The Official Custom Arcade Sticks Thread [Archive] - Page 7

Ajil

08-18-2003, 12:15 AM

Okay folks I have decided to make a custom stick, mainly b/c i don't have 200 bucks to spend on a mas and then have it break like all my friends mas sticks. I would rather not solder, but I'm sure I could if I needed to. I was originally thinking of taking the buttons from my agetec, but now I figured what the hell; I'll just order some competition buttons from happ controls. Also I am planning on ordering a perfect 360 stick. I have extra xbox and ps2 pads, plus an enforcer stick, madcast pads, and sega pads for the dc.
What I really want to know is how can I make my stick compatible for dc, ps2 and xbox? Would the best solution be to use the ps2 pad and then buy adapters? Also how thick should the wood/plexiglass or whatever I use be. Sorry if these questions have already been answered, but I crapped out after reading 7 pages into the thread.

Shin-RoTeNdO

08-18-2003, 02:31 AM

Originally posted by Ajil
Okay folks I have decided to make a custom stick, mainly b/c i don't have 200 bucks to spend on a mas and then have it break like all my friends mas sticks. I would rather not solder, but I'm sure I could if I needed to. I was originally thinking of taking the buttons from my agetec, but now I figured what the hell; I'll just order some competition buttons from happ controls. Also I am planning on ordering a perfect 360 stick. I have extra xbox and ps2 pads, plus an enforcer stick, madcast pads, and sega pads for the dc.
What I really want to know is how can I make my stick compatible for dc, ps2 and xbox? Would the best solution be to use the ps2 pad and then buy adapters? Also how thick should the wood/plexiglass or whatever I use be. Sorry if these questions have already been answered, but I crapped out after reading 7 pages into the thread.

Read this ENTIRE THREAD my friend. All 38 pages of it. Just chage it to 40 post per page on your user control panel or whatever. Okay... you don't have to read, but at least scan the damn thing first. It's been answered. Every one has read em, now take the time to do the same. Thanks.

Shin-RoTeNdO

08-18-2003, 03:32 PM

Originally posted by delmari001
thanks. i emailed the pics. they were too big. thnks again.

Is it possible to take another pic without that damn flash glarring off the pcb? I can hardly see those solder spots on the top part of the pcb. Hard to tell where those go to, but never fear. I'll do what I can with the pics you sent. I'll edit them, then send them back.

doujinshi_2001

08-18-2003, 04:09 PM

Rotendo, you're my hero. KTHZXBI

Dreaded Fist

08-18-2003, 06:41 PM

theres a programming buttons on the dc madcatz dreampad, does anyone know what it's for? the button is located under the 6 face button, to the left a bit.

N64FanBoy

08-18-2003, 08:52 PM

GreatLlama

08-20-2003, 04:30 AM

Easiest way to locate ground on the pcb is to take a multimeter and test continuity. On each button pad there are two sides to it. One is positive, one is negative, negative being the ground. Most controller boards are all connected to one ground which simplifies the process of finding it. Take your leads and touch the black to one side of the button pad and touch the red lead to each button pad. You should have a short on every button. Once you find a short that will most likely be your ground. If this is too complicated for you, i can break it down barney style for ya.:D

delmari001

08-20-2003, 09:10 AM

hey all. just wanna say that i appreciate all the info everyone gave to help me build my panel. i used a pelican joystick pcb. after a few mistakes with other pcb's i sorta figured it out. anywho, everything works fine. just gotta get use to the damn thing. now it seems impossibe for me to do moves. anyhow just wanted to say thanks and that i couldn't have done it without this thread or everyone's help

fluxcore

08-20-2003, 03:02 PM

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
theres a programming buttons on the dc madcatz dreampad, does anyone know what it's for? the button is located under the 6 face button, to the left a bit.

It's for swapping button assignments...
From manual:
1) Press program button
2)button goes orange
3) Press button you'd like to remap, then the button that has the desired function

Really useful yeah? It's mainly for games that don't have any button reassignment scheme in game (yeah... like there's so many)

I prefer to remove the button altogether :D

--flux

kolp

08-20-2003, 05:23 PM

I was wondering what's the name of the tool they use to make the holes in the wood to put the push button. I seen it before but never knew the name for it.

Shin-RoTeNdO

08-20-2003, 05:58 PM

Originally posted by kolp
I was wondering what's the name of the tool they use to make the holes in the wood to put the push button. I seen it before but never knew the name for it.

1 1/8 Spade drill bit

Ferris23

08-21-2003, 05:40 PM

This thread is confusing and very large.

:eek:

Shin-RoTeNdO

08-21-2003, 06:53 PM

Originally posted by Ferris23
This thread is confusing and very large.

:eek:

Hehehe, well if you need anyting broken down to you barney style let me or anyone else here know. :D It's only 39 pages long (being that you settings is set to 40 posts per page)

KapKom

08-22-2003, 12:35 PM

I'm in a hurry and don't have time to read the whole thread, and search is not finding anything for me.

Question: How do I install Perfect 360s in a regular Arcade cabinet? NOT a console system.

The game is MvC2. If you'd like GOOD pictures of the insides let me know.

Any help would earn you $50 in a paypal account if you have one.

I want DETAILED instructions, tool names , etc.

Hope to hear something soon.

Shin-RoTeNdO

08-22-2003, 02:15 PM

Originally posted by KapKom
I'm in a hurry and don't have time to read the whole thread, and search is not finding anything for me.

Question: How do I install Perfect 360s in a regular Arcade cabinet? NOT a console system.

The game is MvC2. If you'd like GOOD pictures of the insides let me know.

Any help would earn you $50 in a paypal account if you have one.

I want DETAILED instructions, tool names , etc.

Hope to hear something soon.

If you read anything about p360s within this thread, then all you have to do is apply that to an acrcade jamma setup or whatever. You know how the cable contains a ground, then the wires for the buttons and etc... well all you really have to do other than hooking those up is to connect the wire that holds the voltage (usually says it on the cable somewhere or the white harness what wire is what) I'll try to hunt down some pics for you.

Oh yeah.. send those pics. :D

KapKom

08-22-2003, 03:34 PM

Originally posted by RoTeNdO

If you read anything about p360s within this thread, then all you have to do is apply that to an acrcade jamma setup or whatever. You know how the cable contains a ground, then the wires for the buttons and etc... well all you really have to do other than hooking those up is to connect the wire that holds the voltage (usually says it on the cable somewhere or the white harness what wire is what) I'll try to hunt down some pics for you.

Oh yeah.. send those pics. :D

I'll send those pics this evening. I don't think the cabinet has a power source.
I'd love some detailed instructions though.
Thanks

ashurax

08-23-2003, 11:40 AM

ok problem wid a redoctane joystick box and competition stick. i installed a comp stick in my friend's redoctane box and the stick ended up being really short cuz of the thick wood and plexiglass. he asked me if there was a way i could make the joystick taller, like through a taller spacer. Unfortunately i havent been able to find a taller spacer that will fit the comp stick, so im left wid only a few options. Either i can remove the plexiglass top, route the joystick mounting area, or switch to an ultimate (which is taller) or P360 (which i think is taller but im not sure. anyone knoe?) so here's a few questions i need answered?

will removing the plexiglass make a big difference? i doubt it since its only 1/8". anyone done this?

as for routing the joystick mounting area, i lack access to a router. is there any other way to obtain results similar to one from a router? like how practical would it be to just chisel away the wood? also, i do have access to a rotozip tool. can i use that to route the mounting area, and if so, how difficult would it be?

as for the P360 joystick, is it considerably taller than the comp stick? like i have a p360 stick but i never really compared them.

also, anyone knoe the exact thickness of the wood used in the redoctane box and just what kind of wood it uses?

Thanks in advance.

SNAAAAKE

08-23-2003, 12:22 PM

Originally posted by ashurax
ok problem wid a redoctane joystick box and competition stick. i installed a comp stick in my friend's redoctane box and the stick ended up being really short cuz of the thick wood and plexiglass. he asked me if there was a way i could make the joystick taller, like through a taller spacer. Unfortunately i havent been able to find a taller spacer that will fit the comp stick, so im left wid only a few options. Either i can remove the plexiglass top, route the joystick mounting area, or switch to an ultimate (which is taller) or P360 (which i think is taller but im not sure. anyone knoe?) so here's a few questions i need answered?

will removing the plexiglass make a big difference? i doubt it since its only 1/8". anyone done this?

as for routing the joystick mounting area, i lack access to a router. is there any other way to obtain results similar to one from a router? like how practical would it be to just chisel away the wood? also, i do have access to a rotozip tool. can i use that to route the mounting area, and if so, how difficult would it be?

as for the P360 joystick, is it considerably taller than the comp stick? like i have a p360 stick but i never really compared them.

also, anyone knoe the exact thickness of the wood used in the redoctane box and just what kind of wood it uses?

Thanks in advance.

you can try to route the bottom with chisel+hammer(done it before) or use a router.
Yes p360 shafts are taller then comps.
IF I were you I would just install a new p360 in there instead of the routing hassle because the redoctane box is small and you cant really use a routher there(maybe rotozip but no practical experience).

Shin-RoTeNdO

08-24-2003, 10:20 AM

Yup, the routing out the bottom with a chisel and hammer works well, as I introduced my way of doing it a while ago.

Shin-RoTeNdO

08-26-2003, 08:42 AM

Welcome to the stick building team. Current members: RoTeNdO, Dreaded Fist, and SNAAAAKE. :D I really got to post more pics on my site. Anyway... DF, I noticed that on your site, of the the pics you have up have the button layout design over the artwork. Was that a copy paste work? and how do you guys get so good with the photoshop artwork? Do you all just do extracting images or is it more to it than just that? Thanks.

ZProtoss

08-26-2003, 01:31 PM

Roto, when you build your sticks what's the usual overall cost for materials/etc. (Presuming you go with a comp joystick and comp buttons).

Also I guess its worth asking how much do you charge for labor/etc, when you build the stick for someone else. (Since I'm not sure later down the line if I'd want to build a stick or not due to the time/effort/learning involved).

SNAAAAKE

08-26-2003, 01:54 PM

Originally posted by ZProtoss
Roto, when you build your sticks what's the usual overall cost for materials/etc. (Presuming you go with a comp joystick and comp buttons).

Also I guess its worth asking how much do you charge for labor/etc, when you build the stick for someone else. (Since I'm not sure later down the line if I'd want to build a stick or not due to the time/effort/learning involved).

A fairly good looking single stick would cost you around $60-70 to build with artwork and plexi.

IF you skip artwork them maybe around $50(depends).

Dreaded Fist

08-26-2003, 07:31 PM

Originally posted by RoTeNdO
Welcome to the stick building team. Current members: RoTeNdO, Dreaded Fist, and SNAAAAKE. :D I really got to post more pics on my site. Anyway... DF, I noticed that on your site, of the the pics you have up have the button layout design over the artwork. Was that a copy paste work? and how do you guys get so good with the photoshop artwork? Do you all just do extracting images or is it more to it than just that? Thanks.

thas a secret broham, lol jk. but I use the magic wand tool to crop the images, and I put the lay out on top. It took me quite awhile to crop images but i keep them saved liek that on a big photoshop file so it make things faster. I just drag and drop the layout over the image.

and for kicks, poeple check this out! my first stick! lol good it was ugly, i think rotendo commented on it abotu teh bolts sticking out lol.

www.geocities.com/konxept/joystick.jpg

www.geocities.com/konxept/joystick1.jpg

Canned Toast

08-27-2003, 01:25 AM

I came across a link that would be good for anyone that may be interested in doing any Soul Calibur custom art. The pictures are clean, with ONLY the character on a solid white back ground. Perfect for the magic wand tool using inverse mode like Dreaded Fist was talking about.

copy, paste, then scroll down

http://www.felixmcli.org/sc2-galleries-ill.html

Although I suppose the best thing to do would be to scan the pics from the Art book that was availible with the game.

BMIIDX

08-27-2003, 10:38 AM

My joystick is at my friends shop. They build Kitchens for multimillion dollar houses, and my joystick is so perfect right now. We just put another coat of primer on it and sanded it again, and now we're triple coating it with black paint, then stenciling a V.S sign in the middle and then laquering it 3 times. It is wood, but the paint is so smooth, with no holes at all, that it feels like plastic. I'll post pics once it's done!

Mischief

08-27-2003, 04:35 PM

does anyone know where I can buy the box for the joystick for cheap? I'm not good with wood, so I would like to start of from there . . .

Dreaded Fist

08-29-2003, 12:57 PM

www.redoctane.com sells the box for $25

ZProtoss

08-30-2003, 11:18 AM

Speaking of redoctane on that very issue. DF, wouldn't it make more sense price wise to grab the 29.99 cheap namco/capcom joystick they make? Since correct me if I'm wrong, but once you open it up it'd be a solderless free job to simply swap out the cheap parts and put in the happ parts right?

Dreaded Fist

08-30-2003, 11:51 AM

I suppose so, yeah. BUt I've never tried it so I can't say much about that method.

doujinshi_2001

08-30-2003, 12:24 PM

That wouldn't be a good plan, cause I've heard of people blowing their controller ports changing out the parts for Happ ones.

VietKhan

08-30-2003, 01:24 PM

Hi,

I'm at the finals steps at completely my arcade controller. All i have to do now is solder on a few remaining wires that fell off while i carried it to my car, and i have to solder the 5 volts onto the p360. I'm curious as to the procedure in soldering the 5 volts from the controller to the p360. This is because I do not know where i should solder off the blue wire, and onto where i should shoulder the 5 volts to the p360. Please help.

Thanks,
VietKhan

ZProtoss

08-30-2003, 06:13 PM

SB, the thing is I think the joysticks that they sell use a ps pcb in them, with everything connected appropriately. Just with cheap joystick parts insteado happ parts. Plus aren't the blowouts mainly attributed to the 360s?

OneInchPunch

08-30-2003, 06:36 PM

been awhile since i posted in this thread. anyways, in my arcade, the buttons feel like there's some kind of heavy spring inside or something. i dunno if i'm describing this right but it feels like you actually have to push instead of lightly tapping on the buttons. i know comp buttons are easy to push in. are ultimates like how i described?

OneInchPunch

SNAAAAKE

08-30-2003, 06:54 PM

Originally posted by OneInchPunch
been awhile since i posted in this thread. anyways, in my arcade, the buttons feel like there's some kind of heavy spring inside or something. i dunno if i'm describing this right but it feels like you actually have to push instead of lightly tapping on the buttons. i know comp buttons are easy to push in. are ultimates like how i described?

OneInchPunch
Yes vertical ultimate buttons are EXACTLY how you described.

I personally prefer horizontals...cool for my taste. :cool:

VietKhan

08-31-2003, 12:23 PM

Originally posted by Voodoo
I installed a 360 on my MAS for my DC like a year ago, haven't had any problems with the controller port blowing out so far. :lol:

A DC contoller cord is just made up of five little wires. One of these wires actually provides the +5v that the 360 needs. Just solder a wire coming from where that one meets the circuit board, lead that to the 360, and you're golden. I'm not sure exactly what color the wire is though, I'd have to look when I got home.

I took a pair of scissors, and I cut the blue wire half way from where it leaves the controller cord, and where it connects to the dc pad. Then I soldered a wire to the blue +5 volt wire, and soldered THAT on to the p360. Is this all correct?

Also, I am curious as to the structure of the wiring for all the buttons. Mine do not work, and i'm going to The Home Depot today to purchase thinner wire, and re-do it all.

itslog1

09-01-2003, 10:10 AM

hahaha, something happened that i did not expect to happen but in the aftermath i got pics. well it's got a competition stick which i regret and concave competition buttons from therealbobroberts.com which i regret as well. but that shit could be fixed

itslog1

09-01-2003, 10:21 AM

wiring.

hey vietkhan study this next pic hard cause it will help you with wiring if that is your problem, just make sure you know about the difference between the tabs found on the microswitches.

Dreaded Fist

09-01-2003, 07:44 PM

The tabs on the micro switch can actually be wired reverse. You can wire ground wire to the NO and action to the COM, this is how mas is done, this'll come in handy when your wire is a bit short or something.

GreatLlama

09-02-2003, 09:19 AM

Vietkhan

Make sure you ground the 360 right or else your dreamcast is toast. Also when you solder make sure none of the solder shorts out to anything else. If you dont have a multimeter i would strongly suggest one.

BMIIDX

09-02-2003, 09:21 PM

Here we go.

Well, It's almost complete, and ready to be shown to the world, my custom joystick. Ah yes, what a beauty she is, I just wish that I had before and after pics.

I got a joystick from a friend, who got it from a friend. It was made out of 10 year old crappy wood, that had a horrible paintjob (lmao dmitri) and was wired up for a panasonic 3do. I took it from my friend (for a small fee of course) bought some old PSX controllers, and sat down with a vision in mind. And now, without further delay, I bring you, the ultimate in home fighting equipment. The V.S Custom Divitt-Baiocco josytick.

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/3.jpg

This is almost the finished product. As you can see, it's been primered, sprayed (in a proffesional wood finishing spray booth) sanded and laquered to perfection. It is so smooth that it almost feels like plastic.

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/5.jpg

My friend Jay who owns the shop where all the woodwork was done took it upon himself to fool even the most trained eye into thinking that the thing was made of one piece of wood.

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/4.jpg

We then designed a V.S symbol (pretty much stolen from SNK V.S Capcom) and stuck it on with some red spraypaint.

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/2.jpg

Now the funny thing is that I labored over wiring up the P1 side and did many intricate things, and it was just too much. The wiring came out loose and hectic.

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/1.jpg

But on my first attempt at the 2P side, I had a beautifuly soldered and mounted PCB in under 3 hours.

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/8.jpg

It's really simple to wire up, and I taught myself everything I Know through trial and error.

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/7.jpg

So ph33r me and my l33t joystick. In a few years I'll be able to own Mike :P

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/6.jpg

P.S- On a side note, I will slowly be gathering my money while I'm at university and ordering custom IIDX buttons. Soon I will have a IIDX controller that looks and plays just like my fighting stick does.

Shin-RoTeNdO

09-03-2003, 03:35 AM

I'll have some pics of my latest project up on my site shortly (or at least the status of it). This will be my first artwork/plexi design. I'm working with photoshop right now and messing around a little. Any ideas are welcome, if I can post this pic, tell me what you think so far. www.rotendo.50megs.com

RoTeNdO

Edit-nevermind...wouldn't let me post it...file is too large

m3talslug

09-05-2003, 09:47 AM

BMIIDX <-- good work... but you're a terrible photographer

Originally posted by BMIIDX
Here we go.

Well, It's almost complete, and ready to be shown to the world, my custom joystick. Ah yes, what a beauty she is, I just wish that I had before and after pics.

I got a joystick from a friend, who got it from a friend. It was made out of 10 year old crappy wood, that had a horrible paintjob (lmao dmitri) and was wired up for a panasonic 3do. I took it from my friend (for a small fee of course) bought some old PSX controllers, and sat down with a vision in mind. And now, without further delay, I bring you, the ultimate in home fighting equipment. The V.S Custom Divitt-Baiocco josytick.

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/3.jpg

This is almost the finished product. As you can see, it's been primered, sprayed (in a proffesional wood finishing spray booth) sanded and laquered to perfection. It is so smooth that it almost feels like plastic.

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/5.jpg

My friend Jay who owns the shop where all the woodwork was done took it upon himself to fool even the most trained eye into thinking that the thing was made of one piece of wood.

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/4.jpg

We then designed a V.S symbol (pretty much stolen from SNK V.S Capcom) and stuck it on with some red spraypaint.

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/2.jpg

Now the funny thing is that I labored over wiring up the P1 side and did many intricate things, and it was just too much. The wiring came out loose and hectic.

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/1.jpg

But on my first attempt at the 2P side, I had a beautifuly soldered and mounted PCB in under 3 hours.

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/8.jpg

It's really simple to wire up, and I taught myself everything I Know through trial and error.

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/7.jpg

So ph33r me and my l33t joystick. In a few years I'll be able to own Mike :P

http://members.rogers.com/corrieis/joystick/6.jpg

P.S- On a side note, I will slowly be gathering my money while I'm at university and ordering custom IIDX buttons. Soon I will have a IIDX controller that looks and plays just like my fighting stick does.

Dreaded Fist

09-05-2003, 09:08 PM

can anyone give me some important safety tips when using a table saw? I read that the stocked 3 in 1 blade guard/riveting knife/and anti-kickback paw is no good. Should I change it? I also read that the reason why experts change their blade guard and such is so they can install a shorter riveting knife to be able to make non-through cuts(a cut that doesn't go all the way into the wood). Any tips would be appreciated.:)

Shin-RoTeNdO

09-05-2003, 10:22 PM

Don't know what to tell ya. I haven't invested in a table saw yet, though I've been close twice now in getting a Skillsaw for $40 at Lowes' . I've always just cut through from one end of the wood to the other.

Shin-RoTeNdO

09-06-2003, 10:38 AM

Testing to see if I can post my stick artwork. I don't really plan to use this one. Just experimenting right now.

Let me know what you guys think. Feel free to use it as a wallpaper if you want, I don't care.

asianghost

09-07-2003, 01:43 AM

can someone give me the exact measurements for the button layout? i skimmed the links in the first page through 40 and didnt see anything. thanks alot!

OneInchPunch

09-07-2003, 08:41 AM

i think it's generally 8" by 14 1/2". n rotendo, whoa, heihachi's fist looks fuckin huge.

Shin-RoTeNdO

09-07-2003, 08:50 AM

Originally posted by OneInchPunch
i think it's generally 8" by 14 1/2". n rotendo, whoa, heihachi's fist looks fuckin huge.

I know kid, that is how it's suppose to look. It's closer to the camera, so things that are closer apear larger than something that is farther. Take a pen, or you hands for example and have on arm out in front of you, then the other with your hand in front your face. Which is larger? The hand that is closer. You learn things like that if you draw in art classes or in photography and shit like that. Anyway, that pic was drawn by Namco artist, and I just used it.

BMIIDX

09-07-2003, 03:10 PM

Heh, blame it on my Camera Metalslug. it would look better, but I was using a digital video camera that had no light, and it was night time so I couldn't go outside to get any good shots :/ Ii needed a flash to make it look better.

G-R0C

09-07-2003, 07:48 PM

i ordered stuff from happcontrols, it takes forever /=. when did your stuff come when you orderd them?

and about 360 stix, i need a 5v adapter? can't i use a the ps2 for my power? if so , how ??? and i can't use a $5 controller for 360? help it's discombobulating my mind!!

Dreaded Fist

09-07-2003, 07:56 PM

you can use any controller, all controller have a power output. for psx its the 5th pin on the plug, just trace that to your pcb. and i get my stuff from

www.gamescabinetinc.com , they're a bit cheaper and accept paypal, and does not charge tax, and most importantly, they're faster than happs

Shin-RoTeNdO

09-08-2003, 04:21 PM

My shit comes in 7 days (exactly) everytime that I've ordered, it was no longer than that, except for the red competition pushbuttons cuz they were on back order, but STILL managed to get in BEFORE the other parts that I ordered simultaneously with it! :eek: I guess it depends where you live. Now they have another location in SC wich is only about 3 hours from here (state, not warehouse) I'll check out that other website, and add it to the links. I'm going to go through all 40 pages and make sure that I have all the links up to date. Yeah, I said 40 vice the 100+ cuz I have my page set for 40 posts per page.

G-R0C

09-08-2003, 06:34 PM

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
you can use any controller, all controller have a power output. for psx its the 5th pin on the plug, just trace that to your pcb. and i get my stuff from

www.gamescabinetinc.com , they're a bit cheaper and accept paypal, and does not charge tax, and most importantly, they're faster than happs

dead link /=

Shin-RoTeNdO

09-08-2003, 07:30 PM

Yeah, dead link, or mis-typed. Anyway... I just got finished going though this whole thread and it took my nearly 2 1/2 hours!! :eek: Good info on pages 7,12, 23, 26, and 27. Updated the links, deleted some dead ones. Enjoy. Make sure to check out my recently updated site for some fresh pics.

Dreadedfist: Going through those old pages, you said about opening up that layout template in photoshop and then opening a grid or something to customize it. And also to use autocad if I had it, what is autocad? Thanks

Anyone has seen those new arcade sticks that pelican just released? Cheap ass wood, horrible buttons (really hard to press), and a cheap ass wannabe super joystick, held by cross head bolts vice carriage. They had them for sale at Gamestop/Babbages for $59.99 and were available for GC/XB/PS2. The buttons and joystick can be replaced with the REAL arcade buttons and joysticks. I might buy one to take a peek inside and see what they use for their pcbs. I wouldn't be surprised to find out if it's old controllers that didn't see and also to see how they did the wiring.

Tata for now.

Mulligan

09-08-2003, 08:54 PM

yea i saw those sticks, the buttons do suck. Im not too sure on the level of crappiness for the stick tho, but i dont see any point in buying it, even if ur gonna replace the stick and buttons why dont u jes get one of those cheap redoctane sticks will be alot cheaper in the end

Shin-RoTeNdO

09-08-2003, 10:09 PM

Originally posted by Mulligan
yea i saw those sticks, the buttons do suck. Im not too sure on the level of crappiness for the stick tho, but i dont see any point in buying it, even if ur gonna replace the stick and buttons why dont u jes get one of those cheap redoctane sticks will be alot cheaper in the end

:confused: I make my own sticks, and wouldn't bother buying a red octance stick. I just want to check out the construction of the damn thing. Then replace the buttons/sticks and re-sell it on eBay or one of my Marines that lives in the barracks (They buy EVERYTHING!) lol either way... I'll make my money back. At least I can bash it afterwards since I had the opportunity to 'own' it for a week or so. :D

BMIIDX

09-09-2003, 04:13 AM

http://www.gamecabinetsinc.com/info.htm

Google is your best friend.

Mulligan

09-09-2003, 12:58 PM

Originally posted by RoTeNdO

:confused: I make my own sticks, and wouldn't bother buying a red octance stick. I just want to check out the construction of the damn thing. Then replace the buttons/sticks and re-sell it on eBay or one of my Marines that lives in the barracks (They buy EVERYTHING!) lol either way... I'll make my money back. At least I can bash it afterwards since I had the opportunity to 'own' it for a week or so. :D

yes i do know u make ur own sticks. i was saying dont buy that stick to everyone, not you specifically

Dreaded Fist

09-09-2003, 05:50 PM

ROTENDO: auto cad is a program for drawing blue prints, but you really dont need it, hit me up on aim
bboystep
and we'll talk

rotendo: can I have the japanese agetec joystick that you rip out from your agetec?
;)

Shin-RoTeNdO

09-09-2003, 07:50 PM

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
ROTENDO: auto cad is a program for drawing blue prints, but you really dont need it, hit me up on aim
bboystep
and we'll talk

rotendo: can I have the japanese agetec joystick that you rip out from your agetec?
;)

Let me know about the status of that guy. If not, then I can sell you the joystick. I have two empty Agetecs if you want parts from it. Only thing it doesn't have are the pcb's.

doujinshi_2001

09-09-2003, 07:55 PM

Rotendo (or anyone)

How hard would adding an Xbox PCB to a MAS be? Cause I'm thinking about hacking a Reflex, and just putting the guts and shit inside with the MAS I already have so I wouldn't have to make an Xbox stick.

rokkon

09-10-2003, 12:04 PM

Hi everybody, Just wanted to say hi and give some input as well as ask a question.

This has been a great thread, in fact I've read all 105 pages (default view without registering), and I decided to make my own stick. Instead of going all out, I decided to order the redoctane box with pcb (no stick, no buttons) and some parts from haps to throw it all together.

I wanted to offer some info about it:

First of all the box is designed ok. The space inside is a little cramped, so there's not a lot of room for drilling more holes. Some people complained that the start button on the regular octane stick is a little too close to the main 6 for the standard SF layout, so I ordered a button plug and put that in and moved the start button over one. In total there are 9 holes, 6 for the standard SF layout, 2 for start/select, and 1 for the stick.

Second, the box I ordered did come with a lexan/plexi cover (or something of the see through smooth nature), unattached. It had all the holes drilled except for the stick itself. :o So I found myself putting in the stick first, then the cover, then the buttons to hold it in place...which works ok, but I get the feeling that it vibrates a little when i hit my punch buttons a little hard. I wish I had a drill.

Third, the pcb is disappointing. I mainly got it because I didn't want to do any soldering (since I don't have the money to spend on an iron and time to mess with it just yet).

The wires were ok, not great. To my surprise they all came with quick disconnects already on...and to my dismay, I found out that only 5 of them were the right size (joystick and ground), the rest were too small, so I had to recrimp those suckers. In addition, the ground itself was only done singularly, so I had to cut it and recrimp it in a daisy chain style. And lastly, none of the wires were labeled so I had to do some blind checking touching wires together until I found the ground.

The other disappointing thing is, RedOctane decided to leave out L1 and L2...I don't know if it's missing all together from the pcb, but it's definitely not soldered.

So basically, the box is ok, check one of the other threads for more info about that. The pcb could've been much better, but I guess for only $5 and no hassle, you could do far worse. In the future I'll probably replace it when I get enough time. I recommend the box to those of you who are afraid to work with wood, just be prepared to spend a lot of time with a chisel so your stick won't be so short, and I only recommend the pcb for the truly lazy, I really really suggest you learn how to solder and go with a 3rd party pcb.

Now for my question. Thanks to all of you guys' info, I was able to successfully put it together in 2 days. First day it took me a few hours to chisel into the top for the stick so it wouldn't be so short, by then I realized that some of the quick disconnects didn't fit, but all the stores around here were close to closing so I wasn't able to go out until today, and I got all the wiring done.

Anyway, the problem is this: I wired all of my buttons except for select, which is just in the box dangling freely. Unfortunately, if I turn on my ps2 and have my stick plugged in, some of the buttons turn "rapid"; in other words, if I hold them down, they work rapidly...but if I unplug the stick and plug it back in without turning off the system, the problem goes away. I've tried reseting and that doesn't work; I always put my ps2 into standby mode vs turning it off. After some testing, I found out it happens on the same buttons: start, square, circle and R2.

Why does this happen? Is it just because RedOctane's pcb and cord are crap? Any help is appreciated.

doujinshi_2001

09-11-2003, 12:13 PM

Quick, what's the best next controller to hack for Xbox besides the Reflex?

SNAAAAKE

09-11-2003, 12:18 PM

Originally posted by Soulblade136
Quick, what's the best next controller to hack for Xbox besides the Reflex?

madcatz...:cool:

doujinshi_2001

09-11-2003, 01:55 PM

Madkatz...what? Any Madkatz controller? And will it be compatible with XBL?

Shin-RoTeNdO

09-12-2003, 10:19 PM

Originally posted by Soulblade136
Madkatz...what? Any Madkatz controller? And will it be compatible with XBL?

The ones they sell at Wal-Mart. Perfect, I just picked up 2 Madcatz controller for the PSX/PS2 for only $4.99 each :eek: can't beat that now.

doujinshi_2001

09-12-2003, 10:20 PM

Have you seen some for Xbox?

Ookima

09-14-2003, 10:19 AM

Hmmm...I was wondering...I have a p360 based stick at home and it is hacked from a PS1 controller. Now will this work when I try to connect to a gamecube or Xbox via a converter? I am not sure if it will still draw the voltage needed to make things work...

Brutha' Mayne

09-14-2003, 12:21 PM

rotendo: i just thought i'd hit your thread up. nice thread...i'ma eventually get my own custom arcade stick. i could prolly do the art for it too.:cool: i'ma need this thread...

Shin-RoTeNdO

09-14-2003, 12:28 PM

Soulblade136: Yes, but it's a bit more than $4.97 and something like $14.99 or so.

Ookima: Yes, but not all 3rd party controllers are compatible with converters and only Official SONY PSX/PS2 controllers are garaunteed to work on them.

Brutha' Mayne: Yeah, any questions you have will be answered here by either SNAAAKE, Dreaded Fist, myself of someone else.

Exodese2.0

09-15-2003, 03:10 PM

This is a great thread. I'm thinking about going into this scene myself, taking my interest in video games to a more constructive approach. Building sticks, and if my first one goes good, I'll make more then sell them. And maybe I can quit my retail job (ahh my life with no more 4 AM dragging sessions....) if it's cookies and cake from there. Don't wanna look way forward yet, but it's nice to have for an in-house biz, like this man I knew that did car interiors straight from his own garage at his house.

Now one question, as far as joysticks go, what kind do most people use? Competition sticks, or p360's?

And aren't p360's the most expensive like 40 bucks and over?

sambao

09-15-2003, 06:10 PM

hello. a question that REALLY bugs me as of half an hour ago...

does anyone kno if the dream connection II (lets u plug in psx controller into DC) sold at http://www.innovation1.com/ can damage the psx controller?!?!

I was playing some cvs2 today and out of nowhere my joystick stopped working!! I tried many times restarting the system and only once it worked again but stopped working at the SAME point it stopped last time (prior to choosing a blue outfit terry bogard versus ryu in training mode... too weird).

anyways I plugged the thing back into a my psx and it still dont work..... so if anyone has any info about how the inovation can screw your controller it would help me I guess...

also I think a simple solution would be (if it is the controller part thats messed up) jus to buy a new controller and rewire everything... sux I gotta bug my friend now.

EDIT>>>

and while on this topic, here's some curiousity poll questions:

what are some other common reasons why custom sticks can break??? and how often have you had one break on you?? I kno a friend of mine had a zugg stick that he needed fixed one time. anyway thats all, jus curious.

JHendrix

09-16-2003, 04:48 AM

Figured I might as well hop on these:

I'm a bit of a joystick buildin nut and right now I have two sets of sticks, one US style (that true to US design philosophy is too big, and is hard to use on your lap. Works great on a table though!) and my two new Japanese style sticks I just built (that are small, efficient, easy to have on your lap and play, but sadly don't have the same nice feel as the US ones).

Japanese style:

http://web.njit.edu/~jal0737/GFX/Misc/newjoysticks.jpg
http://web.njit.edu/~jal0737/GFX/Misc/joysticks_side.jpg - only 1.7" thick!!! :D

US Style:

http://web.njit.edu/~jal0737/GFX/Neo-Geo/3rd%20Gen%20Sticks.jpg

Stock these are Neo-Geo and PSX compatable and I have adapters to use it with PC, DC, XBox, and eventually I'll get some PSX to GC adapters as well.

Also they've got a dual layout similar to the X-Arcade and hot rod controllers so I can have a button style that fits with just about anything I'd want (easy to have the Capcom, SNK, VF, and Tekken layouts). Oh and the Japanese style sticks have 4 common lines run to them just incase I ever have to hack an evil multi-common joystick/pad. :p

doujinshi_2001

09-16-2003, 12:32 PM

Nice sticks, man. The japanese styles definitely remind me of Hori style sticks.

Dreaded Fist

09-16-2003, 01:49 PM

ok metal cutting fiends~!

how do I make this cut,

attachment, i need to cut a piece out of a metal pipe

Fresh Air LA

09-16-2003, 03:25 PM

Does anyone know for sure if the ps1 madcatz has a 5volt power source (enough current) for the perfect 360 joystick because i am not satisfied with the ultimate joystick i recently built for fighting games. If the gamepad does support p360, are the ground and positive wires: black and orange or red i think. one last, are they located towards the center of the gamepad where the rainbow colored wires (i think 7 wires) connect from the back of the gamepad. please help. Thanks.

doujinshi_2001

09-16-2003, 06:16 PM

Is there a drill bit size I need to use for drilling carriage bolts? If so, what is the correct size?

SNAAAAKE

09-16-2003, 06:27 PM

Originally posted by Soulblade136
Is there a drill bit size I need to use for drilling carriage bolts? If so, what is the correct size?

1/4" :cool:

doujinshi_2001

09-17-2003, 12:17 PM

OK, another question. How do barrier strips work specifically? I wanted to get one because I've seen it makes wiring really neat. I'd love to have my wiring as neat.

fluxcore

09-17-2003, 03:02 PM

Originally posted by Soulblade136
OK, another question. How do barrier strips work specifically? I wanted to get one because I've seen it makes wiring really neat. I'd love to have my wiring as neat.

Big hunk o' plastic with holes in both sides. The holes have metal bits, into which you plug your wire, and then screw down the... screw... on the top to secure it. Do the same for the other side, and violin, you have yourself a connection. Solderless, and relatively easy to change if needed.

Other variants include terminals to which you attach quick-disconnects, same deal but a bit easier to change around, but you have to crimp wires.

Basically just a convenience/neatness thing, completely unneccesary.

--flux

doujinshi_2001

09-17-2003, 03:23 PM

So, one side is ground, while the other side is the action connection(X, B, etc)?

fluxcore

09-18-2003, 03:22 AM

Originally posted by Soulblade136
So, one side is ground, while the other side is the action connection(X, B, etc)?

Well no, it's more or less just a way of making a connection between two wires easily. You have the same contact on both sides of the strip. It's just X->X2. So you can have the stick side of the wiring separate from the PCB side.

--flux

Onikage

09-25-2003, 01:17 AM

okay, so im trying to wire up competion stick and some happ convex buttons to a first party DC controller. and it recognizes the stick in the DC, but the stick wont respond and it only acknowledges button pressing when you press what would be L and R and the same time. can anyone offer some insight?\

EDIT - so everything works except L, i'm not sure why not. Any help would of course be appreciated.

ONE MORE EDIT - so we jacked the PCB, and i've got a blaze twin stick lying around, so i ripped out the board on that one. But the problem is there's two contact points for each button, and the blaze buttons attach directly to the board. Is there some kind of workaround? Wiring one wire to one contact, or one wire to both contacts, or two wires to seperate contacts yielded nothing tangible, but the stick freaked out a bit and moved around kinda randomly. Does anyone have some advice?

armad1ll0

09-26-2003, 12:27 AM

I don't know what the problem might be but I've wired up quite a few of the first party DC pads and I've never had a problem. I'm in Mountain View and could look at if you just pay me for my time and for shipping.

Shin-RoTeNdO

09-26-2003, 05:38 AM

Originally posted by Onikage

EDIT - so everything works except L, i'm not sure why not. Any help would of course be appreciated.

You have a short somewhere or it's probably not grounded properly. Best way to check is to use a multimeter

ONE MORE EDIT - But the problem is there's two contact points for each button, and the blaze buttons attach directly to the board. Is there some kind of workaround? Wiring one wire to one contact, or one wire to both contacts, or two wires to seperate contacts yielded nothing tangible, but the stick freaked out a bit and moved around kinda randomly. Does anyone have some advice?

Okay, for this problem you'll probably will have to trash those wires that are connected to the buttons. Actually, is the Blaze stick a ball type with cheap jap buttons? Those type of joysticks usually are wired/soldred directly to the buttons. If you are using just the pad, just remove the wires from the buttons and if they are long enough to reach your stick button microswitches, then crimp on some .187 female quick disconnects and make sure that you don't forget to have it grounded like it was on the blaze. If the wires are going to be too short, you have two options: a. you can run them through barrier strips, b. you can solder on longer wires from the pcb to reach the microswitches.

If you have any other questions, just post. I've been busy working on sticks and work/school/family and practicing for a tourney so I have a tight schedule.

TheRealNeoGeo

09-30-2003, 08:30 AM

What PSX pads do you guys use when you make a custom stick. Any links? And does it work with Xbox, GC and PS2 with an adaptor?
I have seen a psx pad (3rd party) on lan-kwei.com for 5 bucks, anybody know if this one works any good?

Shin-RoTeNdO

09-30-2003, 08:47 AM

Any 3rd party controller should work. The best one to use so far are Madcatz controllers. Wal-Mart sells these PSX Madcatz controllers for only $5!! The one without the rumble feature. You can use the following pads:

PSX/PS2:
Nyko
SONY (original, PS1)
Pelican Retro Shock 2
Madcatz Dual Force 2 Pro
Madcatz Digital Controller ($5)
PS Arcade (joystick)
Namco (joystick >for Tekken mainly)
Dual Force (joystick)

DC:
Agetec (joystick)
Pelican
Madcatz
SEGA
The Enforcer (joystick)

GC:
Nintendo's Wavebird
Pelican
Madcatz

XB:
Madcatz

DarkChylde

09-30-2003, 11:59 AM

There's some controllers that this company makes that also feature auto-fire, you might want to stay away from those. I've had trouble making them work correctly, and I'm not really sure why. -quoted from CDVision's site

What kind of problem would you run into as I'm gonna use the cheap Madcatz Digital Controller found at WalMart as it has an auto-fire function? I know RoTeNdO recommends this but I'm a total newb so I want the building of my first stick to run as smoothly as possible.

armad1ll0

09-30-2003, 12:12 PM

There is a Sony pad that has small copper points exposed on the PCB so you don't really have to dremel the black contact material off to expose the copper. Zip tie your wires down to the pad and then solder each fine wire to the contact point similar to these pictures. http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/systems/Wavebird_Stick.htm

It's the Sony Digital Series H pad. For some reason, it's important to me to have it say Sony on the cord, purchased used for $8 each. (not shown, my example is my work on a wavebird)

If you want to use the Sony DualShock (the white one) then you can desolder the ribbon cable and then solder right to the PCB (very small points to solder to) I like the Dualshock because it has better compatibility to those adaptors. Here's the wire code for that ribbon cable on the DualShock series H. I use this one when I want to do a dualshock. Here's an example of a dualshock stick.
http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/systems/Stealth.htm

Wiring code (top of ribbon, away from the LED)
1 mode change
2 Joy left
3 Joy down
4 Joy right
5 Joy up
6 Start
7 Select
8 L2
9 R2
10 L1
11 R1
12 Tri button
13 O button
14 X button
15 Sqr button
16 Ground

I've located adaptors that'll work with just digital pads as well. The thing with adaptors are that there's three levels of compatibility.

1) adaptors that need a dualshock.
2) adaptors that need a sony digital (or very good digital pads that are coded similar to the sony digital)
3) adaptors that'll still work with other 3rd party digital pads. Less similar to the Sony one.

The adaptors that I'm talking about are for Xbox and Gamecube. Compatibility for Dreamcast and PC/USB are less of an issue.

There was a broken PS2 DualShock2 here at work that I'm now doing the ribbon wire code to. This way I can salvage this one. I also have mapped out the MS Xbox controller at home. You can solder directly to the small points on the back of it instead of trying to scrap off the black conductive surface material.

sp1200

09-30-2003, 04:29 PM

can anyone link a diagram that shows where to solder for the original ps1 pad, not the dual shock version?

SNAAAAKE

09-30-2003, 04:34 PM

Originally posted by sp1200
can anyone link a diagram that shows where to solder for the original ps1 pad, not the dual shock version?

http://axelb.free.fr/caj/psx.html :D

sp1200

09-30-2003, 05:40 PM

thats exactly what i wanted... sort of.
my pad looks different.

especially the traces where the buttons are supposed to hook to.

TheRealNeoGeo

09-30-2003, 10:05 PM

I have read that some games are looking for those two analog thingies on the dual shock, what happens when you don`t have them (use digital pad instead)? What games can`t I play if I use digital?
I saw a controller for 5 bucks on lan-kwei.com....are they any good?

armad1ll0

09-30-2003, 10:32 PM

Most or none of the fighting games require a dualshock so you're safe going with the digital. You won't be playing onimusha on your stick nor would you want to.

Most pads now are fine. Some of the original 3rd party pads did not produce a signal that was exactly like the Sony pad. Back when I had more disposable income and didn't want to build my own sticks I had a pair that used a hacked 3rd party PCB in there. Tekken 3 didn't work and that was the end of that pair. I went in there and hacked in a pair of Sony pads and then everything was compatible. I've heard of no stories like this one anymore.

Later on when the adaptors starting showing up for the Gamecube/Xbox I went in there and tried them on the digital sony pad. NO GO so I then started hacking in Sony Dualshock pads. Now the adaptors that are showing up work with even digital pads to now you don't need to as long as you get the right adaptor that is more compatible.

TheRealNeoGeo

09-30-2003, 11:11 PM

But what PSX pads is thebest/cheapest to use? I have read that some psx pads don`t work with a Playstation console so how do you solve that one? And is it better to use a orginal dual shock you think? Is it hard to solder ( I am not so good at it)? where do you buy your pads, you have some url`s :D.

Best wishes

TheRealNeoGeo

09-30-2003, 11:17 PM

doesn`t work with a Playstation 2 console.

TheRealNeoGeo

09-30-2003, 11:32 PM

used this controller?

http://www.lik-sang.com/info.php?category=14&products_id=3544&

I know It has turbo and all that but can`t it work? Buy 5 and get 57,86% off :D

sp1200

10-01-2003, 11:38 AM

are the lexan sheets everyone is using easy to cut with a tablesaw and drill through using a hand drill? <--- i mean hand held drill as opposed to a drill press.

Shin-RoTeNdO

10-01-2003, 11:59 AM

You using a table saw to cut lexan!! Hand drill?

I used to do the following: Score the plexi, then snap it. Now I use a jig saw to cut plexi using a blade to cut metal (lots of teeth). I use power drill for the holes, but in reverse, for the buttons and joystick holes, 1 1/8 spade bit regular (not reverse) with the plexi flushed with some type of board behind it/beneath it.

fluxcore

10-01-2003, 03:14 PM

Originally posted by RoTeNdO
You using a table saw to cut lexan!! Hand drill?

I used to do the following: Score the plexi, then snap it. Now I use a jig saw to cut plexi using a blade to cut metal (lots of teeth). I use power drill for the holes, but in reverse, for the buttons and joystick holes, 1 1/8 spade bit regular (not reverse) with the plexi flushed with some type of board behind it/beneath it.

lexan != plexi...

--flux

armad1ll0

10-01-2003, 03:38 PM

Lexan, plexiglass, and acrylic are all different. They have different properties.

I actually use acrylic these days. It's cheap and it's easy to work with. I don't really have too many problems with it. Scoring and inducing a forced break along a line is easy if you have a sharp edge and steel straight edge. Hand tools work fine to cut shape and drill through it.

Mulligan

10-01-2003, 05:01 PM

If i use a ps1 pad for a PCB. A really old one i had since i got the ps1, are there any chances the PCB will fuck up on me because its so old?? or does that not usually happen??

armad1ll0

10-02-2003, 02:11 AM

The normal things to go bad on a controller are those damn rubber nipple things with the contact pad. They go bad with time after extended use. The cords also get woundup and torn over time as well.

PCB's almost never go bad unless you have a severe short somewhere and somethings starts burning on one.

So in other words, NO... you should be good as long as you take care in mounting it well.

Mulligan

10-02-2003, 06:27 AM

koo thanx alot armad1ll0

Dreaded Fist

10-03-2003, 06:56 PM

Do not every get the quantum fighterpad for hacking purpose. At first i was like oh this'll work, 6 face buttons! It turns out the 2 extra face buttons are jab and short when the controller is set at default. I'm wtf??? and they call this a fighter pad?

SNAAAAKE

10-04-2003, 01:45 PM

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
Do not every get the quantum fighterpad for hacking purpose. At first i was like oh this'll work, 6 face buttons! It turns out the 2 extra face buttons are jab and short when the controller is set at default. I'm wtf??? and they call this a fighter pad?

Indeed...
Hey man,sorry to hear that.I should have posted about my experience with quantum fighter pad ! :mad: :lol: :mad:
I tried couple of days ago and nothing worked.Button were programed all by itself and stuff.....

Everyone,AVOID this pad at any cost !

k00k0

10-08-2003, 11:07 AM

hey everyone! i'm new here and i'd like to get into stick making (although i'm completely new to it all...). i typically prefer japanese style ball topped sticks so i was looking on ebay and i found this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...item=3245848142
has anyone ever tried this stick? or this dealer?

i would also like to know if this would be decent for a pcb and if anyone has tried to use it in a stick before...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...&category=21188

i'd really appreciate any help.

Alexlexus

10-11-2003, 06:33 AM

Need some help Doing custom art work for my arcade stick......
i just got th real arcade for the xbox by pelican. greatest stikc out there but any how i'd like some help making it look more like my own thing. all i want to do is put some art work on it like some of you guys making those custom bass ass sticks. i love to look at them on Snakes site but i want to do that too.

here is what the real arcade looks like:

http://www.gamestop.com/common/images/lbox/801689b.jpg

Now here are some pcitures i am looking at that i might want for the new face lift:

http://www.gamegen.com/fightgen/characters/ryux3.jpg

http://www.gamegen.com/fightgen/characters/ryu-svc.jpg

http://www.gamegen.com/fightgen/cha...ingsidekick.jpg

http://www.gamegen.com/fightgen/cha...intro-close.gif

http://www.gamegen.com/fightgen/characters/sfz3-ryu.gif

http://www.gamegen.com/fightgen/cha...fromsfcomic.jpg

those are just ideas but i need you guys else. any of these pics would work?

The_Cheat

10-11-2003, 12:01 PM

Hey everyone. This thread is truly kick-ass! I've actually read all of the pages (but forgot some of the stuff in the beginning :P). I have a couple of questions: 1) This will sound stupid, but I can't properly put my Competition stick together. First, I would stick the pivot cylinder onto the shaft. Then I would put the washer on the shaft and stick the whole shaft through the hub. At the bottm, I would put the Actuator, but the shaft is not long enough to put on the E-Ring. Am I doing something Wrong?

Second question: Is there a way to completely disconnect the Analog function in the Dual Shock Controller for the PS1? I'm only the controller because it works with the Nyko Playcube adapter for the Gamecube. The analog is a problem because it center or neutral is not really center, and I wont be able to turn the Analog off unless I make a button specifically for that, but it's kinda useless.

Thanks a lot for all the useful information! I'll post my stick whenever I finish it.

Athanasy

10-11-2003, 02:27 PM

very well done thread sticks these days are just getting way too pricy. Im thinking about building one but have no clue how lol now i can learn some shit

Shin-RoTeNdO

10-12-2003, 04:01 PM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Alexlexus
greatest stikc out there...

You're not serious right?

Athanasy

10-12-2003, 04:25 PM

yea u could say im a noob at dis shit cuz i usually buy everything.

Can ne1 help im constructing a joystick for my DC?

doujinshi_2001

10-12-2003, 04:40 PM

Originally posted by Athanasy
yea u could say im a noob at dis shit cuz i usually buy everything.

Can ne1 help im constructing a joystick for my DC?

Read the thread.

Mulligan

10-14-2003, 12:27 AM

im trying to use a sony PS1 pad for a PCB for a stick. so i scratched off the black rubber stuff of the contacts but for some reason i cannot solder on to the contacts at all. all the solder goes onto the soldering iron even after i tip it and all i get on the PCB is this brown gooey looking stuff (im assuming thats rosin). so what can i do about this??

Shin-RoTeNdO

10-14-2003, 07:03 AM

Try using soldering flux. Yeah, that brown shit is rosin.

GreatLlama

10-14-2003, 07:40 AM

If there is already brown shit on it that is the soldering flux put into the solder for you so you dont have to use flux. Make sure you tin the wire it makes a huge difference. If that doesnt work sometimes putting a little solder on the contact first can work too.

Athanasy

10-14-2003, 01:22 PM

alright thanx lol i should read then post

Shin-RoTeNdO

10-14-2003, 07:58 PM

Does anyone know anything about hooking up some sort of audio to a controller? I know I've seen some controllers with headphones jack to hook up your headphones to listen to the game without having the tv up, but don't know if any exist with the modern systems.

Where I'm going with this is this... I want to hook up some speakers/sub-woofer to my 2 player setup. Like those Magikkastle 60 inch screens at some arcades.

Mulligan

10-14-2003, 08:16 PM

what kinda stores can i get soldering flux from? and how exactly do i use it??

Athanasy

10-14-2003, 09:08 PM

in your opinion since u seem like experts,
what are the best equipment to get for a stick
like what joystick and buttons and shit all that stuff

Shin-RoTeNdO

10-14-2003, 10:11 PM

Mulligan: RadioShack, just apply it to the surface where you want the solder to go. Also try reading the instructions on the flux container or whatever.

Athanasy: Well, when it comes to equipment, it's all preference. I don't know how many times that question has been answered on here. The most popular are p360s and competitions for joysticks, some say supers, then ultimates. Competitions for buttons hands downs. Everything else is extra shit... umm lexan for the protective sheet or another type of plexi like acrylic or optix, particle board or mdf board for wood, 1st party brand controllers for pcb use and etc....

armad1ll0

10-14-2003, 10:51 PM

RoTeNdO is right, it's all up to opinion.

I play 3rd strike everyday in our lunch room a couple of times and they have Ultimates. I have competitions at home and have been playing around with the P360. I personally actually want to get most familiar with Sanwa Japanese sticks which I think are the "quickest." I can't stand the feel of the P360 cause I'm so used to the clickyness of a microswitch stick. It just feels to mushy to me even though so many swear by it.

If you like a particular stick then no one can really tell you not to use it right? The trick is going around and testing out everything to see what you may like or dislike.

Faight

10-15-2003, 07:57 AM

Welp, I got my new stick all soldered together... it works great, but there is one tiny lil problem... the short (lk) and forward (mk) buttons act like they're being tapped when I hold them down. Its not a rapidfire PCB (I think), its the PCB that comes with the RedOctane stick. I truly hate this PCB, the connections are so friggin small I'm amazed I managed to get it working considering this is my first time soldering. Anywho, any idea why the buttons act like they're being constantly pressed?

GreatLlama

10-15-2003, 08:39 AM

check to make sure there are no shorts between contacts. Sometimes they're so small you cant see em unless you really look.

armad1ll0

10-15-2003, 11:44 AM

which buttons are you using? the RO ones or new microswitch ones?

I've done a bunch of work on the Redoctane PCB and I've never seen that ... hmmm

Mulligan

10-15-2003, 11:49 AM

cant u get that rapid fire effect if u wire the microswitches wrong, like one prong is for regular button pressing and the other one is for rapid fire

Athanasy

10-15-2003, 12:59 PM

thanx again i better start purchasing

m3talslug

10-15-2003, 06:06 PM

Updated my website (http://tobywong.50megs.com). Added 3 more double joysticks. They pretty much follow the same plan as my first. Here are the images:

http://tobywong.50megs.com/pictures/ryujstk.jpg
http://tobywong.50megs.com/pictures/ryuvsakumajstk.jpg
http://tobywong.50megs.com/pictures/wolverinejstk.jpg

Jawbreaker

10-15-2003, 07:22 PM

Originally posted by m3talslug
Updated my website (http://tobywong.50megs.com). Added 3 more double joysticks. They pretty much follow the same plan as my first. Here are the images:

http://tobywong.50megs.com/pictures/ryujstk.jpg

nice UPGRATE...where did u get the SANWA stix? cuz i wanted a couple! thnx

m3talslug

10-16-2003, 04:47 AM

I grabbed them from an arcade supply store in Toronto. There are tons of jap cabinets here and all of them go to the same place when they want to replace parts.

I'm not sure if you can order online, but you can give it a try:

http://www.starburstcoin.com

Originally posted by Jawbreaker

nice UPGRATE...where did u get the SANWA stix? cuz i wanted a couple! thnx

Faight

10-16-2003, 05:20 AM

Originally posted by Mulligan
cant u get that rapid fire effect if u wire the microswitches wrong, like one prong is for regular button pressing and the other one is for rapid fire

All the microswitches are wired to the same prongs... I haven't had a chance to take my stick apart again and look at the PCB (stupid work) but I'll do that as soon as I can. They're Happs competition buttons with those Cherry switches. Also, a Happs competition joystick... I ordered the sticks/buttons awhile back but never got around to making my box, then someone linked me to the RedOctane PCB-already-wired-box and I was like "Woah, perfect for those lazy people like me" but then I ended up rewiring the entire thing anyways because they setup the PCB totally wrong.

Anywho, I'll check the microswitches and PCB again.

Dreaded Fist

10-17-2003, 08:53 AM

what does everyone think of this idea. An artwork overlay, with a beast on it, and a light underneath where his eye is, and everytime u hit a button it lights up.

TheRealNeoGeo

10-17-2003, 09:52 AM

light underneath the eye hu, I would like to see the whole thing be a light you know like in the Michael Jackson music video Billie Jean where he walk and it lights up :D , that would be so cool!

Don`t know if it`s gonna work though....

Shin-RoTeNdO

10-17-2003, 09:17 PM

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
what does everyone think of this idea. An artwork overlay, with a beast on it, and a light underneath where his eye is, and everytime u hit a button it lights up.

Very creative and possible.

Cut a hole with a jig saw in the shape of the eye of the beast wherever it's going to be, the artwork can be (most likely) done photo paper covered with plexi of course. Don't cut hole on artwork (duh) Get a light bulb, hook it up and fix it underneath the eye and wire it using a power source, but with the ground connected to the buttons ground. Than way when a button is pressed (circuits are closed) the light will light up.

I really love the idea. One last thing. What color will the light be? Green, red, yellow...

Dreaded Fist

10-18-2003, 06:47 AM

red, and I'm thinking I would rather drill a hole than cut it ou with a jig saw, since its gonna be a small hole :p.

Toodles

10-18-2003, 09:20 PM

You know, there really is a ton of possibilities if you draw the +5 or +3.3v from the controller. The illuminated evil eyes would rock. How about blue LEDs giving a glow to the hands of Akuma or Rock (Howard) when they have the whole 'glowing, flaming hands of evil power' type poses?

If you really wanted to get kinky with it, a small Atmel PIC could control a row of leds for a KITT (Knight Rider) back-n-forth lighting. I still want to see a stick with the classic lighted buttons from asteroids (? small buttons, red LED inside, conical shape) used for the Start button. Or how about a cute set of 10 LEDs like this:

o o o o
o o o o o
o

That lit up with each stick movement/ button press. I would be cool in the same way VMU's were, and be handy for identifying problems with the switches. No need for a PIC for this one.

Damn, you got me thinkin' all sorts of ideas now

Jawbreaker

10-18-2003, 11:42 PM

Originally posted by Toodles
You know, there really is a ton of possibilities if you draw the +5 or +3.3v from the controller. The illuminated evil eyes would rock. How about blue LEDs giving a glow to the hands of Akuma or Rock (Howard) when they have the whole 'glowing, flaming hands of evil power' type poses?

If you really wanted to get kinky with it, a small Atmel PIC could control a row of leds for a KITT (Knight Rider) back-n-forth lighting. I still want to see a stick with the classic lighted buttons from asteroids (? small buttons, red LED inside, conical shape) used for the Start button. Or how about a cute set of 10 LEDs like this:

o o o o
o o o o o
o

That lit up with each stick movement/ button press. I would be cool in the same way VMU's were, and be handy for identifying problems with the switches. No need for a PIC for this one.

Damn, you got me thinkin' all sorts of ideas now

:p i can dig it

Dreaded Fist

10-20-2003, 10:02 AM

toodles thats very good stuff. But I dont think i will go with the rock/akuma glowing hand since thats capcom's artwork. But maybe... perhaps for myself, an sword glowing ninja. what do you guys think? glowing eye beast? or sword glowing ninja.

and btw for the glowing hand, would that not take too much light? and cutting a hand out of the wood sounds like a pain as well.

Shin-RoTeNdO

10-21-2003, 03:14 PM

The eyes dawg!!

gl0ry

10-21-2003, 04:48 PM

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
toodles thats very good stuff. But I dont think i will go with the rock/akuma glowing hand since thats capcom's artwork. But maybe... perhaps for myself, an sword glowing ninja. what do you guys think? glowing eye beast? or sword glowing ninja.

and btw for the glowing hand, would that not take too much light? and cutting a hand out of the wood sounds like a pain as well.

I think its a funny concept. It's of no importance at all but it would be interesting

Dreaded Fist

10-22-2003, 12:41 PM

Toodles

10-22-2003, 07:52 PM

well actually I think it wont work, because for it to work i would have to wire the light to ground which is ok, but then I'd have to wire the other connection from the light to every buttons. Unless someone with great electronic knowledge tell me something I dont know.

What I figured you would do is use a transistor. Have the ground wire (the one that is connecting all your microswitches) go to the base pin of a NPN transister, a lead from the +5v from the controller board going to (in order) a resistor, the resistor going to the LED, and the LED going to the collector pin of the transistor. The emmitter pin would connect to the common ground on the controller. When a little current flows between the base and emitter pin (like the switch for one of the buttons closing), that will allow the LED powered by the +5v line connect to ground, lighting it up. I think. :)

Again, Im not a EE, but want to be (7 credits this semester, 135 to go).

Mulligan

10-23-2003, 01:48 AM

Im gonna get some artwork printed soon for a stick. Im planning on taking it to kinkos. my questions are how should i have the file jpg or in photoshop format (psd). can i put it on a site and dl it from kinkos or do i have to put it on a disk or cd?? what kinda paper do u think it would be best to print on? and lastly around how much is this gonna cost??

GreatLlama

10-23-2003, 08:58 AM

Originally posted by Mulligan
Im gonna get some artwork printed soon for a stick. Im planning on taking it to kinkos. my questions are how should i have the file jpg or in photoshop format (psd). can i put it on a site and dl it from kinkos or do i have to put it on a disk or cd?? what kinda paper do u think it would be best to print on? and lastly around how much is this gonna cost??

Well the best paper you can get is vinyl which will cost ya extra although i have been satisfied with high gloss paper. If you go with photoshop format you will need to put it on a cd, jpeg will fit on disk but if possible put it as a photoshop file because they will be able to edit it for you if need be. High gloss photo should only cost you about 6 bucks or so, i think for a couple prints the last time i went it was about 12 bucks so. hope that helps

Dreaded Fist

10-23-2003, 02:13 PM

toodles, get aim so we can talk.

.toodles

Mulligan

10-23-2003, 04:19 PM

Originally posted by GreatLlama

Well the best paper you can get is vinyl which will cost ya extra although i have been satisfied with high gloss paper. If you go with photoshop format you will need to put it on a cd, jpeg will fit on disk but if possible put it as a photoshop file because they will be able to edit it for you if need be. High gloss photo should only cost you about 6 bucks or so, i think for a couple prints the last time i went it was about 12 bucks so. hope that helps

koo thx alot

Shin-RoTeNdO

10-25-2003, 06:26 PM

Dreaded Fist: Guess what? I found the microswitch pcb board for that other agetec! I just aquired a 2 player control panel that was originally to a SFII machine which was in a flood, which happened to just be sitting in the back room at the arcade I go to frequently. The owner obviously had no intentions on using it in the near future or ever, so I had the guy who worked there, also a personal friend hook me up with it. Anyway, while I was cleaning it, and busting the rust of everything, replacing the buttons, cleaning the sticks, and etc... I was looking for some microswitches to replaced the badly rusted ones and in one of the bags I had, found the old pcb board for the stick that belonged to the agetec. I don 't have any money to send it know, but early next month I can send it. Just thought I'd let you know.

The_Cheat

10-26-2003, 02:38 PM

Hi Everyone. This thread has been great! It's given more information than most books I've ever read. I have a cople of questions though.
1) A) How and when would you know whether your PCB is busted or not? My soldering LOOKS ok, but I'm not sure.
1) B) How can I go about testing if my soldering is working?

2)Does anyone have a link to pics of a hacked grey/white PSOne Dual Shock Controller? I'm asking for specifically this one because my Gamecube/PS2 converter doesn't seem to read third party controllers.

3) Is it ok to use 0.250 quick disconnects in stead of 0.187? The stores in my area only carry 0.250 and of the places that DO carry 0.187, They come in a pack of 10, where 5 are 0.187 and the other 5 are 0.250 and I don't really feel like ordering dsisconnects online.

Thanks in advance!

Shin-RoTeNdO

10-26-2003, 04:20 PM

Originally posted by The_Cheat
Hi Everyone. This thread has been great! It's given more information than most books I've ever read. I have a cople of questions though.
1) A) How and when would you know whether your PCB is busted or not? My soldering LOOKS ok, but I'm not sure.
1) B) How can I go about testing if my soldering is working?

2)Does anyone have a link to pics of a hacked grey/white PSOne Dual Shock Controller? I'm asking for specifically this one because my Gamecube/PS2 converter doesn't seem to read third party controllers.

3) Is it ok to use 0.250 quick disconnects in stead of 0.187? The stores in my area only carry 0.250 and of the places that DO carry 0.187, They come in a pack of 10, where 5 are 0.187 and the other 5 are 0.250 and I don't really feel like ordering dsisconnects online.

Thanks in advance!

1. Buy or borrow a multi meter to test your connections and to see if you have anything shorting out.

2. I think there is a site with pics, but I don't know the link.

3. Yes, I use .250 quite often for the buttons. Radio Shack doesn't sell 100 packs of .187 or more than 10 in a pack and they run almost $2 per pack! Where as you can buy a 100 pack of .250 for barely $5 and you can then use some pliers to tighten the crimps (before you slide them on) If you understood what I meant by saying tighten the crimp, I meant bending the ends in a little.

mastermind

10-26-2003, 04:55 PM

Originally posted by The_Cheat
2)Does anyone have a link to pics of a hacked grey/white PSOne Dual Shock Controller? I'm asking for specifically this one because my Gamecube/PS2 converter doesn't seem to read third party controllers.

I got this one from one of the links on the first page.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jdpyle1/controls_playstation.htm

This is what I'm working on now at the moment, as well. It has the correct solder points and what commons you can use if you're fitting a P360 stick in your box.

Although, I really have no idea how I'm going to fit both of those PCBs into my Red Octane box, short of cutting/filing a hole to run the controller cable through.

Mecha71

10-26-2003, 05:09 PM

quick and simple question...which are the best buttons for a Cvs2 type game?

Shin-RoTeNdO

10-26-2003, 06:39 PM

Originally posted by Mecha71
quick and simple question...which are the best buttons for a Cvs2 type game?

It's really a preference. Most big arcades have competitions installed in their games for when they host tourneys. Some smaller arcades are lucky to have them depending if the owner knows a thing or two about gaming and such. Anyway... I prefer competitions then ultimates, the lastly supers. I guess since the Japanese plays on competitions (CvS2) then I would say you may want to invest in some competitions, but it's really how the player plays, and not the buttons.

The_Cheat

10-27-2003, 04:10 AM

Hey everyone!
Here's my unfinished stick. You'll probably notice that a blue button is missing...it's at my friend's house.
The box is white, because it's the only color paint I have in the house, but it still looks nice. Now, all I need to do is the soldering, and I'll be done :)
I also have to put some art on it. Anyone have an approximation as to how much it would cost for a poster that's 36' x 14'?

P.S. Sorry for the crappy quality.

P.P.S. I'm gonna post my pcb later today. maybe someone can spot the problem with it.

SNAAAAKE

10-27-2003, 01:29 PM

Originally posted by The_Cheat
Hey everyone!
Here's my unfinished stick. You'll probably notice that a blue button is missing...it's at my friend's house.
The box is white, because it's the only color paint I have in the house, but it still looks nice. Now, all I need to do is the soldering, and I'll be done :)
I also have to put some art on it. Anyone have an approximation as to how much it would cost for a poster that's 36' x 14'?

P.S. Sorry for the crappy quality.

P.P.S. I'm gonna post my pcb later today. maybe someone can spot the problem with it.
my local kinkos charges 7 sqft on vinyl.
it will be around $30-35.
Avoid glossy paper.its crap for $12 sqft :mad:
It scratchs easy and colors are smudgy.
(vinyl looks fine)

The stick looks pretty good so far

Dreaded Fist

10-27-2003, 01:53 PM

Originally posted by RoTeNdO
Dreaded Fist: Guess what? I found the microswitch pcb board for that other agetec! I just aquired a 2 player control panel that was originally to a SFII machine which was in a flood, which happened to just be sitting in the back room at the arcade I go to frequently. The owner obviously had no intentions on using it in the near future or ever, so I had the guy who worked there, also a personal friend hook me up with it. Anyway, while I was cleaning it, and busting the rust of everything, replacing the buttons, cleaning the sticks, and etc... I was looking for some microswitches to replaced the badly rusted ones and in one of the bags I had, found the old pcb board for the stick that belonged to the agetec. I don 't have any money to send it know, but early next month I can send it. Just thought I'd let you know.

YES YES!!!

do you have a paypal account? I could send you some money thru there so you can send it.

The_Cheat

10-27-2003, 07:19 PM

Originally posted by SNAAAAKE

my local kinkos charges 7 sqft on vinyl.
it will be around $30-35.
Avoid glossy paper.its crap for $12 sqft :mad:
It scratchs easy and colors are smudgy.
(vinyl looks fine)

The stick looks pretty good so far

Thanks SNAAAAKE.

Here's my pbc. Hopefully someone can find the problem with it.

My PCB (http://www.geocities.com/ultimate_blaze/pcb.html)

Should I de-solder and start over?

Shin-RoTeNdO

10-27-2003, 08:05 PM

Where is your ground? Also, use a multimeter to see if there is a connection.(the best way to see if your pcb works)

Oh btw, nice stick. Looks like a lot more people are going for the 2 player set up now days.

I haven't been able to work at all due to eye surgery and all, but my latest project is more of an refurbishing type of work. All that I CAN actually do right now. So I've been cleaning an old flooded 2 lpayer set up I aquired. It came from a SF II machine, with original buttons (ultimates) and joysticks (ultimates... the old ones!!) A little WD-40 here and there, some wire brush for the rusted bolts and screws, orange clean and pine sol and water for the buttons, cleanded the plexi, but decided that I will replace it with somethine that doesn't have cigarette burns or cracks. Keepting the original vinyl layout (SF II) on it, just wiped it clean, and will put on the new plexi to make it look new. Then I'll have to do some re-wiring, and most likely buy new micros switches for everything since they're all rusted and dirty. (broke a few trying to clean them)

Should I keep the newly clean push buttons or should I go ahead and order new competitions for them?

What about the joystick? The base on the bottom seems warped due to being screwed down so long over another rounted hole from pre-existing layouts (this panel is old) I already cleaned the joystick and feel new, and are already broken in.

I'm deciding to maybe make it a multi-system panel. I'll do what one of the links I have on the 1st page did and use a project box and do it that way, except it will look more like a converter than anything else. Okay, gotta go for now, everything is blurry and I can't see shit!! I'm suppose to be healed by now, but they say it takes weeks and month until my eyes adjust and I'm seeing at 100% ack!!! Sad thing is I have to go back to work on Wednesday too! I had my 5 days off, but I don't think it's enough.

Wish me a quick recovery in the seeing department.

The_Cheat

10-27-2003, 10:09 PM

Hope your eyes get better soon!

My ground is the bottom half-circle of the right direction. According to this site (http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jdpyle1/controls_playstation.htm) , it should be the right place for a ground. Maybe I didn't scratch off enough of the black stuff because my solder points didnt look as clean as the ones from that site.

SmoothCat

10-27-2003, 10:18 PM

wich is the better stick?

http://www.ncsx.org/2003/ncs051203/fex.htm

or

http://www.consolesandgadgets.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/26_40/products_id/955

i like ball sticks this arnt the ons that screw on are they?

SNAAAAKE

10-27-2003, 10:25 PM

Originally posted by The_Cheat

Thanks SNAAAAKE.

Here's my pbc. Hopefully someone can find the problem with it.

My PCB (http://www.geocities.com/ultimate_blaze/pcb.html)

Should I de-solder and start over?
Nothing works there?
did you scrap the black stuff and soldered on golden contacts on the PCB ? :confused:
I can guess you didnt scrap the black stuff.desolder,scrape with a blade and redo it. :)

The_Cheat

10-27-2003, 11:17 PM

Actually, it works...somewhat!

I think it wasn't working before because there was a little bit of loose solder on the PCB that I didn't notice. Now it works, mostly. I still have one problem though...sometimes, when I press right, it does light jabs. Even if I let go of the joystick, it seems like the jab button is stuck on rapid fire for a second or two, then it stops. Then there are other times where the jab isn't responding when I press it a few times, but then it goes into rapid fire again. Is it bad soldering this time? Wires too close? Thanks for the help!

doujinshi_2001

10-28-2003, 03:13 AM

Check your soldering. There may be little stray balls of solder somewhere on the board where they shouldn't be (most likely the ground).

GreatLlama

10-28-2003, 06:59 PM

Another thing that might help is that you have way to much wire exposed on your wires and that can cause shorts if they touch anything which can cause much BIGGER problems. Like rotendo said to make sure you have a solid connection do a continuity test with a multimeter. Set your multimeter on ohm measurement with the sound on. strip the other end of the wire and touch one end on the wire and the other end to the pcb. If you dont get at least a 0.03-04 reading you may not have a good connection.

Shin-RoTeNdO

10-28-2003, 07:27 PM

GreatLlama: Where the hell you been? Anyway... my sight is not steady yet as I'm still seeing blur sometimes and then someimes I can see clearly for a few minutes. I can't wait till my sight is steady and I can see (I mean really see) Doctor said my vision would get worst for a bit, then within the next few weeks get better, then months, and etc... So this means, I haven't been able to work on anything (of course). I aquired that 2 player setup from the arcade. Cleaned it up a bit, buttons and sticks, putting a new plexi on it, going to dust out the inside box, bust the rust off the bolts or buy new ones, then buy new microswitches cuy they are all shot and re-wire it. Might make it for PSX/PS2 or DC or GC... I really want to make it multiplayer since I already have a PSX/PS2 2 player setup (the one we play on all the time) Or for PC for MAME and shit. Don't know right now. I'll keep you posted.

Evilhead

10-28-2003, 09:19 PM

Hey everyone! Thanks for all the great information! My stick is coming along very nicely... I think it looks fantastic! I'll be sure to post picture when I'm finished (probaby by this weekend).

Anyway, I wanted to do the Japanese-style button layout, but was having trouble finding a template... So I made my own! I think it's pretty nice, since it sort of doubles as the SNK/Soul Calibur button layout if you use the top three buttons plus the leftmost botton one. I thought maybe someone else would find a use for it, so here's the link:

http://www.chocobo.org/~Beast/Japanese6.jpg

The circles are the exact size of the plastic nuts on the Happ buttons, the widest point on the buttons. Hope this helps someone!

doujinshi_2001

10-29-2003, 03:15 AM

Nice stuff man. You should've made this an attachment though...

GreatLlama

10-29-2003, 06:00 AM

Rotendo: I havent gone anywhere man, still here:D you got that lasik eye surgery? damn you poor bastard. looks like you're not playing games for a while.

The_Cheat

10-30-2003, 11:17 AM

Originally posted by GreatLlama
Another thing that might help is that you have way to much wire exposed on your wires and that can cause shorts if they touch anything which can cause much BIGGER problems. Like rotendo said to make sure you have a solid connection do a continuity test with a multimeter. Set your multimeter on ohm measurement with the sound on. strip the other end of the wire and touch one end on the wire and the other end to the pcb. If you dont get at least a 0.03-04 reading you may not have a good connection.

Thanks for the help. You're probably right about the over-exposure of my wires. Can I use electric tape to cover the wires or will it not work?

Another question...how is the quality of the art from (GameGen (www.gamegen.com) when you blow it up? I don't wanna waste money printing a poster if it's gonna be pixelated. Thanks :)

GreatLlama

10-30-2003, 01:06 PM

well it can work but i wouldnt recommend it, i would desolder and cut them short. not only does it make it look better, it would be more durable. Now with the pictures it depends on the size of the picture. Most of the pics have turned out pretty good. Go to kinkos and usually they can help you out with makin it look good. PM me if you want pics of what the soldering should look like.

sundu

10-30-2003, 04:04 PM

Where can I get a stick and buttons like on the DC joystick? I'd like the stick to be clicky, too.

Shin-RoTeNdO

10-30-2003, 08:31 PM

Originally posted by GreatLlama
Rotendo: I havent gone anywhere man, still here:D you got that lasik eye surgery? damn you poor bastard. looks like you're not playing games for a while.

I had PRK eye surgery. Basically the same thing, but it takes longer to heal :( Right now, my scar tissue is still healing, that's why I'm not seeing anywhere close to 20/20 yet. The first day though, I was seeing 20/25, 20/32, the doctor said it'll get worst cuz of the healing. So I'll be gradually seeing better as the days turn and shit.

P.S. I found a MINT CONDITION copy of MvC1 for DC at EB tonight for $12!! Hell yeah I bought it! Fuck the PSX version, now I can tag out characters! I had MAME, but without a joystick it's not the same thing you know.

-Master Stick Designer Out!! :lol:

SNAAAAKE

10-30-2003, 08:44 PM

Originally posted by RoTeNdO

I had PRK eye surgery. Basically the same thing, but it takes longer to heal :( Right now, my scar tissue is still healing, that's why I'm not seeing anywhere close to 20/20 yet. The first day though, I was seeing 20/25, 20/32, the doctor said it'll get worst cuz of the healing. So I'll be gradually seeing better as the days turn and shit.

P.S. I found a MINT CONDITION copy of MvC1 for DC at EB tonight for $12!! Hell yeah I bought it! Fuck the PSX version, now I can tag out characters! I had MAME, but without a joystick it's not the same thing you know.

-Master Stick Designer Out!! :lol:
what exactly caused the eye problem ?
Too much video game ? :confused:
I suggest you take a break,atleast till you see better:D

Shin-RoTeNdO

10-31-2003, 12:13 AM

Originally posted by SNAAAAKE

what exactly caused the eye problem ?
Too much video game ? :confused:
I suggest you take a break,atleast till you see better:D

Nothing caused it, except maybe sitting too close to the tv when I was younger playing those damn games...
I wore glasses and contacts and the surgery was to correct my vision. It also got rid of my astigmatism that I developed a few years back. Nothing serious, just had my eyes fixed for free by the government and right now was a good time cuz everyone was getting their sight corrected. Out in town or whatever the average price to have them do it is around $1,000 (LASIK) Military only does PRK (Photo Refractive Keratectomy) No need to get into details, but it's a pain typing when I'm on my pc or at work when I have to get work done (a lot of it)