Happ-Modding Street Fighter Anniversary Stick: Fully Illustrated and Solder Free

[ArcadeStickMonk]

http://www.arcadestickmonk.com/SFACmod.html

I put the Happ in the Nuby SF:AC stick. Nothing at all difficult, but I did make a guide to try and convince people who normally wouldn't consider modding to try it.

[b1gazn]

Man, sick shit. I might consider purchasing this stick for the soul purpose to use this tutorial. Very nice and thanks.

PS: Would Sanwa parts fit inside SF:AC stick?

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Would Sanwa parts fit inside SF:AC stick?The button hole would need to be widened and I'm sure the inset for the stick base would have to be raised. You'd need something like a router tool. Read the Sanwa sticky to get an idea of to work with those parts.

The technical answer is "yes," but the short answer is "no."

[b1gazn]

thanks :tup:

[minmao]

what is thouse "dummy" buttons the guy used in the pictures to fill the unwanted holes? Where could I get those?

[ArcadeStickMonk]

what is thouse "dummy" buttons the guy used in the pictures to fill the unwanted holes? Where could I get those?Those are Happ button plugs, I ordered them along with the rest of the parts from www.happcontrols.com (http://www.happcontrols.com)

[minmao]

I see. Thank you. I should order those when I ordered my buttons..now I have to pay their ridiculous shipping again.

[SNAAAAKE]

Does it work with dreamcast and PC/USB converters ??
Does the interface have 5+ for p360 ??

Nice mod :karate:

[ax0r]

instead of the button plugs (which imo are ugly) you should of cut yourself a new sheet of plexi\lexan and not have drilled the extra holes. thats what I would of done atleast

[kraziepinoy]

You know it would of been easier to take the stick off by removing the rubber molding and taking off the artwork and plexiglass. No problem in doing so, all of it goes back on easily. But whatever floats your boat.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Does it work with dreamcast and PC/USB converters ??
Does the interface have 5+ for p360 ??I haven't tried adaptors yet, but I wouldn't expect it to be a champ, the PCB being what it is. I'll let somebody else fool with the P360, I'm actually planning on moving off of mine.

Nice mod :karate:Thank you, sir. Twas nothing.

instead of the button plugs (which imo are ugly) you should of cut yourself a new sheet of plexi\lexan and not have drilled the extra holes.Even with the new lexan, you'd still be able to see the holes which would be as ugly as I agree that the plugs are. I guess you could slip some black paper circles under there or something, but this wasn't a beauty contest mod, it was simply intended to show people that they don't have to settle for stick as they by them in the stores. Adding custom lexan ramps the difficulty and cost up to a point that I did not want to demonstrate.
You know it would of been easier to take the stick off by removing the rubber molding and taking off the artwork and plexiglass. No problem in doing so, all of it goes back on easily.I don't know if removing it all would have been easy or not, I didn't need to do it and I didn't want to scare anyone into thinking that they would have to risk the artwork or trim. In the end, and after some glue, this method allows repeated stick swaps (if necessary) with ease.

[jsamans]

Awesome job, I will definitely be following that guide when I get around to upgrading mine. You really laid out everything nicely, and it is very easy to follow.

One question though -- are 'pliars' anything like 'pliers'? :rofl:

[ArcadeStickMonk]

No, they're tons better. You really can't do the mod without them.

[minmao]

To ArcadestickMonk:
What kind of glue did you use to fix those?

[ax0r]

The point of the lexan would be to replace the art (even with the same one or whatever) so you dont see the holes.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

To ArcadestickMonk:
What kind of glue did you use to fix those?Random super glue I found on my shelf. When I was putting it on I was like, "This is going to look like shit. This isn't going to work."
But it did.

[ramza]

I don't know what he was thinking...you can't even select 3rd Strike from the opening menu screen w/o the X button...

[ArcadeStickMonk]

I don't know what he was thinking...you can't even select 3rd Strike from the opening menu screen w/o the X button...I was thinking that I'd disconnect L1\L2 because they aren't ever going to be used and hook the rest up starting with the buttons labeled Triangle and Circle.

That's what I was thinking.

[ramza]

o, i see what you're saying, didn't think you mentioned it in the tutorial. Wasn't trying to sound disrespectful.

[Christ0pher]

"It's like my hands are being raped!"
Easily the best part of the tutorial.

[SF-Zero2]

Ordered my parts from Happ today, and this'll be my first time modding a stick. Thanks for the awesome tutorial ArcadeStickMonk, answered every question i was going to have. Wish me luck

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Good luck.

[thedon777]

ArcadeStickMonk, I have a few questions

Instead of completly removing the original buttons first, can I unplug the cords from the original buttons(without removing them) and attach them to the competition buttons microswitches and remove them afterwards? I dont want to have to remove the pcb

Also can I do the same with the stick? and is removing it completly needed?

[ArcadeStickMonk]

I got a pic in there illustrating the size differences in the disconnects. The disconnects on the stock buttons are too small to fit on Happ's microswitches. The disconnects on the Bao-Lian stick are the correct size, so those do not need to be changed.

Removing the PCB isn't expressly required, but it will make working with the unit much neater and easier, and re-crimping the larger disconnects easier. I reccomend doing it, obviously. Just four screws and that thing is out of there.

Now if you are asking it you have to switch the Bao-Lian stick, well, I guess not, but switching it for a Happ was kinda the whole point of the exercise.

[lilblackino]

Can A Perfect u360(digital/optical) be put in the SF stick? if so were is the 5v located???

[SF-Zero2]

I had to wait for buttons on back order before I could finally finish, but now i am damn happy with AC Stick. I put a Happ Competition joystick and that square acuator makes a HUGE improvement on response time for me(feels 10x more precise on diagnols). I went the six Button route as well, just shifting the buttons over and plugging the X/A holes. i like the further spacing better. Now the thing's worth looking at AND playing on.

[lazydel]

I think shifting the buttons over is the best thing you can do to the stick, it just feels natural and right... but just cause im stupid like that I switched it back to see how it felt with the original placement...ouch it feels like my hands are being raped lol. gonna put it all back together and get my ass kicked on live tonight 60 wins out of 260 matches :sad:

[lazydel]

FIRST OF ALL THANKS TO ARCADE STICK MONK for the great tutorial I couldve done it without it but it wouldnt have been as worry free and quick. question for anyone who's done the mod. I completed the mod with a happ competition stick, the problem is that i feel the stick lock out on the plastic wall between the switches making the stick feels clunky in some spots. the redoctane i modded with the exact same stick is smooth as silk and always has been. could this have something to do with the thinness of the particle board on the SF anny stick??? does it need to break in??? come on oldschool stick veterans clue me in.

also the stick is rather tall,

[SArge10k]

Okay so basically u shift over the entire set of buttons...understandable... so would i shift over the wires with it? (instead of re-inputting the controls via the actual game?) and if so..what do i do with the 2 excess wires?

[SNAAAAKE]

Reposting same Q's

1 - does the stick actually have 5+ ??

2 - Does it work with converters(dreamcast,pc usb)

Cuz most universels dont have 5+ and they dont seem to work with converters(pelican universel for instance)

[b1gazn]

Reposting same Q's

1 - does the stick actually have 5+ ??

2 - Does it work with converters(dreamcast,pc usb)

Cuz most universels dont have 5+ and they dont seem to work with converters(pelican universel for instance)

2. Yes it works with a convertor.

[Tzen]

Okay so basically u shift over the entire set of buttons...understandable... so would i shift over the wires with it? (instead of re-inputting the controls via the actual game?) and if so..what do i do with the 2 excess wires?

Yes, you shift the wires. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to navigate the menus.

[Chang]

Quick question: How tough are the PCBs in these SF sticks? I'm having an inordinate amount of trouble trying to remove the plugs.

I suppose I could get along without removing the plugs, but then I'd be dangling a PCB off the Live port while trying to do the mod.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

There are only 2 plugs you need to remove to get the PCB out. There is the Live port plug, which has small tabs on the back of it which need to be pushed in. And there is the plug for the cord, which I have shown that you need to move some tough tabs on it's front in order to remove it. I cut the tabs on the cord plug loose with a razor.

[Chang]

Yeah, but I have as yet been unsuccessful in removing either plug. The main cord plug has one tab completely covered by that little black transistor-looking thingy.

The plug to the Live port won't budge at all, even after wiggling the two tabs down.

[laurie]

Hehe Thanks.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/laurie47/stick.jpg

[zin_ramu]

Well my first moding experience has hit a snag, I can't for the life of me get the stick base out. I tried putting some tape around pliars and using to secure the bolt, while I use a wrench to loosen the nut, but the screw just seems to slip in the pliars. Its so tight in there is hard to work.

Anyone have any suggestions on alternative ways to get the stick base out? I'm trying the get in a happ comp joystick.

Otherwise tutorial is going great ... buttons are ready to go, its just the darn joystick giving me problems.

Zin

[lazydel]

Well my first moding experience has hit a snag, I can't for the life of me get the stick base out. I tried putting some tape around pliars and using to secure the bolt, while I use a wrench to loosen the nut, but the screw just seems to slip in the pliars. Its so tight in there is hard to work.

Anyone have any suggestions on alternative ways to get the stick base out? I'm trying the get in a happ comp joystick.

Otherwise tutorial is going great ... buttons are ready to go, its just the darn joystick giving me problems.

Zin

take the molding off (dont worry it wont hurt) go easy when you first start, dont rip it, it's in there kinda tight which is a good thing, use a razor to get the tape off that's holding the plexi and art. then voila you have access to the screws. if you've stripped them you can use the ones from the rubber feet and just replace them with shorter neater stick on ones.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

I guess I was the only one man enough to get the nuts off from the bottom. Everybody tells me that they did it by removing the molding. I never hear the end of it.

[Chang]

Success! I finally did it, and without removing any plugs from the PCB! Incedentally, I also took off the molding (sorry ArcadeStickMonk). Well, that amazing pain in the ass experience is out of the way. Now on to actually playing.

[lazydel]

I guess I was the only one man enough to get the nuts off from the bottom. Everybody tells me that they did it by removing the molding. I never hear the end of it.

I admit, I didnt have the patience for that tedious process, any comment on this thing having input lag?

great tutorial btw

[ArcadeStickMonk]

I've been meaning to sit down and go through some lag tests, but I just haven't had the time.

At the moment I do not believe there is any. I mean, if they're selling PCBs with input lag then they are as bad as X-Gaming.

I did notice some lag while playing on Live last week, but I believe that this was simply Live's lag and had nothing to do with input. What stood out is the the amount of lag would vary from minute to minute; it got shorter and longer. Also, I didn't even notice any my first night of playing.

When I get a chance I will test it against the same person. I'll run the SF:AC, my MAS, and the S-type through the tests. I expect them to all rank the same, but, who knows?

[zin_ramu]

Well, its finished thanks for suggestion of removing the molding lazydel that made the process so much easier and many thanks to ArcadeStickMonk for the amazing tutorial. I have absolutely no handy man skills and have never modded anything before, but with the tutorial as a guide it was a snap.

As for the results, its amazing. The Happ competition joystick is mcuh better as everyone has noted, especially the ability to feel corners. I moved the buttons over and it feels better in my hands now also. The Happ competition push buttons are also a great improvement, much slimer and feel more responsive. All in all, I couldn't be more pleased.

Zin

[Fasty McNasty]

can anybody post some pics of their finished products? i wanna see with it looks like with different colors of buttons. sofar i've seen pink and green and they both look pretty good. im trying to decide what color i should use.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

This fellow was color blind.

http://www.xetsar.com/pictures/misc/controller.jpg

[jsamans]

can anybody post some pics of their finished products? i wanna see with it looks like with different colors of buttons. sofar i've seen pink and green and they both look pretty good. im trying to decide what color i should use.
Hehe I am at the same point as you, I am ready to upgrade, but I can't decide on what color scheme to go with. I guess there are worse problems in life, eh?

I'll probably end up getting a few different color combinations, since I plan on changing the artwork too.

[Fasty McNasty]

@ ArcadeStickMonk
yeah, terrible color combination there. i was thinking maybe all white buttons and stick but im still not sure.



Hehe I am at the same point as you, I am ready to upgrade, but I can't decide on what color scheme to go with. I guess there are worse problems in life, eh?

I'll probably end up getting a few different color combinations, since I plan on changing the artwork too.


if you plan on changing the artwork, you're probably better off getting a custom made stick. imo the SFAE stick is a collectors item and without the art that just seems kinda pointless. it would be cool though to be able to switch back and forth with custom art but wouldnt that require you to remove the stick and buttons? i may be wrong.

[jsamans]

if you plan on changing the artwork, you're probably better off getting a custom made stick. imo the SFAE stick is a collectors item and without the art that just seems kinda pointless. it would be cool though to be able to switch back and forth with custom art but wouldnt that require you to remove the stick and buttons? i may be wrong.
I thought about this... I figure a custom enclosure with an xbox live port would end up costing more than the entire SFAC stick + Happ parts. SFAC stick + Happ parts still comes in way under $100. It appears that you will need to remove all of the buttons and part of the joystick to replace the art, so it's definitely not something you can swap out on a whim.

Anyway, I convinced myself that the original artwork will be much less succeptable to, umm, dangerous UV rays and fading from the sun (not to mention beer breath and ganja smoke) if I replace it and store it safely away in the box with the original joystick and buttons (and color print outs of arcade stick monk's guide).

Imagine digging up that time capsule of arcade stick mediocrity in an archeological dig thousands of years in the future: "Sir! We've uncovered a SFAC joystick! Quick, call the Smithsonian! Wait, hold that, it's just the artwork and the crappy original components, and a print out of some joker saying his hands are getting raped.... Well, call the local textile museum anyway, the one guy is wearing interesting socks in all the pictures." :rofl:

This way if I ever decide to sell it or display it as a collector's item, all the original hardware and the original artwork (and directions on how to do it) will be in one place and I can slap it all in at the same time. And honestly, if I wanted one for a true collectors item I would have bought two and left one sealed.

[lazydel]

for some reason every pic i try to post says im exceeding the forum limit by some outrageously wrong #. but you can go to www.geocities.com/lazydel and see my modded sticks.

[SavioR II Turbo]

just got done modding my sfac stick. black happ comp stick with black comp buttons, you get the idea. thanks to arcadestickmonk for answering a few of my questions. stick is definetly worth it if you plan on modding it, works like a champ.

[KYJellyDonut]

I'm a bit new to stick modding and I bought an SFani and decided to give this a try...

I ordered these parts from happ...These are the right ones yes? I didn't have to order Microswitches seperately or anything?

Line # Item # Description Qty Price Extended
1 58-9610-L COMPETITION PB RED LONG BEZ CONVEX W/.187 SILVER MS & NUT 8 $1.95 $15.60
2 50-6070-10 COMPETITION J/S 8W M/S RED 1 $13.35 $13.35
3 53-8002-00 PUSHBUTTON WRENCH F/IPB,VERT &HORZ. P.B. 1 $2.45 $2.45
Order Total: $31.40

[Chang]

I'm a bit new to stick modding and I bought an SFani and decided to give this a try...

I ordered these parts from happ...These are the right ones yes? I didn't have to order Microswitches seperately or anything?

Line # Item # Description Qty Price Extended
1 58-9610-L COMPETITION PB RED LONG BEZ CONVEX W/.187 SILVER MS & NUT 8 $1.95 $15.60
2 50-6070-10 COMPETITION J/S 8W M/S RED 1 $13.35 $13.35
3 53-8002-00 PUSHBUTTON WRENCH F/IPB,VERT &HORZ. P.B. 1 $2.45 $2.45
Order Total: $31.40

Yep. Those are the right ones and microswitches are included.. You'll also get about a $15 shipping charge, in case you didn't already know.

[Verboten]

If you want to conceal the holes without using plugs, I have a suggestion.

That's if you're actually going to make a new plexi glass cover as well.

Just scan the face paper into your computer and blend the holes with the immediate surrounding background. Print it out with maximum DPI quality, cut it according to size and just tape it underneat the holes. It would be less noticeable than using plugs or even having a gaping hole.

[KYJellyDonut]

Yep. Those are the right ones and microswitches are included.. You'll also get about a $15 shipping charge, in case you didn't already know.

No I didn't know...holy shit thats a rip off....geez...I guess I have no choice eh? heh.

Its still cheaper then a MAS.

[Chang]

No I didn't know...holy shit thats a rip off....geez...I guess I have no choice eh? heh.

Its still cheaper then a MAS.


Yeah. I guess that was why one dude got pissed when they forgot to order the wrench. I'd hate to have to pay that again just because I forgot one little $2 thing.

[lazydel]

Yeah. I guess that was why one dude got pissed when they forgot to order the wrench. I'd hate to have to pay that again just because I forgot one little $2 thing.

the wrench is nice but not necessary, I ordered one for my build but it was the wrong one, so i just screwed em down with my wrist and finger tool aka my hand, they dont shift move or anything and my son pounds the buttons pretty fierce.

[Cowdisease]

Man, I can't believe this happened. I was successful in replacing the stick and buttons (man, was it a pain to crimp two ground wires to one quick disconnect), but I realized that Xbox no longer recognizes the Communicator when it's plugged it (and yes, the communicator worked fine with the controller before I did the mod). It's odd because the green led of the communicator lights up when it's plugged into the controller.

I tested the Communicator on my regular controller and it works fine. Anyone has any clues as to why the Communicator won't work anymore?

[KYJellyDonut]

My shipping was 11.47

heh with tax, 8 buttons, 1 comp stick and the wrench....

Grand Total....46.61

Holy shit thats expensive for plastic buttons and a joystick.

Its still around $50 cheaper then a MAS or a DF stick, but with DF I'd have the coolness factor at least :) MAS to me is garbage, so I don't mind them....Any stick that you have to pay $140 for and then rewire to get it to work right after it f's up, is a piece of crap in my opinion.

J

[stripes777]

u guys can get them off ebay for cheaper than getting from happ. i got like 2 comp controllers, 2 "1" player buttons, a wrench, and like 20 comp buttons for lik 65 shipped form xxberry xx or somehting like that

[KYJellyDonut]

What happened to the mod posting? it's down. Is it posted anywhere else?

[ArcadeStickMonk]

It's up, but sometimes the GAF can wig out.

I just uploaded it to my bare-bones website last night.

http://www.arcadestickmonk.com/SFACmod.html

[Faight]

Everytime I go over to my friend Kevin's house and see his SF:AC unmodded stick, I just have to play on it and let him know that it feels like my hands are being raped.

I offered to mod it for him for free if he pays for the buttons and stick, but he says he LIKES the buttons/stick on there. He's crazy.

[SF-Zero2]

I admit, I didnt have the patience for that tedious process, any comment on this thing having input lag?


I've been playing SFA2,SFA3,CVS2,SFAC with a modded(same stuff as in Monk's conversion) SFAC stick for about 3 weeks, testing it with my roommate against the SFAC pad, PS2 pad, S-Type XB and the Big Duke XB rematching the same characters to see if there was any input lag, didn't notice any at all in any OFFLINE game.

ONLINE it seems to work fine-I didn't feel any delay from the stick itself, just the general lag that goes with XBLive.

I can't post pics cuz my computer sucks, but I chose to do a Red-Green-Blue color scheme on the buttons(went with 6) with a black joystick. Call it the Primary Color Edit....or Patriot Christmas
:clap:

[GlassNinja]

Those disconnects are male or female?

[KYJellyDonut]

female 18-22 ,187

[GlassNinja]

Okay i finished the mod last night...i screwed up cuz i re-crimped the wrong damn ground wire (joystick)...ugh i got pissed :mad: ...so i ghetto fixed it by reconnecting the original disconnects with electrical tape(i accidentally re-crimped 4 sets)...it works just fine...but i have the feeling I'll have to replace the ground wire soon due to the half-ass job...how would i do that?

[Skylab]

=0
Hm, I MIGHT do this.. Nice work..
I hate the big buttons...

[KYJellyDonut]

Okay i finished the mod last night...i screwed up cuz i re-crimped the wrong damn ground wire (joystick)...ugh i got pissed :mad: ...so i ghetto fixed it by reconnecting the original disconnects with electrical tape(i accidentally re-crimped 4 sets)...it works just fine...but i have the feeling I'll have to replace the ground wire soon due to the half-ass job...how would i do that?


I was scared of that myself...I color coded everything and wrote it all down before hand. The ground wire for the joystick should have the same disconnect size as the ones for the buttons (.186), The only two disconnects that are smaller are last two on that line...the ones for the start/select button. I would remove the electrical tape and just recrimp new disconnects. Its more of a risk to leave it and have a short.

J

[GlassNinja]

Are you positively sure that they're the same? 18-22 females? cuz i don't wanna go and by disconnects I can't use. And what if the wire ends up too short

[ArcadeStickMonk]

What's the concern here?

Now, I never bothered to remember what measurement what disconnect was, but I know which ones were smaller than others.

The only disconnects that were Happ-compatible were those used on the joystick itself. The four signal, and first four of the ground chain were the larger size. The last two on that chain were the smaller size for the start and select buttons.

So, obviously those larger disconnects never needed to be changed,and they are the same size as the replacements I bought for the new Happ parts. And the smaller disconnects that you might still have around from the stock buttons will fit the start and select buttons.

Or maybe I'm not understanding the issue.


Usually a disconnect can not be too large for a tab, just too small. I tried to use some disconnects left over from my SFAC mod on some Sanwa buttons, which have smaller prongs. Well, they stayed on just fine after I squeezed them on with the pliers. Unfortunately, the case was too thin to use them.

If you have to extend a wire, that's usually solder country, and about 10 seconds of work once the iron is hot. If you still want to keep the whole deal solderless, then you can strip a section of the original wire, then a section of a new one, braid those sections tight, then cover the whole joint with non-conductive tape.

[bigbadboaz]

Well, I just joined up to give props to the Monk. I did the mod yesterday and I'm beyond thrilled. The stock stick IMO does a good enough job of feeling like an arcade unit that I was amazed how much of a difference I noticed immediately with the Happ parts. The modded stick is just wonderful. So, ASM, thanks for making this project so doable.

I kept the stock color configuration but used concave buttons for the SF six on the left to get that old-school feel I grew up with. I used Competition buttons for the two black ones on the right so there's a tactile difference at the end of the primary six. This works well to keep compatibility with all games.

Question for the more experienced builders out there: are solder connections superior, conductively or otherwise, to the disconnect method? I was struck by how easily crimps came undone, etc. If going back in and soldering everything is worthwhile, I'll do it.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

So, ASM, thanks for making this project so doable.My pleasure.

are solder connections superior, conductively or otherwise, to the disconnect method?Like you said, crimps can come undone. If you can do it, soldering is almost always better. There's no conductive gain that I'm aware of, but if done right, you never have to worry about stuff falling off.

That line towed, I avoid soldering whenever possible. I like the idea that I can change the buttons and stick in a unit without heating up an iron. Also, I've begun making and modding sticks that attach to Playstation and Xbox controller PCBs via serial cables. Since I might have to re-arrange what button in the stick leads to what button on the PCB, I keep everything crimped as long as the situation allows.

If you want to close up the stick and never have to worry about it, solder. If you're like me and can't help constant tinkering or just want maximum versatility, go for disconnects.

[contak]

Well, I just joined up to give props to the Monk. I did the mod yesterday and I'm beyond thrilled. The stock stick IMO does a good enough job of feeling like an arcade unit that I was amazed how much of a difference I noticed immediately with the Happ parts. The modded stick is just wonderful. So, ASM, thanks for making this project so doable.

I kept the stock color configuration but used concave buttons for the SF six on the left to get that old-school feel I grew up with. I used Competition buttons for the two black ones on the right so there's a tactile difference at the end of the primary six. This works well to keep compatibility with all games.

Question for the more experienced builders out there: are solder connections superior, conductively or otherwise, to the disconnect method? I was struck by how easily crimps came undone, etc. If going back in and soldering everything is worthwhile, I'll do it.
I think it really depends on what you want. If you plan on upgrading or make any changes with your stick, go with the disconnects, if its more of a permanent thing then solder. Soldering gives a better connection.

[jsamans]

That line towed, I avoid soldering whenever possible. I like the idea that I can change the buttons and stick in a unit without heating up an iron.
I agree with this 100%. Disconnects just give you the most freedom: backwards compatability, future upgrades, etc. Unless you live on a ship at sea, or in some other place where the air is extremely humid and salty, I don't think you need to worry about conductiveness too much in terms of disconnects vs. solder.

My stick and buttons should be here next week, I can't wait to do this mod.

[armad1ll0]

I actually braced mine so that the competition isn't in the slot for the BL joystick. I don't like the spacing where it's seated so low and the joystick shaft feels much longer.

[bigbadboaz]

Thanks for the replies. I'll stick with the disconnects for now.

I'll be doing my 2P stick as soon as the next shipment of Happ parts arrives. :clap:

In case this helps anyone - I was surprised no one seems to know this site:

www.therealbobroberts.com

Great service, and MUCH better pricing on Happ parts than Happ themselves.

[jsamans]

Finally got my parts in (took forever, I ordered them on March 3).

The tutorial was smooth as butter. While waiting for the stupid parts to arrive I must have read that thing 25 times. I expected it to be more of a challenge than it was.

I went for the all black look:

http://home.comcast.net/~jsamans/sfac.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~jsamans/sfac_in.jpg

Sorta boring. I need to live a little.

Anyway, thanks for the great tutorial!

[jsamans]

Some thoughts on the mod:

* whenever I do anything involving wiring or electronics, I always manage to cut myself or otherwise injure a finger. This time I managed to ram a pocket knife about a half inch under my left thumbnail while trying to pry off the e-clip from the original stick. Ouch! But at least it isn't a finger I need for pressing buttons.

* I ended up taking the plexi off to unscrew the original joystick. Even so it was really hard, the nuts on those bolts were locking nuts or otherwise had some sort of plastic on the threads that made them more difficult to remove than they needed to be. It might have been slightly easier if my left thumb wasn't throbbing and bleeding, but I doubt it.

* when I replaced the plexi, I noticed that all sorts of dust and tiny little wooden particles from the particle board that the box is made of ended up trapped between the artwork and the plexi. Oh well. Next time I'll remember to dust it off with a can of air.

* removing the t-molding was tricky only because the part that fits in the slot wanted to tear off from the molding rather than come out of the slot.

* the wire map says that the wire for the X/A button is dark grey -- it is more of a purple shade in my stick.

[lilblackino]

Hey Guys! Has anyone Put a Perfect 360 in yet? if so were do u put the 5v wire????

[RoDcHaN]

BIG ASS PROPZ to the Monk....that was the coolest tutorial ever...ive mustve seen that tutorial 10 million times online and this thread a grip of times before i did it....couple of things people may want to know about modding it:

Taking the molding and the plexi glass is the easiest way to get the nuts off on the joystick base...

Happ button wrench is not required but recommended if u have fat fingers like myself lol...

Make sure not to pull the wire so hard from the disconnect or it will disconnect itself from the disconnect....lol ive messed up many times on that....

DONT BE SCARED TO DO IT!...it will save u lots of frustration of the old joystick sticking to a direction and the buttons feel so much better

[nothingxs]

This guide makes me want to mod a stick. :tup:

It also has the added benefit of being mildly amusing.

[UltraDavid]

Thanks for the guide! I finished my stick this morning. I modded it with all red buttons and a red stick, it looks pretty sick. Great guide, it was really helpful. I didn't even think about modding a stick before seeing this, I figured it was too hard for someone with no electronics experience like me, but everything worked out fine. I had a great time doing it, too.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

I didn't even think about modding a stick before seeing thisThat was my #1 goal. Thank you for the affirmation.

[Minus01]

This guide is off the chain. I just ordered a Pelican joystick that was modded with Happ parts. I can't wait!

[Junkyard God]

thanks, man.

you've influenced me to modding my stick a few weeks ago because of this guide. Joystick modding isn't even close to intimidating at all, and i didn't have to remember which wires went where.

only had a small problem with one of the grounds not plugging in right, but other then that, my stick works beautifully. :tup:

[fakie tre]

Do happ joysticks have octigonal restrictor plates or do they have a square one? Great tutotial by the way.

[Dnut]

Does anybody here notices that the start and select buttons are REALLY close to the joystick? To the owners of this, has anyone pressed any of those two buttons by accident? I would hate to have paused the game when Im doing a super combo or something like that.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Do happ joysticks have octigonal restrictor plates or do they have a square one?They don't use restrictors at all. Depending on the model , the feel is different. The feel is achieved with actuator shape and the area that it moves in.
Supers feel round, Competitions feel mostly round, and the corners can be felt on Ultimates.

Does anybody here notices that the start and select buttons are REALLY close to the joystick? To the owners of this, has anyone pressed any of those two buttons by accident?When I was using it, this issue never actually happened, but I was worried about this too.

[LET]

I have real trouble trying to get the Happ parts in the UK. Happ won't accept my debit card, only credit. And I find all those shipping options confusing. I put it as 'priority air mail' is this a good idea? I can't find any Happs UK dealers either so I'm getting pretty stuck.. Can anyone help me out?!!

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Go ahead and post a new thread about getting the parts in UK. I know nothing about that, but there are enough UK builders here that should. They probably won't notice your question in this thread is all.

[UltraDavid]

Does anybody here notices that the start and select buttons are REALLY close to the joystick? To the owners of this, has anyone pressed any of those two buttons by accident? I would hate to have paused the game when Im doing a super combo or something like that.
Nah, they aren't close enough for that. The only problem is that on some games if you press start and back at the same time, the game resets, and since those two are so close that has happened a couple times.

[Junkyard God]

since these sticks are still available, i'd hate to see this topic disappear cause it helped me get a decent stick for xbox without having to build the box myself.

[Tritone]

Does anybody here notices that the start and select buttons are REALLY close to the joystick? To the owners of this, has anyone pressed any of those two buttons by accident? I would hate to have paused the game when Im doing a super combo or something like that.

Actually I was playing #Reload at my friend's house yesterday and that happened. And not only did it pause, but since pressing start causes the menu to come up and we were both still moving our sticks and pressing buttons wildly, we accidentally quit the game. I was winning, too.

[UltraDavid]

I just wanted to say that after my initial experience with modding the Anniversary stick, I've gotten the confidence to try more. I'm outfitting my MAS stick with a new stick and new buttons, and I don't even need a guide to do it. This is going to involve soldering, but other than the exact way to operate a soldering iron (which my brother is going to show me), I know how to handle everything required. Electronics no longer scare me. Thanks again, man.

[Tritone]

Hey everybody, I figure now's the time to share my creation with this super valuable information ArcadeStickMonk was so nice to share :)


Here's the wiring: http://s91116975.onlinehome.us/guts.jpg

Here's a side view: http://s91116975.onlinehome.us/sideview.jpg

Here's a top view of the artwork up close: http://s91116975.onlinehome.us/artcloseup.jpg


Thanks for your awesome tutorial, ArcadeStickMonk!

[ChainZ]

Damn man very nice...clean...Good job man!!

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Tritone... did you get Sanwa 24mm for the Start\Select, but went with Happ for the rest?

Sanwa 30mm snaps go right in there.

[Tritone]

Heh actually, I used the Hori start/select buttons left over from when I fully-Sanwa'd my HRAP. They fit pretty well :)

Does Happ make any buttons that fit in the start/select holes, though? It would be nice to have all the yellow the same shade :-P

ChainZ - thanks, that means a lot coming from a professional guy like yourself ;)

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Hori, right, the prongs should have been a giveaway.

To my knowledge, all the Happ buttons are the same size.

[Tritone]

Ah, thanks for the info. Another mystery solved!

[Triune]

Quick question:

The cord box on my stick is starting to come loose (surpise, it's glued in, after all). Well, the globs o'goo are on top of the box and the particle board, and two of them broke/fractured/whatever.

Would it be better to reglue inbetween the particle board and the box (glue sandwich), or to attempt to drill small holes into the board and screw it in? There are little holes in the control cord box, so I'm thinking originally they planned to have it screw in, and cut corners gluing.

Help!

[ArcadeStickMonk]

My "cord box" came loose too, and then during re-insertion I cracked the bottom piece by using a technique calling "punching."

I don't recommend punching.

Good wood glue or Gorilla glue will hold it in, but such glues request a tight clamping of the objects to be bonded for many hours. If you can keep the two pieces tightly together overnight, then strong wood glues and the like will do the job.

[saroorhai]

I don't know how you guys will feel about this, but when I did the mod, I simply cut the rubber part off the top half of the button disconnects and widened them with a screw driver. I used a pocket knife to take the rubber off. Also, I put a small bit if solder on the switch prong and the discconect, heated the disconnect and slid it easily over the switch prong. Obviously, you gotta use pliers to slide the disconnect over the switch, and you have to becareful about getting it too hot, but with the solder it seems get hot fast without transfering heat too far down the wire. You can open the disconnect to fit over the switch prong without heat. This sounds ghetto, but it's actually pretty tidy, and the prongs won't be coming off anytime soon. The connection is real tight, probably more so than changing the switches.

[Crusader]

I modded my stick today. It's the first time I've ever modded a stick. :clap:

First of all, for those of you who don't know me, I am stupid. So if I can do this, that means anyone can. Don't be discouraged. I made like 5 mistakes during the mod and fortunately all of them were reversible. It took me about five hours to complete the stick but that's because I'm an idiot and this had a lot of firsts for me (first time modding a stick and first time stripping and crimping wires). It was fun. A couple of things I did differently:

1) I told myself I was NOT going to do this, but I ended up going thru the top of the box and thru the plexi and artwork to get the joystick base screws out. I don't see how it's possible to do otherwise. That top left corner nut is surrounded by everything and I could not use the pliar+wrench combo to get it to come out. There wasn't enough room for my tools. I even went to Home Depot to look for another smaller wrench and did not find one. So I cursed to myself and went thru the top. There was no problem and I thought it was MUCH easier this way. I recommend others to do it this way instead.

2) I didn't remove anything from the PCB. I removed the PCB itself from the base but none of the connections on the PCB were removed. I was worried I'd fuck something up if I did so I left it on and there were no problems.

I thought the stick was great the way it was and I wasn't going to mod it originally, but I was bored and had a few extra dollars and said, "ah what the hell, it'll be an interesting experience." I'm glad I did, it feels like a real arcade stick and it's awesome to show off to my friends.

Me: "Yeah man I installed REAL arcades parts in it."
Them: "DUDE that is fucking awesome. Let me try it."

Thank you for the guide arcadestickmod, it was easy to use, I enjoyed making this stick, and I learned a lot from doing so. :tup:

[Superking]

Hey everybody, I figure now's the time to share my creation with this super valuable information ArcadeStickMonk was so nice to share :)


Here's the wiring: http://s91116975.onlinehome.us/guts.jpg

Here's a side view: http://s91116975.onlinehome.us/sideview.jpg

Here's a top view of the artwork up close: http://s91116975.onlinehome.us/artcloseup.jpg


Thanks for your awesome tutorial, ArcadeStickMonk!

Where did you get your custom art printed? I'm thinking kinkos, but I've been told by just about everybody that they're mid-tier when it comes to printing. :sad:

[Tritone]

I actually got it done by Kinkos, but it turned out really badly, so I got it done by my friend Neil (known on the boards here as "nasci") and he did a much better job. The pictures were kinda low-res, so he used an expensive program to turn the bitmaps into vectors, which somehow, for some reason, makes them look much better... I have no idea why... Also he works at a graphic design firm so the print quality was superb!

[Superking]

Oh, well thanks anyway, sigh, kinkos. =(

[ParryAll]

Hey is that DarkTenX guy xxDarkTienxx from Xbox live??

Just curious.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

No, Dark10x is just my good friend who I asked to do the photos with me to make the guide more relevent and entertaining for another forum we both visit.

That's not his gamertag and he's not at all an arcade stick enthusiast

But digdem sox!

[MeGaXmAn27]

alrighty ladies and gents, it took about 3 hours to finish, would have been shorter but.. taking out the nuts on the joystick was a pain since the screw turned as well as the nuts, I ended up using a dremel on the screws...

Another reason why it took so long was I didn't bother to buy the 18-22 gauge quick disconnects, instead... I ended up soldering it, guess it wasn't a 100 percent solderless mod for me haha. Anywho, the end results are well worth it. Anybody who has the SF stick, I highly recommend modding it. The stick just plain sucked on its own. Enjoy the pics. And thanks to arcadestickmonk for the awesome right up

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v391/megaxman27/IMG_4694.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v391/megaxman27/IMG_4692.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v391/megaxman27/IMG_4695.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v391/megaxman27/IMG_4696.jpg

[Dnut]

Thanx to Arcadestickmonk for the great tutorial. I couldnt of find a better joystick to work with if it wasnt for the tutorial. Saved me a lot of time from building a box and soldering a hacked controller.

I thought it was about time I post up pic of my joystick also. The pic quality is bad because I took the pics with my cell.
I took out the artwork and replaced it with a black background to keep it nice and simple. Here are the pics.

http://photobucket.com/albums/b21/Wah_Q/?action=view&current=07-30-05_0304.jpg

http://photobucket.com/albums/b21/Wah_Q/?action=view&current=07-30-05_0303.jpg

http://photobucket.com/albums/b21/Wah_Q/?action=view&current=07-30-05_0300.jpg

I also put together a hybrid joystick consisting of a super joystick base and a competition knob. I wasnt happy with the competition performance but I really like the joystick. So I modify the Super's microswitch actuator to fit a competition knob. Now the joystick feels just like a P360 joystick with microswitches. I would use a P360 but I dont know how to install a 5v power source for the joystick. So this was the closest thing to the P360. Here's some pics.

http://photobucket.com/albums/b21/Wah_Q/?action=view&current=07-30-05_0302.jpg

http://photobucket.com/albums/b21/Wah_Q/?action=view&current=07-26-05_0053.jpg (notice the levers on the microswitches)

http://photobucket.com/albums/b21/Wah_Q/?action=view&current=07-26-05_0052.jpg


My custom joysticks that I made back in 2002 for the dreamcast and ps2.

http://photobucket.com/albums/b21/Wah_Q/?action=view&current=06-11-05_0340.jpg

[ArcadeStickMonk]

I'm very pleased that what I did over two days in January is still being of use to serious stick fans and beginers alike. Reading these project debriefs gives me the drive to finish up all those other tutorials and resources that I keep finding myself short on time to finish.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v391/megaxman27/IMG_4694.jpg
Did they start putting the PCB in a different place?

[xXxDa_RaGexXx]

When it comes to getting off the 4 self locking nutts that hold down the black base of the stick........For the love of God just go through the top. Just be careful with the artwork. But it is very simple, just a 1 2 3 process and your done. I tryed it ArcadeStickMonk's way and I was ready to put the buzz saw to that shit lol.
But other than that..It was a veeeeeeeeeerrrry good guide thanx for putting in the time to make it. U get nothing but praise in my book lol :pray:

[MeGaXmAn27]

I'm very pleased that what I did over two days in January is still being of use to serious stick fans and beginers alike. Reading these project debriefs gives me the drive to finish up all those other tutorials and resources that I keep finding myself short on time to finish.

Did they start putting the PCB in a different place?

yeah.. I was about to panic when I took it apart and it didn't match your guide.. haha

[adonis_minus_20]

I just finished doing this mod, and other than getting the nuts off (that sounds wrong) and back on, it was relatively easy. I didn't mess with the molding or taking off the plexi. My brother came up with a really good idea for removing the crappy joystick while keeping the bolts from moving. He used a flexible extension on a dremel tool with a very small drill bit, and drilled a tiny hole through the plastic joystick base and into the side of each bolt (down near the base of it). Then he just used a solder poking tool inserted through the hole in the joystick base and into the hole in the bolt. This held the bolt perfectly still with no grief, and the nuts came off and were put back on with ease (and I didn't have to mess with the molding and artwork...I would have screwed it up). I used a Happs competition joystick and buttons (I kept to the same color scheme for the buttons as the original). Now this thing works perfectly! Thanks for posting the guide, you made it easy to do this mod!

Jim

[canoshiz]

Yeah... So I seem to have one of the different SFAC sticks. This one's PCB doesn't have a seperate set of plugs for the stick inputs, and the wires are all different colors. Could someone hook me up with a wire diagram of this one? I've seen a couple others in this thread. Thanks.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

If you open the stick up and see a different PCB, the proper thing to do is take notation of what wire is hooked to what before you disconnect them. Did you do this?

The best I can offer now is this pic posted by MegaXman some weeks earlier.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v391/megaxman27/IMG_4694.jpg

[canoshiz]

I was kinda hoping I would be able to rely on the guide, but I guess that's not the case. Damn I feel stupid now. :sad: Hopefully MegaXman can help me then.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

It's like Nuby saw what a service to humanity I made with that tutorial and said, "Fuck that guy. Change the PCB."

Bastards.

[Baltimore Chun]

I have put a P360 in a Street Fighter Anniversary Stick, and the stick works fine with Capcom Games but not with anything else!! What’s that about?

It works fine with Dreamcast converter (CVS2) thats all i tested it on.

I have used it with a modded xbox,
Emu's don't work
Capcom games do work (cvs2, CFJ, sfAE, 3S)with the Xbox
Any other games does not, Max impact, KOF etc.

I have also tesed it with the PS2, GGX does not work Charter keeps jumping. During game play with CVS2 it works fine but not in the menus.

[Shoryuken0504]

I actually got it done by Kinkos, but it turned out really badly, so I got it done by my friend Neil (known on the boards here as "nasci") and he did a much better job. The pictures were kinda low-res, so he used an expensive program to turn the bitmaps into vectors, which somehow, for some reason, makes them look much better... I have no idea why... Also he works at a graphic design firm so the print quality was superb!


Would he be willing to do it for other people?

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Would he be willing to do it for other people?Neil is too nice for his own good.

I owe him money and he hasn't even sent goon one.

[f1are]

great guide arcadestickmonk. you make it seem simple; encouraging for those who know nothing about modding. btw, why hasn't this thread been stickied?

[FSgamer]

Great job ArcadeStickMonk!!! :tup:

I modded mine SFAE stick last week. I've got some questions though. Quick disconnects are really pissing me off. Every once in a while I'll be playing and in the middle of the game one or more buttons will stop working. I open the stick and I realize a wire has fallen off the disconnect. I reconnect and start playing playing again.

http://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/madcatz2.htm

In this link the guy crimps the disconnects in a different way than you do. Do you think if I crimp the disconnects like it shows in the link above I'll have less problems with wires falling off the disconnects? Or should I admit I did an ass job and recrimp new disconnects your way? I've been even thinking about soldering all the wires instead.

Also, after a few days playing with the modded stick I decided to switch the spring of the Happ stick with the spring of the Baolian stick since it's a little harder. Is there much difference between the spring in the Baolian stick and a hard Happ spring? I've bought another SFAE stick and I'm thinking about ordering a Happ stick with hard spring this time since I didn't like the standard spring.

Once again, thank you for making such an awesome guide!
I've never imagined one day I'd mod a stick myself.

[VI The Sixth]

any steps/guides/comments on installing a p360 into this?

I was thinking about buying this and modding it with happs + 360, but i'm not too sure if it's going to work.. or even if it's worth it. I know I would need to do some soldering. Anyone know where the 5v source is?

Thanks!

[mrpanda666]

hey ppl...just a quick question...is it possible to mod the sf:ae stick with a sanwa JLF-TP-8Y stick....and if so which mounting plate would i need

also ive heard that the sanwa snap ins fit perfectly into the Qds and have no problems going into the plexi...can someone confirm this....

thanx in advance... :tup:

[ArcadeStickMonk]

any steps/guides/comments on installing a p360 into this? Anyone know where the 5v source is?Get yourself a multimeter. No modder should be without one, and it is imperitive to installing an optical stick.

Tap the PCBs ground with one meter probe, and then poke around the PCB with the other. When you find a spot that reads 4.5v or above, you can tap that for the P360\Flash. A good place to start is where the cord attaches to the PCB.hey ppl...just a quick question...is it possible to mod the sf:ae stick with a sanwa JLF-TP-8Y stick....and if so which mounting plate would i needYou don't need a mounting plate necessarily, and using one would require you to rout out the current joystick inset to accomodate the plate. However, putting a JLF in there at all would result in the stick sitting much lower than I'd prefer; so if I was to do it, I'd rout the inset down to at least 1/4" anyway.

30mm will snap right into the plexi, but may be quite difficult to remove if ou ever needed to. You can crimp a QD onto about anything you need if you squeeze hard anough. I'd lok into getting the smaller QDs though, because there's always the possiblity of the QD coming off a month later at the wrong time.

[icon032]

Quick questions. I have a different PCB layout as the one on your mod, and i was wondering if it has any effect on the way its modded. Lastly is that, I've heard that Sanwa 30mm Snap-ins fit perfectly with the stock QD's, anyone confirm? Maybe my "Different" SFAC wont have those features. Ill get pics asap, thnx again

[canoshiz]

Quick questions. I have a different PCB layout as the one on your mod, and i was wondering if it has any effect on the way its modded. Lastly is that, I've heard that Sanwa 30mm Snap-ins fit perfectly with the stock QD's, anyone confirm? Maybe my "Different" SFAC wont have those features. Ill get pics asap, thnx again
If my .110 QDs (Sanwa size) work on the stock buttons, they'll work for Sanwa buttons. I actually have the same PCB problem as you, which is annoying, because I'm too lazy (and stupid) to figure out the layout on my own and therefore my SFAC has been sitting on the desk for a couple of months now. :sad: Feel free to ridicule me.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Are we sure that the wires were re-colored with the new PCB?

I'd gladly go back and add some more info to my guide if someone would pass data on the changes to me.

If the colors did NOT change, then the guide proceeds as normal. Maybe some of the optional plug removal stuff changes; I wouldn't know.

[Urzakor]

colors did change, as well as overall quality of the SFAC stick it seems. PCB is crappier too; and I've got 3 SFAC sticks compared to 2 of the "older" ones to attest.

I'd pass the data on, but I'm color blind and the only reason I mapped it right was due to guess and check >_>

[DaleNixon]

Hey ArcadeStickMonk I just want to say thanks for putting up this tutorial. I've never tried anything like this, but I found it super easy. I did go through the artwork like everyone else. I managed to get the nuts off without opening the artwork, but supergluing the screws in did not stop them from turning when I tried to reattach the nuts later.

Next thing I want to try is a redoctane arcade stick. I hear happ competition sticks don't fit into those very well. I may have to ghetto-rig it though since sanwa sticks and octogonal restrictor plates seem to be pretty hard to come by.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

PCB is crappierWhat on earth do you mean?

redoctane arcade stick. I hear happ competition sticks don't fit into those very well.They fit as well as they do into the SFAC. Perhaps whoever told you that was refering to how they sit a little low; they sit low in the SFAC too.sanwa sticks and octogonal restrictor plates seem to be pretty hard to come by.What, did something happen to Rod while I was away?

[DaleNixon]

Who is this mysterious "Rod"?

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Who is this mysterious "Rod"?http://www.himuragames.com/

[DaleNixon]

They fit as well as they do into the SFAC. Perhaps whoever told you that was refering to how they sit a little low; they sit low in the SFAC too.

This guy in the RedOctane arcade stick for $20 thread said he had to modify the box to get the competition stick to fit. Apparently the base is too long or something. Here's his picture:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v474/berserkur/blog%20stuff/DSC01360.jpg

From this thread:

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100635

[final_cut]

yes, they don't quite fit in the case. I'm having to do the same with mine. another alternative which I am doing as well, is using a sanwa stick and attaching it to the R O plate (they match) and just putting a circular restrictor plate in place of the oct. or the Square one. If you put a nut on the shaft just under the ball, it feels like an almost perfect height, and you can put a bat top on it. granted, it won't be a happ with a nice happ feel, but it'll be a hell of a lot better than what you get stock.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

This is from an old intro I did last year about various sticks. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/ArcadeStickMonk/Controllers/ASM-RO-06.jpg)

Note that they routed out an area for the base the joystick in my RO, but I didn't really need it. Perhaps RO the boxes have shrunk some. A similar rout job might do the trick.

[Urzakor]

for some strange reason, every once inawhile if u shift the cord around too much, it stops detecting the buttons/sticks and stops responding altogether. The PS2 still sees teh controller, but it doesn't respond at all

of the 4 sticks that me and my friends have, 3 of which are modded, they all share the problem so I'm guessing its not just individual cases, but rather sonething with teh PCB?

or maybe all teh sticks from the Santa Margarita area are just messed up >_>

[Arcas V]

I'm really new to this stuff... but anyway, Im done with the modd, but the buttons are really off. For one, I cant do chain or target combos (but other combos work fine :wtf:), also for 2 of the buttons there seems to be a delay..... I'm thinking i put the wire to far in but I really dont know. Any help on how I could fix this is much appreciated.

edit- nvm. stupid mistake- plugged the mp and fp into the wrong part.... and the combo thing was just me not use to the buttons being so responsive! lol

But much appreciation for the tutorial!! Now the stick makes love instead of rape lol.

ps. ill get some pics up as soon as possible

[FSgamer]

I meant to post this long time ago but anyways, here are some pics of my modded sticks:

http://www.geocities.com/fsgamer/SFH03.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/fsgamer/SFL04.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/fsgamer/SFsticks01.jpg

Once again, thank you ArcadeStickMonk for the awesome guide :tup:

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

You in the military dawg? Background looks like inside a barracks room and the last pic with the dressers look like government furnishing. Anyway, good shit.

[AmbiguousCrosup]

I'm requesting a sticky. This thread has helped out quite a bit of people including myself.

[FSgamer]

You in the military dawg? Background looks like inside a barracks room and the last pic with the dressers look like government furnishing. Anyway, good shit.
lol, that's my dorm room. Pretty ghetto place.

[BigEd80]

ArcadeStickMonk:

You might want to put a disclaimer on your tutorial. Not all SFAC interiors are the same. Wire mapping and location of PCB is different than yours.

[FSgamer]

ArcadeStickMonk:

You might want to put a disclaimer on your tutorial. Not all SFAC interiors are the same. Wire mapping and location of PCB is different than yours.
There was some talking about that already.

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2538475&postcount=112
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81712&page=5

[BigEd80]

There was some talking about that already.

http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2538475&postcount=112
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81712&page=5

Sorry I must have missed it.

[Figcoinc]

The plug and wires that go from the PCB board to the joystick. Is there a way to replace that. I screwed up a bit on the stripping part and now the stick portion is as responsive than I know it should be.

[ShingoKick]

Great walk through on how to mod the stick.

Biggest problems I had was adjusting the springs in the buttons because the ones I bought were old and stripping the wires for the new disconnects. It's really important to have a good wire stripper. I had to set mine on it's weakest setting so the wires didn't cut.

[j1nl0ng]

Does it work with dreamcast and PC/USB converters ??
Does the interface have 5+ for p360 ??

Nice mod :karate:



No, itwon't work on pc converters, I was playing Garou, and all that happened was poor 45 year old Terry was having convulsions.

[KOF freak]

I was thinking about buying the SF:Anniversary stick since I don't have an American style stick. I'd rather have a custom stick but I have no idea on how to make one. But i saw this thread and I'm wondering, is this easy to do for someone like me? And if so, how long will it take? thanx in advance.

[RawisJericho]

Hey guys, first I'd like to thank ArcadeStickMonk for his mod tutorial. I just bought two refurbished SFAC sticks from Nubytech on ebay. The total was $90 shipped, and my friend went in on a stick with me. When the sticks come in, I'm planning on modding both sticks. I'm just wanting to make sure I have the correct parts before I place an order.

Happ Competition Joystick (http://www.happcontrols.com/joysticks/competition_joy.htm)
Getting two of these, I'm going to go with black, I don't know what my friend wants just yet.

Happ Competition Push Buttons (http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/5896xxl.htm)
I am going to be buying 12-16 of these. I'm going to go with 6 buttons on my stick, but keep two extra buttons for my stick just in case I would like to put those in later on. I'll be using the red, white, and blue colors.

Button Plug (http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/52621200.htm)
Going to get 2-4 of these, depending on if my friend wants 6 or 8 buttons on his stick.

This is the part I'm not for sure about, I don't know which of the wrenches to get.

HORIZONTAL/ COMPETITION/
IPB PUSHBUTTON WRENCH (http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/53800200.htm)

IPB/VLT PUSHBUTTON
WRENCH (http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/53800300.htm)

I believe the first wrench is the one I am needing, but I'd like to know for sure just in case.

Other than the wire clamps, I think I should be all set to go. I do have a few more questions though.

1. Does most people use the original start/select buttons that came with the arcade stick? If not, what Happ buttons should I order?

2. If I go with the 6 button setup, do I just leave the 2 spare wires for the L1/L2/L/R buttons just sitting in the box or are they removed?

Also since the sticks are refurbished, I'm hoping that I get the old style PCB setup since it would make it a lot easier for me to mod with the guide. If I get the new style PCB, then I will take note of which colors goes to which buttons just in case ArcadeStickMonk would want to update his tutorial.

Sorry for so many questions, but this will be my first arcade stick and my first arcade stick mod(s). Thanks a lot for the help in advance, I can't wait to get started on everything!

[final_cut]

Hey guys, first I'd like to thank ArcadeStickMonk for his mod tutorial. I just bought two refurbished SFAC sticks from Nubytech on ebay. The total was $90 shipped, and my friend went in on a stick with me. When the sticks come in, I'm planning on modding both sticks. I'm just wanting to make sure I have the correct parts before I place an order.

http://www.happcontrols.com/joysticks/competition_joy.htm (Happ Competition Joystick)
Getting two of these, I'm going to go with black, I don't know what my friend wants just yet.

http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/5896xxl.htm (Happ Competition Push Buttons)
I am going to be buying 12-16 of these. I'm going to go with 6 buttons on my stick, but keep two extra buttons for my stick just in case I would like to put those in later on. I'll be using the red, white, and blue colors.

http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/52621200.htm (Button Plug)
Going to get 2-4 of these, depending on if my friend wants 6 or 8 buttons on his stick.

This is the part I'm not for sure about, I don't know which of the wrenches to get.

http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/53800200.htm (HORIZONTAL/ COMPETITION/
IPB PUSHBUTTON WRENCH)

http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/53800300.htm (IPB/VLT PUSHBUTTON
WRENCH)

I believe the first wrench is the one I am needing, but I'd like to know for sure just in case.

Other than the wire clamps, I think I should be all set to go. I do have a few more questions though.

1. Does most people use the original start/select buttons that came with the arcade stick? If not, what Happ buttons should I order?

2. If I go with the 6 button setup, do I just leave the 2 spare wires for the L1/L2/L/R buttons just sitting in the box or are they removed?

Also since the sticks are refurbished, I'm hoping that I get the old style PCB setup since it would make it a lot easier for me to mod with the guide. If I get the new style PCB, then I will take note of which colors goes to which buttons just in case ArcadeStickMonk would want to update his tutorial.

Sorry for so many questions, but this will be my first arcade stick and my first arcade stick mod(s). Thanks a lot for the help in advance, I can't wait to get started on everything!


I don't think those links are going where you want them to go, because I see no wrenches when I click them. As far as the start buttons go, I'd say leave them, not sure the happ start buttons are the same size. If you don't have the older version of the stick, be prepared with some new quick disconnects, because with one of my sticks, the wires were almost impossible to get off of the buttons, I had to just cut them.
Lastly, I would move all the buttons one space to the right, and take out the right-most buttons on the top and bottom row- I seem to remember having a problem not being able to reconfigure them in SFAC, and I was always pressing them by accident- my hand always migrated to the right-most buttons. Sorry, thats about all I can help you with. (or hinder)

[RawisJericho]

Thanks for the tips, I also fixed the links.

[RawisJericho]

I got my arcade stick in, now I'm just waiting on the parts to arrive. The only thing I am worried about is having to clamp the daisy chain ground wires. How hard is it?

[RawisJericho]

I got my arcade stick in, now I'm just waiting on the parts to arrive. The only thing I am worried about is having to clamp the daisy chain ground wires. How hard is it?

[RawisJericho]

I got my arcade stick in, now I'm just waiting on the parts to arrive. The only thing I am worried about is having to clamp the daisy chain ground wires. How hard is it?

[FSgamer]

I got my arcade stick in, now I'm just waiting on the parts to arrive. The only thing I am worried about is having to clamp the daisy chain ground wires. How hard is it?
Annoying but not really that hard. When I modded my sticks, I twisted both wires together then inserted the disconnect. Also, I stripped off that red plastic thing from the disconnect so I could see what was happening and in that way, I could make sure the wires wouldn't fall off the disconnect.

[mrpanda666]

does anyone have a template of the button and joystick layout???....so i could get some custom artwork printed out...

[ytwojay]

Very impressive, ArcadeStickMonk.

I have a question about the Nuby stick itself: is it really that bad? I haven't had a chance to play with it, but I did notice that the stick/buttons were taller than normal when I saw it at Evolution. I tried searching the forums, and this was the most relevant topic.

Is it playable without switching out the buttons/stick?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

does anyone have a template of the button and joystick layout???....so i could get some custom artwork printed out...


Yes my young Padwan. It is within a link to Cd_Visions's page that is located on the Customs Arcade Stick Thread. Downloads/it'll be a ms word file and you'll be able to make adjustments to the buttons and etc on your own once you have that file up on your pc. Holla.

[RawisJericho]

My parts should be in tomorrow, they are currently in the next state over from me. Hopefully I can have my arcade stick modded by Monday or Tuesday night. Thanks again for the guide ArcadeStickMonk.

[RawisJericho]

OK the parts came in today, but I have two questions.

The first is what is the best way to take the molding off from around the edges? This is the first mod I'm attempting and I don't want to mess it up.

The second question is about the competition push buttons. The ones that came in to me sink down in the middle. Are these the correct buttons or is the button supposed to be flat all the way across?

[Knuckledust]

The second question is about the competition push buttons. The ones that came in to me sink down in the middle. Are these the correct buttons or is the button supposed to be flat all the way across?
You can still use those. They're simply just a different style(concave) as oposed to the buttons used in the tutorial (convex) but still the same button function wise.

[RawisJericho]

You can still use those. They're simply just a different style(concave) as oposed to the buttons used in the tutorial (convex) but still the same button function wise.

Thanks for the reply, I figured I could still use them, but I don't really care too much for the feel of them. Which is a more popular button out of the two? The convex or concave style?

[Knuckledust]

Convex buttons seem to be the most popular now a days. Both arcades I frequent have convex buttons on their MvC2 cabs, they're easier on the hands (I think so anyways) for mashing, they feel quicker for me too.

I would say go with convex if it's worth it to you to ship back your concaves and then have to wait again or just get a set of convex and have your concaves handy in the unlikely event that a convex button goes dead. I'm tight on money right now so "I" would go with the former.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

OK the parts came in today, but I have two questions.

The first is what is the best way to take the molding off from around the edges? This is the first mod I'm attempting and I don't want to mess it up.

The second question is about the competition push buttons. The ones that came in to me sink down in the middle. Are these the correct buttons or is the button supposed to be flat all the way across?

Okay, the best way to remove the T-Molding is to use split it apart fromt he back of the arcade stick where there is a cut and comes together (lines up or whatever) Really easy.

You bought the ultimate pushbuttons instead of the competitions. No biggie really, but for most fighters every usually op for the latter (competitions). Stick with what you got for now because shipping them back is going to cost you. Check this post again later. I'm going to edit it with a link for some really cheap comps off ebay. I just order 12 green competition pb off of a seller who sells them for $1.49 ea vice the $2 that they go for on Happs. I saved nearly $8 by ordering through that ebay seller and I got my shipment in 2 days! I paid $17.change plus only $4.05 for shipping (anything over 7 buttons is and only $4.05, so it was a great deal) where as from happs if the shipment isn't over $25 you're charged $10 for handling fees, plus you have tax!! YIKES! So keep an eye out.

[RawisJericho]

Okay, the best way to remove the T-Molding is to use split it apart fromt he back of the arcade stick where there is a cut and comes together (lines up or whatever) Really easy.

You bought the ultimate pushbuttons instead of the competitions. No biggie really, but for most fighters every usually op for the latter (competitions). Stick with what you got for now because shipping them back is going to cost you. Check this post again later. I'm going to edit it with a link for some really cheap comps off ebay. I just order 12 green competition pb off of a seller who sells them for $1.49 ea vice the $2 that they go for on Happs. I saved nearly $8 by ordering through that ebay seller and I got my shipment in 2 days! I paid $17.change plus only $4.05 for shipping (anything over 7 buttons is and only $4.05, so it was a great deal) where as from happs if the shipment isn't over $25 you're charged $10 for handling fees, plus you have tax!! YIKES! So keep an eye out.

I started to pull the molding off from the back, and it seems like it is glued on. The molding looked like it was starting to rip down the middle, and there is some modling stuck in the wood. I wasn't for sure if I was pulling it off right or not, so I've stopped for now.

[Chozen1]

Rotendo, check your IM on yahoo and get back to me when you have a chance. Thanks

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Chozen1: I'm still online and will keep it up (yahooIM) for another 30 minutes. If anything, you can always drop me a pm here. Oh, and yes... I'll be glad to help you out.

[RawisJericho]

I just finished the mod about an hour ago. I originally left the happ spring in, but quickly changed it with the bao-lain. Even though it took me a good four hours to do this mod, I'm really happy with it and I am surprised everything is working right.

The only thing that sucks is that I can kinda see the tape around the edges from when I took the molding off, and there is a small space between where the molding comes together. I might try to re align it tomorrow, but it is getting late and I need to head to bed. Thanks a lot to all of those who helped me out along the way!

Oh, and one more thing. I couldn't get the e clip that came with the Happ stick to go on, so I put the bao-lian one on there instead. Did anyone else have to do the same thing?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Nope. I don't know why you were having a hard time. You don't use your bare fingers/hands. I use like a magazine, plastic spoon, or whatever is available nearby. I lay the topside of the stick on my lap/chest with top of the joystick pressing in (giving me 2 free hands), then I push in the actuator, insert e-clip with the other onto desired ring, then push it in with some other object with 2 hands or you can do it with only one (with a spoon, as if you were holding a piece of paper using your thumb and the 2nd knuckle of your forefinger... looks like when you're pinning someone's thumb in thumb war)

I don't think I can make it sound any easier than that. :smile:

[contak]

Hey Rotendo where's that link for the comp buttons?

[mrpanda666]

so will sanwa screw ins fit into the button holes in this mod...or am i just better off sticking to competition buttons?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

http://stores.ebay.com/Bottlenoses-Happ-Super-Store_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZtornadoterrysdotQQssPag eNameZSTRKQ3aMEFSQ3aMESOI

[FSgamer]

Oh, and one more thing. I couldn't get the e clip that came with the Happ stick to go on, so I put the bao-lian one on there instead. Did anyone else have to do the same thing?
You're probably having a hard time because the e-clip is brand new and it hasn't been streched yet. Try again, you should be able to get it in place.
Nope. I don't know why you were having a hard time. You don't use your bare fingers/hands. I use like a magazine, plastic spoon, or whatever is available nearby. I lay the topside of the stick on my lap/chest with top of the joystick pressing in (giving me 2 free hands), then I push in the actuator, insert e-clip with the other onto desired ring, then push it in with some other object with 2 hands or you can do it with only one (with a spoon, as if you were holding a piece of paper using your thumb and the 2nd knuckle of your forefinger... looks like when you're pinning someone's thumb in thumb war)

I don't think I can make it sound any easier than that. :smile:
It can be even easier if you use pliers. It doesn't require any strength and it doesn't hurt your fingers.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

True, true, I use whatever is available to me at the moment, but a pair of pliers is the best tool to use for the job. So much easier that my 1 yr old niece can do it.

[Best Kind Boxer]

Sorry for the maybe stupid question, but..

Where can I buy one of these SFAC sticks?? Preferably in Canada?? They look like a really nice collector's item!!

[Best Kind Boxer]

nevermind.. I found lik-sang :looney:

[ozone990]

Personally I wouldn't modding the SFAS simply because the PCB is a POS. I recently picked the stick up and the buttons didn't work all the time. Also, it doesn't work on the PC either. Really fricking nice housing though; too bad the components suck.

On a side note, I need to get a stick now that I've returned my SFAS. I was looking into the HRAP2 but I want to use it on mame also so I need those additional buttons. Also I'd like to use it for the neogeo so that's another reason I need the extra buttons (L,R). But those buttons appear to be in the way, so what about the HRAP? A few smudges on the mirror finish is fine with me so long as it's the best stick with an 8 button layout available. I have two x-arcade 1player sticks and they are really nice but they slide around too much on my lap. I found that the SFAS was great on my lap or on a table; how is the HRAP stick on the lap?

[Proverb]

I find it funny that the Nubytech outlet store (which sells "fixed" SFA Stick returns on ebay 2 for the price of one) is now modding the sticks with happ parts and selling them on ebay for 99.99. I didn't see a shipping price, however. The Happ modded ones are sold individually and cost about as much as one would pay if he bought the stick and modded it himself. Those who are hesitant about buying one for fear of never actually modding it, this link is for you.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Street-Fighter-Arcade-Joystick-PS2-XBOX-Happ-Parts_W0QQitemZ8260115710QQcategoryZ21188QQrdZ1QQc mdZViewItem

But I will say that it's pretty easy to mod, and I modded mine without the tut, especially if you already have the parts lying around.

[RawisJericho]

I find it funny that the Nubytech outlet store (which sells "fixed" SFA Stick returns on ebay 2 for the price of one) is now modding the sticks with happ parts and selling them on ebay for 99.99. I didn't see a shipping price, however. The Happ modded ones are sold individually and cost about as much as one would pay if he bought the stick and modded it himself. Those who are hesitant about buying one for fear of never actually modding it, this link is for you.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Street-Fighter-Arcade-Joystick-PS2-XBOX-Happ-Parts_W0QQitemZ8260115710QQcategoryZ21188QQrdZ1QQc mdZViewItem

But I will say that it's pretty easy to mod, and I modded mine without the tut, especially if you already have the parts lying around.

My friend went in with me and we bought two of the refurb sticks from the Nubytech outlet. I modded my stick and my friend is keeping his stock for the moment. It cost me $45 for the stick, and 30 for parts, so in the end it was only $75. So it isn't too bad of a deal IMO.

Also, isn't the HAPP competiton stick better than the ultimate?

[icon032]

where is the Nubytech outlet store located in? i would like to purchase one of these

[RawisJericho]

where is the Nubytech outlet store located in? i would like to purchase one of these

On ebay, click on the link three posts up.

[RawisJericho]

My stick seems like it is loose as hell. Are there any better springs I can put in it so it feels a lot tighter? If so, do you have any suggestions or links? Currently I am using the bao-lian spring that came in my refurb stick.

[Chozen1]

try using the original one it came with and see what happens. btw, did you refer to the monks wiring and did you have any wires leftover that were not in use or did you put in all buttons rather than 6? I'm doing this for a buddy @ work and the wiring colors are not right in regards to monks guide; they're different colors (grn,prpl,ornge,grey,rd,blu,yllo and brn) joystick is (yllo,ornge,rd,wte & brn) grounds was common sense as they're daisy chained together (blk) any idea? I'll try my notes and see what happens but im going for the 6 button deal. let you know if it works. also, i found a "trick" if you strip a bolt as it happened to me but i remedied the situation with a zip tie o_O

[RawisJericho]

try using the original one it came with and see what happens. btw, did you refer to the monks wiring and did you have any wires leftover that were not in use or did you put in all buttons rather than 6? I'm doing this for a buddy @ work and the wiring colors are not right in regards to monks guide; they're different colors (grn,prpl,ornge,grey,rd,blu,yllo and brn) joystick is (yllo,ornge,rd,wte & brn) grounds was common sense as they're daisy chained together (blk) any idea? I'll try my notes and see what happens but im going for the 6 button deal. let you know if it works. also, i found a "trick" if you strip a bolt as it happened to me but i remedied the situation with a zip tie o_O

I went the 6 button way, and just left the L/R wires hanging in there. I got a little lazy though, and I didn't put the last two wires on the daisy chain. I need to redo that part just in case I want to play a fighter that uses all 8 buttons.

Just draw you a picture of the inside and label everything with what color wire is on each button. It'll be the easiest way for you to do it.

[Chozen1]

also forgot to mention, in another sticky for the hardware section, rotendo posted you could get 16-14 .187 quick disconnects (fem) for 8.95; that's what I'm using for my buddies, just wondering if you used the same or the ones monk used (I'm thinking u used the latter) hopefully rotendo's words won't let me down on the disconnects he recommended as I've already rigged the deal with the disconnects he posted.

[RawisJericho]

I used 22-18 .250 quick disconnects from radio shack. The item number for them is 64-4040.

[NiteWalker]

I used 22-18 .250 quick disconnects from radio shack. The item number for them is 64-4040.

This is where I get my qd's:
.187" (http://cgi.ebay.com/100-Red-Quick-Disconnect-Terminal-22-18-Wire-187-Tab_W0QQitemZ7523335911QQcategoryZ7285QQcmdZViewIt em)

And they also have .110" ones for sanwa sticks:
.110" (http://cgi.ebay.com/100-Red-Quick-Disconnect-Terminal-22-18-Wire-110-Tab_W0QQitemZ7523335582QQcategoryZ7285QQcmdZViewIt em)

Only 6.25 a bag/100.

[Mansize Rooster]

as I'm waiting for my parts to arrive I have a quick question, since i am going to be removing the buttons to the right and using plugs instead where and what do I do with the wires that were used for those buttons?

Thanks for whoever can help.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Just leave them be. For one day, if and I repeat, IF you decide to resell your stick for whatever reason, you may want to hold on to you happ parts and re-install the factory buttons. Then again, whoever you may be selling it too will want to keep it modified, but we all know that is not ever going to happen. I have my two wires loose in the box. You can also tape the ends with eletric tape if you want.

Note: Keep in mind that those buttons, depending if you also switched around the wires affects the XBOX button configurations if you play on your XBOX. So it'd be best to keep those wires and leave them be.

[Mansize Rooster]

so, in a sense I will have not have left or right triggers, so I wouldn't be able to switch color outfits on my characters. correct? but gameplay will not be affected?

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

It depends on how you modified your SFA stick. For instance:

I not only modified my stick with happ parts, but I also re-routed the wiring so that when you play a Capcom fighter, it'll be in Capcom's default button configuration. L1=Fierce (3) and R1=Roundhouse (6) L2/R2 will not be used, unless you want that PPP/KKK functional. Other than that, there really is no worries as that L1=L trigger and R1=R trigger respectively for the XBOX.

[Mansize Rooster]

Thanks alot for clearing things up for me.

At ease Marine!

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Okay now, you done went too far with that At ease thing, lol. Unless you were once a Marine and held a higher rank it's cool. I make the calls where I work! :lol:

Glad to have helped you out.

[ragnarok]

Yoo people i gots a question, can u put a sawna stick like the one from himura games with the mounting plate in to it? cuz i thought u could but now it doesnt look like it. has anyone put one in, post pics Help MeH.

ABM out~

[NiteWalker]

You can but you have to cut/rout the space where the stick will go. Then just rout/chisel a recess where the mounting plate will sit so the screws that hold it in are below the surface (so the plexi sits flush). A little bit more work but can be done.

[ragnarok]

You can but you have to cut/rout the space where the stick will go. Then just rout/chisel a recess where the mounting plate will sit so the screws that hold it in are below the surface (so the plexi sits flush). A little bit more work but can be done.

yeah i see what ur sayng but what to i need to do after that?

[ragnarok]

You can but you have to cut/rout the space where the stick will go. Then just rout/chisel a recess where the mounting plate will sit so the screws that hold it in are below the surface (so the plexi sits flush). A little bit more work but can be done.

i see what ur saying but what do i need to do after that?

[NiteWalker]

Mount the stick in the recess you mad for it and connect the wires. Easiest way for a sanwa is to get the wiring harness. As for the wires inside the sfac stick, label them with masking tape so you know what wire goes where. Also pay attention to the ground wires. Yours may have 1 or 2 seperate grounds but both I have modded had 2 (one for buttons, other for joystick/start/select).

[Mansize Rooster]

Got done modding my stick last night and oh man what a difference it makes. The whole process took me a around 3 hours, it was fairly easy, the hardest part was figuring out where to put the wires back especially with having two buttons out of the picture. It was the best thing I could of done for my hands, now i'm a winner and my hands don't feel like they are getting raped, HA!

[xXxDa_RaGexXx]

I'm trying to wire up a P360 i tapped into the ground that was used for the sticks direction and i found a .5v source coming from the headset. But for some reason the character doesn't move when i move the stick. It only spazes out randomly. Does anyone know whats wrong? Could it be that I have a bad .5v source and need to find another?

[NiteWalker]

If you have a multimeter you can find it by touching one end to the middle pin of the PS plug and the other end to one of the controller wire points and see which one completes the circuit. A continuity tester works even better. I got one from lowe's for $3.
Continuity Tester (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=87136-1781-GCT-304A)
Lights up when circuit is completed.

[xXxDa_RaGexXx]

still no luck. maybe i'm using the multi-meter wrong. What setting should it be on?

[NiteWalker]

What kind of multi meter are you using? Pic?
I use this one:
CenTech Multi Meter (http://www.ingram-tech.com/products/meter.jpg)
I put it the "ohm" setting (the one that looks like the "omega" sign) and set it to 20,000. If you complete a circuit it will read "zero".

[Prometheus1024]

Questions answered - thanks:)

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Okay, just a general question for other SFA stick owners/modders. I've noticed that even after replacing the joystick, the diagonals are horrible! Especially when playing a game with a lot of qcf motions.

After noticing this 'design flaw' I came up with this theory: Because the hole from the joystick is smaller than what many normally drill (1 1/8), it restricts the joystick to provide a true 360 feel. Sure, it hits the standard up, down, left, and right just fine, but the real problem with it is getting the actuator to hit the diagonals correctly. I know that I'm not the only one who have witnessed this problem. A friend of mine was complaining about the diagonals on it as well.

For the record, just in case it may prove as a factor in this case, the joystick installed is a competition joystick. Really don't remember how well the stock joystick fared, but it was far from great.

The remedy: To drill a larger hole by widening it to a 1 1/8 size like the other button holes. This should provide adequate movement for the joystick to hit the diagonals and to perform 360 moves/motions.

However, that will have to wait until I get it back from a friend who is borrowing it. I have another one still in its box and in the garage, but it is only for collection purposes so someone else is going to have to try that out in the meantime.

[NiteWalker]

Really? I never noticed the QCF problems. I'm pretty sure I noticed the smaller hole when I did my SFAC mods and I thought there would be a problem with the comp shaft rubbing on the sides of the smaller hole but it's not an issue with me. I'll try to post a few pics of what I mean later when I get my camera back. Are you sure your comp is centered in the mounting area?
This is my theory; and I'm not shooting you down Rotendo, I just am presenting another theory as to why the stick seems to have bad diagonals. I think that when a comp stick is mounted it's about 1/8" too high so it seems like you have to push the stick further to activate a direction. The solution here would be to cut a mounting shim out of 1/8" MDF or hardboard. This would lower the stick to the 5/8" depth ideal (I think) for comp sticks.
What games were you testing with the stick? I tried CVS2, SF3:3S, GG#R, SFA3, T5, TTT all work fine for me. You just have to remember to give the stick a bit more of a push to activate switches. Not much of an issue with comp sticks that have worn in springs I think.
Anyway, an excellent point to bring up Rotendo. Thanks
NW

[Cryptlord]

Is there a tutorial for putting sanwa parts in the SFAC stick?

[diablosrising]

I'm trying to wire up a P360 i tapped into the ground that was used for the sticks direction and i found a .5v source coming from the headset. But for some reason the character doesn't move when i move the stick. It only spazes out randomly. Does anyone know whats wrong? Could it be that I have a bad .5v source and need to find another?
.5v isn't the same as +5v, which is was the 360 needs, I believe. I'm not positive on this, but I thought it was +5v. That would explain why your character wasn't moving.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

I have played SFA for PS2 (3S/SFII), Marvel for the DC. It's not that the diagonals don't respond at all, its just difficult. For most qcf motions I have to perform df/f+ to and stress the df. If I try the everyday d, df, f+, the d responds but would nullify the df. So to put it simply, I perform my 'fireball' motions df, f+ and I don't want that. I think the biggest notice I had was playing with Magneto and not being able to do ad/df+, which is a neccessity for his much of his various rom infs.
I can try removing the white doohicky on the shaft so it will ride lower and see what happens. I know it's not because the stick is mounted too high. My latest stick is mounted much 'higher' and plays outstanding. More research I guess... something to address in my upcoming tutorial. Not that the one provided on this thread isn't great already, it'll just be my method/experience on the mod.
I'm not the only one who has had this problem either. My buddies are saying the same thing and they pound and smash on the buttons like it is a whack-a-mole coin up! &