Tech Talk - shoryuken

PSA: Only Xbox One controllers, accessories will work with Xbox One

kikimaru024 — Wed, 22 May 2013 16:15:34 +0000

http://www.joystiq.com/2013/05/22/microsoft-only-xbox-one-controllers-accessories-will-work-wit/

So if you just bought a 360 stick, you're SOL.

Dunno what the situation is with PS4 yet.

Hori and mad cats soul calibur 5 fightsticks. Which is better?

BoldfacedBrad — Wed, 22 May 2013 01:50:41 +0000

So my friend and I are looking to invest in fightsticks. We are both fairly new players but ready to learn/ love to waste money. We are trying to between the hori and mad catz soul calibur 5 fightsticks and just trying to see which is better in the long run. Is the hori worth the extra price or should we just stick with the $100 mad catz ? Any help deciding would be appreciated. If you need any more info just ask

Focusattack.com fighting game store

jmanDMC — Sun, 14 Nov 2010 01:42:19 +0000

Hey all,

Thought it was high time to formally introduce myself and my shop. I'm Jaleel, the owner of Focusattack.com and fellow Guile main (Akuma looks great as an avatar, though). Focusattack was started in 2009 with the intention of bringing all sorts sweet of fighting game merch to the community. It's grown to highlight the modding community, with joystick parts, custom accessories and other unique items. The shop also embraces unique items designed by players right in the community.

Here's the latest news (Updated 12/20/2012)
» Go to latest page

We thought that the easiest way to get some of our latest news is to visit the online version of our newsletter. We hope you'll check it out.

Click here to check out the latest newsletter.

So what's the deal? Why go to focusattack.com?

* Competitive prices on joystick parts. Sanwa and Seimitsu joysticks, buttons and balltops/battops. We may not have everything the big guys do, but we strive to offer the best prices on them, and the list keeps growing.

Order fulfillment is fast. We usually ship within 1-2 business days of your order, or sometimes within 24 hours!
Unique items from the community. Check our unique section "Made in the FGC" for a list of products made for players, by players!
Contests -- we often offer our products as great contest prizes for players around the world!
Worldwide shipping: We'll ship anywhere that USPS can deliver. We also ship to US forwarding mailboxes courtesy of BONGO.
Helpful, Quick Service - No one likes to wait...Have questions about your order? You can now contact fulfillment@focusattack.com. Any other questions? You can hit me up via email ([URL='http://mailto:service@focusattack.com']service@focusattack.com[/URL]), Twitter, Facebook or here on SRK with any questions. I'll personally respond within 24 hours.
Focusattack.com is giving to the tournaments you attend with prize sponsorships, adding to the winner's pot, and participating in other community related events. We do this more than most other arcade shops.

[media=youtube]4DUYbwe10Vg[/media]

Those are just some reasons to check out the site. :) You might know a friend or two on SRK that purchased from focusattack and have good things to say. If you have any questions, hit up any of the places I mentioned or post them here on this thread. I'll gladly answer them.

That's it for now. Remember that we always highly value you, the player, the joystick builder, and the joystick enthusiast. If you have any questions, drop me a line via SRK PM, Twitter, Facebook, or [URL='http://mailto:service@focusattack.com/']email[/URL].

Take care.
Jaleel
Final Boss
Focusattack.com

Screen tearing Street fighter x Tekken 2013 pc version

Batossai — Thu, 23 May 2013 03:45:40 +0000

Hello every one, i just recently got sfxT for pc, its a pretty cool game but ive noticed screen tearing when i play which is very distracting. i was wondering if some one knows any remedy to this. I am getting this screen tearing while playing offline so my internet shouldnt be related to the issue, also the game ranks my computer A and the game runs at about 140 fps on my computer according to the in game benchmark. I also play ssf4ae on the same computer and it works perfectly fine. here is my dxdiag

Spoiler:

System Information

Time of this report: 1/22/2013, 22:10:25
Machine name: MOHAMED-PC
Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit (6.1, Build 7601) Service Pack 1 (7601.win7sp1_gdr.120830-0333)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: LENOVO
System Model: Lenovo IdeaPad Y580
BIOS: InsydeH2O Version 03.71.515DCN38WW(V2.05)
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3610QM CPU @ 2.30GHz (8 CPUs), ~2.3GHz
Memory: 8192MB RAM
Available OS Memory: 8094MB RAM
Page File: 4812MB used, 11374MB available
Windows Dir: C:\Windows
DirectX Version: DirectX 11
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
User DPI Setting: Using System DPI
System DPI Setting: 96 DPI (100 percent)
DWM DPI Scaling: Disabled
DxDiag Version: 6.01.7601.17514 32bit Unicode

DxDiag Notes

Display Tab 1: No problems found.
Sound Tab 1: No problems found.
Sound Tab 2: No problems found.
Input Tab: No problems found.

DirectX Debug Levels

Direct3D: 0/4 (retail)
DirectDraw: 0/4 (retail)
DirectInput: 0/5 (retail)
DirectMusic: 0/5 (retail)
DirectPlay: 0/9 (retail)
DirectSound: 0/5 (retail)
DirectShow: 0/6 (retail)

Display Devices

Card name: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4000
Manufacturer: Intel Corporation
Chip type: Intel(R) HD Graphics Family
DAC type: Internal
Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_0166&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_09
Display Memory: 1696 MB
Dedicated Memory: 64 MB
Shared Memory: 1632 MB
Current Mode: 1366 x 768 (32 bit) (60Hz)
Monitor Name: Generic PnP Monitor
Monitor Model: unknown
Monitor Id: LGD033A
Native Mode: 1366 x 768(p) (59.996Hz)
Output Type: Internal
Driver Name: igdumd64.dll,igd10umd64.dll,igd10umd64.dll,igdumd32,igd10umd32,igd10umd32
Driver File Version: 8.15.0010.2778 (English)
Driver Version: 8.15.10.2778
DDI Version: 11
Driver Model: WDDM 1.1
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
Driver Date/Size: 6/6/2012 19:49:12, 8089088 bytes
WHQL Logo'd: Yes
WHQL Date Stamp:
Device Identifier: {D7B78E66-4226-11CF-C07E-7D19A9C2C535}
Vendor ID: 0x8086
Device ID: 0x0166
SubSys ID: 0x397717AA
Revision ID: 0x0009
Driver Strong Name: oem10.inf:IntelGfx.NTamd64.6.0:iIVBM0:8.15.10.2778:pci\ven_8086&dev_0166
Rank Of Driver: 00E62001
Video Accel: ModeMPEG2_A ModeMPEG2_C ModeWMV9_C ModeVC1_C
Deinterlace Caps: {BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend
{BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend
{BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend
{BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend
{BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend
{BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend
{BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend
{BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend
D3D9 Overlay: Supported
DXVA-HD: Supported
DDraw Status: Enabled
D3D Status: Enabled
AGP Status: Enabled

Sound Devices

Description: Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio)
Default Sound Playback: Yes
Default Voice Playback: Yes
Hardware ID: HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_0269&SUBSYS_17AAC022&REV_1002
Manufacturer ID: 1
Product ID: 100
Type: WDM
Driver Name: RTKVHD64.sys
Driver Version: 6.00.0001.6543 (English)
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
WHQL Logo'd: Yes
Date and Size: 1/3/2012 02:55:54, 4730344 bytes
Other Files:
Driver Provider: Realtek Semiconductor Corp.
HW Accel Level: Basic
Cap Flags: 0xF1F
Min/Max Sample Rate: 100, 200000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 1, 0
Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 0, 0
HW Memory: 0
Voice Management: No
EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: No, No
I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No

Description: Realtek Digital Output (Realtek High Definition Audio)
Default Sound Playback: No
Default Voice Playback: No
Hardware ID: HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_0269&SUBSYS_17AAC022&REV_1002
Manufacturer ID: 1
Product ID: 100
Type: WDM
Driver Name: RTKVHD64.sys
Driver Version: 6.00.0001.6543 (English)
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
WHQL Logo'd: Yes
Date and Size: 1/3/2012 02:55:54, 4730344 bytes
Other Files:
Driver Provider: Realtek Semiconductor Corp.
HW Accel Level: Basic
Cap Flags: 0xF1F
Min/Max Sample Rate: 100, 200000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 1, 0
Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 0, 0
HW Memory: 0
Voice Management: No
EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: No, No
I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No

Sound Capture Devices

Description: Microphone (Realtek High Definition Audio)
Default Sound Capture: Yes
Default Voice Capture: Yes
Driver Name: RTKVHD64.sys
Driver Version: 6.00.0001.6543 (English)
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
Date and Size: 1/3/2012 02:55:54, 4730344 bytes
Cap Flags: 0x1
Format Flags: 0xFFFFF

DirectInput Devices

Device Name: Mouse
Attached: 1
Controller ID: n/a
Vendor/Product ID: n/a
FF Driver: n/a

Device Name: Keyboard
Attached: 1
Controller ID: n/a
Vendor/Product ID: n/a
FF Driver: n/a

Device Name: Controller (XBOX 360 For Windows)
Attached: 1
Controller ID: 0x0
Vendor/Product ID: 0x045E, 0x028E
FF Driver: n/a

Poll w/ Interrupt: No

USB Devices

Gameport Devices

PS/2 Devices

Disk & DVD/CD-ROM Drives

Drive: C:
Free Space: 257.7 GB
Total Space: 430.7 GB
File System: NTFS
Model: WDC WD5000BPKT-24PK4T0

Drive: D:
Free Space: 22.1 GB
Total Space: 26.1 GB
File System: NTFS
Model: WDC WD5000BPKT-24PK4T0

Drive: F:
Model: PLDS DVD-RW DS8A8SH
Driver: c:\windows\system32\drivers\cdrom.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), , 0 bytes

System Devices

Name: Intel(R) USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1E31&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_04\3&11583659&0&A0
Driver: n/a

Name: Intel(R) 7 Series Chipset Family SATA AHCI Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1E03&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_04\3&11583659&0&FA
Driver: n/a

Name: JMicron PCIe SD Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_197B&DEV_2391&SUBSYS_397617AA&REV_30\4&1570C37F&0&02E3
Driver: n/a

Name: Intel(R) 7 Series/C216 Chipset Family USB Enhanced Host Controller - 1E2D
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1E2D&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_04\3&11583659&0&D0
Driver: n/a

Name: Intel(R) Centrino(R) Wireless-N 2200
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_0891&SUBSYS_42228086&REV_C4\4&18901DAC&0&00E1
Driver: n/a

Name: Atheros AR8161/8165 PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet Controller (NDIS 6.20)
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1969&DEV_1091&SUBSYS_397917AA&REV_08\4&8F8BD4C&0&00E0
Driver: n/a

Name: Intel(R) 7 Series/C216 Chipset Family USB Enhanced Host Controller - 1E26
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1E26&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_04\3&11583659&0&E8
Driver: n/a

Name: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4000
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_0166&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_09\3&11583659&0&10
Driver: n/a

Name: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660M
Device ID: PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_0FD4&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_A1\4&23704A70&0&0008
Driver: n/a

Name: Intel(R) 7 Series/C216 Chipset Family SMBus Host Controller - 1E22
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1E22&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_04\3&11583659&0&FB
Driver: n/a

Name: 3rd Gen Core processor DRAM Controller - 0154
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_0154&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_09\3&11583659&0&00
Driver: n/a

Name: High Definition Audio Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1E20&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_04\3&11583659&0&D8
Driver: n/a

Name: Xeon(R) processor E3-1200 v2/3rd Gen Core processor PCI Express Root Port - 0151
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_0151&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_09\3&11583659&0&08
Driver: n/a

Name: Intel(R) 7 Series/C216 Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 4 - 1E16
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1E16&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_C4\3&11583659&0&E3
Driver: n/a

Name: JMicron PCIe xD Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_197B&DEV_2394&SUBSYS_397617AA&REV_30\4&1570C37F&0&04E3
Driver: n/a

Name: Intel(R) HM76 Express Chipset LPC Controller - 1E59
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1E59&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_04\3&11583659&0&F8
Driver: n/a

Name: Intel(R) 7 Series/C216 Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 2 - 1E12
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1E12&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_C4\3&11583659&0&E1
Driver: n/a

Name: JMicron PCIe MS Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_197B&DEV_2393&SUBSYS_397617AA&REV_30\4&1570C37F&0&03E3
Driver: n/a

Name: Intel(R) Management Engine Interface
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1E3A&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_04\3&11583659&0&B0
Driver: n/a

Name: Intel(R) 7 Series/C216 Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 1 - 1E10
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1E10&SUBSYS_397717AA&REV_C4\3&11583659&0&E0
Driver: n/a

Name: JMicron PCIe SD/MMC Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_197B&DEV_2392&SUBSYS_397617AA&REV_30\4&1570C37F&0&00E3
Driver: n/a

DirectShow Filters

DirectShow Filters:
WMAudio Decoder DMO,0x00800800,1,1,WMADMOD.DLL,6.01.7601.17514
WMAPro over S/PDIF DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMADMOD.DLL,6.01.7601.17514
WMSpeech Decoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMSPDMOD.DLL,6.01.7601.17514
MP3 Decoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,mp3dmod.dll,6.01.7600.16385
Mpeg4s Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,mp4sdecd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
WMV Screen decoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvsdecd.dll,6.01.7601.17514
WMVideo Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,wmvdecod.dll,6.01.7601.17514
Mpeg43 Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,mp43decd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
Mpeg4 Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,mpg4decd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
WD Secure Source Filter,0x00200000,0,1,WDSecureSourceFilter.dll,3.00.0013.0000
WMT VIH2 Fix,0x00200000,1,1,WLXVAFilt.dll,15.04.3508.1109
Record Queue,0x00200000,1,1,WLXVAFilt.dll,15.04.3508.1109
WMT Switch Filter,0x00200000,1,1,WLXVAFilt.dll,15.04.3508.1109
WMT Virtual Renderer,0x00200000,1,0,WLXVAFilt.dll,15.04.3508.1109
WMT DV Extract,0x00200000,1,1,WLXVAFilt.dll,15.04.3508.1109
WMT Virtual Source,0x00200000,0,1,WLXVAFilt.dll,15.04.3508.1109
WMT Sample Information Filter,0x00200000,1,1,WLXVAFilt.dll,15.04.3508.1109
CyberLink MPEG Video Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,P2GVidEnc.ax,6.00.0001.2226
CyberLink MP3/WAV Wrapper,0x00200000,1,1,P2GMP3Wrap.ax,3.07.0000.1314
DV Muxer,0x00400000,0,0,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
CyberLink AudioCD Filter,0x00200000,0,1,P2GAudioCD.ax,5.00.0000.2103
Color Space Converter,0x00400001,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
WM ASF Reader,0x00400000,0,0,qasf.dll,12.00.7601.17514
Screen Capture filter,0x00200000,0,1,wmpsrcwp.dll,12.00.7601.17514
AVI Splitter,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
VGA 16 Color Ditherer,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
SBE2MediaTypeProfile,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
CyberLink Editing Service 3.0 (Source),0x00200000,0,2,P2GEdtKrn.dll,3.00.0000.2911
Microsoft DTV-DVD Video Decoder,0x005fffff,2,4,msmpeg2vdec.dll,6.01.7140.0000
DS Video Buffer Filter,0x00200000,1,1,DSBuffer_Video.ax,3.00.0013.0000
AC3 Parser Filter,0x00600000,1,1,mpg2splt.ax,6.06.7601.17528
StreamBufferSink,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
MJPEG Decompressor,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MPEG-I Stream Splitter,0x00600000,1,2,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
SAMI (CC) Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
P2G Video Decoder,0x00200000,2,3,P2GVSD.ax,6.00.0000.2310
MainConcept AAC Encoder,0x00100000,1,1,mc_enc_aac_ds.ax,8.00.0000.43595
VBI Codec,0x00600000,1,4,VBICodec.ax,6.06.7601.17514
MPEG-2 Splitter,0x005fffff,1,0,mpg2splt.ax,6.06.7601.17528
Closed Captions Analysis Filter,0x00200000,2,5,cca.dll,6.06.7601.17514
SBE2FileScan,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Microsoft MPEG-2 Video Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,msmpeg2enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
Internal Script Command Renderer,0x00800001,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CyberLink Video Regulator,0x00200000,1,1,P2GRGL.ax,2.00.0000.4305
P2G Audio Decoder,0x00200000,1,1,P2GAud.ax,6.01.0000.3601
MPEG Audio Decoder,0x03680001,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
DV Splitter,0x00600000,1,2,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Video Mixing Renderer 9,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CyberLink Video Effect,0x00200000,1,1,P2GVidFx.ax,1.00.0000.3207
CyberLink Audio Noise Reduction,0x00200000,1,1,P2GAuNRWrapper.ax,2.00.0000.1805
Microsoft MPEG-2 Encoder,0x00200000,2,1,msmpeg2enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
CyberLink Load Image Filter,0x00200000,0,1,CLImage.ax,3.00.0000.2307
CyberLink MPEG-2 Splitter,0x00200000,1,2,P2Gm2spliter.ax,2.04.0000.2301
CyberLink Audio VolumeBooster,0x00200000,1,1,P2GVB.ax,1.00.0000.1008
ACM Wrapper,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Video Renderer,0x00800001,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MPEG-2 Video Stream Analyzer,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Cyberlink Dump Dispatch Filter,0x00200000,1,0,P2GDumpDispatch.ax,1.02.0001.2412
Line 21 Decoder,0x00600000,1,1,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Video Port Manager,0x00600000,2,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Video Renderer,0x00400000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CyberLink Audio Resampler,0x00200000,1,1,P2GAuRsmpl.ax,2.00.0000.1318
File Writer,0x00200000,1,0,WLXVAFilt.dll,15.04.3508.1109
VPS Decoder,0x00200000,0,0,WSTPager.ax,6.06.7601.17514
WM ASF Writer,0x00400000,0,0,qasf.dll,12.00.7601.17514
CyberLink MPEG-1 Splitter,0x00200000,1,2,P2Gm1spliter.ax,2.04.0000.2301
VBI Surface Allocator,0x00600000,1,1,vbisurf.ax,6.01.7601.17514
File writer,0x00200000,1,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
iTV Data Sink,0x00600000,1,0,itvdata.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Bandisoft MPEG-1 Video Decoder,0xff800001,1,1,bdfilters.dll,1.00.0004.0013
iTV Data Capture filter,0x00600000,1,1,itvdata.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Cyberlink File Reader (Async.),0x00200000,0,1,P2GReader.ax,3.00.0000.3016
CyberLink M2V Writer,0x00200000,1,0,P2GM2VWriter.ax,1.03.0000.2017
Intel® Mux Renderer,0x00200000,2,0,IntelMux.dll,3.00.0013.0000
Cyberlink Dump Filter,0x00200000,1,0,P2GDump.ax,3.00.0000.7122
CyberLink Video Stabilizer,0x00200000,1,1,P2GVideoStabilizer.ax,1.00.0000.1521
CyberLink PCM Wrapper,0x00200000,1,1,P2GPCMEnc.ax,1.01.0000.0321
DVD Navigator,0x00200000,0,3,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Overlay Mixer2,0x00200000,1,1,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.17713
AVI Draw,0x00600064,9,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
RDP DShow Redirection Filter,0xffffffff,1,0,DShowRdpFilter.dll,
Microsoft MPEG-2 Audio Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,msmpeg2enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
WST Pager,0x00200000,1,1,WSTPager.ax,6.06.7601.17514
MPEG-2 Demultiplexer,0x00600000,1,1,mpg2splt.ax,6.06.7601.17528
DV Video Decoder,0x00800000,1,1,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
SampleGrabber,0x00200000,1,1,qedit.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Null Renderer,0x00200000,1,0,qedit.dll,6.06.7601.17514
MPEG-2 Sections and Tables,0x005fffff,1,0,Mpeg2Data.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft AC3 Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,msac3enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
StreamBufferSource,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
CyberLink TimeStretch Filter (CES),0x00200000,1,1,P2Gauts.ax,1.00.0000.4024
Smart Tee,0x00200000,1,2,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Overlay Mixer,0x00200000,0,0,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CyberLink TL MPEG Splitter,0x00200000,1,2,P2GTLMSplter.ax,3.02.0000.2219
AVI Decompressor,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CyberLink MPEG Muxer,0x00200000,2,1,P2GMpgMux.ax,5.00.0000.2221
WD Audio Filter,0x00200000,0,1,WDAudioFilter.dll,3.00.0013.0000
AVI/WAV File Source,0x00400000,0,2,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Wave Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MIDI Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Multi-file Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
File stream renderer,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Microsoft DTV-DVD Audio Decoder,0x005fffff,1,1,msmpeg2adec.dll,6.01.7140.0000
StreamBufferSink2,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
AVI Mux,0x00200000,1,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Bandisoft MPEG-1 Audio Decoder,0xff800001,1,1,bdfilters.dll,1.00.0004.0013
Line 21 Decoder 2,0x00600002,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
File Source (Async.),0x00400000,0,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
File Source (URL),0x00400000,0,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
P2G Video Regulator,0x00200000,1,1,P2GResample.ax,2.05.0000.1818
WDSource Filter,0x00200000,0,1,WDSourceFilter.dll,3.00.0013.0000
P2G Audio Encoder,0x00200000,2,0,P2GAudEnc.ax,2.00.0000.4815
Infinite Pin Tee Filter,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Enhanced Video Renderer,0x00200000,1,0,evr.dll,6.01.7601.17514
Intel®WiDi H264 encoder,0x00200000,1,1,h264_enc_filter.dll,
BDA MPEG2 Transport Information Filter,0x00200000,2,0,psisrndr.ax,6.06.7601.17669
MPEG Video Decoder,0x40000001,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CyberLink MPEG Decoder,0x00200000,2,3,P2GMVD.ax,5.00.0000.0929

WDM Streaming Tee/Splitter Devices:
Tee/Sink-to-Sink Converter,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

Video Compressors:
Ligos MPEG-2 Encoder (Intel) v1.9-MT,0x00000000,1,1,LigosDMOVid.dll,3.00.0013.0000
WMVideo8 Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvxencd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
WMVideo9 Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvencod.dll,6.01.7600.16385
MSScreen 9 encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvsencd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
DV Video Encoder,0x00200000,0,0,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
MJPEG Compressor,0x00200000,0,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Cinepak Codec by Radius,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Intel IYUV codec,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Intel IYUV codec,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Bandi MJPEG Video Decoder,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Bandi MPEG-1 Video Decoder,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft RLE,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft Video 1,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514

Audio Compressors:
WM Speech Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMSPDMOE.DLL,6.01.7600.16385
WMAudio Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMADMOE.DLL,6.01.7600.16385
MainConcept AAC Encoder,0x00100000,1,1,mc_enc_aac_ds.ax,8.00.0000.43595
IMA ADPCM,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
PCM,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Microsoft ADPCM,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
GSM 6.10,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Messenger Audio Codec,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CCITT A-Law,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CCITT u-Law,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MP2,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MPEG Layer-3,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

Audio Capture Sources:
Microphone (Realtek High Defini,0x00200000,0,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514

PBDA CP Filters:
PBDA DTFilter,0x00600000,1,1,CPFilters.dll,6.06.7601.17528
PBDA ETFilter,0x00200000,0,0,CPFilters.dll,6.06.7601.17528
PBDA PTFilter,0x00200000,0,0,CPFilters.dll,6.06.7601.17528

Midi Renderers:
Default MidiOut Device,0x00800000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Microsoft GS Wavetable Synth,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

WDM Streaming Capture Devices:
Realtek HD Audio Mic input,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Realtek HD Audio Stereo input,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
CyberLink Webcam Splitter,0x00200000,0,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Lenovo EasyCamera,0x00200000,0,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

WDM Streaming Rendering Devices:
Realtek HD Audio output,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Realtek HDA SPDIF Out,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

BDA Network Providers:
Microsoft ATSC Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft DVBC Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft DVBS Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft DVBT Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514

Video Capture Sources:
CyberLink Webcam Splitter,0x00200000,0,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Lenovo EasyCamera,0x00200000,0,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

Multi-Instance Capable VBI Codecs:
VBI Codec,0x00600000,1,4,VBICodec.ax,6.06.7601.17514

BDA Transport Information Renderers:
BDA MPEG2 Transport Information Filter,0x00600000,2,0,psisrndr.ax,6.06.7601.17669
MPEG-2 Sections and Tables,0x00600000,1,0,Mpeg2Data.ax,6.06.7601.17514

BDA CP/CA Filters:
Decrypt/Tag,0x00600000,1,1,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708
Encrypt/Tag,0x00200000,0,0,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708
PTFilter,0x00200000,0,0,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708
XDS Codec,0x00200000,0,0,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708

WDM Streaming Communication Transforms:
Tee/Sink-to-Sink Converter,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

Audio Renderers:
Speakers (Realtek High Definiti,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Default DirectSound Device,0x00800000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Default WaveOut Device,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
DirectSound: Realtek Digital Output (Realtek High Definition Audio),0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
DirectSound: Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio),0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Realtek Digital Output (Realtek,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

EVR Power Information

Current Setting: {5C67A112-A4C9-483F-B4A7-1D473BECAFDC} (Quality)
Quality Flags: 2576
Enabled:
Force throttling
Allow half deinterlace
Allow scaling
Decode Power Usage: 100
Balanced Flags: 1424
Enabled:
Force throttling
Allow batching
Force half deinterlace
Force scaling
Decode Power Usage: 50
PowerFlags: 1424
Enabled:
Force throttling
Allow batching
Force half deinterlace
Force scaling
Decode Power Usage: 0

thank you very much

Quick question: Datel Arcade Pro, 2/X/A Button not working!

Slaz — Mon, 20 May 2013 13:18:45 +0000

I'm new here, hi all!

That being said, recently my Datel Arcade Pro started to become faulty by randomly ignoring button input from (especially) the lower-left buttons, sometimes the upper as well. After some looking around online, it became clear that stock buttons were garbage and that I was better off with quality Sanwa/Seimitsu parts.

So instead of buying a new stick, I bought a set of Sanwa buttons and the JFL joystick and followed a similar stick's guide (Mayflash) on YouTube to mod this one instead. After some hours of scraping, cutting, and soldering I got all parts in fine but for some reason the 2/X/A button doesn't work! All other buttons and the JFL joystick work fine (like a breeze of silk compared to the stock parts, as expected).

I checked all buttons/contacts of the PCB with a multimeter to see if inputs are received and none overlap, and they're all fine. Which probably means the problem lies somewhere further in the PCB circuit.

Could anyone with experience on this particular stick clarify if this means the PCB broke and I'd need a replacement?
Or could there be anything else causing this problem?

For reference, here's the modded stick I'm talking about:

Mad Catz ECTV Sale! $80 FightSticks + Tons of Savings!

MarkMan — Sat, 18 May 2013 16:43:21 +0000

Mad Catz ECTV Sale! $80 FightSticks + Tons of Savings!

Mad Catz is a proud sponsor of this weekend's East Coast Throwdown V!

We also have some AMAZING deals just for this event! Make sure you check them out! You can see all the deals/coverage for this weekend here: http://www.madcatz.com/throw-down-with-mad-catz-at-ect-v/

DEAL NO. 1 – $20 OFF SELECT FIGHTSTICKS! USE CODE ‘ECT20′ ON…

For North America (US & Canada) customers! You can get the Major League Gaming or the SOULCALIBUR V FightSticks for just $80! That’s a 50% savings from the original price! Enter coupon code ‘ECT20′ at checkout to save $20 OFF the following:

Don’t forget! These are while supplies last and this promo ends on May 21!

DEAL NO. 2 – $60 OFF SELECT FIGHTSTICKS! USE CODE ‘ECT60′ ON…

Another great promo code for North America (US & Canada) customers! Massive savings of $60 OFF some of our best products! Enter coupon code ‘ECT60′ at checkout to save $60 OFF the following:

Don’t forget! These are while supplies last and this promo ends on May 21!

While you’re at it, be sure to check out our newly launched range of apparel, Mad Catz Game Hard Wear! As seen below…

Thanks for checking out the deals!

Is there anyone making plexy or wooden cases for IL parts?

madmalkav — Mon, 20 May 2013 20:45:40 +0000

Everything I can find is only for japanese parts. I'm not really an skilled person and I'm having a serious sortage of free time, so I would love to have something like those tek-innovations cases for IL parts.

The Official Qanba Fightstick Thread (Page 60,"Defender" QanBa Fighting Stick backpack released now)

llx8000 — Mon, 21 Dec 2009 17:19:16 +0000

Hello everyone:

My name is Xianglong, QANBA's marketing manager. I'm making this thread the official QANBA thread. We will use this thread to release any new informations and to answer any questions regarding to our QANBA fightsticks. Mean while, any advices or complains can also be bosted at this thread. You are more than welcome to give us your valuable opinions.

In order to meet gamers' needs, we will constantly enhance and improve our fightsticks. Our goal is to provide extreme gaming enviroments to arcade gamers. Enjoy your game, Enjoy QANBA. We hope you like our fightsticks!

"Defender" QanBa Fighting Stick backpack
April 2013

•Fits most modern joystick models up to 19 inches long
•Hemp-style durable fabric
•Detachable plush felt interior liner
•Dual snap-buckles for easy access
•Triple auxiliary zipper pockets
•Dual water bottle stretch pockets
•25 x 15 x 8 inches

QANBA New Q1

•Products compatible systems compatible PS3 console, computers, automatic identification procedures
•Computer, no drivers, computer systems automatically identify connection, plug and play
•Use QANBA latest motherboard, support firmware upgrade
•PC/PS3 mode to support joystick bursts bursts need to meet the specific game
•Product added hidden closing box design, increasing the portable performance
•Re-define the the START key bit position, and function keys are embedded design to prevent the occurrence of misuse
•The back of the product design a removable fixture kit, more accurate operation
•State have folders without folder, the stick provides two operating angle selection. On the table at the same time there folder (placed in use) angle can adjust their own size

QanBa Q2PRO
2012-5-18
Q2PRO Product Description:
The QanBa Q2pro is a quality arcade fight stick that uses top of the range Sanwa parts and is compatible with PlayStation 3 & PC. This QanBa Q2PRO is also compatible with left hand play joystick or right hand play joystick. Function control panel below buttons , Hidden carrying handle ,Firmware upgrade .It is very easy to mod, should you wish to change the joystick/buttons etc.
Q2PRO standard edition:Straight layout
Q2PRO Professional edition :Vewlix layout

· Hidden carrying handle

· USB Port (support PS3 USB Headset ,PS3 USB Keyboard)

· compatible with left hand play joystick or right hand play joystick

QanBa Q4
2012-2-28

QanBa Q4 eLivePro|Kindevu

QanBa Q4 eLivepro|RF

QanBa Q4 eLivepro|D44BAS

2011-11-25

Q4 RAF ICE RED 3in1 coming

clear red case

clear red handle

sanwa clear buttons

2011-11-12
Qanba stick Bag

2011-8-28
Q4 RAF 3in1 (white)

Q4 RAF 3in1 ice blue 6 button( Artwork design: MINSK, Germany )

2011-7-10

Q4 RAF ICE-BLUE FOR PC release 10th July 2011 in China

clear plexi

easy replace artwork

sanwa joystick and sanwa buttons(OBSF-30DB,OBSF-24DB)

Seimitsu joystick and PS-14-KN,OBSF-24

blue translucent case

easy change joystick or buttons

Sample 3D Artwork

2011-3-18
Q4 RAF 3in1 will release 28th March 2011 in China

2011-2-21

2011-1-18

Q3 Wired Fightstick Q3 QanBa-Empire(For PS3/PC 2in1) Will Listing

Q3 Wired Fightstick Q3-XS(For XBOX360) Will Listing

Q3 Wired Fightstick Q3-XS(For XBOX360)

QanBa 3 PS3/PC 2in1 wireless joystick will listing

Sample Pics

Building my first custom Arcade Stick, Hoping to get some advice

xtreme1 — Fri, 03 May 2013 00:12:24 +0000

So I decided to go ahead and build my first custom arcade stick. I found a nice tut here with tons of info that I've been reading up on: http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/example2.html
I'll be going for that basic design.

So it looks like my ingredients will be:

1 SANWA JLF-TP-8YT JOYSTICK from focusattack.com
1 SANWA LB-35 MESH BALLTOP from canadian joysticks
10 30mm face buttons (8 face + start and select)
8 UILA RGB 5VDC LED LAMP
1 Cthulu MC PCB from focusattack.com
1 SPARKY PWM SMD LED CONTROLLER PCB from focusattack.com

~15' 20(?) AWG Insulated Wire
~30 Various Connectors
Probably will be using screws on the butt joints
The basic measurements for the materials:

(planning on making all wood MDF)
1 12" x 8" x 3/4" Wood
2 12" x 8" x .093" Acrylic Glass
2 8" x 1-1/2" x 3/4" Wood
2 8" x 2-1/2" x 3/4" Wood
1 10-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 3/4" Wood
2 13-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 3/4" Wood

SO...
My big questions are:

1. Where can I get some buttons that will look good with the Uila installed in them? I need the buttons to be screw-in I assume to work with the tutorial I am basing my stick off of. (I'm really uncertain if I even need screw-in) I have been having a lot of issues trying to find buttons that are clear(or at least similarto something like the seimitsu-ps14-k) and screw in; any suggestions?

2. Does it matter what gauge the wire is or is it safe to stay between 20-26 AWG?

3. Does anyone know of a good controller converter from PS3 to 360? I saw the chronus usb solution and was wondering if anyone had tested using it instead of going with the imp and 360 controller pcb.

4. Do you have any comments about the materials I am using, from the wood to the stick or any other comments or advise? Do not know much about different joysticks so I went with the standard looking one from focusattack... T_T such a noob...

This is my first post guys, thanks for the help in advance!

Streaming and Recording Guide/Research

potatohead — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 03:24:38 +0000

I've recently been trying to move GYT into the streaming space and have come to learn a lot. I thought this would be useful information to the community as we see more and more events being streamed and matches being recorded. So I decided to document everything I have come to learn about streaming in the past month or so and share it.

MIND YOU THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS. I will update as I learn, and as I have time.

* Hardware *

* Capture Devices

Matrox MXO2 Mini - Compared to the other capture device solutions, the Matrox MXO2 Mini is a bit pricey for a consumer level product. It will cost you around the $450 - $500 range depending on where you chose to buy it. However, for it's price, I find it to be the most powerful and flexible of the devices I researched. It is also the device I opted to go with.

It's flexible in the sense that it can do both component and HDMI inputs and outputs and it can interface with both laptops via PCMCIA express card and PC/Macs through a PCI express card. Depending on which package you purchase it will either come with a PCMCIA express card or a PCI express card.

The Matrox site has a convincing list as to why to choose the MXO2 over the Black Magic Intensity Pro which also showcases why it's a powerful little device.

Of course it has it's own set of drawbacks. The device is very temperamental. While using it with my Macbook Pro, you can't have the device connected while you are booting or else the system will hang. Often times you will need to completely restart your system and power on the MXO2 in a specific order for the capture software to function properly with the device. Many of the restart issues have been documented in a review by Vade of "Create Digital Motion" I find that once I've set everything up correctly, so long as you don't touch anything or have a stream crash, the device runs smoothly.

Black Magic Intensity Pro - I've had mixed feedback when it comes to this device. Some have claimed this as the "Gold Standard" for video processing and video I/O; however when speaking to Cicada who runs the House of Cicada stream, he tells me that the windows version of the drivers are a bit "hokey" at best. He's had issues using the Black Magic Intensity Pro with streaming software such as VidBlaster.

DJWheat of Epileptic Gaming / LO3 has a resolution to Black Magic Intensity and Vidblaster issues.

djWHEAT, post: wrote:

The BM Intensity Pro works fine with VidBlaster, you just cannot use it directly into the program. I've done over 500 hours of streaming this year with the BM Intensity Pro + VidBlaster combo.

What you need to do is use a "catcher" program for VidBlaster.

VidBlaster is great program, but in reality it's optimization is pretty poor. So when you begin to pile more tasks into VidBlaster (recording, streaming, capturing cameras, etc) it really starts to take a beating (unless you are running a legit i7 core system).

I would suggest that you use VCam. VCam allows you to "capture" the signal from the BM Intensity Pro, and then you just fire it directly to VidBlaster. When you do this, you'll notice the quality of the BM Intensity Pro go from "totally shitty" to "Holy shit that looks awesome".

YOU ALSO WILL BYPASS ANY AND ALL ISSUES WITH AUDIO SYNC if you meet the following conditions... You must be using the Intensity Pro 2.1 drivers. Yeah I know, they are on like 3.4 now, but seriously, I played with about 12 versions of this driver and anything after 2.1 has some CRAZY audio de-sync going on (I think it has to do with locked framerates but BM has not confirmed this yet.

One drawback with the Black Magic Intensity Pro is that it's an internal PCI Express card. You will likely need a desktop PC to use it which is not as mobile as something like that Matrox MXO2 Mini and a laptop.

HDR Hauppauge - The Hauppauge is a powerful little device and is great for a cheap entry level recorder. It takes any HD input via component and records footage to your PC/Mac hard drive in h.264. It is important to point out that this device does hardware encoding straight into h.264, meaning your PC/Mac won't be spending precious CPU cycles encoding raw HD footage as the majority of the processing is being done by the box itself. This device quickly outputs game footage in h.264 format which many online video sites such as youtube or vimeo accept.

Where the Hauppauge really causes headaches is in post production. Since it encodes straight into h.264 which is a delivery format, it will take quite awhile to convert the footage back into a format used in editing programs such as Final Cut Pro. There are limited amount of programs that do simple cutting of footage but adding stuff like logos, player names, intros, background music may take awhile especially if you've recorded an entire 64 - 128 man tournament.

Some other drawbacks of the Hauppauge is that it does not have HDMI input.

Despite some of it's drawbacks, many people I have spoken to who own the device are generally happy with it. It's relatively cheap compared to some solutions, and there are not many people out there who are worried about adding logos, player names, commentary to their footage. They are much more worried about getting the footage out there and keeping a record of the match which this device can do quickly and easily.

Other things to note about this device is that there is limited OS X support right now. It does however unofficially work with Elgato's EyeTV video software.

Haunts from IPlayWinner.com discusses streaming with the Hauppauge

haunts wrote:

streaming from the Hauppauge is best suited for small gatherings and tournaments. It's not really the most reliable way to stream just due to the fact that if you try to do too much, Eye TV will slow down and you wont have the best framerate.

I'm running a MacBook with 4 gigs of ram and this method works fairly well but it does have many draw backs that I'll try to explain here.

The set up is as follows:

PS3/360 with component video cables connected to the Hauppauge.

PS3/360 Audio Cables running to a mixer of some sort.

A mic or two running to said mixer.

Master Out on Mixer connecting to the Hauppauge Audio in.

EyeTV with Preview Window Open

CamTwist with Desktop + capturing the EyeTV Window

Soundflower to route the sound for uStream.

So, it's been a while since I've had this set up so I'm sure I missed a detail or two, but the basic idea is you are routing the video to the EyeTV preview window and capturing that with CamTwist's Desktop +. You're then going to use Soundflower to route the audio through EyeTV to uStream (this is the part where screen shots would be handy.) You of course control audio levels via the mixer.

As far as the specific settings to get Soundflower to give you audio via uStream, I dont know off the top of my head.

The problem (besides the mess you have to go through to get it to work) here is that the video lags slightly ont he EyeTV preview window compared to what is happening real time. So if you have a camera set up and try to do a PIP with CamTwist, the footage of the game will be delayed. Not a huge deal but some may find it odd to see people jumping out of their seats before anything happens on screen.

Also, as I mentioned before, even though the preview window in EyeTV runs very smooth, if you try to do too much at once it will obviously start dropping frames.

Hava Titanium HD
I don't have much experience using the Hava series of capture devices but aggrastat has written about it in detail here.

* Signal Splitters - signal splitters are key for outputting footage from your source, whether it be a PS3 or Xbox 360, to both the television that players view and the capture device.

When dealing with splitters an issue that might come up is frame latency, in particular lag between input from the controllers and what is outputted to the television. It's the same issue that many have come across when dealing with "laggy" televisions. Some games such as Street Fighter IV require strict timing to up to 1 frame. One way to mitigate this problem is to make sure the splitter is powered with its own power source, that way the signal is amplified. There are unpowered splitters on the market, but I don't recommend them if the game you are recording/streaming requires strict input timing. Unpowered signal splitters can also lead to darkened picture quality since it's not being amplified.

Even if you do use the best powered splitter on the market, the splitter will still create some "lag"; however the delay created is in the microseconds which is unnoticeable. Humans can only discern delay when it gets to the millisecond range.

It is still important to use a non-laggy television or monitor, particularly the televisions or monitors that do not do post HD processing. If you use a splitter setup with known delay issues with a television that is laggy, you just compound the problem.

When dealing with streaming or recording gameplay from a PS3 or Xbox 360, there are two types of splitters to consider: component or HDMI. There are benefits and drawbacks to each type. Some devices, such as the PS3, encrypt HDMI signal in a protocol called HDCP. It's a protocol used to protect againsts pirates who attempt to capture or rip Bluray movies, for example. There are splitters and devices that decrypt HDCP signals, such as the HD Fury , but it is still inconclusive what kind of delay or lag is created from decrypting the signal. Component on the other hand is unencrypted. There are, however, been industry talks and rumors about locking component output during playback of protected content. It is certainly something to look out for in the future.

One other unfortunate aspect of choosing component is there are known monitors, such as the ASUS monitor used at Evolution 2009, that have no lag but only have HDMI inputs and no Component inputs. You should also consider that older generations of the Xbox 360 do not have HDMI out.

In speaking to Robb aka "Jedi Robb" of the Devastation group, he sent me a list of powered splitters, both component and HDMI, that have had no complaints from players who played on the systems at Devastation '09:

CE Labs AV501HDXi 1 to 4 Component Splitter - This is the component splitter I opted to go with.

CE Labs HA4-3 1 to 4 HDMI Splitter

Geffen 1 to 4 HDMI Splitter

* Get Your Tournament Streaming Setup Rev 2 *

* Software *

Telestream's Wirecast
I've used Wirecast now extensively for about 4 months, and I have to say that it is an impressive piece of software. It is very user friendly. It really makes incorporating professional style lower thirds, overlays, and logos into your broadcast simple. Having no prior broadcast production experience I was really expecting a steep learning curve -- something akin to learning photoshop or final cut pro for the first time -- instead I was surprised at how easy it was to use. Just from looking at it's user interface you'll notice that it almost takes a minimalist approach when compared to something like VidBlaster, a competing streaming software suite. There are not a lot of buttons to interact with yet it is deceptively powerful.

Pros

Really easy to use. If you understand the concept of layers from programs such as photoshop, GIMP, or premier then it will feel right at home.
Really simple to use chroma keying for green screen effects.
It comes preloaded with professional style shot-to-shot transitions and even a set of preloaded lower thirds. Adding your own lower thirds, graphics and video is as simple as dragging and dropping or importing them.
I had no issues so far with Wirecast detecting any of my connected hardware. It detected all my input sources, cameras, and audio devices right out of the box.
It has preloaded presets for streaming to your favorite streaming services including the two favorites Justin.tv and Ustream.

Cons

It has a slight chance of crashing the stream when you edit properties of shots during a broadcast.
It has no support for ip cameras or network cameras as of yet. They are working on this feature at the moment.
No easy way of queueing or adding playlist of shots. It does, however, have an scripting interface using various programming languages.
No integration with Adobe's Flash Media Live Encoder, though it does have it's own flash media encoder.
Its cost. This bad boy cost $449 plus $99 dollars for the HDV Camera plugin if you intend to use High Definition cameras. And yes for you people looking to Arrrrrrrquire this software, just know that the registration process "dials home" meaning it checks the key with Telestream's servers.

Here is a sample clip of a stream we did using Telestream's Wirecast. This was recorded on 12/1/2009 of a Street Fighter 4 stream: Wednesday Night Fights

You can also check out our Justin.tv channel which has matches from our latest stream using Wirecast playing on loop.

* Other Useful Resources *

Current Get Your Tournament Streaming Setup Rev 2 - Here is a diagram I made using Dia that diagrams our current setup.

First time psx padhack! Quick question

Juicy_Jord — Tue, 21 May 2013 21:46:29 +0000

So I am making a padhacked stick using a ps1 pad- the shell and wiring are from a Madcatz TvC stick-

my question is whether or not i can just solder to the pcb directly from the ribbon cable from the punchdown or if I have to use a daisy chained ground and solder that to the pcb in addition to button connections.

Also if anyone knows the wiring for the ribbon from the punchdown itd be a huge help!

If anyone has any insight i would really appreciate it! can provide pics if necessary!

PS3 wireless arcade stick LED mod, help required

Reuben Hayman — Thu, 23 May 2013 20:36:27 +0000

Hi all, had a working stick in a shoebox, but now I have decided to upgrade to a wooden case instead ... While planning the case I started considering adding some LEDs to the mix considering that I have the clear sanwa buttons. My only problem is that the stick uses a ps3 wireless pcb (the old one, the sixaxis and not dual shock one) and I was wondering whether I can add an LED mod to this pcb.

I was trying to look at some tutorials to try to understand what I would need, up till now I have noticed the uila leds and the fgwidget/spark controller ... None of these have been applied to a wireless controller so I was not sure whether this is possible.

Other led noob question, if I add a resistor and an led in series with the button, would that light up when the button is pressed? Would I be doing something wrong?

Thanks for your time

The Razer Arcade Stick Thread!

the.fapist — Thu, 15 Sep 2011 01:57:23 +0000

Recently announced Razer Arcade stick looks sleek but it seems to be only on the xbox. Also it doesn't look like it uses quick disconnects that we're used to, But a different kind that has both connectors in 1.
more info at their site, Don't forget to sign up for their beta Program!
Link: http://www.razerzone.com/bredtofight

EDIT:
List of suggestions:
Mandatory
Different Quick Connects for the buttons and stick
Common Ground PCB
Move the insides to the Bottom of the Stick
Move The Latch that Opens the stick
Make the height inside the stick taller so it can have parts that aren't japanese

Minor
Button Layout
Include Button Plugs

JLF into Neo Geo MVS cabinet

jay_red — Thu, 23 May 2013 01:12:24 +0000

I knew before I even got my own MVS, that I would not keep the standard american parts for long, now that I finally have my cab in my house and all repainted, its time to swap out those parts. Putting in sanwa buttons is no problem, dremel the holes out a couple of MM and you are set. As for the JLF, I had been looking into what other people did, the easiest option, was to either use a JLW, or take the JLW mounting plate and place it on the JLF plate. Well I have already put too much money into this cab, and I wanted to see what I could do on the cheap, and set off to make my own adapter plate.

I started with a baseplate from an unneeded Hori Wii fightstick, it was the perfect thickness to be easy to cut and drill, but plenty sturdy. I used the IL joystick base to trace the shape, and mark the holes for the mounts that are on the control panel. I then used the Sanwa baseplate to mark the holes the stick.

Went pure eyeballing it on this one, just kept placing down things and making marks. I drilled all the holes larger to allow for fine adjustments if needed.

For the hole in the middle, I had no way of cutting out a circle, so I just dremeled a larger square, it will be covered with the dust washer so it didnt need to look pretty. I used tin snips to cut out the shape of the plate, cutting that tiny square in the middle used 2 cut off wheels for each one!

Had to run to homedepot for some hardware, the only thing I had to buy for this.

Both sides mounted in the panel, one is a real JLF, the other is a madcatz knock off for now:

What the finished product looks like next to the sanwa buttons, I still need to figure out wiring it up, I might make a harness to splice into the MVS wiring.

Building my first arcade controller - some questions

Key_alt — Wed, 22 May 2013 13:19:39 +0000

I'm going to make a hitbox-like controller (keyboard player for a long time myself).
I will build case myself out of wood.
I'm going to buy these http://www.aliexpress.com/item/20PCS-of-Copy-Sanwa-OBSF-30-Push-Button-for-Arcade-Game-Machine-game-machine-parts/718536634.html OBSF-30, are they even legit Sanwas?
What PCB can you recommend? Cthulhu is kinda pricy (almost 50 pounds), with shipping Dual Strike will be almost the same (I'm im UK now). I have Saitek pad compatible with PC and PS3, it can be plundered for PCB, and I don't mind soldering, but I have no idea where to solder. This one should http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Arcade-Game-Controller-USB-Interface-PCB-Kit-for-PC-MAME-PS3-to-Mame/891924080.html work for PS3 / PC games, right?
Besides this and some wires, do I need anything else to make a controller? Like some special housings or whatever?

Build my cabinet

Caseyj123 — Wed, 22 May 2013 09:50:32 +0000

Hello guys,

I am thinking to build my owm cabinet :)
By chance someone remember the topic of this cabinet? ( see img. Join )

Thanks.

SANWA JLF-TRG-8YTH.SK vs Paradise Arcade silent omron kit (actuator/diagonal question)

sethian0 — Sat, 13 Apr 2013 09:33:56 +0000

So first off I am not putting down PAS. I love them. I just got a silent kit and put it on my JLF and I can't hit the diaganols for shit. I literally ride the gate and hit them 1/10th of the time. I know they use the exact same switches and an identical harness. And I know that they both use a .5 MM over sized actuator. My question is: Is paradise arcade's .55 over sized aluminum actuator a different shape then the white plastic one Sanwa sends out with their SANWA JLF-TRG-8YTH.SK ?

That's the only thing I can think that is different.

Also does anyone that owns a SANWA JLF-TRG-8YTH.SK have a hard time with diags compared to the stock jlf? I know the actuator is a little bigger and i know the OMRON D2RVG engage point is a lot deeper in than the stock JLF switches (hence the bigger actuator) but i cant imagine diagonals being that hard to hit.

Please, anyone with info on this let me know. I will also pass it along to PAS.

Thank you very much!!!

Seth

(I would just buy a SANWA JLF-TRG-8YTH.SK to test but I feel like I would be paying $75 for a 90c actuator)

(ps I know there was a similar topic on this matter but I believe it was having to do with hitting diagonals on zippy vs cherry

The NEW Official Arcade Stick Art Thread NO IMAGE QUOTING!

d3v — Wed, 25 May 2011 06:44:27 +0000

Spoiler:

The ff. are guidelines for uploading to the SRK Sticks imageboard.

Create an account at http://srksticks.booru.org/
In the Posts page, click on Add (near the bottom of the page).
Under Source, be sure to add the link to either the printer friendly version of the file (300dpi PSD or PDF) or your post in this thread.
Tags are separated by spaces, use "_" for tags with multiple words (e.g. "srk_sticks")
Check if your tags are similar to other existing tags, if they are, then use the existing ones.
Make sure to tag the artists involved
Rate your image honestly

Recent Purchases and Good Finds

Kyle — Sun, 23 Aug 2009 18:12:02 +0000

I've seen this on other forums lately and figured I would give it a try.

Pick up a HRAP for a steal? Find a SFAC stick at a garage sale? Post it here.

I'll start out:

I picked up a Namco PS1 stick for $40 shipped today. I've been after one for a while ever since MarkMan claimed it was his favorite stick. I have a few sticks now so I'm excited to give it a try.

Also recently got a ReKleSS Saturn to PS2 converter with a very nice condition Saturn pad for $42 from Ikagi-chan in the Trading Outlet. I was supposed to have gotten a PS2 Saturn pad a while back for $90 and I'm just as happy with this.

I know this isn't technically Tech Talk, but there's already a post about people's multi-thousand dollar entertainment setups. I won't posting be in there anytime soon.

Project: LLC Metal Replacement Panels Round 9 Stainless Steel

blklightning21 — Mon, 31 Jan 2011 07:13:45 +0000

LLC Steel Replacement Panels

General information and FAQ

Website-TheGameSurgeons

Hey Guys and Gals and welcome to your source for Metal Replacement Panels. These panels were made for the sole purpose of changing the layout of your manufactured arcade stick to a more personalized and preferred layout while at the same time giving the best support a panel can have, sometimes even stronger support than the stock panel.

Now another reason these panels were created were to allow for many different other joysticks to be mounted, including many different types of Japanese sticks, Korean sticks, and even Happ and IL sticks. Although these panels are able to mount different joysticks whether the joystick will mount properly depends entireley on the case depth. I will provide as much info on which joysticks are able to mount in which cases.

For more information regarding the panels and how to order please visit the Vital Information page and take your time reading up on all the important information.

Currently Supported Sticks

Madcatz TE(Stock Covers and Metal Replacement Panels)

HRAP 2/3/EX(Stock Covers and Metal Replacement Panels)

HRAP 1/T5/T6(Metal Replacement Panels Only)

Hori RAP VX/V3 SA(Stock Covers and Metal Replacement Panels)

Hori FS3/Wii/SC4(Stock Covers Only)

Sticks being worked on or on the radar

Madcatz SE

Hori EX2

Hori VLX

Hori Fighting Stick VX/V3

Qanba Q3

Madcatz Fightstick Pro

Japanese Buttons with Cherry Switches

RoboKrikit — Fri, 17 Jun 2011 10:48:29 +0000

Finally got some free time to sit down and mess with something I've been wanting to try for a while now: putting Cherry ("American-style", "clicky") microswitches in Sanwa and Seimitsu buttons.

Enter the OBS-30A and OBS-30B buttons.

You might have seen these on Akihabarashop, tucked away under Arcade > Buttons > Special. The buttons themselves are identical to the standard OBSx-30 button, but come fitted with the OBS-M-1 switch assembly (available separately). These use a high operating force Omron microswitch that has been riveted into place, so it is not easily removed. This is a very stiff switch, tested at ~75g on the RipOmeter. Works great in a Start or Select button, but it's pretty hard for a standard action button, unless you really like them tough.

Again, the OBS-M-1 switch is available by itself; you don't have to order OBS-30A/OBS-30B buttons if you already have OBSN/OBSF buttons, or other small-switch buttons (see Compatibility, below). Even separate from the buttons, they are still sold only with the riveted-in Omron V-10-1A4 microswitch, and are unfortunately a bit pricey at 380¥.

Luckily the microswitch is in the standard "miniature snap-action" form factor we're used to from western arcade parts, so if we remove the rivet, we're free to swap in whatever other switch we like.

Little bastard.

Disassembly

Core out the center a little bit with a 3/32" drill bit. Go slow, it is soft aluminum and will give way pretty easily. Something grippy between the clamp and the switch helps keep the slippery plastic from sliding away. I used some shelf liner.

That's the stuff.

Once you've removed several mm of material, step up to a 7/64" bit. Stop after a few seconds and pull out. If you're lucky, this will separate the riveted end from the rest of the bolt.

If you're not lucky, you'll have to manually tear away the remains of the rivet, but nothing should be damaged if you didn't go buckwild on the poor thing.

Once the riveted end is taken care of, poke out the bolt with a paper clip or something. Here's a lucky vs. unlucky mangled jerk bolt.

With the switch freed, you'll see the separate plastic housing and plunger components. 380¥ each to get these pieces of plastic. Maybe Per or another nice person can get Sanwa to do a run of these—sans switch—at a lower price. :D

The offset switch and plunger setup allows the plunger to be firmly centered over the actuator, giving you essentially direct contact to the switch. This is an improvement from Happ and similar buttons, which center the switch housing, making it necessary to actuate from the side of the plunger.

Of course the Sanwa plunger lacks the auxiliary spring of the Happ button, so the feel is different entirely. More on that in a sec.

Reassembly

Since we killed the only thing holding all of this together, we need something to bolt it back together with. Some #4-40 x 3/4" machine screws and nuts do the trick. I ended up using a nylon set with thumbscrews for later testing, since they were easier to get on and off.

The easiest way to install these is from underneath with the original switch removed, and the plunger already in place. Find the slot and pinch the assembly to get it in. It should click into place.

All set.

Compatibility

I found that these install flawlessly into Sanwa 30mm and 24mm buttons, and work pretty well in Seimitsu PS-14-K as well. The cutout in the Sanwa casing is ever so slightly tighter than the Seimitsus; you may need to work it a little in the PS-14-K to get it to seat firmly.

These do NOT work without modification in the low-clearance PS-15 buttons. The inside of the PS-15 where the switch assembly should sit is a little too thick. This could be probably worked around by removing a little material, but I haven't tried it yet.

Update: You need more than 3cm clearance below the bottom of the button casing to fit them into your joystick case. Make sure you factor in the additional clearance of any wiring or quick disconnects.

Spoiler:

These almost, almost fit in a stock Mad Catz TE. The ground post hits the horizontal plastic panel with the button holes in the center. You could probably get the top screwed down, but it's definitely in need of a couple millimeters of wiggle room. I think it might work with a thicker replacement plexi, but I don't have any to test with. You could also cut out some of the inner panel, like people have done with Happ mods.

I installed these in my HRAP2 SA test stick without issues. Haven't yet tried them in any other sticks.

Naturally you need .187 quick connect terminals to mate with these switches; the .110 terminals in most Japanese sticks like the HRAP and TE are too small. For testing purposes you can do this with .110 terminals:

Switches

Keep in mind that Sanwas don't have a spring in the plunger like Happ-styled buttons do, so the feel will be quite different from standard American arcade buttons. There is a certain similarity to them, but gone are the pinngggs of the spring, and the feel of each switch is lighter in comparison. Depending on the switch, the action can be even lighter than a typical Sanwa, or significantly heavier.

The actual feel of the switches, even when the force required to bottom out the switch is similar to stock Sanwas, is very different. In most of these microswitches there is distinct feedback felt when switch is actuated, with an audible click sound. The force required is usually higher at the top of the press, before the click, and softer afterward. This is in contrast to stock Sanwas or Seimitsus, which tend to increase a bit in force as you bottom out, and there is no feedback at the actuation point.

I tried out a few models of microswitches. These are my personal and entirely biased touchy-feely thoughts. Switch photos from Kowal's page on microswitches.

Cherry KWJ

The overall resistance of these switches is not very different from Sanwas, but with noticeable feedback and 'give' after the actuation. They actuate very near the top, then collapse immediately to bottom out. The click is audible. They feel a bit like Sanwas with clicky sounds. Unfortunately these switches are no longer made, but if you have any old Happ buttons around, they likely have this switch installed.

Cherry D44x

Medium resistance, similar to a Seimitsu or brand new Sanwa button, depending on how you think about it. It engages medium to medium-high, a little lower than the KWJ. Unlike the KWJ, there is still some resistance after the actuation, so there's a little cushion in the fall. This is what gives it a Sanwa-ish feel, however the buttons are much less sensitive than the Sanwas, requiring more force like Seimitsus. You can rest your fingers on these without pressing them, but they are not slow to respond.

E-Switch LS (image via LizardLick)

These are what come in Happs now that Happ has dropped Cherry. They seem to be reaching for a Cherry KWJ feel. The resistance is very similar, but the actuation point is a LOT lower, like almost near the bottom. The click is there, but happens about the same time as the clack of the button itself, so it is masked. Lacking the distinct click, these seem kind of like a snappy Sanwa.

Zippy 20g, "Groovy SST" (image via Paradise Arcade)

I ordered these from GroovyGameGear, where they were labeled as the Groovy Standard Soft-Touch, and pictured with an embossed Groovy name, but I received what appears to be a Zippy 20g switch that looks identical except for the embossed name. Guessing they are identical to these.
These are extremely light switches that feel like heavily broken-in Sanwas. The actuation point is lower, but they are so light that it is easy not to notice. They do not work well in the PS-14-K, as the heavy plunger will fail to return to the top if it encounters any friction at all.

GroovyMicro Premium Soft-Touch (does not work)
I got these from GroovyGameGear also, marketed as their premium switch. I believe these are only available as an option with their line of buttons. They're marked "VASCO", and while they feel like they require a tiny bit more force to depress and are smoother, the return is so light that it does not work even with stock Sanwas. The plungers are too heavy to return. Too bad, they seemed nice otherwise.

I tried the Versa Micro adjustable switch as well, but only on one setting so far. It seems easy to adjust to actuate at the top. I only have 2 so I haven't messed with these much.

My favorites are the KWJ and D44x, though I'll probably try the Zippy 20gs again. They're kinda fun. They're pretty easy to switch out so it's not so bad experimenting. D44x might be the best all-around switch for this, and it doesn't hurt that they are readily available.

Anyway, I hope this encourages someone else to try these out. They're pretty fly. The new stick I'm working on will have .187 connectors for these, so I'll experiment more with them once that is finished. Let me know if you build any of these yourself.

Hori Real Arcade Pro AX S+G

LiQuiD[EViL] — Mon, 11 Feb 2013 16:32:15 +0000

Seimitsu LS-32-01 lever, Sanwa OBSF-30RG buttons, Astro City layout.
http://iplaywinner.com/news/2013/2/8/hori-announces-special-real-arcade-pro-for-the-xbox-360-with.html
http://www.hori.jp/products/xbox360/controller/realarc_pro_ax_stg/

Art's Hobbies Big Update! 1/32" Acrylic, V.S., Pro, Qanba, HRAP V3/VX, Custom Art Dustwashers.

arthong — Mon, 30 Mar 2009 23:40:31 +0000

Website: Welcome to Art's Hobbies

Big Update 3/4/2012

Hey guys! It's been a while since I've had the chance to be more active around here, and provide the occasional updates and question sessions. Long story short, I picked up consulting on a software project for the County. So between working on that and taking care of orders, I've been pretty beat up, trying to balance everything. Even with some added help in the business, I'm still the only one to answer emails and work on the more customized orders, so I have been a bit overwhelmed, particularly over the winter season and tournament seasons.

Now that my county project is at a phase where I can take a break, and after I had a little opportunity to relax, I'm refreshed and back with updates! And what timing too... with the V.S., Pro, and other new things coming out! Here's some things on the plate.

1/32" Acrylic!
This is one of the biggest things for me. For a while, I've had people ask me about 1/32" options, and I always had to turn them down because the only material that is normally available in that thickness, is Polycarbonate (Lexan). I've mentioned before that laser cutting Lexan can emit potentially toxic fumes and tends to discolor and burn the edges. So for a while I've been searching for an acrylic option in 1/32" thickness. Some places could make normal acrylic in that thickness, but it becomes way too brittle. Regardless, I continued to look for options.

Now, finally I have found a source that carries 1/32" Impact Modified Acrylic. This material is 10x stronger than normal acrylic, and is perfect for a thin alternative to Polycarbonate. It's incredibly flexible and more than durable enough for fight stick purposes, even for those times of pushing down hard to snap in buttons. Also, Acrylic has the advantage over Polycarbonate in that it is crystal clear (more clarity), less prone to scratches and will not yellow over time when exposed to UV (sunlight). Here are some images for you to compare.

Incredibly flexible and durable. (It can bend more than this)

Superior clarity. And this is after it was bent.

So I'm very excited to offer this new line of acrylics. This idea of 1/32" Impact Modified Acrylic is still so new, that most plastic businesses either haven't even heard of it, or still don't carry it in that thickness. Trust me, I've called like over 30 companies in California alone, and only one out of those 30 knew what I was talking about.

I'm aiming to make these available on my site in a few weeks. I just ordered a huge batch of them so I still need to wait for them to arrive, while also updating a lot of other products and the need to code in a lot of new options on my site.

Madcatz Street Fighter x Tekken V.S. Fightstick

As it's already mentioned in the V.S. thread, covers for the Top, Bottom, Sides and Corners have been worked on. The templates are currently available. That case is incredibly modifiable and easy to personalize. There's more that can be done and I'll continue looking at ways to offer more options to spice things up. More info and pictures in that thread:

V.S. Thread - Post 1
V.S. Thread - Post 2

Madcatz Street Fighter x Tekken Pro Fightstick

I've also got the Pro Top and Bottom covers. More info and pictures in the Pro thread here:

SFxT Pro Post

Qanba Plexi and Artwork

I've had a lot of requests for this but while working on my other projects, I really couldn't give an answer to working on a new stick. Now, I finally had a chance to complete the Qanba plexi. It also has Laser 3D engraved countersunk holes so you can use the existing screws. This method of countersinking can only be done on 1/8" or thicker material, otherwise it can cause thinner plexi to become too brittle and crack. So thank goodness Qanba plexi's are 1/8" thick.

I understand Qanba has their own plexis, but I was told it can some times be too large for some of the fightsticks and some sanded was necessary. Well, I modeled my template from the original Qanba plexi, and the person whom I've worked with (Motoyuki) has confirmed that everything fits perfectly without sanding (as he had to do with his replacement Qanba plexi from another source). Additionally, this will allow me to offer Artwork print and Cut services and other plexi color options for the many different colors Qanba has.

HRAP V3/VX and Artwork.

Finally, I get a chance to work on the V3/VX. It's been on my plate for a while, and I finally got to it. One of the things that stalled this project were the issues with the countersunk screw holes that could put a lot of stress on regular acrylic. But with the 1/32" Impact Modified acrylic, it is no longer an issue!

Notice, like the MadCatz Pro, I did not cut the middle screw hole as the screw there would very likely cause discomfort with game play, since it's so close to the lower button.

The necessary screws to install the plexi/artwork, as well as giving you top access for modifications, will also be included. Will be coming in another week or two along with all the other new additions =).

Here is the VX/V3 Template.

( Taokaka design by Stoogie )

TE Soul Calibur V Covers. (In Madcatz TE Section, scroll down a little to see them)

HORI Soul Calibur V

Custom Artwork Dustwashers Return!

When I first introduced these, they were laminated by a clear acrylic laminate spray. Unfortunately, that spray produced some technical difficulties in its application and made it difficult to produce a consistent, good quality product. So for a while, I was trying to look for an alternative. It took some time because most laminates that were presented to me, usually had some type of vinyl, polycarbonate, or pvc element to it, all of which are bad for laser cutting.

Well, finally I found a great quality overlaminate that is safe for laser cutting. So now, I can bring back the custom artwork dustwashers that many have emailed me about, and with more consistent quality.

Here are some closeups of some SFxT Dustwasher samples.

Custom Artwork dustwashers will be available again this upcoming week.

Alright, that was a ton of stuff. Time to get some rest. Hopefully I get to talk to some of you guys again, and get a chance to check out everyone's stick posts. Been seeing great things! Thanks again for everyone's support! Have a good one!

-Arthur

Also, Shoutout to JDM. Thanks for all your help to answer questions while I wasn't around on my threads. You rock!

Please check my website for more details : Welcome to Art's Hobbies

Official FA Sparky PWM RGB LED Controller Thread

jmanDMC — Sat, 29 Oct 2011 04:47:09 +0000

Hey all,

Most players in Tech Talk are familiar with the works of Eugene Andruszczenko (aka 32Teeth), the creator of the highly programmable Sparky PWM RGB LED Controller. With his blessing to work with this open source project, and the help of Paradise Arcade, we now offering a great version of this product at Focusattack.com. It is shipping today and worldwide for just $32.95.

Purchase the Sparky RGB LED Controller at focusattack.com

What is the Sparky?

For those who aren't familiar with the Sparky RGB LED Controller is a programmable RGB LED companion light up activation controller for pushbuttons on gaming fightsticks. The controller allows you to create unlimited color combinations through varying levels of red green and blue, along with changing colors upon a combination of button press. It allows you to program lighting patterns either manually through specific button combinations, or via the "Configurator" - a multi-platform application that gives you total control over your color transitions.

Sparky PWM Features

Among other features the Sparky PWM has the following:

Ability to display the full spectrum of color through RGB LEDs
Support for 6 or 8 button configurations
Ability to map color to specific buttons or button combinations (ie assign Red to Light Punch, Blue to Medium Kick, or Orange to Focus Attack (MP+MK))

While the Sparky PWM itself isn't new, the redesigned Sparky comes with 2 wiring harnesses to ease installation across buttons:

5-wire RGB and ground harness
16-wire power and .110 quick disconnect harness for buttons

To make the installation a solder-less experience, we currently include 34 wiring connectors. The connectors allow you to insert wires into the ports to replicate an electrical connection. Four per button are provided, plus one for each of the power connections for total of 34 connectors (8 x 4 plus 2, or 34 total).

Programming the Sparky PWM

The "Configurator" is a Windows and Mac OS X compatible application that interfaces with your joystick's LEDs through its USB port. Once connected, the application lets you choose your schema (button or button combination), then choose the color you want. You can also choose fade/fade out options. Once completed, the action is displayed on your button LED directly on your controller. You can download it on the Sparky website.

http://sparky.32teeth.org/downloads.html

So what is the point of this thread?

This thread is meant to address questions you might have regarding the redesigned Sparky PWM, plus how to program your Sparky to it's full potential. Several experienced builders will visit the thread to post notes, videos and answer some questions regarding both units. These people include

32Teeth - creator of the original Sparky PWM LED Controller has offered to post helpful notes once he gets the new Sparky.
armi0024 - founder of Paradise Arcade Shop has expertise in many types of LED installs and components.
Nerrage - well known and respected member of SRK's Tech Talk team and founder of the non-profit organization Sticks for Joy.

And of course, you. We definitely welcome any feedback and helpful answers that you can give to players that ask questions here. We hope that this thread may complement the existing Sparky PWM thread here on SRK.

Resources

Related YouTube playlists

Original Sparky RGB LED Controller Thread on SRK

Thanks for reading!

Hit Box - We so S Tier1!!

Husser_Brian — Mon, 06 Dec 2010 20:42:59 +0000

Welcome to the Hit Box community! Please read this first post for up-to-date Hit Box information!

[media=youtube]dGU1d-cmtuQ[/media]
http://www.hitboxarcade.com
http://www.youtube.com/hitboxes

Visit our Super Street Fighter IV Hit Box Thread

FAQ

Spoiler:

1. What is the Hit Box?

The Hit Box all-button controller, AKA the "Stickless Stick," is a game controller specifically designed for fighting games. We replaced the joystick with directional buttons that are controlled by your fingers.

2. Why buttons?

By using 4 directional buttons controlled by 4 fingers, you gain:

- Increased input speed
- Consistent inputs yield fewer mistakes
- Exclusive control over your movement
- No travel time inputting directions
- Button techniques apply to movement and special inputs (plinking, piano, double tap, slide)
- Game-specific features such as SSFIV input shortcuts (such as walking dragon punches)
- No unintentional inputs such as accidental jumps
- No arm/wrist motion
- Stays put in your lap

3. Are those smaller buttons than normal?

Yes. We use 24mm Sanwa pushbuttons with exception to the 'Up' button, which is 30mm. They are highly sensitive buttons and work perfectly. 24 mm buttons are able to be brought closer together and fit the natural curve of the human hand. When the button spread is closer together, players find all buttons directly at their finger tips with no hand-hovering.

4. Can I still execute throws and focus attacks on this smaller layout?

Yes.

5. What about plinking and double tapping my combo links?

Of course.

6. Why have a shared jump button for your thumbs?

It is larger than the other buttons so both thumbs can access "Up" depending on player preference. By utilizing this, you can perform advanced "joystick" motions easily. Tri-jumps and Tiger Knee inputs are much faster and more accurate. It also makes many Just-Frame inputs incredibly easy.

8. Who is this for? Do I need keyboard experience?

While it appears to share the most common ground with a keyboard, Hit Box is a balance between Joystick, Pad, and Keyboard together. You dont need background in any controller to appreciate the Hit Box: Anyone can use it!

9. Can I still do everything I can do on my joystick?

Everything and more.

10. What about Hadokens and Dragon Punches and SPDs?

Yes. Quickly and accurately.

11. What about "______'s ________ combo"?

Yes.

12. Is there a learning curve?

The learning curve is creating fast, new memory in your fingers. It doesn't take long. This also gets rid of old bad habits too!

13. Are these for advanced players only?

No! The benefits of these boxes can be appreciated by everyone from the beginning player to the most advanced tournament player. The whole purpose of the Hit Box is to aide your fundamentals and build your foundation so that you can focus on what actually matters in a match: your opponent.

14. What happens when you hold the Left and Right buttons together?

Left + Right = Neutral. Your character will stand still. No charging or blocking occurs.

15. Can I hold Left and Right to block cross ups?

No. Left + Right = Neutral; you will get hit in the face.

18. Can I walk forward and charge a sonic boom?

No.

19. Can I hold Back and perform shoryuken motions?

No. Left + Right = Neutral.

20. Is "Left + Right = Neutral" useless?

No! Left + Right is the basis for many advanced techniques that will make your life easier! You get access to 3-frame dashes, 1-button FADCs, rapid dragon punches, new option selects, safe and easy Korean backdash cancelling, and much more! Left + Right will help your execution significantly. Check out all of the tech in our video section!

Combo Videos

Spoiler:

Super Street Fighter IV
King of Fighters XIII
Mortal Kombat 9
The 1812 Piledriver

How to Hit Box Tutorials

Spoiler:

Basic Motions:
Quarter Circle Motions
Dragon Punch Motion and Shortcuts
Charge Motions 1 - Sonic Boom
Charge Motions 2- Flash Kick
Half Circle Motion
360 Motion
720 Motion

Movement:
KoF XIII Jump Types
Dashing
UMvC3 Wavedash
UMvC3 Tri-dash
UMvC3 Float Cancels

Technique:
SSFIV FADC
Walking Ultra Shortcut
Tiger Knee
Piano
Standing 720 Introduction
Cardinal 360's
Slides
Standing 720

MK9 Basics

MK9 Instant Air Fireball

3D Fighters:

SC5 - Introduction to 3D

Tekken - Backdash Cancels

Tekken - Just Frame EWGF, OTGF, JFSR

Tekken - Mishima Wavedash

DOA5 - Rapid Step

SC5 - Critical Edge Shortcut

Interactive Learning Tools

Spoiler:

SSFIV - Basic Motions
UMvC3 Wolverine/Akuma BFF
UMvC3 Sentinel
KoFXIII Takuma
KoFXIII Kim
KoFXIII Hwa Jai
SC5 Ivy CS
SSFIV Standing 720

Product Info

Spoiler:

HIT BOX - PS3/PC
$169.99
Shipping:
$20.00 in United States
40.00 USD Canada/Mexico
60.00 USD International

Sturdy Metal Case (16" x 7" x 2")
Compatible with PlayStation 3 and PC
Professional Powder Coat of Black Paint
Artwork Underneath Plexiglass
Easy Button Replacement / Modification with Quick Disconnects
Proven, Patented, Ergonomic Hit Box Layout
Toodles Cthulu PS3/PC Board (SOCD Firmware Controlled)
15' USB Cable with Velcro strap
Authentic Sanwa Buttons (24mm & 30mm)
Cases Made in USA
Plexiglass / Artwork Made in USA
Hit Boxes Assembled in USA

HIT BOX - MULTI CONSOLE
$225.00 USD
Shipping:
$20.00 in United States
40.00 USD Canada/Mexico
60.00 USD International

Compatible with: PlayStation 3, Xbox 360, PC
Sturdy Metal Case (16" x 7" x 2")
Professional Powder Coat of Black Paint
Artwork Underneath Plexiglass
Easy Button Replacement / Modification with Quick Disconnects
Proven, Patented, Ergonomic Hit Box Layout
Akishop Customs PS360+ PCB (SOCD Firmware Controlled)
15' USB Cable with Velcro Strap
Authentic Sanwa Buttons (24mm & 30mm)
Rubber Feet for Support and Stability
Cases Made in USA
Plexiglass / Artwork Made in USA
Hit Boxes Assembled in USA

http://www.hitboxarcade.com

PS360+ Multi-Console Edition Hit Box

Spoiler:

Cthulhu PS3/PC Edition

Spoiler:

COM 2 JVS I/O (NAOMI) EMULATION PROJECT

elkiman — Fri, 17 May 2013 13:01:51 +0000

Hello to the community. Im elkiman and i want to present my project com2jvs: its a software based solution to change the jvs i/o board and put a pc with com port and with direct input use the pc joystick, racing wheel, pc guns into the naomi sistem via RS485 (pc com to naomi 485).

The next week i try to update with my test with the new version of the emulation software (for now only makes communication).

Its the beggining of the project and i need documentation and if someone can help reply this message.

Joystick (JLF) tension

-=STARANG=- — Wed, 22 May 2013 15:25:39 +0000

Hey guys, sorry if I am posting in the wrong section or if this topic has already been discussed but I have been wondering if it it better to play games like SSF4 ae and umvc3 with a loose stick or a tighter stick. I am a player who takes pride in my execution but have found myself to be getting worse at pulling off moves when it is crucial. I just wanted to get some insight on this and if it would be better to put another spring in my JLF shaft to make it tighter or just work harder with the stick loose.

Modding/Converters for a PS3/PC Hitbox

LD50 — Thu, 23 May 2013 04:31:12 +0000

Hi guys. A friend offered to sell his PS3/PC only hitbox, barely used. I am impatient and want to use it right away for IGAU. Some of my friends play on Xbox, and some east coast tourneys near me seem to play IGAU on xbox.

I was wondering if anyone knew for fact of any converters that let PS3 hitboxes play well, without delays or problems, on a 360. If not, how about modding? Does that ever cause problems with the Hitbox or delays on 360? Or does it work perfect once modded?

I know hitbox sells a Dual-console one directly but I am impatient and want my hands on a Hitbox quicker than when theres will be in stock.

Thanks.

How do stream/tournament setups record while using VGA?

mason — Wed, 22 May 2013 23:28:48 +0000

So basically around here we are trying to get our tournament finals recorded. This is on Xbox 360 btw.
We use my monitor which is the ASUS VH238H (less than 1 frame of lag according to the sub 1 frame thread) and I usually use it with VGA. From what I've heard over the years VGA causes less lag than HDMI cause of post-processing or something of the like.

At our last tournament, we had an Avermedia Capture Card recording on my setup. It only worked through HDMI, so we had to use that and it felt laggy for me. I had been practicing so long on VGA, when we switched to HDMI I couldn't hit my Sakura combos in AE that I was so comfortable with.

Now I don't know if this was just tournament nerves or not, but should it be laggier or was it just in my head?

Just to be consistent with US majors and the like, should I just try to adjust with playing on HDMI and should we stick to it like this or is there another option so we can keep using VGA?

Lack of Seimitsu products?

ManRightChea — Mon, 20 May 2013 07:46:43 +0000

You know it seems pretty odd to me that it is almost unheard of for the mass market arcade sticks to be offered with Seimitsu parts. You would think Hori or MCZ would release modern versions of their arcade sticks with Seimitsu parts. I guess the same could be said for Korean parts such as Fanta/Crown. I know Hori once produced the EX-SE model for the X360 that was full Seimitsu but that is a non-common ground stick based on the older HRAP body. I do hope that a competitor in the market steps up with a fully Seimitsu or fully Fanta/Crown arcade stick. I guess the same can be said for Happ/iL albeit to a lesser extent.

I gave my cousin my old EX-SE a while back and I must say, people really sleep on Seimitsu, they produce very good parts. I was thinking of building a Seimitsu unit with a more mod friendly and modern design, I just find it weird that they are so completely ignored.

Street Fighter X Tekken Arcade Fightstick V.S.

MetuulGuitarist7 — Tue, 10 Jan 2012 19:54:17 +0000

it can also be connected to a 2nd one

like that

it looks really good but the $200 price tag kinda scares me.

Updated 360 controller mac driver, Hori EX2, Mad Catz SFIV Sticks

Wed, 29 Apr 2009 23:49:38 +0000

Hi folks,

Following on from these two threads

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=178075&page=2
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=166197

I've updated the mac 360 controller driver to support the Hori EX2, and the two Mad Catz sticks, the SE and TE.

I've only tested the driver with the EX2 and Mad Catz SFIV SE, but if the info I recieved was right the TE stick should work fine too.

If anyone can pass on the info needed (as explained in the first post of the 2nd linked thread) for the HRAP EX stick, I'll place that in an updated driver.

The link to the updated driver is as follows.

Its gone :)

Any feedback on the status of the TE stick would be greatfull, and I hope you guys have as much fun with MAME as I do

Edit:

This driver should just install, quick restart and work, no playing around with .plist files or repairing permissions or messing with the terminal, enjoy!

Update:

I've included the MadCatz SFIV pad, their Retro Arcade Stick and their 4716 pad in new build, link is as folows.

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=D9G21G3S

Still waiting on the info for the HRAP EX and I'll include that in a new build.

Enjoy :)

Akihabarashop.jp is now OPEN

TheRealNeoGeo — Wed, 15 Feb 2006 19:24:35 +0000

Akihabarashop.jp is now OPEN!

Now, some prices seem high and some low but what you get when you buy is 100% fresh parts from Sanwa/Seimitsu and not "old" stuff from secondhand dealers. All orders are shipped from Japan directly to the customer.
If you have any questions then feel free to post them in this thread and I try my best to answer them.

Arigato :).
AkihabaraShop.jp

***Disclaimer***

Akihabara Shop is not responsible for packages lost or damaged during transit. We will always take a photograph of your order before shipping out, but when it is shipped it is out of our hands. We cannot be held responsible for customs or other local taxes imposed when a parcel reaches its destination, please find out what applies to your country before ordering.

*Other*
Sanwa and Seimitsu Catalogs:
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/catalogs/Sanwa1011.pdf
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/catalogs/Seimitsu2010.pdf

Help Needed! TE Stick on Mac OS X

Thu, 26 Feb 2009 15:04:24 +0000

Hello

I am trying to get my TE fightstick to work on Mac OS X and have tried the .kext at http://tattiebogle.net/index.php/ProjectRoot/Xbox360Controller/OsxDriver but nothing is happening.

I have researched and read that the plist may need updating but when I go into System/Library/Extensions there is nothing there but apparently it should have a folder titled 360controller/etc etc.

I have installed it many times for the different versions but have come up with no solution. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Modding SSF4AE for PC (NO DLC UNLOCKS!)

hunterk — Tue, 05 Jul 2011 13:35:47 +0000

This thread is for discussing the technical aspects of modding SF4AE. It is not for submitting skins. Do that in this other thread, instead.

If you're just getting into modding, hit up the tutorials on the modding wiki. Most everything still functions similarly to vanilla SF4, but the engine doesn't use emz bundles for costumes/colors anymore.

I will update this first post with some frequently asked questions as they arise, so please read it before asking.

Fixing the street fighter 4 standard edition fightstick

BoldfacedBrad — Wed, 22 May 2013 01:03:31 +0000

So I've had this problem for a while. My sf fightstick has issues with the corners. Every time I try to jump by using one of the corners sometimes ill jump others ill do nothing and its been bugging me. So I know my options are basically get a new fightstick entirely and replacing the part but just trying to see if there was maybe a remedy for this. If not ismit better to sell it and buy a different one or just replace the stick

UD-CPS2: Fully Consolized Capcom Play System 2

undamned — Thu, 29 Sep 2011 18:17:13 +0000

Introduction -

Alright, folks, here it is, a fully consolized CPS2. And when I say fully consolized I don't mean with some monstrous external power supply and DB 15 connectors that require custom joysticks or adapters. I'm talking about a setup where everything is "off the shelf."

The core elements of this project are: Power, Video, and Controls:

Power - Internal DC/DC converter. An off the shelf laptop charger supplies this board with power which is then converted to proper voltages necessary to run everything inside.

Video - [NTSC] Composite, S-Video, and low resolution RGB+S (no component). Uses a standard off the shelf Playstation A/V port cable.

Controls - 2 Player XBOX 360 and PS3 controller support. Yes, you just plug and play.

Photos of one of my prototypes:

Location Tests -

Devastation 2011 - Phoenix, AZ (early prototype, hard-wired controls)

Evolution 2012 - Las Vegas, NV (prototype, USB support)

This is It! 2012 - Tucson, AZ (prototype, USB support)

F.A.Q. -

Ordering:

Spoiler:

Q: Can I pre-order one of these now?
A: I am not opening up pre-orders for this quite yet. When I am ready to order parts in bulk and build these in batches, I will likely open up for pre-orders. Until then, hang tight and when I am ready to release these to the public, this post will be updated with a link to a sales thread.

Q: If I can't pre-order, can I get on some sort of waiting list?
A: I really just want to focus on getting to full production before I worry about who was in line first. I have no intention of limiting production on this, so Lord permitting, there will be plenty.

General:

Spoiler:

Q: What region/color B Board (Game Cartridge) will run on the UD-CPS2?
A: The standard compatibility for the UD-CPS2 is US/Blue and JP/Green (and RENTAL/Yellow, as far as I know). If one desires to play ASIA/Grey or SA/Orange games, a custom order can be placed for a unit which is compatible with (only!) one of those.

Q: I already have a laptop power supply. Can I save money on my order and just use mine?
A: No. I'd rather you start with a setup that has already been guaranteed to work than spend any time trying to figure out why power supply x isn't working properly.

Q: I already have an A Board. Can I save money on my order and just send you mine?
A: Yes. You can save $20 off of your order by doing so. If you do the math on the cost of shipping vs. what you are saving, it makes sense to just keep your A Board. The only instances I can recommend sending me your A Board are: 1.) I am out of A Boards, 2.) you would like an ASIA/Grey or SA/Orange compatible system, or 3.) you want an absolutely mint condition A Board and you happen to have one.

Q: Will this still work on an arcade cabinet?
A: No. The intent of this device is to reach outside of the arcade savvy audiences, so no effort has been made to retain those functions.

Video Related:

Spoiler:

Q: I'm tired of lugging around a heavy CRT TV to gatherings/tournaments. Being able to hook this up to a monitor would be a huge convenience. Is there any way to have Component Video available for this?
A: Not natively. You could run the UD-CPS2's RGBS output through an RGB to Component transcoder (like this) to output 240p Component Video, but any HD monitor (that actually supports 240p) must upscale that resolution in order to display it. Upscaling inevitably adds lag to your setup, therefore (non-HD) CRTs are the lag free display of choice for this system.

Q: I would like to stream/capture video from this unit. Do you have a recommended setup?
A: In the realm of standard resolution, the highest video quality for the least amount of hardware headache is certainly S-Video. By simply running S-Video and Stereo Audio to a distribution amplifier (like this or CE Labs AV 400SV) you can run both the player setup and stream/capture setup at excellent quality with fairly little extra hardware/cabling.

Q: Will this output PAL video?
A: No. There are no immediate plans to add PAL support.

Spinoff Products -

Look forward to some spinoff products regarding the USB host, such as USB to DB-15. Based on some interest, I'll also be making available the internal DC/DC converter so people can use those in their own consolization/supergun projects! When those are available, I will update this post with a link to a separate thread.

The rest of this thread is a work log from early in the project up to the present...

Need Help - Lag Spikes

jKingJulien — Mon, 13 May 2013 20:47:58 +0000

Hello guys,
I need some help because since I bought my new PC (AlienWare X51) a week ago, I have some annoying spikes lag every 1 or 2 minutes which completely freeze my screen for a sec which is very annoying in SF4.
Here is what I see on the task manager when those lags happen: http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/1146/lagspikesf.png (the last spike).

Does anyone have any ideas on how I could correct this?

All my drivers are updated, I'm on windows 8. And those lags also happen on other games, so It's not specific to SF4.
It's been a week that I'm trying to find out what causes this!

Thanks guys!

General Troubleshooting & Repair Guide

Darksakul — Fri, 24 Jun 2011 04:04:13 +0000

The purpose of this guide is to cover common and basic issues with Arcade sticks, how to find and spot the issue and repair the arcade stick. This guide doesn't cover all situations or pacific brands or PCBs.

For a particular board I would direct you to that board's thread and read there.

Okay your Stick do not work as it should, what will you do?

Step 1: First off calm down and approach the issue rationally. Being angry and flustered helps no one.

Step 2: Identify the issue. What is wrong with your stick? Not responding, broken button, direction on the joystick not registering?

Step 2B: Is your stick NEW or OLD. If you have a new retail/ commercial stick this would be the time to take advantage of the manufacturer's Warranty. If this is a Custom stick please contact your stick builder. Please note individual custom stick builders (usually)do not offer warranties and have no obligation to help, especially if you get angry with them. Please give stick builders a few days (aprox 7 days) to contact you to sort the issue out.

Step 3: This is if you are repairing the stick your self, once you identify the issue you need to go and trouble shoot the problem.

Step 4: Repair

Step 5: Recover. This includes reasembily and any finishing touches. If you working on a Computer you be uninstalling programs and apps you installed to make a fix (like mal-ware removal tools, cleaner apps ect).

Also All repairs can be broken down in 4 steps so, this applies to anything including PCs, Cars, Medicine, air craft ect...

1. Diagnose the device
2. Assets the problem
3. Repair
4. Recover

Tools Needed:

Screw drivers Both Phillips and flat head, depending on the stick you need multiple sizes.
The correct bit to open the top and/or bottom panels of your stick, this might include hex keys or some security bit to loosen these screws.
Paper and Pencil, you will be taking notes
Multi-meter or continuity tester. Preferably a Multi-meter, although for some test a continuity tester works too.
Needle nose pliers
Wire cutters, Wire Strippers and Crimpers. These can be separate tools or a all-in-one tool
A Digital camera. To take images of your stick, use this prior to disassembly.
Soldering iron, solder and soldering accessories.
Electric tape (not masking tape, gift wrap tape or duct tape) or shrink wrap tubing.

List of known malfunctions and possible causes.

Non working Arcade stick

Is the stick plunged into your game system and the game system turned on?
Is your stick set to the correct player? Player 1, Player 2 and so on.
Is the stick the correct controller for that system? For Dual Mods is the stick set to the correct mode? This applies to Automatic, Button presses mode changes as well as DPDT switch Dual-Mods.
Are you using your Arcade Stick with a PC? What Chip set you have on your mother board? Are the Drivers Installed?
The controller cable is damage or disconnected (on most modern sticks this is a USB cable)
The Printed Circuit board is disconnected or damaged.

Non working push buttons.

With the stick plugged into the CORRECT system and the system is on?
Is your stick set to the correct player? Player 1, Player 2 and so on.
is the wires to the push button/ push button micro switch are connected properly to the wiring and that wiring to the PCB?
Remove the push button, using the 2 exposed wire ends or quick disconnects, will the button signal respond when the 2 wire ends touch?
Does the button show Continuity when the button is pushed?
Comparing to a working push button do you see a High or Low change in the voltage on that button's line?

Non-Working Joystick.

With the stick plugged into the CORRECT system and the system is on?
Is your stick set to the correct player? Player 1, Player 2 and so on.
Is the stick selector set to "LS", "DP" or "RS", Set it to the correct setting, usually this is DP on consoles.
Is each of the four cardinal directions, Up, down , left and Right responds?
Do the four corner directions respond?
If you have a 4/8 way gate (usually square) is the gate set to 4 way or 8 way play.
Do you have a 2 way gate?
Is your wiring harness is plugged in correctly and in the correct orientation. its common for the stock wire harness for some sticks (specially the TE) to be installed upside down.
Does the Microswitches show continuity?
is the wires/ wire harness to the joystick/ joystick micro switches are connected properly
Is the wires/ wire harness is connected to the correct way? No backwards wire harnesses or wires connected to the wrong switch?

jdm714 wrote:

Darksakul, when people say that their Directionals lag, it is usually because LS.
When people say the Joystick one day just die, it is usually RS.

Kasucodes 2013 build thread

Kasucode — Wed, 03 Apr 2013 09:39:43 +0000

I have a few things I’d like to share with you guys, but first I would like to reintroduce myself as I have been very busy and have not posted on the forums in quite some time. My real name is Patrick York, feel free to call me by my handle, Kasucode. After being introduced to the FGC back in 2008 it wasn’t until 2010 I decided to drop pad and build myself a stick.
Previous build thread

After building a couple for fun I have had many requests to build custom sticks. It wasn’t until early last year finishing the X-23 and later this stick

Video in action
(also Eternal Blazes, shown at CEO 2012) that I decided I love working with metal.

For months I worked on designs for a new stick in my off time but was never truly happy with anything not because of a lack of creativity but because I simply didn’t have all the tools I needed to produce the quality I wanted. It was then I decided I would take it to the next level. After many months of saving I’ve finally got together most of what I need to start building again.

I am happy to announce that I’m now a full time stick builder. Prepare yourself for badassery!

My new stick logo

KCD short for KasucodeDesigns also "KO" knock out
My first line of sticks will be called the Knockout series.

I plan to have a few different models that will be completely different and offer something for everyone. All my sticks will primarily be offered as DIY cases for less overhead and faster build times. I will offer many customization options in a stick builder so you have more control over how your stick looks.
I’ll have more info on this in the coming month. For now I’m focused on building the first few prototypes.

I love build threads and I’m sure I’m not the only one. I just starting bringing my designs to life last night and I would love to continue showing the progress for some of the sticks I build so ill be using this thread as my ongoing log.

Painting the Fightstick (With Krylon or Vinyl Dye)

Inverse — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 22:12:01 +0000

Edit: Feel free to post your painted SE/TE or whatever project in this thread. Provide tips on your experience or any questions. If ya mess up, it's cool cuz then maybe someone can learn from your mistakes like I hope others learned from mine. Let us know what you did, what paint you used and anything you learned from it.

Krylon Guide
http://pages.videotron.com/thief/

Vinyl Dye Guide
http://www.gideontech.com/content/articles/202/1

Spraying my Madcatz Fightstick SE down now. 90% of the entire thing perfect. Looks beautiful, except for three drips side by side on the front of the case. All the guides say they will eventually vanish, these pooled up and dried like that. Now the drips themselves are darker than the rest of the work, and are very noticeable. I do not think they are going to vanish on their own.

Sanded it down with 800, then 600 grit as I would with regular spray paint and respraying does nothing. It's so much darker than the rest of the work that it's totally visible. Kind of dissapointed in this stuff. (Krylon Fusion)

Spray paint, when sanded down, at least covers up when resprayed. This stuff won't. Not as "simple" as everyone raves about it. The stuff is so thin I can still see the lettering on the plastic. I thought it'd be a little more effective at painting than this. 4 coats of it and it's as if the last one wasn't there.

What can I do?

Edit: Apparently Krylon Fusion is NOT Vinyl Dye. Like 3 different places on this forum set you up to think so, but it's not. I just ruined the damn case. All Krylon is is a Vinyl Dye wannabe. Regular paint that adheres to plastics better. No wonder the damn drip didn't "seep" into the plastic.

Let it be known here, that Krylon Fusion, regardless of what the guy at the damn auto parts store tells you, is NOT vinyl dye. Why is this topic so unheard of with people? I went to three different auto parts stores, and did searches on many forums and everyone reccomended Krylon as Vinyl Dye, when it's not. Now I can't use Vinyl Dyde ever, ever, ever on my case cuz it's been painted on.

Maybe this thread will be of use to someone. I got sanding to do. -_-

Injustice: Gods Among Us Battle Edition Arcade Stick

Nucking Futs! — Wed, 16 Jan 2013 00:59:24 +0000

EDIT: 4/15/13

Kaihong was nice enough to offer detailed pics & dissection starting with this post:

http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/8091923/#Comment_8091923

Details:

Case material: Plastic with spray on (?!?) soft rubber matte black texture & thin foam bottom panel. Clear top panel is plastic. There are no metal panels. Also has a detachable 10+ feet USB cable.

Artwork: Heavy duty cardstock underneath the top panel.

Components: All Qanba-based (Omron microswitches for the joystick lever just like in a Sanwa JLF) with individual button & joystick lever LED's. Black bat-top & clear shaft cover.

Weight: ~3.5 - 4.0 pounds.

Modding: Hex screws on the top panel & Phillips screws on the bottom panel. Will fit both Sanwa & Seimitsu 30mm buttons & ball-tops.

Additional features: Two options for the LED's (on & pulse aka vibration as there are no vibrating motors). Lockout of Start, Select/Back & Home.

FWIW, the game developers are the same one's that did MKvDCU & the MK-series. Just like the previous PDP MK sticks (TE & Klassic) surprisingly, it has excellent fit & finish. This Gamestop exclusive bundle is for the PS3 & 360 but not for the WiiU (the mention of this in their PR is an error they retracted).

http://www.joystiq.com/2013/01/15/injustice-gods-among-us-hits-april-16-batte-edition-revealed/

PS3:

http://www.gamestop.com/ps3/games/injustice-gods-among-us-battle-edition/107664

360:

http://www.gamestop.com/xbox-360/games/injustice-gods-among-us-battle-edition/107663

Edit 2 (4-8-13): Credit goes to forum member, DirtyLary:

From here: http://twitpic.com/ci0g1k

Credit goes to forum member, butteroj:

Credit goes to forum member, LiQuiD[EViL]:

Paradise Arcade Shop, LED Joysticks, Buttons, Mods and more

armi0024 — Sat, 30 Apr 2011 19:29:43 +0000

We have been floating around for a little while posting and received a recommendation to start a thread. Paradise Arcade Shop is based in Hawaii, working to bring a variety of controls to the arcade and fight stick market. We carry a number of different options for price points in both sticks and buttons, but we only sell products that we would use. That means, there is a difference between a Porsche and a Toyota, we see a place for both of those in the market, and we won't sell Toyota's at Porsche prices.

I say "we" as Ponyboy likes to harass me about, because the company is my wife and I. For those of you who have ordered already(thank you) she packs the orders and answers about 90% of the emails (mostly logisitics, but she is answering the "How to I light an LED" questions now) This is also her full time job and my part time job. She works hard to send out all stock items in 1-2 days, and rides my ass about the cutsom builds so they stay close to 1-3 days(We build LED sticks to order, and some of our game systems)

I have been an active membe of KLOV, Coinopspace, and BYOAC for sometime, and we sell on EBAY and Amazon. I will probably edit the intro down in the future, but I wanted just let people know who "we" are and who I am. Thank you for all the support and orders we already have received and now...it's time for the good stuff!

Mortal Kombat 9 Stick mod products!!!!! If you want new controls with the same forms to just upgrade your stick try some of these IL products and microswitch upgrades.

Translucent Concave IL buttons - A great upgrade to your stick, especially with...

IL-lumination LED pads - Available in RGB or single color
[media=youtube]P7zdGGsF2oI[/media]

IL Eurosticks provide "Happ Competition" Style with an upgrade in quality

And, for amazing light touch, upgrade any Happ or IL button to our 20 gram micros (Please note that these are 20 gram max spec and really are closer to 15 grams of actuation force)

We also carry JLF's, JLW's, LS-32, LS-32-01, LS-40, PS-14-KN pushbuttons, re-released PS-14-K Skeleton buttons, Paradise LED sticks, custom ball tops and a variety of hollow shafts(we also have 10 new custom hollow shafts on order, need a long JLF shaft or want to put a ball top on a Eurostick joystick?)

Finally... we have two new ball tops in, Pearls and Emerald Green that will be available shortly and were built to match the Rollie Buttons.

And the answer is "Yes, the pearl will light up."

Screw terminal blocks

oOn3LastStaNDo — Sat, 18 May 2013 23:28:04 +0000

I recently purchased a piiwee board from toodles and would like to put some 2 position screw terminals on it. I bought some 5mm spaced ones from RadioShack but the pins are a little bit to far apart to fit into the board. I measured the distance from the center of one hole to another and it was basically 1/8 in. Which is roughly 3.175mm but i can't seem to find any screw terminals that are that size. What size/spacing do I need to purchase?

HBFS-30 All New Arcade Button~Update: 12/11/2012

Milkshark — Wed, 18 Jul 2012 01:49:15 +0000

Hi! Game geeks! I am Pei, a FTG Gamer. I would be honored to introduce you the ALL NEW BUTTON of Arcade Stick----"HBFS-30".

I play FTG about 20 years.
So recently I play SSF4AE.
In fact, I prefer non-mainstream fighting game. (^_^)
Although my fighting skills are not the best,but I have been very interested in the custom Arcade Stick.

The reason for the development of "HBFS-30".
Because I played Street Fighter one night last year, and play too excited.
One thing people would be aware , beat the button(SANWA OBFS-30) in the excitement, the sound is very loud.
The noise by beat the button, completely disturb the sleep quality of the finance minister of my home.
Immediately condemned by my wife !
After that, I know if I do not solve this problem, one day my Arcade Stick will be blocked.
Therefore, I started looking for ways to get the button to be quiet.

After several experiments; Finally, I get the two methods.

1.Replace the micro switch:
I found Cherry MX micro-switch(redstem) is more sensitive than the the SANWA micro-switch, only 45g operations force. And longer life. In the specification, like the high-end the SANWA RG button.
With Cherry MX has many different characteristics of the micro switch, like the keyboard replaced in accordance with customary.

2.Add the cushion:
I redesigned the internal structure of the button, eliminating the impact of beat button parts, to avoid the noise.
and HBFS-30 with a high specification sound-absorbing pad, further reducing the noise generated.

[media=youtube]D2VddzbzSvo[/media]

Please refer some posts of my research process.( in Chinese ^_^)
Cherry MX in OBSF-30, beyond the RG?
Silencer button R & D experience
CherryMX button Part II ---- test for the prototype Beta V1.0

If HBFS-30 makes you feel excited, I sincerely invite you to finance HBFS-30 production plan.
The HBFS-30 has developed and made using in, which shows its well function and stable performance.
Now, we are raising amount of funding for HBFS-30's production plan on Indiegogo.

To thank you for your full support and funding, we will provide you the highest priority and the most favorable commodity pre-order in accordance with the amount of your funding. When the funding plan is completed you will be the first to get our first batch of production HBFS-30.

HBFS-30 THE ALL NEW ARCADE BUTTON WITH CHERRY MX KEYSWITCH

Our goal is $ 8,000.

This project is "All or Nothing" - if we don't meet our Goal, we can't produce and send out the HBFS-30 (your contribution will be refunded). So, please get your friends involved!

Thank you for your funding!!

If you have any questions,ask your questions here.^_^

2012/08/07 Update
Hey Guys!
We got HBFS-30 actual test from Taiwan players.
and sound comparison with OBSF-30.
Check it !
[media=youtube]BYw8twGxjv8[/media]

2012/08/11 Update

Hi, guys.
We have an important update.
You must check it!

We canceled QUICK CONNECT WIRE.
And We try to do something better.

Therefore, we design a new Adapter socket for the Cherry MX a switch.
Through Adapter socket will be easier to install and to replace HBFS-30.
It is compatible with existing female terminal.
You do not have to change your wiring system.
Replace HBFS-30 just like replace a new OBSF-30.

If you have to participate HBFS-30 fund-raising, or you are planning to join.
We will not charge you any extra fees.

But Adapter socket has really raised our production costs.
So we will raise the MSRP of HBFS-30, after the fund-raising.

Now join the funded Campaign is most favorable.
Please share it to your friends!

Finally,
Because an Adapter socket is equal to 2 Quick Connect Wires.
Therefore, we adjusted the contents of Perks.

The Novice:
15 Quick Connect Wires > 8 Adapter sockets

The Professional:
20 Quick Connect Wires > 10 Adapter sockets

The Master:
30 Quick Connect Wires > 15 Adapter sockets

The Monster:
120 Quick Connect Wires > 60 Adapter sockets

You Akuma !!:
250 Quick Connect Wires > 125 Adapter sockets

Thanks for your attention!
I hop you will like it !! ^_^
If you want to change anything, please send me a message.

The Beginners guide to planning a Mod like a Pro

Darksakul — Thu, 10 Feb 2011 20:08:03 +0000

The Beginners guide to planning a Mod like a Pro

I decide to make a quick guide to help potential modders build their projects.
Veterans feel free to add any info or correct my own. Please note I will go back and edit the content of this guide as time goes by.

To you beginners, before starting ANY project their are 3 things you need to consider.

*Your Goal to Accomplish
*Your Budget
* Your Skill Level

Skills:

Find out what you need to know. shoryuken.com forums has a wealth of guides, FAQ and tutorials, use them. Use the Search function here, and find the guide you need and read though all of it. Read though all of slagcoin a few times (its recommended reading here on the tech talk board). Search the web for any additional info, including how other people did their builds. And if you still lacking information do not be afraid to ask.

Reference links

There are many others, but I think I hit up the main topics for "how-to". (Under Revision)

After this point you might want to practice what you learn till you feel confidant enough to go ahead with your project. Example for soldering find a scrap preff board or old PCB to practice on.

Goal(s):

What is your goal, usually with SRK members its to build/ mod a arcade controller or related item. If your goal is to just have a arcade stick you can accomplish that with buying a commercial stick. But if you have any plans of customization, repair or to teach your self/ challenge/ fun of doing so you first need to set some goals and what you want out of your stick.

Step 1:Identify your final goal. Lets say making a 6-8 button arcade stick.

Step 2: plan out how your going to make this stick and what parts, materials and skills this will require and how you acquire these things. Make a list of what you need.

Example list ..
Joystick
*6 to 13 buttons depending on your design remember to include buttons for Start. select, home and if required a synch button (for wireless Xbox 360 builds)
*case and any case materials
*required disconnects, wiring harnesses, header connectors, pin connectors, barrier strips and the like.
*Wire (buy at least 1 foot more than what you will need)
*Your Printed Circuit boards
*system cable(s) and any connectors and passthoughs you need for the disconnects
**Your written/ drawn plans on what your doing (including a pattern for your button stick layout)
*Solder
*Electrical tape
Any tools you need that you do not already have.

If you are not Modding a existing stick , but building one from scratch make sure you have a lay out planed and drawn out. You later want to print an extra at full size as a template to where to drill/ cut for the case. I assume if your going with a pre-made case such as Art Hong's tek case or Foe Hammer case the layout is already provided.

Break your long tern goal into smaller short tern goals you can accomplish.
Example
1. get all materials and parts.
2. build case
3. Paint case
4. solder Xbox 360 pad to wires.
5. wire xbox 360 pad to 2nd PCB board (like a cthulhu, chimp , Dual Strike or what have you)
ect ect...

Budget:

Find out how much this will all cost (plus any shipping and tax) take that value and add 10% to the total cost, this will be your budget. Taking in consideration how much money you got already to spend. You be usually looking at $75 to $200 for your budget.

Tip 1: only buy the tools you need, when you need them, Don't buy RJ 45 crimmpers if you have no plans of using RJ45 connectors. Do not get a power saw and router if your not going to use them.

Tip 2: Do not order additional extra parts. You do not need 4 JFLs 3 PCBs and 56 push buttons. Order just what you need. What you can go extra on is consumable materials, wire, solder, crimp connectors, things that can be consumes easily especially if you make mistakes.

If you lack the money, you might have to buy a few pieces at a time, once a week or 2 till you have what you need. If this is still too much for you to afford, go back to your plans and see where you can scale back, this might mean skipping out on Kino's printed insert art and printing the image at home or going with a stock gate and springs for a joystick or removing extras like LED lighting.

Beginner Tips:

Take Notes. Like the Pros, always take notes. Have a piece of paper and a pencil or pen handy at all times.

Never ever trust someone else's identification for wire color in system cables. On various extension cords and system cords from various manufacturers, never trust the wire colors to identify pins on the cable connector. The colors of the wires change from product to product and manufacture to manufacture. Use a multi-meter or other continuity tester to test out each wire for its correct pin number. As you test, write down your findings. I once had a USB cable that did not use "standard colors", the colors were red for VCC (+5 V), brown for data -, yellow for data + and blue for ground.

If possible use multiple colors of wire. This is to color code your wires for your work.
if multiple color wire isn't possible use bits of different color shirk wrap, tape or some other indicator.

Alternatively use small labels on your parts/ wires. If you do not have any parts that are see-though go ahead and write on the inside of your case or use post-it notes to label what goes where.

Always make you Projects where you can dissemble your work if you need to go back a step or repair. This means using screws (or other fasteners such as latches) instead of gluing a case shut. Use quick disconnects, barrier strips, pin connectors headers and the such on your wiring so you can undo your work with out unsoldering or cutting anything. Leave the the LETS SOLDER EVERYTHING mentality for the few elites who "know" they can get away with this. Terminal strips and disconnects are our friends.

If you have to hack a pad, cable or connector, always go 1 wire at a time.
1. so that you keep track of what wire/ component your on.
2. if you got to back track, you only have to undo 1 wire instead of possible dozens
If you modding a cable or ribbon cable, cut, and mod only 1 wire at a time and test to see if the cable still works. Sometimes the different properties in a wire can effect how the cable works.
3. Do not leave the soldering iron for too long on a button pad or a trace of your controller PCB. Too much heat can lift pads, solder points and traces right off the board.

Always test your game pads you going to hack before you disassemble. Nothing is worst than having a broken pad PCB and not knowing till too late. Do the same for PCB kits such as the PS360, Cthulhu and other devices to see if they work.

Before cutting at or soldering to a Controller PCB, test for common ground if you are going for a common ground project. I already have 2 extra PCBs I can't use because this over sight.

If you have a digital camera, take pictures. This is not just for later to show off, but also to document what you are doing and how pieces fit together.

And remember, take you time. if you get too frustrated, take a break and come back when once your head cools off.

Tech Talk - shoryuken

PSA: Only Xbox One controllers, accessories will work with Xbox One

Hori and mad cats soul calibur 5 fightsticks. Which is better?

** Focusattack.com fighting game store **

Screen tearing Street fighter x Tekken 2013 pc version

Quick question: Datel Arcade Pro, 2/X/A Button not working!

Mad Catz ECTV Sale! $80 FightSticks + Tons of Savings!

Is there anyone making plexy or wooden cases for IL parts?

The Official Qanba Fightstick Thread (Page 60,"Defender" QanBa Fighting Stick backpack released now)

Building my first custom Arcade Stick, Hoping to get some advice

Streaming and Recording Guide/Research

First time psx padhack! Quick question

PS3 wireless arcade stick LED mod, help required

The Razer Arcade Stick Thread!

JLF into Neo Geo MVS cabinet

Building my first arcade controller - some questions

Build my cabinet

SANWA JLF-TRG-8YTH.SK vs Paradise Arcade silent omron kit (actuator/diagonal question)

The NEW Official Arcade Stick Art Thread NO IMAGE QUOTING!

Recent Purchases and Good Finds

Project: LLC Metal Replacement Panels Round 9 Stainless Steel

Japanese Buttons with Cherry Switches

Hori Real Arcade Pro AX S+G

Art's Hobbies Big Update! 1/32" Acrylic, V.S., Pro, Qanba, HRAP V3/VX, Custom Art Dustwashers.

Official FA Sparky PWM RGB LED Controller Thread

Hit Box - We so S Tier1!!

COM 2 JVS I/O (NAOMI) EMULATION PROJECT

Joystick (JLF) tension

Modding/Converters for a PS3/PC Hitbox

How do stream/tournament setups record while using VGA?

Lack of Seimitsu products?

Street Fighter X Tekken Arcade Fightstick V.S.

Updated 360 controller mac driver, Hori EX2, Mad Catz SFIV Sticks

** Akihabarashop.jp is now OPEN **

Help Needed! TE Stick on Mac OS X

Modding SSF4AE for PC (NO DLC UNLOCKS!)

Fixing the street fighter 4 standard edition fightstick

UD-CPS2: Fully Consolized Capcom Play System 2

Need Help - Lag Spikes

General Troubleshooting & Repair Guide

Kasucodes 2013 build thread

Painting the Fightstick (With Krylon or Vinyl Dye)

Injustice: Gods Among Us Battle Edition Arcade Stick

Paradise Arcade Shop, LED Joysticks, Buttons, Mods and more

Screw terminal blocks

HBFS-30 All New Arcade Button~Update: 12/11/2012

The Beginners guide to planning a Mod like a Pro

Focusattack.com fighting game store

Akihabarashop.jp is now OPEN