View Full Version : Official Sanwa Modification Thread
blueoakleyz
02-07-2005, 02:52 AM
Definately www.himuragames.com very cheap for import quality parts, great customer service, highly recommended
Duelist
02-07-2005, 06:07 AM
You can solder directly to the microswitches, I've done it before and it works fine. I had a hard time finding the correct connecter to fit a Sanwa stick, that is why I chose to solder direct. (I am too cheap to pay $9.00 for a pre-wired one at Himura Games, when I could just make one myself)
Did you do anything to the microswitches before you soldered to them? I tried soldering to them but the solder itself wouldn't stick.
DarkChylde
02-07-2005, 07:54 AM
The flip-top, the handle, and the wire holder (so the PS cord wont dangle when your carrying it) are my signatures. All builders have one. =P
I remember back when I first started reading the custom stick thread that there are something called invisible hingles that mount from inside the box. I could be mistaken, but if not then I think that would help your sticks look better cosmetically.
I remember back when I first started reading the custom stick thread that there are something called invisible hingles that mount from inside the box. I could be mistaken, but if not then I think that would help your sticks look better cosmetically.
Its what the customer wanted.
mattsu
02-07-2005, 01:11 PM
you guys know of any common problems with swapping the stock x-arcade solo stick out for a sanwa. im jsut trying to make sure im not going to have any MAJOR issues before i get the sanwa
SpiffyShoes
02-07-2005, 03:43 PM
you guys know of any common problems with swapping the stock x-arcade solo stick out for a sanwa. im jsut trying to make sure im not going to have any MAJOR issues before i get the sanwa
You mean besides the fact that it won't fit without some modification to the case?
In case you didn't know Sanwa sticks either need to be top mounted or bottom mounted on about 3/8" thick wood. Since an X-Arcade controller doesn't have plexi-glass on it I assume you'd probably want to bottom mount it. So if you can you will need to either use a chisel or a dremel tool to rout out the inside of the box around the joysticks down to 3/8".
Other than that I don't see any problems. You could either pay an extra $9 to get a wireing harness so you could just plug the joystick into the quick conects that are allready on the X-Arcade or you could solder the wires to the sanwa. I recomend soldering.
blueoakleyz
02-07-2005, 05:58 PM
Will I be able to mount a Sanwa joystick AND Sanwa buttons on 3/8" plexiglass PLUS 10 mil textured vinyl
SpiffyShoes
02-07-2005, 07:39 PM
That is some thick plexi. Why 3/8" instead of 1/8"? If you want to use plexi that thick you probably will need to use the screw-type sanwa buttons and they will have to mount directly to the plexi and not on the wood. You would probably want to top mount the joystick. I'd suggest just going with 1/8" thick plexi though. It would make mounting the buttons much easier.
freeway4885
02-07-2005, 08:13 PM
this is a question that has been asked many times but here goes. for sanwa buttons, a 1 3/16 size bore is good enough for sanwas if you open the holes up a bit more right?
this is a question that has been asked many times but here goes. for sanwa buttons, a 1 3/16 size bore is good enough for sanwas if you open the holes up a bit more right?
someone told me they had a 30mm drill bit
freeway4885
02-07-2005, 11:50 PM
someone told me they had a 30mm drill bitthats what it could be, but thats metric, which is pretty hard to find over here in hardware stores.
1 3\16 is the regular happ size
freeway4885
02-08-2005, 12:04 AM
1 3\16 is the regular happ sizeyea, but because its kind of hard to find something to fit the exact size for sanwas, ive heard people say they use 1 3/16 for the hole, then open it up by sanding it. i was trying to see if that was the closest size i could use.
Toodles
02-08-2005, 12:55 AM
From Excellentcom.net CSR:
"(JLHS-8Y and JLHS-8YT) - we just have another enquiry from other customer, my supplier told me that this product stop to produce. "
Sanwa's site doesn't show a price, and doesn't allow to add them to orders. Can anyone confirm that Sanwa's stopped making the flash sticks?
Tha-Darkside
02-08-2005, 01:41 AM
From Excellentcom.net CSR:
"(JLHS-8Y and JLHS-8YT) - we just have another enquiry from other customer, my supplier told me that this product stop to produce. "
Sanwa's site doesn't show a price, and doesn't allow to add them to orders. Can anyone confirm that Sanwa's stopped making the flash sticks?
As far as I know, sanwa stopped making flash sticks awhile back. They've been "discontinued" on their site for quite some time now, a shame because they're very nice joysticks.
SpiffyShoes
02-08-2005, 09:51 AM
this is a question that has been asked many times but here goes. for sanwa buttons, a 1 3/16 size bore is good enough for sanwas if you open the holes up a bit more right?
1-3/16" = 30mm = correct size for sanwa buttons
1-1/8" = size for happ buttons
blueoakleyz
02-09-2005, 12:50 AM
This is going to be what my CP will look like. It'll be 15" by 10"
Can anyone direct me to a template for the standard japanese layout? (you know column 1 low, column 2 high, column 3 a lil below column 2)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v168/blueking/T5cp.jpg
Masakun
02-11-2005, 12:18 AM
With what I've gathered from reading this thread and others, for modding a Namco stick using a Sanwa JLF...
1) Replace Sanwa shaft, e-ring, and actuator (plus the plastic bit that looks like a washer that comes loose with the actuator) with the Namco stick shaft, e-ring, actuator, the plastic bit that looks like a washer, and shaft (although it seems like cutting the Sanwa actuator would be a better choice, as the shape is ever so slightly different).
2) Keep the Sanwa spring inside the JLF, as in, don't replace it w/ the one from the Namco stick.
3) Use a 5 pin connector to connect the JLF to the wires that go to the microswitches on the Namco stick (after desoldering the microswitches from their sticks)
4) Modify the JLF so that the lid for the Namco stick fits - someone said that the connector on the very bottom needs to be sanded down, but it seems like both the one on the bottom and the sides, along with the bits protruding from the octagonal or square restrictor, should be sanded down. This is the part I'm still trying to figure out
5) Remove the restrictor and the board w/ the microswitches on it, and and screw on the joystick to the Namco stick with shorter screws (I read that 20mm screws worked well).
The thing is, I tried using the Namco stick actuator with the Namco shaft and the microswitches didn't click properly. I was wondering if people used the Namco actuator or modified their Sanwa ones.
Thanks.
SoulCaliFreak
02-13-2005, 10:02 AM
Does anyone have a diagram as to where each pin leads to? My pins are pointed towards my buttons underneath. I know Spiffy said one of them was the ground, but can't remember where I saw it and which one he said.
Besides that, I'd still need to know which pin corresponds with wich side. I'm wiring up a modded SC2 Hori right now.
The Mullah
02-13-2005, 04:52 PM
i have a few questions, could someone post a picture of one of their custom sticks that uses t moulding?
also, i'm about to start working on my box. a few people mention routing out a few mm from the top so i can put mounting plates for the stick and buttons, i dont even know what a router tool looks like, i've done searchs on google and i came up with a few varients, could someone post a picture of the tool i'm after?
also, how do i go about making the section i route level? i obviously want my plate to sit flat in the wood
edit: someone please help :sad:
blueoakleyz
02-16-2005, 12:12 AM
hey everyone I made a wiring guide
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v168/blueking/SANWAwiringguide.jpg
blueoakleyz
02-16-2005, 12:26 AM
does anyone have pictures of BLUE sanwa sticks/buttons? On himura games they look sorta light light blue but i'd rather have a medium blue
armad1ll0
02-16-2005, 01:25 AM
They are light blue.
The Mullah
02-16-2005, 03:28 AM
ok well perhaps someone could explain to me how to route by hand? is it just a question of using a chisel?
looking online i cant find a router for below 200 pounds, that's too expensive for me, and i'm no where near my woodshop so i can't use the proper tools :-(
oh and thanks for the wiring guide, i'll be using that shortly, thanks!
SoulCaliFreak
02-16-2005, 06:50 PM
Thanks a lot blueoakleys, that helps a lot. I got it from another guy and he told me the other one was the ground, or maybe he was looking from the pin side instead of from the stick side. Thanks again man.
blueoakleyz
02-16-2005, 07:31 PM
No problem I had to do it for myself anyway..
If you're referring to the wiring guide someone wrote on like page 7 he was looking at the tan side (bottom of the joystick) and the pins pointing down i think, and it was accurate except up and down were reversed.. on mine it's looking down upon the top of the joystick (Well with the joystick part removed) on to the green side of the pcb with the pins pointing up cuz thats how it was in the Tekken 5 machine lol
SoulCaliFreak
02-17-2005, 10:54 AM
Well, so far so good. I grounded everything and tested out the start button, it worked. Now I'll just wire up the buttons and the directionals and see how it turns out. STill trying to figure out how to anchor the pcb in there, probably with some wire. I'll need to figure out how to anchor the chord going out of the box tho.
Can't wait to play on my first modded stick, Now I can mod one of my customs as well.
blueoakleyz
02-19-2005, 05:49 PM
How big of a difference does a Sanwa flash stick make over a regular Sanwa?
SpiffyShoes
02-20-2005, 12:18 PM
It doesn't really make any vast improvements as far as reaction or speed. It just makes the joystick feel allot smoother and quiter. Most of the people I know that bought a regular one for themselves and then try out my flash sticks end up wishing they had just spent the extra money to get the flash stick.
It doesn't really make any vast improvements as far as reaction or speed. It just makes the joystick feel allot smoother and quiter. Most of the people I know that bought a regular one for themselves and then try out my flash sticks end up wishing they had just spent the extra money to get the flash stick.
Really? With me, its the opposite. The 3D crowd here stands by the microswitch Sanwa and despise the Flash one. Some of the 2D players differ. Some like the flash, some dont.
blueoakleyz
02-20-2005, 02:25 PM
Oh ok good I like the clicking and feel of a square gate
buttasuperb
02-21-2005, 09:23 AM
When I get the Tekken 5 stick I want to go from a square gate to an octagon one. Is this what I need to get?
http://www.himuragames.com/images/gty_01.jpg
Tha-Darkside
02-21-2005, 01:23 PM
When I get the Tekken 5 stick I want to go from a square gate to an octagon one. Is this what I need to get?
http://www.himuragames.com/images/gty_01.jpg
If the Tekken 5 joystick is an actual sanwa jlf like most are predicting...then yes.
FakeShakes
02-22-2005, 11:00 AM
Sorry if this has been posted before... but does anyone know the distance between the screw points in the jlf sticks?
I bought a generic stick (fighter's choice) and I'm planning to replace them with sanwa parts (i believe the buttons will fit - with a little cutting of plastic), but the stick that comes with this thing is assembled weird (its not even using microswitches... how yucky). I could post some pics later.
SiLLiEMutAfuKA
02-22-2005, 07:22 PM
NEED HELP!
How do I remove/switch the balltop off a HRAP? I have a pink one and I want to switch it out. Help would be highly appreciated, thanks.
DarkChylde
02-22-2005, 08:26 PM
You'll have to open it and use a screwdriver to keep the shaft from spinning and just twist it off.
SiLLiEMutAfuKA
02-22-2005, 09:17 PM
You'll have to open it and use a screwdriver to keep the shaft from spinning and just twist it off.
Gah it was that damn simple, I was thinking about it for a long time, eh I'm a dumbass.
Thanks.
:karate:
tigerhobs
02-24-2005, 11:12 PM
Has anyone ever sanwa-modded a Hori Fighting Stick 2? Just curious. My friend busted mine, so now I have a box and 2 PCB's to work from. If 60 bucks ever popps up, modding this would be a nice side project. Any pictures/advice for getting the stick to stay firm in there would be great.
Thnx in advance.
EDIT: Will sanwa pop-in buttons work, or will screw in buttons be better for this?
drzero7
02-25-2005, 04:22 PM
Dang it. I'm hearing the T5 stick is a Hori, and a squaregate. I personally hate squaregate. So might as well change it to Sanwa directional stick while I change the squaregate thingy into Octagonal if I'm still gunna buy this.
So,
http://www.himuragames.com/store_joysticks.php
If I buy "JLF-TP-8Y", I can change the T5 Hori into Sanwa right? And does this JLF-TP-8Y a squaregate or octagonal? (cause if it's squaregate, I'll need to buy the octagonal upgrade one along with it.)
DarkChylde
02-25-2005, 07:08 PM
If I'm not mistaken, then the T5 stick does use a Sanwa stick, in which case all you need to buy is the octagonal restrictor. The buttons on the other hand, are Hori and feel a little bit "stiffer" and maybe or may not need replacing depending on your tastes.
Gaijinblaze
02-25-2005, 07:12 PM
^ Been confirmed that it's a Hori in there, not Sanwa.
Anyhow, I remember reading (might've been this thread) that a certain part of a Sanwa stick performs better when lubricated. Is that true or am I just imagining posts that were never made?
SiLLiEMutAfuKA
02-25-2005, 10:27 PM
^ Been confirmed that it's a Hori in there, not Sanwa.
Anyhow, I remember reading (might've been this thread) that a certain part of a Sanwa stick performs better when lubricated. Is that true or am I just imagining posts that were never made?
It's not a Sanwa stick that performs better when lubricated..
FakeShakes
02-25-2005, 11:07 PM
can anyone please (please) whip out a ruler and measure the distance between the screw holes on the sanwa stick?
TheRealNeoGeo
02-27-2005, 02:37 AM
FakeShake
I made a pic for you, hope these are the holes you are talking about :). Measured the mountingplate also.
http://www.arkadesticks.com/sanwasticken.GIF
FakeShakes
02-27-2005, 07:04 PM
FakeShake
I made a pic for you, hope these are the holes you are talking about :). Measured the mountingplate also.
http://www.arkadesticks.com/sanwasticken.GIF
Holy sh!t, I love you!
Man, that helps tons... thanks bro.
SoulCaliFreak
02-28-2005, 12:43 AM
Alright, I had to make an adjustment to my Hori mod. I did the spiffy shoes mounting method, I think. Shorter screws mounting the stick under the pcb and gate. Still, the screws are sticking up just high enough to push into the microswitches, so the gate isn't completely tight on there. It's on tight enough that it shouldn't come off, but definitely on there exactly the way it should be.
I cut the original screws for the Hori to fit in there, but what would be the length and diameter I'd need to buy so that it wouldn't take any cutting of those originals? I'm not sure how precise I can always be with my cuts of those screws.
Also, do I just need to file down where the screw goes in to let the microswitches sit more flush? I think the Hori will be fine, it's my first job, but should be fine.
One more question for whoever's listening. What's the easiest way to get that C Clip out so I can switch the shafts? I'm going to mod a Namco next. Also, do the prongs on sanwa screw in buttons fit in the Namco stick okay, or will I have to bend them outward to fit? I want to go with white buttons and stick. Thanks again.
blueoakleyz
02-28-2005, 02:45 AM
i just use the nails on my thumbs and press outwards
megaultrasuper
03-04-2005, 08:17 AM
Not sure if I should post this here or the custom arcade sticks thread, but this seems more on topic.
Anyway, I'm building my own custom joystick from scratch and I have a few questions.
1. I want the stick to be as accurate to the layout of a japanese Street Fighter machine as possible. Is there any place I can find a printable layout for japanese arcade controls?
2. I am going to have my university machine shop machine a solid panel of aluminum or steel that is 1/4" thick with the holes already drilled into it. I will then mount this in a wood casing. Is this a good route?
3. Should I order a mounting bracket with this approach?
Thanks
Masahiko
03-04-2005, 11:39 AM
I'm wondering if anyone could tell me what the easiest joystick that's readily available in North America is to mod with all Sanwa parts (stick and buttons)?
I've been considering building one from scratch, but I think I would be quite limited by the tools I have and I'm not sure where I could get access to soldering equipment to connect wires to the pcb.
So, I figured that left me with the choice of getting a relatively inexpensive, but good, case and putting the parts it it that I want, or just importing an RAP -- which is quite pricey due to shipping.
I'd greatly appreciate any help
DarkChylde
03-04-2005, 01:19 PM
2. I am going to have my university machine shop machine a solid panel of aluminum or steel that is 1/4" thick with the holes already drilled into it. I will then mount this in a wood casing. Is this a good route?
3. Should I order a mounting bracket with this approach?
2) Yeah, that sounds good, and it kinda actually how Sanwa parts are supposed to be mounted.
3) No, a mounting bracket is not needed.
I'm wondering if anyone could tell me what the easiest joystick that's readily available in North America is to mod with all Sanwa parts (stick and buttons)?
I've been considering building one from scratch, but I think I would be quite limited by the tools I have and I'm not sure where I could get access to soldering equipment to connect wires to the pcb.
So, I figured that left me with the choice of getting a relatively inexpensive, but good, case and putting the parts it it that I want, or just importing an RAP -- which is quite pricey due to shipping.
Get a T5 Hori and swap that stuff out. Not sure if the microswitches are soldered or not though. But soldering tools are relatively cheap at Radio Shack and isn't as hard as it sounds.
Masahiko
03-04-2005, 05:27 PM
Get a T5 Hori and swap that stuff out. Not sure if the microswitches are soldered or not though. But soldering tools are relatively cheap at Radio Shack and isn't as hard as it sounds.
I don't know man. The T5 Hori is a mess inside and I've never soldered anything before. I'd rather spend the same amount of money on a RAP or something that's much easier to replace stuff in.
Getting the T5 bundle and then all the Sanwa parts would make that route quite expensive.
I'm starting to think building something isn't the way to go for me as I just don't have access to the tools to really make what I want. While that's probably the cheapest route, the RAP isn't bad either. Too bad about the shipping or it'd be a much easier choice...
SoulCaliFreak
03-04-2005, 10:28 PM
I just did my first mod, it wasn't as hard as I thought once I got it going. Plus it makes the stick a little more special since I was the one who upgraded it.
The iron, solder, wire, pcb, buttons and stick are worth it to make it a better stick. STill, I'm hoping I can find a used one at gamestop sometime later.
Kayin
03-05-2005, 04:47 PM
I just ordered a Hori SC2 stick. Possible to Sanwa mod one of these things? If so how would one go about doing it?
Also, would it be possible to keep the stock microswitches if I do mod it?
megaultrasuper
03-06-2005, 05:04 PM
Change of plan, I am going to use 1/4" plexiglass instead of metal, with another plexi underneath for support with holes drilled for parts to go through and be be accessible.
Does anyone know the exact size the hole for the joystick needs to be?
yoooooon
03-07-2005, 05:58 PM
It's not a Sanwa stick that performs better when lubricated..
actually, i think that the guide piece on the shaft is really lubricated. thats how my sanwas came, with a thick lube all over one piece.
SoulCaliFreak
03-07-2005, 06:09 PM
I just ordered a Hori SC2 stick. Possible to Sanwa mod one of these things? If so how would one go about doing it?
Also, would it be possible to keep the stock microswitches if I do mod it?
Here's evidince from mine, and one of the experts here, Armad:
http://www.hooligansofthenight.com/modules/PNphpBB2/files/my-1st-mod.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/ebay/SC2_yellow.jpg
Kayin
03-07-2005, 06:23 PM
Here's evidince from mine, and one of the experts here, Armad:
http://www.hooligansofthenight.com/modules/PNphpBB2/files/my-1st-mod.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/ebay/SC2_yellow.jpg
Looks good, but any advice on modding one? I don't wanna fuck this up. O_o;;
SoulCaliFreak
03-08-2005, 06:19 PM
Looks good, but any advice on modding one? I don't wanna fuck this up. O_o;;
Well, you'll need to order your parts from himura games of course. Just the JLF stick, not the one with the mounting plate. You'll need to desolder the board if you want to go my way, but Armad did it without taking the board off. I had to cuz something made it stop working.
Desoldering braids are pretty cheap at Radio shack, as is wire, solder, and soldering irons. Use a low wattage soldering iron. You'll see how to use the braid and iron together to desolder the board and then you'll be able to get the buttons out. The stick comes off easy too, just unscrew.
When putting in the Sanwa stick, you'll have to either cut off the two flanges on the sides of the JLF stick so it fits in the square recepticle, or cut off some of the square recepticle. In hindsight, I should've just cut the flanges off.
You'll have to take apart the JLF stick too, that way you'll see where the stick can screw in. You may have to file down those posts to get it on, but the holes will still be there to screw into. You'll have to file down the top of where the screw goes in so your microswitches will sit flush when you put them back in.
Read some more stuff on mod everything and sanwa mods in the later pages and you should find some good stuff to help.
skisonic
03-08-2005, 07:28 PM
is there a tutorial like the T5 stick one for the yellow button namco stick?
if i want to install a sanwa stick into my yellow button namco stick, do i have to do any additional filing/cutting/melting, or can i just swap and solder? I've been looking explicitiy for this info but cant find it.
i heard something about taking out the shaft...and replacing it with the namco shaft. I removed the sanwa shaft but I don't want to go any further before I know exactly what to do. TIA.
Lei Mana
03-09-2005, 12:01 AM
could i get a link to the t5 stick modding tutorial?
Tritone
03-09-2005, 02:18 AM
Here you go. (http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84694)
Chang
03-09-2005, 08:31 AM
I've got a noobish question. It's probably been asked before, but I had some trouble weeding my way through all the search results for anything relevant.
Can you use quick disconnects on Sanwa buttons? As opposed to soldering, that is.
Looking at some of the pictures I've seen, it looks like the prongs are similar to those on the stock buttons in the SF Anniversary stick. So I was thinking maybe it's possible to use QDs like Nuby did.
DarkChylde
03-09-2005, 09:06 AM
I think the prongs on the Sanwas are smaller so you would have to solder.
Chang
03-09-2005, 09:12 AM
How small are the prongs on Sanwa buttons? The Nuby SF stock button prongs are 2.5mm.
skisonic
03-09-2005, 10:11 AM
I ordered these black seimitsu's because they were the only black screw-ins, but I've noticed now that the prongs are at an angle rather than straight, as you can see here (http://www.himuragames.com/images/buttons_scr_sei_30_04.jpg).
I was planning on modding my grey and yellow namco, but does it seam feasible to fit this on the pcb or directly onto any pcb?
SpiffyShoes
03-09-2005, 10:18 AM
is there a tutorial like the T5 stick one for the yellow button namco stick?
if i want to install a sanwa stick into my yellow button namco stick, do i have to do any additional filing/cutting/melting, or can i just swap and solder? I've been looking explicitiy for this info but cant find it.
i heard something about taking out the shaft...and replacing it with the namco shaft. I removed the sanwa shaft but I don't want to go any further before I know exactly what to do. TIA.
Pictures say a thousand words. Most of the info you just asked for is in this thread some where but you may have to get it from looking at pictures of ones people have done. Yes you will need to file some stuff down on the Sanwa joystick and widen some holes etc;. It should all be pretty obvious as to what needs to be done. Also it is pretty similar to the way SoulCaliFreak just described on how to mod his SC2 stick.
Here are some pictures of mine.
http://himuragames.suddenlaunch3.com/index.cgi?board=playerproj&action=display&num=1102918265
skisonic
03-09-2005, 01:45 PM
its really hard to see details in those pictures, do the black plastic base only have 3 prongs coming out of it?
SpiffyShoes
03-09-2005, 07:07 PM
There are 4 and they are all there.
Maybe ShinJN's pictures of his mod would be easier to see.
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69679&highlight=Namco
SoulCaliFreak
03-09-2005, 07:57 PM
Man, I just ordered my parts to mod a namco. What's the easiest way to get that C-clip off the namco shaft so I can swap them. Otherwise it won't fit, correct? I know Con came up with a way to make an unmodded Sanwa stick fit in, but that's his little secret.
My alternative is just to throw a dual shock pcb in there with the stock parts and make it work again. Then get a hold of another Hori case, and put the parts I ordered in there since the stick will fit in w/o swapping the shaft.
Seriously tho, I'd like to put the new parts in the namco if I could just get an easy way to get those clips out.
skisonic
03-09-2005, 08:12 PM
i took my namco stick apart, if the c clip is the uh...little clip that looks like a c (OK WHAT'S AN E-RING NOTHING LOOKS LIKE AN E), theres some space, two little grooves on it. I wedged my flathead into the gap in the clip and it pulled right off.
Duelist
03-13-2005, 09:44 PM
Finally finished my joystick (Hell yeah!). :clap:
Just wanted to give a big thank you to everyone on this thread who have helped me when I had inquiries (SpiffyShoes in particular).
If anyone wants me to post a couple of pics of my joystick (White sanwa buttons and white sanwa JLF stick), just ask. It's not much of a looker though, didn't bother painting it. :encore:
Shoutout to Rod (Himura) for the parts. You rock.
Duelist
SoulCaliFreak
03-13-2005, 09:54 PM
Well, I switched out the shafts of the Namco and the Sanwa, but it wouldn't work right. The stick wouldn't go back to nuetral w/o me putting it back in nuetral position so it kept the microswitch pushed down. I tried switching springs, but that didn't work.
Not sure what parts of the sanwa I'm supposed to keep, and which ones from the Namco I'm supposed to use. Man I wish it would just fit in the case. I keep wanting to make a new bottom for it to give it more room, but we'll see.
unicron0000
03-14-2005, 06:14 PM
hey guys I mentioned this in another thread on here, here are some pics I took:
http://home.houston.rr.com/lcastles/misc
here's the himura games thread
http://himuragames.suddenlaunch3.com/index.cgi?board=playerproj&action=display&num=1093759019&start=0
DarkChylde
03-15-2005, 12:22 AM
How do you change out the restictor plate? I can't seem to take out the square restrictor.
hey guys I mentioned this in another thread on here, here are some pics I took:
http://home.houston.rr.com/lcastles/misc
here's the himura games thread
http://himuragames.suddenlaunch3.com/index.cgi?board=playerproj&action=display&num=1093759019&start=0
Sloppy work..
unicron0000
03-15-2005, 01:08 AM
not as sloppy as your attitude, bitch.
edit:
in reply to Dark Chyld:
You push in the 4 triangular plastic hooks and then it comes off.
DarkChylde
03-15-2005, 09:22 AM
Oops, maybe I wasn't being clear enuff, it's the smaller circular piece inside the restrictor (actuator?) the square one is clear while the octagonal one is yellow.
SoulCaliFreak
03-15-2005, 10:28 AM
I'm not sure how you change those out. I took a quick look the other day and there might be something you push to get it out. Why don't you just order the whole thing from Rod. You get the plate, with the gate already inside.
SpiffyShoes
03-15-2005, 11:43 AM
You just rotate it. You have to Push it in and then you can rotate it. That is how you switch it from 4 way and 8 way and for taking it off.
Lei Mana
03-15-2005, 02:34 PM
hmmm.....modding the t5 stick seems like quite a bit of work...maybe someone here could do the mod for me in excange for sexua...i mean money....hit me up on PM if anyone is interested
UrIeNaToR
03-15-2005, 04:46 PM
con..i know I talked to you earlier bout modding a t5 stick...how much again for all sanwa parts? thanx again!
SoulCaliFreak
03-15-2005, 06:45 PM
While you're at it Con, why don't you PM me how to fit that Sanwa JLF unmodded into a Namco case ;)
Will I get an answer from someone on my shaft question on the previous page? Later y'all.
Vigorous
03-15-2005, 07:46 PM
How easy it to fit a Sanwa stick into my Hori Fighting Stick?
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/Hori_Front.JPG
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/Hori_Inside.JPG (http://www.theimagehosting.com)
Carefree
03-18-2005, 04:48 PM
Hey, I'm new to all this, so I'm trying to mod a fighting hori stick 2. I already got the sanwa buttons and stick in, now I just need help with the soddering. Here are some pics, what I need to know is where the ground wires need to go, like the one that came with the sanwa stick. and how to wire the buttons. thanks in advance
http://hosted.tribalwar.com/tekno/temp/Picture%20001.jpg
http://hosted.tribalwar.com/tekno/temp/Picture%20002.jpg
http://hosted.tribalwar.com/tekno/temp/Picture%20003.jpg
Dreaded Fist
03-18-2005, 10:18 PM
Damn! is that really a motor inside your stick, vig?
zapatistab
03-21-2005, 01:02 PM
Hey, I'm new to all this, so I'm trying to mod a fighting hori stick 2. I already got the sanwa buttons and stick in, now I just need help with the soddering. Here are some pics, what I need to know is where the ground wires need to go, like the one that came with the sanwa stick. and how to wire the buttons. thanks in advance
http://hosted.tribalwar.com/tekno/temp/Picture%20001.jpg
http://hosted.tribalwar.com/tekno/temp/Picture%20002.jpg
http://hosted.tribalwar.com/tekno/temp/Picture%20003.jpg
If you search this thread, you can find the joystick configuration. The Joystick wires as far as UP, Down, Left, and Right, you can solder directly to the PCB. The ground wires need to be daisy chained. Here is an idea and or example, how to wire your buttons. The only difference is the U.S. microswitch has three connectors. As far as the Sanwa buttons connectors, it doesn't matter which one you use for ground.
http://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/madcatz2.htm
freeway4885
03-22-2005, 01:18 PM
just had a quick question. what do you guys use to cut lexan? also, where can I find something to cut lexan? some people have told me to get a glass cutter, but havent seen any around my area and also dont know what they look like. just wondering because i was going to build a sanwa stick soon and mount my buttons on the lexan.
KYJellyDonut
03-22-2005, 10:08 PM
A few questions....
How many different Sanwa sticks are there?
Are they all top mounted? I've noticed that one doesn't come with a mounting plate...thats bottom mounted?
Also, which stick is the one with the extra long shaft, I presume its for bottom mounting?
Where do you guys pikc up your sanwa parts? Sanwa's site is all japanese and unfortuantely I can't read it...any recommendations?
Thanks in advance.
DarkChylde
03-22-2005, 10:57 PM
There are 3 Sanwa sticks to my knowledge:
1)JLF-TP-8Y - Standard Sanwa stick / JLF-TP-8YT Same stick with mounting plate
2)Sanwa Flash - The optical Sanwa stick
3) Whatever is in the original green HRAP - the Virtual Fighter Sanwa stick
All Sanwa stuff was meant to be mounted in a Japanese cabinet which has a metal plate. But for custom stick making it's easier to deal with wood therefore you have to either route out the wood to the appropriate depth, or use a mounting plate to mount the joystick.
www.himuragames.com
armad1ll0
03-22-2005, 11:24 PM
actually there are three bodies of Sanwas that I've seen. The RAP stick had a normal plated JLF. I don't have the serial number for the older one but it looks like a Seimitsu.
The two newer ones are the JLF and the JLW based sticks. From there there are different variants of these main bodies and different smaller options aside from those main ones. Mounting plates, handles, shafts, PCB styles etc...
If you are really interested you should just look on their site.
http://www.sanwa-d.co.jp/p_joy-stick.htm
KYJellyDonut
03-23-2005, 06:10 AM
So if I was to purchase the regular JLF-TP-8Y from himura games....how would I mount it without the plate?
If it had a plate, i'd have to route out an edged hole through the top of my stick and use mount the plate on top recessed and then cover it with the art and plexi....But thats a pain in the ass ;)
I haven't done much stick building, but I think I could build a happ with my eyes closed, so I wanna give Sanwas a try.
KY
megaultrasuper
03-23-2005, 02:10 PM
Quick question:
Can you take the mounting plate off of a JLF-TP-8YT and use it just like a regular JLF-TP-8Y?
x_tremer
03-23-2005, 04:21 PM
not as sloppy as your attitude, bitch.
edit:
in reply to Dark Chyld:
You push in the 4 triangular plastic hooks and then it comes off.
actually.. it was kinda sloppy, the wires were all messy and you used a ghetto project box.
DarkChylde
03-23-2005, 08:38 PM
Quick question:
Can you take the mounting plate off of a JLF-TP-8YT and use it just like a regular JLF-TP-8Y?
Yes, the sticks themselves are actually the same.
Urzakor
03-25-2005, 02:34 AM
doesn't anyone have any information on what'd it be like if I made a custom stick with the top being one sheet of metal? would it be flimsy at all? would I be able to use screw on buttons? any comments on how it would look - I plan on adding artwork, but which paper would "hide" the metal the best? the rest of the box owuld be wood, but since I'm going sanwa, I figured the sheet metal top would be easier than top mounting onto would cuz Id need tools that I don't have.
lastly, any tips for doing this?
454Casull
03-27-2005, 08:14 PM
Just need something cleared up - with a mounting plate, you don't need to route out the excessive wood to top mount a Sanwa joystick?
EDIT: I guess you still have to.
thaBadGuy
03-28-2005, 10:26 AM
http://www.modeverything.com/
this page has info and pics on how to top mount a stick
P.S
How do you mount a sanwa stick in metal. I want the screws to be flat how do i do that
anybody know or have pics thanks
Toodles
03-28-2005, 11:09 PM
http://www.modeverything.com/
this page has info and pics on how to top mount a stick
P.S
How do you mount a sanwa stick in metal. I want the screws to be flat how do i do that
anybody know or have pics thanksIf you want to mount the stick without any bolt heads showing, you'll have to weld a mounting bracket underneath, and thread some holes for a bolt to screw into. Here's a pic of the bracket on a Tekken 5 stick, look around for a pic of the one on a real HRAP; its much nicer.
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/clockworkorange/hori/hori5.jpg
Toodles
03-28-2005, 11:21 PM
I modded my Namco stick on Friday, and it look and feels awesome. I did find out though that instead of using the original short shaft from the Namco, that you can use a shaft from another Hori stick (in this case a Tekken 5 stick) instead, which has the bottom half the exact same length as a Namco stick, and the top half the exact same length as a Sanwa stick. True sanwa length handle but still in the compact Namco case.
However, I'm running into a very annoying problem with the actuator and switches. With the original Namco actuator, everything felt nice, except the stick would have a tedency to get caught pressing 'up' when in neutral. Opened it back up and took a look at everything. It seems that when the stick returns to the neutral, the actuator is barely touching the red part of the microswitch. The red part 'pops' out like it should, but needs to move a bare fraction of a millimeter more before the internal spring clicks back to normal. I compared the Namco actuator with the Sanwa actuator, saw the wide portion of the Namco was a bit wider than the Sanwa. So I trimmed down the thin part of the Sanwa actuator so it was exactly the same hight as the Namco actuator, and swapped them.
The sticky 'up' problem was fixed. Now I'm running into a new problem with corners. In order to register a corner, it has to be EXACT. Im think the space for it to be a diagonal feels like about 15 degrees. Most noticable with jumping, when diagonal jumping turns into a straight up jump about 1/4 of the time. Also a problem for dragon punches and supers; some qcfx2 moves end up showing d, d/f, f, d, f in training mode.
If anyone whos dealt with sanwa modded namcos has any recommendations to relieve either of these problems, please let know.
True_Tech
03-29-2005, 12:38 AM
couple questions do i need a certain size quick disconnect to fit on the sanwa buttons, and which ps2 pcb has the biggest soldering areas, sorry if these have been asked but quick disconnect came up with no matches on the search and 24 pages is to much to read for one question
ParryPerson
03-29-2005, 08:15 AM
You really don't want a PS2 PCB, I don't think those can be hacked, your looking for a PS1 dual shock or a 3rd party maker of PS1 pads, the 3rd party pads almost always have huge points to solder to, but on alot of the PS1 dual shocks, the points aren't THAT small. Some are easier then others.
In the Custom Stick thread, rotendo has a dead link that says what quick disconnects fit american joysticks, but I don't know if it's the same for the Sanwas.
EDIT: If you go out buying a Dual Shock, try for an A series, you don't even have to solder those boys, if their the right A series, look for a see thru one, and see if you can see a white strip in the upper right corner. All you do is plug in wire to the ribbon terminal thats already on the PCB, and then run the wires to the stick and buttons. Easyville. Check out "SpiffyShoes Solderless hack" or something like that, in this forum.
SpiffyShoes A-Series solderless hack guide.
http://home.comcast.net/~spiffyshoes/DualShockHack/
If you see an A-Series that has a white bar on the upper right, but it looks like it has little solder points on it, that one will work to.
megaultrasuper
03-29-2005, 10:06 AM
What are some recommendations on mounting a sanwa stick?
I'm currently mounting into plexiglass, but it seems I'm going to need to mount carriage bolts to hold it in. I would like a mount where I have a completely smooth area around the stick.
It seems 1/4 inch pleixglass actually a little thick if I am correct in assuming the mounting plate is the correct thickness for a proper mount.
Toodles
03-29-2005, 03:56 PM
A note for those thinking of modding a Tekken 5 stick: Do NOT get screw in Sanwa buttons, at least for the 30mm buttons. The button holes are just too close together to work, unless you want to shave down the outside of almost all of the orange rings.
Any advice on my Namco problem above would be appreciated.
A note for those thinking of modding a Tekken 5 stick: Do NOT get screw in Sanwa buttons, at least for the 30mm buttons. The button holes are just too close together to work, unless you want to shave down the outside of almost all of the orange rings.
Actually, on one of my T5 stick mods, (the first one) I used screw-in buttons. Although they all fit, it was a pain in the ass to screw in the last two. I didnt shave the orange ring nuts.
mastermind
03-29-2005, 09:15 PM
A note for those thinking of modding a Tekken 5 stick: Do NOT get screw in Sanwa buttons, at least for the 30mm buttons. The button holes are just too close together to work, unless you want to shave down the outside of almost all of the orange rings.
...but it's possible, right? Roadblocks are NOTHING. :tup:
Toodles
03-29-2005, 09:48 PM
Yes, its possible. My thumbs are killing me right now. The four farthest from the stick are easy, then the last four get progressively harder, until I had to shake a bit off of two rings toget the last button in flat.
Jesus Tap-Dancing Christ, I wish I had gotten snap-ins though. If the snap in 24mm's I got are any indication, they are in NO risk of moving around once installed.
True_Tech
03-29-2005, 11:27 PM
yo does the sanwa with the mounting plate come with the screws and all that shit or do i gotta pull out the draw o' crap i get paid on friday so i wanna know everything before i order
Dreaded Fist
03-29-2005, 11:33 PM
You can overlap the screwin buttons in order for them to work. They're like gears almost, with a ring on one end. So some of them will have to be kinda floating, not touching the surface of the control panel.
Truetech: sanwa with mounting plate doesn't come with screws. The only screws it has are the ones that mount the stick to the mounting plate. To mount the palte to your box you'll need to get your own screws. Ace hardwares sell screws individually.
True_Tech
03-30-2005, 09:30 PM
k another question do i have to solder the directions to the stick or can i use the 5 pin connecter i'm looking at my stick and i notice he soldered it to directly to the stick i'm hoping i can just use the 5 pin connecter to save me some soldering, and if i can how would i do it?
Toodles
03-30-2005, 09:59 PM
k another question do i have to solder the directions to the stick or can i use the 5 pin connecter i'm looking at my stick and i notice he soldered it to directly to the stick i'm hoping i can just use the 5 pin connecter to save me some soldering, and if i can how would i do it?
Sure, you can use the 5 pin connector instead of soldering straight to the sanwa pcb with the switches.
How would you do it? I don't know what you mean. Whatever you would have soldered to the pcb, you would attach to the wires. The black wire is the common ground, and which color is which direction is based on how you orient the pcb, so I cant tell you. If youre connecting wire to wire, you twist and solder them together, or splice them, however you want. Just make sure to cover any exposed wire with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing so you dont run risk of anything shorting.
True_Tech
03-30-2005, 10:02 PM
i meant like is each pin a certain direction or whatever say the pins are facing me from left to right what pin is which left,up,right,down,ground like that
k the black wire being the common ground i made green down yellow left orange up and red right and just hooked up to the stick everything should be all good right? i'm judging from this pic http://www.himuragames.com/images/wire_harness_01.jpg i just gotta make sure i daisy chain the ground to the black wire correct?
Another T5 stick mod i did. Sorry for the pics being dark. Even though i used the flash, it didnt come out cause the batteries were low. Ill take more pics when i get new batteries.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mode879/detail?.dir=/6d43&.dnm=95b0.jpg&.src=ph
True_Tech
03-31-2005, 10:19 AM
i think i can make out the buttons they look pink
Toodles
03-31-2005, 12:18 PM
My T5 stick mod, 'Bone Daddy', for posterity: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/toodlesdc/my_photos
T-Rez
03-31-2005, 02:45 PM
I've searched through this thread and could'nt find out if anyone has mounted a Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y in a Sammy SvC Chaos stick. Would this be possible without having to drill any holes? Would the octoganal restrictor plate that it comes with fit on a Sanwa? I was also wondering where I can find Sanwa Flash sticks. I looked at the Himura amusements website and could'nt find any. How much would they go for if I found one?
TooHectic
03-31-2005, 02:55 PM
I think someone asked a question about this earlier, but didn't get a direct response.
Anyway, what size quick disconnects do you need for Sanwa buttons? They are definately smaller than the traditional 3/16" (0.187) ones like Happ uses. I need to pick some up before my buttons come in.
Edit: and where can you find them? I don't think Radio Shack carries anything smaller than 0.187"
TooHectic
03-31-2005, 03:56 PM
Answering my own question in case other people are curious....
In another thread, Toodles said the terminals were around 3mm. The only standard size available around that is 2.79mm or 0.110". So I'm assuming that's the size you should look for.
thaBadGuy
03-31-2005, 11:02 PM
what size hole should i drill for a sanwa joystick
leaveal
04-01-2005, 03:17 AM
Has anyone tried mounting a Sanwa on a Hori through those holes closer to the middle? you know, the ones with those hexagonal metal things. those metal things can be removed.)there'd be no need to shave the bottom of the Sanwa base for the gate to sit flush if it works.
you will still need to widen the hexagonal holes on the top of the sanwa though. you'll need some 3/8 ot 1/4 flathead screws to hold the base onto the Namco body through those small holes. (you'll also need to make holes on the body.)
i don't know, just an idea.
True_Tech
04-01-2005, 03:27 AM
yo does it matter which prong i put the ground on the button or is a certain prong for the ground
yo does it matter which prong i put the ground on the button or is a certain prong for the ground
On sanwa no, on Happ yes
True_Tech
04-02-2005, 12:57 AM
k the black wire being the common ground if i made green down yellow left orange up and red right and just hooked up to the stick everything should be all good right? i'm judging from this pic http://www.himuragames.com/images/wire_harness_01.jpg i just gotta make sure i daisy chain the ground to the black wire correct?
k i get a answer on this one? i only told himura i want one wire harness so i can't risk fuckin it up
Toodles
04-02-2005, 06:53 AM
and which color is which direction is based on how you orient the pcb, so I cant tell you.
Or, you know, read page 2 of this thread, take a peek at the pcb, or use a multimeter to determine which pin goes to which direction.
True_Tech
04-02-2005, 09:40 AM
you know whats bad about your post is that i've actually read the you were talking about a few times and i tooooooootally forgot about it whats even worse is that he was answering a question for a friend of mine lol :confused:
leaveal
04-02-2005, 10:20 AM
i tried that Sanwa mount technique. it works. :D
454Casull
04-02-2005, 02:14 PM
What is the maximum thickness allowable for the Sanwa snap-in buttons?
Gaijinblaze
04-02-2005, 02:23 PM
I would like to know the exact thing, but for the screw-ins. I know it's been covered in the thread already (approx. 1/4"?), but I'd like to have a really accurate measurement, preferably down to a 16th or 32nd of an inch. Sorry for being so picky.
Thank you.
Edit: On second thought, I would also like to know the distance from the bottom of the bezel (plastic ring around the plunger) to the tip of the metal prongs on the momentary contact button thingy, to give an idea of how much interior clearance a box would need.
454Casull
04-04-2005, 06:43 PM
Somebody suggested shortening the clips on the snap-in buttons so that the buttons can snap into thicker material. Possible?
Junkyard God
04-05-2005, 05:54 PM
did a search in the thread and came up blank, so thought i'd ask:
what size carriage bolt would you need if you were bottom mounting a sanwa JLF on metal (which means, without the wood mounting plate)?
I really would like to avoid welding a custom mounting plate similar to the american T5 joysticks.
thanks.
Minus01
04-06-2005, 07:07 AM
Hey I'm a stupid noob. (Sorry) Anyway is it necessary to mod an HRAP or is it perfect right out of the box?
DarkChylde
04-06-2005, 08:25 AM
Hey I'm a stupid noob. (Sorry) Anyway is it necessary to mod an HRAP or is it perfect right out of the box?
The buttons are made by Hori so those will need replacing if you want it to be all japanese. Although it's not necessary as it is really good out of the box, Sanwa buttons feel quite a bit better than the stock Hori.
Minus01
04-06-2005, 06:18 PM
All right thanks man!
454Casull
04-07-2005, 09:40 PM
If anybody wants it, I have the Sega sit-down cabinet style button layout in AutoCAD format.
http://us.f2.yahoofs.com/bc/42560bbc_554b/bc/My+Documents/J-style+Button+Layout.dwg?bfTBhVCBtRe0KGUX
You can move the center of the joystick hole wherever you want, obviously. Likewise, you can add the start/select buttons anywhere.
Carefree
04-08-2005, 02:53 PM
did anyone post a picture showing details on where to solder everything on a pad? sorry but thread is a bit big to search :P if not someone mind doing so? Dunno what I'm doing and would be really helpful, where all the grounds, wires, etc go. thx again
454Casull
04-08-2005, 06:01 PM
did anyone post a picture showing details on where to solder everything on a pad? sorry but thread is a bit big to search :P if not someone mind doing so? Dunno what I'm doing and would be really helpful, where all the grounds, wires, etc go. thx again
Which pad?
Carefree
04-09-2005, 01:48 AM
mad catz, or anything will be helpful
454Casull
04-09-2005, 11:04 AM
A Mad Catz Dreamcast pad?
http://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/madcatz.htm
Carefree
04-09-2005, 12:35 PM
playstation/2, sorry :p
nmbr1krush
04-09-2005, 02:34 PM
I have a few questions. I've been reading the thread and I'm gonna be building a new set of sticks. And I've heard nothing but good things about the sticks and buttons.
1. Is the accuracy between a regualar microswitch Sanwa and a 360 comparable? I looked on himuragames, but I didnt see the flash sticks for sale.
2. On the US tekken 5 machines. Are those real sanwa sticks? Which I believe they are. I dont like them. But I read about the different gates. Are those octagon gates or 4 way?
nothingxs
04-09-2005, 02:50 PM
How can I take the center part out of a Sanwa button? I have 3 yellow buttons and 3 yellow red buttons and I want to put the yellow centers into the red buttons and the red centers into the yellow buttons.
metrock1
04-09-2005, 05:24 PM
How can I take the center part out of a Sanwa button? I have 3 yellow buttons and 3 yellow red buttons and I want to put the yellow centers into the red buttons and the red centers into the yellow buttons.
With each button on the sides there is a space in where the plunger part of the button in wich you can fit a small screwdirver and press in gently. You might need one for each side but be careful not to apply too much pressure and break off the plastic. When you have it pushed in you can pull it out fom the top.
nothingxs
04-09-2005, 06:26 PM
It works! Thanks.
Another question: I want to either sand or somehow modify an octagonal resistor plate for a Sanwa to instead have a circular gate. This is mostly for curiosity, can anyone tell me if anyone has tried this before? Even if not, can anyone suggest a tool that might accomplish this?
zeppelinfr34k
04-10-2005, 07:44 PM
Hey guys, I'm interested in putting Sanwa stuff into a cheap stick, and I was wondering if there is a stick on the market right now that the parts will fit into easily? I'd like to do it without any cutting or grinding down if possible because I'm living in dorms and I don't have access to a dremel or drill. If not, what in your opinion is the best compromise between an inexpensive stick and an easy mod? I'd rather not do a HRAP because it's pretty expensive to begin with. I'm pretty decent at soldering, so I'd rather do more of that and less cutting if possible. Sorry if this has been asked before; I didn't see it here but I might have missed it.
Also, has anyone tried this stick (http://www.play-asia.com/paOS-13-71-m-70-imc.html#)? Does anyone know what parts are in it?
DarkChylde
04-10-2005, 11:20 PM
I have a few questions. I've been reading the thread and I'm gonna be building a new set of sticks. And I've heard nothing but good things about the sticks and buttons.
1. Is the accuracy between a regualar microswitch Sanwa and a 360 comparable? I looked on himuragames, but I didnt see the flash sticks for sale.
2. On the US tekken 5 machines. Are those real sanwa sticks? Which I believe they are. I dont like them. But I read about the different gates. Are those octagon gates or 4 way?
1. Accuracy on all new sticks are consistent, just that ones with microswitches wear out then become inaccurate.
2. Yes, they are real Sanwas with a square restrictor.
Another question: I want to either sand or somehow modify an octagonal resistor plate for a Sanwa to instead have a circular gate. This is mostly for curiosity, can anyone tell me if anyone has tried this before? Even if not, can anyone suggest a tool that might accomplish this?
Someone on the forums has done it as well as a friend of mine. Sandpaper.
yoooooon
04-10-2005, 11:43 PM
sup guys,
here is my namco stick mod (http://himuragames.suddenlaunch3.com/index.cgi?board=playerproj&action=display&num=1113008096)
:clap:
i did a slightly different mounting technique than the one mentioned before- the screw cutting and base shaving.
all you do is widen the holes on the base and sand the gate in certain areas and you got GOLD! I also painted the bottom cause we all know that those hoes like to rust after some time.
Ramon
04-10-2005, 11:47 PM
yoooooon:
I'm also modding my old school Namco stick, do you think it would be a bad idea to get screw in Sanwa buttons? Becuase I wasn't able to get the snap ins I wanted. How much more work is it to get sanwa screw ins compared to the Snap ins? any idea?
Plus did you paint the plastic casing as well or is that stock colored ( I noticed you painted the template did you get it professionally done? Or did you just sand off the old paint and paint it yourself?)
Later,
yoooooon
04-10-2005, 11:54 PM
sup mate,
On that red one, i used screw ins. they are not difficult at all to use on the namco stick. just make sure you have the nut of the button going on the right way or the nut+button won't close all the way. i don't know if its just me but on my screw-ins, i thought you could just put it on either way and it would close all the way, but it doesn't. just make sure you do that, because i was killing myself in order to try and figure that shite out. i hope i'm making sense.
as for the metal plate thing- i just sanded that and painted it. the red one came out SUPER nice, but i painted a yellow one with the same brand paint and it has been a nightmare. think twice before you paint because my yellow one is being a TOTAL bitch. Plus, if you don't have a dust free environment, get ready to play with bumps on your panel. I tried to repaint my yellow one probably 3-4 times now, and i just gave up.
the plastic casing is stock colored.
Ramon
04-11-2005, 12:00 AM
yoooooon:
But for snap in buttons, aren't the prongs placed differently
|...| normal snap ins
|..
...| screw ins
How did you get that to fit the PCB? or did you wire them seperatly then solder the wires from the buttons to the PCB?
later,
yoooooon
04-11-2005, 12:22 AM
the screw ins I received are just like the other sanwa- snap ins
you can even take the switches out and swap them with screw ins-
Ramon
04-11-2005, 12:37 AM
yoooooon:
sounds great, Yeah I noticed I made a mistake on the snap-ins part. I was looking at the wrong kind. Ooops
Looks like I'll be getting white screw ins. This mod by far will be my most difficult one. Hopefully it turns out as good as I planned it to be.
Also, did you have to use the hori shaft or did you use default Namco shaft?
Later,
(if you have any other additional comments or hints of how to mod this stick let me know perhaps by PM. Becuase you will be one of my greatest sources)
Sh4DoW
04-13-2005, 12:43 PM
Well i'm pretty new to wiring a sanwa stick....yah and i guess you can say i'm lazy to read all the threads. But can someone post a site or anything on a tutorial to wire sanwa parts. I'd greatly appreciate it
Well i'm pretty new to wiring a sanwa stick....yah and i guess you can say i'm lazy to read all the threads. But can someone post a site or anything on a tutorial to wire sanwa parts. I'd greatly appreciate it
yeah check out the forums at shoryuken.com
True_Tech
04-14-2005, 03:42 AM
:sad: i fucked up 3 pcbs the first one wasn't my fault the little thing holding the right shoulder triggers broke so i couldn't use it the second one was some interact pcb that was perfect but when i put the solder on it accidently got on the ground so when i tested start it just kept resetting the third one was DONE i tested all the buttons while i soldered and they work perfect then i try the directons i put the thing on the prongs of the stick and the fuckin left on the pcb doesn't work :sad: :sad: :sad: :sad: :sad: man all this work its almost 5 in the morning and i'm out of pcbs to use cause this one controller won't open i gotta go back to gamestop tomorrow and get another pad to use fuckin sony :sad: :sad: :sad: :sad: :sad: :sad:
Dude, chances are you can reuse the 3 pcbs, but man three pcb's shit ask someone to get you out. if you got solder on the ground on the second pcb it sounds like the solder is also touching something else, use some solder wick to remove the excessive solder, and apply the ground again.
True_Tech
04-14-2005, 04:44 AM
i can probaby reuse the second one but the first one is done for cause the trace got fucked up when the shoulder wire broke i just gotta get a desolder kit to clean off everything and who knows whats wrong the third one left wouldn't work at all and i know it wasn't because of my soldering
nothingxs
04-14-2005, 06:37 PM
Another question: I want to either sand or somehow modify an octagonal resistor plate for a Sanwa to instead have a circular gate. This is mostly for curiosity, can anyone tell me if anyone has tried this before? Even if not, can anyone suggest a tool that might accomplish this?
Someone on the forums has done it as well as a friend of mine. Sandpaper.
So just sand that shit for a while?
DarkChylde
04-15-2005, 03:32 PM
Yeah, just sand it down.
Landel
04-16-2005, 08:28 AM
Was considering building a custom joystick during my holidays. Have some questions for you guys.
1. Is Sanwa stuff really so great that you'd have to mod a Namco stick? I borrowed my uncle's yellow and grey Namco stick, and I thought it was one of the best sticks I've ever used. I mean, how much better could Sanwa stuff possibly be that you guys would pay good money and expend time and effort to mod that stick?
2. Is there anywhere I can buy the yellow Namco sticks? Or are they totally extinct? But it seems like an awful good number of you guys have the Namco sticks...
3. Can the Sanwa 30 mm screw-ins be used on, say, a 1 to 2 mm thick sheet metal? I'm thinking of white Sanwas on a metal overlay for the custom stick. If that's possible, I may just mount the buttons directly onto the metal overlay. Would try top mounting the stick on recessed wood though.
4. Routers - do you guys use hand plane routers, or the power tool router? Getting a router might be a problem for me.
5. Is a metal overlay a good idea? Was thinking of something similar to the Namco stick... including counter-sinking the screws holding the plate to the base. After all, sheet metal isn't too difficult for me to get... but Lexan sure is. And I really like the "cool" feeling of a metal overlay when you rest your hands.
6. Is there a proper template I can use for the "official" Japanese layout, complete with dimensions?
7. Is all the extra work really worth it? Or should I just get a HRAP Capcom Fighting Jam. They have it in stores where I am (Singapore).
Thanks for taking the time to reply!
xXxDa_RaGexXx
04-16-2005, 08:30 AM
Does any know if the Capcom vs. Snk 2 joystick is able to be modded with sanwa parts??
DarkChylde
04-16-2005, 10:38 AM
Was considering building a custom joystick during my holidays. Have some questions for you guys.
1. Is Sanwa stuff really so great that you'd have to mod a Namco stick? I borrowed my uncle's yellow and grey Namco stick, and I thought it was one of the best sticks I've ever used. I mean, how much better could Sanwa stuff possibly be that you guys would pay good money and expend time and effort to mod that stick?
2. Is there anywhere I can buy the yellow Namco sticks? Or are they totally extinct? But it seems like an awful good number of you guys have the Namco sticks...
3. Can the Sanwa 30 mm screw-ins be used on, say, a 1 to 2 mm thick sheet metal? I'm thinking of white Sanwas on a metal overlay for the custom stick. If that's possible, I may just mount the buttons directly onto the metal overlay. Would try top mounting the stick on recessed wood though.
4. Routers - do you guys use hand plane routers, or the power tool router? Getting a router might be a problem for me.
5. Is a metal overlay a good idea? Was thinking of something similar to the Namco stick... including counter-sinking the screws holding the plate to the base. After all, sheet metal isn't too difficult for me to get... but Lexan sure is. And I really like the "cool" feeling of a metal overlay when you rest your hands.
6. Is there a proper template I can use for the "official" Japanese layout, complete with dimensions?
7. Is all the extra work really worth it? Or should I just get a HRAP Capcom Fighting Jam. They have it in stores where I am (Singapore).
Thanks for taking the time to reply!
1) It's quite a noticable difference, whether that difference is worth it is really up to you.
2) Ebay
3) Sounds kinda thin, but not totally sure.
4) Don't know
5) It's a good idea, it's just that it's more expensive to buy and to work with. But if you have access to the right tools then it's totally worth it.
6) Here is a link to what Catch-22 used for his control panels. (http://s87314581.onlinehome.us/6-button.jpg)
7) Building a custom stick is very time consuming and more expensive unless you have all the tools on hand. But the feeling you get when you're finished and you get the play on your own creation is priceless. (I know it sounds cheezy, but it's true)
Landel
04-18-2005, 07:47 AM
Hey thanks for the reply DarkChylde!
So... Can anyone else answer the questions he couldn't? Or give your own opinions?
454Casull
04-18-2005, 09:13 AM
I have access to a router, so I would use that if necessary. It's hard to say whether or not it's worth it to buy one.
Theoretically, the screw-in buttons can be used in any thickness, since the threads extend almost all the way to the bottom of the bezel. If there's still a gap when the nut is screwed in all the way, you can loosen it, wrap some string around the bottom of the sheet metal, and screw it in again. Just be careful that the buttons aren't too close together, or you'll have to sand the nuts down.
ShinHed
04-18-2005, 09:38 AM
Hey thanks for the reply DarkChylde!
So... Can anyone else answer the questions he couldn't? Or give your own opinions?
Here's an opinion,
Metal control panels are cooler than wood panels and look more high end to me.
My custom panel made with a metal panel from Lowes, installed in a Sega Twin Stick case.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/JewGal/DSC00246.jpg
(Write up on the Hori T5 in pic comming in a week)
Another JP stick template..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/JewGal/img20050418020041.jpg
orochi man
04-18-2005, 11:32 AM
I need help customising my red octane into a sanwa stick and buttons.
I am buying the stick and buttons from himura site.
here are some questions i have
1.will the bottons and stick fit?
2.what is better top or bottom mountig the plate and how?
3.i want to add art to it how do i do it?
4.What other supplies do i need to make this to work?
By the way i am using the pcb from the pelican real arcade stick.
THanks for your help
454Casull
04-19-2005, 06:17 PM
3D model for my next stick, if anybody wants to check it out.
http://www.rootminus1.com/guest/sanwa_candy_cab_13.5x10.5x2.25_3D.dwg
Landel
04-20-2005, 05:48 AM
Hey thanks for the replies guys! That really helps answer my questions.
Carefree
04-20-2005, 01:33 PM
whats the difference between sanwa and Seimitsu buttons? and how come there's no default black sanwa at himuragames, just curious :P
454Casull
04-20-2005, 05:13 PM
Sanwa doesn't make black buttons or joystick tops.
SpiffyShoes
04-20-2005, 05:26 PM
Sanwa does make black Ball Tops and Bat Tops. They just don't make black buttons.
454Casull
04-20-2005, 09:02 PM
Sanwa does make black Ball Tops and Bat Tops. They just don't make black buttons.
Really? I've never seen them...
orochi man
04-21-2005, 09:09 AM
answer my qoestions please
DarkChylde
04-21-2005, 11:48 AM
I need help customising my red octane into a sanwa stick and buttons.
I am buying the stick and buttons from himura site.
here are some questions i have
1.will the bottons and stick fit?
2.what is better top or bottom mountig the plate and how?
3.i want to add art to it how do i do it?
4.What other supplies do i need to make this to work?
By the way i am using the pcb from the pelican real arcade stick.
THanks for your help
1) No, it won't fit without modifications. The button holes will be need to be widened. And refer to answer number 2.
2) Either way is feasible, but both will need routing. Refer to www.modeverything.com for a tutorial for top mounting.
3) Make it in an art program or as someone in IMM to make you one, go to Kinko's and get it printed, and put it under the plexi.
4) 30 MM drill, a router, are the main tools, and other small random tools you should have on hand.
orochi man
04-22-2005, 12:02 PM
thanks darkchylade. i tried the modeverything webpage but it dosent work?
what kind of router are u talking about
454Casull
04-22-2005, 04:19 PM
thanks darkchylade. i tried the modeverything webpage but it dosent work?
what kind of router are u talking about
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_router
The modeverything site works. I don't see why you can't access it.
Kayin
04-22-2005, 05:33 PM
Sooooo..... I got my HRAP in the mail yesterday. It's awesome. But I might mod it with Sanwa pushbuttons sometime. How would one go at this? I hear it's pretty easy.
JetEnduro
04-22-2005, 06:21 PM
Sooooo..... I got my HRAP in the mail yesterday. It's awesome. But I might mod it with Sanwa pushbuttons sometime. How would one go at this? I hear it's pretty easy.
Open it, take off the quick disconnects, pop out the buttons, pop in the sanwas, plug the quick disconnects back on and you're done.
Kayin
04-22-2005, 06:31 PM
Open it, take off the quick disconnects, pop out the buttons, pop in the sanwas, plug the quick disconnects back on and you're done.
. . . Wow.
SiLLiEMutAfuKA
04-23-2005, 12:40 PM
Open it, take off the quick disconnects, pop out the buttons, pop in the sanwas, plug the quick disconnects back on and you're done.
He's right, I repeated this tons of times on the Hardware board, it's easy as FUCK.
Here's mines.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v709/smf3/DSC05498.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v709/smf3/DSC05494.gif
Kayin
04-23-2005, 12:58 PM
Pink! :rofl: Nice hahaha...
I think I'm gonna go for an all blue look. :D
orochi man
04-23-2005, 08:25 PM
Thanks sillymuthafuka modeverthin.com is working now and thanks for aswering the router question
mynus
04-24-2005, 02:45 PM
Ok I have a ? Im going to mod my Agetec and i need to know what are the difference in the gates for Sanwa (performance,ect.) and which one should i get. also if possible i would want to get a optical but those are discontinued. is ebay a possibility for finding it? Thx
DarkChylde
04-24-2005, 08:23 PM
Performance is just a matter of personal preference. Since American's are used to circular or octagonal ones, some prefer octagonal gates. But some people wanna have a correct Japanese counterpart, and square is what they use over there. As far as the Flash stick (optical) are concerned, I really even doubt Ebay would have em, but you might wanna poke around on the boards and see if some people are willing to give theirs up.
Ouroborus
04-25-2005, 07:48 PM
okay, i've recently bought 2 sanwa sticks from himuragames.
but i forgot to buy the mounting plates thinking i wouldnt need it. i'm still waiting rod keyes to reply back to my email, but in the mean time, i'm thinking of substitudes in case i cant get the plates.
i dont want to install the stick from the bottom because it would be wayy too short.
is there any way to substitude a mounting plate?
using plexiglass is out of the question because it will break.
i'm thinking of buying a small piece of lexan and cut it out in a shape of the sanwa mounting plates. would that work? i heard lexan is really durable but how strong is it anyways?
also, whats the bolt size for the mounting plates to the sanwa sticks?
DarkChylde
04-25-2005, 09:55 PM
Just shoot Rod back an email. He is really cool about changing an order. I wouldn't try any substitutes as it won't be as good and will prolly be more expensive. Screws and bolts are included to attach the stick to the mounting plates.
TheRealNeoGeo
04-27-2005, 10:43 PM
http://arkadesticks.com/butnen.JPG
1. How large is the nut.
2. How thick material can I mount it in?
Would be great is somebody could measure it in millimeter so it gets more accurate.
Thanks!
fakie tre
04-29-2005, 09:45 AM
im alittle confused but i need to know if i use the solderless a series hack exactly which wires would i wire to the sanwa prongs if i used quick dissconects, would i need to daisy chain it? and also if i used a 5 pin connector would i just put the 5 wires into the ribbon?
ShinJN
04-29-2005, 12:44 PM
What is the spade bit/hole saw size for start buttons? I'm thinking 15/16.
ShinJN
04-29-2005, 12:50 PM
im alittle confused but i need to know if i use the solderless a series hack exactly which wires would i wire to the sanwa prongs if i used quick dissconects, would i need to daisy chain it? and also if i used a 5 pin connector would i just put the 5 wires into the ribbon?
You cannot use quick disconnects on the Sanwa stick. The prongs, the 5-pin connector, isn't made to accept quick disconnects. Best bet is to solder your wires onto the prongs, onto the microswitch contacts, or use the 5-pin cable and connect the wires from that to your PCB.
fakie tre
04-29-2005, 06:35 PM
ooops i meant how would i wire the wires to the BUTTONS. sorry
JetEnduro
04-29-2005, 08:06 PM
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/Airgetlamh/Picture6.jpg
Just a quick pic of my modded HRAP :bgrin:
Sorry for the crappy quality but i didn't have a digital camera at hand. :sad:
454Casull
04-29-2005, 10:31 PM
ooops i meant how would i wire the wires to the BUTTONS. sorry
Use alligator clips. You know, the ones you put on your nipples.
Superking
04-30-2005, 02:13 AM
i'm thinking of buying a small piece of lexan and cut it out in a shape of the sanwa mounting plates. would that work? i heard lexan is really durable but how strong is it anyways?
Yes what he said, and to add to that, I know there isn't really a difference, and I'm too lazy to go back many posts about it, but how would one go about putting in Sanwa snap-ins in a wood case?
454Casull
05-01-2005, 03:20 PM
Route the area so that the wood is thin enough for the clips to snap onto. Or, you can clip the buttons onto 1/8" acrylic or polycarbonate (Plexiglas and Lexan respectively are some trademarks) which goes on top of the top panel. You'll need to file away tabs in the panel so that the clips don't touch the sides (or else they won't snap onto the plastic).
See here: http://arcadereview.com/images/router/8.jpg
Superking
05-01-2005, 03:28 PM
Cool, because I ordered Sanwa snap ins and I'm using particle board btw.
JCBass
05-02-2005, 10:56 AM
i just bought a hori real arcade pro which i believe has a sanwa stick in it. The only problem is that the ball top keeps unscrewing while im plaing. Is there a way to deal with this?
TooHectic
05-02-2005, 12:05 PM
i just bought a hori real arcade pro which i believe has a sanwa stick in it. The only problem is that the ball top keeps unscrewing while im plaing. Is there a way to deal with this?
If you open the joystick case up (unscrew the bottom plate, then you can access the screws for the top plate), there is a slot in the bottom of the joystick shaft where you can insert a screw driver. Use the screwdriver to hold the shaft in place so you can really torque down on the ball top.
The Mullah
05-02-2005, 12:31 PM
or stick a little blue tac up the ball hole and it wont move either.
mynus
05-02-2005, 05:20 PM
What exactly does the square restrictor and octogonal restrictor in a sanwa do? like what is the difference between them? i need to know b4 i order my stuff
454Casull
05-02-2005, 05:24 PM
What exactly does the square restrictor and octogonal restrictor in a sanwa do? like what is the difference between them? i need to know b4 i order my stuff
When you move the joystick shaft all the way to one side, and rotate it in a circle (at the limits of motion), the square gate will cause the motion to be square-like (you can really feel the four diagonal corners). The octagonal gate will have less sharply-defined directions, but will also have a "notchiness" at U/D/L/R.
koopatroopa
05-04-2005, 04:38 PM
is it very difficult to change the restrictor plates?
and also im torn b/w an american or jap style stick
i played on a sanwa today and really liked the feel of the sanwa but i found that it felt like the whole stick would turn in my hand
is this normal and if so can it be changed?
fivehit
05-04-2005, 05:50 PM
watch vids of japanese players with their sanwas. it's like they're cupping the ball from underneath. if that's not the right way to hold a sanwa, it's definitely the most badass.
Landel
05-04-2005, 11:24 PM
Hi, does anyone know the exact dimensions of the mounting plate for the JLF-TP-8YT?
I believe it's 1.5 mm thick, but other than that, I have no other info. Is there a datasheet for this? I need the dimensions, including the hole sizes and locations for the screws. Thanks!
454Casull
05-05-2005, 09:40 AM
This may help.
http://www.rootminus1.com/howard/sanwasticken.GIF
Landel
05-05-2005, 10:27 AM
This may help.
http://www.rootminus1.com/howard/sanwasticken.GIF
Unfortunately, I need more dimensions than that. Those are the dimensions for mounting the stick onto the plate itself, but not for mounting the plate onto your case.
Thanks for the help though! Hopefully someone else can answer my question.
ragnafrak
05-09-2005, 01:33 PM
arm, have any suggestions on a clear material that I could use as a replacement top for a HRAP? I was aiming toward lexan but I wanted to make sure.
ParryPerson.
05-14-2005, 06:58 PM
Ok, I've seen some Namco PS1 Sanwa mods in here, but I belive this thread is more about everything Sanwa, and I had some questions, if they have been convered before, please forgive me, or point me to the thread.
The Namco I own is this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/ParryPerson/NamcoPS1.jpg
Found at a garage sale in the box for 10 bucks.
Do the Sanwa buttons fit in these spots? The stock buttons look huge, and is their a guide to this type of Namco mod? I belive I have seen the info for this somewhere, I'll try searching this thread again.
Someone just said that a Namco modded for Sanwa stuff doesn't feel right, or doesn't really fit right, would I be better off just making a new/buying a box for it and gutting the PCB from the Namco?
lcr.youngblud
05-16-2005, 06:02 PM
do anyone have a hole template for sanwa buttons, I lost the one I had
454Casull
05-17-2005, 02:56 PM
http://www.rootminus1.com/howard/6-button.jpg
ShinHed
05-18-2005, 08:36 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/JewGal/img20050418020041.jpg
ShinHed
05-19-2005, 03:19 PM
My latest updated stick
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90955
Gaijinblaze
05-22-2005, 01:51 PM
I know people have used the Namco stick's shaft in a Sanwa JLF, but has anyone tried putting a Sanwa shaft into a Hori joystick body? If so, how did it work out?
mynus
05-25-2005, 08:22 PM
I know that the Sanwa joystick is loose. Im used to p360's they are stiff. is it possible to swap the spring in the JLF joystick? and if so what spring do i need? any help is very much appreciated.
koopatroopa
05-27-2005, 07:08 AM
With the tan side of the pcb facing you, and the prongs pointing downward here are the directions from the left to right prong-
1 - left
2 - right
3 - down
4 - up
5 - ground
Im gonna wire my stick up today and i was wonderin if this is correct and if using that 5 pin plug adapter if those numbers on the plug are the same as the above
thanks
leaveal
05-29-2005, 07:58 AM
Do the Sanwa buttons fit in these spots? The stock buttons look huge, and is their a guide to this type of Namco mod? I belive I have seen the info for this somewhere, I'll try searching this thread again.
Someone just said that a Namco modded for Sanwa stuff doesn't feel right, or doesn't really fit right, would I be better off just making a new/buying a box for it and gutting the PCB from the Namco?
Sanwa buttons fit perfectly.
the stock stick is great IMO, so i don't think there's any need to mod it. if you do, take a look at ASM's guide.
http://www.arcadestickmonk.com/asm-namco-sanwa-mod.html
i don't like using the Hori actuator though. i rather like to cut the Sanwa actuator instead.
JetEnduro
05-30-2005, 05:04 PM
I know that the Sanwa joystick is loose. Im used to p360's they are stiff. is it possible to swap the spring in the JLF joystick? and if so what spring do i need? any help is very much appreciated.
just take out the spring and take it with you to a hardware store so you can compare the size and stuff like home depot. This was mentioned on page 14 of this thread.
ShinHed
06-12-2005, 10:53 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/JewGal/DSC00362.jpg
ShinHed
06-13-2005, 05:33 AM
http://pld.hp.infoseek.co.jp/cgi-bin/imgboard/img-box/img20050611234625.jpg
ParryPerson.
06-20-2005, 04:22 PM
Ok I'm going to put Sanwa buttons in my Namco and get a new ball top for my stock namco stick, here my questions,
I really would like to keep this solder free, I can solder, but I might be wanting to use these parts elsewhere later, and it's much easier/clean with QD's, but someone said I can't use QD's with Sanwa buttons? Is that right? What are other options? I will solder if I NEED to.
Also, someone said I should just throw in another PCB instead of just swaping out the buttons with the stock Namco PCB, why?
DarkChylde
06-20-2005, 09:06 PM
You can use QD's on Sanwa parts, but you might have to bend the prongs because the bottom might not fit with the added QD. It's not that much of a hassle to clean up solder if you have a solder sucker and/or desoldering braid.
As far as the PCB goes unless you're planning to use the stick on multiple consoles using converters I'm sure the stock PCB is fine.
ShinHed
06-21-2005, 09:50 PM
Use QD's of the .110" type from a car audio supply store or even Advanced Auto, Pep Boys, etc....
If your intent on not drilling the pcb (to get Sanwa's to fit) and soldering, I'd velcro the Namco pcb to the bottom panel and install wires and QD's in the original holes.
Quicksilver3007
06-22-2005, 10:36 AM
Allright got a bunch of different questions so here goes.
1) Is a button hole for a standard 30 mm sanwa pushbutton the same size as a happs pushbutton? I just have a 1 1/8 inch drill bit that I use for the happs buttons and I need to know if I need to get a new one for sanwas.
2) Are the screw in type buttons the only option if using MDF for a box? If not how would you mount a metal plate to install the snap in buttons?
3) Is a sanwa flash joystick the equivalent of a perfect 360 in American parts? If so does it require the same 5 volts for power?
4) What is the difference in feel of the four and eight way gates? Are they similar to the differences between a happs competition and ultimate?
5) What are some good sites that sell sanwa parts besides himuragames?
Thanks for any help in advance. :karate:
DarkChylde
06-22-2005, 11:51 AM
1) Nope, Sanwa buttons are a litle bigger. Either search online for the correct drill bit or widen the holes with sandpaper or something.
2) For snap-ins in a wodden box, you'll have to either route the bottom OR route out the top and mount a metal plate.
3) Yeah, and yes, it requires 5V.
4) One feels like a square and one feels like an octagon. Not sure as I'm lucky to play on P360s at my local arcade and at home.
5) Rod from himuragames is the only Sanwa supplier you'll need. Awesome guy and can't go wrong with free snacks.
Quicksilver3007
06-22-2005, 05:37 PM
I think that I'll just get a 1 and 3/16 inch bit for the sanwas. I'm used to the screw-ins from happs so that would be simpler especially since I like to use MDF. If I don't like the square gate then I'll just buy an octagon one. Looks like I'm getting my stuff from himuragames. Free is always in my budget.
Preciate the info DarkChylde. :tup:
ShinHed
06-22-2005, 09:44 PM
........
5) What are some good sites that sell sanwa parts besides himuragames?
Thanks for any help in advance. :karate:
http://www.riverservice.co.jp/index_e.html
Yeah, they ship to the USA.
EvlAsh
06-23-2005, 10:47 AM
What size quick disconnects would be best for Sanwa push buttons, 0.110 or 0.187?
ShinHed
06-23-2005, 11:09 AM
Check 6 posts up.
GaijinPunch
06-25-2005, 01:38 PM
Finally going to get around to modding my own stick, as I've got some time to kill now. DC AC Stick->PS2. For the Sanwa buttons... should I even bother with crimps, or solder them directly. I see a copule of images where the ground is just a stripped wire run through each of the buttons and then grounded somewhere. Looks ghetto, but hey... if it works...
THChardcore
07-01-2005, 10:52 AM
I wrote this a little while back, forgot to throw it up. Hope it helps.
In reponse to the flood of PMs I've gotten and do to the fact I can't answer them all over again with the same information. Here is my thread on customizing your stock agetec Dc stick. I will cover a lot of ground here, if you have any questions for clarification, let me know. I can get pictures up later if you need, but school is really kicking in already.
Okay, the first thing you're going to need to do is actually get a stick. If your modding it, just check around ebay and find one that has a good condition plastic shell and metal overlay. It can be broken as fuck, just as long as you have the case in tact without cracks, you're good to go.
Now onto the replacement parts
1 Sanwa JLW Ball top stick
6 Sanwa 30 mm buttons, screw type
1 Sanwa Octagonal plate
1 Five-pin cable
All of these parts can be ordered through www.Himuragames.com, The owner, Rod is an exceptionally nice businessman and also a fan of the schene, great service and decent prices, all good all around.
Next up are tools. All this job really requires is....
metal file (for opening up the button holes)
sandpaper of a decent grit (like 400, this is for sanding down the inside where you will mount the new stick)
Ps dualshock or pcb of your choice (to replace the stock DC one)
Soldering iron and some wires/solder ect
Torx screwdriver bit, I think a T-20 works.
Possibly a multimeter to test connections (it came in handy) and maybe a varibit to make opening up the button holes a hell of a lot easier.
Alright, not so bad, if you need a soldering iron get one they're at most 8 bucks for this type of work. If you need a diagram of your pbc, ask around online or use a meter to check your traces ect. I won't go over in detail how to solder, just remember don't be liberal. There are faqs online and you can ask around here in the other threads for pcb hacking.
Okay, assuming you hacked a pbc to have something to hook up your stick and buttons to, use a screwdriver to open the stick up from the bottom. UNhook all the connections that go to the Dreamcast PCB via those little ribbon cables. Next use your torx to take off the top metal plate. After you have down this, lift the plate out of it's resting nook and look under, notice the buttons and how they're clipped in? You need to unclip them and snip the wires to get them out of the case. After you have removed all the buttons, unscrew the pcb and lay it to the side then go for the stick. There will be a metal shaft with a little "e" ring facing you, use a pair of needlenose or a screwdriver to pry it off., you must push down on the white spring cap that is on the otherside to make sure it comes off easier and to avoid having the ring fly off and hurt you or get lost. Be careful. After that you should see that you can unscrew the ball top via putting a screwdriver in the slot and keeping it firm while you unscrew the ball.
With the stock stick removed we begin our first alteration on the case, specifically the plastic housing that consists of strips and circular tabs. Carefully using big plyers break off the tabs and strips of plastic. I found gripping on tight and carefully bending did the trick. After all of the above is removed, use sandpaper to sand any rocky plastic flat, you need to have have this area perfectly flat in order to mount the stick corectly. The black housing that comes with the stick with all the holes will be what we need to mount in order for the stick to hold. I will give you the 4 hole version. It is the strongest and most secure way to mount the stick without any external bolts. Okay look at the 4 outmost holes in the corners of the plastic mounting plate, that's where the screws will end up. I used 8/32 by 5/8 or 1/2 (can't recall) screws (after pre drilling holes obviously) and attched nuts and washers on top (so that they are upside down with the nuts and washers inside the recessed plastic area which is located under the metal overlay.) This is super strong and the metal plate covers it. After getting your plate on, it's a pretty straight forward assmelby of the stick that's left. Don't forget to put the dustcover on!
Now, it's time to make room for the buttons. If you ordered screw type 30 mm Sanwas then you'll need to go the adventerous route and use your needle nose plyers to "snip" a chunk of plastic from each of the 6 plastic circles that are about a 1/2 inch tall. After that, use the same plyer method mentioned in the above paragraph to rip them off the shell and sand them flat, also like above. That's part one, now comes the real work. Using a drill equiped with a vari-bit or a large circular file to open each of the holes on the metal overlay until a Sanwa button fits perfectly inside (don't worry you have a fair amount of slack as far as the button covering "mistakes", but try to stay snug if possible). After checking to make sure each button fits inside, go ahead and screw them down easily, given that the plastic rings were sanded flat. After that you should be set.
You can hot glue your pbc to the side of thye case, be creative, as long as it fits it's fine. There is also a great thread on how to multi-wire pcbs for a single stick that Shinace has up, check that out.
Props to Cigarbob and Dreadedfist as well as all others that helped with general ideas.
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BeatBox_Gorilla
07-01-2005, 05:12 PM
I have a bit of a problem here with my old, yellow buttoned Namco Stick and wanted some advice if it you could. Technically this isn't a post about mods but repairs although it could contain mods. I've got two buttons that don't work so I opened up my Stick but couldn't asssertain whether the buttons conections to the main circuit board were loose or if the buttons them selves were broken? What should I be looking for to qualify one of the problems and how would I fix them. I know if the buttons were broken I'd have to get some sanwa ones and get them put in (I don't have the tools to do it myself) but if the connection from the main circuit board were loose how would I fix that?
Thanks for the advice people :china:
Agetec mod stuff...
Thats ALOT of work to mod an Agetec, but your method is for people who dont have access to a Dremel and whatnot. In anycase, good shit. :tup:
And what I wanted originally posted, here are three more Tekken 5 stick mods of mine. I will remove the artwork, repaint the metal panel and coat it with polyurethane and/or add my own artwork...
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mode879/album?.dir=9b50&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mode879/my_photos
Toodles
07-01-2005, 11:08 PM
I have a bit of a problem here with my old, yellow buttoned Namco Stick and wanted some advice if it you could. Technically this isn't a post about mods but repairs although it could contain mods. I've got two buttons that don't work so I opened up my Stick but couldn't asssertain whether the buttons conections to the main circuit board were loose or if the buttons them selves were broken? What should I be looking for to qualify one of the problems and how would I fix them. I know if the buttons were broken I'd have to get some sanwa ones and get them put in (I don't have the tools to do it myself) but if the connection from the main circuit board were loose how would I fix that?
Thanks for the advice people :china:
If the two buttons that don't work don't EVER work, then you've got it easy. You just need to use a multimeter to determine where the problem is. Set the multimeter to resistance (Ohms). Look what the readout says. That's what it will look like when the circuit is broken. Now touch the two ends of the probes together, and see what the readout looks like. That's what it will look like the the circuit is good. Open the namco, use tape or something so the 'broken' button is pressed down. Touch a probe to each of the two legs of the switch you'll see sticking out through the pcb in a mess of solder. If the multimeter shows a broken circuit, and the button is definitely pressed, then its a bad button. Bad button means order 6 30mm buttons from Himuragames and replace all six at once via the direction on ArcadeStickMonk's page.
If the multimeter shows the button is working (a good circuit when the probes are touched to the legs of the switch), then it becomes a bit of a logic problem. You have to follow with your eyes and watch the little traces coming off of the button and try to use the same method to find where the break in the circuit it, and resolder or rewire over it. I am betting that the problem is either a worn out button, or one of the 'jumpers' used on that pcb. There are pieces of unshielded