Will a Sanwa stick work in the SFAC Stick?

[supabeast]

I'm getting ready to order the parts to mod my SFAC Stick - ArcadeStickMonk Style, http://www.arcadestickmonk.com/SFACmod.html - is it possible to do this with a Sanwa stick, and if so, what Sanwa sticks would work well and where should I order one? I want to use the Sanwa stick specifically for the ball top - the Happ bats just don't do it for me.

I apologize for not digging this stuff up in the forum, but at this point there's so much information and misinformation about sticks in the forum that it's confusing, and I don't want to order the wrong thing based on out-of-date or just plain wrong posts.

[KyPeN]

From what I have read, it is cheaper to just order a HRAP which has sanwa parts than mod a SFAC with sanwa parts.

[ARetardedMonkey]

Unless you already have a SFAC stick. It's doable. Anything is doable. I assume you just would just need to open up the routered space where the existing stick mounts, make new screw holes. The rest should be pretty easy.

[laurie]

I have sanwa modded my SFANI I have pictures but photobucket is down today, If you want to msn me PM me your addy and I can send you the pics and give advise.

[laurie]

Its back up here are the pics
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/laurie47/IMG_0026.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/laurie47/87514ecc.jpg

You need to cut a hole big enough for the sanwa without its plate to fit through, then you need to measure the plate on the to of the stick so you know which areas need to be routed, I had no router so carefully cut away with a knife to the depth of the countersinking on the original mounting holes.

You can of course just drill some new holes and bottom mount the sanwa, If you use a plate you will need to make the recess inside a little wider, The problem with this is that the stick will feel a bit low, I like to have my first two fingers under the ball top and you cant do this with a low stick.

Good luck and ask for help if you need it.

Oh if you plan on using sanwa buttons the holes need to be widened, Drill if you can and are brave, or use a half circle file.

Good luck.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/laurie47/ea78af59.jpg

[Purrin]

Oh if you plan on using sanwa buttons the holes need to be widened, Drill if you can and are brave, or use a half circle file.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/laurie47/ea78af59.jpg

When I put in my snap-in sanwa's I didn't have to modify the holes at all. They fit perfectly for me, I could of just been lucky though...When I installed my Stick, I went with bottom mounting it with the plate. Laurie did a fine explaination on how that's done, except I really don't feel its low at all, but that really depends on personal preference really. (my fingers fit under the ball just dandy)

Laurie, nice color scheme ya got going there
http://img56.echo.cx/img56/8786/stick13gd.jpg :rofl:

Changed mine to this later on tho
http://img180.echo.cx/img180/2078/pjoystick4qi.jpg

Everyone who has touched my stick has fallen in love with it(that sounds kinky). SFAE with Sanwa mod is the greatest thing ever!! As for price, it ended up being about 120'ish. Which is about the same for a HRAP with shipping...plus SFAE comes with Xbox/PS2 support...so that's 20 bucks saved on a convertor :arazz:

I highly recommend this mod!

[laurie]

Where did you get your artwork printed, Looks very cool, I think arcadestickmonk said you could force the snapins in as well, I didnt stand a chance had to shave off about 2 mm

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Yeah, they grip the plexi under the artwork.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/ArcadeStickMonk/Controllers/ASM-Sanwa30mmSFAC-04.jpg

I just punched it in, and then had to remove the plexi to get it back out.

[laurie]

Thats strange. There must be a couple of versions of this stick,

[Rico!]

Changed mine to this later on tho
http://img180.echo.cx/img180/2078/pjoystick4qi.jpg


:clap: i like i like

i really like how you put the pictures of the attack next to each corresponding button
would you be willing to make me a Dizzy one?

[Purrin]

I got my artwork printed out at kinkos, was planning on using my own printer, but it doesn't print on big enough paper :sad:

And as for making other artworks or sticks (not sure which one you asking for), I'm sorry but I'm gonna have to pass. This is the first and only mod I've done and it's the first and only art piece I ever made for a stick layout...so I'm really not experienced enough to be relied apon. (though it's pretty easy stuff to do, I just don't wanna be hated if I ef it up or if I get too lazy and never finish it :razzy: )

[Rico!]

thats cool, i wouldn't even have any way of paying for it anyway :p

[JumpsuitJesse]

Its back up here are the pics
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/laurie47/IMG_0026.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/laurie47/87514ecc.jpg

You need to cut a hole big enough for the sanwa without its plate to fit through, then you need to measure the plate on the to of the stick so you know which areas need to be routed, I had no router so carefully cut away with a knife to the depth of the countersinking on the original mounting holes.

You can of course just drill some new holes and bottom mount the sanwa, If you use a plate you will need to make the recess inside a little wider, The problem with this is that the stick will feel a bit low, I like to have my first two fingers under the ball top and you cant do this with a low stick.

Good luck and ask for help if you need it.

Oh if you plan on using sanwa buttons the holes need to be widened, Drill if you can and are brave, or use a half circle file.

Good luck.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/laurie47/ea78af59.jpg


Not bad, but thats a bit of a hack job. Someone without experience can end up ruinning their box.

I did mine with no mounting plate at all.

The height is just fine.

See for yourself
Pic 1(Guts) (http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/517/medium/986Picture_121.jpg)

Pic 2(Pelican Headset Port in SFA Stick) (http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/517/medium/986Picture_113.jpg)

Pic 3(Top View) (http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/517/medium/986Picture_112.jpg)

[laurie]

it is a bit of a hack job. The stick does sit lower than on a candycab, I wanted mine to feel arcade perfect.

[dummyface]

Not bad, but thats a bit of a hack job. Someone without experience can end up ruinning their box.

I did mine with no mounting plate at all.

The height is just fine.

See for yourself
Pic 1(Guts) (http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/517/medium/986Picture_121.jpg)

Pic 2(Pelican Headset Port in SFA Stick) (http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/517/medium/986Picture_113.jpg)

Pic 3(Top View) (http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/517/medium/986Picture_112.jpg)


So you just squared up the stick, drilled 2 new holes & it worked?
I thought the JLF was to short for this.
Makes me wonder if the pelican i have lying around is the same thickness as the SFAC stick's top pannel.

[ArcadeStickMonk]

If it was me, I wouldn't mount it in wood without an inset or without coming from the top.

There's an agreed upon "correct" way, based on opinion and examples, but if it feels allright to the player, and doesn't hurt his game, then it really can't be called wrong.

[Dnut]

Isnt the Sanwa an optical joystick? Doesnt it require a volt source in order for it work. How did you guys wired this? Im trying to install a P360 but I have no clue where to start looking for the power source since the SFAC is a multi-console joystick. Any help please?

[ArcadeStickMonk]

Isnt the Sanwa an optical joystick?The Sanwa JLF and Flash sticks are almost the exact same joysticks. The only difference is the PCB that they use, sandwhiched beween the joystick bracket and restrictor plate.

The JLF uses a PCB with Omron microswitchs soldered to it. These switches share the same ground.

The Flash use a PCB that has no microswitches, but instead has light sensing diodes (or whatever) like the P360. All P360 power rules apply.

[WasFemto]

For the ones who modded their stick : Did you guys use square gate? That's what I plan to do (well not myslef).

[ArcadeStickMonk]

On the 5v issue, I spent some time tonight trying to solve it, but my findings were inconclusive.

I present data, not answers.
PCB Test (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/ArcadeStickMonk/Controllers/SFAC%205v/ASM-SFAC5V-01.jpg)
Cord Test (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/ArcadeStickMonk/Controllers/SFAC%205v/ASM-SFAC5V-02.jpg)

Basically, the I couldn't find a "native" 3.3 source on the cord for PS2 (with no PCB attached) and the Xbox yielded more 5v than I expected; but the Xbox is USB and I have to read that different.

So pulling it off thae cord alone, I don't know.

I did find a spot on the PCB which gives me the 3.3v and 5v that I was looking for. So if that signal is constant, and I DON'T KNOW that it is, then that set of solder joints is my best guess.

I'm still working on it, I don't have my answer yet.

[JumpsuitJesse]

it is a bit of a hack job. The stick does sit lower than on a candycab, I wanted mine to feel arcade perfect.

I hope you didnt take offense to my comment. I didnt mean it like that. Its just that the box was cut hardcore and someone with no patience or experience could really screw up their box. As for the stick height, I havent had a problem with the stick and its performance.

The pelican is already routed and sunk in so its a perfect height if you mount it in there with no plate.

[Dnut]

On the 5v issue, I spent some time tonight trying to solve it, but my findings were inconclusive.

I present data, not answers.
PCB Test (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/ArcadeStickMonk/Controllers/SFAC%205v/ASM-SFAC5V-01.jpg)
Cord Test (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/ArcadeStickMonk/Controllers/SFAC%205v/ASM-SFAC5V-02.jpg)

Basically, the I couldn't find a "native" 3.3 source on the cord for PS2 (with no PCB attached) and the Xbox yielded more 5v than I expected; but the Xbox is USB and I have to read that different.

So pulling it off thae cord alone, I don't know.



I did find a spot on the PCB which gives me the 3.3v and 5v that I was looking for. So if that signal is constant, and I DON'T KNOW that it is, then that set of solder joints is my best guess.

I'm still working on it, I don't have my answer yet.

Wow....thanx for taking the time out to finding out the volt source. I hope that the 3 points on the PCB is the right spot to solder. Please let us know how things work out aight. Any updates on this stuff will be greatly appreciated.

[laurie]

Not at all, It was done with very limited tools at my GFs house, It IS a bit of a hack job, Plays very well though, And the height is the same as my candycab so it feels just right.

I hope you didnt take offense to my comment. I didnt mean it like that. Its just that the box was cut hardcore and someone with no patience or experience could really screw up their box. As for the stick height, I havent had a problem with the stick and its performance.

The pelican is already routed and sunk in so its a perfect height if you mount it in there with no plate.

[Cowdisease]

Hey guys, sorry to resurrect this old thread, but I'm planning on replacing the Happ joystick of my SFAC stick with a Sanwa. There are a couple of interesting methods to do this on this thread, but I was wondering if anyone did it lately and could offer me advice. Specifically, how do I hook up the Sanwa joystick to the pcb?

[Cowdisease]

Will I need a JLF-H, 5 pin joystick cable for this mod?

[V4MPIRO]

damn,... nice.

[ChibiT89]

Will I need a JLF-H, 5 pin joystick cable for this mod?

any update?