The Official Custom Arcade Sticks Thread

[Dreaded Fist]

because the japs use them!

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by Hellfromabove
Hey guys, there is a rumor being spread by a *** named omac1 that is just trying to ruin my rep here on the boards. Please don't believe him. He is just a stupid little 14 year old kid with no purpose. I mean you see the way he didn't give an example or anything. I wanna get this guys banned for life. Hey also if you want a second opinion on how I how I am not what that guy says just ask SNAAAKE. Thanx.

-See Ya!!!
hahahah...niice ! :lol:
who the fuck is this "OMAC1" anyway..anyone you know ?
yeh I delt with Hellfromabove...no rip off.
smooth transction ! :) :cool:

[Sleipnir]

I just like the feel of the ball better. with the ball I rest my hand on top with my fingers going down. With the bat style I grip it sideways with my fingers wrapping it vertically. I find I get better control if I hold it from the top - probably because its more like how I hold my computer mouse.

[ssjbrydon]

can someone give me a quick explanation of how to install a joystick(the actual competition stick). ive tried to put it together outside of the arcade box, but it feels......i dunno not smooth like they are suppose to. i know im doing something right. i had the instructions, lost them, looked on the site and that was no help, can i get a lil help plz?

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by ssjbrydon
can someone give me a quick explanation of how to install a joystick(the actual competition stick). ive tried to put it together outside of the arcade box, but it feels......i dunno not smooth like they are suppose to. i know im doing something right. i had the instructions, lost them, looked on the site and that was no help, can i get a lil help plz?

UMM...how about you click here ! (http://www.happcontrols.com/joysticks/competition_joy_e.htm)

I dont get your question..what "not" smooth ? :confused:

[Dreaded Fist]

brydon you asscrack! jk:p

it shoudl come with a small instruction sheet man. It won't feel totally smooth btw, if u want smooth you should have gotten a super stick.too bad!

[Hellfromabove]

Serious dawg, what was the question. Thanx.

-See Ya!!!

[ilikebeingalive]

I was going to try and read through this thread so I could ask a logical question. But it is 2am in the morning and there are about 1000+ posts. So I'm just being lazy, but I got a few questions.

I started playing on a controller, and switched to a homemade stick my brother build, which had a competition joystick and concave buttons. Then I switched and started using the "green goblin" (agetec dreamcast stick). I can do a lot of things on the regular joystick, but I can do more on a green goblin. The only problem with the green goblin is the stick, and it makes dashing hard, especially in marvel.

So I want to use the japanese style layout and buttons similar to the green goblin and have a perfect 360 stick, and have that kind of arcade stick. Would building the stick be too much of a hassle? Could I pay someone on this site to build the stick for me? I just want a stick to play on, so that I can have the best of both worlds. PM me please if you can help me out.

Sorry, I'm a n00b and this makes no sense. :bluu:

[Dreaded Fist]

So you just want a p360 with japanese buttons and jap buttons layout? It take some work but its not much more work than just a regular stick.

[ssjbrydon]

how can i tighten my joystick? it feels kinda loose.


i managed to get that damn thing together, fought witht he C clip, and now it feels a lil bit more loose than the actual arcade sticks at work. im using an ultimate btw, with the long little pipe, the short one makes the stick too long and it touches the bottom of my board.

[Dreaded Fist]

first of its called an E-clip lol. You can tape the end of the shaft where the actuator goes over and it'll make it a bit tighter.

GO SPURS!

[SNAAAKE]

I think I know what happend here..
you said you have "ultimate" sticks right?
those are already loose to begin with..they usually suck.
comp or supers are better..:)

[SNAAAKE]

ehhhh:confused: :confused: :confused:
anyone sent an IM from this aol screen name today?

"iLIKEbeingALIVE"

I wasnt home...whoever it was yes do have sticks for sale..PM from here or AIM is cool ! :cool: :)

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by SNAAAKE
I think I know what happend here..
you said you have "ultimate" sticks right?
those are already loose to begin with..they usually suck.
comp or supers are better..:)

Some people prefer loose sticks (broken down feel) and they go with ultimates. What you can do is buy the hard spring and replace the spring (normal) you have in the ultimate with the hard spring. As a matter of fact, I bought 2 (one for my ultimate stick, and another for my comp) It makes the ultimate feel more like the comp joystick, and makes the comp stick feel really tight. As Sixtymhz's put it earlier... "a stick that belongs at the Gold's Gym" being so fucking tight and working out you arm/wrist and limiting play to about only 30 minutes. Oh yeah... Supers are alright too if you don't mind leaf switches and shit when it comes down to maintenance.
************************************************** **
Note: This is common sense, but... if your muscles in your arm feel kinda sore and worked out from playing, then you need to take breaks in between play or even modify it so that you won't ever run into these type of problems. Maybe even try another joystick. I'm just throwing this in to protect everyone here who sells sticks and shit. Now a days you can get sued for starring at someone the wrong way (:rolleyes: Sad I know... Same goes for everything else ( buttons, and boards used) In other words, if you're fucking stupid enough to injure yourself using a stick or in the process of making one, then you are to blame and if your parents were aware that you took advice from us, this site, happs or whatever, you were warned and then you got shocked or blew a port in one of your systems, WE ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE!! Thank you.
************************************************** **

I just wanted to add this cuz I had received an email about the wiring/port blowing thing a long time ago and was asking questions about whether or not they can sue the individual who made their stick for property damage or some shit like that cuz the individual wouldn't pay for a new system. The stick was fine and all, but his dreamcast porst were blown and wouldn't recognize any controllers. Whether or not it was the sticks fault is unknown, so for those sellers, I advice that whoever you sell your sticks to, let them know up front that it was tested, and worked on YOUR consoles without any damage or problems whatsoever. If you provide 'warranties' or such let them know also or say sold as is or whatever.

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO


Some people prefer loose sticks (broken down feel) and they go with ultimates. What you can do is buy the hard spring and replace the spring (normal) you have in the ultimate with the hard spring. As a matter of fact, I bought 2 (one for my ultimate stick, and another for my comp) It makes the ultimate feel more like the comp joystick, and makes the comp stick feel really tight. As Sixtymhz's put it earlier... "a stick that belongs at the Gold's Gym" being so fucking tight and working out you arm/wrist and limiting play to about only 30 minutes. Oh yeah... Supers are alright too if you don't mind leaf switches and shit when it comes down to maintenance.
************************************************** **
Note: This is common sense, but... if your muscles in your arm feel kinda sore and worked out from playing, then you need to take breaks in between play or even modify it so that you won't ever run into these type of problems. Maybe even try another joystick. I'm just throwing this in to protect everyone here who sells sticks and shit. Now a days you can get sued for starring at someone the wrong way (:rolleyes: Sad I know... Same goes for everything else ( buttons, and boards used) In other words, if you're fucking stupid enough to injure yourself using a stick or in the process of making one, then you are to blame and if your parents were aware that you took advice from us, this site, happs or whatever, you were warned and then you got shocked or blew a port in one of your systems, WE ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE!! Thank you.
************************************************** **

I just wanted to add this cuz I had received an email about the wiring/port blowing thing a long time ago and was asking questions about whether or not they can sue the individual who made their stick for property damage or some shit like that cuz the individual wouldn't pay for a new system. The stick was fine and all, but his dreamcast porst were blown and wouldn't recognize any controllers. Whether or not it was the sticks fault is unknown, so for those sellers, I advice that whoever you sell your sticks to, let them know up front that it was tested, and worked on YOUR consoles without any damage or problems whatsoever. If you provide 'warranties' or such let them know also or say sold as is or whatever.
no..you blow out the ports when you connect your joystick while the system is on..thats common sense you dont plug anything while dreamcast is on(same for other consoles).
anyone who does...thats :lame: :lol:
btw...the control ports are easyly fixable...just have to replace the blown fuse. :)

[Ma junior.]

i need help with fixing my dreamcast controller port because its burnt out, could i use a 10omh resistor to replace t he 5omh one will that harm my system in anyway if i did that? please help

[Tech Gaming]

Originally posted by Ma junior.
i need help with fixing my dreamcast controller port because its burnt out, could i use a 10omh resistor to replace t he 5omh one will that harm my system in anyway if i did that? please help

Sure you can. What caused your port to be burnt out in the first place? If it's your modified controller, then you don't want to plug that shit back in again.

[Ma junior.]

yeah it was my friend's modiefied controller, so i will replace it with a 10omh then :D thanks

[Tech Gaming]

Can anyone post some pictures to the insides of either X-Arcade or MAS stick? I'd like to see the designs beneath the box before I actually commit the $$$ to buy one. Or if anyone ever hacked them and have pictures/tutorial to show.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by SNAAAKE

no..you blow out the ports when you connect your joystick while the system is on..thats common sense you dont plug anything while dreamcast is on(same for other consoles).
anyone who does...thats :lame: :lol:
btw...the control ports are easyly fixable...just have to replace the blown fuse. :)

:D Sorry about that, yeah I know, but they pretty well know what I meant. I've never had that problem now have ever had to replace fuse for my DC ports. Anyway... is there a life to the fuse in my existing DC, like old age or some shit? I hear that these type of thing like ports blowing are 'common' cuz almost everyone I know had problems with this for some odd reason. Are they not taking care of their systems properly or what? Well, thanks for the correction SNAAAKE.

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by Tech Gaming
Can anyone post some pictures to the insides of either X-Arcade or MAS stick? I'd like to see the designs beneath the box before I actually commit the $$$ to buy one. Or if anyone ever hacked them and have pictures/tutorial to show.
what the heck :confused:
how do you hack mas systems joysticks ? ? ? :confused:
its all good..under,side,front,back,top :D
Only problem is it cost $120. :lame:
I sell the same style joystick for $70.
if you are seriouslly interested then PM me and we can work out a deal ! :)

I have enough parts to build atleast 10 joysticks...I got 3 happs joysticks now and rest is x-arcade sticks. :cool:

[Tech Gaming]

Originally posted by SNAAAKE

what the heck :confused:
how do you hack mas systems joysticks ? ? ? :confused:
its all good..under,side,front,back,top :D
Only problem is it cost $120. :lame:
I sell the same style joystick for $70.
if you are seriouslly interested then PM me and we can work out a deal ! :)

I have enough parts to build atleast 10 joysticks...I got 3 happs joysticks now and rest is x-arcade sticks. :cool:

Sorry for the confusion. I'm just interested to see how the X-arcade sticks are wired(maybe MAS too) ... like how everything is hooked up inside the box. I'm actually quite an expert like yourself at hacking controller pads and building joystick units. I just want to verify my theory without having to spend 120 bucks buying the damn thing.

[donaldducktm]

MY PLAIN ASS STICK...

it's not done cuhz i haven't soldered yet. :mad:

[donaldducktm]

here...i know it's blurry cuhz i have a dull ass camera. could someone tell me if i'm doing something wrong?

[SNAAAKE]

awwww..duck.
looks good ! :)

[magnus]

I need help working with the DC pad.

I opened up to see what was inside, and now i can't put it back togther. So, i figured that if you fine gentalmen could help me out, maybe i could turn it into a stick.

I reviewed the link in the first page. Here it is:

http://mc.pp.se/dc/controller.html

I don't understand the info. If someone could explain it to me as well as explain the sodering points, that would be greatley appreciated.

thanks

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by donaldducktm
here...i know it's blurry cuhz i have a dull ass camera. could someone tell me if i'm doing something wrong?

Looks good, where's the pcb though? :lol: Are the red wires the ground and white wire NO's?

[Dreaded Fist]

the Mas box is built very well, for the side boards they use 3/4" wood and the face, front, and back is 5/8" thick. The bottom piece is just thin board. they use 3/4" square sticks of wood inside each corners and attach the boards thru metal brads from the inside, so the finish is very smooth. As for as soldering is concern, its very clean. But hard to modify because for the ground they use a wire w/o any plactic insulation covering and the wire stretch tight across all points so if you want to bend the microswitch to take it out you have to desolder the ground. They use really thin wire.

[Hellfromabove]

I agree w/ DF. I have a MAS and have taken that bitch apart before. If I don't get rid of it I am just gonna take out the fuckin' PCB and stick (cause those are the only good things on the fuckin' stick) and use them for parts. Thanx.

-See Ya!!!

P.S.: Oh yeah, the box for it kicks ass :D . Thanx.

-See Ya!!!

[Dreaded Fist]

hey does anyone have or know the url to an mvc2 pic of storm and magneto? I found a site with all characters pick except for storm and mag.

[ssjbrydon]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
hey does anyone have or know the url to an mvc2 pic of storm and magneto? I found a site with all characters pick except for storm and mag.





gamegen.com




btw i made my button layout to wide, as in the buttons are too spaced out. is there any way i can go back and maybe drill my holes a lil bit to the left and just secure the buttons with washer that goes under? will that work? or do i have to fuck with the stupid wood glue?

[Dreaded Fist]

brydon just get a new piece of wood man, for like u nder $5, how can u drill it too wide? what template did u use? the holes should be 1.5 inches apart from the middle and the stick should be right between the middle of the 2 rows and the center of the hole for the stick should be 4 inches from the center of the left most button.

and i kno abotu gamegen.com duh! he doesn't have the mvc2 pic of magnus and storm w/o the move list.

[Hellfromabove]

Yo Brydon just check out that button layout I previously posted. Also to everyone using that layout, I kinda fucked up on the start and select buttons. You guys might want to kinda move them up. Thanx.

-See Ya!!!

[chrism1829]

can someone tell me where i can find custom/art work for my overlay???...thanks

[Dreaded Fist]

chrism you have to make them yourself or get someone to make it and bring the disc to kinko and print there. its $1.98 for a 11x17" print out.and $3 for lamination.

[Bacardi]

wondering if anyone can tell me what to do my mas stick dc port no longer works and my neice stepped on the ps2 outlet and it broke :( can i just replace those cords with ones from a regular dc or ps2 pad? if anyone can help me with this it would truly be appreciated

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by chrism1829
can someone tell me where i can find custom/art work for my overlay???...thanks
You can use mine !
:cool:
http://liquid718718.tripod.com/joystick.html

[chrism1829]

there was a website further back in the forum cept i cant find the number...there was a webpage with tons of pics...and the nearest kinko's is like 2 hours away...i was wondering if someone could have it printed out with my measurments and i will pay for shipping and so on...just curiious to see if someone will do it for me..i have a two player...and a single i am doing this for my single now...i used paper for the two player....but if someone could get the two player layout that would be great to...i used cdvisions two player..

[Hellfromabove]

Previously Posted by chrism1829
i used cdvisions two player

:D hehe I made that one too, LOL. Thanx.

-See Ya!!!

[ssjbrydon]

Originally posted by Hellfromabove
Yo Brydon just check out that button layout I previously posted. Also to everyone using that layout, I kinda fucked up on the start and select buttons. You guys might want to kinda move them up. Thanx.

-See Ya!!!





hey i would have used it...............but my printer is broke........!!!!!!!!!!!!!! anyway i dont want to get a new board cuz i will prolly fuck up even worse. im gonna try drilling the holes a bit wider to the left and hope they stay secured. i only need about a half inch to the left anyway. btw my joystick isnt even centered in the hole......i could only put 3 carriage bolts in becuase of that.....lol such a fuck up i am.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

What I always do is place the printed out layout on my board(s) and place it where it is comfortable for me, then tape the paper to the board. Next, I get something like a knife or pick and where the center points for the holes are on the joystick i.e. where you would drill for the carriage bolts, and the center for the joystick, I would make puncture marks through the paper onto the board, so that when I remove the paper, I'll have precise measurements for the holes when I drill. I can't really explain it better than that, but it works for me. I remove the paper and I'll see the dots/punture on the board and take the drill and drill where I have made those punctures. 95% of the time I get acurate holes that match up when I install my joystick and the joystick hole is also centered. I do the same thing for my buttons, puncture on the cross hairs (poke a damn hole through the paper and like you want to go through the board also~ Breaking it down Barney styel!) Hope this helps.
If you fucked up, like you said you did, nothing will correct that mistake except to make another cp. You can still use that board, but you'll just have to cover those holes with your artwork or whatever. Another thing you can do is use button caps or whatever they're called that happ sells.

[Dreaded Fist]

brydon just follow my measurements, 1.5 inches from the center for the buttons. a new board would just cost like $2 man. If you drill new holes .5 inch to the left it would look really ugly. i mean realllly. like damn.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
brydon just follow my measurements, 1.5 inches from the center for the buttons. a new board would just cost like $2 man. If you drill new holes .5 inch to the left it would look really ugly. i mean realllly. like damn.

Dude, particle board from Lowe's cost only $2.98 for a 24X24. :D

[Bacardi]

Originally posted by Bacardi_J3d1
wondering if anyone can tell me what to do my mas stick dc port no longer works and my neice stepped on the ps2 outlet and it broke :( can i just replace those cords with ones from a regular dc or ps2 pad? if anyone can help me with this it would truly be appreciated


can anyone help me with this?????

[KOF freak]

What is the difference between buttons with a horizontal switch and competition pushbuttons?

I want to make a custom stick for my Dreamcast out of the AGETEC stick i have. I read it can be done without soldering anything. Ok so I plan on buying a competition stick, 1 player button, and 6 buttons. Is there anything else i need to buy? Like, do the wires and stuff come with the buttons and joystick to attach it to the PCB of the AGETEC stick?

I have't started yet so any advice would help. My AIM is ShiningWizard327. thanx in advance

[Hellfromabove]

Hey KOF Freak, there is really no difference with the buttons. Only that the horizontal pbs are concave and the competition buttons are domed. I just recently started to play w/ the comps and find that it is easier to rush down with Mag and slide fingers across. You dont hurt your fingers with these either. I am not saying you hurt them right away but after a while you know they start to burn a little. I suggest that you go with the comps. If you order from Happs main page they are actually cheaper than horizontal pbs also.

Also does anyone know where to get some horizontal pbs and comp buttons in dark blue? I need them badly. If anyone knows please post a site. Thanx.

-See Ya!!!

[Dreaded Fist]

hey happs is having a sale on horizontal pushbuttons for 99c each.

and a question for trackz: How did you solder to the 21 female/male pin connector? did you get a wire harness? or just straight up solder to the little pins.

[Hellfromabove]

Hey Dreaded, what up?! Actually to do the thing with the parallel ports there are actually bare male and female connections you can buy at Radio Shack. They have bare pin ports in the back where you can solder the wires but you might want to be careful that you dont screw up. I screwed up the first time and also it is time consuming. I used these to connect/disconnect from PS2 to DC etc. Thanx.

-See Ya!!!

[Lyte]

p360 question.

I am about to order a MAS stick and I'll mostly play mvc2, I like a spring thats not too loose but not too tight. I'm curious about what springs does MAS sell for the p360, do they only sell soft and hard springs? Or do they also sell medium springs? thanks

[VietKhan]

question:

if you choose to buy microswitches for your circuit board and buttons, is there any need to use solder?

[Hellfromabove]

Hey Lyte yeah they let you choose from light, medium, or hard spring. Also to VietKhan can you rephrase that question. Thanx.

-See Ya!!!

[KOF freak]

I just bought two 8 way position barrier strips and a whole bunch of spade connectors. But I am no sure if I bought the right spade connectors because when i went to Radio Shack there was a few different kinds. I have no idea how to wire anything so I'm starting from scratch. I have a pic of the spade connectors I bought, please tell me if i bought the right ones or not.

I'm trying to make a DC custom stick out of an Agetec stick for DC.

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by VietKhan
question:

if you choose to buy microswitches for your circuit board and buttons, is there any need to use solder?
From mass?
Good luck buying..like $40+shipping just for the interface..no I dont think you need to solder anything.
why dont you buy the x-arcade interface ?

Originally posted by Lyte
p360 question.

I am about to order a MAS stick and I'll mostly play mvc2, I like a spring thats not too loose but not too tight. I'm curious about what springs does MAS sell for the p360, do they only sell soft and hard springs? Or do they also sell medium springs? thanks
NO,aint no medium spring...for best result use either happs super joystick or x-arcade joystick..they have the roundy feeling thats perfect for marvel vs capcom 2.
happs comp and ultimate both suck.competion joystick is better then ultimate though

Originally posted by KOF freak
I just bought two 8 way position barrier strips and a whole bunch of spade connectors. But I am no sure if I bought the right spade connectors because when i went to Radio Shack there was a few different kinds. I have no idea how to wire anything so I'm starting from scratch. I have a pic of the spade connectors I bought, please tell me if i bought the right ones or not.

I'm trying to make a DC custom stick out of an Agetec stick for DC.
WHY on this earth would you want any barrier strip when there no soldering involved? :confused:
Doesnt make sense !

IF you dont wanna solder the wire to your joysticks and buttons micro switch.
IF those are the odds then you buy something called "1.87 quick disconnect".
you can use quick disconnect to wire your joysticks and buttons and splice the wires to your agtec joystick.I only heard that the agtec joystick required no soldering.
No practical experience !

[KOF freak]

WHY on this earth would you want any barrier strip when there no soldering involved?

I talked to Rotendo on AIM and he told me i needed to buy 2 barrier strips and some spade connectors. I told him that I'm just making a custom stick out of an Agetec stick using the the comp. stick and comp. buttons from HAPP.

So i really don't need barrier strips and spade connectors? Why would he tell me to get those then? :confused:

[Rei]

Simple. Using a barrier strip would still require no soldering, but more importantly, it will let you wire the controller to multiple systems, if you decide to go that route in the future.

Basically, using a barrier strip allows for expansion later, while not using it will cause you to be stuck with whatever configuration you end up with when you are finished.

[Dreaded Fist]

Simple. Using a barrier strip would still require no soldering, but more importantly, it will let you wire the controller to multiple systems, if you decide to go that route in the future.

let me ask this even though I've already asked before. Have any of you been successful in doing this??? does it cause any damage or malfunction to your stick/console? This sounds like an alternative to the hassle of using a converter w/o a vmu slot and much more easier than using female and male 25 pin connectors to make multiple adapters. how many controllers can you wire to one set of buttons/stick using the terminal strip method??

[Tech Gaming]

It'll be easier to adapt using the male/female connectors, it'll be just a bit more work getting things hooked up but well worth it if you're switching between gaming systems regularly.

[Hellfromabove]

Yo Dreaded, what up?! The only thing wrong that happens when you wire multiple systems is that you are taking the risk of slowing down the electric command flow. I think it is ok to wire up to 4 systems. It will still be fully functional. I say don't exceed this amount. Otherwise, like I said, the flow of electricity will be slow. What I mean by the slow flow of electricity is when you click a button it will take a while for it to transfer the command to the console or PC. So, like I said, don't exceed more than 4 controllers per stick. Anyone ever tried it with 4? I haven't yet but have heard this is the right amount if you don't wanna slow the flow. Any real info would be great. Oh yeah BTW, I got this info from CD Visions. Thanx.

-See Ya!!!

[Dreaded Fist]

well i guess i should be good, i'm just using it for dc and ps2. btw won't the female/male connector method be worse if u switch system regularly? i mean i will be unlugging and plugging things 4-5 times a day.

[RoboGem]

Just saying hi.

Gogo Joystick builders!:D

[Tech Gaming]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
well i guess i should be good, i'm just using it for dc and ps2. btw won't the female/male connector method be worse if u switch system regularly? i mean i will be unlugging and plugging things 4-5 times a day.

Which method are you comparing that to? if you're using an manufactured adapter, then you just need to hookup to the interface (9pin connector). If you're using all hacked controllers, you can include them all in the box and use barrier strip, but it jacks up the size/weight of box. I usually keep just 1 pcb in the box and switch in/out using the male/female 27pin connector. I like having a thin box that sets in your lap... I try to keep height of box below 3.5 inches. I suppose I could fit 2 controller pcbs in there, but I don't like the extra loose cord dragging around. There are other more complicated methods I haven't mentioned.

Anyone wanna share their "special" method? Maybe X-arcade or MAS will catch on and hijack your idea. Just my 2 cents.

[Dreaded Fist]

x-gaming i'm comparing the terminal strip method to the x-arcade method where you unplug the adapter from the joystick and plug in another one for another system. when you do that repeatly, wont the pins wear out?

and btw. how do you people connect the wire to a female disconnect? I can use a crimping tool to crimp the wire tight but I have these fully insulated female disconnects with the plastic jacket around it so crimping is really hard.

[VietKhan]

i went to the Happs Controls website in order to look for an address to send a money order to. it gave me like 5 different locations, but are they do any of them actually produce and package the product to you?

[VietKhan]

also, if you choose to buy a perfect 360 joystick, is there any other procedures you need to follow in order to properly install it into your arcade controller?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Ahem... BARRIER STRIPPING SOLDERLESS PROJECTS

SNAAAKE: The reasong I told KOF to use barrier strips is becase:

a) The wires from the agetec are to short to directly hook up to the buttons and joystick when using quick disconnects (I have made some solderless agetec sticks and I also have pics of the inside wiring on my site in the photos page)

b) If he wanted to add a PSX/PS2 controller or another system's pcb he can, so that he can have multiple use of his stick if he doesn't use converters.

c) looks a lot neater, and gives your stick a more professional look (IMO)

d) prevents accidental disconnection if someone tripped on your cord, pulling on the pcb and then the wires getting pulled off the microswitches or worst, the pcb itself (in this case, you should use a plastic zip-tie between the board and the pcb cord to help prevent this)

e) Preference. I do all my solderless projects like this, but with soldering jobs, I use wires that run at least 20 inches long for each microswitch and I use quick disconnects at the end to connect to the microswitches.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MULTIPLE WIRING USAGE CONNECTION

You CAN wire more than just 4 different system controllers in your arcade stick if you want to without the worrying about signal lag.
It isn't an internet connection or anything and there SHOULDN'T BE ANY TYPE OF LAG WHATSOEVER unless you have it wired to make it so. There is only 1 (one) signal going out, so where is the lag? I HAVE DONE THIS with my DC/PSX-PS2/PC/SNES/ and GC. That's 5 (five) system compatibility and here is how I did it:

1) build a box large enough to hold all the pcbs
2) this project strongly requires it to be a soldering project! (although you can do solderless, but the wire will not be longe enough-I'll elaborate more and why it's not the way to go)
3) working with your first pcb, to the last system's pcb, you are going to solder wires that are about 10-15 inches long each to every function (buttons, directions) You are not going to be placing all the pcb's on top of each other as there could be a good chance of them shorting out each other is contact is made during use and I'm talking about the fuses and other shit that sticks out the board and touching the other boards componets and shit like that)
4) Now that you have each pcb soldered with long enough wires, run them, neatly along the back, middle, or where ever you are going to place the barrier strips (I recommend the left and right sides. So if that case, all the directions wires will be running to the left (where the joystick is going to be btw) and the buttons wires running to the right (to connect to the barrier strip going to the buttons on the right side of the stick-unless you're left handed, then vice versa)
5) Another thing I forgot to mention, It's highly important that you lable each wire!! That way you won't get confused by all the mess in the box and for easier installation.
6) Okay, starting with (lets say the left barrier strip for the joystick) we are going to gather all 4 or 5 wires that are labled up, twist them together, and crimp them to a spade quick disconnect using a crimper. It's going to be a bit thick to fit into .187 spade terminals, so for this type of project, you want to use a higher size wire gauge i.e. 26 or something size when soldering to the pcbs. (thin wires okay!) After that, then connect that spade terminal to the first screw on the right side of the barrier strip. Next do the same for left, right, and down, then last but not least, the ground for the directions. (if any of the pcbs you're using has only 1 ground. Here is a nice trick: a single daisy chain to go to the other side of the stick to the right barrier strip along with the other ground wires for the buttons!
7) The next step is the same, cept you are going to have all the wires matched up/customized to where you want each button. A little way back on this thead maybe about a page or so I posted a chart for a DC>PSX/PS2 i.e. X=/\ so you are going to have to sit down and figure out what button is what so when you play (system here) it's setup the way you want. To make life easier and for those of you who will mostly use this stick for fighters, label each button starting from the top row, left to right, 1-6 or 7 if using a GC pcb for the Z trigger ( I left out L2/R2 on the PSX/PS2 config-always for my projects) on a sheet of paper. Now go through and write down what buttons from the pcb=what on the stick i.e. /\ (PSX/PS2); Y (DC); X (SNES); Y (PC); B (GC)=2 with that (almost) perfect setting, you'll be able to play most fighters without going into the options to adjust the buttons. FIGURE THE SHIT OUT FIRST YOURSELF WITH EACH SYSTEMS DEFAULT SETTINGS TO GET A MORE ACURATE SELF SETTING FOR YOU STICK! --------- Now that the hard part is done, continue with getting the wires together for that button, twist them together and crimp them to a spade terminal, do the same for the remaining buttons wires.
8) You now should have all the wires crimped and connected to the barrier strips accordingly so it's time to do the single wire crimping and connecting to the microswitches (yay!)
9) You should only have 1 (one) wire from the opposite side of the barrier strips going out to the appropriate microswitch (up, down, left, right, 1-6 or 7 or 8 (if you included L2/R2 and Z buttons) Now for the ground, you should have on wire from each barrier strip going out to the controls and buttons. Those are to be daisy chained, like you would a normal wiring.
10) You're done!! :D Oops, no you're not! You now have to go back in, and use those plastic zip ties to clean up inside your stick and to keep it from getting all tangled up and shit. At the end, it'll look like the underneath of a cars hood!!
11) Use zip-ties for the cords coming out the stick enclusure every 5 or 10 inches or so or if you want to go all out, use electrical tape, and spiral wrap that shit together all the way to the plung in sockets, but not completely ALL the way, cuz some cords will be a different length from the others.
12) It's time for the test run...

[note: you'll want to use the regular or larger size wire for the other side of the barrier strips going to the microswitches. That prevents overheating and all of that shit, plus electric currents to run faster and all that hoopla. Read more about how electricity works at www.howstuffworks.com or other sources about AWG: american wire gauge sizes and shit]

Good luck if any of you want to do such a project, but with converters today, way go through all the trouble? Unless you can't find one to play on a SNES or don't want to build another stick just for that one system.

Dreadedfist: You will not be plugging or unplugging all day if you a) use a converter
b) use barrier strips to connect them both.

[Phobos]

I have a mas stick ps2 and dreamcast and I want to solder a pcb
from a usb control .I going to use a Saitek p150 control .It is a good pcb for this .So I plan on takeing the pcb from the mas stick out and use the wireing to solder the pcb to the right connections.
Any tips ,?

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by KOF freak


I talked to Rotendo on AIM and he told me i needed to buy 2 barrier strips and some spade connectors. I told him that I'm just making a custom stick out of an Agetec stick using the the comp. stick and comp. buttons from HAPP.

So i really don't need barrier strips and spade connectors? Why would he tell me to get those then? :confused:

WHY ! ? :confused:
You need barrier strip because you have 2 ends on the barrier strip and wires from joystick and button goes to 1 end and wires from PCB goes to other end.NOW,only reason you need barrier strip is if you actually change the buttons..say you wanna replace the buttons and sticks so you use barrier strip so you wont pull any solder joint.
as for the agtec joystick wire being too short.
Just cut some $0.99 wire and dont have to go through barrier strip.
and why spade connector:confused: ? ? ?

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist


let me ask this even though I've already asked before. Have any of you been successful in doing this??? does it cause any damage or malfunction to your stick/console? This sounds like an alternative to the hassle of using a converter w/o a vmu slot and much more easier than using female and male 25 pin connectors to make multiple adapters. how many controllers can you wire to one set of buttons/stick using the terminal strip method??

I tried using a printer switch box...lags.
Slow down.works but slow down.
Like I press a button the action works after like atleast 2 second.
This is not theory...practical experience.
BEST way for multi system is using molex connector(m/f).
I dont mind switching..takes only a second and WORKS !

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
x-gaming i'm comparing the terminal strip method to the x-arcade method where you unplug the adapter from the joystick and plug in another one for another system. when you do that repeatly, wont the pins wear out?

Molex connectors never wear out ! :)

Originally posted by RoTeNdO
Ahem... BARRIER STRIPPING SOLDERLESS PROJECTS

SNAAAKE: The reasong I told KOF to use barrier strips is becase:

d) prevents accidental disconnection if someone tripped on your cord, pulling on the pcb and then the wires getting pulled off the microswitches or worst, the pcb itself (in this case, you should use a plastic zip-tie between the board and the pcb cord to help prevent this)

e
This is the one and ONLY reason why you want barrier strip.. :)
other problems can easly be solved...
as for plastic zip tie..yes very very important(I use em everywhere left and right) :)

Originally posted by Phobos
I have a mas stick ps2 and dreamcast and I want to solder a pcb
from a usb control .I going to use a Saitek p150 control .It is a good pcb for this .So I plan on takeing the pcb from the mas stick out and use the wireing to solder the pcb to the right connections.
Any tips ,?
I remember hacking some *saitek* pad but I dont remember which one..
only tip I have is that the one I hacked had 4 seperate ground instead of 1 common ground.
1 ground from direction,second from 4 inputs and 3rd from 2 shoulder buttons.
In case you hack the pad and doesnt work...now you know about the grounding issue ! :)

[Phobos]

It's a P150 pad usb ,(wish I had a pic of pcb):( But I have looked
through the whole theard and wrongcrowd to search for info,but
none I believe it has two grounds one for the joystick and one for the buttons .The pcb is good , lots of copper . I had a quick
question on the dreamcast ports ,Which mine blew yesterday ,
I was using a adapter dc>ps2 ,innovation w/my mass playing
mvc2 when it seem like the two punch buttons got stuck and my
character just keep on dashing ,then my ports blew , do know what went wrong? What resistor do I pull the tiny blue one (f1) or the round one ? thks

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by Phobos
It's a P150 pad usb ,(wish I had a pic of pcb):( But I have looked
through the whole theard and wrongcrowd to search for info,but
none I believe it has two grounds one for the joystick and one for the buttons .The pcb is good , lots of copper . I had a quick
question on the dreamcast ports ,Which mine blew yesterday ,
I was using a adapter dc>ps2 ,innovation w/my mass playing
mvc2 when it seem like the two punch buttons got stuck and my
character just keep on dashing ,then my ports blew , do know what went wrong? What resistor do I pull the tiny blue one (f1) or the round one ? thks
dunno..usually ports blow out when you connect anything while the dc is ON.
I never actually fixed the ports myself so I dont know.Someone else would be able to help you on that.
As far as I could guess on what went wrong,I could be the mass PCB itself started acting funnny !
Converters are usually all good(tried many) so I dont think it had anything to do with the converter..sorry the hear that though..:(

[Phobos]

So I guess I will gut my mass ,so I can use it on my pc for now and when I get my dc working again I will just resolder the mas
pcb back on ......thanks :D

[sevenD_eight]

IMO...

converters work perfectly fine..i've never had a problem w/ any of my systems... i use 3rd party ps1 controllers in all of my sticks and they always come out working perfectly..no slow down, no blown ports, nothing...i use my sticks on ps2/ps1/and my DC...no problems...

i don't know what some of you people do..but just solder to the damn pcb..hook up wires, then buttons..thats it..you have a stick..

i dont understand why people are making it more difficult than it actually is..

to make a stick...

1.get your materials(wood, buttons, wires, etc.)
2.build your box
3.solder your pcb
4.put the pcb into the box and connect the wires
5.start playing

5 steps...no extra wires, no barrier strips, make a stick in a few days and use it..maybe get a converter..

simplify things..a lot less will/can go wrong...

i didnt know a thing about building a joystick...but i came to the thread and found everything i need.i've built like 6 sticks and nothing has ever gone wrong...everything is here..what, you want it spoon fed?:lame:
we're just building joysticks people, not nuclear warheads..peace

heres my latest...

[sevenD_eight]

btw..i'm not that good at it yet, but i would be glad to make graphics for a joystick if you like..all of my sticks graphics have been custom..and i never make 2 of the same stick..you can let me know what you want it to be...

i'll make graphics for anyone so long as they give me some time to do it..i'm offering if anyone is interested.pm me.thanks

[KOF freak]

I'm sorry yall but now I'm getting a little more confused. People are telling me now that i DON'T need spade connectors and barrier strips. I'm just confused because Rotendo said i needed those things. My situation is: I have an Agetec Dreamcast stick. I want to replace the buttons and sticks with the Competition stick and buttons from HAPP. And ofcourse I'm going to build a wooden housing for it. I'm going to use the PCB of the Agetec stick. I just want to know for sure that if I need spade connectors or barrier strips. Because if not, i'll just return them since I'm kinda broke.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by KOF freak
I'm sorry yall but now I'm getting a little more confused. People are telling me now that i DON'T need spade connectors and barrier strips. I'm just confused because Rotendo said i needed those things. My situation is: I have an Agetec Dreamcast stick. I want to replace the buttons and sticks with the Competition stick and buttons from HAPP. And ofcourse I'm going to build a wooden housing for it. I'm going to use the PCB of the Agetec stick. I just want to know for sure that if I need spade connectors or barrier strips. Because if not, i'll just return them since I'm kinda broke.

Look, are barrier strips really necessary? Well, no. You can use those double connect tubes or whatever instead of a barrier strip. Sort of like an extension. I have a pic where I did that too on my photos page. Whatever is easier for you.

Spade connectors hold on the screws on the barrier strip better than just screwing down wires on them.

[Running Uppercut]

Originally posted by sevenD_eight
btw..i'm not that good at it yet, but i would be glad to make graphics for a joystick if you like..all of my sticks graphics have been custom..and i never make 2 of the same stick..you can let me know what you want it to be...

i'll make graphics for anyone so long as they give me some time to do it..i'm offering if anyone is interested.pm me.thanks

I want a stick:(

[sevenD_eight]

Originally posted by KOF freak
I'm sorry yall but now I'm getting a little more confused. People are telling me now that i DON'T need spade connectors and barrier strips. I'm just confused because Rotendo said i needed those things. My situation is: I have an Agetec Dreamcast stick. I want to replace the buttons and sticks with the Competition stick and buttons from HAPP. And ofcourse I'm going to build a wooden housing for it. I'm going to use the PCB of the Agetec stick. I just want to know for sure that if I need spade connectors or barrier strips. Because if not, i'll just return them since I'm kinda broke.

you can get by without it..if you're tight on money i would return it and spend it on some other more important stuff...you need female quick disconnects and some butt connectors like rotendo just said...

using barrieier/terminal strips just makes things cleaner and easier to pull out once your stick is done..but i mean, are you planning on taking your stick apart in the future?its up to you..

Originally posted by RunningUppercut


I want a stick:(

btw.thanks for the stick and buttons...and dont worry, you're definately coming up on the list..let me just finish a few more...what kind of graphics were you looking for? i can kinda get started on that...i'm not that great, so bear w/ me..i still use MSpaint..:lol:

[Dreaded Fist]

hmm I'm getting 2 different response here. Rotendo said multi system via barrier strips is ok, no lag. whereas snake said that it will lag.


on another subject. does anyone own a 1st generation ps2 here? version 1. Do you know what 3rd party psx pad does not work with the earlier versions of ps2? A list would be very nice.

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
hmm I'm getting 2 different response here. Rotendo said multi system via barrier strips is ok, no lag. whereas snake said that it will lag.

Okay Rotndo,so you are saying you can wire all the system all together and it will work? :confused:
I never said it would lag using any barrier strip..it wont even work to begin with!
Barrier strip is nothing different then splicing the wires from psx and DC PCB then hook them up to the joysticks and buttons...
I am confirming it wont work..it works perfectly as long as you have your dc ON all the time..so if you wanna play ps2 then you gotta leave your dc on as well.
Now I tried swich box too..wired everything correctly and there is lag there.
AGAIN,barrier stirip has *nothing* to do with having multi interface..

Clear ? :)

Only reasonable way I know for multi system is using M/F molex connector and swith manually..everyone I know uses molex connector ! :)

BTW,I later found out that my swich box might have been faulty..how?
Because I open the box the other day and I found a little PCB inside..now my guess would be that the swich box was only switching ground instead of switcing *ALL* the inputs.
Thats just guessing...in other words the switch box wasnt a *true switch box*.
Now I have a vga switch box as well(for monitor purpose).
I opened that one the other day and appers to be all clean and switchs every single input.
NOW my guess is that if I use a true vga switch box then things might work 100%.
but I am too lazy to go through the hassle again...anyone else tried any other switch box?
or ANY kind of switch box :confused: ?
I might just try again to find out...:evil:

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

I have a first gen PS2. PS Arcade, the new MadCatz pads work, those cheap $4 controllers from Wal-Mart, umm a Pelican's Shock Pro2, MadCatz Dual Pro 2, and some more but I can't think of them right now.

I can use my PS Arcade/Agetec/PC Wingman action pad without any lag and without having it connected to my DC while it's on.

Don't know why, or why some people say it doesn't work for them or won't work for them.

[Hellfromabove]

Yo SNAAAKE, check out CD_Vision's site. He says you can use Barrier Strips or something that will make it so your stick can be connected to multiple pcbs at the same time. Thanx.

-See Ya!!!

[sevenD_eight]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist

on another subject. does anyone own a 1st generation ps2 here? version 1. Do you know what 3rd party psx pad does not work with the earlier versions of ps2? A list would be very nice. [/B]

whats your question?can you rephrase it?

do you want a list of what 3rd party controller work? or don't work?

b/c i have a first gen ps2 and i use those 4.99 best buy/walmart/k mart controllers all the time and dont have problems..

[Running Uppercut]

Originally posted by sevenD_eight


btw.thanks for the stick and buttons...and dont worry, you're definately coming up on the list..let me just finish a few more...what kind of graphics were you looking for? i can kinda get started on that...i'm not that great, so bear w/ me..i still use MSpaint..:lol:

K, sounds great. I want GG XX art. Maybe I will have one of the IMM taggers make me a splash:)

[Dreaded Fist]

seven: sorry about that, i mean i need a list of pad that does work. however if you have used a pad that doesn't work tell me also so i can stay away from it. Are the wal-mart/k-mart/best buy pads that you used psx or ps2 pads? The mad catz psx pad with the turbo and slo-mo does not work on my friend's 1st gen ps2. His was the first batch however.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
seven: sorry about that, i mean i need a list of pad that does work. however if you have used a pad that doesn't work tell me also so i can stay away from it. Are the wal-mart/k-mart/best buy pads that you used psx or ps2 pads? The mad catz psx pad with the turbo and slo-mo does not work on my friend's 1st gen ps2. His was the first batch however.

I gave a fucking list! :eek: :D It's all good though.

The new MadCatz Dual Force 2 PRo (I never use the macro/digital/turbo/slow mo shit that are on 3rd party controllers on any of m sticks)
PS Arcade by Interact
Retro Shock 2 by Pelican
Performance pads
those cheap $4.99 ones found at Wal-Mart/K-Mart, Radio Shack, other dept. stores.

All work 100% with first gen PS2 systems (all tested on my first gen PS2 - 1 out of first 500,000 US systems back in 2000) Hope this helps.

[Dreaded Fist]

Rotendo I kno lol. My bad. Seven D_ Eight asked so I just responded. Radio Shack eh? Maybe I can go to the local radio shack here and buy an iron and a ps2 pad.

[CriticalHit!]

I'm trying to get an arcade stick for my XBox to
play some CvS2 online. I just wanted to see if
someone here can help guide me to getting a
reliable arcade stick. I did a bit of research and
here's what I've found to be some of the better
choices (from hardest to easiest, coincidentally
longest to shortest):

===============================
Reflex Hack: $80+

I read somewhere that the Reflex arcade stick
for the XBox is easy to convert into a custom stick.
But is it as easy as it sounds? I've had some
experience in wood-working, but I don't have
any experience in wiring or soldering. I know
that soldering isn't necessary, but would it be
more reliable to solder?

In terms of prices, I'm guessing a custom made
stick will be cheaper than buying a Mas. Estimated
costs (some prices taken from this site (http://members.cox.net/joysticks/)):

Reflex stick: $25
Competition buttons: $17
Competition stick: $13
Quick Disconnects: $3
Barrier Strips: $?
Wood: $15
Brads: $2
Hinges: $2

Though I'm pretty sure that I can take some materials
like wood and brads from my school. So that would help
cut the costs down. Speaking of cutting things down, is
5" the lowest possible height for the base of the arcade
stick? I've played on a friend's Mas and it feels rather
bulky... and it's pretty difficult to play a game when this
thing is cutting off the circulation to your legs (I don't
have a table to set it on in my room).

Is it possible to transfer the Reflex's guts into another
arcade stick (such as a Saturn ASCII) instead of building
a new base and controls?

Anyways, was there anyone here that was in a similar
situation like mine and built their own arcade stick?
Were there any problems that you ran into while
building it? Or did you just go for broke and got a Mas?

======================================
Mas Pro Stick: $95(?)+

Mas seems like the simplest way to go. Just call them
up and order. But I've heard that just trying to get in
contact with them isn't very easy. I also heard that it
takes them MONTHS to ship it out. I'm not sure if I can
wait that long. At the order page (here (http://www.massystems.com/Order.html)) the price for a
PS2 stick is $94.95, but the Pro Stick page (here (http://www.massystems.com/ProStick.html)) lists the
price as $119.90. Which is the actual price? And is there an
extra fee for the XBox adapter? What's the average
time for Mas to build and ship out an arcade stick?
How much does it cost to ship out this monstrosity?

Does anyone know if it's possible for me to send my
payment through Paypal? I've noticed that Mas sells
their arcade sticks on eBay every once in a while and
I thought it would be easier and safer to use Paypal
instead of a credit card.

====================================
PS2 Stick + Dreambox Adapter: $85+

Looks like a the cheapest and easiest way to go (next
to just buying an XBox stick, of course). There are a lot
of arcade sticks available for the PS2, so choosing one
is the only real problem. I've had my eye on Hori's
Soul Calibur II stick since I've started researching this.
(It would be a lot easier for me if Hori just released an
XBox version of the SCII stick, but it looks like they won't
be doing that because of poor sales of the XBox version
of SCII. Such is my life... :bluu: )

====================================
XBox Arcade Stick: $70+

Not many choices here, but it's the simplest way to go.
I've only found a couple of sticks that seem to be worth
looking into:

Hori Fighting Stick EX (http://www.ncsx.org/2003/ncs051203/fex.htm)
Interact Shadowblade (http://www.gamesoft.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/817?osCsid=ce1ab3fe56bc7e5dbaa2bb0fcd6df59d)

Though I've heard negative things about the Shadowblade
so it's pretty much down to the Hori stick.

=====================================

I guess an alternate choice for a custom stick is to have
one built for you... but it's really hard to trust someone
to do it for you when he lives in another city, and not
be able to see how your stick is progressing. I've been
in contact with a seller on eBay (here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3026808837&category=21188)) and it seems that
the guy builds custom sticks from a PS Dual Shock pcb.
So far, my total from him would be $142.97 with Competition
stick and (10)buttons, the adapter, and the shipping. The
custom background is a nice touch, too (according to him,
you can change it later if you wanted).

Your thoughts, comments, and/or suggestions?

*Edit: Fixed links @_@;;*

[sevenD_eight]

mas is an okay choice but you forgot to add the cost of shipping and adaptors.. thats an extra $50+ for just shipping & 1 adaptor..

nothing beats the satisfaction of building your own stick.. you can make it exactly how you want..i would say go this route but my opinion is biased:D

those 2 sticks are pretty much the closest thing you're gunna get to a real arcade feel..nothing else on out on the market comes close..everything else is made of plastic/metal...i dont have a soul ccaliber stick or a red octane...but they dont have that arcade feel you might be looking for...it depends on how much you want to spend and debating whether to save money, but not time building a stick..or shelling out 100+ for a mas, custom, x arcade stick..d

the whole reason i started building sticks is because i wasn't happy with anything on the market and i didnt feel that anything out there was worth the money...

some people are happy w/ either of the red octanes. IMO, custom all the way. sticks w/ out happ components are trash...

hope this helped you out a little.

[kobokushi.]

GOD no. Do NOT get the $30 redoctane. It's crap, even BEFORE it falls apart. Worthless.

[desistyle3]

got a soul calibur 2 japanese stick...

i was thinking of buying a happ competition stick and i was wondering if it would be possible to replace the japanese stick?
would i need to resolder anything? couldnt i just replace the actual stick portion or would i have to rewire things....


also...with my jap stick..ive been having some trouble getting used to it. I cant perform qcf x 2 motions well at all..however i only have noticed this in cvs2. I play ggxx and alpha 3 and the motions work just fine. Is the motion requirement more strict in cvs2 because i dont understand why i can do moves fine in ggxx and alpha 3 but not cvs2....

[xemred]

Hey I'm thinking of buying the Red Octane stick and switching the controlls to happs. Anybody done this before or have any info on the pcb, does it have quick disconnects? Any info would be helpful

[Dreaded Fist]

or critical hit get a stick from me for $80 with plexiglass top.

btw my friend's MAS ran into some problems that I think some of you guys might be able to solve.

(side note: Does anyone know why Mas wire the directions that way? they daisy chain(or use one wire) the NO point and wire the action points to the COM point on the cherry switch. How can do that and it still work???)

back to the MAS stick. The problem is all of a sudden it just stop working on dc via my friends converter(his MAS is a ps2) and it won't work on ps2 either. BUT...it did work on MY dc with MY converter. Any ideas on why this is?


people who work at Gamestop are a buncha punks man. I went there today to get a psx pad and i ask the guy if it'll work with a 1st generation ps2 and he keep telling me that it was a psx pad and that I should get a ps2 pad and then his co-worker ask what was going on then he told him " umm he want to get a playstation controller that MIIIGHT work on a ps2 instead of a ps2 controller that WILL DEFINITELY work on a ps2" i was like wtf???

[Bacardi]

my mas board is fried i was thinking about hacking a dc pad an putting in there is this possible? and also can anyone help me on this?

[CriticalHit!]

Originally posted by sevenD_eight
mas is an okay choice but you forgot to add the cost of shipping and adaptors.. thats an extra $50+ for just shipping & 1 adaptor..

nothing beats the satisfaction of building your own stick.. you can make it exactly how you want..i would say go this route but my opinion is biased:D

those 2 sticks are pretty much the closest thing you're gunna get to a real arcade feel..nothing else on out on the market comes close..everything else is made of plastic/metal...i dont have a soul ccaliber stick or a red octane...but they dont have that arcade feel you might be looking for...it depends on how much you want to spend and debating whether to save money, but not time building a stick..or shelling out 100+ for a mas, custom, x arcade stick..d

the whole reason i started building sticks is because i wasn't happy with anything on the market and i didnt feel that anything out there was worth the money...

some people are happy w/ either of the red octanes. IMO, custom all the way. sticks w/ out happ components are trash...

hope this helped you out a little.

So a Mas is more like $145 with the shipping and
the XBox adapter? I'm not really looking for the
real arcade feel, i just need one that's responsive
and durable. I'd love to use my Saturn ASCII, but
they don't have an adapter for the SS that'll work
with the communicator yet.

I'd love to build my own, but I would need something
like a "Building Arcade Sticks For Dummies" book or
something. I didn't know what a pcb was until the
other day... :sweat:

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
or critical hit get a stick from me for $80 with plexiglass top.

Okay, a few questions about it first (more like a lot):

Is it already built and I buy it off you?
If it is, details/specs please! :D

If not:
For what system can you build it?
Is 5" the smallest height you can build the base?
Is it possible to alter button layout?
How much would it be for a competition stick and (10)buttons?
How much is my total with shipping?
How long will it take to build and ship out?


Love your avatar, btw...

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by CriticalHit!



If not:
For what system can you build it?
Is 5" the smallest height you can build the base?
Is it possible to alter button layout?
How much would it be for a competition stick and (10)buttons?
How much is my total with shipping?
How long will it take to build and ship out?


Love your avatar, btw...
Well,there always me ! :D

I could build for any system.
5" works great
you can alter button layout(draw it for me)
I have ultimate sticks and regular buttons.
I sell for $70+$20 shipping=$90 total with shipping.thats for PSX but will be more for other systems.
takes about 3..5 days to finish and complete a nice looking...can be done sooner(like 2 days).

Thats how I do it !

[Dreaded Fist]

Hey Hey!!! quit taking my customer man. but Critical Hit if you need a stick fast i think you should just let Snake hook you up because I'm currently making a stick. I make Mas Clones or whatever box you want and they take at least 3 days but I won't be able to start until like the end of this week. and for competition stick I can make the base smaller than that, maybe half an inch to an inch smaller.

So yeah Snake seems like the man for you.

[CriticalHit!]

Originally posted by SNAAAKE

Well,there always me ! :D

I could build for any system.
5" works great
you can alter button layout(draw it for me)
I have ultimate sticks and regular buttons.
I sell for $70+$20 shipping=$90 total with shipping.thats for PSX but will be more for other systems.
takes about 3..5 days to finish and complete a nice looking...can be done sooner(like 2 days).

Thats how I do it !

Whoops, I meant competition buttons (convex/japanese
whatever you want to call them)... Since you and Dreaded
Fist can both make one, I suppose I'll just post the specs
I want and see if either of you can still build it.

I basically need an Xbox arcade stick that has/is:
- Live communicator compatible
- competition stick (medium spring if possible)
- 10 competition buttons
- instead of the standard 10-button layout, I'd like
to have a layout similar to the Saturn ASCII stick (click here (http://www.evg2000.com/graphics/saturn/hardware/saturnstick.jpg)).
It doesn't have to perfectly match the layout of the ASCII,
but I wanted each of the extra two buttons on the sides.
- low profile (less than the standard 5") if possible
- option to change background image later

What material will you be using for the base of the stick?
How much do these suckers weigh when it's done?
Do any of you guys take Paypal?

[Phobos]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
[Bbtw my friend's MAS ran into some problems that I think some of you guys might be able to solve.

(side note: Does anyone know why Mas wire the directions that way? they daisy chain(or use one wire) the NO point and wire the action points to the COM point on the cherry switch. How can do that and it still work???)

back to the MAS stick. The problem is all of a sudden it just stop working on dc via my friends converter(his MAS is a ps2) and it won't work on ps2 either. BUT...it did work on MY dc with MY converter. Any ideas on why this is?]

My mas just ran into some problems ,just like your friends
I use a ps2 & innovation adapter 3in1 I was playing mvc2 at the
time when my character would not stop dashing . Then my ports
blew :mad: and my adapter went dead . I fixed everything :D thanks to you guys and the info here ,

[SNAAAKE]

I dont think I am the one who will do this for you because I dont own x-box so no way of testing..:bluu:
So someone else would help you on this.I will always do for ps2 or dreamcast though. :)
Dreaded would go for x-box(right?)...:cool:
besides I got like atleast 3 other sticks to finish by this week:confused:

[Dreaded Fist]

Nope, no xbox for me lol. Since I don't have one. I dont wanna make it and have it run into problems and stuff. If you lived closer to me though Critical Hit, it would be possible cus then you can just bring it over if something happens.

Phobos: you fixed it? how?

[Bacardi]

Originally posted by Bacardi_J3d1
my mas board is fried i was thinking about hacking a dc pad an putting in there is this possible? and also can anyone help me on this?

hello can i get some help with this can i hack a dc pad and put it in the mas stick since the port blew on the original board that was in the stick?

[Dreaded Fist]

Bacardi yup! it should work fine, just take the whole Mas Board out and replace it with the pcb of a DC controller.

[Bacardi]

but um their is just one problem is i dont know how to do it if someone can help[ me out it would be appreciated dreded fist just hit me up onn aim subz3r0

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by Bacardi_J3d1
but um their is just one problem is i dont know how to do it if someone can help[ me out it would be appreciated dreded fist just hit me up onn aim subz3r0
its not something you just do without knowing anything..BUT here is a very reasonable guide that will help you.

http://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/panel.html

study the guide..easy :)
OR is it:confused: ?

[CriticalHit!]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
Nope, no xbox for me lol. Since I don't have one. I dont wanna make it and have it run into problems and stuff. If you lived closer to me though Critical Hit, it would be possible cus then you can just bring it over if something happens.

Phobos: you fixed it? how?

I knew it. Curse my luck. :bluu:

Let's see... how'bout I buy just the base, stick
and buttons from you guys? I'll see if I can hack
a Reflex myself (or hopefully find a friend who
can do it for me). Will you still be able to build
the base with the layout that I wanted?

[Vigorous]

For some reason, I have a problem with my joystick now.

When I try and move right, it'll input two times; which makes it dash. This happens 1/4 times tested.
Did the following, but still acts screwy:
- I was thinking maybe its the microswitch, so I switched it out with one of the buttons I dont use: nope
- I wiggled and reattached the quick disconnect wires several times: nope
- Checked the wiring, to make sure its not touching any other wiring: nope
- Unsoldered the right point on the pad, and resoldered it back: nope

The only thing left is making a brand new wire for the Right Direction, and re-soldering to the pad.

Any other suggestions?

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by CriticalHit!


I knew it. Curse my luck. :bluu:

Let's see... how'bout I buy just the base, stick
and buttons from you guys? I'll see if I can hack
a Reflex myself (or hopefully find a friend who
can do it for me). Will you still be able to build
the base with the layout that I wanted?
Yeah I can probley do it..I only got comp,ultimate and x-arcade joystick and regular happs buttons(the ones cost $2 each).

Now I can do the base with that weird layout...:)

[magnus]

i was wondering if anyone has mad a stick out of the original DC controler? I reviewed the link on the front page, put i don't understand it. If anyone could help me out, i would greatley appreciate it! thanks!

[Orochi_Shoto]

Well, I'm going to be done with all 4 sticks soon, and I started checking out the look of things by mounting the buttons and stick in the board. I was satisfied with the buttons, there are in a nice and pretty accurate formation, but the competition stick sits too low. I'm currently mounting all this to 3/4 inch thick lumber and was wondering if anyone has any tips for how to get the stick to stick out higher. I was thinking about using 1/2 inch thick lumber instead (for the face panel). I think this would be all I need to do to get the right stick height, but I'm open for suggestions.

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by Orochi_Shoto
Well, I'm going to be done with all 4 sticks soon, and I started checking out the look of things by mounting the buttons and stick in the board. I was satisfied with the buttons, there are in a nice and pretty accurate formation, but the competition stick sits too low. I'm currently mounting all this to 3/4 inch thick lumber and was wondering if anyone has any tips for how to get the stick to stick out higher. I was thinking about using 1/2 inch thick lumber instead (for the face panel). I think this would be all I need to do to get the right stick height, but I'm open for suggestions.
NORMALLY I use 5/8" MDF and 1/8" plexi glass.
then you get perfect height. :cool:

[Phobos]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
Nope, no xbox for me lol. Since I don't have one. I dont wanna make it and have it run into problems and stuff. If you lived closer to me though Critical Hit, it would be possible cus then you can just bring it over if something happens.

Phobos: you fixed it? how?



Went to radio shack and purchased the 10ohm 1watt resistor
resolder that to my dc . Then I looked over my mas, some wires
were frayed (thin wires)
:eek: so I had to resolder my ps2 cord and some buttons wires
that came lose . Its working fine now .

[Phobos]

Originally posted by Vigorous
For some reason, I have a problem with my joystick now.

When I try and move right, it'll input two times; which makes it dash. This happens 1/4 times tested.
Did the following, but still acts screwy:
- I was thinking maybe its the microswitch, so I switched it out with one of the buttons I dont use: nope
- I wiggled and reattached the quick disconnect wires several times: nope
- Checked the wiring, to make sure its not touching any other wiring: nope
- Unsoldered the right point on the pad, and resoldered it back: nope

The only thing left is making a brand new wire for the Right Direction, and re-soldering to the pad.

Any other suggestions?







Maybe you need to try a multitester and some electrical tape on
your solder connections . I had the same problem with my mas
Do you have analog & digital ? If I was you I resolder the pad .
hope that helps

[ryucross]

OK, I'm using a 3rd Party Gamecube pad to rewire an old stick I bought for my import SC2. Problem is, whenever I plug the damned thing it, it reads the Start button constantly. Sometimes when I shake the PCB, it fixes itself temporarily, but eventually goes back to the constant start problem. Help?

[CriticalHit!]

Originally posted by SNAAAKE

Yeah I can probley do it..I only got comp,ultimate and x-arcade joystick and regular happs buttons(the ones cost $2 each).

Now I can do the base with that weird layout...:)

How much would the base be with a competition stick
and the shipping?

Dreaded Fist, would you happen to have the convex
buttons? How much would your base be with those
specs?

One last thing before I wander off: Does anyone know
of a step-by-step guide for a Reflex hack? I found this
one site on the first page of the thread (here (http://members.cox.net/joysticks/)), but are
there any others out there that are easier to follow than that?
It shows what to do and where everything goes, but I
stress the fact that this is going to be my first custom stick
project... I don't know how to ground wires or mount pcb's... :confused:

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by ryucross
OK, I'm using a 3rd Party Gamecube pad to rewire an old stick I bought for my import SC2. Problem is, whenever I plug the damned thing it, it reads the Start button constantly. Sometimes when I shake the PCB, it fixes itself temporarily, but eventually goes back to the constant start problem. Help?
did that pad have any turbo or anything.This happends random when turbo pads are used.
BUT you said shaking helps so I am guessing the start joint is touching the ground as well.
try resoldering.:)

[ryucross]

Originally posted by SNAAAKE

did that pad have any turbo or anything.This happends random when turbo pads are used.
BUT you said shaking helps so I am guessing the start joint is touching the ground as well.
try resoldering.:)

That was the problem on the first PCB I tried. I'm working on the second, and haven't connected the start button, but its still happening.

And yes, it does have a turbo function. Any advice on how to remove it?

As well, I cut the cords to the C-hat and the Rumble motor.

[ryucross]

Maybe I should just ask what you would clean a dirty PCB with.

[Nigga_D]

All this has helped me out some in mastering the art of making joysticks :D. Sucks though I paid SAV $400 to make me a stick only for him to not reply to me and keep my damn money ain't that a bitch. Can't even trust a SF player these days.

D

[sevenD_eight]

Originally posted by ryucross
Maybe I should just ask what you would clean a dirty PCB with.

trying scraping all around your solder point..if even a little solder is making things connect , shit will go nuts..i've had that problem in the past..

also, you could also, reset the controller..try plugging and unplugging...i had a problem before where all the buttons would go turbo..but after i plug and unplug, shit works great..that was the first stick i ever made tho...i know it has something to do w/ the shitty controller i wired it up with..but it only happend like twice and that was months ago..no problems w/ anything now..:D

one thing...everyone should always test the controller before hacking it(usually if its brand new & 3rd party)...kuz if its broke to begin w/, then you'll never get that thing working.laters

[2Nasty]

yo.. i have a x arcade stick.. how do i get a ps2 thing on there if i wanted to do it myself.. right now it has the same cable plug as a comp screen... :confused: so what do i need to get it to work on a ps2...

[Dreaded Fist]

Critical I don't have any parts with me but I can order them. I think Snake can get it to you faster than I can though. So go with him. He's your man. Plus i'm too busy to make a stick right now. If you need anything else in the future though, feel free to holla. HOLLAA!

[2Nasty]

Originally posted by SNAAAKE

did that pad have any turbo or anything.This happends random when turbo pads are used.
BUT you said shaking helps so I am guessing the start joint is touching the ground as well.
try resoldering.:)

all i need is the thing that lets my xarcade stick to play in the ps2... right now it has the same plug as a PC screen has.. and one that looks like a mouse can plug into it...

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by 2Nasty


all i need is the thing that lets my xarcade stick to play in the ps2... right now it has the same plug as a PC screen has.. and one that looks like a mouse can plug into it...
x-arcade sells adaptors..call them and they can hook you up..it suck ass though..begeezus..$35 for extra adaptor from x-arcade:lame: .

[GKI]

I saw Phobos talking about haking a saitek 150, as he said is has 2 grounds 1 for directions and another for buttons, well anyways i was wondering could i hook it up to my current joystick that uses a a daisy chain ground without a problem so pretty much what i want to do is connect to seperate grounds to the dame one?

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by CriticalHit!


How much would the base be with a competition stick
and the shipping?

Dreaded Fist, would you happen to have the convex
buttons? How much would your base be with those
specs?

One last thing before I wander off: Does anyone know
of a step-by-step guide for a Reflex hack? I found this
one site on the first page of the thread (here (http://members.cox.net/joysticks/)), but are
there any others out there that are easier to follow than that?
It shows what to do and where everything goes, but I
stress the fact that this is going to be my first custom stick
project... I don't know how to ground wires or mount pcb's... :confused:
check your PM ! :cool:

[Vinnyman]

can anyone recommend a PSX===>PC adaptor that doesn't have input delay? where can i get it? thx.

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by Vinnyman
can anyone recommend a PSX===>PC adaptor that doesn't have input delay? where can i get it? thx.
go to radioshack and see if they still have any..the radioshack brand works 101% perfect...:)

[atothex]

hey joystick gurus i have some questions

they may have been answered already, but 76 pages is way too many to comb thru

what are the differences between the happ sticks (ultimate, competition, super), and which would you recommend?

i'm thinking of getting a red octane and replacing the stick and buttons

do i need any special equipment or skills to do this? (like soldering?)

thx in advance

[KOF freak]

Hi i'm just wondering, how long does it usually take for my order to come here from Happcontrols? I ordered my competion stick and buttons last wednesday on 5/27 and it's friday 6/6 and it hasn't arrived yet. Did anyone else order around this time? or did i do something wrong with the ordering?

[Phobos]

Originally posted by SNAAAKE

go to radioshack and see if they still have any..the radioshack brand works 101% perfect...:)




I just got mine today ,all I have to say is go buy one now !!!!!
Well worth it:D

[Dreaded Fist]

happs stuff might be on back order. when they shipp it they will email you a tracking number and instructions on how to track it. then you can see the progress of your stuffs.

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by KOF freak
Hi i'm just wondering, how long does it usually take for my order to come here from Happcontrols? I ordered my competion stick and buttons last wednesday on 5/27 and it's friday 6/6 and it hasn't arrived yet. Did anyone else order around this time? or did i do something wrong with the ordering?
happ rapes you on shipping if its something big..like I ordered marquee retainer and monitor bezel and my shipping was ONLY $42:mad: :mad: :mad:

BUT normall happs takes about a week.
I try to avoid ordering from happs.you got bob selling everything cheaper then happs and always fast shipping.

www.therealbobroberts.com :)

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by atothex
hey joystick gurus i have some questions

they may have been answered already, but 76 pages is way too many to comb thru

what are the differences between the happ sticks (ultimate, competition, super), and which would you recommend?

i'm thinking of getting a red octane and replacing the stick and buttons

do i need any special equipment or skills to do this? (like soldering?)

thx in advance
who knows how redoctane joystick..buy it and see ! :)
as for sticks...it SUCK REALLY bad explaining which joystick is good but here is my way.

Best to worse...

P360
Super joystick(OR x-arcade super clone..they are 95% same as happs supers).
Comp
Ultimate(nothing wrong..its just others are better)

[Maverick01010]

Hey Snaaake this is Maverick I ordered a stick from you and I was wondering if you had shiped it yet? Just a quick question.

[Dreaded Fist]

Originally posted by Maverick01010
Hey Snaaake this is Maverick I ordered a stick from you and I was wondering if you had shiped it yet? Just a quick question.

hmmm sounds like Snake is also waxing his customers lol jk. jk.:lol:

[ssjbrydon]

Originally posted by SNAAAKE

happ rapes you on shipping if its something big..like I ordered marquee retainer and monitor bezel and my shipping was ONLY $42:mad: :mad: :mad:

BUT normall happs takes about a week.
I try to avoid ordering from happs.you got bob selling everything cheaper then happs and always fast shipping.

www.therealbobroberts.com :)



they ship slow......i ordered some buttons a month back and it took almost 2 weeks on a 3-7 delivery plan.........fuck ups.

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist


hmmm sounds like Snake is also waxing his customers lol jk. jk.:lol:
:lol: :lol: :lol:
I talked to him through aim..thats why didnt bother replying..coming along nicely ! :cool:

[Ookima]

Just wondering if anyone tried using a P360 on a Madcatz Dual Force 1 for the PS1, cuz for some reason I just cant draw off 3.3v to power the stick...

[Combo Master]

Originally posted by sevenD_eight


i had the same problem when we tried to use my friends converter for 3s..but for mvc2 it worked perfect..i will find out what his adapter is called and get back to you..but i use an adapter i bought off ebay..some guy sells a whole bunch of them for only 9 + 1.75 shipping...i've made custom sticks w/ 3rd party controllers using this adapter and never had any problems(not even playing 3s)..and i been using my stick for a couple months..

btw, there have been threads on adapters..try searching for them..there are a variety of adapters from different sites..try looking around the threads..

What's up man! (its Jimmy from school @ Fullerton!) I just happen to find your name here in SRK! Well anyway, yeah, I wonder why that stick wouldnt work correctly for SF 3S that day you came over!

[jonbeazles]

Does anyone know where I can find a faq or walkthrough for using an XBOX brand gamepad for an arcade stick? I tried looking through this thread, but I was only to read around 25 pages before i couldnt take it anymore... If I keep lookin will I find something?

[One Eyed King]

sorry peeps i know i should look through the entire thread which i have before cuz i was makin my stick out of a ps 1 controller but i looked at the shipping cost for a ps to dc converter and its wayyyyyyyy too damn much. so two questions...is there any way to buy a ps to dc converter at local stores like radioshack? and is there a site with a step by step guide for a dc pad hack using a p360?

once again apologies peeps

[marvelscrub]

My local EB has PS -> DC -> Saturn converters. 30 bucks or so? They're kinda flimsy, but they work.

[Dreaded Fist]

one eyed king, www.flash.to/ege has psx/ss/pc keyboard to dc converter for $10, they work great. it use the face buttons of the psx pad and the L1 and R1 button so you might hvae to rewire your stick. It works great. I haven't got any probloems from it and i've used it for all sf games on dc and ggxx for about 8 months now.

:EDIT: NM they dont carry it anymore, looks like I'm the only one that has one! mwaaahahaha.

oh a side note, has anyone tried with success to hack a wireless pad? that would be hella pimp.

[mokujin07]

Anyone know about this stick from redoctane? I want to get this thing instead of the one with the HAPP parts because I think it would be cheaper to put the parts in myself. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

This is it : http://redoctane.com/joystick-capcom.html

[sevenD_eight]

COMP over Ultimate anyday!!!and about the super? POS, seriously, POS.

wattup man. nah, never figured out why, i could care less tho. everything works fine..laters

[One Eyed King]

thanx peeps i'll try and look it up at some eb's
oh it wasnt the converter that was alot but the shipping (like 35$$!!) . Last thing...any easy hacks for dc standard pad anyone? saw one a few times but its some weird diagram and i dont understand it.
thanx once again

[TLG James]

On the buttons from Hap's or whatever, there are 3 prongs I guess You could call em. 2 copper ones and 1 non-copper metal one. Which ones do I attach the wires too.

[Seerd]

Originally posted by mokujin07
Anyone know about this stick from redoctane? I want to get this thing instead of the one with the HAPP parts because I think it would be cheaper to put the parts in myself. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

This is it : http://redoctane.com/joystick-capcom.html


Some hot looking sticks there. I'm liking the look of the competition setup, even if it is $80.

Impact V-Series W/Happ Comp Setup (http://www.redoctane.com/joystick-capcom-happ.html)

To answer your Q, competition stick and 8 comp buttons = $25-30? Plus more shipping? It'll be close. Cheap one has the plexiglass and the sweet overlay (missing from the Happ setup). Might do good to just buy the cheap one and see if you want to upgrade the stick/buttons. Might be able to get away with only doing one or the other.

Looks like new merch though...who's gonna be a brave mf and buy one?

[Dreaded Fist]

damn kinkos! has anyone run into problems at kinkos abotu the guy talking about he can't print stuff that are copyrighted? They never did this b4 then today when i go to print an overlay for my friend, this knucklehead starts talking about he can't print it because animation stuff like this has got to be copyrighted. Then I got a kinkos express card to use their computer to print it myself and that one didn't have photoshop. THe other computers had photoshop but were in used.

So does anyone know of a way around this? other than telling the guy he's an asshole and that you drew the pictures yourself and telling him to suck a fat one?? fucking shit is a hella waste of time.:mad:

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
damn kinkos! has anyone run into problems at kinkos abotu the guy talking about he can't print stuff that are copyrighted? They never did this b4 then today when i go to print an overlay for my friend, this knucklehead starts talking about he can't print it because animation stuff like this has got to be copyrighted. Then I got a kinkos express card to use their computer to print it myself and that one didn't have photoshop. THe other computers had photoshop but were in used.

So does anyone know of a way around this? other than telling the guy he's an asshole and that you drew the pictures yourself and telling him to suck a fat one?? fucking shit is a hella waste of time.:mad:
depends on location..my local dont bitch about shit but they charge like $10 for a small 17x11 print.
its ALWAYS a hassle when I am at kinkos..never happy with their work..I think he was just doin his job..try talking to the manager and tell him you drew it:lol: .
OR print it out yourself using that $0.45 per minute shit.

[sevenD_eight]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
damn kinkos! has anyone run into problems at kinkos abotu the guy talking about he can't print stuff that are copyrighted? They never did this b4 then today when i go to print an overlay for my friend, this knucklehead starts talking about he can't print it because animation stuff like this has got to be copyrighted. Then I got a kinkos express card to use their computer to print it myself and that one didn't have photoshop. THe other computers had photoshop but were in used.

So does anyone know of a way around this? other than telling the guy he's an asshole and that you drew the pictures yourself and telling him to suck a fat one?? fucking shit is a hella waste of time.:mad:

HELL YEA!!!! i went last week and homeboy was like I can't help you out with that. Tellin me this might be an undercover sting!!!i was like WTF you talkin bout..told him to help me anyway...he eventually did:lol:

and i hate that express card bullshit..you put $5 dollars on a card, only use $2.13 of it only to fall in line to get a refund from the damn card...that shit aint express...

kinkos<<~~~:lame:

[J-ride]

Everytime I go they just make me push the copy button, I dont know why you are having so much trouble.

Oh yeah, I got a new jstick about 60% complete, its gonna be one of them fancy ones that has the ports and multi system capabilites, its gonna pwn that shit down. Ill post pics of it when I finish.

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by sevenD_eight



and i hate that express card bullshit..you put $5 dollars on a card, only use $2.13 of it only to fall in line to get a refund from the damn card...that shit aint express...

kinkos<<~~~:lame:
:lol: MA NEGGA :lol:
so true.....so true !

[Dreaded Fist]

you can get refund from the card....???
and its 20c per minute here but printing is 2.50 per 11X17 sheet so its not that good anyhow.

[CriticalHit!]

Looks like I'll be facing the same problems you
have with Kinko's once I design a background
for my upcoming arcade stick. Speaking of which,
how's it coming along SNAAAKE? I hope I didn't
confuse you too much about the layout.

I'm going to buy materials soon and I have a
quick question. Do I have to use a specific type
of wire, or can I just use plain old speaker wires?

[SNAAAKE]

Couldnt do much..weather is sucking relly bad..its raining today and wet outside..will start on this tomorrow.However I have the pieces ready..just gotta put it together.
You can use regular speaker wire.
As for kinkos...you can always print it out yourself using their $0.45 minute thing..word of advice.DONT bring a file thats like too big.I had a file like 8000xwhatever and it took like 20 minutes to print out(for robogem)..ended up paying like $12 for the print..:eek: :o

[DJ NGGR]

yo snaaaaaake

How long would it take for me to get my stick if I sent you the money in a few days?

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by DJ NGGR
yo snaaaaaake

How long would it take for me to get my stick if I sent you the money in a few days?
Dunno..around 3...4 days atleast for a fancy looking one(yes,it takes time).

[DJ NGGR]

so you give it the concave buttons and the nice ass stick (happ)? what about a pattern on the front? start/select buttons? How many "attack" buttons?

[Dreaded Fist]

crappy ass kinko, i went there again today to print mylayout and it keep saying some shit about the picture being too big and clipping will occur even after i set the paper size at 11X17. then i told the guy and he had to reset some server thingy. then after that i went back in an viola~! it works! stupid ass printer dropped my picture on the floor after its printed. I was happy, but then.. when i got home, i found out the picture was resized when printed, it was about an inch smaller in each dimension. grrrrrrrrr i'm about had it with kinkhos!.

So if anyone kno of a way to use kinkos computer to print w/o rescalling the picture help me out I'd appreciate it. The asshole that can't print copyrighted materials is tehre all teh time now so i can't get by him.

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by DJ NGGR
so you give it the concave buttons and the nice ass stick (happ)? what about a pattern on the front? start/select buttons? How many "attack" buttons?
Something like this...
:cool:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid35/p3730b8a40e1a55ba57bc8ba993bf0d4d/fd2971fe.jpg

I have couple of super joysticks and 2 comps now...ACT FAST ! if you actually want the comps because those 2 will be gone before you know it :lol:
I personally prefer supers though.Thats just me but my personal panel have supers in there :D .

[Dreaded Fist]

yup i like supers better too. Snake, why dont you slant your sticks? its hard playing on a flat surface. or is it already slanted?

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
yup i like supers better too. Snake, why dont you slant your sticks? its hard playing on a flat surface. or is it already slanted?
all are slanted..cant see it from the pics...most were like atleast 30 deg angle.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

SNAAAKE: Where the hell do you find the time to make all those sticks!! :eek: Anyways, I appreciate all the support and helpful advice that you lend to this tread and helping it stay alive, and that goes for everyone else who has chipped in. We all may not agree on certain things, or have different ways of doing things or different recommendations due to preferences, but at least the newbies get all the info they need.

P.S. DON'T GET MARRIED OR HAVE CHILDREN!! You'll end up staying up after the fam are asleep to catch up on practice and finishing games. Even if you do have work in the next 3-5 hours!!

[DJ NGGR]

damn thats nice.......... anyway to get the extra 2 buttons put on it?

How much would that run me

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO
SNAAAKE: Where the hell do you find the time to make all those sticks!! :eek:
OH I do em quick...:lol:
most of them from last year(summer).
Not for money(well...) but fun:D .
You know whats funny?
you thought I was chuck(mamestation) :lol: :confused: :lol:

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by DJ NGGR
damn thats nice.......... anyway to get the extra 2 buttons put on it?

How much would that run me
sold already...but I could do something like this right here !
:cool:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid65/p4983e9b236875ee226ba8d076815a0c0/fbf48b3d.jpg

[Dreaded Fist]

*bow down to SNAAKE*
man you must have a routine for making the stick by now because it's tedius for me. The part i hate the most is drilling the holes and sanding the edges so it won't look liek ass when painted.

[SNAAAKE]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
*bow down to SNAAKE*
man you must have a routine for making the stick by now because it's tedius for me. The part i hate the most is drilling the holes and sanding the edges so it won't look liek ass when painted.
Sort of..I dont waste time:)
Like cut,drill,finish box all in the same day and wiring second day and you have it !:D
Drilling isnt that fun...wood is fine though BUT plexi...OUCH :mad: :mad: :mad: .
always cracks when you are drilling the last hole :( .
as for painting,you can prime the sides first then spray paint..that looks good(and easy).

[Dreaded Fist]

about p360s. does anyone know how to find the 5v point on a pad to use with a p360?? how would you test it out other than wiring it to the p360 and see if it works. And the gr