street fighter anniversary edition arcade stick guts pics

[lazydel]

i havent done measurements but it appears that the mounting holes for the stick are standard fair. appears moddable.

[Major]

What kind of gate is it?

[lazydel]

one more pic

[JumpsuitJesse]

Well, looks like the wires are quick disconnects and thats a good thing.

[lw3]

The stick has out dated leaf switches :tdown:

[SpiffyShoes]

Darn them Bao-lian's (http://www.bao-lian.com/english/products/product.asp?sort=06%D2%A1%B8%CB&name=rocker&title=Rocker) and their cheap china clone parts.

:china: :china: :china: :china: :china: :china: :china: :china:

[N-Ken]

What kind of gate is it?


It's an AMERICAN STICK dummy, no fucking gate. Jesus if there is one thing I hate about the advent of J-sticks it's "What kind of gate is it?". No you know what, take it back even farther, fuck the octagonal restrictor period.

[armad1ll0]

actually N-Ken you are totally wrong and SpiffyS is totally correct. It may look like an AMERICAN STICK, but it's no more american than an X-arcade joystick. Oh and even though Happs are considered american, the competitions are made by iL "industries Lorenzo" of Spain but Happ liscenses them as well as the buttons.

Those parts are Bao-Lian of china. It's a round shaped gate and the stick is similar to what you got in an X-arcade. X-a got special parts ordered that had their logo on there instead of the BL logos. The buttons are the cheaper type similar to the old RO buttons in the earlier sticks.

The buttons basically cost like $.10 each and that's where they do their cost savings. The X-A buttons are also BL and they cost about $.20 each from BL.

[Major]

It's an AMERICAN STICK dummy, no fucking gate. Jesus if there is one thing I hate about the advent of J-sticks it's "What kind of gate is it?". No you know what, take it back even farther, fuck the octagonal restrictor period.

Now thats the great Hardware Technical Support I like to hear!!! :tup:


Round gate, basically meaning no restriction then...

[Ni8wing]

Can u take out the joystick or is it glued on? Because I don't see any bolts locking in the joystick from the outside. Can you change the buttons also or are they glued on too? Thanks.

[SpiffyShoes]

Yes you could take the joystick and buttons out and replace them with Happ parts. The reason you don't see any bolts on the joystick from the top side is because they are counter sunk under the plexi and artwork. You can see them though from the pic of the inside that lazydel posted.

[N-Ken]

actually N-Ken you are totally wrong and SpiffyS is totally correct. It may look like an AMERICAN STICK, but it's no more american than an X-arcade joystick. Oh and even though Happs are considered american, the competitions are made by iL "industries Lorenzo" of Spain but Happ liscenses them as well as the buttons.

Those parts are Bao-Lian of china. It's a round shaped gate and the stick is similar to what you got in an X-arcade. X-a got special parts ordered that had their logo on there instead of the BL logos. The buttons are the cheaper type similar to the old RO buttons in the earlier sticks.

The buttons basically cost like $.10 each and that's where they do their cost savings. The X-A buttons are also BL and they cost about $20 each from BL.

Does it really matter where it was made? I wasn't talking about WHERE it was manufactured, its still US style much moreso than J style, it's using the leafswitches AND it doesn't have a restrictor, that was my point in the 1st place. So you are wrong and I am not.
:tup:

Armad dont say shit when you're entire post revolves around semantics that the original post wasn't even referring to.

[armad1ll0]

WELL...

What I draw from SS's post is that he's disapointed that they chose to use the inferior Cloned China parts instead of real Happ parts.

The fact is that there's always some sort of gate. The Super and P360 have no gate so the "cut out" acts as the "gate" and happens to be round. Ultimates and Competitions have the square actuator that hits at more angles so it's more of a square gate. It's less obvious than the Japanese sticks where the's a true gate that restricts their smaller actuator.

If it's important to someone what the gate is, then let them ask instead of calling names and being immature. This is a message board so calling someone "stupid" really has no place. Of course there are different levels of ignorance all around and there's no point to feel more superior just cause someone's asking a more simple question. I think that this was moreso my point.

just my $.02... and I'm done.

[Shin Ace]

I'm going to back up N-Ken and say that american sticks don't have gates, they have actuators instead. Put a square actuator on a Super, and you get a square feel. Since you consider the housing to be the gate, I just got a sqaure feel out of a round gate and square actuator.

I also think the word gate is abused.

The stick does not have leaf switches. Those are microswitches, with actuators.

And yes, they used non-insulated disconnects and covered them in shrink tubing. Swapping parts should be a joke.

[coN]

Shin Ace took the words i was gonna use, but hes right about american sticks not having gates and the leaf switches.

THESE (http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/leafs.jpg) are leaf switches.

I also completely agree the word gate is abused.

[powerincarnate]

While I don't know no where near as much as some of you, I must say that I agree with the priciples behind Armad's comment in that not everyone is totally well up to date with arcade parts. Quite frankly I was researching for an arcade stick and really like the real arcade pro and thus also the CFJ stick but they were expensive with shipping and customs so i was waiting to see how good this SFA stick was. I could see myself, wondering how the joystick was compared to the square found in the japanese sticks. And I could easily see my self use the term gate since that is what I see others use. I have seen some of the videos/website that tells you about the differences but not everyone has. So is it that hard to simply respond in a more nicer way to someone trying to learn. If not then simply don't respond and hopefully someone else will. After all this is a forum, and yelling, cursing really goes no where since we probably will never meet you face to face. and Since forums are suppose to be where people talk and ask questions about things, it shouldn't be a great surprise when you see a more simple question. it is a Tech SUPPORT forum after all, no different than someone going to compusa tech support, Knows very little about computers and ask a stupid question that probaly doesn't have anything to do with the problem that is affecting his computer.

[ThyAllMighty]

Um, nuts to the word "gate" and semantics. You have negative vibes N-Ken, chill out. If I bought this stick stock, is the stick good? Buttons? What are the respective parts comparable too?

[KnownasWolf]

So will you ruin the art work if you try to replace the stick with a comp one? And is there a possibility to wiring a 360?

[SpiffyShoes]

No you wouldn't ruin the artwork, and I don't see any reason why there would be a problem wiring up a P360 to it. It should be fairly easy.

[armad1ll0]

as far as the parts.

Joystick = Bao Lien clone of a Happ Super = X-Arcade (which they build for)
Buttons = Soft Japanese style switches w/ crappy tops = RedOctane Old Style buttons

[Shazay]

Well, if I swap the joystick and buttons, would the stick be decent then? (I don't know much about joysticks).

I work at the arcade, so I can probably get a competition* joystick (HAPP) for free. Not sure about buttons though... yet.

[SpiffyShoes]

I'd think it would be pretty decent if you swapped out the parts. I haven't heard any one reporting having problems with converters or lag yet but the stick did just come out so you never know.

[Rico!]

How does the stick play out of the box?

[lazydel]

How does the stick play out of the box?

I like the stick. It requires less throw to work than my competition stick, the buttons im not so hot about, but they work well. and the cord is short i put a review up also.

[AiRiC]

well does anyone have a pic of the cord and how long it is exactly.... and can someone tell me since I'm not familiar with sticks and such explain the differences of disadvantages of not having haps parts,no gate and whatever else its missing

[SpiffyShoes]

Happ Arcade parts you will find in actual arcade. The Disadvantage to not having them is that your stick won't feel like the ones you'd find in the arcades because the ones in the arcades are Happ brand. All joysticks have a gate so don't worry it's not missing one.

[frogg609]

so if i bought this stick, and wanted to replace the buttons and joystick (i don't know if the microswitches would need to be replaced also) but what exactly would I need?

I am guessing I would need the following:

-joystick

-buttons

-not sure about anything else. also, how hard would the installation be?

[SpiffyShoes]

-joystick
-buttons
-Screwdriver
-Wire Stripper
-(Crimping Tool, and QuickDisconects) or (Soldering Iron, and Rosin Core
Solder)

I'm not sure about the two start and select buttons. From the pictures they look smaller that the rest of the buttons. You might have to do some enlarging of the holes inorder to get some Happ buttons to fit in. In which case you could just use a File.

[frogg609]

at this point i'm not too worried about the select and start buttons. if i don't have true arcade feel on them, that isn't such a big deal.

thanks for the input though.

[N64FanBoy]

Since it already has quick disconnects on it, you may not need any tools to swap parts.

[SpiffyShoes]

Yeah but the Quick Connects on the buttons tend to be the smaller ones that you'd want to use for sanwa buttons. I don't think they are the right size for Happ buttons. The ones on the joystick however are the right size so you wouldn't need to swap them out for new Quick Connects.

[frogg609]

well I got the stick tonight (took a while, most stores near philly didn't have it or were sold out). I like it, but am excited to get some happs buttons and a happs joystick and put them in it and really take it to town.

I'm going to be buying the following:

8 Happ Competition pushbuttons

1 Happ Competition joystick.

Before I go ahead and place this order, will I need anything else? I am only asking as because I've never done anything like this before, and want to make sure I am not forgetting something.

thanks

[lazydel]

well I got the stick tonight (took a while, most stores near philly didn't have it or were sold out). I like it, but am excited to get some happs buttons and a happs joystick and put them in it and really take it to town.

I'm going to be buying the following:

8 Happ Competition pushbuttons

1 Happ Competition joystick.

Before I go ahead and place this order, will I need anything else? I am only asking as because I've never done anything like this before, and want to make sure I am not forgetting something.

thanks


sounds like you have a good list

[lazydel]

just boosting it back up may be helpful for potential buyers

[kraziepinoy]

if anyone changes the buttons and stick with happ parts, please put up a review and some pics :tup:

[dopey]

hey, dose anybody know if the bat from this stick would fit on a comp stick? i would like the bat to remain the same but a comp w/ a hard spring would feel much better.

[DragonSama]

If anyone Mods this stick please post a the full details and diagrams on how you did it. Or at the very lease PM them to me. Thanks!

[frogg609]

well i took mine apart tonight, to see about putting a new stick inside. The problem that I see is how the stick itself is bolted in. It looks like the rubber trim will have to be pulled off, the plexi top removed, and then whatever is under there to get to the screws. this could turn into a big mess. I'm going to decide by friday if it's worth it for me to buy the happ parts and mod it, or just buy a really nice stick from byrdo.

[lazydel]

well i took mine apart tonight, to see about putting a new stick inside. The problem that I see is how the stick itself is bolted in. It looks like the rubber trim will have to be pulled off, the plexi top removed, and then whatever is under there to get to the screws. this could turn into a big mess. I'm going to decide by friday if it's worth it for me to buy the happ parts and mod it, or just buy a really nice stick from byrdo.

noones actually claiming to have modded the joy yet, probrably the same fear of the molding not cooperating... that could be ugly. I'm too chicken to touch till one of these hardcore stick modders do it first, but it appears they have dismissed this stick anyway. For now my son uses the SF stick and I use my REDOCTANE mod. If you decide to take the plunge and let us know how it goes. :tup:

[supadupafly]

i gor i quick ? is it possible to use this for a dreamcaster if u get any type of converter since it has an internal on for the xbox and ps2?

[scottind]

hi this if my first post.

i just got one of these sticks and the feeling is pretty terrible concerning the stick and buttons; i have competition sticks and buttons with cherry microswitches ready to go from happ.

the problem is with the buttons, the quick connectors from the don't fit with the cherry ones, has anyone been able to remedy this issue, by either cutting the width of the connectors, or any other way. or can i purchase a cherry switch with the proper sized connectors.

as far as taking apart the clear plastic top, and the rubber molding, it seems easy enough, the rubber can come off with little effort because its not glued in. i am not keen on removing all the buttons though, but luckily it seems that the artwork can also be changed.

[kraziepinoy]

hi this if my first post.

i just got one of these sticks and the feeling is pretty terrible concerning the stick and buttons; i have competition sticks and buttons with cherry microswitches ready to go from happ.

the problem is with the buttons, the quick connectors from the don't fit with the cherry ones, has anyone been able to remedy this issue, by either cutting the width of the connectors, or any other way. or can i purchase a cherry switch with the proper sized connectors.

as far as taking apart the clear plastic top, and the rubber molding, it seems easy enough, the rubber can come off with little effort because its not glued in. i am not keen on removing all the buttons though, but luckily it seems that the artwork can also be changed.

there are lots of things you can do. You can just solder it on or just strip the wires and even just wrap it around the connectors if you want to be ghetto, hahah. But if you want to be professional you will need a Wire Stripper, a Crimping Tool, and QuickDisconects that fit the swtichs.

[lazydel]

hmmm... no joystick mods yet

[ArcadeStickMonk]

hmmm... no joystick mods yetHi
http://forums.gaming-age.com/showthread.php?t=33947

[saroorhai]

bah, looks to be far more trouble than its worth. I'll just keep my sfa stick stock and in the box and sell it on ebay in 2 years.
Besides, building your own box is much more fun.

[Purrin]

It's REALLY alot easier than it looks from that forum. If you go with Sanwa buttons, all you have to do is unplug the SF buttons and plug in the Sanwas...the QD's fit perfectly onto the Sanwa buttons.

But if you go with a Sanwa stick though, you're in for some lameness as you'll have to drill new holes and flatten out an area for the plate. BUT if you go with a Happ stick, "I think" you can use the same QD's that are on there already and it should fit into the screw holes from the stock stick...but I'm not 100% sure as I've never used a Happ before, but it should be real easy regardless.

So if you're a complete newbie to sticks and want to mod this thing easily....Go with Sanwa buttons and a Happ stick. The hardest part would be remembering which wire goes to which button/direction..but that's easy if you just do 1 button at a time (which is what I did) :tup:

http://img56.exs.cx/img56/8786/stick13gd.jpg

(yes I went with pink. I'm going to change the SF art as soon as I draw something up nice.)

[ssj2jeff]

is that a P360? if so where do you find the 5v?

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Purrin, precisly what kind of Sanwa buttons and stick did you use? I really want to see the inside.

And yes, I used the same holes and bolts for the Happ comp that the SF:AC came with.

[Purrin]

I used the snap in Sanwa buttons and they went in PERFECTLY and don't move/shift at all...and the SF's stock QD's just fit onto them like a glove. It's like if this stick was built for Sanwa buttons. :tup:

I used the Sanwa stick that Rod is selling at himuragames.com (the JLF-TP-8Y with a mounting plate). But like I said, it was a pain in the ass getting it in compared to the buttons. The mounting plate didn't fit into the area of the stock stick, and there was no way of getting the stock QD's onto the Sanwa hookup. I actually rip'd off a cord from an old Computer Powersuply (Floppy Drive cord) and it fit nicely for 4 of the 5 prongs...then I just squished a QD with a wrench so it would hold onto the last prong.

It was a messy job...but it works like a charm. I'll open it up tomorrow and get some pictures of the inside for your viewing pleasure.

And on a side note, I never once touched the PCB. This would really be the most easiest mod in the world with Sanwa buttons and a Happ stick. All you would need is a screw driver to open the box up. (that is if the stock QD's fit onto the Happ stick)

[ArcadeStickMonk]

that is if the stock QD's fit onto the Happ stickThey do, but my ground went out in two places and I had to redo a section anyway.

I really did not expect Sanwa's to work. They must be grabbing onto the clear plastic covering?

[Gaijinblaze]

Yeah, I also don't understand how clip-type Sanwa buttons could fit in a wooden top panel so easily. Not only would I think that the holes would be too small, but even if they were the right size, how on earth could such short-bodied buttons fit in wood to begin with?

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Well, I reckon that it's gripping the "lexan." I s'pose I could test it out, for I have my SF:AC and a partially dissasembled Green Goblin before me... Nah.

If you look in this shot from my modding guide, you can see how thick that plastic is.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/ArcadeStickMonk/Controllers/SF%20AC%20Mod/ASM-SFAC-16-GluetheBolts.jpg

[Gaijinblaze]

For that method, wouldn't the diameter of the holes in the lexan have to be smaller than the wood holes, so that there would be a lexan rim for the buttons to clip onto?

Sorry, you'll have to excuse me if I'm not making any sense. I've actually never seen the details of how a Sanwa clip-type button works. :wonder:

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Dammit, now I'm too curious. Gimme five minutes and I'll put a goblin button in there. Hey, that's be hella easy! I left those two holes with only plugs!

[ArcadeStickMonk]

If these buttons didn't have tabs on the sides to force an orientation, they would totally go right in.

Now, again, I don't have any Sanwa on hand, and these are just Sanwa-ish clip buttons that are in the Agetec Dreamcast stick. But the size is just right, I'm confused, need to re-read the Sanwa sticky.

[Robo Sol]

Hey, Purrin. You got the Sanwa stick with the plate. Do you NEED the plate? Cause I'm cheap and without the plate I can save myself five bucks. Also, was it easy enough to measure everything right so you don't end up have left and right directions slightly off?

[jsamans]

If you look in this shot from my modding guide, you can see how thick that plastic is.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/ArcadeStickMonk/Controllers/SF%20AC%20Mod/ASM-SFAC-16-GluetheBolts.jpg
Does this mean that swapping out the artwork might be more of a chore? It looks like once you get the joystick and buttons out, it's just a matter of taking off the black edge molding and removing the clear acrylic.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Does this mean that swapping out the artwork might be more of a chore? It looks like once you get the joystick and buttons out, it's just a matter of taking off the black edge molding and removing the clear acrylic.I don't know. Just because it is thick doesn't mean it's secured in any extra fashion.

Your theory is likely correct.

[Robo Sol]

Purrin, you said you got your stuff at HimuraGames.com and had to do some tedious adjustments for the mounting plate, right? What about this http://www.ultimarc.com/controls.html (scroll down to the J-stik), that mounting plate should work, right? I ask you since you were the one who tinkered with it. It's only 16 bucks, which is cheaper than HimuraGames has listed with and without a mounting plate. Not only that, it's still Sanwa.

EDIT: Also, I haven't looked deep into it, but it seems the plexi-glass is attatched to the artwork. Did you happen to notice any way that the artwork would come seperated from the piece in some fashion as so one could very easily slip their own artwork in, like you and me plan to do.

[pulsr]

i just put my p360 in it @@

[Purrin]

It MAY work, looks like it will...but I really have no idea. And the artwork is just taped to the plexi...just pull off the tape and the artwork will fall right off :tup:

Sorry all, for I still haven't taken any pictures of the guts, lol. But yeah the Sanwa buttons click onto the Plexi I believe. I really was expecting to have to do some adjustments to the holes but I threw one in to see how it fit and it was in there nice and firm.

Hey pulsr, where did ya end up connecting the 5v too :wgrin:

[lilblackino]

i just put my p360 in it @@

Where is the 5v loacated?

[JumpsuitJesse]

Question....Why are you guys even messing around with mounting plates for the Sanwa stick in the SFAC Stick?? I put my Sanwa stick and mounted it with 2 flat headed hex bolts and 2 locknuts. No mounting plate whatsoever and its tigh in place.

[bafiaris13]

Purrin thats a very nice mod..i have the SFAC and now seeing this for sure i m gonna make this mod..please post some pics of the inside it ll really help me