Official Sanwa Modification Thread

[KnoWell]

Hi...

Anyone joystic master know the difference beetween sanwa
JLF-TP-8Y and JLW-TM-8 ?
I've start to build my custom stick but in my country, i only can get the JLW type (please dont ask what country is this). And the JLF type looks like official stick for any fighting game.

i know some one has post this question in
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97035

That was my friend, but until now, no one answer this question, so i post here. Please anyone who know the difference between that stick, any answer will be appreciated

[lonewolf6465]

Quick question, Ive mounted my sanwa into my agetec but for anyone that did this how in the hell did they complete the directional wiring? I tried wiring straight to teh sanwas prongs but that shit s too hard. So any suggestions or a harness type part to buy would be appreciated.

Thanks

[454Casull]

It's easier to solder to the pins on the Sanwa PCB if the joystick isn't mounted. What I did was strip the ends of 5 wires and wrap each around a pin, with adjacent wires hanging in the opposite direction. Then I soldered it in that position.

[leaveal]

you can also take out the PCB and THEN solder to the underside where there are already solder points.

[modcapper]

You can get a JLF-joystick harness from himuragames.com

http://www.himuragames.com/images/wire_harness_01.jpg

[buyproduct]

You can wire to the sanwa prongs you just need to use aligator clips to keep the wire in place and you need to heat the hell out the prong before you start laying down the solder. Here is a pic of mine.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y252/buyproduct/DSC00202.jpg

[KnoWell]

Someone answer my question please. I really need to know the difference beetween sanwa JLF-TP-8 Y and JLW-TM 8
I appreciate any answer. Thx

[!(•_•)!]

Someone answer my question please. I really need to know the difference beetween sanwa JLF-TP-8 Y and JLW-TM 8
I appreciate any answer. Thx

JLF is comparable to a Happs Competition, JLW is like a Happs Super.

The JLF tends to be preferred for fighting games.

[NeREMIXED]

will someone be willing to mod my US T5 stick? I have all the parts (buttons/stick) for it. I just don't have the time to do it. If anyone can, just name your price.

[Gaijinblaze]

A quick question: Just how hard is it to detach and attach a bare JLF to one of the mounting plates? I want to take my JLF off the plate and put another JLF on it, but do I have to take apart the stick for that?

Thanks.

[lonewolf6465]

thanks guys for the help =)

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Gaijinblaze
Hi!
You just screw off 4 screws and it comes off, don`t need to take the whole jlf apart ^_^.

[SNAAAAKE]

Hey I got a few questions for all you sanwa heads out there.I just got this from someone today and I am wondering how I can fit this on a american box with holes for regular happcontrol sticks.Its for my own panel which currently have happ competition sticks.Now questions.

My panel is 3/4" thick and the height of the sanwa stick is too short so what can I do ??

The sanwa battop should take care of the height problem ? This one here http://www.himuragames.com/images/battops_06.jpg

The sanwa JLW (http://www.imagehostplus.com/v2/usr/956/sanwa.jpg) stick I got from a member here is more like happcontrol super stick with leaf microswitchs but I want it more like happ comp so which sanwa stick is more like happ competition sticks ? ?

Thanks in advance :tup:

[acido]

You can wire to the sanwa prongs you just need to use aligator clips to keep the wire in place and you need to heat the hell out the prong before you start laying down the solder. Here is a pic of mine.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y252/buyproduct/DSC00202.jpg

can you solder on the prongs of the pcb where your supposed to attach that white connector.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

acido
Yes you can.

[acido]

@realneogeo ty =)

[SoulCaliFreak]

Well, here's another modded SC2 hori, cube version. Well, now it'll be a PS2 version. Same boltless method, solderless PS1 dual shock hack courtesy of Spiffy, but instead of keeping that tired old graphic, I made a new one for it.

Extra thick laminate so it'll hold up. Double tack paper to get it on there, and I just left the paper underneath that was left after removing the original arwork.

Sanwa JLF w/white ball top, white sanwa screw ins. I had to mod the case a little around the buttons to get two of the screw ins to fit. Forgive the crappy camera phone pic.

http://www.tmobilepictures.com/photos/photo03/83/b2/db4aba997fd3.jpg?_rh=5898arru4l1pijdxv43mbpvhe

SC3 themed of course. Now I can disassemble the PS2 hori mod and put a new graphic on that one as well. Probably new colors too on the buttons and ball top, we'll see.

[!(•_•)!]

SNAAAKE, you want a sanwa JLF stick, Rod at himuragames sells them. You will also have to use a router so shave the wood down to a thin enough thickness to fit the stick in there.

I'm pretty sure there is a guide on www.modeverything.com

[BeatBox_Gorilla]

I got my buttons at last but the Sanwa prongs don't fit into the old namco PCB holes, do I need to extend the holes into slits or should I be doing something else. Thanks people

[TPK!]

can a seimitsu stick replace a sanwa stick with out having to mod anything

Also is there a place where i can buy american sticks(the actual stick) in different colors?

[xXxDa_RaGexXx]

Also is there a place where i can buy american sticks(the actual stick) in different colors?

Happcontrols.com

[TPK!]

...they dont have it there

[Toodles]

You should look harder, or call them up and ask them over the phone.

The competition shaft part numbers:
95-0193-00 Red
95-0193-02 Blue
95-0193-03 Green
95-0193-05 Yellow
95-0193-06 Black

[454Casull]

...they dont have it there
yuo fail at teh intarweb lolol

As Toodles said, try harder.

[sheru86]

Hi, im a new member and i was wondering if u guys can help me out. I bought a mini interact arcade stick and its the worse stick ever. I want to replace teh old stick with the sanwa joystick. Is this possaible and how can it be done. Also when i opened it up, they where 5 wires leading from the joystick onto the mother board. Can i simply jsut replace though wires and insert them in the sanwa joystick. Those who were wondering where to buy sanwa joystick this is the site.

http://starburstcoin.com/a/browse.php?category=40&search=&ofs=4

Thhhhhank u very much

[TheRealNeoGeo]

zapatistab
It doesn`t matter.

KojiroSon
Himuragames.com has em.

[afireinside195]

can people give me their opinion on sanwa sticks vs Happ sticks please. i read the article about this but i cant decide which to get.

Is there anybody who played Happ Competition joysticks and then switched over to sanwa... how big a difference was there on feel? i know sanwa sticks are better but i dont want my hand to feel uncomfortable while i play.

[DevilJin 01]

can people give me their opinion on sanwa sticks vs Happ sticks please. i read the article about this but i cant decide which to get.

Is there anybody who played Happ Competition joysticks and then switched over to sanwa... how big a difference was there on feel? i know sanwa sticks are better but i dont want my hand to feel uncomfortable while i play.

I've had the experience of moving from Comp to Sanwa parts so I could give you an idea. Generally unless you like long shafts you're gonna to approve of the lightness and ease of response on the Sanwas. Especially if you're using a Comp stick with a hard spring. Sanwas are extremely loose (like an analog stick...but just a tad bit tighter) and generally aren't as high up from the stick. I like that though cuz it means I have to put less throw in to do the motions.

Both sticks are pretty clicky. Neither really makes more noise than the other IMO. The other big difference is that Sanwas generally come equipped with a square gate. Meaning you can feel the diagonals and all that good stuff. Some people prefer a circular gate where you don't have any dips in the diagonals but it's just preference really.

I seem to prefer the Sanwas just out of the fact that they require less hand work and are more precise. You barely have to move your hand when doing link combos and stuff in CVS2/3S. Happ's are still cool though.

[ragnafrak]

Do you guys think I'm better off top mounting a sanwa or bottom mounting and routing out the area for the stick? I was wanting to achieve the same stick height as the HRAP. From what TRNG tells me, I'd want to route out the wood so it is about 8mm thick (i'll be using 1mm lexan), that's thicker than 1/4", but I don't trust MDF at that thickness, and I don't know how countersinking will turn out either.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

ragnafrak
How thick is the MDF you working with? If you have 19mm thick (3/4) then it is no problem for, it will hold. And it is best to route out the top and topmount it, this way you have good amout of mdf to screw the sanwa mountinplate on without anything happening.

[ragnafrak]

ok, so i'm using 3/4" mdf, i'm thinking i'll use the 8S mounting plate ( http://www.himuragames.com/images/mounting_plate_04.jpg ), so i still get that desired height when I topmount it. Because if I used the regular bracket the shaft would be too long.. I dunno. Does this sound right?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

If you use the 8S it will sit higher, use the standard 8T and sink it down 8mm (your lexan is 1mm) so it is 25mm left of the lever.
http://arkadesticks.com/eightmms.JPG

[ragnafrak]

ok I see, like how chainz does it here:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/hav1k007/newcase3.jpg

should I worry about the artwork in that area being kind of loose? Or will it naturally adhere (like static electricity) to the lexan anyway?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Yes, I told Chainz this also ^_^.
Try taking a A4-paper and put it over a hole the size of the sanwahole and put lexan over the paper, you will see that it doesn`t go down ^_^, just make a large enough hole in the artwork where the lever is so it does not touch the artwork when you move it and it will be ok I think.

[ragnafrak]

cool, thanks for all the help man ;]

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Nemas problemas, send me pm if you have any other questions, maybe I can help (can try anyway ^_^).

[ranma_saotome]

hi, anyone tried dremelling a square gate sanwa into a completely round one? is it any good? i'm having difficulty in using square gate sanwas with games the have lots of hcf and qcf motions. If it doesnt work then i'd have to buy the oct-gate ones...

[['__']]

i think that it was kofiend that posted about this.. he sanded an octagonal gate into a circle, and it was too... open. the stick hit the switches (or the pcb) too hard and screwed it up. sanwa does make a circular gate, though.. the gt-0 or something like that. from pic in the catalog that TheRealNeoGeo posted, i cant figure out how it would attach to the stick, but it could be worth looking into.

[MrT]

Hi, I want to try and build a small arcade joystick, much like the Hori Fighting Stick 2. Is there a website that sells the parts? and also do I have to build the base or can I just buy it already constructed and I just put the buttons and stick in?

Thankyou.

[Mayhem]

"]sanwa does make a circular gate, though.. the gt-0 or something like that. from pic in the catalog that TheRealNeoGeo posted, i cant figure out how it would attach to the stick, but it could be worth looking into.
I think the GT-0 is only meant to be used with the JLW stick, that's why it looks so different from the other JLF restrictors.

[leaveal]

i don't think screw-ins are good for mods at all. :l the screws take too much space and they're REALLY hard to fit in, and they're even harder to take out. :(

[SoulCaliFreak]

Well, I noticed the last question asking for someone to mod went unanswered, I think. I have a Namco stick case. I've modded before, but I don't think I can do this one. That last pic of the modded Cube Hori didn't go so well.

My directionals seem to go on and off whenever they feel like it, or I get a VERY delayed signal. Not sure if it's because I used an older pcb, if it's because I soldered to the microswitches before soldering to the prongs, or what?

Anyway, I'd just like a professional job on the Namco case. I took out the original pcb and just have the wires hanging from the start/select/r2/l2 pcb. I'd like the Sanwa stick to be a legit Sanwa stick instead of the Hori shaft switch-a-roo, and of course sanwa buttons.

Con, if you're out there, we talked in Albuquerque about this. Lemme know a fair price for anyones services.

[purifyweirdsoul]

Hey where are you guys getting the clear/sparkly ball tops? I haven't seen them on himuragames or that other sanwa site

[SpiffyShoes]

The clear/sparkly ball tops are from Seimitsu. They are on Page 6 and Page 15 of their catalog. TheRealNeoGeo was kind enough to post a PDF of both the Sanwa and Seimitsu catalogs (http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102582) for us.

Himuragames can get the ball tops for you but he doesn't keep them in stock normally so he'd have to special order them for you. Send him an e-mail and let him know what you want.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

SoulCaliFreak
http://arkadesticks.com/namcomoden.htm
http://arkadesticks.com/namco2005.htm

[final_cut]

I'm looking for some advice on drilling holes in MDF and other wood that I may build my cases with. I don't know much about hole saws, but I do have a spade bit for happ-sized buttons. It works OK, but I'm thinking that a forstner(sp?) bit or a hole saw would be better- can anyone give me their preference?
Can I use Hole saws and forstner bits with a regular drill?

Additionally, I have been to both Home Depot and Lowes, and neither store has been able to find 1-3/16" (30mm) drill bits for me to use to make holes for my sanwa buttons. Any advice on the best place to shop for these?

What is the preferred width for the stick's hole? I am assuming it is the same, 30mm.

Also, I'm looking for the best place to buy Lexan. any help is appreciated.

[Locus]

quick question. can anyone tell me if the blue sanwa snap ins match the color of the blue sanwa bat top? thnx

[final_cut]

quick question. can anyone tell me if the blue sanwa snap ins match the color of the blue sanwa bat top? thnx

Yes, they are the closest match you will find. The texture is a bit different, but on the ones I have, they appear to be exactly the same.

[ParryPerson.]

Anyone have any Seimitsu stick building knowledge? how do they differ from the sanwas (mounting wise).

[Locus]

Yes, they are the closest match you will find. The texture is a bit different, but on the ones I have, they appear to be exactly the same.

thanks! :wgrin:

[TheRealNeoGeo]

ParryPerson.
Depends. What joystick you wanna use?

[SpiffyShoes]

The LS-32 and LS-40 sticks use the same mounting holes as a sanwa JLW and the LS-33, LS-55, and LS-56 use the same mounting holes as a sanwa JLF.

[DevilJin 01]

Hey SpiffyShoes or anyone else this may concern...

Where's a good place to get octagonal gates for a Sanwa JLW? Or does anyone have a few they could sell to me?

[Mayhem]

Where's a good place to get octagonal gates for a Sanwa JLW? Or does anyone have a few they could sell to me?
There aren't any octagonal restrictors for the JLW, at least not in the Sanwa catalog. There is however a GT-0 (or GT-O not sure) circular restrictor available for the JLW.

[DevilJin 01]

There aren't any octagonal restrictors for the JLW, at least not in the Sanwa catalog. There is however a GT-0 (or GT-O not sure) circular restrictor available for the JLW.

Yeah...tell me where I could get that.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

I can get it.

[stupid newbie]

I'm looking to build a custom stick and I've been told sanwas the way to go. So I've looked around and have emailed himura games about shipping costs (one of the reasons I'm building a stick, I live in Australia and so getting something like a hrap sent here costs almost as much as the unit itself). But still haven't recieved a reply. However I did find this site http://www.highway.net.au/parts/buttons_and_joysticks/?max=34&at=25&page=0

Which Leaves me with a couple of questions.
Firstly, how reliable is the industry, that is, am I likely to get legitimate sanwa parts or is there a significant risk of ending up with cheap knockoffs?

Secondly, the sanwa joystick advertised there does not come with a mounting plate, nor do they appear to sell them, from what I understand from this thread they can be top or bottom mounted, and only top mounting requires a mounting plate right? Well a)how would I go about bottom mounting the stick (It's been mentioned that there was a guide on modeverything.com but that site seems to be gone), how hard is it to fabricate your own mounting plate, and what's the differences in appearance and performance between top and bottom mounting?

Finally, just to confirm, sanwa joysticks by default come with a square gate right?

I'm aware that some of these questions are likely to sound pretty stupid, but I figure it's better I ask them then go ahead making the stick only to stuff something up because I overlooked something basic.

Edit: Should mention that I have some experience in soldering and electronics, but haven't done any wood or metalworking before, although I should be able to borrow all the tools that might be nessecary.

[leaveal]

top mounting guarantees that you have a tall ass stick, which is not something you'll find very often in arcades. quite uncomfortable IMO, since arcades usually have sticks at one inch tall or so. performance-wise, it's the same. and Square gates by default, yeah.

[dosu]

Is there a tutorial anywhere how to build a arcade stick that shows info about the volts and what pcb and all?

[Gaijinblaze]

I think the last question I asked was answered by TheRealNeoGeo a while ago, so thanks bud.

Does anyone know how well the colours between Seimitsu and Sanwa parts are coordinated? Like is the Seimitsu "light blue" identical to the Sanwa blue? Also, are balltops between the two brands interchangeable? In other words, can I put a Sanwa balltop on a Seimitsu stick?

Thanks in advance.

[SpiffyShoes]

Well the White Sanwa and Seimitsu buttons match but other than that the other colors don't match. The ball tops are interchangable though. So you can get Seimitsu buttons and a Sanwa joystick and put a Seimitsu ball top on it to make it match the buttons.

[Gaijinblaze]

Thanks. I doubt it, but by any chance are the mounting plates interchangeable too? The Seimitsu ones don't look compatible with my current mounting method.

Lastly, I heard that in Japan for 3S cabinets they use Seimitsu sticks and Sanwa buttons. Does anyone know if this is true? If it is, I wonder how they deal with the mismatched colour problem (assuming they don't put a Sanwa ball on the stick).

[dosu]

Does a stick with a psx pcb work fine with a psx to xbox converter?

[SpiffyShoes]

You can't take a sanwa mounting plate and put it on a Seimitsu without drilling some new holes in it.

I don't know what they use on their cabinets in Japan. I'm sure they are probably like the US in that they don't have a standard. They probably put what ever buttons and joystick in that they feel like. It probably varies from arcade to arcade. I'm sure they don't worry to much about the color differences between sanwa and seimitsu parts because when you are in an arcade you are usually paying attention to what is happening on the screen and not to the colors of the buttons and joystick.

[dosu]

Is 3/8 mdf and 1/8 lexan good for a top plate for sanwa parts and top mounting the stick plate maybe ill shave the mdf abit down so i dont see bolts in the lexan and i want the stick high 25mm

[dosu]

Does a happ controls button wrench work for 30mm sanwa screw in buttons?

[Gaijinblaze]

Thanks for helping me out, Spiffyshoes.

Dosu:

1. Depends on the PCB. I hear the Sony A-series PSX PCB works fine with the dreambox converter but don't quote me on that. Hit up the dedicated converter threads.

2. Might be just me, but 3/8" MDF sounds a little thin for top mounting. After routing out the top you'd be left with some pretty thin wood holding the stick up.

3. No, because the nut on Sanwa buttons is circular, not hexagonal.

[dosu]

Okay thanks alot, i bought 5/8 mdf and 1/8 lexan, hope its the right size

[Locus]

Secondly, the sanwa joystick advertised there does not come with a mounting plate, nor do they appear to sell them, from what I understand from this thread they can be top or bottom mounted, and only top mounting requires a mounting plate right?

that page you linked to shows the sanwa stick w/ the mounting plate, which is the big silver plate on it. i would call to make sure it comes with it if you need it, which would be if you are going to mount it on thick wood, then you would route the wood down to the desired height and install the plate.

~Locus

[BIGBADJ1M]

Hi

can someone help please?

I have an Xfighter stick - http://www.consolesandgadgets.co.uk/catalog/xfighting-stick-built-from-sega-virtua-stick-p-955.html - and I have a friend with a spare sanwa stick and buttons. Can someone tell me if I can swap out the factory standard shit with the sanwa please?

[10x]

Hi

can someone help please?

I have an Xfighter stick - http://www.consolesandgadgets.co.uk/catalog/xfighting-stick-built-from-sega-virtua-stick-p-955.html - and I have a friend with a spare sanwa stick and buttons. Can someone tell me if I can swap out the factory standard shit with the sanwa please?I don't see why not...

[leaveal]

Lastly, I heard that in Japan for 3S cabinets they use Seimitsu sticks and Sanwa buttons. Does anyone know if this is true? If it is, I wonder how they deal with the mismatched colour problem (assuming they don't put a Sanwa ball on the stick).


i don't think they'd care enough to match colors all the time.

BigBadJim:

if it uses the same buttons and Case as the Saturn stick, then you won't be able to just swap buttons because the button holes are smaller. you'll have to widen them.
to take out the stick, you'll need to remove the screws that are under the art thing.

[monkeyspank]

where can i go to get just a hori stick, not the whole hori but just the joy stick?

[J-ride]

Are the sanwas with the american bat style stick in them any bigger than the jap ones? I want to know if I could take an agetec style jstick and put a sanwa bat style stick in it. The ball top jsticks hurt my hand after a while.

[ParryPerson.]

I know this may seem retarded, but I can't find it in search,

I've only made happ sticks before, what size hole saws do I need for 30mm and 24mm buttons? (play and then start size buttons right?)

thanks, sorry for the newb question.

[Toodles]

what size hole saws do I need for 30mm and 24mm buttons?
:wtf: 24 millimeter and 30 millimeter maybe?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

ParryPerson.
Also, OBSF-30 will snap into 2, 3 and 4 millimeter thick materials, just a little "extra" info :).

[ParryPerson.]

Hey hey now toodles, don't get smart with me! I didn't know if the 30mm and 24mm included the size of the tops of the buttons... (leaving a hole they just fell thru)

i SAID it was a newb question. Thanks for the extra info to TRNG.

[dosu]

The metal plate screws in with 4 screws to the sanwa stick? the screws that came with my plate are too small for the stick. does anyone know the right screw size for the stick to screw together with the mounting plate? it only came with 4 screws and no nuts, and the screws just spin in the sticks hole, seems like the plate should go in the hexgonal hole. but they dont

[Locus]

The metal plate screws in with 4 screws to the sanwa stick? the screws that came with my plate are too small for the stick. does anyone know the right screw size for the stick to screw together with the mounting plate? it only came with 4 screws and no nuts, and the screws just spin in the sticks hole, seems like the plate should go in the hexgonal hole. but they dont

if its for the mounting plate then i think it should be the 4 holes closest to the shaft of the sanwa stick. the nuts should already be in base of the stick so all you would have to do is put the plate on and put in the screws. this is how it was for me when i got my stick. but also be careful, because if you strip the top of one of the screws, it becomes very difficult to get it out since there is no access to the nut. it happened to me when i decided i wasnt going to use the plate and one of the screws just wouldnt turn anymore.

[Mixah]

What is the difference with installing Sanwa parts compared to happ parts?

Having to do with the above question...

What makes the sticks different?

Which of the 2 style sticks are more responsive?

How differently do sanwa buttons need to be installed?

Whats the difference between long ans short sanwa sticks?

Is sanwa the best quality for japanese arcade parts? Like HAPP is for the USA?


i second this question

[Proverb]

Has anyone modded one of these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=8760231278&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:PIC

I'm guessing sanwa parts will fit well in them, right? BTW, Sorry if this stick has been discussed but search turned up way more results than I have time to read through.

[dosu]

Ah i just took it apart and there were no nuts in the underside of the base, thats why i thought the screws didnt fit. i guess i gotta go buy some. thanks


if its for the mounting plate then i think it should be the 4 holes closest to the shaft of the sanwa stick. the nuts should already be in base of the stick so all you would have to do is put the plate on and put in the screws. this is how it was for me when i got my stick. but also be careful, because if you strip the top of one of the screws, it becomes very difficult to get it out since there is no access to the nut. it happened to me when i decided i wasnt going to use the plate and one of the screws just wouldnt turn anymore.

[Gaijinblaze]

For a Sanwa JLF that's already mounted, what's the best way to loosen it? I tried adding some extra lubricant around the white plastic ring under the dust cover, but it didn't help. How do I remove the spring, and is it a risky procedure (like can I lose small pieces or risk putting things back in the wrong place)? I really don't want to mess up my stick.

I know removing the restrictor plate lets you take off the microswitch/PCB component but I'm afraid to go any further.

Thanks.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Gaijinblaze
Just remove the e-clip on the bottom of the joystickshaft (with small flathead screwdriver). After that you can take off the spring.

[Gaijinblaze]

Hmm, so the spring comes out through the top of the stick? Good thing I didn't start taking apart the bottom. One more thing, do I stretch or compress the spring to loosen it? Sorry but I've never done this before, I have no idea.

Thanks a lot for the help.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

The spring will come from the bottom of the stick.
Is your stick so hard to move? If you want it to loosen up you have to cut the spring a little bit...but that is at your own risk.

[archetype]

Did anyone here mod one of these SvC sticks with sanwa parts?

http://www.ncsxshop.com/cgi-bin/shop/HP2-SVC.html

If so how did you do it? Thx in advance!!!

[TheRealNeoGeo]

archetype
Here is a mod of the ASCII FT on the dreamcast, should look similar:
http://d.hatena.ne.jp/Kermitt/20060209

[archetype]

thx a lot THEREALNEOGEO!

[UrIeNaToR]

for the hrap...what is the best sanwa button to get? screw in or puch in? plus whats the millimeter to get? thanks

[Tinchu]

Some of these questions have probably been answered before but I'm still not sure. . . sooo. . .

1) What thickness Lexan should I use along with 3/4" MDF board

2) Is there a way for me to mount a Sanwa stick without using a router on the 3/4" MDF board + Lexan or is there an alternative way to do this?

3) Should I use screw-in or snap-in Sanwa buttons with my wood and lexan. Why and how please?

And I guess thats it. . . If the worst comes to worst, I may have to get hold of a router. But for the mean time, could you guys tell me if there are any possibilities? Provide links if possible please. Thanks.

[Paik4Life]

Urientator, either one will work but most people use snap-ins.

Tinchu, you should really read the thread...all those are basic questions that have been ask a whole bunch of times. Usually I would answer you anyway, but because I think it's so much more useful to read the thread I'm not going to. The joysticks threads I told you about before have the answers to most any question you will ask and ones that you would probably not even think to ask. So seriously, from a person who just got into stick-building himself, read them.

~Paik

[Tinchu]

Sorry about that. . . I've read all 24 pages of this thread already and although I have found answers I wasn't too sure. But I think I somewhat understand now. Still not sure about the Lexan thickness though. If it isn't too much, could you advise me on a thickness? I really do read through the threads. . . I've spent most of this week just planning my stick. . . I kinda want things to be perfect. . . even for a first stick. . . so I guess I wanted to really know what I was doing.

[Paik4Life]

Lexan thickness kind of depends on whether you're only mounting to the lexan or if you're using something else. Are you using the part of the wood as well? Are you going to go the was of some builders like TRNG and use a metal plate in addition? Also, it depends on if you're planning on using snap-ins or screw ins. TRNG says that snap-ins fit well in 2mm, 3mm, and 4mm (total) material thickness. Screw-ins can go up to 6mm. I think MOST people will advise you to do like a 2mm or maybe a little more sheet.

The structure of the box may also change your options. If you're just going to route just holes around the buttons, then you probably want to go with 2-4mm thickness since in that case you're not using any other material to mount the buttons.

As for a method of cutting holes some people suggest a holesaw not a router for that. A router is more used I believe to hollow out areas as opposed to accurately cut circlular holes. But again, I'm a noob too so take all my advice with a grain of salt. I'm just regurgitating what I learned from reading and what I was told directly by the likes of other experienced builders.

Lastly, screw-in and snap-ins are only different in how they are held in place and the width they can attach to. Performance-wise they are the same. Hold this helps!

~Paik

[Tinchu]

Thank you, that was a great help! Cleared things up really well for me. I'm gonna go for the screw in buttons so that I can get a greater thickness. I doubt that i'll be able to get the tools to work with metal so a metal plate isn't really an option. I have a few ideas that might work so i'll see how it goes. =)

[J-ride]

I asked this earlier in this thread, but I want to mod a DC agetec with sanwa parts, Will the bat style and the ball top sanwa both fit inside the green monster or no? I just want to know if both styles will fit so I can try them both and see which I like better. Thanks in advance.

[ParryPerson.]

Ok, sorry if these newb questions, but I'm going to make a Seimitsu stick, how do I mount this baby? And what is the mounting depth for the Seimitsu?

Sorry, I've only ever made HAPP sticks.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

ParryPerson
http://arkadesticks.com/joregn.jpg
24mm-25mm. What seimitsustick did you order?

[ParryPerson.]

I haven't ordered yet! I emailed you this morning a few times, genei.jin, remember?

I was just curious

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Oh, sorry. Yes now I know who you are, you want the Seimitsu LS-32.
If you want measurements on it go to products on my page and click on the picture of the LS-32...

[ParryPerson.]

.....


do'h!

*smacks forehead*

[Hol Horse]

Should I get snap-in or screw-in buttons to mod my CFJ HRAP stick? thanks

[ParryPerson.]

This might be a newb question, but instead of routing out a place for the jap stick, couldn't I just use thin hard wood?

How would one drill a metal cp?

[Paik4Life]

Hol Horse: I'm going to answer your question just because you read 20th. Either will work fine. But for ease and cost, snap-ins would probably be best for that mod.

~Paik

[NiteWalker]

This might be a newb question, but instead of routing out a place for the jap stick, couldn't I just use thin hard wood?

How would one drill a metal cp?
Even being thin hardwood, it's still thin and will want to split along the grain at anything thinner than 1/8".
When drilling metal just use a holesaw rated for metal. You may have to order a 30mm holesaw online though. Google it. When drilling it go slow and spray the surface with window cleaner occasionally to keep the surface cool.

[ParryPerson.]

Thanks man, I looked and found the metal rated hole saws, but you're right, I need to get a 30mm online (29mm was the closest they had, maybe i COULD work with that).

[NiteWalker]

Make sure the hole saw you get is made of high speed steel (HSS). It'll be strong enough to go through metal.

[Paik4Life]

Question, is bi-metal and HSS interchangeable? I see a lot of bi-metals hole saws.

~Paik

[OngBak]

Someone please clarify if 15/16" size hole for the japanese joystick and 1"1/8 for happ joystick?

[NiteWalker]

Question, is bi-metal and HSS interchangeable? I see a lot of bi-metals hole saws.

~Paik
As far as I know as long as the cutting edges are HSS you're good to go. I think bi metal means they use carbon steel for the body of the bit and HSS for the cutting edges. Look for the description to specify that it will cut metal.

Someone please clarify if 15/16" size hole for the japanese joystick and 1"1/8 for happ joystick?
I know for sure Happ joystick hole is 1 1/8" For sanwa I heard it's 7/8" because anything larger will allow you to see the hole whenever you press the joystick all the way in any direction. I think spiffy shoes told me that so I think it's all good.

[Paik4Life]

Thanks NiteWalker!

EDIT: Does anyone know the size of the screw and bolt that are used to secure the JLF-TP-8YT mounting plate to the joystick base? I went shopping at 3 different hardware stores including Home Depot and Lowes with no luck. I tried the smallest standard size they had which was #4. I found some 3mm bolts that looked like they fit, but no machine screws that would go into them...

I'd just like to say the US standard system is stupid. We should convert to metric and save ourselves from looking like idiots. I'm going to have to order my 30mm holesaw online now along with the screws and bolts.

~Paik

[Paik4Life]

Just to let everyone know, I think M3 metric nuts and screws should fit. Unfortunately I couldn't find any of those. The smallest I found was M4 and they were too big. I had to jerry-rig my setup by using some nylon nuts and #4 screws. I had to shave some of the nuts' sides off (that just sounds so bad) before it would fit into the hole.

~Paik

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Yup, M3 screw and nut is correct. Good you using nut with nylon in it, it sits tighter and does so even under heavy vibration (I always use that).
I thought USA is going more and more metric, is this not true? What do they teach in school?

[Green]

Yup, M3 screw and nut is correct. Good you using nut with nylon in it, it sits tighter and does so even under heavy vibration (I always use that).
I thought USA is going more and more metric, is this not true? What do they teach in school?
Ha, they've been claiming to switch over to metric for ages.

Parry, if you have access to a drill press, try one of these (note the minimum hole sizes):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7P2/qid=1141173563/sr=1-3/ref=sr_1_3/102-8953463-5984160?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=228013

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7OZ/qid=1141173563/sr=1-4/ref=sr_1_4/102-8953463-5984160?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=228013

finkle told me these are great on sheet metal.

[Paik4Life]

Yup, M3 screw and nut is correct. Good you using nut with nylon in it, it sits tighter and does so even under heavy vibration (I always use that).
I thought USA is going more and more metric, is this not true? What do they teach in school?

All I know is I went to MANY stores in the area and only one place had a selection of metric nuts and screws. Like I said, they only carried M4 at the smallest. I just had to improvise. I'm a genius : )

I actually couldn't find 30mm holesaw anywhere either. I just bought the 28.6mm one. I didn't feel like paying for shipping at some of the online stores.

~Paik

[finkle]

Ha, they've been claiming to switch over to metric for ages.

Parry, if you have access to a drill press, try one of these (note the minimum hole sizes):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7P2/qid=1141173563/sr=1-3/ref=sr_1_3/102-8953463-5984160?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=228013

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7OZ/qid=1141173563/sr=1-4/ref=sr_1_4/102-8953463-5984160?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=228013

finkle told me these are great on sheet metal.

that tool will work fine, the one I use I made and improved on the design a little for heavy duty use. for quick, cheap, consistant holes a hole saw will probably do you better for home use. starrett and lenox make great hole saws, infact a 10 dollar starrett hole saw will cut 100s or close to 1000 holes if used at the proper cutting speed and if care is used.

[DH020]

how do you install sanwa buttons into Real Arcade Pro stick??

[ParryPerson.]

What size MDF should I get? How deep should I rout out for a Seimitsu/Sanwa?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

DH020
Just pop the old ones out and pop the new ones in, it is very simple.

ParryPerson.
http://arkadesticks.com/joregn.jpg
Make it so it is 25mm over the plexi to the bottom of the ball. If you are using LS-32 then just routout the thickness of the plate because if you rout out deeper it will be to low. Sanwashaft is taller therefore it can be routed deeper in the wood for perfect fit.
If you using the LS-32 then click on the picture of it on my webpage and the measurements are all there.

[ParryPerson.]

Oh so I wouldn't even have to route out hardly at all, I see. Thanks.

[Paik4Life]

So as TRNG says for example, if you lexan/plexi is 2mm thick, then 6mm top route for Sanwa JLF. For Seitmitsu, just the depth of the mounting plate. Basically for Sanwa you want a total of 8mm to be hidden from the bottom of the plate.

~Paik

[ParryPerson.]

Ok, now, when I mount this LS-32, I just rout out the depth of the mounting plate to top mount it, what size wood do I get? these screw ins don't look that long.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

For Sanwa I always have 9mm in total. So if I am using 3mm lexan (1/8") then I would rout out 6mm of the wood. Shaftlength left is 25mm.
http://arkadesticks.com/joregn.jpg
This is with mountingplate, don`t forget that.

Also, for the LS-32, You should mount it as high as possible so rout out 2mm of the top and countersink the holes in the plate a little bit and screw it down. Or maybe you do it in another way.

[ParryPerson.]

maybe I could just counter sink the HELL out of it and hammer it in....




Just kidding. I'm getting the parts now, thanks for all the help.

[Tinchu]

Could someone explain countersinking to me fully? I know there are special counter sinking pieces for drills but is it possible to counter sink without them?

[Demon Dash]

As far as I remember (from school mind you) counter sunk screws "counter sink" them selves when you screw them in. I'm sure there's a method to actually counter sink the wood though, but it escapes me right now, sorry.

[Paik4Life]

Well if you want to countersink in wood, you can just drill hole the size of the head of the screw your using and drill it as deep (or maybe a little less since tightening the screw will make it go lower and become flush) as the head of the screw. Also if you don't already, you should drill pilot holes for your screws that are just under the size of the threads. It's much easier than trying to screw them in by hand.

I've had problem countersinking is the metal plates I used since they are 2mm plates. Other than that, countersinking is easy.

~Paik

[NiteWalker]

The best bits for countersinking are these:
countersink set (http://cgi.ebay.com/3pc-TITANIUM-COUNTERSINK-DRILL-BIT-SET-1-2-5-8-3-4_W0QQitemZ6043469846QQcategoryZ50383QQrdZ1QQcmdZV iewItem)
There are really expensive ones but these are good for the money. They work in pretty much anything. There are also some other bits called single flute countersinks that are particularly good in plastic but they're around $40 a set.

[Paik4Life]

Oooh, those would be so nice to have, especially for the metal plates, I'm working with...althought I wouldn't need all three of those...but the price is pretty cheap. I'll have to see what the price is like at local hardware stores for just one. Thanks Nite!

~Paik

[NiteWalker]

Oooh, those would be so nice to have, especially for the metal plates, I'm working with...althought I wouldn't need all three of those...but the price is pretty cheap. I'll have to see what the price is like at local hardware stores for just one. Thanks Nite!

~Paik
No prob. Make sure you get either the tin coated or the HSS types. High carbon steel won't last drilling metal.

[Tinchu]

Thanks ALOT for the info. Does drilling a pilot hole prevent splitting? Because i've been practising to drill and the woods been splitting =/

[NiteWalker]

Definitely prevents splitting. I work mostly in MDF and without pilot holes splits a plenty. Use a drill bit that's about the same size as the screw's thickness without the threads. Also don't overtighten. If you have a drill with clutch settings set it very low. This way if you keep the button pressed the clutch engages and won't turn the screw further.

[kprime911]

hello

i am currently building my first stick which happens to be a sanwa stick, from byrdo's design on his site. I was looking on himuragames.com and i was wondering which sanwa stick to buy? Do i need a mounting plate? And lastly should top mount or bottom mount the stick? Which one is easier?

Thank you and sorry for all the questions.

[Paik4Life]

kprime, hopefully your questions were answered by now but if now here goes:

You'll want a JLF-TP-8YT. That is JLF with flat mounting plate (although any mounting plate is fine as long as you know how to mount it correctly). You'll most likely need a mounting plate especially for top mounting which is what most people do and honestly is easier.


Now that that is done, I wanted to post a question of my own. I'm trying to build an Xbox stick that supports the headset. I've honestly never even tried to hack an XB because well 1) I don't own one...and 2) I prefer to do my usual PS stick and just use one of the adapters that I have. However, I'm trying to build one for a customer and he requires headset support. I don't mind learning how to do it, I just couldn't find any answers while doing a search of the joystick threads and never recall seeing a tutorial on it when I had originally read this thread and the Offical Custom Stick I and II threads. Any information on how tough this is and so forth would be appreciated. Thanks.

~Paik

[NiteWalker]

If you use a PCB that is hack friendly adding the live headset port is simply a matter of placing the PCB correctly and making the correct hole in the wood. The simpler method is to desolder the port from the PCB and resolder it with longer wires (5 I think). This way you have a bit more flexability in mounting it.
The street fighter xbox pad PCB and the SFAC joystick (the big one) come to mind. Also the Gamestar reflex.

[starboy]

Can someone point me into the direction of tutorial of the Namco mod w/ the sanwa joystick with no interchanged namco parts(IE namco stick w/ all sanwa joystick)

[starboy]

SoulCaliFreak
http://arkadesticks.com/namcomoden.htm

So what is the best way to countersink the metal? Using a countersinking drill bit? Has anyone tried any other methods to countersinking the metal plate?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

starboy
I used regular countersink drill-bit (although I must admit I could have done a better job on the Seimitsu-mod).

Seimitsu-mod (LS-32-01):
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam1.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam2.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam3.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam4.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam5.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam6.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam7.JPG

Sanwa (JLF-TP-8Y) mod:
http://arkadesticks.com/namcomoden.htm
http://arkadesticks.com/Namcosanwafinished.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/namcoback1.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/namcoback2.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Namcosanwapcbc.JPG

[DJ-VAN]

Nice pics TheRealNeoGeo :tup:. I always thought the other namco guide seemed a bit off as far as fitting the shaft inside the case- but when I googled it a while back I came across this guide you posted on another forum- great stuff:wgrin:

So the Seimitsu would require more clearance than a sanwa? I keep hearing mixed opinions about people who use them. Are they stiffer/ more responsive than sanwa? They also come with both a square and octagonal gate right with a longer shaft? I guess thats one advantage, but what is the defining difference between them? I hear the Seimitsu sticks are used in 2d fighter arcade cabinets and that Sanwa is used in the 3d ones. But the overall opinion that see is that the Sanwa JLF+octogonal gate= pwnage over the Seimitsu

[Paik4Life]

Sanwa does require a tiny bit more clearance, but nothing major. People get confused about the adjustable restrictor that the Seimitsus have. They can be switched from 2-way, 4-way, or 8-way action. That does NOT mean they have an octogon restrictor. That that means is the 2-way you can only move the joystick and hit the up and down levered switches. 4-way means you can hit up, down, left, and right but NO diagonals (e.g. df or ub), and 8-way is a standard square gate.

Seimtisus have shorter throws. Again many people don't understand what this means. This just means the joystick doesn't move as far in any direction and thus activates the microswitches with less movement in any direction. Some people like this, some people don't. They are a bit stiffer. As far as responsiveness/performance, I don't know exactly since I'm not sure if the microswitches they use are different aside from Seimitsu's being levered microswitches. The shaft is shorter than a Sanwa.

The 2D and 3D thing is something I hear a lot about but can't say for sure. I think it's more a rumor that started from one person saying so and just grew into a "fact." But it could also be true. I've never been to Japan so I couldn't say.

~Paik

[DJ-VAN]

So they don't have octogon restrictors for Seimtisu sticks? Meh I'll stick with the JLF sticks I got then. I don't like the fact that the levered switches get bent after a while...

The mojority of the reviews or opinions that I read is that Sanwa is better. I wanted to do an all Seimtisu sitck, but do they make sticks without the levered switches? If not then I'll just get the clear buttons that Seimtisu makes and use a Sanwa JLF with the octogon restrictor.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

DJ-VAN
Seimitsu produce joysticks with the 5-pin connector, yes.
Also, my favorite is Sanwa :).

[DJ-VAN]

Nah I meant that the Seimitsu sticks use micro switches that use a metal leaf spring to hit the micro switch which eventually get bent after a while.

But yeah I agree. I'm very happy with my sanwa sticks :wgrin:

[starboy]

starboy
I used regular countersink drill-bit (although I must admit I could have done a better job on the Seimitsu-mod).

Seimitsu-mod (LS-32-01):
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam1.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam2.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam3.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam4.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam5.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam6.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam7.JPG


I showed a buddy of mine these pics, and he said that i had to drill a hole in the bottom metal plate. Is that true? It doesn't look like it in the pics, but he says there is a hole under the "ls-32-01" sticker.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

starboy
It is indeed a hole (30mm) under the sticker:
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam8.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam9.JPG

If you look closer to this pic:
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam6.JPG
you see I had to shave off a little bit from the bottom of the shaft to. But when the mod is done it is a very nice feeling when playing with it, it sits in perfect hight to :).

[starboy]

starboy
It is indeed a hole (30mm) under the sticker:
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam8.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam9.JPG

If you look closer to this pic:
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam6.JPG
you see I had to shave off a little bit from the bottom of the shaft to. But when the mod is done it is a very nice feeling when playing with it, it sits in perfect hight to :).

Right, thank you for your information, it's very greatly appreciated. I just got a namco stick, and I don't know if i'm just going to sell it w/ all namco(stock) parts, or keep it and mod it.

[Shifty Nevers]

i've got a few noob questions:

is this (JLF-TP-8YT) the best sanwa stick i can get??
should an octagonal gate be easy to obtain??
can convex competition(us) buttons work with a sanwa stick??
what are the best sanwa buttons?? preferably with a click.

where can i buy it all??

[JetEnduro]

TheRealNeoGeo can get all of that stuff for you no problem. Visit www.akihabarashop.com

[Paik4Life]

TheRealNeoGeo can get all of that except US parts. He only supplies Sanwa and Seimitsu parts. To answer your questions:

1) JLF is the flagship stick of Sanwa. Probably the most popular and common overall.
2) Octogon gate is easy to get from TRNG and easy to install (only available for JLF or Flash1)
3) You can mix and match any arcade parts.
4) The very best Sanwa buttons are OBSN-30RG (or OBSF-30RG). I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "click." If you mean like US buttons, Sanwas don't click. They are smooth and very sensitive. A minor brush of the button activates it unlike US buttons that you have to depress and "click" for them to register.

~Paik

[Shifty Nevers]

thanks guys, this helps alot.

[vkuwabara]

The Real NeoGeo, really nice pics!
I got some questions:
1- where did you get this pic, the "high speed response", I want that! :)
http://arkadesticks.com/namcoback2.JPG

2- did you use glue to fix the cables on the pcb?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

vkuwabara
1. Those are custom made stickers. I have only 2 left now...

2. No, first I solder then I use hot glue so it stays firm whatever happens.

[NoAffinity]

This is my latest project, prepared for Evo West. The Nakiworld case was completely gutted, which in and of itself took about an hour...but was well worth it, as the original hardware is absolute junk. The design of this unit is not all bad, though, and one nice thing is once the on/off/battery unit is removed, there remains a small hole perfect for passing the connector cord through. Once this was accomplished, the original stick's mounting had to be cut, and the remaining plastic nubs sanded flush with the bottom of the control panel. I then removed the Sanwa stick's metal mounting plate and drilled the control panel to match the Sanwa mounting. This control panel consists of two platic pieces. The top-most piece needs to be completely drilled through. I chamfered the bottom-most piece, to accomodate the slight convexity of the Sanwa mounting screws. I hacked a PS1 PCB (no version marking or anything...I think it is pre-PS2), which turned out to be less work than most web sites indicate (just scrape the contact material off the board and solder to the underlying metal). Snap-in Sanwas were used for attack buttons, screw-in Sanwas were used for the start and select buttons and happ plugs were used for the unused holes (just cuz I had extras lying around). A couple motherboard washers and a hard drive mounting screw mounted the PCB nicely, on an existing mount. I referenced the Hori stick control panel (which denotes what buttons are what; square, circle, X, triangle, R1 and R2 are used and are plug 'n' play with all SF games), to get the button layout right. This thing works flawlessly. :)
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g181/noaffinity/Nakiworld_hacked_interior.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g181/noaffinity/Nakiworld_hacked_exterior.jpg

[NiteWalker]

Awesome mod. I'm glad to see someone didn't buy into the "must have a dual shock" in it.

[SNAAAAKE]

anyone have an octagonal gate for sanwa JLF for sale or know where I can order one ??

[Phobos]

[QUOTE=TheRealNeoGeo]

Sanwa (JLF-TP-8Y) mod:

http://arkadesticks.com/namcoback1.JPG

TheRealNeoGeo, do you have a closer pic of this? thanks
(use for my agetec hack)

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Phobos
Not of that picture but I have .jpg and .psd of what I printed out. Here you go:
http://arkadesticks.com/namcojlf.jpg
http://arkadesticks.com/namcojlf.psd

/Per

[Phobos]

Thanks alot Real.

[Larry S.]

ey.. i need a new stick.. i'm likin' sanwa's way too much . i'm not the type to do it myself . my ideal stick is like a byrdo.org stick with plastic instead of metal or wood. so i can ding it around and not feel bad. i've had like 5 big mas sticks. so i'm tired of lugging anything around. help a brotha out? like tell me if any of you guys can do that for me and toss me a price. SALOMONGB@yahoo.com -L.

[MegamanDS]

Is the green agetec sanwa? if so, this is my first project i am about to atempt.

i want to add a ps2 port to my agetec so i can use it for both DC and PS2. can anyone explain to me how or link me to any resources?

[50-fiftytrap]

This is my 1st project also, and I don't really understand any of what I've read so far in this thread can any one help me out? I'm not trying to mod anything I'm trying to build from scratch. What type of wood is best. I don't even understand how you guys make an inside to a stick. I'm teh suck at shop type stuff been out of High School to long.

[hwotk]

hi i bought few days ago an original tekken tag stick by hori
and i just wanted to ask is it possible to put in a sanwa buttons ?

i'v measured the size of the buttons in the stick and they are 24 mm

[DH020]

hi i bought few days ago an original tekken tag stick by hori
and i just wanted to ask is it possible to put in a sanwa buttons ?

i'v measured the size of the buttons in the stick and they are 24 mm

You can but your have to use Dremmel tool to make the holes 30mm in ur tk stick to fit the sanwa buttons.

[hwotk]

what about Sanwa OBSN-24 ?? they are 24 mm i gues ?? will thy fit in ?

[PgruvR]

T5 stick mod question:
Can I use sanwa LB30N instead of JLF joystick?

[J-ride]

Is the green agetec sanwa? if so, this is my first project i am about to atempt.

i want to add a ps2 port to my agetec so i can use it for both DC and PS2. can anyone explain to me how or link me to any resources?

In my experience, I have found trying to wire two controllers together usually results in screwy results and I don't think it is really worth doing. Just wire a playstation, buy an ems total control plus with joystick mode and you can get a converter for anything else. I wire official psone pre-dualshocks, because they are easy to wire, and work with every converter I have ever used except ones for the gamecube (yeah, who cares). The other reason is that they have an extremely long cord, long cord FTW.


On the mod: Its a pretty simple mod, here is what you have to do:

1. Dremel out the button holes because the agetec holes are like 29mm and not 30. best way to do this is put the button base on the hole trace around it with a magic marker and dremel away. Also be careful not to hold the dremel in one place too long because the metal will get to hot and burn the plastic covering.

2. grind down the mounting clips and brackets that held the joystick on, then (assuming you removed the metal plate to open up the metal holes, drill four holes in the plastic to mount the joystick.

3. Wire it and you are good to go.

what about Sanwa OBSN-24 ?? they are 24 mm i gues ?? will thy fit in ?

Those are start buttons and way too small, the button holes are probably like 29mm just like the agetec.


Question: Does anyone know a good place to buy or find japanese style joysticks for cheap? Even used? I can't hardly find them on ebay or anywhere else nowadays. Thanks.

[EastX]

J-ride, Ponyboy sells Sanwa JLFs for $19, and his shipping is low too.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=36770.0

[Makoto Scrub]

I'll be getting a Namco stick in a few days and I wanted to know if getting Sanwa buttons would be a good replacement for the ones on the stick.

[J-ride]

Oops, I should have clarified my question.

Does anyone know a good place or model to buy the hori/japanese style cases or whole joysticks or easy to mod, easy to find models, Agetecs are becoming scarce these days!

[NiteWalker]

I'll be getting a Namco stick in a few days and I wanted to know if getting Sanwa buttons would be a good replacement for the ones on the stick.

The stock buttons and stick on the namcos are very decent, but they're definitely not sanwas.

Oops, I should have clarified my question.

Does anyone know a good place or model to buy the hori/japanese style cases or whole joysticks or easy to mod, easy to find models, Agetecs are becoming scarce these days!

Most are out of production so your best bet is ebay or the trading forum here.

[Paik4Life]

Oops, I should have clarified my question.

Does anyone know a good place or model to buy the hori/japanese style cases or whole joysticks or easy to mod, easy to find models, Agetecs are becoming scarce these days!

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?t=11166

Some Agetecs that might be fairly cheap. I'm selling Agetecs in my sale thread as well, but there is only one left that isn't already modded.

~Paik

[Makoto Scrub]

The stock buttons and stick on the namcos are very decent, but they're definitely not sanwas.
But would you recommend me getting it modded to get them replaced with sanwas? Also what kind of gate does the Namco stick have?

[NiteWalker]

But would you recommend me getting it modded to get them replaced with sanwas? Also what kind of gate does the Namco stick have?

The namco stick is a bit harder to mod than say an agetec, but worth it from what I hear.

Stock namco stick=square gate.

[Makoto Scrub]

This must be getting annoying for you guys but this is the last question for a bit. I play 2D fighters and 3D fighters and wanted to know what kind of buttons/stick would be right to support both of these games if thats possible. (i.e: hori/sanwa buttons and square/8way gate)

[Paik4Life]

It's a matter of preference. I can play both 3D and 2D fine on a stock Sanwa, but some people just can't. They either prefer an LS-32 (or other Seimitsu sticks) or an octagon gate. If you mod with a Sanwa or Seimitsu joystick, you have a decent amount of work to do and the Sanwa JLF wouldn't be mounted at the correct height (it would be long). The Seimitsu LS-32 (01) would require you to make a hole in the bottom metal plate.

I've of the mind that if you can't play on any given decent stick then you just shouldn't be playing at all. But I'm an asshole. : )

As for buttons, Sanwa is clearly the better choice. The nice thing is you don't have to do mod on the buttons holes for the Namco.

~Paik

[Makoto Scrub]

Paik4Life: With what you said it sounds like I'm gonna get the Sanwa buttons and think about changing the gate.

[Cynnik]

not sure if this was posted before in the previous pages but im too lazy to look through 28pages so..... any info on modding a t4 hori? I want to mod my t4 hori w/ a sanwa but the thing is i want to keep the original artwork so is there a way to mod it without peeling off the artwork or do i have to take it off in order to mount it? i know there isnt enough clearance if i just screw it on like the t5 hori so how does everyone do this mod? thanks.

[pherai]

Hey I've been modding a sfac stick with sanwa buttons (had to make a new case obviously). I've been thinking about going with a sanwa bat top stick as well. Where can I got about getting a bat top to match my green sanwa buttons and will I have any problems with voltage or any of that nonsense :confused:

[Paik4Life]

A bat top is an attachment made by Sanwa that is compatibile with almost all Sanwa or Seimitsu sticks. It only comes in white, black, blue, and red. Since it's an attachment, that replaces the balltop, there will be no problems associated specifically with it.

~Paik

[pherai]

no green, nooooo! anyway, so all it raelly is is a normal sanwa stick with a bat top to screw on instead of the ball?

[Paik4Life]

Yes

~Paik

[N_paul]

Is it possible to take off the metal plate that comes with Sanwa's? I have one of the Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT sticks that come with a flat metal plate and am trying to mod a US Tekken 5 Hori with Sanwa parts, but can't fit the stick on (because of the metal plate). I hadn't planned on using a premade box for this project, btu when Tekken5 sticks were on sale I just had to take advantage.

[Paik4Life]

Yes, just unscrew it...Use a philips head...

~Paik

[N_paul]

Ok, I ended up drilling them out because I stripped the screws. Turns out that they have locktite on the nuts on the screw.

[jugoso]

I have mod a Soul Calibur II Hori Stick with a sanwa joystick and seimitsu buttons. I wondered how could I change the artwork, since it's like impressed on the plastic layer, and I can't figure out how to change it.

Thanks in advance

[Capn Spanky]

http://www.ebgames.com/product.asp?product%5Fid=801678
Anyone know if that can be sanwa modded?

[Taiki]

*holds an envelope to forehead*

No.

*Opens envelope*

No.

[Capn Spanky]

*holds an envelope to forehead*

No.

*Opens envelope*

No.

Lol, thought so.

[kekken3]

I have mod a Soul Calibur II Hori Stick with a sanwa joystick and seimitsu buttons. I wondered how could I change the artwork, since it's like impressed on the plastic layer, and I can't figure out how to change it.

Thanks in advance
I suggest you get a piece of plexi/lexan and cut it to the exact shape of the front panel so it completely covers it (everything but the lowered corners). Then just drill the holes for all the buttons and the joystick. Print an artwork, put the plexi over it and the 6 action buttons will keep it fixed without need for screws. At least that's what I did. A rather thick plate also helped me since the Sanwa shaft was a bit too long initially, but now, with 3 mm of plexi it feels much better. :)
Here's a pic of it taken with a crappy phone camera:
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/8950/11012007si1.th.jpg (http://img69.imageshack.us/my.php?image=11012007si1.jpg)

edit: I've also seen people print art on stickers and put it over the original art. It is slick, but without some plastification the sticker tends to wear off and eventually turns out quite ugly + it's not easily replaceable. I'm happy with the method I used. ;)

[DarkDragon]

Im going to be putting some sanwa buttons into my t5 hori but Im a little stuck:
I plan on not soldering the buttons back on the pcb and I want to use quick disconnects and wires.

My question(s) is, is it easy for a person just getting into modding to connect the wires to the pcb? Is the a guide or one similar for this?

[NiteWalker]

kekken3: That's an awesome mod on the hori case. I like how start and select are recessed even further. Sweet. Now I'm glad I didn't finish my hori mod yet.

[jugoso]

kekken3: How about both stickers and plexi?

ps= great mod!

[MyNameIsPaullee]

Ok I have a sanwa stick and all the switches inside work but its having alot of trouble reading diagonals, is this a problem with the part of the stick thats hitting the switches? if so how can I replace it?

[NiteWalker]

If it's a square gate you just have to get used to it. That's the way they are. Alternatively you can buy an octagonal gate from ponyboy.

[kekken3]

Thanks guys, I'm glad you like it.
It would probably still look nicer with start and select back to their previous height and I planned to correct that initially, but it would have required some more work and since some people complained about accidentally pressing the start button, the lazy part of me happily said "yeah, now it's even more functional" and I left it that way. ;)

Jugoso: this way there is really no need at all for the art to be on a sticker. Button holes and plexi on top keep it firm, flat and protected. Inkjet photo paper is all you need for the best result.

[MyNameIsPaullee]

If it's a square gate you just have to get used to it. That's the way they are. Alternatively you can buy an octagonal gate from ponyboy.

If you were talking to me its not because the gates are weird I use ONLY square gates and nothing else so I'm used to them plenty. I think it may be that the corners are wearing down too much and may be causing a gap or grey area where the stick is outside of the microswitches range. My square gate is in fact starting to look alot more round than it used to LOL

[NiteWalker]

I have some extra square gates if you need one.

[jugoso]

got it, kekken ;)

thx

[Alexx]

I know that the naki world stick can be modded with sanwa buttons. My question is what size I should use--24mm or 30mm? By the way, I'v heard the screw in work well but does anyone know if the snap ons work?

[FecalPenance]

hey i'm trying to replace my hrap's stock buttons with happ competition buttons->

http://happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/5896xxl.htm

but the prongs on the happ buttons don't match the connectors from the shitty stock buttons (a bit larger), so should i just splice the wires and solder them on? also the happs have 3 prongs, can i ignore one :S

[EVM]

Guys, I am going to mod my HRAP3. What I am going to do is to remove all of the buttons except for 3. I assume the buttons have teeth that go into holes in the PCB? So all I need to do is remove the buttons and the stick will work fine?

Thanks for your help.

[NewGen]

anyone know where i can get sanwa buttons and a joystick for as back up/replacement parts for the VFHG stick?

[Rickstah]

FecalPenance - I've never dealt with Happ buttons, but you could splice and solder the wires to the buttons as long as you know which wire is which. I'm pretty sure it matters which wire connects to which prong. And on the 3 prong issue, again, I'm not sure which prong it is because I've never installed Happ buttons before, but one of the prongs you shouldn't solder on too (and if I remember correctly, it's the prong closest to the actual microswitch that you want to ignore, the other one is the button connection, and the prong on the side is the ground).

EVM - Yes the stick should work fine as long as it doesn't disconnect the ground connection to the stick (but I'm pretty positive it won't).

NewGen - Akihabara is currently taking orders, and I think Ponyboy is still taking orders as well.

[leaveal]

FecalPenance:

there should be labels on the prongs. two of them should read "NC" and "NO", and the other one is the ground.

NO stands for Normally Open. this means the ground and main wires are not connected until you press the button. this is the one you'll want to solder to. NC stands for Normally Closed, which means ground and main are connected while the button isn't pressed, and a button press separates the connection.

[Taiki]

WHY!?

But beyond that, the connections on the happ buttons are .187, and the connections on the Hori are .110.

[Taoku]

I just bought a T5 stick, but the stick feels kinda loose and I want to change it. Would a Sanwa JLF-TP-8T be compatible?

Note:I'm new to the whole modding scene,but is there any thread or method of modding specifically the US Tekken 5 stick?

[urth]

I just bought a T5 stick, but the stick feels kinda loose and I want to change it. Would a Sanwa JLF-TP-8T be compatible?

Note:I'm new to the whole modding scene,but is there any thread or method of modding specifically the US Tekken 5 stick?

check this thread out:
http://himuragames.suddenlaunch3.com/index.cgi?board=techinfo&action=display&num=1109887687

[Taoku]

check this thread out:
http://himuragames.suddenlaunch3.com/index.cgi?board=techinfo&action=display&num=1109887687

The pictures are no longer available.Where else can I find them (if I can)?

[surewhyyoucan]

I'm looking into modding my Hori Fighting Stick 3 with Sanwa parts. Are they compatible? Haven't been able to find anything for this particular stick. Anyone else find any references?

[P. Gorath]

are there any sanwa/seimitsu mods for the old psx Namco Arcade Stick that don't require sawing stuff off to make it fit?

[leaveal]

there's one that involves shaft swapping, but it doesn't work that well from my personal experience.

[armad1ll0]

It's been forever since I've dropped off the scene and stopped building joysticks and turned my attention to Guitar controllers instead.

It's nice to see how so many have picked up from where I started this tread to help fools along the way.

Great job and keep on modding. Things never come exactly the way you'd like it.

[Toodles]

Umm, didn't you run off with a bunch of people's money?

[deadfrog]

*** PLEASE HELP ME!! ***

I'm currently modding my HRAP2, following TingBoy's guide (http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=132472). It is my very first mod. I've been able to disassemble, reassemble, replace the stock buttons with Sanwa snap-ins... no problem.

While I have it open, I figured I'd swap the original Sanwa stick with a fresh one just for fun. The new stick I have on hand is a JLF-TP-8Y, identical to the original minus the shaft cover and mounting plate. I removed the mounting plate (and thus the stick attached to it) from the control panel.

When I tried to take the mounting plate off of the stick, the screws started to strip.

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/4352/screwsbi8.th.png (http://img211.imageshack.us/my.php?image=screwsbi8.png)

Out of the four, one is fine, one feels like it's going to strip, one has started to strip, and one is badly stripped. The mounting plate is definitely still attached but it's a little loose. The screws are flush with the plate so I can't use pliers on them.

What should I do?

Are these mounting plates not supposed to come off? Was I just really unlucky? Are the screws used some bizarre proprietary type or can I get more of these at a hardware store? Is the mounting plate included in the HRAP2 the same as the one on a JLF-TP-8YT? I know anything can be fixed but I can't stop myself from freaking out aaaaah good grief my heart won't stop beating so quickly.

[deadfrog]

Is it an insane plan to try and score the tops enough to fit a flat-head screwdriver?

[Green]

They're removable.

You can do anything you like to get them out; you can't really make it worse. Did you use the right size head?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

deadfrog
If they are destroyed then only option I think is to drill them, that is what I did first time I messed up with a screw ^_^.
Also, if you are a "noob" and want a mountingplate with your joystick it is better to order it separately.

[deadfrog]

Thanks so much for the answers, guys. I've tried every vice and delight I can think of and I still haven't been able to calm myself down. :looney:

Per, I have a beginner's question: how exactly would I go about "drilling them out?" Am I trying to make a new hole to extract it from or something? Am I trying to obliterate the screw entirely, leaving a new hole where it once was?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

deadfrog
You could either drill it first with a very tiny drillbit and try to force in one off these (hexagon bits):
http://www.scandinavianbowhunting.com/verktyg/27585%20insex%20fril.gif

Or you could just drill it untill it is destroyed and falls out.

[deadfrog]

just drill it untill it is destroyed and falls out.This is the most :rock: sentence of all time.

I'm nervous I'll botch up the plastic stick housing, but I can't imagine I have any other options! I'll definitely give it a try.

Am I correct in saying that there's nothing special or unique about those screws? I'm going to be able to buy four more in any old hardware store, right?

[SNAAAAKE]

can someone post the pin out for sanwa stick ? I am working on a friends sanwa but I cant find the harness that came with it. I will just solder it directly on the pin. thanks in advance

[Green]

ftp://shoryuken.voiea.net/shoryuken.voiea.net/uploads/useful%20instructional%20stuff/stickbuilding/sanwa_joystick/sanwakopplingen.JPG

ftp://shoryuken.voiea.net/shoryuken.voiea.net/uploads/useful%20instructional%20stuff/stickbuilding/sanwa_joystick/SANWAwiringguide.jpg

user/pass shoryuken/capcom

[SNAAAAKE]

thanks:clap:

[Green]

You should have a digital multimeter for this kind of work. Makes figuring the pin-out very easy.

[JohnnyHazardous]

The pictures are no longer available.Where else can I find them (if I can)?

Yeah I'm looking for someone who has the pictures also...

No one replied to this yet have they?

[red*star]

is it possible to use sanwa snap ins in wood plates about 1cm thick? it says they go only till 4 mm, but it doesnt seem like they will fall out if i use thicker material.

[NiteWalker]

can someone post the pin out for sanwa stick ? I am working on a friends sanwa but I cant find the harness that came with it. I will just solder it directly on the pin. thanks in advance


http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Misc%20Pics/th_sanwakopplingen.jpg (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Misc%20Pics/sanwakopplingen.jpg)

[DVD:madZ]

I want to mod my t5 stick but I'm not quite sure how to go about it; any reccomendations on which parts to use? What the differneces are? Things like that, I guess.

[TingBoy]

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=118289

For any other questions, just go through the essential thread. It should answer all your questions.

[Kyokuji]

I just bought a Hori EX2 and I'm not too comfortable with the ball top (used HAPP sticks my whole life). I'm thinking of swapping it out with a bat top, and I saw that Lizard Lick sells them for $5. I've got no modding experience, so how would I go about doing this? Would I have to destroy the old ball top or would it just sort of snap off?

[deadfrog]

I just bought a Hori EX2 and I'm not too comfortable with the ball top (used HAPP sticks my whole life). I'm thinking of swapping it out with a bat top, and I saw that Lizard Lick sells them for $5. I've got no modding experience, so how would I go about doing this? Would I have to destroy the old ball top or would it just sort of snap off?

Euhh, this will seem silly to you if you either know more or less about modding than I do... and if you know as much as me then it will probably be of no use to you anyway. :rofl:

Ball tops are screwed onto the metal stick shaft. If you open up the EX2's bottom, there should be a notch for a screwdriver on the bottom of the shaft, which you can use to prevent the shaft from turning while you twist the ball off. Once that's done, you should be able to twist the bat top onto the shaft. Please note that the Hori shaft is probably the same thickness as Sanwa's JLF shaft. Sanwa bat tops are made for their wider JLW shafts, so you may need a "Sanwa Joystick Adapter" from Lizard Lick as well to fit it on properly.

If you were planning to replace the whole stick, you'll have to... well, follow instructions for that. *sheepish grin*

[Kyokuji]

Ah, thanks for telling me about the adapter. Just ordered one as well. I dunno, ball tops just don't feel right to me. You have to use your thumb more and your movements can be much smaller, but they have to be much more precise.

[MidgetT]

I hate to raise an old thread, but I was wondering how difficult it is to swap out a square gate on a sanwa JLF for an octagonal one. Is it just a matter of popping off the old gate and sticking on a new one or is it more complicated than that? Sorry if this has been answered before, but I didn't find anything searching this thread.

[TingBoy]

I hate to raise an old thread, but I was wondering how difficult it is to swap out a square gate on a sanwa JLF for an octagonal one. Is it just a matter of popping off the old gate and sticking on a new one or is it more complicated than that? Sorry if this has been answered before, but I didn't find anything searching this thread.

Yessir. It's as easy as 1, 2.....no 3. Pop off the old gate, pop on the new.

[Serpentine]

Hi guys.

Im currently modding my Mayflash stick with a JLF. I was wondering if connecting it to the PCB would involve simply unsoldering the wires off the stock stick and soldering them back onto the PCB of the JLF. Is that all or is there some more to it?

[Tetsuosan]

Hi guys.

Im currently modding my Mayflash stick with a JLF. I was wondering if connecting it to the PCB would involve simply unsoldering the wires off the stock stick and soldering them back onto the PCB of the JLF. Is that all or is there some more to it?

You have to make sure that the board is a common ground board. If not you will have to either a( cut the traces on the JLF pcb so that you can solder directly to the switches, or what I recommend b( getting another pcb like a ps1 ds controller and using that.

[Serpentine]

You have to make sure that the board is a common ground board. If not you will have to either a( cut the traces on the JLF pcb so that you can solder directly to the switches, or what I recommend b( getting another pcb like a ps1 ds controller and using that.

Right and how would I go about doing that? Sorry for these questions but this is my first mod and I know close to nothing about electronics