Real Arcade > Easy Mod with Headset Support

[Phil McFly]

I bought a Pelican Universal Real Arcade joystick. It was $49.99 and it has headset support. I don't know what people are saying about the headset not working but I bought mine recently... like 2 weeks ago.

I got 11 buttons and a competition stick from
http://www.happcontrols.com
for $32.00 with shipping.

You'll want these buttons
http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/5896xxl.htm
(Color selection is there... I used every color on my stick if you're wondering how they look.)

You'll want this stick
http://www.happcontrols.com/joysticks/competition_joy.htm
(Color selection is there... I chose red so it stands out in the black.)

Perfect 360's are like 50 bucks and there's no 5v wire to hook it up to in the real arcade unless you change the PCB... which is pointless if you paid $30-$50 for it.

The microswitches are really really easy to replace. I decided to keep the original switches (cuz i had no problem with the button respone... just the physical button itself. But if you want to resolder the microswitches with the happcontrol switches that come with the buttons, the points are huge to solder so any novice solderer can do it. The stick is easy to put in... but kinda tricky to solder to the side (I'm ok at soldering... few system mods but never a joystick... cept for some Sanwa buttons).

I just did the wires one by one so i could keep track... on the buttons and especially the stick.

Here's 6 pics...
http://philmcfly.hopto.org/realmod/

Competition stick with 11 competition convex buttons in a joystick that supports PSOne, PS2, Gamecube & XBox with XBox Live Headset support for $49.99 + $2.99 NJ state tax + $32.00 happcontrols = $84.98 for a good 4 system stick. My only problem with this is that my Total Control 5 PS/Saturn to Dreamcast adapter doesn't work with it... grr.

Special thanks to DevilJin for the suggestion and installation help... and ScootMagee for the comic relief and bit of help as well. This probably belongs in the hardware thread, but I figured some of you just care about a stick for live with the headset support. Reply to this thread if you have any questions.

-McFly

[WasFemto]

This is cool. I was looking at the Happs website last night and was about to ask about the 360. I say we keep this here 'cuz I know me and a couple of other people here are planning to mod their Pelicans(well I guess we could PM you or DevilJin). On the website I couldn't find the competiton buttons, the only buttons I came across were Pushbutton woth Horizontal w/ Microswtich and the Ultimate pushbutton w/ microswitch. Help would be appreciated.

[Phil McFly]

Look up top for the link to the buttons and the stick.

Yea I figured a LOT of you on here have this stick. I always wanted to mod one but don't know if I'm going to keep it... since my friend really needs one. I was thinking about rewiring all my Sanwa sticks.

-McFly

[WasFemto]

You'll want these buttons
http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/5896xxl.htm
(Color selection is there... I used every color on my stick if you're wondering how they look.)

You'll want this stick
http://www.happcontrols.com/joysticks/competition_joy.htm
(Color selection is there... I chose red so it stands out in the black.)

-McFly

DOH! :looney: Sorry about that.

[Legendary Gokou]

The Pelican universal arcade sticks go for 30 here, and the console specific ones go for 20 bucks. I don't know if thats everywhere in the US or not, but that's what they're priced here.

[one8seventony]

does these pelican universal arcade stick support headset? i never knew that =D

[tntrulez]

Good luck getting the headset support to work. I think over 80% of the sticks ship with broken headset ports.

[Toodles]

Mod looks clean. For anyone thinking of doing this, or going with a custom or new stick with a competition stick in it, get the hard spring to go in it. It comes standard with a soft spring, but you can get a hard spring from Happs for like 43cents. It isn't as stiff as a p360, but feels so much better for fighters than the soft spring. Better return to center action for dragon punches, etc. Part number 95-1309-01

Just my opinion.

[Vonism]

Look up top for the link to the buttons and the stick.

Yea I figured a LOT of you on here have this stick. I always wanted to mod one but don't know if I'm going to keep it... since my friend really needs one. I was thinking about rewiring all my Sanwa sticks.

-McFly

dude. i have this stick and when i play in the arcade it really mess me up bc of the layout. btw i know this been ask before but i'm to lazy to look around. can u put 360 in this baby?

[WasFemto]

Mod looks clean. For anyone thinking of doing this, or going with a custom or new stick with a competition stick in it, get the hard spring to go in it. It comes standard with a soft spring, but you can get a hard spring from Happs for like 43cents. It isn't as stiff as a p360, but feels so much better for fighters than the soft spring. Better return to center action for dragon punches, etc. Part number 95-1309-01

Just my opinion.

Opinion appreciated. It will still be a couple of weeks to a month before I get the parts but any info is nice. :tup:

[ChaosNightWolf]

How does that button lay out feel compared to regular american layout?

[Phil McFly]

The Pelican universal arcade sticks go for 30 here, and the console specific ones go for 20 bucks. I don't know if thats everywhere in the US or not, but that's what they're priced here.

Yea... NJ sucks... gotta pay the 50... :(. I never see single system Real Arcade's here either.

Mod looks clean. For anyone thinking of doing this, or going with a custom or new stick with a competition stick in it, get the hard spring to go in it. It comes standard with a soft spring, but you can get a hard spring from Happs for like 43cents. It isn't as stiff as a p360, but feels so much better for fighters than the soft spring. Better return to center action for dragon punches, etc. Part number 95-1309-01

Just my opinion.

Got a link to this part? I put 95-1309-01 into search and can't seem to find it... same with "hard spring".

dude. i have this stick and when i play in the arcade it really mess me up bc of the layout. btw i know this been ask before but i'm to lazy to look around. can u put 360 in this baby?

You can put one in, but you have to take the board out and put in an XBox one. There's no 5V which the P360 needs to be installed.

How does that button lay out feel compared to regular american layout?

Well the layout just angles down slightly. You wouldn't notice it unless you're just THAT used to having completely horizontal buttons corresponding to each other. The setup can be used to GGXX, 6 Button Fighters, Soul Calibur, etc. It's not really a difference... I don't see anyone missing the buttons with their hands just cuz it angles down slightly.

-McFly

[Jesmaster]

I think I found out what the problem with the headset was. It looks like old versions of this stick are still at some stores. The older one has the headset port in the front of the stick, this is the one that doesn't work. I bought one of those and the headset port didn't work so I returned the next day and I went to another store and I looked at their stick and it was a bit different. The headset port was on the side this time. So I figured maybe this one may work and sure enough it works fine. Now the store I bought the older stick from got two more sticks shipped to them, both with the headset port on the side of the stick so it looks like they are shipping ones that work now.

Breif summary of above: When you but the Universal Real Arcade, check if the xbox live headset port is on the right side of the sitck, if it is then you found the newer model which will work fine. Do not get the one with the headset port in the front.

[DevilJin 01]

I have the one with the headset port in front of the stick. I bought the stick maybe a few weeks after it first came out. Never EVER had a problem with the headset even until today. Here are some pics...

http://members29.clubphoto.com/harvey871374/2585559/guest.phtml

Though that's probably just cuz I happen to be one of the lucky few with one that didn't have any headset issues. :pleased:

[DevilJin 01]

Well the layout just angles down slightly. You wouldn't notice it unless you're just THAT used to having completely horizontal buttons corresponding to each other. The setup can be used to GGXX, 6 Button Fighters, Soul Calibur, etc. It's not really a difference... I don't see anyone missing the buttons with their hands just cuz it angles down slightly.

-McFly

Yeah, not to mention that's the traditional Japanese button layout on the Pelican any ways. It's very easy to manage.

[Klaige]

First off thanks for the idea and pics on this, much appriciated. This is my first stick mod so I had a question about changing out the buttons. I'm planning on keeping the original microswitches (stick has never been used, got it discounted cuz some kid spilled pop on it but it just got the buttons sticky). but how do I go about popping out the original buttons. I noticed in the pictures the black ring around the original buttons at the top of the case is gone and it's just the competition buttons. How do you pop out the original buttons without damaging the casing?

Thanks in advance.

[Phil McFly]

First off thanks for the idea and pics on this, much appriciated. This is my first stick mod so I had a question about changing out the buttons. I'm planning on keeping the original microswitches (stick has never been used, got it discounted cuz some kid spilled pop on it but it just got the buttons sticky). but how do I go about popping out the original buttons. I noticed in the pictures the black ring around the original buttons at the top of the case is gone and it's just the competition buttons. How do you pop out the original buttons without damaging the casing?

Thanks in advance.

First remove the microswitch by removing the peg from the upper right hole, then rotate it up, and pull out the bottom peg. Now unscrew the ring around the button counterclockwise and pull it off. Now pull the button out from the TOP (the part you're hitting when you use the stick) of the joystick. Replace with a competition button and push it in and screw on the new ring. Then reattach the microswitch by putting in the bottom peg first... then rotating into the top peg. Do it one at a time so you don't mess up the button order.

-McFly

[Klaige]

Awesome, thanks a ton. Looking forward to seeing you all on #R starting this week.

[Phil McFly]

You said get the hard spring part 95-1309-01.

I can't seem to find that on the happcontrols site. Could you send a link?

-McFly

The spring is in the diagram of the stick itself... "Hard Spring".


http://www.happcontrols.com/joystic...ition_joy_e.htm

To order, log into Happs, and 'Build order by part no.'. Enter in the number and its done. $0.43

Thanks a lot.

-McFly

[WasFemto]

Awesome, thanks a ton. Looking forward to seeing you all on #R starting this week.

I'll be there, but with an unmodded PAS :bluu:

[GyBaNO]

I have the one with the headset port in front of the stick. I bought the stick maybe a few weeks after it first came out. Never EVER had a problem with the headset even until today. Here are some pics...

http://members29.clubphoto.com/harvey871374/2585559/guest.phtml

Though that's probably just cuz I happen to be one of the lucky few with one that didn't have any headset issues. :pleased:

My headset port works like a dream as well; now all I gotta do is wait until my aunt's slight credit card problem gets fixed, then I can order the comp buttons and stick so that it can play like a dream too. Until then, I'll be representing with my good ol' Controller S!
:tup:

[Klaige]

I'll be there, but with an unmodded PAS :bluu:

My modded PAS is just to tide me over til I can get my good custom stick sent down to Texas and have a dualshock PCB put in it. Cuz for now every x-box converter known to man won't work with my stick and it's digital PCB, grr. Luckily Dreaded Fist is cool enough to replace it for me.

[WasFemto]

I'll use a modded PAS 'till I can scrape enough change to get a stick from DF. Those sticks are too fucking sick!

[Neo DX90]

Quick question... sorta

I got my PAS about two months ago (give or take a few weeks). Every so often it'll be stuck moving in one dirction. This rarely happens, though, and when I checked it didn't seem like the microswitches were sticking. Of course, I haven't checked when it actually happens.

I've been toying around with the idea of modding my PAS for a while anyway, and after seeing this thread, I think I will.

Now the question, should I get new microswitches too, just in case?

[Phil McFly]

Quick question... sorta

I got my PAS about two months ago (give or take a few weeks). Every so often it'll be stuck moving in one dirction. This rarely happens, though, and when I checked it didn't seem like the microswitches were sticking. Of course, I haven't checked when it actually happens.

I've been toying around with the idea of modding my PAS for a while anyway, and after seeing this thread, I think I will.

Now the question, should I get new microswitches too, just in case?

Every competition convex button you purchase includes a Happcontrol Cherry Microswitch & ring you screw around the button to hold it down.

-McFly

[Neo DX90]

Cool beans

Thanx

[johnaero]

i just got a pelican stick today. i like the button layout...definitely gonna get some convex competition buttons.

phil, you have any experience with japanese sanwa parts? how difficult would it be to swap in a sanwa stick? i never really did any mods before, but figure it might be a worthwhile project.

edit: btw, my headset acts really weird. when i plug in the adapter, the green light goes on, but then the controller goes unrecognized by my xbox. i have to unplug and replug it in for it to register any commands. is there anything i can do about this?

[InVINCEable]

Hey guys havent posted in awhile but with the release of Guilty Gear I may be back on the boards. I think I may go out and try to find a working Pelican w/headset here sometime in the near future. I want to be able to talk to some of these guys that i use to play CvS with so I can get some pointers on this game. I will be a complete n00b when I get online. Hope to see some of you in the near future.

[Neo DX90]

i just got a pelican stick today. i like the button layout...definitely gonna get some convex competition buttons.

phil, you have any experience with japanese sanwa parts? how difficult would it be to swap in a sanwa stick? i never really did any mods before, but figure it might be a worthwhile project.

edit: btw, my headset acts really weird. when i plug in the adapter, the green light goes on, but then the controller goes unrecognized by my xbox. i have to unplug and replug it in for it to register any commands. is there anything i can do about this?

Oooo, I like Sanwa sticks. I'd like to know about this as well.

[Phil McFly]

i just got a pelican stick today. i like the button layout...definitely gonna get some convex competition buttons.

phil, you have any experience with japanese sanwa parts? how difficult would it be to swap in a sanwa stick? i never really did any mods before, but figure it might be a worthwhile project.

edit: btw, my headset acts really weird. when i plug in the adapter, the green light goes on, but then the controller goes unrecognized by my xbox. i have to unplug and replug it in for it to register any commands. is there anything i can do about this?

Sanwa I've only replaced buttons in my Soul Calibur II stick (which is a fuckin bitch if you don't have a solder sucker). Otherwise you probably can't properly fit a Sanwa stick into an american stick... at leas the PAS that is... the fitting is WAY different. Jap shit for jap sticks, US shit for US sticks is the way it is... besides Sanwa parts are a bitch to come by unless you don't give a shit about the shipping costs.

-McFly

[GyBaNO]

Question: Do I have to install the hardspring into the competition stick when i get one, or does it come already installed inside if I order it like so.

Just wondering...

Hey DevilJin, I like your pelican button color setup with the comp buttons. I think I'll do the same with mine, but I'm going to use two other weird colors for the other two B&W buttons. I'm going to go with the green or red comp stick as well. I'll be placing my order on the 17th or 18th.

[Klaige]

Hey I need a bit of help if anyone can provide. I got my stick all modded and it works great, on my xbox and gamecube. The one problem... my ps2 doesn't detect it at all. When I plug it in, no response, no nothing, the mode light won't even activate if I hit the mode button.

Any suggestions on what I might have screwed up in the modding process? I don't see an singed wires or anything that got put out of place when I replaced the stick and resoldered the wires. Phil did you run into anything like this? It's just the PS2, it works like a dream on the xbox and the gamecube.

Thanks in advance.

[Klaige]

I did some more testing this morning to try and figure out my problem, now here is the damndest thing.

When I plug the ps2 cord into my dreamcast converter, the buttons react and work on the dreamcast, but I still get no stick movement. If i hit the mode button (the analog button is what I'm assuming it is) it'll get sparatic movement on the dc but that's it.

So any ideas on what the hell is wrong here? I get no response at all on the PS2, button response on a DC with a PS2 converter and flawless response on X-box and GC.

:confused:

[CrotchMonkey]

whats PAS, pelican arcade stick?

and what is MAS?

[Klaige]

Mas is just a stick from massystems. Anyone have a suggestion for my stick, I'm completely out of ideas.

[johnaero]

Sanwa I've only replaced buttons in my Soul Calibur II stick (which is a fuckin bitch if you don't have a solder sucker). Otherwise you probably can't properly fit a Sanwa stick into an american stick... at leas the PAS that is... the fitting is WAY different. Jap shit for jap sticks, US shit for US sticks is the way it is... besides Sanwa parts are a bitch to come by unless you don't give a shit about the shipping costs.

-McFly

i did some research on this since i was pretty serious of doing it. but in the end, it seemed like more work and required more tools than i had. but you can top mount the sanwa. if you want to do it, here are the links.

sanwa w/mounting plate (http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/systems/Tutorial.htm)

sanwa w/out mounting plate (http://www.geocities.com/jude_ian_2002/mounting_plate_pictures.html)

just thought i'd throw those out there if anyone else was wondering about using the pelican case to do this. you can order a sanwa w/out mounting plate for $23, and replace the buttons with happ convex buttons for a pretty nice japanese style stick. the case would look kind've big and ugly, but cheap alternative for a multi-system japanese stick. it'll just a lot more work to drop a sanwa in there as opposed to a competition stick.

[Phil McFly]

Hey I need a bit of help if anyone can provide. I got my stick all modded and it works great, on my xbox and gamecube. The one problem... my ps2 doesn't detect it at all. When I plug it in, no response, no nothing, the mode light won't even activate if I hit the mode button.

Any suggestions on what I might have screwed up in the modding process? I don't see an singed wires or anything that got put out of place when I replaced the stick and resoldered the wires. Phil did you run into anything like this? It's just the PS2, it works like a dream on the xbox and the gamecube.

Thanks in advance.

No, never. I don't know what to tell you... just look again to make sure none of the wires are touching each other.

-McFly

[WasFemto]

Hey Phil can you give alittle run down on the modded PAS compared to the stock PAS. I know it will be better, but small things like, with the competiton stick is it a little quieter with the clicks and are moves easier to pull off, if you were having trouble with in the first place that is and the such.



Thanx.

[Phil McFly]

Hey Phil can you give alittle run down on the modded PAS compared to the stock PAS. I know it will be better, but small things like, with the competiton stick is it a little quieter with the clicks and are moves easier to pull off, if you were having trouble with in the first place that is and the such.

Thanx.

The buttons don't stick.
The buttons are easier to push and you can finger slide over them... hence rom infinite for MvC2... or just quick hits. The microswitches from happ are much much much better too. When you hit the button it's so easy to confirm it hit and it's guaranteed.

The stick isn't so shitty either. Doing moves is much easier and the stick is much stiffer (not P360 stiff).

I tested the stick with A-Groove because well... CC's are what you need ot be able to do to see if a stick works heh. I tried the following combos (on both sides) to tune a stick.

Repeat the brackets

A-Sakura
Cross up MK, c.lp, c.lk > activate > lk > [Sho-Sho] > Super SRK

A-Yun
Close MK > activate > lp > [Shoulder Ram > Press] to corner > press til bar is almost gone > shoulder ram > close mk (juggle), jump up and dive kick, land, close mk > super jump cancel lp, F+hp

A-Akuma
Cross up Mk, fp, lk hurricane x 2 > activate, hp, [FK Demon Flip > FK > lk hurricane > land 3 hit FB] to corner, 3 hit fb til bar > super fb

A-Geese
deep Cross up mk > activate , c.lk > [geese rush, FP x3] til corner, double fireball > c.fk > rising storm

A-Bison
Jump in cross up FK, c.lp, c.lp, s.lk, lk scissor > actiavate > [mk, lk/mk scissor kick to corner], Paint > super scissor

Hmm that may be too many combos but if any of these work the stick should be working perfectly... there's so many insta motions that it needs to be perfect to pull off.

-McFly

[Klaige]

I found out what the problem was, for some reason the controller ports on my ps2 don't like the pelican stickss. The stick works great on my friends PS2.

[WasFemto]

*snip*

-McFly


Thanks alot man :tup:

[DevilJin 01]

Just got my parts in from Happ today. Got a Red Competition stick and some extra buttons. When I'm finished putting shit in and decorating it a bit I'll post some pics.

[GyBaNO]

Just got my parts in from Happ today. Got a Red Competition stick and some extra buttons. When I'm finished putting shit in and decorating it a bit I'll post some pics.

Bah, I chickened out and only ordered the competition buttons. The stick looked pretty complicated to solder in. Since you have the same stick(with the same guts) that I do, please, and if you would'nt mind, give me a few pointers on how to solder that badboy in properly without ruining anything, I mean, some of the wires are the exact some color and all. Shit....

I'll order the stick in another week as it stands.

[Klaige]

Here's my suggestion. Write down on the inside of the casing which way the wires go. If the yellow wire is on one side of the casing for example, write that down and so forth. Then pull the wires that you solder to the joystick out of the little connector that attatches to the board (it pulls right out). Solder the wires to the new stick before you screw it into the casing making sure the wires go in the right order (mine were of a length that only allowed them to solder to certain microswitches so it was easy to keep track) then when you put the base of the stick (the part with the microswitches) into the casing, just match up with the order you wrote down on the casing and plug the wire harness back into it's connector.

[GyBaNO]

Thanks, I just asked my uncle for a few tips as well(basically the same thing you just said). So I'll probably do that when the piece comes in next week when I order it on Friday. I'm soldering in the buttons though(or would you recommend that as well). Those should be here tomorrow.

[Klaige]

If the microswitches are in good shape you don't really need to do anything but replace the buttons. The only soldering you need for the buttons is if you want to use the Happ cherry microswitches instead of the ones already in the stick.

[GyBaNO]

Thanks bro! :tup: Also, I'm going to get the hardspring in the stick for tighter control. Is it already installed in the stick or do i have to put it in myself.

[Klaige]

That I'm not sure of, I just ordered mine with the default spring. I'm guessing you'll have to pull apart the base and switch the spring manually. It shouldn't be terribly difficult but there are a lot of little parts insie the base so you'll wanna be careful.

[Phil McFly]

I'm not sure if the spring comes preinstalled, as I ordered mine after I got the stick.

As for wiring it, I just put the joysticks side by side. As soon as I desoldered 1 wire, I soldered it onto the other, and so on til all of them were in place. I had no problem. Just keep in mind that there are 3 prongs on Happ Control Cherry Microswitches and there are only 2 prongs on the stock PAS stick. If it doesn't work, move the black wire to the next prong, etc..., etc...

As for the buttons, it's an easy solder if you feel like doing it. The points are huge and can't really make contact with other points unless you just bombard the thing with solder all over the place. I personally didn't resolder the new switches on and just kept them to the side. I figure if these switches work, I might as well use them until I need to resolder them one by one to make more use out of the buttons before ordering more shit.

-McFly

[GyBaNO]

Alright, I'll order the spring anyway(its only a few cents), and thanks again for the tips, guys. :tup: I just went and purchased a soldering pen(I have a new pack of solder already) today. I guess doing shit like this is eventual sometimes. Heh.

[trabus]

I just got my parts today. The heavy spring was not preinstalled, it comes in a seperate package. All you have to do is remove 4 screws to install it though. I'll be using quick disconnects (0.187 inch, which supposedly fit cherry microswitches perfectly) instead so I'll post some pics when I'm done.

Just keep in mind that there are 3 prongs on Happ Control Cherry Microswitches and there are only 2 prongs on the stock PAS stick. If it doesn't work, move the black wire to the next prong, etc..., etc...
If you look really close on the Cherry switches, you'll see a little diagram on the side that says this:

O
/ NC
/ 2
/
O O
COM NO
1 3

COM= Common ground- used as the ground
NC= Normally Closed- used for circuits that should open/break when the switch is pressed
NO= Normally Open- used for circuits that should close/complete when the switch is pressed

So you'll want to wire the ground to the silver prong on the bottom of the switch (the one that says COM above it). The live wire should be attached to the bottom gold prong (the one with NO next to it) because you only want the circuit to complete when the button is pressed.

I also found this guide to wiring microswitches if its any help to others doing this:
http://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/madcatz2.htm

[GyBaNO]

Cool, that doesn't seem terribly complicated by any means. I just got my buttons in today as well.

[DevilJin 01]

Hey, Phil how did you get the stick out? Like what tool did you use to pull the nuts off of the 4 screws that hold down the joystick to the stick itself. I've tried using different sizes of wrenches and tools and nothing works.

[trabus]

I just finished pulling the joystick out a couple minutes ago. I just used some regluar pliers to hold the nuts in place while I used a screwdriver on the other side, and some needlenose pliers to pull off the e-ring (that little bugger was a pain in the ass, I kinda demolished it. :badboy: ).

I'm just about to do my crimping. :)

[trabus]

Well, just finished testing it and it works great. Its going to take some getting used to the heavy spring, my wrist is a bit sore after only an hour. I really like it though, thanks for the tips Phil!

[trabus]

Not that it looks any different from Phil's pelican (except that I used quick connects and the button colors are different) here's a pic of my modded pelican.
http://www.trabusproject.com/images/pelican.jpg

I ended up sticking with the original microswitches for the buttons since they all worked fine. If any of them fuck up though, I'll probably go through and replace them all just to get it done.

[Phil McFly]

Well, just finished testing it and it works great. Its going to take some getting used to the heavy spring, my wrist is a bit sore after only an hour. I really like it though, thanks for the tips Phil!


Anytime... glad it worked out for you... now if only the mod could fix the lag =Þ

-McFly

[GyBaNO]

Are those clamps on the stick's microswitches!? If so, how'd you manage that one?

[trabus]

Those are quick disconnects. Like the ones on this page:
http://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/madcatz2.htm

One note though, if you do use them, you'll need some more wire to do it. The ground wires are not very long and won't reach if you try to use the crimping technique. Also be very careful on how much you take off of the brown wire (the one that goes to the top right corner of the joystick) because its way shorter than the rest of the wires and you don't have a lot to work with. I had to bend my microswitch prongs to make it reach.

[SD Bishounen]

Hey, people... I'm new here. I actually joined for this very thread -- trabus actually linked me to it. ^_^

Anyway, I've ordered parts from Happs to mod my PAS and I was thinking about taking this a step further. I really don't like that crappy black veneer surface on the stick, and was considering either peeling it off and refinishing the box or just gutting the entire PAS and putting everything into my own stick. The benefit to the former would be that it's probably less work just to peel the contact paper and put new stuff on paint it. The benefit to the latter would be that I can design the button layout myself. Anyway, anyone else here considered doing this, or know what would be good for finishing the stick if I decide to get rid of the crappy black veneer that's on it now? ^_^;;

[urth]

The Pelican universal arcade sticks go for 30 here, and the console specific ones go for 20 bucks. I don't know if thats everywhere in the US or not, but that's what they're priced here.

WOW 30?! its 49.99 in NY. How much would shipping be from texas to NY :smile: Would you buy one and send it to me if I paid you via paypal or Money order?

[Tranman409]

do you think its possible for me to use the old microswitches from the joystick to a new competition stick??
also im havin a hard time gettin hte old joystick out lol. the freakin e-ring is sooooooo hard to get out. Do you think its possible to saw off the top of the joystick handle??I prob go buy one tommorow afternoon

[Aegis High]

Alright, question. Let's say I buy this PAS and add the Happ Competition stick to it. Would it be possible to remove just the 'top handle' part of the competition stick to replace it with the ball-top handle from my old stick?

Keep in mind, that I don't mean the _entire_ stick, simply the handle top.

[trabus]

Okay, after testing it out with GGX2#R, I have to say its pretty freaking cool to have a stick that works with XBL. I had some problems today with the pelican microswitches going out though, but I just replaced them all with the cherry switches to keep that from happening anymore.

I highly reccomend getting one and modding it with happ parts. :)

Aegis High: I don't think you can take the top off of that shaft, and if you could, I don't think you could replace it with a balltop. You may be able to use a different shaft that the balltop can screw onto. Though, you might need to take a part or two off of the competition stick to make the other shaft fit right.

[CrotchMonkey]

the pelican microswitches work just as well as cherry switches? is there a difference between them?

is there any soldering required when putting a comp stick into a pas?

[trabus]

I think there is a big difference between the stock microswitches and cherry microswitches, considering I had two fail on me today. So no I wouldn't say that they work as well as cherry microswitches.

As far as the soldering goes, I use quick disconnects instead. So there are options to soldering, it just depends upon your preference. Soldering isn't that hard, its just that I don't really want to be bothered with it. :P

[Doomsday]

I just thought some of you would like to know. I just modded a Pelican Real Arcade Universal with a P360 from Happ tonight. :wgrin: I dunno why you guys complain about the buttons they work just fine.
(Just don't bash them with hammers and they should work just as well as the cherrys from Happ)

I thought about modding the buttons but its just not worth it. If the cherrys go out you can replace them with the ones from the original stick, or trash them all together. Either way the point is to upgrade with less money involved.

My mod was tested on the Xbox and the Playstation 2.(Didn't try the Gamecube but it should work considering I used the Pelican Universal's original electronics.) I heard alot of crap on the net about the P360 not working due to the voltage requirements. But as always I disreguard the mis-information abundant on said forums.

So to all you suckas out there talking trash about Pelicans Universal you can suck-it. It works just fine. Nuff said.

Asmodeus :woot:

http://www.nimeous.com/images/p360pelican.jpg

[CrotchMonkey]

are you serious? a p360 hooks into a pelican without battery support?

how does it play?

[QuBix]

I got a question. I just ordered my PAS and it should be here in time for SFAC North American version. Anyway, what do I need to order from happcontrolls.com? Is it only the Happ Comp Pushbuttons and the Happ comp Stick? or is there more to it. I know the mircroswitches come with the buttons. Do I need anything else from happ or is that it? Please answer asap because I wanna order today. Thanks.

PS: When you change the buttons. Do you solder the wires to the new ones (microswithes)? I don't wanna use quick disconnects because I don't feel like going to radio shack and looking for them. Plus I don't know the size.

[Captain Ryu]

I got a question. I just ordered my PAS and it should be here in time for SFAC North American version. Anyway, what do I need to order from happcontrolls.com? Is it only the Happ Comp Pushbuttons and the Happ comp Stick? or is there more to it. I know the mircroswitches come with the buttons. Do I need anything else from happ or is that it? Please answer asap because I wanna order today. Thanks.

PS: When you change the buttons. Do you solder the wires to the new ones (microswithes)? I don't wanna use quick disconnects because I don't feel like going to radio shack and looking for them. Plus I don't know the size.

Yeah all you need are the comp stick and the buttons. Thats it.

Basically all you have to do is take out the old pelican buttons and switches, then put the new ones in and solder the wires back to the new ones. Same exact thing with the stick.

[QuBix]

Yeah all you need are the comp stick and the buttons. Thats it.

Basically all you have to do is take out the old pelican buttons and switches, then put the new ones in and solder the wires back to the new ones. Same exact thing with the stick.

That's it eh?...sounds easy and maybe the only thing hard will be taking out the old stick, lol. I heard the nuts/spring is hard to get. Anyway, thanks man. I can't wait to this now. Sounds like fun.

[GyBaNO]

That's it eh?...sounds easy and maybe the only thing hard will be taking out the old stick, lol. I heard the nuts/spring is hard to get. Anyway, thanks man. I can't wait to this now. Sounds like fun.

It is easy. My comp stick should be here on Wendsday or Thursday. The soldering of the buttons is complete.

[QuBix]

It is easy. My comp stick should be here on Wendsday or Thursday. The soldering of the buttons is complete.

I actually found a store in my city that sells all the arcade parts and they order from Happcontrols. Awesome!!! I don't have to order anything now. ALl I gotta do is travel 30 minutes and all the Joysticks and Buttons are at my disposal. I just save loads of money by the way. I'm in canada so the shipping would be more and than the duty fees etc. I will have my buttons at $2 Canadian a pop and the stick will be $15 Canadian. And I pick it up myself. Nice.

[GyBaNO]

Well, in case you missed it at GameFaqs, I finished my stick. Here's a pic:

Gyb's Arcade Stick (http://img181.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img181&image=10001694wl.jpg)

You finished yours as well, right?

[dmnall]

Well sorry for originally posting a dumb a$$ question, I did figure out how to get the stick open. When I was looking at it after I bought it, it never occured to me, to look under the rubber feet. Oh well, I will be modding mine w/ new switches, new Buttons and New Stick later on this week. Soldering is gonna be easy!

dmnall

[orochi man]

Wow thanks for all this info i have just decided to custom my universal pelican.I am going to take out the guts and make another box with baddass art.I am going to use the competition stick and buttons which i heard are better.Do u guys have any advice for a rookie like me.Ohh and does any one have a link to a website on how to hack this stick much appreaciated.THanks in advance

[mahzilla]

just modded my stick using the information on this post. I'll say that the mods are a huge improvement over the factory stick and buttons, I can pull dp and fireball with ease now and my first victim using ryu was against a ranked 57 player who used akuma and disconnected on me when he lost :-P

[dmnall]

I just finished my Pelican late last night. From the pics that were on the site, my pelican was a little different, however, I had to take a round file and file out the holes for competition buttons, to sit flush on the pas cabinet. Add the fact that original buttons were kind of a pita to remove being the nut that holds each button were extremely tight. However, after removing all wires from the button switches and the stick, then transfering them to the new switches was not too bad, just had to tin each pins that I used on the new cherry switches. The end result after around 4 - 5 hours for my first stick mod. If I would have just used my Dremel Tool it would have cut my time in Half, oh well. The mod itself is not hard just time consuming but the end result is shoryukens and hadoukens with ease as well.

Charlie

[mahzilla]

what I did to remove the buttons was to pop the plastic buttons off, then insert a plier into the holes that held the plastic and unscrewed the housing.

[dmnall]

what I did to remove the buttons was to pop the plastic buttons off, then insert a plier into the holes that held the plastic and unscrewed the housing.

Did you have to file out the wholes on your stick to get the comp. buttons to fit in the holes?

Charlie

[mahzilla]

everything fit perfectly for me. some were a little tight, but I just push down hard on them

[dmnall]

everything fit perfectly for me. some were a little tight, but I just push down hard on them

I had 2 buttons total that were really close on mine but they would not go in all the way to sit flush and the other holes were a little smaller even the stock buttons were a little tight, one thing I do like is how stick feels with the new switches/buttons and stick. A lot better compared to stock.

Charlie

[P L A C E R]

what about modding a ps2 pelican,no difference i hope. the hand-me-down pelican i got is broken and the PCB is said to be shot. so im looking to completely rebuild that bitch with Happs. so thats 10 buttons,a stick,and a PCB. the question is though: which PCB? im considering a p360 cause i heard the PS2 dualshock analog remotes can operate the 5v,but anyone else know for a fact which PCB's i can get to operate the 5v?

:tup:

[indigo0086]

NM, found out what was wrong, one of the little switches bar is bent so it makes it always activated, just get that new stick in.

[indigo0086]

damn, every time I insert the xbl headset into the Pelican Real Arcade, it disconnects the controller .