How To Wire A P360

[Dreaded Fist]

OK folks, there have been a lot of questions about wiring p360s and what pad to use. The fact is, ALL controllers have a power current running through it that will provide power for the p360.

For the psx pads, shinjn have already made a post about it below but it is ALWAYS the center pin of the controller plug, no matter what controller type. For the sony pads, it is always the red wire tracing from that pin to the pcb. So if you don't have a multimeter, you can try that(it should work).

http://www.digikitten.com/playhousev2/files/ecko/p360hookup.jpg

And for the dreamcast pads, the blue wire tracing from the plug back to the pcb is always the 5v.

Once you've got that taken care of, just wire the black wire(ground) to any ground point on your pcb. You should use a seperate ground wire for the p360 than the ground for the buttons. In theory it should work if you just connect the black wire from the p360 to any COM(ground) tab on any microswitch since everything is tracing back and forth between the pcb and the microswitches, but I have always use a seperate ground wire for the p360 and it's always work.

This is pretty basic information but wiring a p360 stick is just that, very simple.

[doujinshi_2001]

Nice thread. Should help out lots of people who are planning to use a P360 in the near future(such as me).

[SNAAAAKE]

okay here is another one.

the blue wire on official dreamcast pad is the +5.
however my multi meter wasnt picking up the signal...WTF :mad:
I kept trying everything then decided to wire the blue and try it out and worked.
anyone finds more like this please post.
like whatever pad you used and where the +5 is located.

nice thead...:cool:

[ShinJN]

For any dreamcast pad, if you look at the plug, you see 5 plates/pins. The one in the bottom right is the +5v. Take your meter, touch that plate, and then touch points on the PCB.

View when looking directly into the plug. +5v is pin 2.

5 3 1

4 2

For any playstation pad, the +5v is in the middle of all the pins. There are 9 pins, so Pin 5 is the +5v. Touch one end of the multimeter to that pin, then start touching points on the PCB.

I used a MadKatz pad for my DC and a 3rd party pad for my PSX.

ShinJN

[Fresh Air LA]

i use a ps1 madcatz on ps2 and i would like to know where the 5volt is located. would anyone happen to know? (i think the black is ground and the orange or red is 5volt??)

[Dreaded Fist]

fresh air, use the multimeter method that shinjn posted, thast the only sure way. If you don't have one you can make a ghetto one out of wires a battery and a light, if you don't have those... then frys have a pocket tester for $5. If your pad has a light, there should be two prongs right? One of them should trace back to a wire on the controller cord. More than likely that's the 5v.

[bigdingding]

so will a converter work
like say if i use a ps to dc will the 360 work on the dc

[Dreaded Fist]

yes it will work just fine.

[bigdingding]

ok... very odd okay i bought a ps2 Red mad catz controller and the +5v didnt work infact it disabled the whole controller when i put the 360 onto it. i know that its the +5v because i used Shins method on finding it but when i used another ps controller and used shins method the 360 worked perfectly

maybe the mad catz didnt work cause it has the program feature on it prolly not tho

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Check your pm's, got your confirmation# for you.

[FragMasterGen]

i thought psx pads only had 3.5 volt or something like that. will it work with psx and ps2 controllers?

[Dreaded Fist]

yup it should work just find fragmaster.

[SNAAAAKE]

ps2 dualshock2 only has 3.3v so ya cant use that(p360)...

[Dreaded Fist]

I haven't use the ps2 dualshock yet but Trackz has and he says its not possible, the buttons are analog.

[TGC]

I have a question mounting the 360's. As i look at a picture, it doesn't look like they're mounted the same way. Do i have to make any new holes or whatsoever to mount these, or do they mount using the same 4 corner holes to mount the base of any ordinary joystick?

[Dreaded Fist]

they use the same for corner holes as the other sticks, except then don't have the larger ovalish holes next to the round corner holes. You'll know when you see it.

[Toodles]

Noob'ish electronics question.

On all of the pads I've hacked on, (with the exception of the Logitech wireless controller for Xbox. Great pad, but not to hack on) there was a common ground for the buttons and control pad, so closing the switch for the button was simply a matter of shorting it to the common ground the buttons used. I guess I have 2 questions....

1. On most sticks I've played with, this ground is directly connected to the ground pin on the controller plug. This goes for DC, PSX, and Xbox controllers, both first and third party, I've played with. Are there any exceptions that you guys know of? Any systems where the common point of these switches/buttons isn't the same as the system ground?

2. Is any of the power from the +5V on the p360 put through the switches? Hrmm, how to have that make more sense..Lets say I had the p360 hooked up by itself, without any controller involved, just +5V from batteries to the +5v pin and the ground pin to the negative pole of the battery, and put a multimeter between the 'Up' pin and the ground, and tested when the stick was pushed up, would the multimeter show any voltage/amperage? Or is it (how I think it should be) a simple connection between Up and GND with no power, and little to no resistance? If this doesn't make sense, let me know and I'll try to explain differently. My p360 is on backorder until almost Halloween, so I can't find out myself, but wanted to know for getting my interfaces completed, and make sure I didn't fry anything once it gets hooked up.

I am also worried that I may need to keep the GND from the p360 separate from the common ground that the buttons use, out of fear I may fry something by putting more power than needed through some IC. Anything I need to know, or is this fear unfounded?

[SNAAAAKE]

found another.
the red wire on madcatz x-box pad is +5 :D

[Fresh Air LA]

Finally for the last month i have been playing on 360 controllers for ps2 and it is fat. the voltage source is on the pad and all you need is one ground for everything. later on.

[Ceramiclion]

I was thinking of using a battery as the power supply for the Stick, but batteries are only sold from 4.5V to 6.0V.
I noticed that the 360 says its +5V, so i can use the 6V battery right? has anyone ever tried this?
How big is the P360 from the platform down?

thank you

[guado]

this is kind of out of place but i just wanted to know, whats the difference between a competition and a 360 joystick. i'm talking about on massystems.com when your chosing a stick there is an option between the 2. same for the japanese buttons and the non (other then the concave/vex diffirence. thank you

[TGC]

so is 3.5 enough for the 360? Cause that seems like all the psx pads supply.

[Ceramiclion]

Originally posted by guado
this is kind of out of place but i just wanted to know, whats the difference between a competition and a 360 joystick. i'm talking about on massystems.com when your chosing a stick there is an option between the 2. same for the japanese buttons and the non (other then the concave/vex diffirence. thank you

Well from what i know p360s use no microswitches so there's no (click click click) sound when ur making a move (which will tell ur friend when a hadouken is coming lol... yo won't feel the diagonals either (like the diagonals feel deepeer because is in between 2 microswitches) and most importantly of all, it will last longer because there's real contact of any parts so the only thing that can get worn out is the spring(which will take a long while).
Now the buttons its all a matter of taste concave are the traditional ones with that hole in the middle, concave are more like Neogeo type with smooth surface. I really don't see a whole lot of difference besides that but i prefer convex because they seem more responsive (maybe i am crazy...) Maybe convex will get the sirface less scratches since ur hand makes less contact with the whole button or something....
Well i hope this answered ur question

[Ceramiclion]

Originally posted by TGC
so is 3.5 enough for the 360? Cause that seems like all the psx pads supply.

actually i asked a happ controls representative and he said its 5V +5% -5% meaning you should only use a 4.75 to 5.25 source. Even if it works with 3V i wouldn't reccomend it because it could damage it. but if the optic are like light bulb (they light no matter what voltage they are getting, all that matter is that it lights) then it really shouldn't be a problem.
any electronics in the house? I am training electrician. am i the only one here?

[guado]

Originally posted by Ceramiclion


Well from what i know p360s use no microswitches so there's no (click click click) sound when ur making a move (which will tell ur friend when a hadouken is coming lol... yo won't feel the diagonals either (like the diagonals feel deepeer because is in between 2 microswitches) and most importantly of all, it will last longer because there's real contact of any parts so the only thing that can get worn out is the spring(which will take a long while).
Now the buttons its all a matter of taste concave are the traditional ones with that hole in the middle, concave are more like Neogeo type with smooth surface. I really don't see a whole lot of difference besides that but i prefer convex because they seem more responsive (maybe i am crazy...) Maybe convex will get the sirface less scratches since ur hand makes less contact with the whole button or something....
Well i hope this answered ur question ok, thank you

[tekboydamien]

I have an electronics engineering degree and I believe what you guys are talking about is the P360 5V Optical Joysticks like the ones from happcontrols.com.

To answer your question....

those joysticks would just use infrared diodes and the same type collectors which would only operate in that 4.75 and 5.25 window (diodes dont dim, they are either on or off.) .... or

bright red diodes with photo-transistors ( little light sensors )
also wouldnt operate very well outside of the window

If im wrong and these diodes do dim because im a dumbass... then i wouldnt expect the best performance from 3.5 v on these joysticks cuz the light would be dim and the collectors would have a rough time picking it up.

hmmm.... does it work? does anyone use 3.5 volts or whatever?

[CaptainC]

I'm having some problems finding a +5v lead using my multimeter. I'm using a mad catz dual force Ps1 controller, but can't find any 5v+ leads. So I tried my old old old ps1, pre-analog, controller like the one pictured in the link, and yet again no 5v+ lead, even from pin 5.

So my question is, even though the multimeter gives me a reading of 3.5v+, could it still be the right lead? Or do you have to tap into that pin before it hits the pcb? I've get next to zero electrical experience, so I could be entirely wrong here.

[tekboydamien]

where are you grounding your DMM?

[CaptainC]

Just to the ground thats common to all the buttons on the pad. Like I said I have next to zero eletrical experience, so is that not the right spot?

Thanks

[tekboydamien]

so let me see here,

1) the controller has to be plugged in and the console has to be on.

2) the ground lead of the DMM has to be connected to the common ground on the controller, and then you should check the continuity of the ground between the plug and the pads on the controller.

3) if there is any resistance whatsoever on between those points it could be the IC on the controller. which could suck some juice outta the circuit. that may be why you get 3.5v. once the load is removed from the cuircut it may be alright.

Otherwise just hook the p360 up to pin5 and ground and move the stick and see if you get an output on any of the leads. thats the #1 best way to go.

[CaptainC]

Just for an update on my version of the PS2, scph 30001, pin 5 dosen't carry 5v by itself. Pin 6 is the ground, and between the two I only get 3.4v, and thats directly out of the machine, not off the pcb. Out of the machine I never got above 3.4v on any of the pins. So getting 5v might just depend on your Pcb. I know messing around with my madkatz I somehow managed a 7.8v+ between two solder points.

/edit.....Actually I lied. I tested somemore and found that between pin 6 and 7 on the machine there is 8v. So if anyone who has electrical experience can draw up a circut to cut down the 8 to 5 it could be a universal solution

[TAUNT]

Does anyone know how to wire a p360 onto a DC masstick?

[Gammadynamite]

anyone ever make a p360 that blew the controller ports in DC's????

I've heard from somwhere that you have to ground the buttons and the p360 separate from each other. Is there any truth to this???

EDIT: For the guy asking about electricians....I'm an electrician in the navy.

[sundu]

So is it possible to run a 360 off a ps1 or ps2 pad? If so, what brand?

[Dreaded Fist]

it's best to use a sperate ground for the 360, but sharing one with the butons should work also.

Any psx pad or any pad for that matter is compatible with 360.
check the first few posts of this thread.

[magmaster69]

i am having trouble with my 360 stick, it seems that my left won't work can you guys help me and find out whats wrong

[Vinnyman]

Originally posted by SNAAAAKE
found another.
the red wire on madcatz x-box pad is +5 :D so is it safe to say that i can successfully make an x-box joystick with a 360 using madcatz....is there a specific model i must use? and to add to the frenzy.......

i do recall there are some controllers that work with 360's, but not ALL....for example, the MC ps2 analog will not work....what it does is once you hook up the power wire, the outputs go crazy, activating all the buttons on the pad randomly...like MINI-HITLA (dreaded fist) said, something about analog BS that i don't feel like explaining....if it's not digital, it won't work.....

[Cthulhu32]

You know you guys might be losing some voltage to those LED's that come on most 3rd party controllers. Maybe you should try unsoldering those little led's that are on the board and try your multimeter again to see what kind of reading you get. I have yet to do this myself, although maybe spring break I'll hack up a madcatz psx digital pad and see what kind of voltage I can get out of it, and if I can talk electrical with my dad to see what kind of voltage we can get off the pcb if it truly is 3.5v coming from that pin. I'll make sure to take pictures too now that we got a digital camera back home.

[SNAAAAKE]

Originally posted by Vinnyman
so is it safe to say that i can successfully make an x-box joystick with a 360 using madcatz....is there a specific model i must use? and to add to the frenzy.......

i do recall there are some controllers that work with 360's, but not ALL....for example, the MC ps2 analog will not work....what it does is once you hook up the power wire, the outputs go crazy, activating all the buttons on the pad randomly...like MINI-HITLA (dreaded fist) said, something about analog BS that i don't feel like explaining....if it's not digital, it won't work.....

Its probley red for every single xbox pad out there.I hacked like 5 different once already.

first party s-pad
xpad(some 3rd party)
reflex stick
Madcatz
Some other no name brand I found from chinatown
The red wire is 5+.


As for ps2 pads.I dont think you can even draw 5+.I heard its only 3.5. Why hack ps2 pads anyway ?
All buttons are analog so it will be a bitch to work with.
Just get series H dualshock pad,easy to hack and everything.
The red wire is 5+ on both white and gray version as well.

:D

[armad1ll0]

Actually if your wire is coming off of the plug then the voltage depends on your source. If you are talking about a PlayStation pad then if you've plugged into any of the actual Sony consoles then your getting 3.5V from that port and through the wire. (red one in this case)

If you intend to plug your controller into a USB adaptor then you're drawing 5V from the port in this case...

[Vinnyman]

Originally posted by SNAAAAKE


Its probley red for every single xbox pad out there.I hacked like 5 different once already.

first party s-pad
xpad(some 3rd party)
reflex stick
Madcatz
Some other no name brand I found from chinatown
The red wire is 5+.


As for ps2 pads.I dont think you can even draw 5+.I heard its only 3.5. Why hack ps2 pads anyway ?
All buttons are analog so it will be a bitch to work with.
Just get series H dualshock pad,easy to hack and everything.
The red wire is 5+ on both white and gray version as well.

:D
thanks for the info....

[**Skimitar**]

Originally posted by Gammadynamite
anyone ever make a p360 that blew the controller ports in DC's????

I've heard from somwhere that you have to ground the buttons and the p360 separate from each other. Is there any truth to this???

EDIT: For the guy asking about electricians....I'm an electrician in the navy.

Yes you can burn you ports to your dreamcast, that shit sucks it happend to me one time. Do not mix the wires or let them touch each other when you turn on the dc, and another way to burn them out is with the volt meter dont touch more than one point at a time when trying to find 5v.

No you dont have to run two grounds from two locations. I have my p360 ground wire running to everything the buttons to the p360 to the start and it will work fine.
I have two p360 the same way and they both work bad ass.

[**Skimitar**]

Does anybody know what store sell the female connectors for the Cherry switches. All the ones i found where too big
Home Depot - No
Radio Shack - No
Lowes - No <---------I think that is how you spell it.
Fry's Electronics - No
South gate Moss - They Closed Down (In Houston I-45 North)

[chicken]

Originally posted by TAUNT
Does anyone know how to wire a p360 onto a DC masstick? I would also like to know how to do this. I know it's possible because you can request that MAS puts one in for you. I bought one with a regular joystick and I just want to install my own.

[Treybonew]

Originally posted by **Skimitar**
Does anybody know what store sell the female connectors for the Cherry switches. All the ones i found where too big
Home Depot - No
Radio Shack - No
Lowes - No <---------I think that is how you spell it.
Fry's Electronics - No
South gate Moss - They Closed Down (In Houston I-45 North)

Radio Shack does have them. The size is .187 you have to look to find them but they do have them. Don't get the .250. Happ has them on their website.

[Treybonew]

Originally posted by armad1ll0
Actually if your wire is coming off of the plug then the voltage depends on your source. If you are talking about a PlayStation pad then if you've plugged into any of the actual Sony consoles then your getting 3.5V from that port and through the wire. (red one in this case)

If you intend to plug your controller into a USB adaptor then you're drawing 5V from the port in this case...

Is that possible then? Can you get a psx to usb adapter, plug it into your ps2 and use the stick that way? Basically I want to wire the p360 to the mas board, plug the stick into the adapter and then plug the adapter into the PS2. That should give me the +5v I need to run the p360, but are the usb ports on the ps2 actually controller ports, or are they for other devices?

[armad1ll0]

I'm not experienced with MAS boards but theoretically it should work.

[**Skimitar**]

The Mass Sticks has the 5v you need just look for it.
come'on now you could order them with a 360 where do they get the 5v from, the board use a volt meter, it will find the volts you need.

[Treybonew]

Originally posted by **Skimitar**
The Mass Sticks has the 5v you need just look for it.
come'on now you could order them with a 360 where do they get the 5v from, the board use a volt meter, it will find the volts you need.

I have a meter and I have looked all over the board inside the mas stick. The problem is that the port on the PS2 only supplies 3.5 volts (that's coming straight out the port before it even gets to the joystick) The usb port has +5v. I tried to hook up the p360 before just to the regular port, and it wouldn't respond right. It cut on, but it didn't want to zero out. It would register all directions at once. That is why I want to use the usb port. If the port is a controller port, it will work just fine. If the port is just for other accessories, then it won't.

[Dreaded Fist]

I've seen a mas board with a 360 installed and there is a spot to solder the 5v to the board clearly labelled. I don't know if it's labelled '5v' or not though. But if you look, you'll find it. I think it's "volt" "power" or something. You can always trace the middle pin on the plug to see where it leads to on the pad. I don't know why you guys are having trouble finding the 5v, if you use the middle pin method.

[andigits]

Some info about the psx controller port...

For you guys that want to (looking at the plug)
pin 1 : data
pin 2 : command
pin 3 : N/C (+9 Volts)
pin 4 : gnd
pin 5 : vcc
pin 6 : att
pin 7 : clock
pin 8 : n/c
pin 9 : ack

Well the one that you care about is vcc i guess. VCC is kind a weird since it can vary from +3v to +5v. So if you were getting 3.5v... that was probably VCC.

I guess you can use a +3.3v to +5v converter...
http://pdfserv.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/MAX756-MAX757.pdf
Maybe something like this?

well +9v to +5v is much easer :)
http://www.iguanalabs.com/7805kit.htm
For those that aren't great with electronics. I found you a page.

I'm waiting for my 360 controller to come in mail. Soon as i get it, I'll try to rig it up to my x-arcade. Maybe I'll have a better info when I'm done.

[chicken]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
I've seen a mas board with a 360 installed and there is a spot to solder the 5v to the board clearly labelled. I don't know if it's labelled '5v' or not though. But if you look, you'll find it. I think it's "volt" "power" or something. You can always trace the middle pin on the plug to see where it leads to on the pad. I don't know why you guys are having trouble finding the 5v, if you use the middle pin method. I believe it's labeled "VCC." Very easy to find.

[ClosetRemy]

Are you guys sure about this "any controller is compatible" thing? When I made my joystick, I had a happ 360 and it straight up wouldn't work with a madkatz ps2 pad. It may be true for any psx pad, however... I had to get this specific controller, ps1 dual shock white (only psx controller at walmart), which worked alright.

When I tested it with the madkatz with guilty gear, the joystick would act totally erratic and sometimes it would act like every button was being pressed at once.

I think it's because the way the 360 works, it holds all connections at +5 and drops the one to zero, but on the madkatz it dropped every other button to zero. I confirmed this with the meter.

[platinum_pinoy]

Wait, I have a question about connections......


How is the P360 connected to the directions? I mean, all I have been reading was "power wire" and "ground wire". What about connections to the directions (up, down, etc.)? Since the P360 doesn't use microswitches, then it has to be connected to the points somehow, right?

Can anyone post a picture on this?

[Shin Ace]

It has 6 connections:
ground, power, up, down, left, right. The 4 directions are by themselves, seperate from the power connections.

[platinum_pinoy]

How are the new batches of P360's? I heard the previous batch sucked ass.

[jodonnell]

A PS1 SCPH-110 will work fine for a P360, right?

[UnderSeven]

Okay, I am using a reader on a pelican universal arcade board tring to find the power input. I have found LOTS of -5v wires, but I can't find a positive! I have the black side on the com for one of the bottons and the red all over the place. Then for grins I switched it the other way around and give positive readings. What does this mean? Does anyone know where I can find the 5v input on this board (saving me the trouble of fussing with it) if not, can someone give me some ideas? I've found multiple leads with a charge but they were all negative. I couldn't tell which wire going out is the ground wire, how would I find this? Would I HAVE to wire the p360 to that wire?

[Shin Ace]

That means the COM tab on the button is not the ground, it's the signal wire. All those -5v points are ground points.

Put the black probe on the NO tab of the button and try again.

[ClosetRemy]

Alright, guys, I'm running into some weird stuff:

I recently built a joystick from one of my friends using one of the "new" p360s, with the smaller plastic cylindar and clean optical sensor holes. Now he's claiming that the diagonals are messed up, and this would imply that either something weird happened like the eclip fell off along with the plastic, or that the joystick somehow degraded because I test it for several hours after having built the damn thing.

Has anyone encountered a similar problem with the new 360s? I used a ps1 basic controller as the host PCB, voltage was under 5, 4.something.

[Shin Ace]

That belongs here:

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=46391&highlight=newer+issues

[UnderSeven]

Finally got the p360 working. It blows the microswitch stick I had in there previously away. Yep, this is definatly a stick that will work at least with an xbox set up.

[Shin Ace]

Glad to hear it.

[topknot]

is it possible to put 360s in the redoctane box/ with the pcb?
and if so how can it be done?

[SiLLiEMutAfuKA]

Originally posted by topknot
is it possible to put 360s in the redoctane box/ with the pcb?
and if so how can it be done?

I need to know this as well, I'm totally a noob at this shit, never did these things before. If I keep the original microswitch, would that work with the P360?

[Arz2003!]

Does any one know how to wire a p360 onto a mas stick(dreamcast)??????

[Dreaded Fist]

I assume you jus tneed the power wire, and that goes to vcc on the mas board.

If you guys recently bought a 360, you will notice that some of them will mount sideway instead of verticle, the tabs are rotated 45°. So to install these, you can either take it apart and reassemble it properly or you can just mount it so the tabs are facing up. When you do that the labelings will be as follow, from left to right

U D R L


I actually like the way they are this way, since it's closer to the pcb.

[Gouki-Worshiper]

On my MAS I can only get +3.5 volts out of any of the wires coming in the from the DC. I am going to play with it some more tonight and try some DC sticks. I may have to take out the MAS pcb and use a DC controller PCB. Can anyone link me to the proper wiring for this in case I have to use it? Thanks!

[ShAix510]

I spent the whole day trying to install my p360, Fuuuuccck....... I'm using a psx pad and there were some +3.5 spots to solder onto. After I solder my +5v wire on one of those, it doesn't work. I then test the voltage on that solder point and my multimeter read 1.8 volts. WTF!!! why the voltage went down after I solder my p360 +5v wire??? I then desolder the +5v wire and tested with my multimeter and it read +3.4. I tried it with all the other +3v points and all of them read +1.8 after solder. What the fuck is going on? I'm getting frustrated. Is my p360 fried??? or do I need a new pad???

[Shin Ace]

Every button has 2 wires. One carries 0v, the other is a signal wire. The signal wire has about 3.5 volt when not pressed, but cannot give you any current. When you try to draw power, the voltage drops.

You need to find THE 5 volt lead. The power lead. On psx, this is the middle pin of the plug.

[ShAix510]

I tried all the pins. The middle one too. I think its red. And voltage still dropped.

[ShAix510]

Okay, I finally got my P360s to work after screwing up 2 PCBs. I noticed the converters for the psx/ps2 to xbox doesn't work with the P360s. When I tested it out on my xbox, it was really slow, like really laggy. I can't do any fireballs, uppercuts, and other specials because it was too slow. If I do it slow, I can get the fireballs to come out. I then tried out the psx/ps2 to Dreamcast converter and it works perfectly. same speed and everything. Anyone have this P360s converter to xbox slow inputs problem?

[Dreaded Fist]

was it a digital controller? As in non-analog. Because some xbox converters don't work, or have a lag with digital controllers. I suggest you get a dualshock controller.

[ShAix510]

Originally posted by Dreaded Fist
was it a digital controller? As in non-analog. Because some xbox converters don't work, or have a lag with digital controllers. I suggest you get a dualshock controller.

it was a 3rd party psx controller.

damn.. now i gotta take everything out and solder the dualshock.

[THChardcore]

If I have a P360 DC Mas, is there anyway, short of soldering a new PCB, of getting the thing to work on the X-box?

[Poacher]

From what i have read everyone is having the hardest time with the p360's. I just built a box with 2 of the p360's and it works great. I made the box with Dreamcast controllers so maybe they are a little different from psx controllers. But anyways on the dreamcast controller all i did was soldered the red wire from the p360 onto the blue wire terminal on the circuit board. I never got out the volt meter so i couldnt tell you how much voltage it has, but it works. and i ran the black wire from the p360 to the black wire on the dreamcast controller. Then i just scraped off the carbon coating from the up, down, left and right spots on the cuircuit board. Soldered them and ran the wires to the p360 and bam, a fully functional p360.

[Kenshin10401]

Dose anyone know how to hook up the p360 to a pelican real arcade (psx, game cube, Xbox) stick? I just need to know ware to pull the 5v from.

[Cthulhu32]

I am currently having a major problem with my perfect 360. I wired it to a MadCatz Dual Shock 1 psx controller, and after getting the right power pin hooked up and all the grounds in place, the perfect360 drags down the voltage to like 2.3v and shorts the entire board. Basically the minute the two grounds touch, BAM every button is pressed *I verified that w/ my usb adapter.* I don't know if this has to do w/ the newest p360 batch *says HAPP Q.A. on it* or what, but if anyone has any input I'm all ears.

[Dreaded Fist]

Cthulhu i'm having some problems with the new batch also. But it didn't short out the controller. The problem is that a direction simply do not work. I've ran into 3 bad ones so far with that problem. I took it apart to test the 360 pcb alone w/o the plastic enclosure and the missing direction got 5ish v instead of 0v like it should. Because there is nothing blocking the paths of the sensors everything should be 0v. Happ is claiming that they test it out before shipping and everything was ok, and that the problem is on my side.

[Shin Ace]

The P360 should in theory present 5 volt on all directions until one of them is triggered. By blocking the sensors, you then obtain 0 volts. All digital controllers work in this fashion.

[Dreaded Fist]

Shin Ace I remember you saying something about ps2 only giving out 3.5 correct? IS there a way you can amplify that into 5v? The old 360s might be able to operate in that condition, but the guy from happ told me you need 4.75 to 6.25v no more, no less. The newer 360s might have been made different so voltage requirement is stricter. That still doesn't explain why one direction will not work though, but its a shot.

[ashurax]

when everyone says problems with new happ p360 joysticks just how new do u guys mean? i have a somewhat old p360 stick (bought around january 2003 from happs) that has been hooked up to mad catz DC pad. i am currently planning to build different interface boxes with DB25 connectors, and i was gonna use a 3rd party psx pad (for converters and such) because i heard before that p360 joysticks work fine with 3rd party psx pads. any more info so i can find out if its even worth it to build a psx interface box?

[Shin Ace]

You can boost 3.5v to 5v by puttin a AA battery in line with the power lead. Power lead of controller to - on battery, then the + battery terminal becomes the 5v lead. It should last for well over 10 hours of play time.

If 3 directions work, chances are the problem is not power, but it still could be.

[Dreaded Fist]

I see so power can be add up like that. thanks.

Ashurax if your 360 works with your dc pad , it might work with the ps2 as well. But I have had a 360 work on dc via converter and not have the up direction on the ps2.

[Shin Ace]

... But I have had a 360 work on dc via converter and not have the up direction on the ps2.

Just what I needed. Best troubleshooting info EVER. Yes, boost that sucker up to 5v and enjoy.

[Dreaded Fist]

You are a god. Turn out it was the insufficient voltage. I put in the battery and every worked perfectly.

I have a few things to ask you though, if you don't mind.

Do the sensors in the 360 ever dim? or are they on/off only.
Is there a permanent way to boost the power to 5v w/o using a battery? 10 hours doesn't sound like much at all :(
How much power does the dreamcast give out? I don't have any dc pads to test.

thanks.

[Shin Ace]

There are ways to boost any DC voltage to another DC voltage, by using a DC-DC converter. You would need a 3.3 to 5v DC-DC converter. They're not cheap either, might run you a good 10$ or so. A duracell or energizer AA will last roughly 40 hours. I didn't want to get your hopes up too high though. You can also use a C, or D cell instead for even longer life. A duracell D cell would last about 150 hours. But there is one catch, I'm not sure if power is still drawn from the battery when the controller is unplugged. There's only about a 10% chance that it would, so you should be safe letting it sit there for weeks.

There are 2 LED's per direction in the P360, one emitter, one sensor. The emiteer is always on and only dims by changing the voltage applied to it. The receiver can see any amount of infrared light, from 0 to max, and there is a set point. The set point is the same thing as sensitivity. Not much you can do without altering the circuit though.

[NintendoKing]

So basically any PSX controller would work for a p360?

I'm started to put together one for my PS2 and this is the only real question I have. I have my other controllers, PS1 Dualshock
that works with my PS2. Could I use this pad? It's an analog so I don't know.

I'm kinda new to wiring a p360.

[Shin Ace]

Psx has problems due to the voltage the CONSOLE provides. Using a different pad makes no difference. There is a risk that your P360 will not like 3.3 volts.

[masterofking]

You are a god. Turn out it was the insufficient voltage. I put in the battery and every worked perfectly.

I have a few things to ask you though, if you don't mind.

Do the sensors in the 360 ever dim? or are they on/off only.
Is there a permanent way to boost the power to 5v w/o using a battery? 10 hours doesn't sound like much at all :(
How much power does the dreamcast give out? I don't have any dc pads to test.

thanks.


hey Dreaded fist can you post a pic of your p360 connected to the battery I have to do that if I want a p360 in my pelican thanks in advance

[Shin Ace]

Check it.

Get yourself a 4 AA battery pack from radioshack and some NiMH AA's to go with it. Don't for get to buy a switch too, of the SPST kind.

Connect the -(black wire on battery pack) to the GND on the P360 and also the GND for the pelican(make damn sure the pelican has a single ground, cuz I ain't teaching you the workaround). Then connect the +(red wire, still on the pack) to the power lead of the P360. Hazzah, external power supply. All you need is to put a switch in the + line to cut power to the P360 when you're not using it.

[masterofking]

Check it.

Get yourself a 4 AA battery pack from radioshack and some NiMH AA's to go with it. Don't for get to buy a switch too, of the SPST kind.

Connect the -(black wire on battery pack) to the GND on the P360 and also the GND for the pelican(make damn sure the pelican has a single ground, cuz I ain't teaching you the workaround). Then connect the +(red wire, still on the pack) to the power lead of the P360. Hazzah, external power supply. All you need is to put a switch in the + line to cut power to the P360 when you're not using it.

Thanks but I need a pic and the work around

[Shin Ace]

If you have friends that work on electrical stuff in their cars, ask them to help you. Or better yet, go ask your daddy.

I'm stunned by the number of people who do things without any idea of what they are doing.

[masterofking]

[QUOTE=Shin Ace]If you have friends that work on electrical stuff in their cars, ask them to help you. Or better yet, go ask your daddy.

I'm stunned by the number of people who do things without any idea of what they are doing.[/QUOTE


my bad for trying to get help in a help thread and man lets drop this right now I asked for help and you tell me to ask my daddy not cool

[Shin Ace]

If I enterred a thread asking how to make liquid rocket fuel, would you help me? I sure hope not, chances are I'd blow myself up to bits.

If you're gonna play with the power leads on a pad, you risk blowing the controller port on your console. Again, if you don't know WHY you are doing something, DON'T DO IT!

At first you asked for help. Now you're asking to be spoon fed.

[Dreaded Fist]

Hey,
When you add a battery pack like that, would it make sense to disconnect it when you're using a converter? If you're going to use it on dreamcast for example, since the dc is already giving out 5v.

[Shin Ace]

You could get fancy and put a diode(1N4004 or 1N4148) across the + lead of the battery and another on the + 5v from the DC console. Tie the - ends of both diodes(which becomes the new +5v) and you have a safe dual power supply. Just remember to disconnect the battery when you don't need it, via the switch.

[Dreaded Fist]

right on.
I just tested 3 more with the strict voltage requirement. Seems like almost half of them are like this. :(

Btw: During my search, I came across this:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/quick_view2.cfm/qv_pk/2307

would that do the trick. The price is very generous but I believe that is if you buy 1000 of them.

EDIT**

I just add an attachment on a diagram of a setup i'm going to test to allow you to remove the battery from the power flow with the use of a single pull double throw switch. I'm not sure if when its in the "no battery" position, that the battery is giving power to the 360 or not, but i will test it out tomorrow. Since the - on the battery isn't going to anything, it shouldn't give out any power, right?

[Dreaded Fist]

RESULTS!

It looks like the p360 will work with 6.5v(unlike what happ said) so you don't have to use a spdt switch. A simple on/off switch will do. An spdt will still let you save power while playing on another system. Matter of fact, you don't even need a switch at all, but your battery will continue to drain while you're not using the stick. How much power it drain though, I do not know.

[ReakHavok]

i need a site to buy a p360

[Dreaded Fist]

happcontrols.com

[ReakHavok]

do you put glue on the buttons to make'em stick to the joystick?
what kind of paper should i use the artwork?

[Cthulhu32]

RESULTS!

It looks like the p360 will work with 6.5v(unlike what happ said) so you don't have to use a spdt switch. A simple on/off switch will do. An spdt will still let you save power while playing on another system. Matter of fact, you don't even need a switch at all, but your battery will continue to drain while you're not using the stick. How much power it drain though, I do not know.

Shin ace can correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you can use a pFET instead of a switch to do this automatically. *go EE 214!* well basically it works as an on/off switch, but its controlled by another current, if the currnet is low voltage, the switch is open, if the current is high voltage, the switch is closed, that way you could hook the battery to the pFET and use the psx power to regulate when its on and off. Just a thought.

[Shin Ace]

No need to get too crazy.

If you're working with multiple 5 volt sources, just put a diode in series with each power wire and then you end up with a single 4.5 volt wire. It's only when your source is 3.3 volt(causing problems to start with) that putting a diode is completely impractical. In that case, it's likely best to use a transistor as a switch and have the 3.3v source+resistor control the base current of the transistor.

Let's go through a hypothetical scenario.
1) Assume that a P360 will never draw more than 50 mA
2) Assume we only have 1 mA that we can use from any psx pad
3) Assume the transistor is a 2n3904 (NPN). If you're familiar with xstr types and only have some 2n3906's kicking around, feel free to do it backwards. Otherwise, buy some 2n3904's, they're cheap.

Alright, so we want a simple, cheap, and effective circuit using a 2n3904 transistor, a single resistor(of unknown value right now), and the 2 supply voltages. These supply voltages are: a) the battery(preferably a rechargeable 6 volt battery), and b) the psx power and ground wires.

Here's what I've come up with. It's the attachment itself and you'll notice the only information missing is the value of that resistor. WOOHOO!!! Now I've got you by the nuts, suckaaa!!

just kidding. So we said we want the psx pad to only have to give up 1 mA for out P360 to function.
V = 3.3 volt, I = 0.001 A, which means R = V/I....or... 3300 ohms. So anything between about 2.2k and 4.7k should work just great. This resistor is 1/4 watt, any damn tolerance, but between 2.2k and 4.7k ohms.

Hazzah, super switch! The transistor amplifies our the base curretn and voltage. So although the psx pad is giving us 3.3 volts and 1 mA, the P360 uses the battery voltage and whatever current it needs, up to 1mA * BETA. Beta for a 2n3904 is about 100, so the P360 can use as much as 100 mA.

If you followed all of that, you're probably going :clap: right now.
Otherwise, it's a big :xeye: .

edit: the whole point of doing this is to make the P360 only draw power when the joystick is plugged in, AND the console is on. Very simple, very cheap, very effective.

[Doomsday]

I have the Pelican Real Arcade Universal working with a Happ P360 stick and it didn't require adding batteries. I have tested it on an Xbox and the PS2 so I am pretty sure its going to work on my Gamecube(There actually should be no reason it won't work). Negative(Black) on a multimeter should always be connected to a ground in order to test for voltages. All the buttons on a P.R.A.U are grounded together so thats where you would usually start.

Earlier in the thread someone mentioned taking the P360 apart to fix the writings direction but that doesn't really matter as long as you know which wire is u/d/l/r. the instructions say that it should be facing towards the players right. Does anybody know where I can order a Perfect 360 Button. I saw a diagram for one online but I think Happs might have canned them, optical buttons would be the shit....Monopolys suck.

Asmodeus

[sundu]

No need to get too crazy.

...

edit: the whole point of doing this is to make the P360 only draw power when the joystick is plugged in, AND the console is on. Very simple, very cheap, very effective.

You are a genius.

[frog213]

Yo, SHIN ACE (or anyone else that is a seasoned electrician)
situation:
My friend recently bought a MAS stick w/ a P360 for PS2 only. There is only 3.5v being supplied to the p360 so it doesn't work properly(whole left side doesn't function ie. l, dl, ul) So I was wondering if using an AC adapter would be alright to power the P360? I read this whole thread and didn't really care for the battery ideas and such. I just want to run the 5v to the P360 SOLELY from an AC adapter.

here's the problem I encountered while practicing (not meant for the P360) with a 9v 300mA AC adapter I sacrificed just to get a feel for what I will eventualy do. I cut the wire open and exposed the 2 wires guessing one was ground and one was 9v ??? but when I tested the DC volts it read around 16.5v-17v ?????????? when I reversed the testing probes I got a negative reading, but the same is true if u test the 5v+ going to an arcade game's P360(GGXX) powered properly from it's power supply. So that lead me to believe my original idea was true: one of the wires on the AC adapter is a ground and the other is the voltage?

summary of questions:

1. Why did it read so high for a 9v?
2. Does the 300mA have something to do w/ the boost? Would a 9v 500mA read any different?
3. Of the 2 wires going to the plug on the adapter, is one the ground and the other the voltage? making it suitable for powering and grounding the P360 ONLY(no buttons, etc)?
4. Has anyone else tryed using an AC adapter? success or failure?
5. Should I use a lower "written voltage" (ie. the adapter says 4.5v 400mA-500mA)? In other words what written voltage will get me as close to 5v without going too high/low?

Thanks,
Josh C -- and to think with my limited electrical knowledge, I'm the lone technician for an arcade. :xeye:

[Shin Ace]

You will need to add a voltage regulator.
Inside that wall adapter there is a transformer and a capacitor. This one obviously has no regulator, so when no power is being drawn, it does in fact give you 15 volts. Only when you draw the full 300 mA will it drop to 9.x
When you get a -15 volt reading, it just means you've guessed backwards. PLace the probes so that you get 15, and then the red probe is touching the power wire(+) while the black probe tells you which is ground(-).

What you want is a 5 volt positive voltage regulator. The part number is 7805 or 78l05. It has 3 pins: input, output and ground. Connect ground to ground, and the 15 volt wire to input. Now you will always get 5 volts at the output.

Here's a crude pic.

EDIT: You WILL need to connect the ground of the P360 to the ground of the psx pad(on top of the regulator and adapters grounds). Otherwise, it simply will not send signals properly, if at all. Connect all ground wires together, but DO NOT connect the power wires together(EVER).

[frog213]

where would I buy this voltage regulator: 7805? Radioshack?
Are you saying I would need this if I was going to use the 9v adapter? or any adapter? Cause I had no intention of using the 9v adapter, I just bought 3 adapters on ebay(it was a lot of 3)they are as follows: 5.1v 500mA, 5.5v 500mA, and a 4v 70mA. I was planning on using these but now I'm afraid I might need that regulator to bring the 5.1v and 5.5v down, and the 4v might not be enough? Does the regulator ONLY regulate by bringing high power down to 5v, or does it work the other way too bringing 4v up to 5v?

"DO NOT connect the power wires together(EVER)." - Shin Ace

You mean the external(AC) power and the ps 3.5v power? Already ahead of ya on that one. :wink: The last thing I wanna do is cause permanent damage to the ports and/or P360.

Thank you SOOOOO MUCH !!!!!11!!!1 :pray:

[Shin Ace]

Regulators only drop voltage. For a 5 volt regulator to work, there must be between 6.5 and 35 volts on the input.

Check to see if any of those adapters say 'regulated', otherwise, you will need to check all of them with a meter and then add your own regulator. I don't think a P360 would enjoy 10 volts.

[MaDPoWer]

Yo. I'm thinking of replacing my faulty P360 with a good one in a MAS. The old one was installed using quick disconnects by a friend. Would it be easy for me to swap out the 360s?

[masterofking]

Yo. I'm thinking of replacing my faulty P360 with a good one in a MAS. The old one was installed using quick disconnects by a friend. Would it be easy for me to swap out the 360s?


yes LOL what up man

[Shin Ace]

Word on the street is that p360+new PS2 works great. Can anyone verify what voltage the new sp2 is giving the controllers?

[MaDPoWer]

I emailed happs asking if i bought a p360 now, would it be a good one or a faulty one. Their reply:


" Yes, the problem with the Perfect 360 joysticks happend before Happ Controls purchased acquired the Perfect 360 joystick. That problem was back in March and all of the joysticks are fine now. "

[Shin Ace]

Yeah, but they never said the LED's would be mounted straight. They're referring to the resistor issue.

I'm talking about P360's that work great when using adapters, but a direction doesn't work when used on psx. In which case the P360 is working perfectly.

[Nash421]

Anyone have a picture of where the 5v is on the PSOne series H dualshock?

[frog213]

EDIT: You WILL need to connect the ground of the P360 to the ground of the psx pad(on top of the regulator and adapters grounds). Otherwise, it simply will not send signals properly, if at all.

Connect all ground wires together.

I'm pretty sure that the P360's inputs are being delayed somehow? The buttons on the otherhand seem fine. The power is exactly 5v and stays even when being used. I noticed this while playing 3S on PS2. I have my own 3S cab that I play on constantly that has P360s. So when I couldn't get fireballs over half of the time on the P360s in the MAS on PS2, I was afraid something was wrong with the grounding setup. I never tried NOT connecting all of the grounds, I figured I would just follow your advice to the "T" I figured it wouldn't work anyway? Is it possible there is a delay because of the psx ground connected to the AC adapter ground? Am I crazy? Is the P360 just new? If I used the PS2 power plus a battery would I get a different result?

Thanks . . . . . . . you da man :pray: --> SHIN ACE

[tuelpo]

I have the new ps2, I'll try and find my multimter and let you know.

-tuelpo

[Shin Ace]

^^^pimpness

Low voltage will not cause any delays for the outputs of the P360. Improper grounding either results in a functional or non functional stick, same as low voltage. It must be the MAS pcb, or how the game interprets inputs.
Try swapping the P360 temporarily with a switch based stick. Just to rule out the P360 as the cause. My experience with P360's has always been easy fireball and fireball supers.

Tell me when it does and doesn't produce fireballs. Does it only give problems on ps2, yet works when using converters? Has it ever been easy to do fbx2? You know my steez.

EDIT: ignore that converter part. I just realized you did infact use a wall adapter and voltage regulator. That means it won't matter whether you use it on ps2 or other consoles with converters, the voltage is the same.

[frog213]

I think I'm just insane and the P360 is new. I'm so used to the nice broken in sticks and playing the arcade version....... "god I hate consoles" :tdown: #s just doesn't feel right on DC/PS2 after only playing it for so long in the arcade.

when u say try a switch stick, do u mean in the mas or just a switch stick period? Cause I have 3 switch sticks I built back when I was anti-P360 and Pro heavy spring Ultimates. I tried them and it seems about the same.

as Axl Rose says "I'm fuckin' crazy" :rock:

[tuelpo]

Damn, still can't find my damn multimeter, stupid roomates....
I'll keep trying.

I got a pelican universal used for 20 bucks so I grabbed it for the frame and PCB. I can gank some lexan from an old shop I work at so I think I'm going to do the top entirely in half inch thick lexan. I'm gonna follow the button placement of the leftmost buttons to the right to lessen the curve. and Decorate the sides and interior bottom.


In the pic shown earlier for one of these, why was the connection to the pcb blurred?

[Vinnyman]

i have a question...are the 360's still having problems hitting angles...i bought one last year during the time others were complaining about the same thing as i did...so are the ones now working fine...i wouldn't want to spend another 50 bucks on a fucked up joystick... :annoy:

[Dreaded Fist]

mayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyybe. But it would be due to voltage problem(and not resisters problem like the old batch). Seems like if you give it enough power, the diagonals will be fine.

[Shin Ace]

1) I thought this thread died.

2) Giving a P360 the proper voltage does not gaurantee proper function. Hopefully they've begun to mount the led's a bit better.

3) Where's the beef?

[THChardcore]

God, that so sucks about the neweer 360s. I have an older one and I'm so glad I got it fixed when I did.

[mk master (503)]

How would you takeout a competition stick out of a masstick and put in a p 360?

[lilblackino]

Can a p360 be installed in a SFA Stick with the board that is already in it?

[Toodles]

These questions applies to both the P360 and the sanwa flash stick;
1. Does anyone know the amperage these things draw?
2. If I find the amperage, either by someone here saying or me testng with the multimeter when the flash gets here, should I use that and place a resistor on the +5 line?

The reason for these questions are two fold. First, I just ordered a sample Maxim 752 chip to step up the 3.? voltage on a psx pad up to the 5v the flash/p360 require, and want to make sure the 200mA the chip can handle with be sufficient. Secondly, I've experienced a lot of issues with my current DC stick (p360, and a madcatz pcb)in particular having compatability problems with mas sticks, and even a agetec stick once, and I'm wondering if the power draw is affecting it. The stick will never work properly, even alone, if the stick is plugged in when the DC turns on. Im hoping a resister to make sure that too much power isn't drawn would help alleviate this. Yes, Im still an electronics n00b.

[Shin Ace]

If it draws too much power, start looking for a 5 volt battery.

Currently, the stick I'm working on will use a 12 volt/5 AH lead acid battery. From there, I'm using a 5 volt regulator. And I've even made a 3.3 volt tap in case I want to power some psx pads.

A naked pad draws on average 10 mA. That applies to just about all systems. I can't see a P360 using more than 50 mA. If you're worried about your chip not being able to supply the current, use a heatsink of a transistor as a current amplifier. You should be fine without any extras.

[lilblackino]

ok i Really want to put this Perfect 360 in the Street Fighter Anniversary Stick but i don't know how! Really i don't know were to put the 5v cable at! Someone please help!!!!

[ashurax]

so any news about the slim ps2 and if it provides 5 volts for a p360? im thinking of getting a slim ps2 and have a p360 stick so i wanted to know if the rumor that they give out 5 volts is true.

[WaQs]

so any news about the slim ps2 and if it provides 5 volts for a p360? im thinking of getting a slim ps2 and have a p360 stick so i wanted to know if the rumor that they give out 5 volts is true.

The pstwo provides 3.5volts, thats enough to make the sanwa flash workflawlessly, at least for me anyway

[ocelot_357]

[QUOTE=Dreaded Fist]*snip*QUOTE]
Hey man, when you get a chance, hit me up on AIM. I want you to make me a stick. ^_^

[Shin Ace]

I've experienced a lot of issues with my current DC stick (p360, and a madcatz pcb)in particular having compatability problems with mas sticks, and even a agetec stick once, and I'm wondering if the power draw is affecting it. The stick will never work properly, even alone, if the stick is plugged in when the DC turns on. Im hoping a resister to make sure that too much power isn't drawn would help alleviate this. Yes, Im still an electronics n00b.

There was a thread about that exact mad katz DC problem. I've got one of those pads, installed in a stick I currently use. I just unplug and replug the controller whenever I first turn on the DC. Just a random glitch, nothing to worry about.

[P L A C E R]

?


so PS2 dualshock2's WONT power up the 5v needed for the p360? because mine is the A-series someone recommended,and i figured i'll sacrafice this bitch


as a matter of fact,which remote should i go get right now that'll have the PCB to power the p360 on a ps2

[P L A C E R]

.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.

not to mention the best/cheapest site to get p360's

[tornadoclaw]

According to the specs for USB, the voltage by a host or powered USB ports is between 4.75v and 5.25v. The draw maximum is 100 mA. These specs appear to match the power requirements for a 360. A USB cable has 4 internal cables, the red one supplies +5 VDC, and the Black is Ground. If you remove the connector from a USB cable (Not the flat one), strip the wires, connect the red and black cables to the 360, and connect the flat connector to one of the PS2's USB ports, the 360 should work. I haven't tested this wiring, so someone with a spare USB cable let me know the results. However, all comments are welcome.

[Ryu Ken]

Need Your Help on Wico P360's...

1) On the Anniversary Edition Arcade Stick do they make their own PCB with common ground and a +5 volt TAP ? Can you swap parts in the X-Arcade, like their joystick to a Wico P360's which requires common ground and a +5 volt TAP on the Printed Circuit Board and I can't find it on the X-Arcade PCB?

[Shin Ace]

The pinouts for all console controllers have been public knowledge for some time now. If you really need to know which pin is GND and which is PWR, you'll find the pinout on the net.

Again, P360's are not designed to work on psx.

Multiple console sticks are easy. You just put them in parallel. So the psx encoder shares the buttons with the dreamcast encoder and so on. If the dreamcast chip was to burn out, all other systems should still work.

tornadoclaw, that is correct.

[Eth3r3a1]

i just bought a p360 and i installed it, but im having problems with it going left.

it goes left, but during matches n stuff, i find myself not blocking or not walking forward...

anyone know what the problem might be, and how to fix it?

[Lei Sui Long]

*serious need of some assistance*

I know its corny but I am trying to hook a P360 into a Pelican universal so I can use it on live. I have heard 2 sides of this story No it cant be done without changing the PCB and Yes it can be done with the existing PCB. But everywhere I look I cannot find a diagram or an explaination of which point to use for the 5v?!?

So has anyone here know how or has done this mod? IF so how was it done where is the 5v point and how does it work? There is a light in the universal stick that indicates "mode" does anyone know if this is 5V and if it is can I use it? I greatly appreciate any and all help thanks!

[Shin Ace]

The ground wires and 5 volt both run along the cord, you can splice into there if you really need to. Which wire is 5 volt is up to you.

[judomacdaddy]

i just bought a p360 and i installed it, but im having problems with it going left.

it goes left, but during matches n stuff, i find myself not blocking or not walking forward...

anyone know what the problem might be, and how to fix it?

I just finished my stick and i'm having this same problem. I also can't do diagonals unless i push up really hard, then slowly move it to whatever horizontal direction. I can't tell if this problem is coming from the incredibly stiff spring or if there's not enough power, since some directions work great i.e. really senssitive while right works barely at all.

Edit: nm i fixed the problem by taking a 6 volt cell phone charger and splicing it onto the solder points. I highly recommend for anyone having problems to give this a try as it seems to give it the perfect amount of power.

[Dnut]

So has anybody successfully installed a p360 on to a SFAC stick? I have no idea where to solder the +5 lead because the SFAC stick is a multi-console stick.

[Servbot001]

I'm not sure if anyone has noted this...but being an electronics major I thought I'd try and help out.

I know on the older PSX pad, it draws a 9v from a line that is not used - the p360 needs a 5v source. No doubt that line exists on the ps2 as well. You can purchase a +5v regulator (radioshack sells em for 1.59 or something) that you can solder in parallel (not series) and provide power for the stick. The ground is always ground, and I'd suggest putting that to the ground pin, but really, anywhere will suffice.

What the regulator does - it limits the output voltage on the line on the other side of the regulator. Viola - instant perfect +5v source.

Personally, I use official psx dualshock pads for all my joystick mods since ps2 pads use analog buttons. I'll be exploring the p360 option soon and I'll post my findings.

course, if this has already been posted (as I'm not keen on reading 10 pages worth of notes) someone can shoot me.

-jin

[Shin Ace]

I think the 9v psx line only applies to pads with rumble, and psx extension cords. I haven't played a lot with psx, but I'm sure some pads leave the 9 volt line unconnected.

Welcome to SRK.

[Servbot001]

I use pads with rumble...namely the PS1 DualShock Pads.

I get em used from EB, Gamestop, etc...for like 3-4 bucks.

The line is there on those i'm pretty sure. I suppose once I get done doing the p360 i'll be working on, I'll create a walk-thru on how to do it yourself. There are plenty of revisions of the PS1 dualshock pad out there, but they all work primarily the same. ;)

edit - the dualshocks allows more button options - R3 and L3. If you're worried about the analog sticks moving inside your casing, hot glue works nicely to hold them in place.

[ashurax]

servbot001, that'd be great if u could post a walkthrough on attaching a voltage regulator. i have a p360 stick that i'd like to wire up to my ps2 but i've always been scared of messing up the controller ports.

[Servbot001]

when I get around to doing that stick (ie get some money...lol)

I'll def make a guide...

[Shin Ace]

The regulator has 3 legs: input, output and ground.
Search the web using the part number of your regulator to find out which pin is which. The 9 volt line is connected to input. Ground on the regulator goes to ground on the pad(not any ground, it has to be a power ground). PSX pads normally use the power ground to ground everything else, so in this case any ground point should do. Now, you take your vcc(5 volt) power from the output pin of the regulator.

[ChainZ]

Please someone make a guide..lol

[yoooooon]

yes, someone please do, i've done many sticks and pcbs, but i can't seem to find this magic 9v, i always get 3.4 on my multimeter. am i retarded?

nm i am retarded

[Dreaded Fist]

the 9v should be pin 3
\ooo|ooo|ooo/

if:
\123|456|789/

Yoooooon, when you plug a dualshock controller in your ps2 does the rumble function works? Because if it doesn't then a fuse in your ps2 is blown and you need to replace it. The 9v is for the rumble feature. You can download this to see which fuse it is:

http://www.saveware.com/Downloads/PS2Fuses.zip



it should be the s7 fuse. Says here that there's actually a 5v power source in the ps2 that's regulated down to 3.5v. I wonder if you can remove the regulator to keep the 5v, but that'll probably fuck up your ps2.

After I get around to doing this I'll post a tut.

[yoooooon]

I took apart the plug to see which wire it was, and in fact it is the purple wire. however, my multimeter broke, so i can't use it anymore...i can't even tell if it is working.


damn, i had the whole thing wired correctly, but it wouldn't work. i never thought about the fuses being blown though, i'll have to check that out. damn, thanks for the tip! this shit has been bugging me like CRAZY.

damnit, that fuse looks hard to replace. WAAHHHHHH!

[Dreaded Fist]

You can tell if its blown up by checking for continuity with a multimeter. If it is you dont' need to replace it you can just solder a new one right on top. I did a rig on my ps2 where i solder 2 wires then run them to the outside of the case and hook up a fuse holder. That way i can just change the fuse easily if it blew up. Also because i couldn't find any surface mount fuse locally :(

[yoooooon]

what is the rating of the fuse exactly? if i were to do a fuse setup like yours?

[Dreaded Fist]

I just used 5x20 size fuse because it was the smallest I could find and whatever rating the old one is. It should say it on the motherboard near the fuse.

Guy at radioshack told me slow blow and fast acting fuses don't matter that much. Is this true?

[Shin Ace]

ps2 fuse is 750 mA, or 3/4 amp, IIRC. You can go up to 1 amp without problems, but don't get slow-blo. You want a fast blow.

[yoooooon]

okay,

so turns out my ps2 doesnt have rumble- ACK! and so does my friend's, and we've been playing on rumble-less ps2s for god knows how long.

in other news, slow blow is for certain things such as large appliances, like dishwashers or something. Things that have a heavy load start-up, but use a lower current to operate normally. Slow blow fuses allow the device to start up while cranking a significant amount more juice flowing through without blowing. they will only blow if the significant amount of juice is constantly flowing for longer than the desired time. i think thats how it works.

[Dreaded Fist]

YOu know what, I don't think it'll be worth it to do the 9v hack then. Because as far as I know , unplugging and plugging controllers while the system is on cause the fuse to blow, so it's pretty likely that alot of people have rumbleless ps2 and your stick won't work right on them. I think the battery method is alot safer, unless everyone decides to make an external fusebox.

[nmbr1krush]

I'm trying to figure out why my directionals on my 360 is going haywire. At the select screen and in-game my character will jump everywhere.

So Bottom line.
-360 worked fine with a H-series grey controller psone pcb, no battery pack method,just soldered to red wire. Ripped pcb,so had to start over.
-Now using another H-series grey controller pcb,soldered to red wire, caused my character to jump around by itself. Thought maybe too much voltage, but couldnt confirm, my multibroke is broken.
-Used the battery pack method exactly like shin ace posted...same problems with 4 AA batterys providing power.
-If I use 3 AA, wont work, cant figure out whats wrong.

Please get me some feedback on what to do, or do I just need to by regulator from radio shack?

edit: bought regulator from radioshack. still didnt work. took the battery pack off, soldered the 5v line to the red wire pin on the pcb. still didnt worked. switched pcbs with a white ps1 dualshock. Nothing. 360 is fine, i soldered a psx controller, and works perfect. still dont know why it wont work with the battery pack.

[Baltimore Chun]

Has anyone put a P360 in a Street Fighter Anniversary Stick?

[ragnafrak]

I'm trying to figure out why my directionals on my 360 is going haywire. At the select screen and in-game my character will jump everywhere.

So Bottom line.
-360 worked fine with a H-series grey controller psone pcb, no battery pack method,just soldered to red wire. Ripped pcb,so had to start over.
-Now using another H-series grey controller pcb,soldered to red wire, caused my character to jump around by itself. Thought maybe too much voltage, but couldnt confirm, my multibroke is broken.
-Used the battery pack method exactly like shin ace posted...same problems with 4 AA batterys providing power.
-If I use 3 AA, wont work, cant figure out whats wrong.

Please get me some feedback on what to do, or do I just need to by regulator from radio shack?

edit: bought regulator from radioshack. still didnt work. took the battery pack off, soldered the 5v line to the red wire pin on the pcb. still didnt worked. switched pcbs with a white ps1 dualshock. Nothing. 360 is fine, i soldered a psx controller, and works perfect. still dont know why it wont work with the battery pack.
i think u NEED to use a 9V battery and a resistor for the battery method

AA batteries only supply 1.5v

[Dreaded Fist]

you only need a 1.5v battery to juice up the 3.5v to 5v. You can use a 9v with a regulator but thats pointless.

nmbr1krush: I think you sodlered to the wrong red wire. it should be the wire coming from the plug not the one the rumble motors are connected to. That one is 9v. That'll give you too much powers and your characters will jump around.

[Adam Warlock]

How would you takeout a competition stick out of a masstick and put in a p 360?

If anyone knows can you help me out? I don't know where the 5v is on the MAS PCB. :sad: It's an old PS2/DC/PC competition MAS stick.

[Baltimore Chun]

I have put a P360 in a Street Fighter Anniversary Stick, and the stick works fine with Capcom Games but not with anything else!! What’s that about?

It works fine with Dreamcast converter (CVS2) thats all i tested it on.

I have used it with a modded xbox,
Emu's don't work
Capcom games do work (cvs2, CFJ, sfAE, 3S)with the Xbox
Any other games does not, Max impact, KOF etc.

I have also tesed it with the PS2, GGX does not work Charter keeps jumping. During game play with CVS2 it works fine but not in the menus.

[shrimpnoodles]

earlier in the thread someone mention something about using a usb port as the power and keep everything on the controller as is. has anyone tried this? and will it fried my ports if i plug in the controller in and the power to the usb for the 360 at the same time?

i think it wouldn't because this would be much like the battery thing where the 360 gets an external power of it's own and the pad has it's own power. i think it would be like wiring up any other joystick (comp super etc..) where you hook up the direction and everything works (wishful thinking). but on the regular joystick you have a ground that you have to hook up...

i don't have a 360 so i don't know what the switches look like. is it like sanwa 5 pin where there's 1 ground and 4 direction? because i see something similar to that in the pic. or is it just 4 directions and the ground is from the 5V/ground wire? if that's the case i don't know what to do.

i was hoping if this works, i will get a 360.

can anyone confirm or tell me what i think is logical?

[timekillr]

Someone mentioned that using the +VCC on the PS2 controller with a regulator wasn't worth it; care to explain why? If it means I don't have to hook up a battery, what makes that option undesirable?

I'm getting a pair of P360s in the mail today, and I was hoping to wire them to H-series PS1 controllers, but if what I'm reading is right, the newer P360s require more power and the 3.3v from the controller isn't enough, which made me think of the 9v thing..

What do you guys mean when you talk about rumbleless PS2? You mean rumbleless PS1 pads, or something else?

[Toodles]

can anyone confirm or tell me what i think is logical?For a while, I was trying to figure out the ghetto setup of the stick plugged into a PSX and a PC at the same time. Then i realized you meant the USB port on the PS2.

Can it work? I dont see why not. I would want to use a multimeter just to be sure 1. The voltage on the USB is +5v like USB spec says it should be 2. The GND on the USB is directly connected to the GND on the PS2 controller port. There is no logical reason why these shouldn't be true, but id want to test for sure.

Why would you want to, though? You would probably be screwed out of playing on original PSX's and PSOne's. No converters would work. If you aren't going to do it the ghetto way of just using the 3.3v line, or the p360 won't work at that reduced voltage, it would be cleaner to build a circuit to bump the voltage up to the +5v. Check a large post from me about half way through the 'bone daddy' thread (search for a thread with 'bone daddy' in the title, from me, in the hardware forum), and I gave a lot of information on a little circuit that does just that. It can easily handle 200mA, plenty for a p360, and puts out +5v if it is getting +3.3v or +5v, or just about anything 2v < x < 5.25v, if I am remembering right. So converters should work fine too.

But, as long as those two points I mentioned are true, I don't see a single reason why you couldn't power it from the USB port. I would recommend you do not try plugging the USB part into a different device like a PC and the PSX at the same time.

[Shin Ace]

The shop I work for is closing down, and we have a couple of old DC-DC converters. If I'm not mistaken, they are 3.3 to 5 volt switching regulators.

[shrimpnoodles]

i remember asking if you can mix the ground up with it's not common and the reply was no. so if i can't mix the ground for the pad, i don't think mixing the ground from usb and ps pad. i read a bit more on it and knows that's there's 6 pin so here's to clearify my questoin.

sorry if i'm not making myself clear on this:

1. just use the power from the usb (just the five volt wire) and splice the usb cable 5V and connect that to the 5V on the p360. i have a usb cable i'm willing to sacrifice. i don't know anything about 300mA or ohms watts. to tell you the truth, i don't even know what a ground is and how it works.

2. solder the ground from the ps0ne PAD (and pad has common ground) to the ground on the p360. leave all the ground wire and 3V wire alone uncut unchange etc... on the pad.

3. and hook up direction.

is this possible?
will it fry the pad, more importantly the PS2 port? i'm not affraid of frying the pad, more of the ps2 port.

i read a bit on the bone daddy thing you mentioned (thanks for the help) and it's looks too complicated for me. i'm more of a "connect this to that" type of person.

i don't care if i can use converters or not since this will be an encoder box project. i just want it to work for the ps2 andnot for anything else.

shinace: if you're suggesting that i should get one of those and do something with it. i wouldn't mind doing that, but i have no idea what to do, where to start, or what it does (other then what the description says "they are 3.3 to 5 volt switching regulators"). and i do'nt know how to go about doing it. thanks though.

[Shin Ace]

You don't want to get involved, unless you enjoy designing circuits.

A ground is a reference point. Normally we connect the negative terminal of a battery(let's say a car battery) to a big chunk of neutral metal(the car's chassis, the tires insulate it from the earth). Now whenever you need a negative battery connection(well start calling it a ground connection from now on) you just find a spot on the car's chassis, clean it, and connect your wire.

Apply that to sticks...The power wire is the positive from the power source. The ground is the negative. Most pads use the same basic design for the switches. Connect one lead of the switch to ground, and the other leads each go into the pads cpu. The cpu detects when a button is pressed because that causes a 0 volt signal to be seen on the input. You can also tell because there will be 0 volts "across" the switch. When the switch is left open, there will be 3.3 volts across it.
This assumes a digital pad.

If you're gonna start messing around with alternate power wires(usb, batteries, etc...), you need to make sure that the alternate power source uses the same ground that the controller port does. If it doesn't, your P360 will simply not work.

[DanimalTree]

I'm trying to find the most elegant/reliable way to transplant a P360 into a Pelican Real Arcade for PS2/X. From what I've read, the bitch is powering the thing, and there are three different options to do so.

After reading many posts on these and other forums and running some tests on my own using a multimeter, I've discovered the following. Keep in mind I have a VERY basic understanding of eletronics here.

1. There is a 9v unused source available from some PSX/PS2 controllers: pin 3.
1.a. This depends on whether there is a wire actually run from the port to the controller.
1.b. After testing continuity between both ends of a few variants of extension cords, some do not have a connection for pin 3 while others do.
1.c. Some PS2s don't supply the 9v for some unknown reason. Someone in this thread mentioned it had to do with a blown fuse. I verified this using my PS2 and a buddy's. Mine supplied the 9v while his did not.
Bottom line. This method is unreliable.

2. Using the 5v from the USB port may be an option.
2.a. The USB and controller port must share the same GND for this to work.
2.b. No one's verified if this should/does work.
This method seems more reliable should it work, but breaks compatibility with PS2 -> X adaptors. I'd like to use the sticks with other consoles.

3. A battery can be used to step-up the controller's native 3.3v source to ~5v.
This sounds simple enough, but for some reason the whole battery thing rubs me the wrong way. I can imagine six months from now blaming a miss-tech in 3rd Strike on a dieing battery.

Anyway, I just wanted to compile the above before I ask an actual question of the more knowledgeable here.

I ran across this little bugger today, and I wanted to see if the electronics buffs here could tell me if it's viable.
http://www.maxim-ic.com/quick_view2.cfm/qv_pk/1837

It supposedly steps-up the input voltage from 2.7v or 5.5v -- 3.3v in this case -- to 5v using a couple capacitors and some crazy magic switching shit that I can't quite wrap my brain around. But I thought, if this things works, it would be by far the most elegant solution, using the native 3.3v source and requiring no battery. It also seems to yield up to 250mA at the output, which seems more than enough for the P360.

Can anyone comment on this?

[Mixah]

how do i hook up a battery to add the extra +5?

[hnix]

http://www.play-hookey.com/dc_theory/voltage_divider.html
for everyone still having problems powering these bad boys. i was too lazy to do the 3.5v + 1.5v (single AA battery) method so i went with a +9v (square-ish) battery and dropped the voltage to +5 and added a switch. simple, straight-forward, fast and it works.

on a side note... what do SANWA FLASH KITS go for these days? i know they are discontinued, but i was cleaning my room last week and found a pair (brand new in the plastic baggies rod sent them in). i used one for myself, which leaves me 1 "spare." anyway, just testing the waters...

[OngBak]

can anyone show me how to install a p360 in a x-arcade?

[NemoKOF]

Is there a chance of installing p360 in HRAP without so sophisticated power supply method? I'm not a electricion. Maybe there's a 5v source on PCB? Anyone checked it??

[BIG BEEF!]

well i just got my 360 i was wondering what kind of ps pad is the best for this

[Toodles]

Is there a chance of installing p360 in HRAP without so sophisticated power supply method? I'm not a electricion. Maybe there's a 5v source on PCB? Anyone checked it??
No matter what the pcb itself is, the actuall wires from the PSX/PS2 are only gonna reliably pump out 3.something volts. For most people, this works fine, but is outside the recommended specs. Read through this thread and use the directions put up on the first few pages.

After you're done reading those, have you put any thought into how the hell you're going to physically FIT a p360 into an HRAP case???

[BIG BEEF!]

A guys i didnt read this thread but i got my 360 a few days ago well today i wired it up PS pcb i got the voltage right everything works except left for some reason it wont registor any ideas on whats wrong?

[BIG BEEF!]

allright so no help ok

[Toodles]

If its one direction only, then its most likely a wiring problem. THe connection from the left signal line from the p360 to the left signal on the pcb isn't working. Bad wire, bad crimp, bad solder to the pcb, something. The proper way to test is with a multimeter. With the multimeter set to resistance (ohms), it should show infinite resistance when the two probes don't touch, and 0 resistance when they do. It you touch one probe to the quick disconnect where it touches the p360, and the other to the pcb somewhere on the left signal, it will likely show infinite resistance. This can be done with the stick unplugged.

[BIG BEEF!]

If its one direction only, then its most likely a wiring problem. THe connection from the left signal line from the p360 to the left signal on the pcb isn't working. Bad wire, bad crimp, bad solder to the pcb, something. The proper way to test is with a multimeter. With the multimeter set to resistance (ohms), it should show infinite resistance when the two probes don't touch, and 0 resistance when they do. It you touch one probe to the quick disconnect where it touches the p360, and the other to the pcb somewhere on the left signal, it will likely show infinite resistance. This can be done with the stick unplugged.



well i tried new wireing still no differnece could it just be the pcb it'self well im going to try and hack a DC pad this time and see if i can get it to work that way

[Toodles]

You need a multimeter to test this thing out properly. If you don't want to do it proper, it least switch the quick disconnects at the p360 between left and right and then wiggle the stick in the game. If you switch, and characters will now walk right but not left, you know its wiring/pcb side. If the characters can walk right but not left, then you're looking at a problem on the p360 side of things.

[Shin Ace]

A guys i didnt read this thread but i got my 360 a few days ago well today i wired it up PS pcb i got the voltage right everything works except left for some reason it wont registor any ideas on whats wrong?

Please xplain how you got the voltage right by wiring up a PSX pad.

[BIG BEEF!]

hey guys i got my 360 up but for some reason it wont do angles it goes every direction but not angles any explanations?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

I took this pic of a HAPP P360 PCB a while ago. Please check it out if anyone wants to:
http://arkadesticks.com/CIMG0695.JPG

[Toodles]

THANK YOU! That looks identical to the layout on a sanwa flash. Can you get a me a pic of the IC, so I can see the numbers and see if I can track down what kind of IC it is? I'm assuming a standard logic gate, but I'd likeot be sure.

And if you're feeling extra kind, a pic of the bottom of that board so I can get the full schematic from it pls?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Toodles
Tomorrow buddy ^_^, must go to bed soon.
Will take pic under it + macropic on the Integrated Circut, no problemo.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Toodles
I am very sick today :(, but I took the pics for you anyway:
http://arkadesticks.com/CIMG0733.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/CIMG0739.JPG

Hope they work for you.

[Toodles]

BIG THANK YOU!

74HC14, cool. Basic chip with many ways of getting. I'll draw up the schematic from those pics, and dig through the digikey catalog to see if I can match those IR transmitters/receivers over this weekend.

I make NO promises, but those three pics should have everything needed for me to put some money done and get sanwa compatible flashes manufactured. Getting the PCBs made and drilled should be no problem.I would just need to figure out how to do the plastic top housing. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm. Maybe even do some math with the LED's specs and make it compatible with anything 3v or better, for hassle free PSX use.
Muhahahaha.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Your welcome.
Or you could make a 3V-pcb Happ P360? Good luck anyway :).

[Shin Ace]

Pretty easy to make a 3.3 to 5 volt version....

The led's don't care, the minimum is satisfied. And by keeping to the HC series(and not HCT) of logic gates that voltage range will be a breeze. LS could suffice in a pinch.

I once modified some microswitches to be optical. It used a high intensity red led, a phototransistor, and some resistors. The output is analog, from 0 volt to supply voltage. I then put the "encoder" into the stick itself, which was just a 74HC14....A hex inverting schmiddt trigger. It does 3 things at once. It converts an analog input to digital output, inverts the signal, and "triggers" it by creating a dead zone. This prevents the output from oscillating, or strobing.
At the end of the day, I experienced problems with the logic gate. I used a 54HC14, 5 volts supply voltage. The most bizarre thing happened, if you smacked a button hard enough, multiple buttons came out.

I have since just swapped the switches for nomal cherrys and bypassed the 74HC14.

If you need help, pm me.

[Toodles]

WTF is the part labelled Q1? An inductor?

Shin Ace, any recommendation on what strength inductor I should use there, if it is one? Or should I just use a small cap across GND and VCC next to the logic chip?

[Shin Ace]

Q is generally a transistor. Took me a minute to find it in the photo, but it's either a standard npn or pnp transistor.

R = resistor
C = cap
U, or IC = IC
Q = transistor
D = diode
F = fuse

I wouldn't bother putting a cap on the supply, maybe a 10 uf electrolytic if you're paranoid.

The resistors are easy to read.....221 is 220 ohms...472 is 4700 ohms

[TheRealNeoGeo]

I was thinking....could we not put it on "outsourceing" in China or something? I belive they have companies that make pcb`s and put whatever on them if you send them a proper scheme. Dunno what minimum order would be though....1000 pcs?
Also, Sanwa uses 6 pinouts (1xground, 4xdirections and 1x+5V) so a new type of connection on the PCB would be nice. Like 6x pins so you can put .110 disconnects on it maybe?

[Toodles]

I'm not bying that Q1 is a transister. There is the +5 going to one leg, but I think those two traces going from the other end are from the same leg. Both traces go to the resister just before an LED. Its also rather odd looking for a surface mount transister. It looks cylindrical, cannister shaped.

TRNG: I dunno. We'll burn that bridge when we get to it. There are plenty of places to get the pcb manufactured and drilled, and most of them have services where you can give them the build of materials and they will do the placement and soldering for you. The part that I'd have to look into is the plastic housing that goes over top and makes it the right thickness for the sanwa stick. I know there are places where I could get it made, and once its fully done, I'm sure emachineshop can make the plastic part. I dunno, but I'll definitely be looking into it.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Toodles
Hmmm....isn`t the Q1 a capacitor (Q1 maybe fauls typing ^_^, because it loks like a capacitor)?
On the other end of it it looks like it is connected to the two resistors with one leg? Do you want me to take a pic of it tomorrow maybe in close-up??

[finkle]

Q1 looks like a diode that would probably be used as a reverse polarity prevention mechanism since its very close to the power input stage.

[Toodles]

Toodles
Hmmm....isn`t the Q1 a capacitor (Q1 maybe fauls typing ^_^, because it loks like a capacitor)?
On the other end of it it looks like it is connected to the two resistors with one leg? Do you want me to take a pic of it tomorrow maybe in close-up??
If you want to and its easy, go ahead, but I really don't have a clue what it's supposed to do, or even why there is anything there at all. Its definitely not a capacitor though. The cap would fill up almost instantly, and then cease letting any current through, making the whole thing act like its dead/unpowered. It could be a diode I suppose, but every surface mount diode I've seen is small and flat, the same size as those surface mount resisters. Plus its drops the voltage (?? maybe it is a diode. The voltage drop from that would probably drop the voltage from a PSX pcb too low for the circuit to reliably operate. Bet a lot of people would like to know, now. good call finkle) I keep thinking its an coil inductor, which would explain why its barrel shaped, and should help protect from rapid current drops. They're also less volatile that capacitors, which is what you normally see to protect against those spiking drops in current. But if it was, Id expect a rating on it.

TRNG, can you take a multimeter to it, and see if its a diode? I don't know how to test if its an inductor, but you can check if its a diode easy.

[Toodles]

Each transmitter portion:
+5v-------220 Ohm--LED---GND
Each receiver portion:
+5v----Receiver*----+-----|>o------output to jamma/pcb
|
+--4700 Ohm----GND

|>o is an inverter gate from the HC14.


Okay, so its a really ungodly simple circuit. I'm guessing the 'Receiver' is a phototransister rather than a photoresister, but I still need to see if I can find a part that matches it in the digikey or mouser catalog. It also seems like the actuator in the stick, at nuetral, stops light from all four directions. The directions actvate when the stick moves, exposing the light to the receiver, not breaking it.

Shin Ace, can you explain why the branch to the 4700 resister and GND? I can understand somewhat; then the receiver is not activated, it shows as a logical LOW to the inverter, but when it is active, wouldn't all of the current go to GND, and still act as a LOW to the inverter?

[Shin Ace]

Q1 looks like a diode that would probably be used as a reverse polarity prevention mechanism since its very close to the power input stage.

Indeed, if there are 2 traces leading up to a semiconductor instead of 3, it is likely a diode. Not necessarily though. If it is a diode, it's just there to protect.

That 4.7k would be a pull-up resistor. All it does it show a gnd signal to the encoder when everything is off, otherwise the photo-transistor will show 5 volts when fully exposed to light/dark and sourcing current. I used the same design for my stuff. The emiiter had a 1000 ohm resistor and the receiver was pulled to....5 volt....with a 10k.

www.geocities.com/alainprice/schematic.jpg

[TheRealNeoGeo]

What about Zener Diod? I don`t think it is a regular diode...
A zener diode may function as a voltage regulator by acting as an accessory load, drawing more current from the source if the voltage is too high, and less if it is too low.

Also, I measured the "diode" and it would (if it were a diod) show zero resp. infinity of resistans.....but it doesn`t show anything at all. I think I have to take it off the pcb to test it right but I don`t know if I wanna do that...

If it is not a diode it is a transistor (thus the Q1), but when I look at it upclose it looks like the two coppertraces (that goes to the resistors) comes from the same leg if it (transistors have 3 legs total).

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Also, it would be cool to have optic Seimitsu LS-32 ^______________________^.

[Shin Ace]

Give the pcb power, now measure the voltage "across" the diode. It should have about 1/2 volt drop.

If you are measuring the resistance of a diode, you have to do it in both directions to know if it is a diode or not.

There is no reason for a zener diode or even transistor on the power line like that. It should be a reverse polarity diode, but that depends on if it has 2 or 3 leads.

[Toodles]

I got the shape of the board measured up as best I can (I REALLY need a good digital calipur) and laid out in EAGLE. Picked the parts out of the digikey catalog, trying to both match what is on the flash I own, and also find a good fit for what it will be doing. Put in the schematic, and am now laying out the parts, starting with through-hole components for a prototype or three; I can always re-do it with surface mount components later, if there is enough demand to make me want to have it fully assembled in some south china sweatshot. I dont have the tools to do surface mount properly. I have the led's and receivers mounted as close to the dimensions as I could measure on my original flash. Hopefully this weekend I can get the resisters and single IC laid out in a way that EAGLE can autoroute all of the via's and traces. If so, I may be able to get a couple of prototype pcb's ordered next weekend.

I'll be happy to post up what I do and the schematics and all if anyone is interested. Be advised though, making a couple WILL NOT BE CHEAP! Even if I go with a budget pcb manufacturing place, like through futurelec, it'll be about $3 per board, plus a $15 setup fee per order (5 pieces, $30 + shipping. 1 piece: $18 + shipping). Add in about $18 in components per board, and