The Official Custom Arcade Sticks Thread

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Since more people are now deciding to make their own homemade arcade sticks to play at home and get that arcade feel to practice and play with friends, I've made this thread for everyone who has made their own to share pics/ideas/comments and whatever else to post here.

I started making sticks after searching the net for an arcade stick to play MvC2 on my DC and came across "the frankenstick" www.wrongcrowd.com/arcade . A site on how to build your own arcade stick by using a PSX/PS2 controller. From there I learned of another site, www.arcadecontrols.com/ and seen that there were more people who have made their own sticks (mainly to play games on M.A.M.E.) I thought about buying a MAS stick or an X-Arcade stick, but that was expensive and it's cheaper to build your own, to your own liking.

Just today, I went out and bought more shit to build yet another stick for myself and since I have parts lying around and a already pcb, it'll only take me till Thursday to finish.

Any question you have on how to build sticks or about links and such, please go ahead and post 'em. Anyone else are also free to answer these questions.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

LINKS TO GET STARTED ***Updated 2/12/06!!***
www.arcadecontrols.com/
www.wrongcrowd.com/arcade
www.happcontrols.com
www.centsibleamusements.com
www.ultimarc.com/controls.html
www.wicothesource.com
http://shop4.outpost.com/product/2604262 (.187 quick disconnects qtyX100)

http://nuclearplayground.com/joysticks/ Kevin's Badass Arcade Sticks
www.leafstation.com MAME Station II
www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/arcade.htm CD_Vision's Arcade Controls
www.tobywong.50megs.com/ M3talslug's Control Panel
http://www.freewebs.com/customjoystick/customjoystick.htm SNAAAKE's MAMESTATION
http://www.rotendo.50megs.com/ RoTeNdO's Gaming: Arcade Sticks
http://byrdo.org/arcade_joysticks.htm Byrdo's Arcade Joysticks
http://mysite.verizon.net/res8l8d9/joystick_builder/index.htm
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2351680&postcount=1 finkle designs

HOW TO SOLDER TUTORIALS
http://www.kingbass.com/soldering101.html
http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm
http://www.robotstore.com/download/How_to_solder_1.pdf Barney Style!
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/solder.htm

TOO LAZY TO BUILD ONE, BUY ONE!
http://www.redoctane.com/joystick-capcom.html
http://www.massystems.com/
http://www.x-arcade.com/
http://www.arcadecab.com/Store/Single_Base_Details.htm

SEGA DREAMCAST CONTROLLER INFORMATION
http://mc.pp.se/dc/controller.html

SONY PLAYSTATION CONTROLLER INFORMATION
http://www.gamesx.com/controldata/psxcont/psxcont.htm
http://sophiateam.undrgnd.free.fr/psx/
http://www.epanorama.net/documents/joystick/tvgames.html
http://pinouts.ru/pin_Game.shtml Videogames Pinouts Listing <Good Stuff!

CONTROL PANEL DESIGN FLASH PROGRAM
http://move360media.com/mame/icpd/Launch.htm
Interface Control Panel Design

MODIFY YOUR STREET FIGHTER ANNIVERSARY STICK WITH 'REAL ARCADE PARTS'
http://www.arcadestickmonk.com/SFACmod.html

more later... if links are not working, please let me know BY PM or posting here!

RATE THIS THREAD!! ***** (5 STARS)

[Running Uppercut]

STICK! STICKY! I too am building my own custom box. It is a 2 player sit-down box. I ordered the sticks and buttons yesterday, so I await them to get here so I can finish it. Today we are puting the stand on it and doing another coat of paint. The top of the box is 48 X 18, large enough to accomidate 2 big guys.

This thread is a really good idea, cuz it took like 2 weeks to find all of the info I needed to build this thing. Good thinking!:cool:

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Last I heard, some parts like for example, competition joysticks were on back order. You should recieve everything in about 7 days. I've nevered order from centsibleamusements, but they carry very few parts (no competitions), the only good thing about them is that they are a bit cheaper, even in shipping.

[Running Uppercut]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO
Last I heard, some parts like for example, competition joysticks were on back order. You should recieve everything in about 7 days. I've nevered order from centsibleamusements, but they carry very few parts (no competitions), the only good thing about them is that they are a bit cheaper, even in shipping.

Yep, the Competition sticks I ordered are not going to be in until 1/06. So I await the arrivial of them in mid January so I can start hosting tourneys at my house and shit.

[Voodoo]

Custom stick? Pfft...I'm working on converting an old capcom cabinet into a beatly MAME cab.

Good times. :D

[DEF]

DC-
1. {easy}If you have a old "green stick" you can use that and wont really need to solder anything together,

2. {MED} Use a DC pad

DC&PS2-

3. {HARD}Use a psx pad. (you will need a psx to dc adapter)


using the psx pad is the hardest because the points that you have to solder on are very small.


my 2 cents :)

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by DEF

3. {HARD}Use a psx pad. (you will need a psx to dc adapter)


using the psx pad is the hardest because the points that you have to solder on are very small.


Yes, the SONY brand PSX controllers are very hard (not impossible) to solder onto due to the small copper joints (or whatever) on the trace. That's why it is best to use 3rd party contollers cuz the copper traces are larger and you can also drill small holes on the trace to help (that goes with every other controllers DC/PSX/XB/etc..)

I use the PS Arcade to make PSX/PS2 controllers. Every single stick I've made was SOLDER FREE. The PS Arcade is made by Interact (a very good 3rd party brand for gaming accessories). I bought my first one about 3 almost 4 years ago for $50 and this year the PX finally had them on clearence (75%) and bought 4 more for about $11/ea!! :eek: My suggestion for those wanting to make PSX/PS2 arcade stick is to go on ebay and try to find these type of controllers. Remember PS Arcade (Pro?) for the PSX by Interact.

Other soldering free controlllers:
Agetec
Performance DC controllers (the one's with turbo/)
Enforcer?
Other perfomance controllers?

[Chachaman]

Ah nice thread now i don't have to look up and down the net for shit lots of it is in here. this should't be to hard since i have wood lying around the house.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

It's really not that hard at all, and anyone can do it. All i takes is patience and basic knowledge of carpentry, the use of power tools, and following the step by step directions in many of the faqs out there.

[blood_sin]

Here's a pic of my stick 'big red.' I made it nice and heavy and put the buttons pretty close together as you can see. The start button gets pressed accidentally during mashing sometimes, but I dont play mvc2 much so it doesnt matter to me.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Nice. Should have went all the way and got the red joystick and buttons too! I was thinking about doing one of my next projects using a read joystick and red buttons, but have the enclosure black with plexi glass. That'll give it a bad ass look, then add some designs to the sides and it's all set. Maybe use some kanji characters or something for that.

[SominexII]

I've searched on the web and am still trying to find wiring diagrams for Happ Perfect 360s for PS and DC controllers. Anyone have any sites/info? Some folks (reading on the threads here) have been able to wire the 5VDC through the ports bypassing the DC adapter option.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

It shouldn't be that hard. I haven't installed one before myself, but I know what they look like underneath and I think it's just 5 wiring. Up, down, left, right, and the ground. If you mean by what is what (i.e. what's down and etc...) then I have no clue. I'll post right back, I'm going to do some research real quick.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Here's what I found out. The bottom of the stick should be labled for easy hook up. For instructions, go here http://www.happcontrols.com/images/pdf/ins-0057.pdf :D There you go.

[SominexII]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO
Here's what I found out. The bottom of the stick should be labled for easy hook up. For instructions, go here http://www.happcontrols.com/images/pdf/ins-0057.pdf :D There you go.

I was reading someone's post (can't remember who it was) regarding building a stick for their DC and they said they fried it trying to hook up the 360. Are there pronounced wires/points for the 5VDCs power lead and ground on the PS and DC controllers? I've only done a PS project with a Happ Super and the self powered issue is new to me. I didn't see anything on the board that would suggest 5VDC power/ground leads. Thanks :D

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by SominexII


I was reading someone's post (can't remember who it was) regarding building a stick for their DC and they said they fried it trying to hook up the 360. Are there pronounced wires/points for the 5VDCs power lead and ground on the PS and DC controllers? I've only done a PS project with a Happ Super and the self powered issue is new to me. I didn't see anything on the board that would suggest 5VDC power/ground leads. Thanks :D

I hear many stories about people who have fried thier DC ports (not the DC itself) after installing p360's. It's mainly because they didn't have the power lead or whatever soldered to the correct copper point on the DC pad. Yes, there should be a place where you can solder those onto, how else would the rumble features work on PS/DC/GC/XB pads? Where ever the motor for the rumble device is, that's where it is, cuz the little motors are connected to 'it' and that's how they are powered (through the system) I'm almost sure of this. You should check the decktop projects over at arcadecontrols.com and see if anyone used 360's on their sticks. I think I remember seeing a project that did use 360's.

[SominexII]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO


I hear many stories about people who have fried thier DC ports (not the DC itself) after installing p360's. It's mainly because they didn't have the power lead or whatever soldered to the correct copper point on the DC pad. Yes, there should be a place where you can solder those onto, how else would the rumble features work on PS/DC/GC/XB pads? Where ever the motor for the rumble device is, that's where it is, cuz the little motors are connected to 'it' and that's how they are powered (through the system) I'm almost sure of this. You should check the decktop projects over at arcadecontrols.com and see if anyone used 360's on their sticks. I think I remember seeing a project that did use 360's.

I didn't think of the rumble motor power/ground source leads. That helps a lot. Thanks :cool:

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by SominexII


I didn't think of the rumble motor power/ground source leads. That helps a lot. Thanks :cool:

No prob. Just read those instructions and find out what's positive and negative for the leads. If you have one of those power meter things, you can tell what's what. Electric meter or something. Great tool to have to make sure everything is connected of to find 'leads'.

[m3talslug]

Here's a stick hooked up with P360s drawing a +5v from the PSX gamepad

http://tobywong.50megs.com

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Really nice work!! Wires and everything are so neat and organized, and I really love that overlay!

Exactly what type of hinges are those called? I would like to know so I can build my next series of sticks using those instead of having the hinges on the outside. One more question, how much did Kinko's charge you to print the overlay? Must be expensive. Again, great stick.

[psikooz]

im about to build my own one player joystick.. but the only problems is that i am not sure about the box itself.. does anyone have any plans so when i got get the wood cut i know exactly what i need?

[m3talslug]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO
Really nice work!! Wires and everything are so neat and organized, and I really love that overlay!

Exactly what type of hinges are those called? I would like to know so I can build my next series of sticks using those instead of having the hinges on the outside. One more question, how much did Kinko's charge you to print the overlay? Must be expensive. Again, great stick.

I used "Invisible Lock hinges" from home depot.

Kinkos charged me $25CDN for the bloody overlay (2x1 feet). A bit pricey... but I figure I'm going to be seeing this joystick for a LONG TIME.

[ant one]

i know how to wire a p360 for dc. just pm and send ill the info out.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by psikooz
im about to build my own one player joystick.. but the only problems is that i am not sure about the box itself.. does anyone have any plans so when i got get the wood cut i know exactly what i need?

First get out a sheet of paper and draw down how your stick will look. Make sure to draw the sides and maybe a 3D view to help. Make some measurements and then draw every piece of board for the box with measurements and how you'll contruct it. Will everything be set on top of the bottom board or will it be nailed to the sides of the bottom board? That's for you to decide.

take some notes afterwards ,like this:

side a&b= 4" in front to 5" in back (for slant) length= 10"
front side= 4" in ht, 14-16" in wdth
back side= 5" in ht, 14-16" in wdth
top control layout= 14-16" in wdth, 10" in length
bottom= 12-14" in wdth, 8" in length (to fit in between the front, back and sides)

something like that, but it all depends on how you want it and how big or small. check out the the examples in the links above for reference.

[Voodoo]

I installed a 360 on my MAS for my DC like a year ago, haven't had any problems with the controller port blowing out so far. :lol:

A DC contoller cord is just made up of five little wires. One of these wires actually provides the +5v that the 360 needs. Just solder a wire coming from where that one meets the circuit board, lead that to the 360, and you're golden. I'm not sure exactly what color the wire is though, I'd have to look when I got home.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Thanks for the additional infor Koolaid. Going to that Charlotte tourney on the 11th? Anyway...

[ant one]

its the blue wire. on a madcatz board the contact is the 2nd down from the top, in the line of 5 where the cord connects to the board. Rotendo ill send an image if you pm your email. Basically, on most dc controllers you solder to where the blue wire conacts the board, and on ps its where the red wire contacts the board ( usually pin 5) But always use a multimeter to test. Dont take my word for it. Every pad can be a little different. Oh and its not wise to connect a vmu and a p360.
hope it helps.
AO

[Burning Ranger]

I have an official Sega Joystick for the DC (which was released in the US by Agetec). Everything except the joystick is good. What I want to do is move everything to a new case and replace the joystick. Does anyone have anything that would help me? What kind of stick should I replace it with (and will be compatible)?

[Running Uppercut]

If you could open up the stick, and take a good picture of the guts inside that would help a lot.

[AlkalineX]

:lol: :lol: ! @ runninguppercuts avatar.

[N-Ken]

Does anyone know where I could find .jpg 's that would fit on a stick. When I build mine I want something snazzy on it.

[J-ride]

i found all of my pictures through lycos, it worked fine for me.

[ant one]

this pretty much sums it up.
http://mc.pp.se/dc/controller.html

[FMK]

Exactly what site can I go to. to order all the suppliies I need to build a single and multii-player stick. Also what site has the best contruction plans for a beginner. I want to build my own stick; but I really have no wood working skills. Would it be easier for me to buy from someone. thanks

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by FMK
Exactly what site can I go to. to order all the suppliies I need to build a single and multii-player stick. Also what site has the best contruction plans for a beginner. I want to build my own stick; but I really have no wood working skills. Would it be easier for me to buy from someone. thanks

In, "The Links Above", you'll find what you're looking for. For best construction, I would have to say that Chuck (MAME Station) has great plans in different formats for you to check out for both an arcade cab and control panel layout. For the wood work, you can take the wood to a wood shop and they can help you do it if there's one around your area. Some charge per hour, some have other means to hook you up, but I really don't know. Ask a few friends or maybe your Dad (if you still live with your folks) for help. My Dad taught me all my skills as did the [whispers] boyscouts *shush* :D Buying from someone is another option yes, but from who is up to you. Do some research first before making that decision.

[popoblo]

i want to convert my agetec japanese layout into an american button layout because it's tough trying to translate my combo's from home to the arcade with a different button layout. any tips? i heard i don't have to solder anything, and my grandpa is a carpenter, so woodwork is no problem whatsoever. any websites/personal stories would be greatly appreciated.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by N-Ken
Does anyone know where I could find .jpg 's that would fit on a stick. When I build mine I want something snazzy on it.

You can use Adobe Photoshop for that, but I don't know how... I asked Krazy Jones what program he used and he said AP7. If anyone, preferebly a Photoshop expert or some sort can help, then how can you make an image a certain size to fit your control panel to be printed at Kinko's ?

popoblo: check out my site at 50megs. I have pics of an agetec that I used as the 'brain' (pcb) for a new stick. Pics are in the photo page. For the buttons, you want to use ultimate push buttons? That is the 'standard' buttons used for most cabs here in the states, but competitions (convexed type) are the best!

Burning Ranger: you want to replace the casing or do you mean converting it over to an arcade style 'box' panel? If so, then depending whether or not you need to solder, it's not hard at all. For the joystick (if converting, use competition j/s or p360 if you like, some people prefer the supers :confused: ) Do what Running Uppercut said and try taking a picture using a pc cam or something so you can easily upload it as an attachment.

[ant one]

i use photoshop, and illustrator.There are tons of programs you could use though, depending on what you want. Photoshop is probably the best bet

[GKI]

Well I've posted a link to my joystick so many times, but finally a sticky joystick thread:confused: :D . Now i won't have to post it so damn much, well here it is
www.geocities.com/gkiphx/jstick.html. I am also in the process of making one player dc stick , i'll post pics when im done.

[Sifu]

Heh, does anybody know where I can buy myself a single microswitch with arms? I only need one and all with of these $25 dollar minimum orders...

http://www.wicothesource.com/new2/pics/page20.jpg
Anybody happen to have an Omron Microswitch but with arms? Or something of a similiar shape.

[m3talslug]

Originally posted by Sifu
Heh, does anybody know where I can buy myself a single microswitch with arms? I only need one and all with of these $25 dollar minimum orders...

http://www.wicothesource.com/new2/pics/page20.jpg
Anybody happen to have an Omron Microswitch but with arms? Or something of a similiar shape.

http://www.happcontrols.com/electrical_supplies/95073500.htm

is that what you're talking about? You could probably order it straight from that website.

[magnus]

I want to know how hard it would be to change out the current joystick to a perfect 360? Is there a lot of work involved as far as switching things in and out? Or is it just replacing the current connections from one stick into the other?

Thanks in advance

[Dreaded Fist]

rotendo, is this what u had in mind?


www.geocities.com/konxept/stickbase.jpg
hehe

bow down boah!

[Sifu]

Originally posted by m3talslug


http://www.happcontrols.com/electrical_supplies/95073500.htm

is that what you're talking about? You could probably order it straight from that website.

Yeah, exactly, but I only need one and happ requires a minimum order of $25.

[Vigorous]

Here are my custom sticks.
I never wanted a Mas because it was always too low for me and the bottom portion wasn't long enough to support my wrist.
These guys are HUGE, I can sit perfectly and play like I'm at the arcade. Since it was my first time making sticks, I didn't want to bother with P360's yet. Also, I followed CD_Vision's instructions, his detailed pics helped alot.
BTW, Mad Props to Kevmono for helping me wire the sticks.
Whatcha guys think? :)

http://www.imgstudio.com/IMGphotos/2002/November/22/stamp_original/1122200211591641.jpg

http://www.imgstudio.com/IMGphotos/2002/November/22/stamp_original/1122200211591755.jpg

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
rotendo, is this what u had in mind?


www.geocities.com/konxept/stickbase.jpg
hehe

bow down boah!

? :confused: I can't get to it. Page unavailable. What do you mean what I had in mind? The design? I just make something simple. No reasong to break my neck, it's not like I'm going to enter it in a contest or anything like that. I'll wait till I actually see it. That "bow down boah (boy?)!" comment, is that suppose to mean that you have a really good looking stick or something or it is your sig?

Anyway...

[m3talslug]

It's quite easy actually. The hardest part is finding the 5v from the PCB you're hooking up to. Once you find that out everything else is easy.

Originally posted by magnus
I want to know how hard it would be to change out the current joystick to a perfect 360? Is there a lot of work involved as far as switching things in and out? Or is it just replacing the current connections from one stick into the other?

Thanks in advance

[DEF]

Originally posted by popoblo
i want to convert my agetec japanese layout into an american button layout because it's tough trying to translate my combo's from home to the arcade with a different button layout. any tips? i heard i don't have to solder anything, and my grandpa is a carpenter, so woodwork is no problem whatsoever. any websites/personal stories would be greatly appreciated.

you can use these as templets they might help.

http://members.cox.net/joysticks/joystick_images/Capcom_2P-6B_Template.pdf

http://members.cox.net/joysticks/joystick_images/Capcom_2P-6B_Template.gif

your prob are going to need to get some Wire connecters "Quick Disconnects" those will go on the switches.

The wires are already comming out of the agetec stick so all you have to is extend them and at the end of your wire extensions attach your Wire connecters "Quick Disconnects" and those will plug in to your switches on your buttons/joystick.


il try to take a pic of mines and put it up in a day or so.

[Burning Ranger]

Originally posted by RunningUppercut
If you could open up the stick, and take a good picture of the guts inside that would help a lot.

Ok, I took a few pictures. Here is what the insides of Agetec/Official Sega Dreamcast joystick. Sorry I couldn't get the quality better, but all I had available was a video adapter and a video camera.

The first part is the main layout of the stick itself. I plan on taking out the PCB and the buttons and transferring them to a new casing. As far as I can tell, everything is still good. Also, due to the design of the buttons, I will also have to take the top plate of the joystick as well (the gray part, not the entire plastic casing). Also note that on all images, I have placed the orientations of the stick.

The second image is from the joystick itself, the back of the switch assembly. There are 5 wires coming from this assembly, and each corresponds to a direction with one as a ground. I might be able to determine which wire goes with which direction, but I will need a second opinion.

The third is the 'front' of the switch assembly, this time showing the switches themselves. The wires are also visible as a reference.

I basically want to know if any existing arcade joysticks will be compatible, and which one would be better suited for this task.

If anyone can help, I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

[ShadowHawkv2]

Yo here are my sticks i hope these links work.

http://shoryuken.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=384458

http://shoryuken.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=384459

Sorry i took the pics with a disposable camera:(

But I was wondering I dont like how the side of my joystick. Is ther some kind of covering i can use? Like the type of plastick that is around the mas stick.:D I am using partical board so it looks crapy:D

[m3talslug]

Originally posted by Sifu


Yeah, exactly, but I only need one and happ requires a minimum order of $25.

http://www.therealbobroberts.com

he redistributes happ parts with no minimums... I think.

[Running Uppercut]

Originally posted by m3talslug


http://www.therealbobroberts.com

he redistributes happ parts with no minimums... I think.

That site has some stuff that is cheap as hell! Competition joysticks for $8.50? $4 dollars cheaper than from Happcontrols.com? That is crazy.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by RunningUppercut


That site has some stuff that is cheap as hell! Competition joysticks for $8.50? $4 dollars cheaper than from Happcontrols.com? That is crazy.

He orders them through catalogs. They are cheaper in them, and I can get some ultimate j/s for only $6.50 through the 'mini' catalogs they send me! I'm pretty sure that's why they're cheaper.

ShadowHawkv2: awesome sticks. I like how you have the arrows on the 2player stick. You can use t-molding for the sides of the stick (the black plastic strip) depending on what side are the boards you can get them either 3/4 or 5/8 t-molding from Happcontrols per feet.

Burning Ranger: what are you talking about replacing the casing? You plan to continue to use the same joystick and buttons that it came with? I just used the pcb to make a stick. You can get competition buttons that plays almost like the ones installed with the agetec.

[Burning Ranger]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO

Burning Ranger: what are you talking about replacing the casing? You plan to continue to use the same joystick and buttons that it came with? I just used the pcb to make a stick. You can get competition buttons that plays almost like the ones installed with the agetec.

I'm going to keep everything except the joystick itself, which I intend to replace with a real arcade stick. I dont think an arcade stick will fit in the original Agetec casing, and therefore have to be moved to a new casing.

[Unreallystic]

Once cash starts flowing again I'll start work on my fourth and final stick. I am constructing a *generic* joystick. What's special about it is the multi-system support. I'm planning on creating a cartridge interface, so that I can plug in a controller board thats been wired into this cartridgre like container using serial ports as inputs and outputs - and it will connect with the joystick. The advvantage - can incorporate any new system or old system - all I need is a box *looking at using the plastic containers that you rent VHS tapes in* and a controller. Hopefully after next semester - I'll be good enough in EE to build my own board from scratch, then I won't have any issues at all. I'm still debating the P360 issue. Good for Capcom games - suck for Namco games. I don't know how Mame/Kawaks would treat them...right now I have a computer joystick I made using the competition 8-way I think *no pictures yet*, and it worx fine. I'm interested in reading those P360 sites though...how would it work for say the PSX or XBox...or for KI2 - N64?

Good thread - keep it going...
-:bluu:

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by Burning Ranger


I'm going to keep everything except the joystick itself, which I intend to replace with a real arcade stick. I dont think an arcade stick will fit in the original Agetec casing, and therefore have to be moved to a new casing.

That's the same thing my friend wanted to do with his. The hard part will be getting those buttons on the agetec to fit on any new casing you'll get. You might end up super gluing those bad boys (buttons) to their new holes when you turn them over to the new casing.

[Burning Ranger]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO


That's the same thing my friend wanted to do with his. The hard part will be getting those buttons on the agetec to fit on any new casing you'll get. You might end up super gluing those bad boys (buttons) to their new holes when you turn them over to the new casing.

Actually, I plan on removing the top dark-gray plate that sits on the top of the joystick casing and attaching it to the new casing. The reason is because the buttons on the Agetec/Sega stick are designed 'click' on that plate. It would be easier just to buy new buttons, but why spend the extra money?

[sixtymhz]

Rodo: I'll upload the pics of the stick you made me, so people can see what you did. Just remind people that plexi glass is sharp :) So round the edges if you install it on your stick. PLEASE!! :D

BTW: get up with me so we can game.

[m3talslug]

If you're looking for plastic boxes used to house PCBs you should consider a "Project Box" which can be bought at radio shack for
about $5 or less.

http://www.cosmicbreaks.com/images/arcade_stick/padhack/

As for the P360s I would easily go for it. I haven't had any problems dashing or playing Tekken and the sticks I built are p360s.

Originally posted by Unreallystic
*looking at using the plastic containers that you rent VHS tapes in* and a controller. Hopefully after next semester - I'll be good enough in EE to build my own board from scratch, then I won't have any issues at all. I'm still debating the P360 issue. Good for Capcom games - suck for Namco games. I don't know how Mame/Kawaks would treat them...right now I have a computer joystick I made using the competition 8-way I think *no pictures yet*, and it worx fine. I'm interested in reading those P360 sites though...how would it work for say the PSX or XBox...or for KI2 - N64?

Good thread - keep it going...
-:bluu:

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by sixtymhz
Rodo: I'll upload the pics of the stick you made me, so people can see what you did. Just remind people that plexi glass is sharp :) So round the edges if you install it on your stick. PLEASE!! :D

BTW: get up with me so we can game.

yeah, peeps. sand down the edges of your plexi glass! :D You may want to round the corners of them and your stick to avoid cutting yourself. We don't need anyone commiting suicide by slicing their own wrist from playing too much MvC2!!

Sixtymhz: is Wed cool? I need gas again... Also, your crib, cuz I'm flat broke.

[sixtymhz]

Lemmie see how Wednesday is.
By the way, no Char. Tourney man. Bad news, I got my CISCO class from 8am-6pm on Saturdays. ;-/

I'll get up with you on CT.

[Yansoma]

Can anyone inform me on where I might be able to find a VERY fine/large overlay for my stick, I seen someones post on here not very long ago(not this specific thread) with a marvelous CvS2 overlay.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

For those of you interested in buying some parts and not having to worry about the minimum $$$ eBay has 20 buttons and 2 joysticks for only $19.95!!! quantities of 85!! BUY NOW option is available. happ sells one (1) joystick alone for about $12.75!! And here you are getting 2 and 20 pushbuttons!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=752072267 :D

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

You can use it for the pcb to your new stick (PS2/DC with converter) retail is $49.99 (I know, cuz I use to work at EB's)

This can be used for a solder free project if anyone is interested.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=21188&item=1949280691

MAS STICK FOR $31 (for now)!

ebay is great isn't it? competition buttons, competition joystick, plus your choice for either system, PS2/DC/PC

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=187&item=1949454277

[Unreallystic]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO
For those of you interested in buying some parts and not having to worry about the minimum $$$ eBay has 20 buttons and 2 joysticks for only $19.95!!! quantities of 85!! BUY NOW option is available. happ sells one (1) joystick alone for about $12.75!! And here you are getting 2 and 20 pushbuttons!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=752072267 :D Damn - even factoring in shipping and handleing - that's one hell of a deal...even in my broke state that is tempting me...
-:bluu:

[ant one]

pm me. I think i can help you with overlays

AO

[SominexII]

Anyone know any other links besides the following for Japanese joysticks?

http://www.ultimarc.com/controls.html

Thanks :D

[Ataru]

Hears my arcade stick
http://groups.msn.com/ArcadeStickImages/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=103

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by Ataru
Hears my arcade stick
http://groups.msn.com/ArcadeStickImages/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=103

I think I've seen that on eBay just recently.

[Koop]

I cant wait till I get me a stick...:(

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by Lil_Koopsta


I cant wait till I get me a stick...:(


Hey, I'm working on it... "playboi"! :D

[Koop]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO


Hey, I'm working on it... "playboi"! :D


lol
:cool:

thanks, now I can feel part of this thread....

[Ataru]

<<I think I've seen that on eBay just recently>>


Im sure you did

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20386&item=1950443625&rd=1

[Unreallystic]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO


You can use Adobe Photoshop for that, but I don't know how... I asked Krazy Jones what program he used and he said AP7. If anyone, preferebly a Photoshop expert or some sort can help, then how can you make an image a certain size to fit your control panel to be printed at Kinko's ?
It is simple - figure out the dimensions, then go to *new* and create a file that fits those dimensions. Depending on CPU & memory - you may have to scale the size down - maybe cut it in half or fourth, but keep the proportions right. Place/make images that you wanted on there...burn and take to Kinko's as a jpg...
-:bluu:

[sixtymhz]

Rodo's stick he made for me:

http://zodiac08.hypermart.net/2002/joystick.jpg
http://zodiac08.hypermart.net/2002/joystick1.jpg
http://zodiac08.hypermart.net/2002/joystick2.jpg
http://zodiac08.hypermart.net/2002/joystick3.jpg

EDIT:
And yes, I requested buttons to be placed like that.
I'm an agetec whore.

[Running Uppercut]

Originally posted by sixtymhz
Rodo's stick he made for me:

http://zodiac08.hypermart.net/2002/joystick.jpg
http://zodiac08.hypermart.net/2002/joystick1.jpg
http://zodiac08.hypermart.net/2002/joystick2.jpg
http://zodiac08.hypermart.net/2002/joystick3.jpg

EDIT:
And yes, I requested buttons to be placed like that.
I'm an agetec whore.

Looks awsome to me. ^_^

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by Unreallystic
It is simple - figure out the dimensions, then go to *new* and create a file that fits those dimensions. Depending on CPU & memory - you may have to scale the size down - maybe cut it in half or fourth, but keep the proportions right. Place/make images that you wanted on there...burn and take to Kinko's as a jpg...
-:bluu:

How the fuck do I figure out the dimensions? I don't want to mess with numbers and be typing in 23333098X329800008 and shit like that. I'm at work, so I guess I have to try to figure it out when I get home (and hopefully my mouse will not freeze on me)

Thanks for the info though. Does anyone have that problem, it usually happens to me when I run Adobe ____whatever, then the mouse freezes and so does the rest of the pc and I can't even alt+cntl+delete!!

[sixtymhz]

Plays flawless!!

very very good stick. When he first starting making sticks, he made me one a little smaller, but it just didn't cut it. So he redid this one from an agetec I gave him. It looks big, but its really not. Your hands and forearms sit good on it. Only bad thing about it, which he didn't know, and its all trail and error anyways, is the plexi glass is sharp, and the edge can put my ferrets eyes out. If not stab myself :-P

Good stuff tho

[sixtymhz]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO


How the fuck do I figure out the dimensions? I don't want to mess with numbers and be typing in 23333098X329800008 and shit like that. I'm at work, so I guess I have to try to figure it out when I get home (and hopefully my mouse will not freeze on me)

Thanks for the info though. Does anyone have that problem, it usually happens to me when I run Adobe ____whatever, then the mouse freezes and so does the rest of the pc and I can't even alt+cntl+delete!!

I just got Adobe installed on my MACs here at work. Woo hoo!!
I'm a Photoshop(7) whore as well ^_^

Now to get better than dragonkahn :)

[Unreallystic]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO


How the fuck do I figure out the dimensions? I don't want to mess with numbers and be typing in 23333098X329800008 and shit like that. I'm at work, so I guess I have to try to figure it out when I get home (and hopefully my mouse will not freeze on me)

Thanks for the info though. Does anyone have that problem, it usually happens to me when I run Adobe ____whatever, then the mouse freezes and so does the rest of the pc and I can't even alt+cntl+delete!! Uninstall and reinstall - it is a glitch I used to get in 5.5 because of a registry error - I think I was running a program when installing it and it messed up the installation somewhere. Once I re-installed - I never saw the problem again. To determine the dimensions - take a rule to the board and measure it in inches or cm - depending on preference. Then in photoshop - when you create new - change the units to inches or cm. If you know you don't want a picture *that* detailed *alot of computers not made for it will slow down* - simple cut the size in half or fourth...like if the board is 26 inches wide and 14 inches long - then in photoshop create new at say "13 inches by 7" or "6.5 by 3.5" to save on processing and memory power/resources.

Good photoshop site to get good using...
http://rainworld.com/psworkshop/
-:bluu:

[Running Uppercut]

Originally posted by sixtymhz
Plays flawless!!

very very good stick. When he first starting making sticks, he made me one a little smaller, but it just didn't cut it. So he redid this one from an agetec I gave him. It looks big, but its really not. Your hands and forearms sit good on it. Only bad thing about it, which he didn't know, and its all trail and error anyways, is the plexi glass is sharp, and the edge can put my ferrets eyes out. If not stab myself :-P

Good stuff tho

Ferrets are cool. :cool:

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by Unreallystic
Uninstall and reinstall - it is a glitch I used to get in 5.5 because of a registry error - I think I was running a program when installing it and it messed up the installation somewhere. Once I re-installed - I never saw the problem again. To determine the dimensions - take a rule to the board and measure it in inches or cm - depending on preference. Then in photoshop - when you create new - change the units to inches or cm. If you know you don't want a picture *that* detailed *alot of computers not made for it will slow down* - simple cut the size in half or fourth...like if the board is 26 inches wide and 14 inches long - then in photoshop create new at say "13 inches by 7" or "6.5 by 3.5" to save on processing and memory power/resources.

Good photoshop site to get good using...
http://rainworld.com/psworkshop/
-:bluu:

Ahh yeah!! It's on now, wait till I get home and re-install PS7. I'll be playing around with it a bit.

[Yansoma]

Hey can you post a link to your overlay, thats the one I was talking about previously.

[Running Uppercut]

Man, my order at Happ was supposed to be shipped out today, but nooooooooooooooo. Fucktards... Still waiting for my sticks and buttons...:(

[Maximum Burst]

cd_vision produces the hott ass custom sticks.

[Ataru]

http://www.the-magicbox.com/ made the wallpaper. Last time i was on that page i didnt see it. All i have is my Photoshoped edit.

[N-Ken]

Hmm I probably wasn't clear earlier, sorry. I wanted to know if anyone has links to sites that have Fighting game jpg's that I could stick on the Joystick, I cant draw worth crap. Thanks

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Just use the magical powers of the all mighty Photoshop 7

[N-Ken]

So you mean draw stuff or just take random jpg's and resize them? Also How much does it cost or whatever?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

I got mine *cough* for free... you can get someone to a) copy thiers for you b) download the program yourself, or c) buy it online or somewhere. I don't know, all I know is that I had a friend of mine burn me a copy.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Okay, for the confirmation of the DC arcade stick, 'The Enforcer', here it is...

I was able to get myself one at EB's, brand new, for $5.99. I took it home and the first thing I did was opened the bad boy up to see if it can be used as a SOLDER FREE project. Well, it looks hella easy to make this work, but the only solder free part would be the stick. The buttons you would have to solder wires onto and the copper joints on it are large and some have holes in them for ridiculously easy soldering. The ground trace is also easy to locate and should be no problem to solder. Comes with a VMU slot and turbo/slow mo features (which aren't used if you plan to make sticks-unless you want to go through more trouble) I'm going to take it back, since I have no time for soldering or messing up for that matter and will get my money back and add it towards my pre-order of Zelda :D

Again... the DC Enforcer will require soldering when it comes down to the buttons, everything else is SOLDER FREE. Try to find one at EB's, not eBay cuz I see them for like $14 or something when you can get one brand new cheaper.

[Running Uppercut]

Happcontrols took 11 days to shipp my 18 buttons and 2 joysticks. All of the stuff was in stock. This kinda pissed me off and I will be trying to find other sellers in the future.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by RunningUppercut
Happcontrols took 11 days to shipp my 18 buttons and 2 joysticks. All of the stuff was in stock. This kinda pissed me off and I will be trying to find other sellers in the future.

Well you have to understand that many parts were on backorder during the holidays so... I got my parts in 7 days (that was before Xmas and all that) They have to wait for the invoice so they can add the freight cost, then when they do ship it, you'll get a tracking number with a time and date it should arrive. I ordered my parts on the 9th and got them on the 16th at 5:50 pm ET.

Do you mean that eBay auction with those buttons and sticks? Cuz that'll be different and wasn't Happcontrols, plus they have to wait for the payment to go through and other shit like that . Well all I got to say is: I don't know where you plan to get your parts next time, unless it's through those other 'sellers' I have in the links on the first page, but Happcontrols have always been good to me when it comes to shipping and so forth.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

http://zodiac08.hypermart.net/2002/joystick2.jpg
http://zodiac08.hypermart.net/2002/joystick3.jpg

Pictures he took of the stick I made him, The Black Beast :D

[Running Uppercut]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO


Well you have to understand that many parts were on backorder during the holidays so... I got my parts in 7 days (that was before Xmas and all that) They have to wait for the invoice so they can add the freight cost, then when they do ship it, you'll get a tracking number with a time and date it should arrive. I ordered my parts on the 9th and got them on the 16th at 5:50 pm ET.

Do you mean that eBay auction with those buttons and sticks? Cuz that'll be different and wasn't Happcontrols, plus they have to wait for the payment to go through and other shit like that . Well all I got to say is: I don't know where you plan to get your parts next time, unless it's through those other 'sellers' I have in the links on the first page, but Happcontrols have always been good to me when it comes to shipping and so forth.

I ordered everything off of their web site on Dec 31. The competition sticks were out os stock until Jan 6, and that I understand. But for my shit not to be shipped until Jan 9 just seems a little rediculous. All I ordered was 2 competition sticks and 18 buttons and a few extra microswitches. What is so fucking hard about that? So, they told me it would be 4 days until I get my shit cuz I live in Cali. Oh well. Having a weekend tournament on my new cabinet will have to wait till next weekend.:p

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by RunningUppercut


I ordered everything off of their web site on Dec 31. The competition sticks were out os stock until Jan 6, and that I understand. But for my shit not to be shipped until Jan 9 just seems a little rediculous. All I ordered was 2 competition sticks and 18 buttons and a few extra microswitches. What is so fucking hard about that? So, they told me it would be 4 days until I get my shit cuz I live in Cali. Oh well. Having a weekend tournament on my new cabinet will have to wait till next weekend.:p

Yeah, there was a back order on comp j/s in dec. A friend of mine (who post on CT) had his comp j/s on back order and got his on the 9th. You have two options. Ship everything complete, or get some parts then, and the wait for the backorder. I always get ship complete. Goo thing I didn't ordered any parts in Dec, else I be pissed too... gotta hate back orders, especially when it comes down to games and consoles :D

[Running Uppercut]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO


Yeah, there was a back order on comp j/s in dec. A friend of mine (who post on CT) had his comp j/s on back order and got his on the 9th. You have two options. Ship everything complete, or get some parts then, and the wait for the backorder. I always get ship complete. Goo thing I didn't ordered any parts in Dec, else I be pissed too... gotta hate back orders, especially when it comes down to games and consoles :D

I had it all ship complete, cuz what good are buttons w/o a stick?:p

[RANDoM_MAI]

Hi

I have some questions about making a stick.

1. What is the best joystick to use for making the still? Like which one is the best to use and install, competition, ultimate, supers?

2. Do i have to use all 8 buttons on the psx pad?

3. Is there a page other then cd-vision and arcadecontrol that shows step by step instruction? Like Arcade sticks for Dummies?

4. What are some common problems that i will run into? some hints before i start making.

5. Whats the best way to start?

6. Where can i buy the joystick and buttons for cheap? other the happs. i would like competition buttons.

7. Where can i find out how to make those cool pictures like metalslug and sav does? Like the legth and width and how to make it look cool and stuff.

Hope someone can help me.

~RaNDoM

[Running Uppercut]

Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI

1. What is the best joystick to use for making the still? Like which one is the best to use and install, competition, ultimate, supers?
~RaNDoM
I like competitions. Some people swear by Perfect 360's. Others love supers. It is all personal preference. All of the arcades I play at use competition sticks, so that is what I use at home.
Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI

2. Do i have to use all 8 buttons on the psx pad?
~RaNDoM

You don't have to include L1 and L2, but if you plan on playing games like Mortal Kombat: DA like I do, you will need the extra 2 buttons. It is generally a good idea to install all 8 buttons cuz you don't know when you will need them.
Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI

3. Is there a page other then cd-vision and arcadecontrol that shows step by step instruction? Like Arcade sticks for Dummies?
~RaNDoM
Basically it works like this: order your buttons and sticks. It takes a couple of days to get those. Then build your box. RoTeNdO gave tons of good links in the first page of this thread. Making a stick just takes a little bit of research. Eventally you will understand everything and come up with a design of you won.
Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI

4. What are some common problems that i will run into? some hints before i start making.
~RaNDoM
Soldering will probably be your biggest problem, and actually understanding the electronics board that you take from the controller. You have to know if the pad has 1 or 2 grounds, and you have to make sure that everything is properly grounded. Just do some good reading and you will get it.
Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI

5. Whats the best way to start?
~RaNDoM

Understand what you are getting into. If you don't have a decent saw, a soldering gun, drill, and enough money to buy all of the little pieces you will run into money problems. Order the buttons and sticks, buy the wood, paint, nails, contact paper,
1 1/8 drill bit, and wood glue. Build that mofo. Then decide where you want your stick and buttons and drill that shit. There are templates available online that are good to use for this. Then go buy your controller to hack, 16-18 gauge wire from Home Depot, quick disconnects, and soldering supplies. Maybe a pair of wire strippers if you don't have them yet. When the sticks and stuff arrive, do all of your soldering and finish that puppy.
Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI

6. Where can i buy the joystick and buttons for cheap? other the happs. i would like competition buttons.
~RaNDoM

Buy from Happ. They have competition buttons too...:p Sticks run about 12 dollars each and 40 dollars for a Perfect 360. Buttons are $1.85 each I think. And remember, when you order buttons and sticks, they come with the microswitches included, which is cool. :)
Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI

7. Where can i find out how to make those cool pictures like metalslug and sav does? Like the legth and width and how to make it look cool and stuff.
~RaNDoM
Do you have Photoshop or something like it? Make a background yourself. In the links provided there are some that you can download. Save it on a disk, and take it to a Kinkos or print shop. Have them make it to the dimensions you need. Or you could have someone in Image Mishmash possible make one for you.

I hope I helped you. Any more questions?:D

[RANDoM_MAI]

man i'm just sitting here at school killing time before class starts and i notice that i wasn't the last to post a message. Thanks for all the reply. i acually i have one more question.

I noctice that some people say that they made the stick without soldering. How do you do that?

~RaNDoM

[SominexII]

Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI
Hi

I have some questions about making a stick.

1. What is the best joystick to use for making the still? Like which one is the best to use and install, competition, ultimate, supers?


~RaNDoM

Don't get Ultimates as they're the worst as far as getting your diagonals when gettin your game on. Get Competitions or Supers for your first and if you're daring (following the instructions on the first through third pages of this thread) go for Perfect 360s.

[Running Uppercut]

Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI
man i'm just sitting here at school killing time before class starts and i notice that i wasn't the last to post a message. Thanks for all the reply. i acually i have one more question.

I noctice that some people say that they made the stick without soldering. How do you do that?

~RaNDoM
You actually buy a cheap ass joystick and you can use all of the wires from that to connect you your buttons. It seems that RoTeNdo swears but this method. I would have done it, but since I made a 2 player cabinet, it seemed to expensive to me to buy 2 joysticks. Here is my cabinet I made.
http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/pubimage.asp?id_=1287475

[SominexII]

Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI
man i'm just sitting here at school killing time before class starts and i notice that i wasn't the last to post a message. Thanks for all the reply. i acually i have one more question.

I noctice that some people say that they made the stick without soldering. How do you do that?

~RaNDoM

If you buy a joystick say like the "Fighter's Choice" joystick that I have, you can take the old joystick out and put one of your choice in there using the wires from the old quick connect and mounting some metal quick disconnects on the extension wires. What I did was wired the original wires to a wiring block and then screwed some extension wires and crimped on the metal quick disconnects on the ends to connect them to the joystick. The rest was just making an extension base on the bottom since the stick extended way too low for the original base. The original buttons are still being used on the stick (rubber springs) and they work decent and haven't worn out on me yet.

[FMJaguar]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO

Again... the DC Enforcer will require soldering when it comes down to the buttons, everything else is SOLDER FREE. Try to find one at EB's, not eBay cuz I see them for like $14 or something when you can get one brand new cheaper.

Ha that was excatly what i was thinking of, now i know thx. But if the solder points are pretty big (and pre-drilled holes!) the enforcer might not be a bad buy for 5.99.

EDIT: it's not on EB's site anymore, do you have a SKU so i can call the store.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by RunningUppercut

It seems that RoTeNdo swears but this method.

Yep! :D All my projects are SOLDER FREE baby!

1) you find a joystick/controller that connects their buttons and joystick/d-pad by wires from the pcb.

2) you then disconnect them from the buttons and d-pad/joystick and label them. *don't disconnect from the pcb*

3) buy some 8/12 way barrier strips (2 or so) the white ones at Radio Shack (no spade connectors needed either)

4) buy some .22 awg wire, and but ### wires all the same length (solid or stranded, doesn't matter)

5) run the wires from the pcb all to one side of 1 barrier strips (I use two barrier strips; one for the buttons alone and another for the directions, up, down, left, etc...) Don't forget the ground wires too.

6) next, simply run the wires on the other side of the barrier strip/s and label them

7) crimp the female quick disconnects to the end of those wires that you just labled. (daisy chain the groud wire for the buttons and for the directions, then crimp them.

8) now that you have everything wired, fasten down the barrier strips to the bottom of the enclosure or somewhere close to the pcb. That way, no matter what happens and if it were to open up and the lid or whatever opens accidently all the way, the wires from the pcb will not get yanked out from the barrier strip or it.

9) *optional* neatly connect the wires to the micro switches and then use some sort of fasteners to have them running alongside of the corners/bottom or whatever to keep it organized, then use mini tie-ties to help (a lot easier to close the top of the enclosure without having wires sticking out of everywhere!)

and that's about it...

I use two color wires. red for everything and then black for the ground. This method is alot neater than soldering (IMO), and quicker. Another reason to use mini ties is to keep the other wires from bumping into each other causing it to get loose from the microswitch inside and having a button not work, but that can be avoided by just using .187 female disconnects that fits snugly and tightly onto the micro switches. :D

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by FMJaguar


Ha that was excatly what i was thinking of, now i know thx. But if the solder points are pretty big (and pre-drilled holes!) the enforcer might not be a bad buy for 5.99.

EDIT: it's not on EB's site anymore, do you have a SKU so i can call the store.

yeah, I'll post it once I get home (work) cuz I'm returning it. I don't like soldering and I have an agetec on the way anyway that I got off eBay. Hopefully the EB close to you carries them (in the stockroom anyway).

[FMJaguar]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO


yeah, I'll post it once I get home (work) cuz I'm returning it. I don't like soldering and I have an agetec on the way anyway that I got off eBay. Hopefully the EB close to you carries them (in the stockroom anyway).

lol i wondered what you meant by solder free, you just use barrier strips instead of solder lol. I too can't really solder, so the work arounds i've used are to drill small holes or buy a joystick with pre drilled holes, it basically makes the soldering trivial, you just need solder so it doesn't fall out of the hole. It's easy to aim a small drill into the relatively bigger pad, whereas the solder has a mind of it's own sometimes after you melt it. It's also more secure since the wire never pulls the solder out.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

The first time I tried using a pcb that needed to be soldered onto, I had a terribly hard time doing it (also my first attempt :D) Takes time so I said to myself, "fuck this shit!!, I don't have time for patience.", and thus I experimented by opening up my PS Arcade that I use to use to play SF games on my PSX and when I saw the inside I chuckled to myself :lol:, that's what I'm talking about. Wires already soldered, and glued for me!! So it begins...

[RANDoM_MAI]

i have this POS laying around in my house

http://www.bestbuy.com/videogames/productinfo.asp?e=11067841&m=937&cat=969&scat=1101

its a pelican joystick for the ps2.

Do u think i can use this to make a solder free joystick?

~RaNDoM

[Running Uppercut]

Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI
i have this POS laying around in my house

http://www.bestbuy.com/videogames/productinfo.asp?e=11067841&m=937&cat=969&scat=1101

its a pelican joystick for the ps2.

Do u think i can use this to make a solder free joystick?

~RaNDoM
Take that MOFO apart and take a look at it.

[RANDoM_MAI]

here are the insides. sorry i will try to get better pics.

~RaNDoM

[RANDoM_MAI]

sorry i'm new,

how can you post moe then one pic?
also how do you quote peoples text?

[Running Uppercut]

Can't see shit on those pictures. Use a flash.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by RunningUppercut
Can't see shit on those pictures. Use a flash.

Yeah, please, use more lighting or something. I can't see anything either. I can barely make out some sort of wires, but we'll wait for some better pics.

[m3talslug]

Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI

1. What is the best joystick to use for making the still? Like which one is the best to use and install, competition, ultimate, supers?

2. Do i have to use all 8 buttons on the psx pad?

3. Is there a page other then cd-vision and arcadecontrol that shows step by step instruction? Like Arcade sticks for Dummies?

4. What are some common problems that i will run into? some hints before i start making.

5. Whats the best way to start?

6. Where can i buy the joystick and buttons for cheap? other the happs. i would like competition buttons.

7. Where can i find out how to make those cool pictures like metalslug and sav does? Like the legth and width and how to make it look cool and stuff.

~RaNDoM

1) Even though the 360s are a bit expensive I still think they're worth it. Team USA brought P360s to their Japan trip in case they couldn't find american controls. For a cheaper alternative, you can go with the Wico P360s. P360s are all made by the company "Perfect 360". Wico and Happ just rebrands them.
http://www.wicothesource.com/393.html <-- there's the link

2)You don't have to use all 8. But I recommend that you do in case you decide to buy adapters for other consoles.

3)Dunno, but once you get started, it's a lot easier than it seems

4)take your time. Don't rush. Especially with the soldering. If your soldering is weak, many people solder + caulk. i.e. after they solder the joint onto the PCB, they use a caulking substance to cover the PCB so the wires/solder joints don't move. <-- make sure the caulking substance is safe with plastics.

Stick to a layout that matches your arcade. I.e. Straight line buttons, 1.5" button spacing(center to center), etc. Going for an ergonomic layout may feel better however, you might have a hard time doing air combos when you switch to a straight layout.

Stick with parts that match your arcade.

5)As someone on this thread already mentioned, order in the parts, and build the box while the parts are coming in.

6)try http://www.therealbobroberts.com

7)After I determined the size of my box, I opened a new file in Photoshop and specified the size in inches, cm, whatever you're comfortable with. Cut and paste pictures that you like filling it. Overlay the top layer with drilling points and you're ready to go.

[SominexII]

Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI
here are the insides. sorry i will try to get better pics.

~RaNDoM

If you don't have a flash..............try using a bright light on the object.

I'd be interested to know about this stick because I have one amongst my crap stick collection :D

[RANDoM_MAI]

i found a old lamp in the garage. so here is a new pic.

I have new questions.
Would it be easier to use a Dreamcast controler/joystick to make a solder free project? i have lots of regular DC controllers and i have one enforcer joystick. also has anyone tried using the "magic box adapter" to play on xbox? either with DC or ps2 controllers?


~RaNDoM

[Cardhero]

what sticks do you think are the best?hard spring,soft or medium?

[blood_sin]

Why are you guys afraid to solder? It's not that hard to learn, you can get a soldering iron from walmart for 5 dollars and a coil of solder for 1 dollar. Your connections will be more reliable if they are soldered anyway.

cardhero: medium

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by blood_sin
Why are you guys afraid to solder? It's not that hard to learn, you can get a soldering iron from walmart for 5 dollars and a coil of solder for 1 dollar. Your connections will be more reliable if they are soldered anyway.

cardhero: medium

Who's afraid of soldering? :eek: Who also said that it was hard? :confused: I have a soldering gun, and rosoin coil and etc... to solder shit with. I already said that for me, it was faster and less of a hassle.

Connections reliable? I think that's more of a preference. I never had any problems with the 'connections', with the method I use. It's all in your head if you ask me if you were to say something like that. Soldered/Non-Soldered, 'connections' plays the same. Well... that answers your question, but thanks for asking anyway :D

[Voodoo]

Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI
i found a old lamp in the garage. so here is a new pic.
You have to be able to see the other side of the board (where the buttons touch) to be able to see if you can really use it.

[blood_sin]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO


Who's afraid of soldering? :eek: Who also said that it was hard? :confused: I have a soldering gun, and rosoin coil and etc... to solder shit with. I already said that for me, it was faster and less of a hassle.

Connections reliable? I think that's more of a preference. I never had any problems with the 'connections', with the method I use. It's all in your head if you ask me if you were to say something like that. Soldered/Non-Soldered, 'connections' plays the same. Well... that answers your question, but thanks for asking anyway :D

If you're not one of those people who is afraid to solder, then I wasnt talking to you. I mentioned that because theres always people asking about how to make sticks without soldering, and I wanted to tell them its not that bad. Again, If doesnt apply to you, why respond to me?

[MrSimpson]

Ok I think someone already posted a link and asked a similar question, but does anyone have links to japanese arcade parts?

[SominexII]

Originally posted by MrSimpson
Ok I think someone already posted a link and asked a similar question, but does anyone have links to japanese arcade parts?

So far this is the only one I know of......


http://www.ultimarc.com/controls.html

[RANDoM_MAI]

i decided to use a psx sony pad to make a stick with. i wanna be able to use adpaters for it to use on xbox and i heard some third party controllers dun work. i was wondering if someone had use a pad before and can show me where to solder the ground and hot wires at. i think metalslug used the same pad as me. if you can help that would be great.

~RaNDoM

[SominexII]

Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI
i decided to use a psx sony pad to make a stick with. i wanna be able to use adpaters for it to use on xbox and i heard some third party controllers dun work. i was wondering if someone had use a pad before and can show me where to solder the ground and hot wires at. i think metalslug used the same pad as me. if you can help that would be great.

~RaNDoM

Check CD_Vision's recommended controller list

http://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/pads.htm

CD-V's site also shows soldering pics.

[RANDoM_MAI]

i wanna use a sony pad because i want to use an adapter to make it work for xbox. alot of third party don't work for the adapters.

~RaNDoM

[RANDoM_MAI]

can i use the gold color spot near the black swirls to solder on?

here is a pic

~RaNDoM

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI
can i use the gold color spot near the black swirls to solder on?

here is a pic

~RaNDoM

Yes, you can use those copper 'joints' or whatever you want to call them to solder onto, make sure you locate the ground as well. Those are perfect.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Just to let you 'builders' know. The prices of parts have risen a bit. 30¢ in sticks and only 5¢ on buttons. I've spent $108.70 today (supposedly saving 20%) but last month or so, it would have cost me a lot less including the '20%' discount until March 2003) :rolleyes: Anyway, I ordered today 01/13/03 and should get them within 7 days.

[m3talslug]

Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI
can i use the gold color spot near the black swirls to solder on?

here is a pic

~RaNDoM

Yeah you can solder on those copper points. BTW, which pad is that?

[LeMouton]

i got a 360 stick does anyone know how to loosen it a bit ?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by LeMouton
i got a 360 stick does anyone know how to loosen it a bit ?

Breaking it in is one way or try to find an old joystick and use it's worn down (soft) spring. I don't know if they sell 'soft' springs.

[RANDoM_MAI]

the pad with the pic was the psx sony pad with the dual shocks. here is a pic of the old ass sony pad. i can't tell which copper spots to use on this old pad. there is no spot near the x button and the down has two near it .start and selet have like a million. any help?


also i wanna use plexiglass for the top of the pad. is there a thickness of glass i have to get? also since i use the glass, would i have to use a thinner piece of wood for the top, to make the wood and glass equal 3/4?

~RaNDoM

[Running Uppercut]

Hey guys. Take a look at the pad I am going to be using for my project. It is a Gamestop brand controller, 6 bucks. It actually looks like a really easy controller to work on, but tell me what you guys think. http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/pubimage.asp?id_=1368530
http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/pubimage.asp?id_=1368531

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by RunningUppercut
Hey guys. Take a look at the pad I am going to be using for my project. It is a Gamestop brand controller, 6 bucks. It actually looks like a really easy controller to work on, but tell me what you guys think. http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/pubimage.asp?id_=1368530
http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/pubimage.asp?id_=1368531

Those, are great pics! Fuck yeah! You have copper points everywhere! Should be a breeze soldering with those.


RANDoM_MAI: Yes, use a thinner board like 5/8 size for the top. You don't have to worry about the joystick being short, or the screw bezels screwing on correctly for the buttons. If you go 3/4, you'll have to route out the wood for the joystick box, so that the shaft of the stick will show more and you won't have just a short knob sticking out on top.

[m3talslug]

Looks easy to work with. Are those digital only controls? I know some of the Digital controls have problems working with PS2 -> USB (PC) adapters.



Originally posted by RunningUppercut
Hey guys. Take a look at the pad I am going to be using for my project. It is a Gamestop brand controller, 6 bucks. It actually looks like a really easy controller to work on, but tell me what you guys think. http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/pubimage.asp?id_=1368530
http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/pubimage.asp?id_=1368531

[cowpaste]

p360s are fun and all, but I am poor. :(

So, I bought a Happ's Super Joystick. After installing it and all, I am really disappointed. The stick's corners are ultra sensitive. I keep on jumping when I'm supposed to be dashing or walking forward/backward. Does everyone who uses supers find this to be a problem? I heard so many people say how great they are for their price. This stick is in no way similar to the 360s are my arcade at all.

Anyway, does anyone know a way to fix this?

[m3talslug]

That sounds terrible. You sure you didn't pick up the ultimates instead of the super? <-- the ultimates have a "square" actuator which presses against all the microswitches.


Originally posted by cowpaste
p360s are fun and all, but I am poor. :(

So, I bought a Happ's Super Joystick. After installing it and all, I am really disappointed. The stick's corners are ultra sensitive. I keep on jumping when I'm supposed to be dashing or walking forward/backward. Does everyone who uses supers find this to be a problem? I heard so many people say how great they are for their price. This stick is in no way similar to the 360s are my arcade at all.

Anyway, does anyone know a way to fix this?

[splits]

This thread has been very informative, thank you very much.

I've built sticks before, and now I'm looking to make one with Japanese (Sanwa) parts. However it is proving quite hard to find them for sale.

I've Tried Arcade Infinity (http://www.arcade-infinity.com/), who lists a vague Item called "Add 6 Button Setup To Jamma Cabinet." & "Japanese Arcade" Buttons. Unfortunately, they haven't responded to my question e-mail asking what this "6 button setup" exactly entails (and whether or not its parts are Sanwa-made). It's quite frustrating. Has someone ordered parts from them and give me some details, or some info on their reliability?

Sanwa (http://www.sanwa-d.co.jp) themselves will not accept international orders.

Ultimarc (http://www.ultimarc.com/) Carries the Sanwa stick, but not the buttons. So they are out.


Coin Express (http://www.coinopexpress.com/) carries the parts, but they won't ship me anything other than a bulk order.

Could someone point me in the right direction or recommend a seller/course of action?

Thank you,

-splits

[SominexII]

Originally posted by cowpaste
p360s are fun and all, but I am poor. :(

So, I bought a Happ's Super Joystick. After installing it and all, I am really disappointed. The stick's corners are ultra sensitive. I keep on jumping when I'm supposed to be dashing or walking forward/backward. Does everyone who uses supers find this to be a problem? I heard so many people say how great they are for their price. This stick is in no way similar to the 360s are my arcade at all.

Anyway, does anyone know a way to fix this?

I use a Happ Super and do just fine with it and found it a huge improvement over the Ultimate I used to have. Do you see metal arms on the bottom that help the actuator contact the microswitch buttons? I don't have that particular problem you're referring to and that sounds more like something that would be characteristic of an Ultimate.

[vmct]

**Selling Brand New Official Sega Dremcast Arcade Stick**
the green stick/button just like Japanese Cabinets

if anyone's interested go to this thread

http://shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19663

thank you

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Only two left now cuz I got one locked down!! First come, first served, suckas!! :lol: j/k

I use competition joysticks and never have any problems with the 'corners' or anything. Neither with ultimate joysticks. It's all preference and the way you hold your STICK I guess (haha) :D

[frog213]

first off, I'd like to say it's a about fucking time this thread became sticky. good job to everyone who has posted their sticks or has built one/many and doesn't have a way to show the SRK community.(like me :p ) and a thank u to peeps like m3talslug and rotendo who helped me like a year ago when i was in the construction process. :D

SominexII
why u hatin' on an ultimate? I think u've only expierenced it through the soft/standard spring? the hard spring makes it a completly different stick. basically I've never played on a P360 but I hold them in the highest regards, but at the same time I'm a 3S fan all-the-way and I need the joystick to return to neutral. I rate the ult.w/ H-spring #2, and P360 #1. but I also haven't played on jap. stix so I can't really make a final judgement.

speaking of jap. stix my friend in chi. said the arcade up there called "the hip" (namco arcade but has 1 mvc2 cab) has all jap. equip. and he said he loves it and he's been a HAPP ult. player like me all his life. so splits if u here anything I'm interested!?

I want to post a pic of my stick but I don't have a dig. camera:( but I'm wanting to get a dig. camcorder w/ still capability, I've started a thread and if anyone knows ANYTHING about them, please respond cause I've never owned/used one and I would sure appreciate the help ..... "shamelessplug" :depress:

http://shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19617

thanks

[m3talslug]

Name me a stick that doesn't return to neutral <-- Every single stick I've used returns to neutral... even a busted old Jap stick with a totally worn out loose spring.

Originally posted by frog213
I'm a 3S fan all-the-way and I need the joystick to return to neutral. I rate the ult.w/ H-spring #2, and P360 #1.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by frog213
first off, I'd like to say it's a about fucking time this thread became sticky. good job to everyone who has posted their sticks or has built one/many and doesn't have a way to show the SRK community.(like me :p ) and a thank u to peeps like m3talslug and rotendo who helped me like a year ago when i was in the construction process. :D


thanks

Hey, no problem man. That's what we're here for, to help each other. :D It's also why I made this thread to begin with. Hope we can see how you stick came out soon.

[Running Uppercut]

Ok. Here is a pic I edited, and from what I can see there isn't a copper point for L2, Start, or select. So does this mean i am going to have to try to barely solder onto the point where the button would have come down?
http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/pubimage.asp?id_=1368986

[RANDoM_MAI]

has anybody opeded up the shadowblade stick by interact? or the really small one by interact? If so can i use that for a solderless project?

also when i went to radioshack they had like 20 didn't kind of quick disconnects. which should i get? ones that fit 22 gauge wire? female ,male? i dun understand. sorry i'm totally new to the building things scene.



~RaNDoM

[Voodoo]

From Happ:
.187" Female Fully Insulated Quick Disconnect for use on 18-22 AWG Wire

You can't get just females from Radio Shack sadly. But they do have bags of both male and female QDs that are cheap enough you can just pitch the male ones.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by Voodoo
From Happ:
.187" Female Fully Insulated Quick Disconnect for use on 18-22 AWG Wire


Those are perfect fit. Try Lowe's, they should have female quick disconnect in a pack of 100 for only like $5-$7 I think. They have a smaller size pack and I know that they carry female alone packs. What type of wire you're using? Use the 22 awg stranded or single, doesn't matter.

[RANDoM_MAI]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO


Those are perfect fit. Try Lowe's, they should have female quick disconnect in a pack of 100 for only like $5-$7 I think. They have a smaller size pack and I know that they carry female alone packs. What type of wire you're using? Use the 22 awg stranded or single, doesn't matter.

what does AWG stranded wire mean. i have 22 gauge speaker wire that is stranded. is that ok??

~RaNDoM

[RANDoM_MAI]

sorry but i must be really dumb. how do i put the quick disconnect on the microswitc?
i put the wire threw one side, crimp it and then what do i do to attach it to the microswitch?

~RaNDoM

[cowpaste]

Originally posted by SominexII


I use a Happ Super and do just fine with it and found it a huge improvement over the Ultimate I used to have. Do you see metal arms on the bottom that help the actuator contact the microswitch buttons? I don't have that particular problem you're referring to and that sounds more like something that would be characteristic of an Ultimate.

I am quite sure I have a Super. I have metal leaves and a round actuator. I don't understand why nobody else is having this problem. The stick works fine, it's just that the corners are way too sensitive. :(

It's really driving me nuts. Today I did a dash into a c. forward, and I ended up doing a normal jump into a double jump with a j. forward attack. It was wonderful not being able to block all the way down. Yay!

[The Turn Waster]

I have a question with cvs2 coming out for x-box live and the x-box sticks sucking is there a way to make your own stick for the x-box cause the Ps2 to x-box converter only works with dual shock ps2 cont. and not any of my sticks

x-box pads= :lame:

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI


what does AWG stranded wire mean. i have 22 gauge speaker wire that is stranded. is that ok??

~RaNDoM

AWG= american wire gauge size. Hook up wire. That's perfect, yes it's ok. Just means that you have to twist the tip of the strands, that's all.

PCB= printed circuit board

For connecting the quick disconnects, this is what you do:
a) crimp on the .187 female quick disconnect onto the end of the wire(s). Make sure it's snug, but don't tug on it too hard or you might pull the damn thing straight out! What I do is strip the wire a good inch and then bend the tip, making a sort of 'U' close together then crimp.

b) insert tab a into tab b :lol: >>> The female quick disconnect should SLIDE onto the microswitch and fit snugly.

c) make sure the connections work (test it out in practice mode, and make sure every direction/buttons works)

and d) send me a check for $10!!

[frog213]

Originally posted by m3talslug
Name me a stick that doesn't return to neutral <-- Every single stick I've used returns to neutral... even a busted old Jap stick with a totally worn out loose spring.



well I heard P360s are hard to get used to for 3S because neutral is funny? parries are a little trickier?

but then again I've never used a P360:rolleyes:

[granite]

newbie here, I own a standard MAS stick with the ultimate stick, and ultimate buttons .. how hard would it be to replace the ultimate with a p360 and the ultimate buttons with convex ones?
would this require soldering ? or is it as easy as opening up the stick and swapping items ...

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by granite
newbie here, I own a standard MAS stick with the ultimate stick, and ultimate buttons .. how hard would it be to replace the ultimate with a p360 and the ultimate buttons with convex ones?
would this require soldering ? or is it as easy as opening up the stick and swapping items ...

Not hard at all. Just order the parts you want. What you would have to do is this...

1) Since the wires are soldered on the MAS sticks, just cut them off at the base of the soldering, re-strip it and crimp on some .187 female quick disconnects (insulated or non insulated) and for the joystick, the same thing.

2) Go to www.happcontrols.com and order the parts you want to replace. Should take about 7 days to get your order online (fast)

3) Get the parts, write a thank you note, and proceed to replacing the parts.

4) Connect the wires to their respective buttons and controls.

5) Close it up, and test that shit!!

6) Send a payment by either money order or paypal to me (RoTeNdO) for $10 US :D

7) Rock that shit hardcore!!!

any further questions, pm me.

[SominexII]

Originally posted by cowpaste


I am quite sure I have a Super. I have metal leaves and a round actuator. I don't understand why nobody else is having this problem. The stick works fine, it's just that the corners are way too sensitive. :(

It's really driving me nuts. Today I did a dash into a c. forward, and I ended up doing a normal jump into a double jump with a j. forward attack. It was wonderful not being able to block all the way down. Yay!

One of two issues here...

1. Either the leaf arms have been bent to accentuate the corners.

2. Spring tension may be different than what you're used to playing with.



You can try bending the arms to see if this fixes your problem. I didn't mess with mine and left them the way they came from Happ.

[Running Uppercut]

I got my competition stick yesterday, and I haven't had the chance to play on it yet cuz I didn't have the time to wire it. But it did feel like a real solid stick and i just liked the way it felt. When I finish my project in a day or 2 I will put up a finished product picture. Thanks to everyone who has helped me make this dream a reality. I mean, who doesn't want their own arcade set up at home?:D

[Dreaded Fist]

this is kinda late but rotendo, the link does work, u just gotta cut and paste it. And i was talkin about how you wanted a black stick with red buttons/joystick.

the bow down boah(boy) part was...I dunno why i said that.

heres the attachment.

[m3talslug]

Nah, P360s always return to center like any other joystick. In fact, there's no "microswitch bounce"(old overused busted joysticks) which can make parries easier.

Originally posted by frog213


well I heard P360s are hard to get used to for 3S because neutral is funny? parries are a little trickier?

but then again I've never used a P360:rolleyes:

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
this is kinda late but rotendo, the link does work, u just gotta cut and paste it. And i was talkin about how you wanted a black stick with red buttons/joystick.

the bow down boah(boy) part was...I dunno why i said that.

heres the attachment.

I've seen your stick in another thread I think. Anyway... I remember you saying something about not closing it or something.





*RED COMPETITION BUTTONS: They are on back order. They had a request for about 187 of them and they didn't have enough so, they are making some more, about 1,000 of them is what the lady told me and when they are done, they will get shipped. Just so you know if you ordered red competition buttons lately. :D

[VincentDelpino]

Originally posted by Burning Ranger
I have an official Sega Joystick for the DC (which was released in the US by Agetec). Everything except the joystick is good. What I want to do is move everything to a new case and replace the joystick. Does anyone have anything that would help me? What kind of stick should I replace it with (and will be compatible)? the buttons are made for thin metal housings. i doubt you can reuse them. i would just use the board and use all new buttons and a stick in a wooden housing

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by VincentDelpino
the buttons are made for thin metal housings. i doubt you can reuse them. i would just use the board and use all new buttons and a stick in a wooden housing

Where have you been these past 3 pages? :confused: He's using the grey plate, and moving it entirely to another casing. Not removing the buttons and the joystick. The agetec has a grey plate on top of the white plastic casing that can be removed using a star type screw driver. We've thought the same thing, and told him to do that until he expained it to use again what he was doing. :D It's okay... we assumed the same thing.

[sixtymhz]

RoTenDo:

wanna meet up one weekend, and build my stick together??
We'll take my agetec apart, take step by step and take pictures and make a page on how to make sticks?? I mean, it will help a lot of people out. It will take a while, but hell, be worth it. I'll host everything if needed.

- 60mhz

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by sixtymhz
RoTenDo:

wanna meet up one weekend, and build my stick together??
We'll take my agetec apart, take step by step and take pictures and make a page on how to make sticks?? I mean, it will help a lot of people out. It will take a while, but hell, be worth it. I'll host everything if needed.

- 60mhz

Yeah, that's cool. I got the tools and I'm comfortable using my own equipment. I'll bring them with me and my ruler. I'll even bring one of my PS Arcade to turn it into a stick as well (I have 3 left, new in box) NOT FOR SALE! :lol: Just in case some of you ask... Only thing that'll we'll have to buy is barrier strips. I guess I can use some of the parts... wait a minute. The parts come in Monday, so we can only do the dissecting part and the box building/hole drilling.

[cowpaste]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO


Not hard at all. Just order the parts you want. What you would have to do is this...

1) Since the wires are soldered on the MAS sticks, just cut them off at the base of the soldering, re-strip it and crimp on some .187 female quick disconnects (insulated or non insulated) and for the joystick, the same thing.

2) Go to www.happcontrols.com and order the parts you want to replace. Should take about 7 days to get your order online (fast)

3) Get the parts, write a thank you note, and proceed to replacing the parts.

4) Connect the wires to their respective buttons and controls.

5) Close it up, and test that shit!!

6) Send a payment by either money order or paypal to me (RoTeNdO) for $10 US :D

7) Rock that shit hardcore!!!

any further questions, pm me.

5[V]?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by cowpaste


5[V]?

I mean, close the lid/top/enclosure/box so that the panel is flant or whatever and so you can test the stick and controls.

[RANDoM_MAI]

thanks for all the help man. i thik i got this project down pak, yesterday i brought a pc board at radio shack and learned how to solder pretty good:D i think i'm gonna go all the way now and make a custom art with plexiglass top. i got a question about that. i notice on the sav stick that there is no sign of cartige bolts. how does he attach his plexiglass and art on the wood? also where can i find those cool pictures that he has. i have adobe photoshop 7 but i need the pics.

thanks everyone for all the help
~RaNDoM

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI
thanks for all the help man. i thik i got this project down pak, yesterday i brought a pc board at radio shack and learned how to solder pretty good:D i think i'm gonna go all the way now and make a custom art with plexiglass top. i got a question about that. i notice on the sav stick that there is no sign of cartige bolts. how does he attach his plexiglass and art on the wood? also where can i find those cool pictures that he has. i have adobe photoshop 7 but i need the pics.

thanks everyone for all the help
~RaNDoM

Most of the images he got from gamegen.com and went in ps7 and hooked it up. The bolts are underneath the artwork. What you do is use the bolts for the joystick base and fasten them down tightly. Depending on what type of board you're using, they'll either sink in themselves or you'll have to route a tiny bit for the bolt heads to sink in a little more. If you go to your local arcade, you'll notice that some games you won't see the bolts for the joystick and only on the corners and such. :D He probably uses some sort of adhesive for the artwork to stick on the wood over the holes and bolts.

[RANDoM_MAI]

Originally posted by RoTeNdO


Most of the images he got from gamegen.com and went in ps7 and hooked it up. The bolts are underneath the artwork. What you do is use the bolts for the joystick base and fasten them down tightly. Depending on what type of board you're using, they'll either sink in themselves or you'll have to route a tiny bit for the bolt heads to sink in a little more. If you go to your local arcade, you'll notice that some games you won't see the bolts for the joystick and only on the corners and such. :D He probably uses some sort of adhesive for the artwork to stick on the wood over the holes and bolts.

if he put the bolts under the artwork, how did he attach the plexiglass on top?

[Voodoo]

Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI
if he put the bolts under the artwork, how did he attach the plexiglass on top?
As long as the bolts are sunk below the surface of the wood, all it takes is some wood glue (or similar super-bonding product) to attach the plexiglass.

[Sir Bryan]

Can someone send me a jpg or gif for the soldering points on a regular DC pad? I can only find it for a Nyko pad.

[blood_sin]

Originally posted by Sir Bryan
Can someone send me a jpg or gif for the soldering points on a regular DC pad? I can only find it for a Nyko pad.

you cant use that pad because it has analog LR buttons. get a really cheap pad.

[Sir Bryan]

Originally posted by blood_sin


you cant use that pad because it has analog LR buttons. get a really cheap pad.

do you have any suggestions?

[RANDoM_MAI]

Originally posted by Voodoo

As long as the bolts are sunk below the surface of the wood, all it takes is some wood glue (or similar super-bonding product) to attach the plexiglass.

But wouldn't the glue or super bonding product mess up the artwork?

instead of plexiglass glass can't i just have kinkos make a big artwork and then laminate the art and then use the glue or superbonding product to attach it? if i laminate it can i drill the holes after? or will that mess up the paper in between?

~RaNDoM

[LBt1st]

I just found this thread and was going to link my goods but I see you guys have found my stuff already (Kevin's Badass...).

Since everyone seems to know what your doing, and someone just asked, here's a board detail for the normal DC Sega pad.
I do not have this on my site because I have blown my controller ports using this pad and I don't want it to happen to others. I've made a few sticks using this pad though so if your careful and only solder where it shows, you shouldn't have any problems.
The L and R's are quite hard to solder, so if this is your first time I recommend getting a 3rd party pad.

http://members.cox.net/joysticks/joystick_images/dc/Sega_Pad_Detail.gif


If you do manage to blow your controller ports, refer to this thread:
whats wrong with my Dreamcast??? (http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18377)

-LBt1st

[Voodoo]

Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI
But wouldn't the glue or super bonding product mess up the artwork?
Well, it might if you use glue like a first-grader. :lol: Just hit up the edges of the plexiglass. I guess it all depends on what your layers look like. Like, you don't *need* plexiglass.
instead of plexiglass glass can't i just have kinkos make a big artwork and then laminate the art and then use the glue or superbonding product to attach it?
Yes, you can. Ideally you'd print out the art on contact paper. Then you just peel off the back, stick it down (carefully), and work out any bubbles or anything. Most people use plexiglass just because it adds to the 'professional look', and it protects the art under it.
if i laminate it can i drill the holes after? or will that mess up the paper in between?
IMO, I would drill before you lay down the art. You have to line up your buttons how you'd like, and to make it even it usually requires drawing all over the wood. Then you can lay down the contact paper, punch out holes in it, install buttons, and wire it up.

Also lay out the plexiglass so you drill both the wood and pglass at the same time. Then move the piece of pglass, laydown the artwork, lay down the glass (attaching everything how you see fit), then finally punch out the holes.

[Magnetix(2)]

could someone kindly post me a li