***The Inside***

[TheRealNeoGeo]

What do you guys insidewiring of your stick look like?
This is mine:
http://arkadesticks.com/bak.jpg
http://arkadesticks.com/inne.jpg

[ashurax]

my wiring (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/mike_n_ike_108/DSC00287.jpg)

[LTK]

Neat.

Just wondering, what is the reason for using the white strip for the wires (is it called a barrier strip?)

[TheRealNeoGeo]

ashurax
Niceeeee!

LTK
Thanks! Don`t know what you mean but the white is someting to hold the wires together, yes. I live in Sweden so I don`t know what it is called in USA, sorry.

[ashurax]

ashurax
Niceeeee!

LTK
Thanks! Don`t know what you mean but the white is someting to hold the wires together, yes. I live in Sweden so I don`t know what it is called in USA, sorry.

thx and compliments to ur stick wiring too.

yes that white thing is called a barrier strip in the US. i have some in mine cept they're hard to see since they're black.

[gaijin]

The wiring on both of those boxes is so nice and clean it makes my shit look like a mess by comparison. I definitely need to work on that shit... :(

[ArcadeStickMonk]

The white strip is what I've seen called a European style barrier strip.

If doing a unit with a PCB I would likely use a barrier strip of some sort; it lets you re-map the buttons so you don't have to do it in software.

Since I'm planning a series of DB15 wired sticks, I'm trying to move off the barrier strips for something else, and use molex connectors in my project boxes.

Here's a rather messy RO mod. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/ArcadeStickMonk/Controllers/Project%20Box%20Protos/ASM-DB15-Protostick.jpg)
Here's my Namco mod. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/ArcadeStickMonk/Controllers/Namco%20mod/ASM-NamcoSanwa-internal.jpg)
And because I'm already hosting it, here's the inside of my MAS. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/ArcadeStickMonk/Controllers/ASM-MAS-5vGrnd-01.jpg)

[ShinHed]

My Dynamat lined, db15 wired, gunmetal T5 awaiting buttons and a stick.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/JewGal/DSC00257.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/JewGal/DSC00276.jpg

[TheRealNeoGeo]

ArcadeStickMonk
Ah, so that is what everybody is meaning by barrier strip, the white thing that I hooked up all the wires to, aha. Well, here in Sweden it is called "kopplingsplint" (hookup strip) or we call them sockerbitar (sugarcubes) ^_^.

[zapatistab]

http://www.arcadecab.com/images/Visitor_Pics/Ben-P1010359-lg.jpg

Here's my contribution.

[The Mullah]

http://members.lycos.co.uk/randomscrubs/

heres my site, its got the pictures under my sticks. my wirings a mess, i should tidy it up but i'm afraid i'll dislodge something and have to spend ages trying to figure out whats wrong again.

my box design is simple, see snaaake?

[KungFu-tse]

ArcadeStickMonk
Ah, so that is what everybody is meaning by barrier strip, the white thing that I hooked up all the wires to, aha. Well, here in Sweden it is called "kopplingsplint" (hookup strip) or we call them sockerbitar (sugarcubes) ^_^.

Fortunately, RadioShack sells both types:

http://www.radioshack.com/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F003%5F009%5F000&Page=1

[ChainZ]

i was wondering fellas. what is the exact measurement from the stick to the buttons?

[The Mullah]

I think if people posted pics of the inside it'd be a useful thread. i know i scoured the board for wiring shots when i was doing mine.

measurements from stick to buttons are entirely your own preference. My stick is a bit of a big'un but as you can see i don't have little girl hands and so the spacing is just right for me. If you go by the distance darkside and DF use between the buttons and stick you wont go far wrong. they're sticks look comfy to play on to me.

[gaijin]

i was wondering fellas. what is the exact measurement from the stick to the buttons?

I don't think there's a set measurement of what that should be. As long as it's comfortable, it will work. I myself like to put everything as close together as possible without losing that comfort space. I think in my latest designs that puts the center of the stick almost exactly four inches away from the center of the jab/short buttons.

However, I don't use a specified SFII layout either because I like to play some of the early NeoGeo fighters, too. So I sneak another button in just below and to the left of the short button.

[ChainZ]

alright man thanx...i appreciate it

[TheRealNeoGeo]

There has to be more people with pics of there sticks from the inside :D.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Here comes another (poor quality of the pic, sorry):
http://arkadesticks.com/rick1flash.jpg
http://arkadesticks.com/rick1inne.jpg
Basicly the same as above I guess ^_^.

[ChainZ]

Here are pix of my guts of a stick i'm selling.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/hav1k007/P1060032.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/hav1k007/P1060033.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/hav1k007/both-akuma-sticks.jpg

[TheRealNeoGeo]

ChainZ
That is nice man, good work! Is that dual shock or digital pad?
Keep it up!

[ChainZ]

ChainZ
That is nice man, good work! Is that dual shock or digital pad?
Keep it up!


Thanx man. Yah its a ps1 pad. they're cheap..lol

[TheRealNeoGeo]

I`ll bump this thread up so people can put up there insides ^_^.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Thought I bump this thread with some of my own pics:
http://www.arkadesticks.com/Untitled-1%20copy.jpg
http://www.arkadesticks.com/panelen.jpg

Please, if anyone has anything to share, then please do so.

[Kingbuzzo]

Thought I bump this thread with some of my own pics:
http://www.arkadesticks.com/Untitled-1%20copy.jpg
http://www.arkadesticks.com/panelen.jpg

Please, if anyone has anything to share, then please do so.

What series and model of psone pad are you using there?

[ChainZ]

SHOW OFF...lol just kidding...love da work

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Kingbuzzo
That is Series-H PSOne Dual Shock.

ChainZ
Hi! Yeah, put some of your work in it as well, it is great for other stickbuilders to see how people do.

[bhytre]

Here's mine,used plexi to cover the bottom because it's already heavy enough and because it doesn't get scratched up anyway :D
Click me (http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/9025/plexitopunderneath5sd.jpg)

[Landel]

Here's mine,used plexi to cover the bottom because it's already heavy enough and because it doesn't get scratched up anyway :D
Click me (http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/9025/plexitopunderneath5sd.jpg)

DB15 slot? I'd like to see how your pcb modules fit into there! Looks like you made a little compartment for them. Looks a bit too small for an Xbox pcb though.

[Landel]

Oooh, er... for the record, here are mine:
http://www.frozen-studios.com/joystick/12.jpg
http://www.frozen-studios.com/joystick/13.jpg

H-series PS1 digital pad.

[454Casull]

Oooh, er... for the record, here are mine:
http://www.frozen-studios.com/joystick/12.jpg
http://www.frozen-studios.com/joystick/13.jpg

H-series PS1 digital pad.
In terms of utter cleanliness, yours is the best I've ever seen.

[coN]

A custom stick i built - http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mode879/detail?.dir=7fc7&.dnm=2c44.jpg&.src=ph

A messy Namco mod - http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mode879/detail?.dir=6804&.dnm=b3bd.jpg&.src=ph

My other Namco mods are cleaner but eh, im too lazy to upload...

[bhytre]

DB15 slot? I'd like to see how your pcb modules fit into there! Looks like you made a little compartment for them. Looks a bit too small for an Xbox pcb though.
DB25 actually :D
There is enough room for most controller pcbs,my gamecube,sega saturn,pc,snes project box all fit inside perfectly :)
The xbox one i use(street fighter pad) sticks a little bit out,but not that much.
And i made the project boxes with mdf and plexi,so it's really thin.

Check my new topic to see more pictures. :clap:

[buyproduct]

My wiring is atrocious but here it is. Enjoy laughing at it.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y252/buyproduct/DSC00202.jpg

[454Casull]

buyproduct that's better than mine. :)

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Thought I bump my old thread up by adding some insidepics...

http://arkadesticks.com/gaarafini8.jpg
http://arkadesticks.com/gaarafini1.jpg
http://arkadesticks.com/gaarafini2.jpg
http://arkadesticks.com/gaarafini3.jpg
http://arkadesticks.com/gaarafini6.jpg

Please, if anybody got ANYTHING to show, do it.

[Ramon]

Looking good, perhaps I should get the inside pictures of my sticks when I finish them. I love the inside glance of arcade sticks. Especially if the creator took time to make it look good both inside and outside.

Later,

[ChainZ]

Here aer the guts of a recent stick I made that i am currently selling

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/hav1k007/new-cammy3.jpg

[bloussant]

@ The Mullah...What kinda of xbox controller PCB are you using? Do you have any probs with it?

[Demon Dash]

What are these for? Whats they're perpose?

http://img282.imageshack.us/img282/3/untitled4ft.jpg

Apologies for editing the image TRNG

[shrimpnoodles]

What are these for? Whats they're perpose?

http://img282.imageshack.us/img282/3/untitled4ft.jpg

Apologies for editing the image TRNG


they serve as a bridge between the pad and the buttons/joystick. just in case you don't want to solder the buttons wire directly on the the pad or use quick disconnects for reason of replacing the buttons or if the pad ever breaks, replace the pads. wellyou get the idea. buy them at radioshack if you want one. they're european barrier strips.

[Demon Dash]

Ahh, I see, makes sense. thanks.

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Demon Dash
No problem. This is better showing you how it was ment to be:
http://arkadesticks.com/gaarafini1.jpg
http://arkadesticks.com/gaarafini2.jpg

[Demon Dash]

Demon Dash
No problem. This is better showing you how it was ment to be:
http://arkadesticks.com/gaarafini1.jpg
http://arkadesticks.com/gaarafini2.jpg

Damn thats sexy.

So those barrior strips, they're just a way of seperating the wiring into two different parts right?

[acido]

heres one of my sticks i made =)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v455/aeg_36/finally2.jpg

heres the very first stick i ever made =)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v455/aeg_36/Image41.jpg

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Demon Dash
Exactly!

acido
Love the see trough ^_^.

[popo187]

TRNG: what kind of camera do you use to take pictures?

[TheRealNeoGeo]

http://www.steves-digicams.com/2005_reviews/ex-z750.html

*7.2 Megapixel
*2,5" screen
*MPEG4 movie (640x480)
.................................................. ........

[acido]

http://www.steves-digicams.com/2005_reviews/ex-z750.html

*7.2 Megapixel
*2,5" screen
*MPEG4 movie (640x480)
.................................................. ........

so thats why your pics are so clear :clap: , i only use the camera on my cellphone so my pics are grainy and so small :crybaby:

[Switch Blade]

Oooh, er... for the record, here are mine:
http://www.frozen-studios.com/joystick/12.jpg
http://www.frozen-studios.com/joystick/13.jpg

H-series PS1 digital pad.
WoW, that is impressive! :thumbu:

I guess that's the way, it should look like. I got a question concerning the soldering of these cables. What if I solder them wrong, can I desolder them again or is everything fucked up, if I do it wrong?

I'm building my first custom arcade stick next week, so I'm a little bit nervous :sweat: :rofl:

[Landel]

You can always desolder no prob. But the more you keep messing with it, the muckier it gets. Solder can go "bad", so if you desolder, try to remove solder residue using a desoldering braid (desoldering wick).

Practice on something first.

[Switch Blade]

You can always desolder no prob. But the more you keep messing with it, the muckier it gets. Solder can go "bad", so if you desolder, try to remove solder residue using a desoldering braid (desoldering wick).

Practice on something first.
Thanks for your help. I hope, I'm not gonna mess it up. I'll do my best.

[Paik4Life]

I thought I'd try to revive this thread by added the inside of my finkle stick. I got the case used from ConKhi and got the parts and wired everything myself. It's a little more disorganized that I'd like it to be, but that's mainly because I couldn't easily attach the grounding bar and barrier strip anywhere but the wood piece I put in at the bottom. I won't have this problem with the cases I am currently making since they are made out of blocks of cherry.

http://photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/?action=view&current=finklestickippoinside.jpg

~Paik

[Ramon]

Well here is the inside of the stick I modded recently. Enjoy.

http://img64.imageshack.us/my.php?image=inside14fj.jpg
http://img64.imageshack.us/my.php?im...sidepcb5jl.jpg
http://img64.imageshack.us/my.php?im...buttons8fx.jpg

~Goodbye

[Paik4Life]

That's a clean mod you have there, Ramon. I like it : )

EDIT: Ramon, what's that stuff you're using to organize the wires called? And where did you get them? Is it just normal heatshrink or something else?

~Paik

[Ramon]

Paik4life:

I'm guessing you refer to that tubing that is encased around the wires, that is tubing from an old game pad that I had laying around, it was broken, so I took the cord, cut it, pulled the wires out from inside, and just had the empty tube. got that, and went ahead, string some cord through, and that was it.

Sorry it took so long to reply, I had forgot about this thread.

~Goodbye

[Paik4Life]

After having a discussion with Per on MSN, I remembered this thread and thought I'll put some pics of the inside of my new sticks:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Cap%20Hustler/47f99232.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Shodokan/be924ccb.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Stainable%20Case/ff4ce027.jpg

The second one doesn't have any organization because it was a stick built for a trade. I had to save by not including the grounding bar kit (thing in the middle with the black ground wires attached to it) or the barrier strip. Also because it was an Xbox Reflex stick hack, I wanted to keep the memory card section in tact with the PCB without modding it. The location of the memory card slot also would have gotten in the way.

~Paik

[SteveTren]

Finishing up my stick.. I used all gold quick disconnects for the Sanwa buttons. Just need to pop in the PCB which I'm about to do. Tell me what you think!
Steve
http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/55/dsc006586ci.jpg
http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/8893/dsc006597yc.jpg

[Paik4Life]

That's a pretty good layout you have there. It'll be nice and organized when it's all said and done. Is that a Chainz case? It looks like his work. I had the opportunity to check out his work first hand this past week so it looks very similar.

Just to give you some tips (don't take this as any kind of negative criticism mind you, just as friendly advice), the vertical barrier strip isn't necessary if you're daisy-chaining. You can have obviously have the ground from the PCB attach to the JLF-H and continue on to the buttons or vice versa. Also attaching the JLF-H to the barrier strip is also kind of a waste. If you are soldering to the PCB, it'd just be better to have the wires go directly to the PCB. If you're using the A-series solderless hack, then just connect the directional wires to some solid gauge wire by using barrel connectors or by using some male/female QDs and have the solid gauge end go directly into the ribbon connector. For an example of the latter, see here:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a141/Paik4Life/Stainable%20Case/ff4ce027.jpg

I actually got that particular wire harness and it came with the vinyl insulated male .187 QDs already attached so it was easier. But even for my other JLF-Hs where they don't come with QDs attached, I do this. Doing this will cut down on the cost of the additional barrier strip and also make the inside even neater than they are presently.

The gold QDs are a nice touch but ultimately not worth the money and performance-wise you're not going to tell any sort of difference for stick building. For car audio and such they make more sense although still are overpriced and overrated in my opinion.

Again, very nice work though. I think I saw you post the pic before and say it was your first stick/mod so I'm impressed.

~Paik

[SteveTren]

Thanks for the advice Paik. Yes indeed chainZ provided me with the empty box. Only problem I have with the box is how to attach the bottom panel to the case.. It holds in place just fine with out any screws but that just doesn't seem right and the lip holding up the bottom MDF panel seems too small to get screws.. Any advice? I just used two barrier strips because I thought it would be easier to swap out pcbs and be less messy but I see you way works well too. Finally finished it! Worked perfectly first time I tried it! The PCB is out a Real Arcade Pelican stick.. Its all I had layin around and its small and simple yet works very very well.. Havn't tried any adapters with it yet. Well I am very please with my first efforts.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/9876/dsc006601zm.jpg

[SteveTren]

Finished pics... Should I paint the bottom? Or is that a waste of time?

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/8760/dsc006613un.jpg
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/4852/dsc006639fe.jpg

[Paik4Life]

I had to do some modifications to the Chainz stick that Shodokan had bought. Yes, securing the bottom was a problem. There really is no easy way to attach it with screws because of the lip. If you're comfortable, try this methods.

1) Just put screws in the spaces between the box and the baseplate. If you want you can actually drill into the box itself. This will be secure enough although rather ghetto. It's the quickest and easiest "fix."

2) At the rounded corners, use a wood chisel to make them into right angles. Basically just extend the horizontal and vertical lines and they will meet at a right angle. This will give room to apply screws but really only useful if you cut another bottom plate that does NOT have the rounded edges and fits into the new lip area where the corners will give more than enough room to put screws. I would say this is the "best" fix. If you don't want to make a bottom plate then I would suggest doing method 1 above or 3 below instead.

3) Cut small rectangular pieces that are the same height as the internal depth of the stick. Attach those to the inside either by screws or by glue. Then make screw holes that go into these pieces. You probably want 4 of these pieces; one near each of the 4 corners.

I would paint the bottom. I think it just makes sense to. I even paint the insides of my custom sticks even though you don't see the insides...That's my opinion though. It's really up to you. I hope that helps

~Paik

[NiteWalker]

For fixing the bottom mounting problem try gluing a few pine pieces to screw into for the bottom. It's what I do with all mine but for some reason photobucket is being uncooperative so I can't show you...
Make em like 1 1/2" wide and 3" long. That'll be good support. Or whatever you can fit in there.
For the bare MDF I'd coat it with something. even a light coat of poly to seal it. For the bare edges I coat them with a light coat of wood glue and it works fine.

Excellent first job. Most people's first wiring jobs look sort of like a plate of fine italian spagetti. Yours came out nice and clean. Also for future reference I recommend the small white euro barier strips over the big black ones. They're a bit easier to work with and smaller as well.

One more suggestion, or maybe just a matter of personal preference. I usually mount the PCB as close to the back as possible so I don't lose much cord length.

[SteveTren]

For fixing the bottom mounting problem try gluing a few pine pieces to screw into for the bottom. It's what I do with all mine but for some reason photobucket is being uncooperative so I can't show you...
Make em like 1 1/2" wide and 3" long. That'll be good support. Or whatever you can fit in there.
For the bare MDF I'd coat it with something. even a light coat of poly to seal it. For the bare edges I coat them with a light coat of wood glue and it works fine.

Excellent first job. Most people's first wiring jobs look sort of like a plate of fine italian spagetti. Yours came out nice and clean. Also for future reference I recommend the small white euro barier strips over the big black ones. They're a bit easier to work with and smaller as well.

One more suggestion, or maybe just a matter of personal preference. I usually mount the PCB as close to the back as possible so I don't lose much cord length.

Thanks for the info! I'll do something with the bottom tomarrow and as far as the cord length goes, its really really long anyway..
Steve

[Shin Ace]

http://www.geocities.com/alainprice/pic3.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/alainprice/usbbox9.jpg

optical button:
http://www.geocities.com/alainprice/mod5.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/alainprice/mod7.jpg

I thought I'd have more examples, but they're not uploaded.

[Ramon]

http://www.geocities.com/alainprice/pic3.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/alainprice/usbbox9.jpg

optical button:
http://www.geocities.com/alainprice/mod5.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/alainprice/mod7.jpg

I thought I'd have more examples, but they're not uploaded.


Shin Ace:

What seems to be the advantage of an Optical button? I don't seem to understand it very well.

~Goodbye

[Shin Ace]

No moving parts....in theory should last many many years.

optical disadvantages:
-requires a stable power supply
-DIRT!
-very sensitive(works in analog mode with no click, so touching a button will often activate it)

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Ah shit! Here's a few of mine

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a314/RoTeNdO/project3042.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a314/RoTeNdO/stickupgrade008.jpg

Pelican Mod
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a314/RoTeNdO/PelicanRealArcadeUniversalMod036.jpg

[Shin Ace]

Rotendo, I'm confused.....

In project3042.jpg, you took the time to recess the stick and bore some funky half-pipe holes for what I presume to be plexi.....but it looks like the box is chipboard(not even mdf)?! What's with the wood?

Otherwise, very nice wiring.....do you solder to your QD's? I know I do; crimped connections just don't last.

[Shin-RoTeNdO]

Nah, not chip board... 5/8 particle board. I use both mdf and particle board and have stated the pro's and cons for each. The latter is cheaper, but it was also the only thing I had available at the time. The 'half-pipe' bore for the plexi is because I fucked up on the measurements for the carriage bolts and I wouldn't have room for the nuts, so I had to make room.

For this project, I didn't solder to the QD's, but I did with other sticks and mods and find it to be faster, cheaper, and less work.

Another pic of that project (finished)
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a314/RoTeNdO/project3045.jpg

[pxldtz]

here's mine. very very VERY messy.

http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/pixeldotz/?action=view&current=box_wiring.jpg

[laurie47]

Trust Per to start this thread, the inside of his sticks are gorgeous!

[NiteWalker]

This thread needs a revival...
So here's the innards of the NiteStick:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/NiteStick/th_nitestick_054.jpg (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/NiteStick/nitestick_054.jpg)
By no means my best, but there isn't much elbow room inside there...

[futhamucka]

Here's the insides of my second stick, an agetec mod that uses a project box. So no PCB to be seen :)
http://jonesey.clawz.com/joystick2/images/complete2_small.jpg (http://jonesey.clawz.com/joystick2/images/complete2.jpg)

[ragnafrak]

hrap2 with sanwa buttons/seimitsu ls-32-02 -- i installed an a-series pcb under where the old pcb was.. had to rip out some plastic but i like it

http://derizion.googlepages.com/hrap2-3.jpg

gotta work on cleaning up the wires a little

[Taiki]

hrap2 with sanwa buttons/seimitsu ls-32-02 -- i installed an a-series pcb under where the old pcb was.. had to rip out some plastic but i like it

http://derizion.googlepages.com/hrap2-3.jpg

gotta work on cleaning up the wires a little

Why'd you pull out the old pcb?

[NiteWalker]

My newest build. Nothing special, but it is pretty neat.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/DominatrixQueen/th_100_0956.jpg (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/DominatrixQueen/100_0956.jpg)

[celcius]

^^Looks good :tup:

[paintedpale]

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i161/paintedpale/Picture010.jpg

heres mine

[NiteWalker]

Nice and clean. I like.

Why the completely stripped copper for the ground? I'd be too worried about it touching it wasn't supposed to.

[paintedpale]

yeah i was scared about that too but i like to be daring and its very easy for me to work with....and everything works just fine! :)

[ragnafrak]

Why'd you pull out the old pcb?

it was malfunctioning.. something wrong with the left direction.. the pcb's analog light shows through the turbo buttons holes which is a little cool

[TMO Gaming]

I could not resist a contribution!

The TMO Signature - plexi bottom stick.

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Morado%20Zombie/ZombiesInside1.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Morado%20Zombie/ZombiesInside.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/MsPacMan/MsPacUndercariage1.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Murder%20Black/MBUnderside.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Red%20Guilty%20Gear/RedSolidI-No5.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Spiderman%20vs%20Venom/Spider-ManvsVenom5.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Spiderman%20vs%20Venom/Spider-ManvsVenom6.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Teak%20Mitered/TeakMiterWireLabel.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Teak%20Mitered/TeakMiterUndercarriage.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Vintage%20Marvel%20Stick/VintageMarvel5.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Vintage%20Marvel%20Stick/VintageMarvel6.jpg

[zombie cpt]

Good stuff TMO! Mind if I "borrow" the idea of putting the pcb in the enclosure?

[TMO Gaming]

nopes. I would only mind if you took another break from building more of those great sticks

[Domz]

:pray: TMO

fantastic work!


a few of mine

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/discipline/Wii360001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/discipline/new004.jpg

[TheRealNeoGeo]

Wow TMO, you found my old thread ^_^.

[Fallback]

That murder black TMO stick is soooo clean inside. Im about to put a PS3 stick together this or next week. Ill post pics here when im done. I have never been that clean with the insides but ill try this time damit!... lol

[Big Pockets]

I really like how your wires color coordinate, TMO.

A few of my favorites...
http://joystickvault.com/data/604/medium/DudleyInside.jpg (http://joystickvault.com/showphoto.php?photo=542)
http://joystickvault.com/data/519/Whitewiring.jpg (http://joystickvault.com/showphoto.php?photo=66)
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p202/BigPockets/Joysticks/KulaInsideVer2.jpg

[zombie cpt]

I'll bite

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/6167/img0309sv9.jpg (http://img134.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0309sv9.jpg)

[robotchop]

TMO the inside of your cases need only this response:
"Ain't nobody dope as me I'm dressed so fresh so clean
(So fresh and so clean clean)
Don't you think I'm so sexy I'm dressed so fresh so clean
(So fresh and so clean clean)"

[Twinniss]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[bafiaris13]

yo guys

those are wired much better than any hrap out there

you suck..lol

[makstaks]

Tried some cable sleeving in the HRAP2 SA. I should have taken before pics...

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b271/PowerFinancial/20080818002_s.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b271/PowerFinancial/20080818005_s.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b271/PowerFinancial/20080818004_s.jpg


I'm afraid to cut and redo the wires in the HRAP. But i think the sleeving and some colored cable ties will look nice when i get around to a custom stick.

[zombie cpt]

I've been known to use cable sleeves myself :rofl:

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/5227/img0078gn2.jpg

[Big Pockets]

I am going to start using cable sleeves as well. It is the wave of the pcb-wiring future!

[Toodles]

I gotta admit, those sleeves look damn nice. Where do I get some of those?

[Big Pockets]

I got mine from xpcgear.com (http://www.xpcgear.com/cablemagemen.html)
The link will take you straight to the appropriate section.

[TMO Gaming]

I am also a sleever I gets mine at the Frys (outpost.com)

[Starcade RIP]

I own two TMO-built cases. I did the wiring myself. The first is rather sloppy compared to the second. I've been meaning to redo the wiring.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k244/guile747/bluesanwa3.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k244/guile747/pbstick8.jpg

[robotchop]

where does everyone get the pcb boxes?

[Tetsuosan]

radioshack

[Big Pockets]

I haven't ever ordered from these guys but polycase.com (www.polycase.com) looks promising.

[robotchop]

thanks!

[marus]

Another TMO to add:

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/4793/patchoulistick3ha4.jpg

[Twinniss]

OMG WTF

damn that TMO looks so sick

[makstaks]

I am going to start using cable sleeves as well. It is the wave of the pcb-wiring future!

I gotta admit, those sleeves look damn nice. Where do I get some of those?

I am also a sleever I gets mine at the Frys (outpost.com)


I found a great place. Sells it by the foot and ships very fast. I received my order via first class shipping in 3 days.

http://cableorganizer.com/


I used 3/8inch colored PET which costs around .50cents per foot. It was a good size for covering all the buttons but i think a size smaller would have been a better fit...

http://cableorganizer.com/braided-sleeving/


I'll post a pic later of the other colors i got. I have metallic gold and silver...hopeful that i can get a TMO case and use it in that :wink:

[zombie cpt]

The best fit imo are 1/4" for the button/stick wire and 1/8" for the start/select/guide. This is assuming that you are using 22-24awg wires using common ground setup.