getting a QCF move to come out. Just to see if I could do it once years ago, I tred to see how many fireballs in a row I could throw with Ryu. I quit at 2500. I also quit at 1000 doing Cr. MK xx Fireball, so I highly doubt it's my playing error. Anyway, really appriciate any thoughts on this one.

Thanks guys!
-Tad

[NiteWalker]

Ok, first off, try sanding the bottom of the materials you listed so the button nuts have something for the teeth to grab onto. Maybe 60 grit. Also, the teflon tape sounds like a decent idea.

For the quick disconnect problem, what kind are you using (brand)? I noticed some of the cheaper ones slip off easier and a quick squeeze with a pair of needle nose pliers will fix that problem. Also, when slipping the QDs onto the tabs, make sure they go all the way down. With the QDs I use the fit is very tight and sometimes requires the use of the pliers again. Here's (http://cgi.ebay.com/100-Red-Quick-Disconnect-Terminal-22-18-Wire-110-Tab_W0QQitemZ280017495938QQihZ018QQcategoryZ7285QQ cmdZViewItem) the ones I use. They work great.

For the wiring problem, some pics of your setup would help. I've made sticks with the sony digital pad without any problems including a couple used with GG/. I don't believe the length of the wire matters much. Try replacing the pad with a 3rd party and see if it does the same. The SFAC pad is easy to hack and is perfect for non-converter joysticks.

Been making sticks for 10 years? Let's see some pics. They gotta be looking really good by now.

Peace.
NW

[AlphaKami]

Ok, just got this done, Nite. Go to www.TenKaiGear.com and check the sticks tab at the top. I've recently 'come out of retirement.' so It's more fair to say I"ve started doing it 10 years ago, but I've been inactive for quite a while. ^_^

I've figured out the problem with the QD's... I didn't crimp the first set on, rather soldered the wires, with a really old tip. The connectors will not slide all the way down and some of them are just way too loose. The teflon tape is holding pretty well, along with the light sanding you suggested. Thanks so much for that idea. I'm going to order a few hundred of the QD's you suggested as well.

I just tested the glitch I was having in CVS2. Same thing there as well. Confusing. Only thing I can think of is that the ground chain on the buttons are 18 guage wire, and the ground wire off the pad to the buttons is 24g. I'm too 'self taught' to know all the intricacies of how the pads really work and how many amps and volts etc... Anyway, any advice or feedback would be most appreciated.

[ni-ten]

Is it possible to fit a sanwa without shaft swapping, inside a doa4 hori stick?I think I saw some guy who had done that, but I cant find the link anymore.Anyone can help?

[NiteWalker]

Alpha Kami, I'll check out the pics and see what I can come up with. I'm not sure if the wire gauge matters much. Maybe though.

[supergrafx]

Ok, my daughter's hello kitty stick is coming along. My latest worries concern the choice of two led sanwa buttons I'm installing: the OBSA-P45THA-KP-1F Led Heart kitty pink flashing button, as well as OBSA-60THO in the yellow color Led flashing button. Thinking that the Sanwa led buttons may require additional power (remembering molex for xbox cold cathode connections), I went ahead and ordered the lesser 5v bulbs as opposed to 12v and 24v (I believe these were the other two options). Anyways, I'm using the xbox sfac pad for the "brains of the operation," and was wondering if I need anything other. External power supply or something for the sanwa leds? I'm using these two buttons as the xbox's back, start buttons. 8 pink rg's for the main buttons, a Sanwa jlf-8yt w/ gty for the controller. blah, blah, blah.

[nmbr1krush]

alright I have the OSBN-30 sanwa buttons, and I have a question, how can you tell which microswitch/prong is the ground?

[Paik4Life]

There is no designated ground or signal/live for Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons. That means you can wire the ground to either prong and just use the remaining one for the signal/live.

~Paik

[AlphaKami]

I just came up with a theory on why I'm missing inputs, but I'm not sure if it's valid or not. Anyway, I know the games operate on a 60 FPS basis. Do they read inputs at the same rate, maximum of 60 input 'updates' per second? If that is the case, then it's possible that I'm outrunning the diagonal input, maybe. Moving from a 360 with it's longer travel distance to the Sanwa, I think what is happening is that on frame 1 it reads 'down' then on frame 2 I move from D, to D/F, and to Forward. since it got 2 inputs on frame 2, it only took the final one. Is that possible? I've tried all sorts of shit to fix this error/glitch and I can't find anything. If I do the motions slower, I get one EVERY time.

[bushinryujunkie]

Hey I am doing a simple mod with my Street Fighter Aniversery Edition joy stick and I have been using the arcadestickmonk.com for my source but on that page they didn't specify which Quick disconnects I need to purchase from the Happs site would someone please tell me which quick disconnects I need?

[Taiki]

I just came up with a theory on why I'm missing inputs, but I'm not sure if it's valid or not. Anyway, I know the games operate on a 60 FPS basis. Do they read inputs at the same rate, maximum of 60 input 'updates' per second?

No.

Games read inputs as fast as the console can feed it input.

The graphics run at 30/60(or 50/100 in PAL-land) FPS, but the games themselves process input much faster.

[SentientProgram]

is it possible to put sanwa parts in a MAS stick? i.e use the PCB and all from inside, but just put a new stick and buttons in?

[koi]

is it possible to put sanwa parts in a MAS stick? i.e use the PCB and all from inside, but just put a new stick and buttons in?

You would need to first modify the panel because Sanwa joysticks need to be top mounted and need clearance that Happ sticks don't require. Same with the Sanwa buttons, they need wider holes and won't work with 3/4" thick panels (which I'm assuming MAS sticks use).

[bushinryujunkie]

Hmmm perhaps I was not clear enough? This build requires that I get 18-22 Gauge quick discinnects (2 Per Happ button) well this sounds great and dandy but when I access the Happscontrolls page I get a selection of three difrent types of quick disconnects. I have all of the other parts except the correct disconnects. Would someone please link me or at least point me in the right dirction as to which ones are the correct type?

[orochizoolander]

I don't care if it's custom or not but can someone plz gimme a link to where i can find a stick for use on my xbox? preferably a stick with akuma or sagat design and converters for use on 360/ps3 as well all help is appreciated....damn i been lurking on srk since 2000 n this is my first post in the tech forum lol.

[RightHanded]

I'd recommend just modding the DOA stick.

[DAWOLF57]

Is there any sticks for the PS3 yet?

[orochizoolander]

I'd recommend just modding the DOA stick.

It doesn't work on xbox n that's my primary system i would be using it on (anniversary collection/mvc2/cvs2/svc chaos/kof02 n 03 n neowave/ggx2reload) not to mention that after some research on these on here n some other sites i would DEFINITELY prefer a custom stick with sanwa buttons...i hope byrdo can make me 1:sweat:

[SentientProgram]

Hey, sorry if this is the wrong thread to ask this,

What is the best way to get the formatting right for putting new art on a MAS stick? Is there an image that I can use to overlay with other images so I can see where the buttons will go? or do I have to do all the measurements and try to work it out myself (which I am afraid I will fail at horribly). Thanks for reading.

[FecalPenance]

i need to find a loose spring for my mas stick's perfect 360 and possibly extra competition buttons and button plugs... any recommended retailers, the spring is especially hard to find...

edit: nevermind... ordered some happ ultimate springs/competition buttons from happcontrols.com...

[RyuHikaru]

It doesn't work on xbox n that's my primary system i would be using it on (anniversary collection/mvc2/cvs2/svc chaos/kof02 n 03 n neowave/ggx2reload) not to mention that after some research on these on here n some other sites i would DEFINITELY prefer a custom stick with sanwa buttons...i hope byrdo can make me 1:sweat:

He seems pretty busy right now, but you can always ask.

Off-topic, but I'm from Long Island also:lol: You play anywhere?

[Super Warrior]

Hmmm perhaps I was not clear enough? This build requires that I get 18-22 Gauge quick discinnects (2 Per Happ button) well this sounds great and dandy but when I access the Happscontrolls page I get a selection of three difrent types of quick disconnects. I have all of the other parts except the correct disconnects. Would someone please link me or at least point me in the right dirction as to which ones are the correct type?

I recently completed the SF:AC stick mod. The quick disconnects that worked fine were: .187, 18-22 gauge.

The happ site has some you can buy, or you can also buy them at a place like radioshack.

My SF:AC happ stick:
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o243/BottalkerArcade/SFAC1.jpg
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o243/BottalkerArcade/SFAC2.jpg

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Nice work Super Warrior, but what's up with the color scheme? As long as it works I guess, right?

[orochizoolander]

He seems pretty busy right now, but you can always ask.

Off-topic, but I'm from Long Island also:lol: You play anywhere?


Sometimes at the nathans arcade near roosavelt field mall which is like 15 mins away from me and 04-05 i always went to chinatown fair but havent been there in a while LOL wut arcades r left on LI? there was a bombass 1 in the broadway mall like 5-6 yrs ago:sad:

btw if he can't make me1 u know anywhere else i might b able to get a custom stick?

[FacistPen]

Say, anyone know where I can get something that'll drill a 1-3/16" hole in wood?

I've figured that a 1-1/8" drill bit is too small for the Sanwa 30mm buttons, so I went with a 1-1/4" drill bit, but that's a tad too large. I'm hoping to have something that will drill a 1-3/16" hole in wood for future stick making.

[Super Warrior]

Nice work Super Warrior, but what's up with the color scheme? As long as it works I guess, right?

For the stick: At the happ site the colors to choose from were black, red, blue, yellow, and green. I didn't want to go black as thats the color of the stock stick, and would look the same as if i had not modded it at all.

Plus black is *REALLY overused* when it comes to electronics stuff. Blue, red, and green were out of the question for stick colors, so Yellow was an easy choice and i like it.

As for the buttons, i liked white & purple, and i also set the color-layout kinda like MVC2. With 1 color for the attack buttons, and 1 different color for the assists.

:smile:

[NiteWalker]

Say, anyone know where I can get something that'll drill a 1-3/16" hole in wood?

I've figured that a 1-1/8" drill bit is too small for the Sanwa 30mm buttons, so I went with a 1-1/4" drill bit, but that's a tad too large. I'm hoping to have something that will drill a 1-3/16" hole in wood for future stick making.

Google a 30mm or 1 3/16 forstner". Both the same.

[chippermonky]

Hey guys, time for me to invade this thared, becaues I just realized it existed. It doesn't seem to show up for me when I browse techtalk though. anyways know why?.

edit: makes me feel a little bit emberassed.

[True Grave]

Hey guys, time for me to invade this thared, becaues I just realized it existed. It doesn't seem to show up for me when I browse techtalk though. anyways know why?.

I believe there is a 'Custom Arcade Sticks Thread II'. I suppose this one just got lost and left behind in page 2 or 3.

[chippermonky]

all the posts are pretty recent though D:, I visit this forum like every stinking day and somehow I missed this thread D:

edit: Oh wait I see, someone necroposted recently and I just didn't notice

Okay, I feel a little bit better about myself now :P.

[True Grave]

all the posts are pretty recent though D:, I visit this forum like every stinking day and somehow I missed this thread D:

edit: Oh wait I see, someone necroposted recently and I just didn't notice

Okay, I feel a little bit better about myself now :P.

Someone 'necroposted'? :confused:

What is that?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

This thread has existed since 01/01/2003. That means this thread is 4 years old! The oldest, if not one of the oldest thread on SRK that is till going strong. It was so popular that we ever have a sticks/tech section to post in via the the front page, but you must have an account to post.

There is so much fucking information, it isn't even funny. Only problem is trying to find the damn thing since it spread out over the 100 some pages. I even made a part II, and it was I think early last year that Javi has stickyed a thread including those thread, modding, 360 wiring, and something else.

That is why it isn't/hardly shows up on the 'first page' because it is already sticked (the link anyway) in an existed thread that no one bothers to check first. I might pm him to changed the title of that sticky so people can easily notice it, because those thread still exist.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

The Essential Joystick Thread: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=109037

It's locked, but has 0 posts... probably why no one bothers to check it out.

Also the link to the 'Hardware' section on SRK's 'blog/wiki' thing: http://shoryuken.com/?cat=10

[Shiro_420]

Any chance i can geet some blue prints for a US standerd box?

[soundwave23]

i have a real arcade pro stick 2 and i am not happy with the "looks" of the device.
So i am planning to take the joystick and the MAIN parts like the main buttons and start, select, and put those parts in a self made casing. The question now is is this possible? And how its done? Maybe this question is already posted here for that i apologize. thanx

[artillery]

Is anyone prepared to make me a joystick? I do not have the time or the competence to make one but i do have the money to buy one, we'd talk about the design but it'd be pretty standard.

If you are, please pm me and let me know how cheap you would/could make one + send it to me in London UK.

[koi]

Try asking in the Trading Post artillery.

[SEPU7V3DA-jIn]

whats up guys im new!!:angel:

can someone point me to the right direction? i would like some Info on modding HRAP2 and building joysticks. much appreciated

[TingBoy]

whats up guys im new!!:angel:

can someone point me to the right direction? i would like some Info on modding HRAP2 and building joysticks. much appreciated

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=102216

This thread will help with modding an HRAP2. You should look around the forums. There's plenty of threads that'll help you out.

[GoPodular.com]

Someone 'necroposted'? :confused:

What is that?

Bringing an old (dead) thread back to life.

[Dencore]

Is it a lot cheaper to build your own instead of buying your own?

[TingBoy]

IIRC, I believe it is only cheaper IF you have experience with such things, otherwise you'll be wasting a lot more money with errors and such. Don't take my word for it though. Wait for an experienced builder to post a reply =P

[TMO Gaming]

Geez, where did this thread come from?

I've never seen it before. Now I have 137 pages to go thru?! ...Damn you.

In regards to the question above, I have a quote from Toodles some where that answers this question rather well......

"Don't. Just don't. If you try to build one, it'll suck, you'll want to build another, you'll be buying all these tools, that one sucked too so you make another and another getting a little better each time but never actually making you happy and you've spent over $1k before you know what happened.

Figure out what you want, and have someone else make it. You will NOT be able to build cheaper than you can buy on your first stick and get anything near as good." -Toodles

I thought that was funny. :u: Thats my life :looney:

[akuma001]

Geez, where did this thread come from?

I've never seen it before. Now I have 137 pages to go thru?! ...Damn you.

In regards to the question above, I have a quote from Toodles some where that answers this question rather well......

"Don't. Just don't. If you try to build one, it'll suck, you'll want to build another, you'll be buying all these tools, that one sucked too so you make another and another getting a little better each time but never actually making you happy and you've spent over $1k before you know what happened.

Figure out what you want, and have someone else make it. You will NOT be able to build cheaper than you can buy on your first stick and get anything near as good." -Toodles

I thought that was funny. :u: Thats my life :looney:

seriously.

the first time i modded a stick was a tekken 5 anniversary.

$50 stick
$40 sanwa parts
$10 soldering iron
$5 wire
$3 solder
$3 desoldering braid
$40 dremel

i spent over $160 not including tax to basically make a $110 shipped hrap that i could have just added $20 worth of buttons to and it would be solid. it took me 2 days to do my first one and the wiring would fall apart after heavy play and i'd have to resolder it all back up just for it to fall apart again.

i did get better at modding stuff after doing a few more sticks but if i just wanted one modded stick and was on a budget i'd definitely have someone else build it for me who can build it right the way i want it.

i can't even think of how much it would have cost if i made my own case and had to buy the right cutting tools, drill, drill bits, paint, etc., not to mention the nightmare it can be to cut plexi/lexan or have the correct angles in cutting wood or mounting depths to mount sticks correctly. pain in the ass i tell you.

thats why i give props to all those stick builders who charge so little for something that takes so much time and knowledge to do.

just think about how long it takes to cut up wood and paint it the way alot of builders are doing. takes like a week to do just paint with all the sanding and layering. for $200 or whatever they're being charged for they're making way less than minimum wage with all the time that is put into one stick after cost of just the materials.

[James123]

im making my first stick and it has only cost me like 100 and i have all of the stuff i need it just needs to be assembled

$40 pcb
$50 happ stick and buttons
$5 wires
$0 plastic( it was lying at my work unused in the back)

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/6346/picture002fh7.jpg
this is my stick so far

im not gunna post the pic as an img ITS HUGE!

[aznchristmas]

If you really want to make your own, do a TON of research first. You'll still end up paying over.

Hey, what's a good saw to use to cut MDF? Does anybody use anything besides circular saws and table saws? Any cheap solutions?

[James123]

i would say table saw and if you dont have one at your house or one you can use go to a machine shop pay for like 2 hours and do all the work there

[Ryth]

I really don't want to search through 137 pages to find this, but I'm looking for the guy who was using an arcade style keyboard. I want to find him and ask him how to make it or if I could purchase it because my friend can only play on keyboard.

[Shodokan123]

you get keyboard keys, mount them in the wood, and solder the correct wires to the contacts.

[Ryth]

you get keyboard keys, mount them in the wood, and solder the correct wires to the contacts.

Actually, Shodokan, I found the pictures I was looking for. Thanks to my Dallas thread and their sarcasm, one of them posted a link to it. :

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wuziq/120053453/in/set-72057594093937602/

I would recommend someone make it because we know absolutely nothing about soldering. What do you think the price would be? I can get him to buy it, just gotta know how much. : )

[UltraDavid]

For a saw, I use a regular, handheld woodsaw (cost me maybe $15) and a non-machine miter saw my dad happened to have, probably cost him $50-100 when he got it. If you have a steady hand, all you really need is a woodsaw and a table.

[speedsterharry]

Suggestion for the original thread:

Make a list of all PS2 PCBs that you can hack, are single-sided, with a common ground, etc ... in short a list where you know in advance what you're going to find before buying/finding a 2nd hand pad. I think this would reduce traffic somewhat (at least the more basic, common questions).

A lot of this is already on the forums but I've spent 1.5 hour just to know what kinds of official Sony PCBs are hackable (the M, H, A variants can be hacked solderless).

[Starcade RIP]

There is already a padhacking thread.

This thread should probably be locked anyway. There is an official custom sticks thread II out. Check the stickies.

[speedsterharry]

Sorry, wrong thread, I meant to post that message on the padhacking thread but kinda messed up windows. My point was to have a clean way to know which pads to look for when you're in a custom stick creation mood (especially important for 5-pin connector type sticks, which need directions to have a common ground) instead of the information scattered across 36 pages of posts. Maybe I'll do it after all, even if all the info is far from complete ...

[shoo]

maybe a new pad hacking thread is in need

any volunteers?

also maybe a complete guide to painting thread

The I love my custom stick part 2?!

The I love my modded stick?!

theres also a soldering thread and hardwood thread scattered



I'll work on this

[Koop]

i honestly dont know where to post this... looking for the BEST x360 stick maker out here... need one cause my old stick is giving out an my boy (whom I normally run to an cry) is WAAAAAY outta town now... who should i bug... i mean pay to help make a FRESH x360 stick.. shoo... somebody help!!!

Koop

[TingBoy]

i honestly dont know where to post this... looking for the BEST x360 stick maker out here... need one cause my old stick is giving out an my boy (whom I normally run to an cry) is WAAAAAY outta town now... who should i bug... i mean pay to help make a FRESH x360 stick.. shoo... somebody help!!!

Koop

Check out the stickies in the Trading outlet thread

[RagingVenom]

can someone point me out to a guy who makes sticks and whos active? i've been trying to get one for some time but cant seem to find anyone.

[KabaL]

Check out the stickies in the Trading outlet thread

There you go.

[itsdchlorine]

Hey, I'm new to this whole scene and well, I've looked through a lot of threads on this forum.

I understand that you buy the parts, make the box, and solder the wires to the correct connections.

But then I dont get where you solder the wires if you want to play on your PC. I've seen pics of the wires being connected to Xbox 360 controller, PS2 controller, etc. What do i connect it to be able to use it for the PC. so that its a plug and play?

[Kuenai]

Hey, I've kinda been out of the loop for a while. Can you wire a xbox 360 pcb and PS3 pcb in at the same time, or is there some method in which you can have both in one stick without swapping PCBs?

[TingBoy]

Hey, I've kinda been out of the loop for a while. Can you wire a xbox 360 pcb and PS3 pcb in at the same time, or is there some method in which you can have both in one stick without swapping PCBs?

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=146124&highlight=pcb

This thread should tell you everything you need to know. I think someone has a diagram of a 360 pcb and a ps3 pcb wired up in one of those pages.