The Official Custom Arcade Sticks Thread

[gamingnow.net]

changed my art for anyone whos interested.

[Mulligan]

Originally posted by gamingnow.net
changed my art for anyone whos interested.

imo the first one look better (other than the punches being on the bottom and such) but thats up to you

[gamingnow.net]

first pics of my stick!!!! no art or pcb on it yet.

[Morphiend]

i have a reflex hack stick for my xbox. everything is currently soldered. it works great but i can't use it on my friend's dc since there aren't any converters out there.

what would be the best way to go about adding a ps2 pcb to share the hardware that's already being used by the xbox hack?

[gamingnow.net]

now with art!

[doujinshi_2001]

That's pretty good....the buttons are a little high but good nevertheless

[gamingnow.net]

i wanted the buttons high so that my wrists have alot of resting space.

[Ceramiclion]

Hello, I know i posted this question in my Dc arcade post but no one is looking at it so, i decided to post it here too.
Well anyways, I just bought this 2 p360s off of ebay and I'd like to know whihc type they are. The guy claim they are old stock but have never been used, well i was just wondering if these are the old super p360s. If not what are they?
thank youhttp://i8.ebayimg.com/02/i/00/ed/2e/9f_1.JPG

[x_tremer]

Im pretty new at all this and i might start my own project.

I wanna make a stick for the DC and i have a 3rd party pad called the astropad. Is this easy to work with??

And can the ground connection on the pad work with any unused connections like the analog stick or the turbo button?

thanks

[Dreaded Fist]

The astropad is pretty complex to work with x, try to get a 3rd party pad with 6 face buttons. And even if you do get the astropad to work, the shoulder buttons will lag. There's also 3 different sets of ground, and the shoulders require a special way of connecting it to the microswitch.

www.wrongcrowd.com has a guide for hacking the astropad i think.

WARNING! Please all read below.

I wired a stick for a customer with a sony pad, but it was a different version than what i'm use to, the buttons have square black stuff over it, and the red wire is 2nd from the bottom as oppose to 4 from the bottom of the row of wires coming from the plug. There are no visible copper on the pad and you have to scrape off the black stuff. The black stuff also cross over several green traces. It works ok, until I plug it into the dc converter from levelsix. It did not register anything. I know it was the pad because the converter works with other pads and the bad-pad worked on psx alone. So apparently there are some compatibility issues here.

[GXE]

What is the DPI you guys work up your art in when in Photoshop? Do you also print at that same DPI?

[SNAAAAKE]

Originally posted by GXE
What is the DPI you guys work up your art in when in Photoshop? Do you also print at that same DPI?
300 dpi.
However,make sure your computer can handle that :)
And SAVE!!.You are almost done and boom ! photoshop crashes...:mad:

[gamingnow.net]

update on my stick. now has plexi.

things to do:

get a real print, from kinkos or the like
repaint it.

[Combo Master]

I need to know where I can get convex buttons from!

[stubburn]

hey guys, I'm sure somebody may've gone over this by now, but the search function is down, and this thread is huge....

can anyone point out where to solder the mad katz pad on the xbox? I want to solder the L+R's, but there's three contact points, just wondering how you can tell which is the one to solder. Last time I made a mistake, I had to bury my DC in the back yard....lol. the abxybw buttons are pretty straightforward, a little difficult with the small contacts, unless i go to the transistor on the back, which i may do. I remember there once was a link to somebodys site that had it all rewired, with memory slots for the headset! that was amazing! whoever made that stick...hat's off!

-steve-

[gamingnow.net]

Originally posted by Combo Master
I need to know where I can get convex buttons from!

the cheapest place is gamecabinetsinc.com i got mine from there, i ordered 7 yellow and 7 black buttons, and they came in a week. the stupid idiots didnt give me a tracking number for the buttons though, even though there was a tracking number for it on the box when it got here.

its cool though, i recommend them :p

[gamingnow.net]

Originally posted by stubburn
hey guys, I'm sure somebody may've gone over this by now, but the search function is down, and this thread is huge....

can anyone point out where to solder the mad katz pad on the xbox? I want to solder the L+R's, but there's three contact points, just wondering how you can tell which is the one to solder. Last time I made a mistake, I had to bury my DC in the back yard....lol. the abxybw buttons are pretty straightforward, a little difficult with the small contacts, unless i go to the transistor on the back, which i may do. I remember there once was a link to somebodys site that had it all rewired, with memory slots for the headset! that was amazing! whoever made that stick...hat's off!

-steve-

is this the pad youre looking at hacking?

http://members.cox.net/joysticks/hack_xbox_madcatz.html



:cool:

[stubburn]

Originally posted by gamingnow.net


is this the pad youre looking at hacking?

http://members.cox.net/joysticks/hack_xbox_madcatz.html



:cool:


yep, that's the one...damn, after reading it, maybe i don't wanna use the mad katz anymore...especially if it has a little trouble with multiple/combination button presses! damn, looks like it's out to buy another pad again, wish i hadn't hacked to shit this one already...:lame:

thanks man, you just saved me about a ton of work and probably a lifetime of frustration.

-steve-

[GreatLlama]

go get the xbox reflex joystick. you should be able to find it in any ebgames used because they are a piece of shit but the insides are perfect. Its a solderless job so all you have to do is hook up the wires. Ive used it in a stick i built for a friend and it worked flawlessly for him. Instructions are on the same page as the other one you have.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1209151#post1209151

Go to latest post.

[edmondantes]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=3260126583

8.50 a piece, not a bad deal eh?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by edmondantes
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=3260126583

8.50 a piece, not a bad deal eh?

That guy is smoking some fine ass crack or something. I can get them for $6.50 from Happs w/shipping it'd be around $10.something.

[FMJaguar]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO


That guy is smoking some fine ass crack or something. I can get them for $6.50 from Happs w/shipping it'd be around $10.something.

Currently they are 14.20 ea at happ before shipping, from time to time they go on sale for 6.99 but there's no telling when that will be.

[Ceramiclion]

Originally posted by FMJaguar


Currently they are 14.20 ea at happ before shipping, from time to time they go on sale for 6.99 but there's no telling when that will be.


Well i think i got myself a good deal at

ebay,http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3063364637&category=49230&rd=1

and if the spring doesn't feel like its supposed then i will buy some from therealbobroberts.com for a dollar each. problem solved!

[Kaistar]

I have a Competition joystick that's a bit too tall and a bit too loose... help? =/

[gamingnow.net]

you kaistar you from np? check pms!

[SmoothCat]

do u make duel stick ? cuz i just got a job got paid and need a stick bad post hear or pm me thanks

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by SmoothCat
do u make duel stick ? cuz i just got a job got paid and need a stick bad post hear or pm me thanks

Yes, but unfortunately I will not have the time to do so :(

I'm sure that maybe Armid1ll0 or maybe SNAAAKE or Dreadedfist can hook you up with one.

Time is not on my side and neither is the weather right now. :mad:

[TripleAgent]

I need some assisstance. I wired my Agetec with the PS2 Dual Shock 1 pcb a while ago, went perfect. Did another one today, and now, it acts like up and left are held permanently. I wired it the exact same way, the buttons work perfectly, and I can't see any bad soldering. Can anyone tell me what's wrong?

[gamingnow.net]

Originally posted by TripleAgent
I need some assisstance. I wired my Agetec with the PS2 Dual Shock 1 pcb a while ago, went perfect. Did another one today, and now, it acts like up and left are held permanently. I wired it the exact same way, the buttons work perfectly, and I can't see any bad soldering. Can anyone tell me what's wrong?
you mustve bridged on the copper for those 2 buttons

[TripleAgent]

Originally posted by gamingnow.net

you mustve bridged on the copper for those 2 buttons

I don't see how that's possible, they're not even near each other. I forgot to mention in the past post, all 4 directions work, just they do that at neutral. I've done a rewire, same result.

[gamingnow.net]

you should post a pic of the pcb hack

[TripleAgent]

no camera

[SNAAAAKE]

Originally posted by Ceramiclion
Hello, I know i posted this question in my Dc arcade post but no one is looking at it so, i decided to post it here too.
Well anyways, I just bought this 2 p360s off of ebay and I'd like to know whihc type they are. The guy claim they are old stock but have never been used, well i was just wondering if these are the old super p360s. If not what are they?
thank youhttp://i8.ebayimg.com/02/i/00/ed/2e/9f_1.JPG

Dude,who did you buy them from(Ebay SN?) ?

You have any extra?I am willing to buy.I personally prefer these over the happs p360 with hard spring.
I am SOOOO not used to hard sping,its too tight:bluu:

Thanks for your time :)

[Henaki]

A quick question.

I'm currently working on my own joystick. Now, there's nothing wrong with regular american sticks (bat style) but I really prefer the japanese (ball style) sticks. Could anyone recommend me a quality ball style stick?

Going into more detail:

I'm using a RedOctane case, I didn't like the buttons and stick, and the PCB was busted anyway, so just as far as recommendations go, exactly what buttons do you guys recommend, and what PS2 PCB would work best for a beginner like me.

EDIT:Feh, after more reading, I see that Competition Pushbuttons and Sanwas are probably the way to go :) I hope I don't mess up, and I'll (hopefully) post pics of the finished result. I really only need a PS2 PCB recommendation (easiest to hack).

[m3talslug]

Originally posted by SNAAAAKE


Dude,who did you buy them from(Ebay SN?) ?

You have any extra?I am willing to buy.I personally prefer these over the happs p360 with hard spring.
I am SOOOO not used to hard sping,its too tight:bluu:

Thanks for your time :)

The Wico P360s ship with a soft spring.

[SNAAAAKE]

Originally posted by m3talslug


The Wico P360s ship with a soft spring.

Hey hey ! :D
Thanks.I found 2 for myself.Anyway I got a question.
I can fit these on a competition stick right?
Just the p360 hub thing on happs comp ? :confused:

Whoever I am getting them from told me I can but making sure.Your new dual sticks looks HOT(as usual) ! Gotta love that comic one with ryu. :D

[m3talslug]

Originally posted by SNAAAAKE


Hey hey ! :D
Thanks.I found 2 for myself.Anyway I got a question.
I can fit these on a competition stick right?
Just the p360 hub thing on happs comp ? :confused:

Whoever I am getting them from told me I can but making sure.Your new dual sticks looks HOT(as usual) ! Gotta love that comic one with ryu. :D

I haven't tried fitting the Comps into the 360 base but my guess would probably be that it wouldn't work because the groove spacing for the e-clip is different.

Let me know if they fit.

Happy New year!

[Ceramiclion]

Originally posted by SNAAAAKE


Hey hey ! :D
Thanks.I found 2 for myself.Anyway I got a question.
I can fit these on a competition stick right?
Just the p360 hub thing on happs comp ? :confused:

Whoever I am getting them from told me I can but making sure.Your new dual sticks looks HOT(as usual) ! Gotta love that comic one with ryu. :D

Hey SNAAAAKE sorry i didn[t answer u earlier after a while i thought no one would answer my question...
Well I don't think i can put them on sale one is new (which I will use) the other one is used (which i might use).
I have heard of people using p360 conversion kits with competition joysticks. Isn't the buttom of the competition just like the ultimates?
Anyways once u try it out let me know how it all work so i can know if i have to get an ultimate with a hard spring or a competition with a hard spring.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Some new info for those who didn't already know. There is a site that you can build your desktop arcade stick using the flash interface they have on their site. You can't print out your design the exact size to actually apply it to your cardboard or draw over on wood for those that do that, but you can zoom in to get the right size to view on your page and then hit the prt/src button to take a snap of it and paste it using photoshop or mspaint. They have track balls, happs joysticks and the push buttons that you can drag and drop onto the interface. You can also draw the lines for it to including slants and what not. The actual size measurements are precise and you can have the grid on or off, but if you want to get the correct alignment you'll want to use the grid which happens to be exactly 1 inch per square.

The Interface Control Panel Designer is what it's called.

http://move360media.com/mame/icpd/Launch.htm

[Ceramiclion]

Well I honestly don't get why people do that...I have seen people do that in other threads, i think is annoying too. Why don't the mods ban him and erase that stupid message?

[GodEater]

since this thread got me galvanized to make my own stick I Thought it only right to post the finished product even though it is for the Virtua Fighter series. I do have plans on making another PC stick that will enable me to get my SF and versus series fix without cramping my fingers on my keyboard.

Seriously though, this thread rocks. It made my eyes bleed from exhaustion reading all of the pages but it was worth it. My stick is done and I love it.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~insertcoin/gear.htm

GE

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Love the small desing. Really compact.

[Ceramiclion]

Originally posted by GodEater
since this thread got me galvanized to make my own stick I Thought it only right to post the finished product even though it is for the Virtua Fighter series. I do have plans on making another PC stick that will enable me to get my SF and versus series fix without cramping my fingers on my keyboard.

Seriously though, this thread rocks. It made my eyes bleed from exhaustion reading all of the pages but it was worth it. My stick is done and I love it.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~insertcoin/gear.htm

GE

hey whihc type of paint did u use to make it look so shiny?

[GodEater]

I just used a high gloss black spray paint. Paint and sand, paint and sand, paint and sand. I've applied a coat of urethane since then to protect the paint.

GE

[fubarduck]

Does anyone happen to know where I could find wiring diagrams for wiring a joystick for a MAS Super Nova with DB15 ports? Most importantly, I need to know if it's possible to steal a +5v from the ports for Perfect 360s. If anyone can point me in the right direction, it would be much appreciated.

[Gaijinblaze]

Based on the vast quantity of information I've read from this thread... I'm definitely not capable of taking on the task of making a stick yet. But you guys are still so helpful.

Just wondering, has anyone hacked one of these PS1 sticks before? It seems that I have both lying around, and I might use one if I decide to make a stick.

Asciiware Arcade Stick (http://www.syntaxerror.nu/joy038.jpg)

Nyko Arcade Max (http://www.psillustrated.com/ge_ny_arcademax.jpg)

Would it be safer or easier to just use a PS1 controller because it's more commonly hacked? Also, are my questions making sense or are they worded incorrectly?

Thanks a lot to anyone who helps this horrible noob.

[GreatLlama]

Originally posted by Gaijinblaze
Based on the vast quantity of information I've read from this thread... I'm definitely not capable of taking on the task of making a stick yet. But you guys are still so helpful.

Just wondering, has anyone hacked one of these PS1 sticks before? It seems that I have both lying around, and I might use one if I decide to make a stick.

Asciiware Arcade Stick (http://www.syntaxerror.nu/joy038.jpg)

Nyko Arcade Max (http://www.psillustrated.com/ge_ny_arcademax.jpg)

Would it be safer or easier to just use a PS1 controller because it's more commonly hacked? Also, are my questions making sense or are they worded incorrectly?

Thanks a lot to anyone who helps this horrible noob.

Chances are the arcade controllers will be easier to hack because they are usually prewired which makes it a solderless job which is great for a first time builder. If you're not going to use those joysticks pop one open and see what the guts look like. Post a pic here we can probably tell you what to do with it.

[SNAAAAKE]

Originally posted by Ceramiclion


Hey SNAAAAKE sorry i didn[t answer u earlier after a while i thought no one would answer my question...
Well I don't think i can put them on sale one is new (which I will use) the other one is used (which i might use).
I have heard of people using p360 conversion kits with competition joysticks. Isn't the buttom of the competition just like the ultimates?
Anyways once u try it out let me know how it all work so i can know if i have to get an ultimate with a hard spring or a competition with a hard spring.

You might wanna trade for happs p360 ?
I need atleast 1.so if you want I will order a p360 for you and have them ship it directly to you and you send me one your super p360.

Maybe ?

:confused:

[Ceramiclion]

Yikes...
that is a damn good offer...
hmm..
Well the one i will not use, is used, but gosh for a p360...
I'll probably let u have the new one, hmmm.
eh...
I'm sold
EMail me and let me know what's up
Ben76_us at hotmail.com




Originally posted by SNAAAAKE


You might wanna trade for happs p360 ?
I need atleast 1.so if you want I will order a p360 for you and have them ship it directly to you and you send me one your super p360.

Maybe ?

:confused:

[Ceramiclion]

Hey
I was thinking...
I'll let you have both, but could u help me out by getting me some parts?
I need

12 GREEN convex competition buttons
1 GREEN competition joystick with a hard spring
and 2 miniature buttons (yellow top, black bottom)

and of course the P360 joystick...
With that I'll let you have conversion kits with the supers and everything. I haven't even touched them since I won't really start my project till later thos month or early february.
Does that sound good to you?
thank you

if anything PM at ceramiclion76 (that's yahoo messenger and AIM)






Originally posted by SNAAAAKE


You might wanna trade for happs p360 ?
I need atleast 1.so if you want I will order a p360 for you and have them ship it directly to you and you send me one your super p360.

Maybe ?

:confused:

[Gaijinblaze]

Originally posted by GreatLlama


Chances are the arcade controllers will be easier to hack because they are usually prewired which makes it a solderless job which is great for a first time builder. If you're not going to use those joysticks pop one open and see what the guts look like. Post a pic here we can probably tell you what to do with it.

Thank you for your concern, GreatLlama. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to borrow my friend's digital camera recently, but when I'm given the chance to do so, I'll definitely put a photograph up. By the way, there seems to be 2 PCBs in the Asciiware stick (I've semi-decided to use that stick)... does this mean anything significant? I've read all 120 pages (on default setting) and I don't remember seeing any reasoning behind this.

Thanks again.

[GreatLlama]

Originally posted by Gaijinblaze


Thank you for your concern, GreatLlama. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to borrow my friend's digital camera recently, but when I'm given the chance to do so, I'll definitely put a photograph up. By the way, there seems to be 2 PCBs in the Asciiware stick (I've semi-decided to use that stick)... does this mean anything significant? I've read all 120 pages (on default setting) and I don't remember seeing any reasoning behind this.

Thanks again.

Not really sure. Ive never enountered this before. But if you look at the pcbs one may be controlling the joystick and the other the buttons. Once you get some pics up it will be easier to see.

[DarkGiygas]

Hey, I'm trying to make a stick using an Agetec DC Stick button layout. I tried using one of the template's from the CD_Vision site, and just moving the weak attack buttons down and right slightly, to mimic the Agetec layout. Just a rough design, but the buttons seem a little too big for the thing.


Here's a pic of the layout:

http://server4.uploadit.org/files2/160104-Stick Art copy.jpg

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Here is what I do:

Use that template. Place the paper diagram on your control panel. Tape it down. Then using either an ice pick, small phillips screwdriver w/hammer make a mark in the center of each drilling hole for the joystick part. That way, when you removed the paper, the marks would be on the wood and you can just drill where the marks are. Should be only 5 markings for the joytick portion.
Now with the buttons, find a comfortable place where you would want the buttons. Remember, it's your stick and can as far or close to the joystick as you want. Next, slant the paper slightly to the left at a diagonal, but too much. This will help you get your japanese layout. Make sure though that it is still centered with the joytsick. Youd don't want any buttons falling below the joystick and it won't look right or feel right at all and you'll have to start over if you went a drilled the holes already. Now mark the far left buttons, and the far right buttons. When you done with that, lift the paper up a little so that the middle buttons are raised a little higher than the side buttons. Did you get that? Okay, now this should cause an arc. Mark the two middle buttons and your placement is done. Drill and be merry. Now you have a nice Japanese button setup. Remember you can have it as arched as you want it. The slant is how far you want. I'm just explaining the way I do mine. Once you find the perfect layout that works for you, make sure you make a dummy sample to use for you future sticks so you won't have to do the paper tracing thing again using some spare wood or whatever. You can place it over another panel and just trace the holes, or clamp it over the panel and drilve throught he existing holes onto the next panel. Easy as that.

[masterofking]

I have a quick question what kind of wires do you use to wire
a stick:D

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Here you go, for the one who was using the PS Arcade pcb and those wanting to see a diagram.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by masterofking
I have a quick question what kind of wires do you use to wire
a stick:D

.22 gauge connection wires from Radio Shack or somewhere else. I buy 100 ft .22 gauge solid/stranded wires from Radio Shack for $5 roughly. You can buy only 30ft, but's the same price. Don't know why though. That's why I buy the larget size they have available.

[DarkGiygas]

Thanks for the help. I know what you mean, but I wanted the buttons to be in the layout they are now. It's the exact same as the layout on the Agetec stick, where the center of the weak buttons is in between the other buttons, and the center of the stick is at the same center as the bottom row of buttons. Its just that when I put my fingers over the diagram at 100% size, the buttons seem too big.

[Dreaded Fist]

if there is a fry's near you, go there. They they have 26 gauge wires , 100ft for abotu the same price. But it's thinner and easier to work with.


And for those who were looking to hack a Dualshock pad, and went out and got one just to open it up and discover that there's a piece of thinass plastic connecting to the main pcb. The traces are raelly thin, and soldering on it is pretty much not possble. BUT, it all trace back to a group of pins on the main pcb. The thin plastic sheet can just be pulled out. When looking down on the pins, from the top. The pins should be on the top right. and the dualshock sticks should be on the other side now.

here are the labels for each pin.

r2 /\ X Start ? Left Right L1

R1 O [ ] Sel Ground Down Up L2

I don't know what the "?" is, but my guess is that it's the power(5v). Since i was hacking a non p360 stick, i didn't bother to test that pin. The pins are placed pretty close together so you'll need a small iron to work with. Good luck.

[Gaijinblaze]

Originally posted by GreatLlama


Not really sure. Ive never enountered this before. But if you look at the pcbs one may be controlling the joystick and the other the buttons. Once you get some pics up it will be easier to see.

Whoops... It's just a small board used for the start and select buttons. Sorry if I confused you.

Apparently I will have to solder, because someone mentioned earlier in the thread that if the buttons use "rubber nipple" looking things, then you'd have to solder... plus there's no wires going to the buttons at all. My question is, how should I remove the wires that are soldered to the joystick's microswitches? (I think it's the microswitches). I'm just really nervous and I don't want to wreck anything. Then I'd be able to remove the PCB and put a pic up.

Sorry if I'm getting repetitive. It seemed like it was pretty simple when I was reading about it, and now my mind is blank when it's time for me to actually do it myself.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist


And for those who were looking to hack a Dualshock pad, and went out and got one just to open it up and discover that there's a piece of thinass plastic connecting to the main pcb. The traces are raelly thin, and soldering on it is pretty much not possble. BUT, it all trace back to a group of pins on the main pcb. The thin plastic sheet can just be pulled out. When looking down on the pins, from the top. The pins should be on the top right. and the dualshock sticks should be on the other side now.

here are the labels for each pin.

r2 /\ X Start ? Left Right L1

R1 O [ ] Sel Ground Down Up L2

I don't know what the "?" is, but my guess is that it's the power(5v). Since i was hacking a non p360 stick, i didn't bother to test that pin. The pins are placed pretty close together so you'll need a small iron to work with. Good luck.

That ? is probably the select button. Anyway, do you mean the Dualshock 2? Because that's the only pcb that I've seen with the plastic strip, then again I haven't opended up a Dualshock PSX controller before.

[Dreaded Fist]

it was a psx dualshock rotend, and "?" is nto select either, cus I already listed another point as select. Sel=select :p

So i have no idea, it very well could be 5v.

[armad1ll0]

Try "mode"

[GreatLlama]

Originally posted by Gaijinblaze


Whoops... It's just a small board used for the start and select buttons. Sorry if I confused you.

Apparently I will have to solder, because someone mentioned earlier in the thread that if the buttons use "rubber nipple" looking things, then you'd have to solder... plus there's no wires going to the buttons at all. My question is, how should I remove the wires that are soldered to the joystick's microswitches? (I think it's the microswitches). I'm just really nervous and I don't want to wreck anything. Then I'd be able to remove the PCB and put a pic

Sorry if I'm getting repetitive. It seemed like it was pretty simple when I was reading about it, and now my mind is blank when it's time for me to actually do it myself.

If they're soldered on then you can do one of two things. One you can desolder them or you can just cut them off. I cant see what it looks like but if its similar to any other one it shouldnt be a problem just to cut them right at the microswitch. You should be able to use the wires that go to the microswitch for the buttons. If you dont think you can do it i would be more than willing to help you out.

[GreatLlama]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
it was a psx dualshock rotend, and "?" is nto select either, cus I already listed another point as select. Sel=select :p

So i have no idea, it very well could be 5v.

test it with a multimeter

[SNAAAAKE]

SeriesH dualshock pad comes with a PCB inside which is fairly simple to hack.The red wire is 5+ on seriesH dualshock pads..

Noobs ! :D

[Dreaded Fist]

OK I'm not saying that I couldn't find the 5v or have problems finding it. If that was neededfor the current mod, I would have just solder to the red wire coming from the plug. I'm saying that i was hacking the dualshock to work with a COMPETITION stick so I didn't bother to find out what that "?" joint was. And I'd rather to just disassemble and solder to the rows of pins anyways, since it's much cleaner, and easier to mount, than having 2 pcbs in there.

On a different note, poeple who take their stick out alot and leave it in their car or where it's hot. I know a guy who does this a lot and the red part on the cherry switch ( I assume because it was painted) melted into the plunger part of the button and the button became sticky. So when you press it and let go, it takes awhile for the button to come up fully. If you need to store it somewhere hot for an extended period of time, just store it upside down so the plunger doesn't touch the microswitch.

[armad1ll0]

that type of heat will warp large sections of the stick actually. 1st to go is the acrylic/lexan/plexig...

[Gaijinblaze]

I finally have the PCB photographs, courtesy of DarkGiygas. I hope GreatLlama and others can forgive my lack of punctuality with the pics. :confused:

In the first pic, the wires coming out at the left are the ones that went to the joystick. There were additional black wires connecting each switch to the one before it, and connecting one to the PCB. That would be the ground connection for the joystick, correct? But see, there were no wires going to the buttons, so how would I determine how to make a ground connection for them? Does that question make sense?

The button layout was as follows (they pushed on the black swirl-looking things):

L1 Square Triangle R1

L2 X Circle R2


In the second pic (I apologize if it's too blurry), select is on the left, start on the right.

ASCIIware Arcade Stick PCB (http://server5.uploadit.org/files/DarkGiygas-PICT0056.jpg)
ASCIIware Arcade Stick PCB2 (http://server5.uploadit.org/files/DarkGiygas-PICT0057.JPG)

And one more question... For a person who wants a joystick that is not too different in feel from a ball-top Sanwa (not me, by the way), which of the 3 main Happ sticks is closest to it? By appearance I'd say the super, but I can't make any judgments on functionality.

My most sincere thanks beforehand to anyone who helps.

[armad1ll0]

None of the Happ sticks are similar at all to a Sanwa/Japanese style stick.

The basic fact is that the actuator is round in a Japanese stick and it sits generally in a squareish whole that restricts it's range of movement.

The only reason that your super looks like a sawna is because commonly Sanwas use lever actuators on it's microswitches but there are Sanwa micro bodies that have the typical microswitch like a Competition etc.

None of them feel or work like a Sanwa/Japanese stick (super, competition, or ultimate)

Arm~

[GreatLlama]

Originally posted by Gaijinblaze
I finally have the PCB photographs, courtesy of DarkGiygas. I hope GreatLlama and others can forgive my lack of punctuality with the pics. :confused:

In the first pic, the wires coming out at the left are the ones that went to the joystick. There were additional black wires connecting each switch to the one before it, and connecting one to the PCB. That would be the ground connection for the joystick, correct? But see, there were no wires going to the buttons, so how would I determine how to make a ground connection for them? Does that question make sense?

The button layout was as follows (they pushed on the black swirl-looking things):

L1 Square Triangle R1

L2 X Circle R2


In the second pic (I apologize if it's too blurry), select is on the left, start on the right.

ASCIIware Arcade Stick PCB (http://server5.uploadit.org/files/DarkGiygas-PICT0056.jpg)
ASCIIware Arcade Stick PCB2 (http://server5.uploadit.org/files/DarkGiygas-PICT0057.JPG)

And one more question... For a person who wants a joystick that is not too different in feel from a ball-top Sanwa (not me, by the way), which of the 3 main Happ sticks is closest to it? By appearance I'd say the super, but I can't make any judgments on functionality.

My most sincere thanks beforehand to anyone who helps.

Ok im gonna break it down barney style, the wires going from your joystick is most likely a red wire (or some color wire) and a black wire, the black wire being your ground. For the buttons instead of using wires they just have positive and negative contacts. If you look at the contacts( swirling things) you'll notice that one side connects to the rest of the other contacts( swirling things) that would be your common ground for your buttons. Usually most PCBs for controllers have one ground. Some arent this way. To test this i would highly recommend getting a multimeter and doing a continuity test. For those who dont know what that is you set your multimeter to measure resistance, (if yours has a setting to let out sound use that) you take one lead and put it on one contact, then with your other lead you put it on the contact you want check. Your reading should be 0.00-0.08 if they are connected. If they arent then you will get a reading of 100.0 M ohm. I hope this helps. If not ill take the picture and illustrate it for you.

[Gaijinblaze]

Thanks for the help guys.

Armadillo, I had recently read your tutorial on top-mounting a Japanese stick to use it in wood. Could I substitute this by just using thinner wood and mounting it underneath? (1/4" or 3/8"). Or would the shaft of the stick still be too short? Aren't the more recent Sanwas a little bit taller anyway? Sorry if this is a foolish question.

GreatLlama, I'm not trying to bother you but I think an illustration on the pic would help. I looked at the PCB, and I think the 2 bottom circles on each contact are the ground, and the top 2 are the "hot" connections. But in all honesty, I just made that up based on what I saw, and it's anything but reliable.

I shouldn't have much more questions because all my old ones were answered while reading the thread. Sorry if I'm the only noob left in this forum. :(

[GreatLlama]

Originally posted by Gaijinblaze




GreatLlama, I'm not trying to bother you but I think an illustration on the pic would help. I looked at the PCB, and I think the 2 bottom circles on each contact are the ground, and the top 2 are the "hot" connections. But in all honesty, I just made that up based on what I saw, and it's anything but reliable.
:(

Not a problem. Here is the illustration. From the looks of it the top two contacts are your "hot" connections, and the bottom two are your ground connections. Take a multimeter and do a continuity test on the points I pointed out. Example: Put on lead on the first ground and take the other lead and put it on the other ground i pointed out. You should have whats called a short.( they're connected) Scrape that black shit off with something sharp to expose the copper underneath. If you need anything else feel free to ask.
:cool:

[Ceramiclion]

Hello.
I am thinking of using the Topmax PCB to make my arcade stick. I heard its a solderless hack and considering ts an arcade stick it won't have any delay problem and all that. If anyone has found instructions on how to do the hack it would help me greatly. Actually a picture of the PCB will be fine since i Just want to see if the PCB suits my needs.
thank you

[armad1ll0]

Originally posted by SNAAAAKE
SeriesH dualshock pad comes with a PCB inside which is fairly simple to hack.The red wire is 5+ on seriesH dualshock pads..

Noobs ! :D

Actually it doesn't matter which pad because you are coming hot off your port and not the pad itself. You ARE all talking about the cord now.

+5V is for USB adaptors and not the consoles
All PlayStations fire up the pads at +3.5V

why call them noobs, snake?:bluu:

[Richard]

Actually, here's a really anal and pointless question that I'm simply curious about... Is there a standard(s) for the 6 button colors? Many of the cabinets here in the UK are not original official ones (they are random ones with different boards).

I've seen photos of SF2CE where the pairs of Light/Middle/Heavy buttons are Red/White/Blue respectively, and some for SSF2 where they are Red/Blue/Green. I've also seen Alpha games with yellow on them...

So is there a universal agreement on this? And if so, does it depend on country or whatever?

[SNAAAAKE]

Originally posted by Richard
Actually, here's a really anal and pointless question that I'm simply curious about... Is there a standard(s) for the 6 button colors? Many of the cabinets here in the UK are not original official ones (they are random ones with different boards).

I've seen photos of SF2CE where the pairs of Light/Middle/Heavy buttons are Red/White/Blue respectively, and some for SSF2 where they are Red/Blue/Green. I've also seen Alpha games with yellow on them...

So is there a universal agreement on this? And if so, does it depend on country or whatever?

There is no rule :lol:
But I personally like yellow green blue (what I have on my panel now)

[armad1ll0]

Takashi Kubozono-san (father of the US Capcom arcade cabs...designer engineer etc...) originally designed those SF cabs with the 6 buttons in red white and blue.

Presently it's common for them to use Yellow, Green and Blue to play off of the Capcom colors. Snake is correct on this one.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Very interesting (about the color concept). Thanks Arm.

[armad1ll0]

and he chuckles at the fact that US players prefer Happ style controls vs Japanese sticks. He's about 5'3" and has a perm that makes him look like he's got a Fro... the man is super smart though...

He also worked with the designs of most of the US arcade cabs including cabs as recent with Hanaho... which used to build all of Capcom's machines.

[blakbuzzrd]

Having slugged my way through the Sanwa site (as translated by Babel Fish), I wondered if anyone could answer a question about the various Sanwa joystick models.

Sanwa makes the JLF series joysticks (JLF-TP-8Y used in the Versus City Virtua Fighter machines, and by Catch22 in his joysticks), and another series, the JLW.

armad1ll0 clued me in that Ultimarc's J-stick is a modified JLW stick (longer handle, swapped griddle, etc.).

So what *are* the functional differences between the JLW and the JLF series? Has anyone out there played with both? Is there a reason to go with the JLF for fighting games over the JLW, beyond the fact that VF4 machines have the former?

Thanks!

[armad1ll0]

They are both going to feel virtualy the same in gameplay. All of the sanwas feel basically the same underneath. Other than the flash time... AFAIK

The only real difference is the way that these mount and the body shape etc. JLWs can switch to 4 way mode very easily with the rotation of the disk underneath and retightening of the restrictor.

The other main difference is that a JLF activates on the little plundger of the microswitch and not a lever like the JLW's. Basically its kinda like the difference between a Happ Super and the Competition. The differences in the Hap come from the shape of the actuator handle etc and not how the microswitch gets pressed.

[acesmith5]

Does anyone know if you can just buy the springs that go in the sticks? (like for a comp stick)

I recently bought some new comp sticks and they don't feel like the ones I bought 6 mos ago. My guess is the spring is different. I looked at Homedepot but couldn't find any kind of springs there.

[armad1ll0]

Yes, Happ sells the springs but they'll rape you on shipping even if the spring is only $.50 I stock some springs also...

[TrackZ]

I haven't posted on here in quite a while, but I think we may be building some new sticks soon. I've done a major overhaul on our website so I'm reposting for those that might not know about it. Tons of detailed hacking and building info for your custom stick project.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jdpyle1/index.htm

[Gaijinblaze]

Hey... back with a few more questions. I didn't plan on having many more but now I have a question about the actual enclosure.

I plan on putting hinges on just in case something happens internally. However, would hinge screws fit into wood that is 1/2" or 5/8" thick? I've tried to draw a diagram in MS Paint. Where would be the best location for hinges? The red things are possibly places for it.

GreatLlama: I know I shouldn't be bugging you about the same damn PCB but... I would only need to solder one circle thing (out of the 2 hot connection circles) per contact, right? And for the ground, should I just pick any contact, start the ground there and daisy-chain the rest of the buttons? Sorry if this is obvious..

Trackz: Good to see you posting again... I have a small question though. I remember someone asking you if 3rd Strike had lag while doing EX moves (for your official DC controller hack). Did you try it out yet? I'd really like to know.

Thanks everyone.

[Ceramiclion]

Hello does anyone know a link on how to hack an enforcer arcade stick? Is it possible?
PLease if u know abut this let me know
thank you.
armad1llo, rotendo. snaaake enlighten this noob!:cool:

[armad1ll0]

I'm sure that it's possible but I don't think that it's a first choice PCB because I believe that those buttons are rubber nipple type instead of microswitch type. Those types of sticks push down on a big rubber nipple so it's similar to button controllers. If that' the case then the PCB is going to be large and not very elegant. The larger PCBs will limit mounting locations.

I always like first party stuff but many of the 3rd party controllers are not bad as well, but a Joystick for a Joystick??? I think that it doesn't make sense... although people use reflex sticks for arcade controls cause they can't figure out the Microsoft pad.

[Dreaded Fist]

Originally posted by Gaijinblaze
Trackz: Good to see you posting again... I have a small question though. I remember someone asking you if 3rd Strike had lag while doing EX moves (for your official DC controller hack). Did you try it out yet? I'd really like to know.

Thanks everyone.

It does have a lag, when you press L/R with another button, it'll register as L/R ~Another button.

Your best bet is to just use 3rd party pads with 6 face buttons. Avoid innovation pads if you have other choices since they tend to short out easily.

[Ceramiclion]

Okay i will take ur word for it, I went out to buy some quantum pads. those seem to have a small PBC and well they're alright. I made a joystick with the first party dreamcast pad and i was not satisfied. Not only do i hve trouble playing Street fighter 3 games (third strike or double impact) is hard to do zangief spin move or dash fowars or jump high using all 3 p or 3 k in mvc, and well the idea of a delay kinda makes me wonder if i could play better without it.

[GodEater]

I finished off my SF style stick on Friday. I was going to wait until my photos got developed to show them here but they came out badly so web cam to the rescue.

for the record this stick took just over 6 hours to make start to finish and that includes the time to make the underlay.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~insertcoin/6%20hour%20stick01.gif

http://home.cogeco.ca/~insertcoin/6%20hour%20stick%2002.gif

http://home.cogeco.ca/~insertcoin/6%20hour%20stick%2003.gif

I think I like this style better than my first, ultra-compact stick.

GE

[armad1ll0]

Nice craftsmenship.

What did you use for start and select. They seem smaller than the happ competitions but not exactly Japanese 24 mm sanwa buttons.

[GodEater]

Thanks, I Think it came out quite nicely.

I bought the start and select buttons from Happ; it is their "momentary contact" button offering. Interesting thing about these buttons is that they are built by Sanwa. Flip them upside down and there is the Sanwa name.

I don't understand it myself but I'm happy with it. I'm hoping it might turn into Happ re-selling Sawna items but I doubt it.

GE

[armad1ll0]

Thats good to know.

yeah, they must be reselling Sanwa parts. From the dimmensions it doesn't seem like the regular sized japanese buttons. I think that what they are selling is what Sanwa would call their OBSM-24. It's basically the screw on type of Sanwa button of the 24mm size instead of 30mm. Too bad, it could have been a really good find for Sanwa buttons. They are so expensive from other sources.

[showryeyoucan]

wow! they have some sanwa 24 buttons! It's better than nothing, at least you can use them as start/select buttons.

[stubburn]

I know that the ps2 madkatz pad is simple to hack, but has anyone had any troubles using it through converters? I hacked a madkatz pcb, but the stick wouldn't work with my MagicBox usb converter for my pc, or the total control converter for the Xbox, but works fine going into a PS2...any ideas why? i was thinking that the male end of the wire had too much plastic, not letting all the contacts hit within the converters. either that, or the madkatz is a piece of shit, or the converters are.

i'm also curious about hacking the new pelican pads, either the neon one(you'll know it when you see it) or the standard see through one. I tried one, and the contacts looked a little strange. I may have shorted the pad out, since start was the only working button, so I'm going to try it one more time.

any other ps guts you guys know of that are compatible with converters?

and has anyone figured out how to hack Xbox pads to give you L+R without using the reflex joystick? only periphirals around here are madkatz, type S, and the makers of the reflex, can't remember manufacturer, but thier pads.

any help would be awesome....

thanks.

[armad1ll0]

This is why I say Sony is the only way to go when you want to do it right...

[Toodles]

Hi all, looking to see if anyone has come across small pcb's for Dreamcast controllers. Physically small pcb, with support for 6 buttons digitally (no analog. I don't care if button 5 + 6 are L + R or C + Z, as long as they are digital and not analog). Doesn't have to be third party, and doesn't have to have a VMU slot, and I am not afraid to solder. The PCB in an Agetec stick would work, but I don't want to destroy my beloved Agetec, and they can get quite pricey on ebay. I was hoping someone could point out one of the many piece of crap fighting sticks for the DC that had a small pcb suitable for hacking. Or had a busted up Agetec they would gut for me.

If your curious, the PCB will be going in a small project box to attach to the stick via a DB 15 connector, and would like it as small and neat as possible.

[stubburn]

Originally posted by armad1ll0
This is why I say Sony is the only way to go when you want to do it right...

how did you manage to solder to those new dual shock 2's??!!? i see the contacts, but they're so micro! while i was testing it, i'd tapped ground to those points, and no action...i'm going to have to look into those again, seeing as that 3rd parties suck for converters. well, madkatz anyways, the pelican worked fine with converters.

[showryeyoucan]

Originally posted by stubburn


how did you manage to solder to those new dual shock 2's??!!? i see the contacts, but they're so micro! while i was testing it, i'd tapped ground to those points, and no action...i'm going to have to look into those again, seeing as that 3rd parties suck for converters. well, madkatz anyways, the pelican worked fine with converters.

The original dual shocks for playstation have the traditional soldering points, and it works fine with magicbox. Some of the newer "psone" dual shocks have the same plastic pad that the ps2 dual shocks have.

[Dreaded Fist]

if it has the little plastic screen that you can't solder to, you can solder directly to the pins that the plastic screen connects to.
I posted the labellings a few posts back.

The only reason why the dualshock 2 can't be hack is because of all the analog buttons.

Yes I too, prefer the sony pads.:)

[stubburn]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
if it has the little plastic screen that you can't solder to, you can solder directly to the pins that the plastic screen connects to.
I posted the labellings a few posts back.

The only reason why the dualshock 2 can't be hack is because of all the analog buttons.

Yes I too, prefer the sony pads.:)

so are you saying if i was to hack any new 1st party pad, go for the psONE pad instead of the dualshock 2? if that's the case, i'll run out and get one of those tomorrow...
I'm still shocked you were able to solder to those pins...you guys are master solder-ers...(wth, is that a word?)

thanks for the help...now about the xbox hacking....

[armad1ll0]

the Dualshock2 can be hacked depending on which series. I'm working on one now as I've been mapping out the "film" (not screen) pins.

for Dualshocks. Most of the PSOne dualshocks are series H. This is the one I look for and sometimes can even get used ones for as low as $7. I'm finishing up a stick with this pad right now and I hooked up the Mode button and even the LED.

PICS WILL FOLLOW. I've been thinking about writing a full tutorial on how to hack the PSOne Dualshock Series H pad but the info can be found on my site. When done correctly it should look something like this.

http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/images/Tutorials/Dualshock_H.jpg

You'll notice that the board is also labled from 1-16.
1 - mode change (didn't wire up in the shot)
2 - Joy Left (peach)
3 - Joy Down
4 - Joy Right
5 - Joy UP
6 - Start
7 - Select
8 - L2
9 - R2
10 - L1
11 - R1
12 - <| Button
13 - O Button
14 - X Button
15 - [] Button
16 - Ground (black)

[armad1ll0]

DualShock 1:
1) they are just plain cheaper. Even new for $20
2) most of the new PSOne (white plug) ones are Series H which is easier to hack.
3) you can hack the ribbon cable or the back of the pressure pins for the ribbon cable socket.
4) forward and backward compatible to PSOne and PS2.
5) the white plug is kinda cute.
6) Grey plugs/cords look kinda boring.

DualShock 2:
1) People will say, "wow how did you hack that one?" Shows Skillz...
2) the black Sony cord/plug is just way cool.
3) forward and backward compatible to both consoles.
4) much more costly at $25 and less are used.

Additional note to the previous post.

These hacks are hard. Not everyone can do them and you have to be really carefull as the pins are so close that you'll be prone to shorting two pins together. I've done 6+ of these I had to fix one slight soldering error on may lastest project last night.

Now if I can only source the 1.5V blue LED's for the controller PCB ... it would be really cool... I WANT TO CHANGE MY PAD TO A BLUE LED!!!

[stubburn]

Originally posted by armad1ll0


for Dualshocks. Most of the PSOne dualshocks are series H. This is the one I look for and sometimes can even get used ones for as low as $7. I'm finishing up a stick with this pad right now and I hooked up the Mode button and even the LED.

PICS WILL FOLLOW. I've been thinking about writing a full tutorial on how to hack the PSOne Dualshock Series H pad but the info can be found on my site. When done correctly it should look something like this.


i hate the newest ps/ps2 controllers with a passion! with the plastic film that are the contacts with the buttons, that relay the circuit to the board. I hate that new design, it makes hacking them a pain in the ass. I can't seem to find any decent first party pads, since they're all the new ones....erg. I'm just going to have to scour some random funcoland in the middle of nowhere.

have you tried hacking the newest controllers? i can where the signal would be going when i take off that film with the relays, is it possible to solder to those points and have them work?

[armad1ll0]

Yes, exactly. That's what DF was talking about. There are pins that push down onto the film and there are solder points going to these pins that you can solder to.

You can't blame Sony for not making a better pad for you to hack.

[stubburn]

Originally posted by armad1ll0


You can't blame Sony for not making a better pad for you to hack.

I can, and I will.:D :)

I figure, they make shitty hardware anyways, the least they could do is make pads I can hack..lol.

[armad1ll0]

I've posted pics of my latest DualShock series H hack/stick on my website. You've seen how I hack it but I wanted to show full implimentation.

[TGC]

If anyone can help me out...

I need a template that's like this:
10 button layout:
-4 button top
-4 button bottom
-about 1 1/2 inches up, the start and select button next to each other.

if someone has it, thx in advance.

[armad1ll0]

their template won't work for you control panel since everyone has their own designs. Most of which are based off of some arcade layout (or should be)

The thing is that since no one knows the dimensions of the top of your joystick, it's pointless.

I like to keep to these points.

1) I like to keep the two centered hand positions based on the joystick and the middle of the cluster of capcom 6 buttons.

2) I like to keep the capcom 6 on the present 1 5/8" grid for larger sticks and the older 1 1/2" grid for smaller areas that you're working with.

3) the japanese layout (see namco PSX) is good for sticks based off of 6 buttons and a Sanwa stick but not exactly for 8 gameplay buttons.

4) I don't like the 8 buttons in a perfect grid for the PlayStation based sticks. There is no natural Neo-Geo button.

other than these factors I drill them accordingly to what my customers feel is comfortable, asthetic and familiar to their favorite games. If you only play Capcom games then it's easy. If you play 4 button, VF or GGX games then you have a challenge to layout something smart for all of them.

[showryeyoucan]

Originally posted by armad1ll0
I've posted pics of my latest DualShock series H hack/stick on my website. You've seen how I hack it but I wanted to show full implimentation.

-edit-
is there anyway to tell if a psone dualshock is series H, other than looking on the back of the controller? The reason I ask is because I want to buy new ones but the packaging doesn't allow you to see the back of the controller.

[armad1ll0]

The new one with the white round plug often are Series H.
Flip it over and look, you'll see a letter by the made in china printing/molding.

[showryeyoucan]

Originally posted by armad1ll0
The new one with the white round plug often are Series H.
Flip it over and look, you'll see a letter by the made in china printing/molding.

I assumed that the back would be obstructed by the packaging, so this works out nicely!

I am curious as to why you prefer to wire the series H to the points by the ribbon connector instead of doing it dreamcast style and removing the black stuff. I'm not doubting your method whatsoever (because you know a hell of a lot more than me), I'm just wondering why.

One more quick question- I noticed that MAS systems will simply add another PCB in the stick if someone requests multiple systems. Is this poor practice or does it work just fine? For example, if I wire in a saturn and psone to a single stick will this have any negative consequences down the road?

[armad1ll0]

Sometimes you can go through the used section and pic up a controller this way. Most of the round PSOne controllers were Series H. I believe that some of the newer ones use the film.

I like going to where the ribbon cable was soldered down cause it's easy and I don't have to map the traces and also go out and dremmel off the black crap. It's just easier. Oddly series H digitals also have little exposed dots of copper to easily solder to.

I've never tried to wire up multiple controller PCBs at once. I just find it unelegant and messy sounding in theory. Adaptors seem a more elegant solution so in theory I just don't like it so never tried. I can't forsee any problems though.

[acesmith5]

When Mas sell's a stick for more than one system they are not increasing the number of PCBs. They have one big PCB and if you request more than one system they just add the Dreamcast or Ps2 or whatever chip onto the board and the cord to plug into the system. That way the inside doesn't get too messy.

[armad1ll0]

They also use adaptors for PSX boards. They seem to have multiple solutions and are not completely consistent in this area.

[Rising Knuckle]

Ok I'm going to at least attempt to make my own stick. I have some crap to solder and a few PCB's hanging around. Just wanted to ask a few questions cause I think if get all the material needed it will give me some motivation to take a stab at it.

Ok so from what I read Competion and supers are the best sticks to go for (I dont really care for P360's). Could anybody guide me on which one to use as my first stick?

Also a question on the buttons, what type of buttons would complement the sticks? If somebody could please give me the pros and cons on the different types of buttons that would be great.

[Toodles]

I've heard a lot more recommendations for competition sticks than supers, and I love my comp stick. The pictures of supers I have seen show they use levers; the shaft moves the lever which pressed the contact on the microswitch. I prefer the competition method, which has a plastic block actuator on the bottom, which presses the contact on the switches directly. Matter of opinion, but my vote is for competitions.

For buttons, you are probably going to choose between ultimate and competition buttons; construction appears the same, with the main difference being concave (ultimate) vs convex (competition) plungers. Consensus says to avoid the buttons with vertical mounted microswitches. Both comp and ult buttons are reliable and solid, and clicky. ult buttons have the usualy USA style concave tops, and comps look more like convex jap buttons, but retain the USA style solid click feel. You may want the ultimates since they are the ones used in most arcades that cater to the general public instead of serious fighters. I prefer the competitions because the buttons feel less obstrusive; easier to access all of the buttons you need.

So, the answer to your question is that it is all opinion only, and work basically the same. I vote for comp sticks and comp buttons.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by Rising Knuckle
Ok I'm going to at least attempt to make my own stick. I have some crap to solder and a few PCB's hanging around. Just wanted to ask a few questions cause I think if get all the material needed it will give me some motivation to take a stab at it.

Ok so from what I read Competion and supers are the best sticks to go for (I dont really care for P360's). Could anybody guide me on which one to use as my first stick?

Also a question on the buttons, what type of buttons would complement the sticks? If somebody could please give me the pros and cons on the different types of buttons that would be great.

Joysticks are pretty much a preference thing for each person. I prefer competitions and ultimate js w/hard spring over supers any day.

Go w/ comp buttons over anything else or horizontal pb rather than ultimate pb which are too hard and stick out too high.

Then don't forget the button layout or control panel layout.

Good luck :)

[showryeyoucan]

I already posted this picture over at virtuafighter.com, but I'll post it here anyways. I made these two sticks using Catch22's guide (http://members.cox.net/vtomas5/joystick_builder/gallery/index.htm) because I think he makes the best custom sticks. You can see his examples at http://members.cox.net/vtomas5/joystick_builder/gallery/index.htm .

One stick is a japanese style stick with sanwa parts and the other one is american with happ parts (need to get some different color buttons), but I used japanese button config for both.

I used sony ps dualshocks in both because I found out it was possible from you guys here (series H!). I tried making an underlay by ripping the art from GBA SSF2X, but it didn't turn out as well as I hoped (I'm a photoshop beginner). They are slightly different, as I tried different arrangements, but I'm probably going to swap them for something else soon. I'm going to start some new sticks soon because I have a lot to improve on!

http://members.aol.com/salamz/version1whiteb.jpg
http://members.aol.com/salamz/version1blackb.jpg
http://members.aol.com/salamz/version1black.jpg

[armad1ll0]

Very nice work and construction. For some reason I really do prefer a slanted top. 10 deg is about right.

It's obvious that you prefer the flat top Sega/Ascii/Agetec style, but that's just a difference in opinion.

Nice use of 24mm buttons though....

I personally think that although Catch22's sticks are superb that his underlay support/construction of supporting the lexan top is a bit weak. I think that routing out the top of the case for the Sanwa plate is the strongest way of supporting the stick and the Lexan. Laying in ribs is just a wast of time making sure everything fits perfectly.

Then again that's just construction perspectives so I can't fault him.

[FMJaguar]

Does a sanwa need support? Aren't the normal control panels for them just metal plates housed in molded plastic cases? I wouldn't think a 'top' is really nessecary as long as the lexan is secured to the wood frame somehow (maybe with wood blocks?

[showryeyoucan]

Originally posted by armad1ll0


I personally think that although Catch22's sticks are superb that his underlay support/construction of supporting the lexan top is a bit weak. I think that routing out the top of the case for the Sanwa plate is the strongest way of supporting the stick and the Lexan. Laying in ribs is just a wast of time making sure everything fits perfectly.


Actually it's extremely strong, and after I secured my inner frame to the base it was able to support my entire body weight. You use two levels of "rafters", use wood glue and screws to hold things together, and make sure things are properly supported. Routing the top is by no means an inferior solution, I just don't have those tools. Also remember that the sticks he uses, and the one I used, are sanwas that do not have the metal mounting plate- so routing wouldn't be easy.

I don't have the slanted top simply because I play on a table in front of a couch- and the slant isn't necessary. If I ever want to play with the slant I could just adjust the feet under the base.

Does a sanwa need support? Aren't the normal control panels for them just metal plates housed in molded plastic cases? I wouldn't think a 'top' is really nessecary as long as the lexan is secured to the wood frame somehow (maybe with wood blocks?

Yes, they do need support. Underneath the lexan is a "rafter system" that supports everything, and you can see it on catch's tutorial.

[FMJaguar]

Originally posted by showryeyoucan


Yes, they do need support. Underneath the lexan is a "rafter system" that supports everything, and you can see it on catch's tutorial.

When I read the section my response was: wtf is all that wood doing there. Let me rephrase the question: when i take apart an agetec, i see a metal plate and the case. The ascii sticks don't appear to have much more than that. The namco is pretty much just a metal enclosure with holes. But his stick has some maze of wood in there, and noone has been able to tell me what the reasoning is for having it. It looks really well thought out but it's not explained very well.

If you use plexi instead, i can see that it might crack or not hold up. There are also varying strengths of polycarbonate (branded as lexan/lucite/etc..), so maybe a stronger piece would work better.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

awesome work on those sticks. Looks really great.

[Dc1]

can anybody tell me how to wire the dreamcast joystick to the button on a stick

I'm making my own dreamcast arcade stick but I do not know the spots on the standard dreamcast to solder the wires for the bottons to

can anybody tell me the spots and if you have a picture that'll be great

thanks

[showryeyoucan]

Originally posted by FMJaguar


When I read the section my response was: wtf is all that wood doing there. Let me rephrase the question: when i take apart an agetec, i see a metal plate and the case. The ascii sticks don't appear to have much more than that. The namco is pretty much just a metal enclosure with holes. But his stick has some maze of wood in there, and noone has been able to tell me what the reasoning is for having it. It looks really well thought out but it's not explained very well.

If you use plexi instead, i can see that it might crack or not hold up. There are also varying strengths of polycarbonate (branded as lexan/lucite/etc..), so maybe a stronger piece would work better.

It can be confusing, so let me try and explain it better.

Sanwa sticks AND buttons are designed to be mounted on an thin metal control panel. The buttons snap into place, and are essentially anchored to the metal panel. Thats what your agetec stick has that you mentioned.

With homemade sticks, it isn't fun working with metal- and a cheaper and easier way is to simply use lexan as an alternative to a metal control panel. It's easier to work with, cheap, and you can put a nice underlay in there. So in order to support the lexan in your joystick base, you need to put a frame in there to support the lexan- one that allows room for the joystick and buttons. Lexan is strong, but it still needs a solid support frame.

Your agetec stick has the plastic base, and in the middle is the metal control panel. We are simply using a piece of lexan as the metal control panel- but it needs extra support so it can be as rigid and solid as that metal.

To be honest with you, on my american stick and stuck sanwa obsf 24 buttons in my MDF top panel and they fit in there nice and snug. They aren't "clicked" into place, but are quite secure in there (i'm gonna get screw type 24s from happ anyway).

[Rising Knuckle]

Thanks for the comments. Now onto my next question.

Okay so for my PS2 PCB I used one of the pads that I never use. I used the cyber shock pad by blaze:

http://www.lik-sang.com/image.php?category=14&products_id=560&img=ps-cybershock

The pcb board was a nightmare to even take out. Also from the pictures of other pcb boards that I have seen it looks like it would be harder to solder.

Could you recommend me some cheap pads that would be easy to solder and the like? Thanks.

[armad1ll0]

As hosted on my site:
http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/images/Tutorials/Sega_DC_PCB.jpg

Originally posted by Dc1
can anybody tell me how to wire the dreamcast joystick to the button on a stick

I'm making my own dreamcast arcade stick but I do not know the spots on the standard dreamcast to solder the wires for the bottons to

can anybody tell me the spots and if you have a picture that'll be great

thanks

[TGC]

The sony "H" series has a common ground????

If not, what are some good CHEAP pads that do.

[showryeyoucan]

yeah, the H series have a common ground. I think armad's site has pictures

I came across a site that has the newer ps2 dualshocks (emerald and what not) pictured with relatively easy solder points where the ribbon connects to the pcb. I'll find post the link once I find it.

[armad1ll0]

All console controllers have a common ground as far as I've experienced.

I'm checking out something interesting with the Nintendo Wavebird though... it's a backburner project.

[RACK]

prolly a silly questoin... but how do you fasten a joystick base onto the wood? whats the best method to do this... i already have a hole where the joystick should go through. i just need to fasten thte base with screws somehow..

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by RACK
prolly a silly questoin... but how do you fasten a joystick base onto the wood? whats the best method to do this... i already have a hole where the joystick should go through. i just need to fasten thte base with screws somehow..

carriage bolts or something similar. Technically your stick is about done. I was able to go outside (casted hand and all) and do some soldering. That's complete now. Final touches are the priming/painting, securing the lid and the testing phase. pm if any questions. Do you own and DC?

[d2k]

hi, can someone answer some of my questions?

1. what controls the stiffness of the joystick? is it the spring? do all joystick springs fit in other joysticks?

2. is there a place to get replacement parts? i have a joystick but i lost the actuator for it. can i get it anywhere?

3. what type of parts do mas sticks use?

thanks in advance.

[TGC]

Originally posted by d2k
hi, can someone answer some of my questions?

1. what controls the stiffness of the joystick? is it the spring? do all joystick springs fit in other joysticks?

2. is there a place to get replacement parts? i have a joystick but i lost the actuator for it. can i get it anywhere?

3. what type of parts do mas sticks use?

thanks in advance.

1. Yea the spring. I'm uncertain about the universal springs part.
But if u want stiffer, just pull the spring out, but not too far, and it should stiffen up

2. Yea, there should be arcade distribution shops around...

3. Dunno

What's the best pad to use for a DC hack? Mine just broke, so i need replacement, but i didn't make it in the first place.

[Rising Knuckle]

How easy would it be to solder an official sony pad, the ones without dual shock?

[Nando]

OK....I need to know where i can get a GOOD stick,....Like, the JOYSTICK.....


I bought a Pelican REal arcade stick....and it blows ass...The stick is broken.....And i need to order A good one to replace it

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by d2k
hi, can someone answer some of my questions?

1. what controls the stiffness of the joystick? is it the spring? do all joystick springs fit in other joysticks?

2. is there a place to get replacement parts? i have a joystick but i lost the actuator for it. can i get it anywhere?

3. what type of parts do mas sticks use?

thanks in advance.

1. already answered, but you don't want to stretch it out. It will do no good in the long run and will weaken it. Buy a heavy spring to replace item# 95-1309-01 (-00 for a standard spring)

2. Happcontrols sells everything. Acutators: ultimate js #95-1307-00; competition js #95-0197-00; super js #50-6087-00 (whole kit); perfect 360... just kidding :D

3. I think the standard happ parts if I'm correct. Don't own a mas I own a RG stick.

Nando: :lol: you actually paid money for one of those! Okay, you still have the case/box? I'd recommend keeping it and install REAL authentic parts from happs and not no cheap ass plastic playskool my first joystick parts that it came with.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Rack: here is your stick. All I have left is connecting the quick disconnects/microswitches.

[Shin Ace]

I've built a few sticks over the last year or so and the problem I'm now having is that I will soon run out of good microswitches. I will likely make a group purchase for over 100 switches. I have found places in China that sell 200 switches for around 30$, but they're minimum order is 200$.
What's the easiest way to get tons of switches at a decent price? Now I'm thinking my best bet would be to buy the X-arcade pushbuttons and use those switches.

[d2k]

got a couple more questions :)

1. what goes first, soldering the ground or the buttons?

2. do happ parts automatically fit into mas?

[Gaijinblaze]

Hey guys..

I understand that carriage bolts are the type of bolt used to attach the plexiglass or a similar material to the wood. But according to <this site> (http://www.boltdepot.com/carriage-bolts.aspx) and every other site I've seen that mentions them, carriage bolts have a square under the head to hold its place in the wood. With this, how do you guys put the carriage bolt onto the plexi? Wouldn't the square thing prevent the bolt from going all the way into the glass? Sorry if this question doesn't make sense.

Thanks.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by Gaijinblaze
Hey guys..

I understand that carriage bolts are the type of bolt used to attach the plexiglass or a similar material to the wood. But according to <this site> (http://www.boltdepot.com/carriage-bolts.aspx) and every other site I've seen that mentions them, carriage bolts have a square under the head to hold its place in the wood. With this, how do you guys put the carriage bolt onto the plexi? Wouldn't the square thing prevent the bolt from going all the way into the glass? Sorry if this question doesn't make sense.

Thanks.

Easy answer. No it wouldn't. When you drill the holes for the holes, Use a bit larger than the size of the bolt thats going to be used. 1) It'll keep the plexi from cracking when it's fastern 2) The square part should catch the hole, but it's not going to matter, because its only holding the plexi together on the wood.

If you were to use the same size bit on the plexi as the carriage bolt, when you tighten it, the square is going to tighten itself too much, and will usually crack. Thats why I said use a larger bit ON THE PLEXI, the bolt is still going to be the same sized as drilled on the wood, but you're just passing it through the plexi, and use washers under the lock nuts to when screwing tight. Doesn't have to be tight or anything either. If this makes sense at all, then good. Don't know how else to explain it.

[showryeyoucan]

Originally posted by d2k
got a couple more questions :)

1. what goes first, soldering the ground or the buttons?

2. do happ parts automatically fit into mas?

1. It doesn't matter- and you shouldn't be soldering while your pcb is plug into your console.

2. MAS uses happ parts, so yes!

[SF Punker]

Ok here's my problem:

I've had this RO stick for a while and finally decided to swap out the original parts for Competition stuff. So today I did and when I hooked it up to my PS2, it seemed to work for little bit then stopped, or would work intermittantly for a few seconds, stop working for a few seconds, then start working again for a few more seconds. It even would get stuck on down every once in a while. It worked perfectly fine before I put in the new parts and I just checked it with a mulitmeter and all the grounds are connected and none of them are touching anything their not supposed to be. Right now I have it plugged into my laptop via USB adapter and its not registering anything. Does anyone have any suggestions?

[Digital Master]

Hey guys i finally build my own stick,i went through Kevin's website,having a stick is great, check out these pics

[Digital Master]

Heres another one,i know its kinda ugly but it plays great :D

[armad1ll0]

You could easily rewire it so that it's multiple console compatible.

Arcade controls -> Female DB15

Dreamcast PCB -> Male DB15
PlayStation PCB -> Male DB15

I've done it on my personal flip-top stick also. You would lust need more holes for the 3 extra buttons.

[Shin Ace]

When doing a multiple stick setup using gamepads, you'll need to connect the 5V leads on all pads together. Meaning they are now shorted out, which is great if you only have one pad plugged in at a time. For the safety of your stuff, place diodes across each 5v source from the pads before they meet at the 5v common. Otherwise, you would need to install a switch. It's more hassle in the long run, but does work. That way you can safely plug the pads in without blowing controller ports.
As for the rest, wiring is a no brainer. All grounds go together(assuming the pads have common ground to boot), crimp the buttons signals wires together. So jab would have N wires going to the N pads but still the one ground.

Armadillo, I'd use a DB25 just because it's easier to work with. What you're suggesting is to wire the controls to the female end and then swap the male end for whatever system you're using. In that case, forget what I said. Although, you could always improve on your design by trying it.

BTW, leds can be added using a 50 cent inverter. 7404 digital IC.
peep this: http://www.geocities.com/alainprice/ownzord1.jpg
and
http://www.geocities.com/alainprice/ownzord3.jpg

Both of my joysticks are DC and USB. Bonus: I can play a game on PC and DC simultaneously. Not much of a useful bonus, but makes for switching consoles very easy.

[armad1ll0]

The top on the dude's stick flips it up so yes. I meant to do a manual swap.

As for me. Harder never deters me. I use DB15 cause it has enough wires and it's smaller and tighter. I don't want a plug with 10 dead pins. Seems excessive and just plain big/bulky.

[d2k]

thanks to everyone that helped me...but i have what i think is my final question.

1. how do unsolder to put in new parts?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Go to Radio Shack and buy some de-soldering braid to remove the old solder. I believe that Arm has more info on that, I don't have to worry about desolder work.

[armad1ll0]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO
Go to Radio Shack and buy some de-soldering braid to remove the old solder. I believe that Arm has more info on that, I don't have to worry about desolder work.

Hmph...
I actually use a solder sucker.

[Dc1]

okey I need a little tip about soldering

I'm trying to solder wires onto the standard dreamcast pad, I found out the spot I need to solder(thanks to the person who provide the picture) but when I try to solder the wires , the solder would not stay on the pad so the wires would not get connected to the pad

how do I overcome this problem?

[GreatLlama]

Originally posted by Dc1
okey I need a little tip about soldering

I'm trying to solder wires onto the standard dreamcast pad, I found out the spot I need to solder(thanks to the person who provide the picture) but when I try to solder the wires , the solder would not stay on the pad so the wires would not get connected to the pad

how do I overcome this problem?

Well if you havent scratched off the black crap to expose copper do that first then you need a solder that has a rosin core to it so that it has flux already in it. If it does not you need to find some sort of flux somewhere. Something else that helps is to tin the wire first. Do this by stripping your wire then run the tip of your iron with solder on it along the stripped piece.

As for the other thing about the desoldering braid i prefer the braid over the solder sucker just because its easier. all you do for that is put the braid on the solder. Hold your iron on the braid and the braid sucks up the solder leaving nothing behind.

[showryeyoucan]

Originally posted by GreatLlama


As for the other thing about the desoldering braid i prefer the braid over the solder sucker just because its easier. all you do for that is put the braid on the solder. Hold your iron on the braid and the braid sucks up the solder leaving nothing behind.

I prefer the braid as well.

Digital Master- as long as it works great that all that matters!

Shin Ace- i like the lights! very cool!

[Shin Ace]

To avoid cold solder joints, essentially a blob of solder resting on something, you need to heat up both metal parts to be soldered. You can't simply hold the wire down onto the pcb with your iron, you must have contact between the iron, the wire and the pad.
Keep on practicing, just not on the pads.
1) you need to scrape off that carbon film until you get that nice shiny metal.
2)use some tool to hold your wire into place, you need to handle the iron and solder, without the wire moving at all.
3)place the solder so that the tip of it touches both the wire and pcb, then lay your iron over this. It makes for good heat conduction, everything is now thermally connected.
4)wait about 3 seconds, then touch your solder onto the wire and pcb(making sure it DOES NOT touch the iron this time). the solder should flow into the gap making a nice joint on it's own.

When you're done, the solder should never form blobs or droplets. This is a sign that your solder touched the iron and/or the joint was not hot enough. It should be shiny. A dull joint usually means the joint was too cold or the wire moved after you removed the iron.

[TGC]

I got some questions about artwork. How would i print this stuff? Would i have to go to a place like kinkos??? Also one more thing, the paper to print on? Is it sticky on the back, or would i use like a sticky clear film?

Help is appreciated on artwork: Best method, alternative methods.

Thanks in advance

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by TGC
I got some questions about artwork. How would i print this stuff? Would i have to go to a place like kinkos??? Also one more thing, the paper to print on? Is it sticky on the back, or would i use like a sticky clear film?

Help is appreciated on artwork: Best method, alternative methods.

Thanks in advance

Yeah Kinkos or another type of printing agency. We have a place here called Acu Copy. You have the options on how you want to print your artwork. Vinyl is the most preffered way to go, but expensive. I save money and get my artwork printed on glossy photo paper. Vinyl is adhesive I believe or you can spray some adhesive type of material on the back of the paper or whatever to stick on your project.

[Shin Ace]

With the holes for the buttons and stick going through the artwork, and an additional layer of plexi on top and there's no need to glue the art down. That way, you can swap it when the next big game comes around.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Yeah, thats what I do.

[pandock]

hey can someone give me a hand. I need the 6 button hole template that was posted somewhere on this thread. its the one that i can print it directly to a 8 X 11 paper. i tried to print the one in one of the sites in the beginning but it wont print onto that size paper. thanx alot!

[OGsamson]

I have sanwa buttons and stick (jlf-tp-8y) yet i have no idea which parts to wire to and what to do with the 5 prongs. Anyone have a picture of their sanwa stick wiring so i can see what im doing here? If you dont have a picture instructions on how to do so are appreciated also, thanks.

[armad1ll0]

Here's how it should be done with a Sanwa wire cable. (of Catch22's example) Mine looks similar but I did trim the cable down to a closer length. Didn't bother to take a shot of it.

I have a couple for $5. You can solder to the prongs or the back of the microswitch also.

[dnguyen800]

here's the 6 button template that Catch22 had on his site before it disappeared.

[Gaijinblaze]

Hey guys.

Just out of interest, what tools are necessary for T-molding? Is it difficult to install? How would one go about to apply it? For such a simple thing, it looks great and I may try it.

Thanks.

[Dreaded Fist]

Check out my made for functionality stick. If's tall so it feels right when you play on the floor and its made so it'll be low when you put it on your lap, and the sides will prevent it from moving around.

OMG!

FOR T-MOLDING:

I think www.gamecabinetsinc.com has a tool for cutting the slot, if you don't wanna go out and buy a $100 router. Alternatively, you can just use a hand saw to cut the slot. I haven't try the handsaw method though, it'll be pretty hard to cut a straight slot.

[Nick T.]

I need a website for 6 Sanwa buttons.
Rotendo gave me a site, but its in Japanese and i can't read it. :(

[Quicksilver3007]

Got a question about PCB. I started out with the basic dreamcast stick hack and now I'm working on a universal one via DB25 connectors. My question is does MAS create their own PCB boards from scratch and if so where could I learn to do that and procure some blank PCB? I've been thinking about making some sticks for a profit and maybe starting a business. Thanks in advance for any input.

[Pimp Willy]

So, if what I read is correct, if I want to hook up a joystick to both a PS2 and a DC pad, and have 2 cables coming out the back (depending on what system I am using it on at the time), it's not safe to simply wire the DC pcb to the PS2 pcb, which in turn daisy chains out to the buttons? What I read is that it may short out from too much voltage, but if only 1 of the 2 plugs are in at a time, that shouldn't be a problem, should it?

[Toodles]

Originally posted by Quicksilver3007
Got a question about PCB. I started out with the basic dreamcast stick hack and now I'm working on a universal one via DB25 connectors.

My question is does MAS create their own PCB boards from scratch (I dont have a mas, this is heresay). From what I understand, that have a PCB they use, and wire up the cords and add a chip for each system the stick supports.

and if so where could I learn to do that and procure some blank PCB? Errr, lotsa electronics stuff going on there, so a good electronics background. Detailed information on the PSX controller, along with controller emulation using logic chips and another using a single PIC HERE (http://www.gamesx.com/controldata/psxcont/psxcont.htm) Marcus Comstedt's Dreamcast page has great info on the DC controller, but really, this aint something a guy on a internet forum can explain well enough.

I've been thinking about making some sticks for a profit and maybe starting a business. Thanks in advance for any input. I would personally advise against it, but best of luck to you.

[Toodles]

RedOctane has a sale on the Xbox sticks; the picture doesn't show it having any plexiglass on it. Does anyone know if the trop of the control panel is flush with the sides, or set in like the other RO boxes? How did they deal with the holes for the bolts securing the joystick in? I was thinking of picking one up, but would like to know what I'm getting first. Im just glad it doesnt have that damn tape everywhere.

[Shin Ace]

Willy, you can do it, depending.
1) both pads need power so you'll need to short out both of their 5v leads so that when any one pad is plugged in, they both have power. Same with ground, shorted together.

2) wire as expected, lp from both pads gets crimped in the same connector and then goes to lp.

My joysticks have 3 wires going to each button(3 on one terminal and the 1 ground), one for the dc pad, one for the usb pad, and one for the inverter driving the led's.

[Quicksilver3007]

Originally posted by Toodles


My question is does MAS create their own PCB boards from scratch (I dont have a mas, this is heresay). From what I understand, that have a PCB they use, and wire up the cords and add a chip for each system the stick supports.

and if so where could I learn to do that and procure some blank PCB? Errr, lotsa electronics stuff going on there, so a good electronics background. Detailed information on the PSX controller, along with controller emulation using logic chips and another using a single PIC HERE (http://www.gamesx.com/controldata/psxcont/psxcont.htm) Marcus Comstedt's Dreamcast page has great info on the DC controller, but really, this aint something a guy on a internet forum can explain well enough.

I've been thinking about making some sticks for a profit and maybe starting a business. Thanks in advance for any input. I would personally advise against it, but best of luck to you.

Yeah I know that starting a business making sticks would be the single hardest thing I've ever done but I'm not planning on anything in the near future. II'm only working on my second stick right now. This one is gonna be universal for xbox, ps2, dc, and pc. Gonna put some artwork and plexi over the top. But yeah I won't be doing anything major anytime soon. Preciate the input everything was about what I figured it would be. Now I gotta learn to make PCB from scratch :bluu:

[armad1ll0]

Originally posted by Toodles
RedOctane has a sale on the Xbox sticks; the picture doesn't show it having any plexiglass on it. Does anyone know if the trop of the control panel is flush with the sides, or set in like the other RO boxes? How did they deal with the holes for the bolts securing the joystick in? I was thinking of picking one up, but would like to know what I'm getting first. Im just glad it doesnt have that damn tape everywhere.

The Xbox variant is completely flush on top. There's no seat for plexiglass as the original box did. They had manufacturing problems with fit and finish with the Plexi so they did w/o it on that 2nd version.

[Toodles]

Originally posted by armad1ll0


The Xbox variant is completely flush on top. There's no seat for plexiglass as the original box did. They had manufacturing problems with fit and finish with the Plexi so they did w/o it on that 2nd version.

Wonderfull news, thanks for the info, I sincerely appreciate it.

Now if only there was some way to get them to NOT drill the hole on the lower left......

[Dreaded Fist]

yeah I see the buttons on the lower left shouldn't be there. But you can get those button plugs and plug that boy up:)

[edmondantes]

Yesturday, somebody playing with my custom stick noticed that my fierce is a turbo button. You can just hold down the button and the fierce would come out repeatedly -_- It doesn't really bother me since I don't negative edge, but just curious, what can be wrong? It's been suggested it might be the cheap pcb. Arm?

UPDATE: Things are perfectly ok now. Thought last night's dc was kinda screwy anyway.

[Dreaded Fist]

your pcb might have a turbo function. You can just unplug it and replug the controller and it should go away. I don't know what would cause the turbo to activate but I cut the traces on the turbo mode button and the problem went away.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

I was thinking about it and I now that I am thinking about it. It probably was because it was on turbo. Cuz I used a turba pad for it and somehow you activated turbo. If it still does it after you unplug it and plug it in again... then I haven't a clue. Like I said, that was the first time I ever saw something like that happen.

DreadedFist: Yo, nice work. I played on one of your materpieces yesterday. They were using a RoTeNdO's Gaming stick and a DreadedFist stick in 3S and CvS2. Anyway... so you're making the bottom using a thing board and stuff now? Didn't know that. I was like... whoa, cool. :D

[Dreaded Fist]

HEY! thx lol. But nothing plays better than this

www.geocities.com/konxept/laptap.jpg
and this

www.geocities.com/konxept/sitdown.jpg

[Quicksilver3007]

For the 5V necessary for the perfect 360 on a playstation dual shock 1 is the pin I want to solder to the middle pin from the controller pinout? thanx in advance for the help

[thaBadGuy]

my stick pauses in games every 5 mins.
I re solderd the start button because I thought that was it but its still going to the pause screen Ive checked the connections on the pcb and they all seem to be fine what else should I check
thanks

[KYO84]

I was wondering if anybody here knows how This (http://store.yahoo.com/adux/arcadecasepcb.html) works, and how easy it is to put together? Is it as easy as just putting quick disconnects on the ends of the wires and attaching them to the Cherry Switches then putting your buttons and joystick of choice?

Thanks.