RJ-45 Multi Console Cthulhu Arcade Stick Tutorial Ver.2

rtdzignrtdzign Joined: Posts: 5,176
RJ45_Title_TutorialPicture.jpg
Edit:Also Dreamcast and 3DO

Intro
This post is a rewrite of Acceptable Risk?s RJ-45 Tutorial. This was posted to include new info such as recent console support added because the pinouts are spread out in the Cthulhu thread. Also I instead uses a Pass through over a keystone punch down type jack.

The MC Cthulhu is a purpose built PCB for hooking up with arcade joystick components. To work with different consoles, you only need to solder wires from a controller extension cable to the appropriate spots. If you look at the top op the pcb there are 3 rows of solder points with columns labled "GABCDEFV". Each extension cable wire must be soldered on to the appropriate column. When plugged in, the MC Cthulhu PCB can autodectect what system it is plugged into and then make your joystick work for that supported system. Be sure to download the latest firmware to ensure that all of the console cables you make will be compatible.

Originally the MC Cthulhu was able to support 5 consoles using 3 cables, therefore only 3 rows, but now it has grown to include many systems. Because there are 8 columns for system cables a Ethernet jack was a natural fit. The connecter used is typically an RJ-45. If you want to do a dual mod with Xbox 360 pad then you should check out this tutorial.
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/rj-45-mc-cthulhu-imp-xbox-360-dual-mod-tutorial-diagram.94875/
pcb-mc-cthulhu-multi-console.jpg

Kitty info Update: If you dual modded your stick with a Kitty board, they come preinstalled with a RJ-45 jack. If you connect that to a RJ-45 pass through, then you can use the same cable pinouts for making your own custom cable.
Begin Tutorial
Supplies List:
MC Cthulhu
Arcade stick case and buttons.
Soldering Iron and Soldering supplies
Digital Multimeter (Recommended feature: beeping continuity tester)
Wire stripper/cutter
Neutrik or SwitchCraft RJ-45 Jack.
Cat 5 or Cat 6 ethernet cable. For pass through you need a cable with a connector at the end.
Cat 5/6 Crimper and wire cutter/stripper.
Cat 5/6 8P8C crimp on Connectors.
Extension cables for systems you want to use
24mm drill bit (forstner or Holesaw) for mounting hole and drill.
(optional)
Ethernet boots
Neutrik ruggedized boots for use with Neutrik Jack.
Hammer
RJ-45_Tools_Supplies.jpg

Part 1: Mounting the RJ-45.
I think it was Robokrikit that first linked the community to these. These are Neutrik RJ-45 panel mount jacks, available at lizardlick.com.
ne8fdp_thumb.jpg
If you have a Plastic arcade stick Like a TE or SE or Hori
You will need to find a suitable place to drill a 24mm hole. 15/16 inches is equivalent to 24mm. Make sure before you drill a hole that you have enough space inside for the internal parts and can plug in the cable to it without obstruction.
Placing-Neutrik-Hole.jpg

Pictured is a Hole Saw and a Forstner bit. A hole Saw is great for plastic and metal, and will work for wood, you will have to clear out the material out of the bit with a screwdriver. Forstners are great for wood an plastic, but do not attempt to cut metal with a forstner bit.
So if you drill a 24mm hole you can then use the mounting plate to drill the 2 mounting holes.
DrillBits.jpg

For a wood case it is recommended that you use a switchcraft RJ-45. I think it was Voltech that first used these.
SwitchCraftRJ-45.jpg

If you must mount the Neutrik in a wood case look to a post below.

Drill free option Update:

Recently I modded a VLX but this can also be used with a TE or any stick with a cord notch. I didn't want to drill into my VLX case so Instead I used an Ethernet coupler and hid that away in the cord compartment. I tied a knot in my ethernet cord so that the cord would not be pulled out of the notch used for the default usb cord. For a TE, you would cut off one end of the ethernet cable and then feed it through the hole previously used by the USB cable. After it is through the hole tie a knot in it. With the cut end on the inside you can then solder to the G-V row.
th_1b827ab6.jpg th_2cf280a1.jpg
Part 2: Soldering on the ethernet cable to the MC Cthulhu
To start you would cut off maybe a foot off a cat5 or cat6 ethernet cable. The length should be long enough to reach where the RJ-45 jack is on your arcade stick. Strip off maybe a inch or two off the outer insulation and untwist the cables.
CutStripCat5.jpg

You want to use Ethernet Tybe B layout as most networking cables come in that wiring order. You need to take the 8 wires and strip off 5 mm off the ends and solder them to row 1 using the following diagram. If the are stranded like pictured above then you want to twist and tin each cable end with some solder so it goes in easier. Each of those colored wires corresponds to a letter on the GABCDEFV row.

WiringEthernetColorsTo_GV_Row.jpg

It also helps if you solder on to an actual MC board instead of a picture of the board. (note pictured on the paper is a ps3 cthulhu, which is identical in appearance except for 4 diodes to the right of the G-V rows)
Cat5eSolderedonBoard.jpg

Now you just plug it into the RJ-45 pass through port.
PlugIt_intoPort.jpg

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Comments

  • rtdzignrtdzign Joined: Posts: 5,176
    MakingSystemCables.jpg
    This sign is for people coming from the RJ-45 MC Cthulhu + Imp + Xbox 360 dual modding tutorial.
    http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/rj-45-mc-cthulhu-imp-xbox-360-dual-mod-tutorial-diagram.94875/

    Part 3: Making a USB/Xbox 1 Cable
    The First cable we will make is a USB cable. This is for use with PS3 and PC (and Xbox 360 if coming from above tutorial). USB cables (*almost*) always have a black, white green and red cable. Also note that the original xbox is also a USB cable with a proprietary connector and follows the same color scheme. Also note there is an additional yellow or brown cable for xbox but it is unneeded for the MC cthulhu. You can clip off and ignore that cable.
    First I cut off one end of the USB cable and strip off about ? inch of the outer insulation off. I actually really like using this small wire stripper with a adjustable screw for stripping off outer insulation. It makes the job easier, but is optional.
    WireStripperBlueMini.jpg USB_stripped.jpg

    I then slip on an Ethernet boot.
    SlipOnaBoot.jpg

    Looking at the Ethernet plug this is the corresponding pinout to the MC Cthulhu.
    8P8CEthernetPlug.jpg

    USB cables follow a standard for wire coloring. The ground is always Black, D- is White, D+ is Green and Voltage is Red,For USB you should insert the wire into the Ethernet plug like so. According to this pinout diagram. Original Xbox is done the same way it is a USB with a funny end. On Xbox there is a Yellow cable that is not needed and can be clipped.
    Color  Purpose    RJ45 Pin
    Black  Ground      1
                        2
                        3
                        4
    White  Data -      5
    Green  Data +      6
                        7
    Red    VCC        8
    
    I then insert it into the Ethernet plug like so. Make sure the release tab is facing away from you.
    USB_Plug.jpg

    CrimpItDown.jpg

    Once you have done that you can crimp down the jack and test out your wiring. Test it out, and if it works so far so good. If it doesn?t something is wrong.
    ----
    Part 4: Making a PS2 Cable
    I will go into detail about how to figure out the pins on a PS2 cable and using this methodology you can apply this to any system cable. For the PS2 cord we will need to take an extension cord and cut off the female end and strip about half an inch of the large insulation and expose maybe 2 mm of the small wires. Looking at the inside of the controller connector we have the following pins.
    PS2_pinout.jpg

    Using your mutimeter and your third hand, you need to do a continuity test on each pin to figure out what color wire the pin corresponds to. I usually jot this down. I?ve done maybe 8 different brands of PS2 extension cables and all 8 I think where colored differently so it is best to just do this every time. In other words Colors between different brands of PS2 extension cords are NEVER the same, even among the same brands at different times in a few cases.Don't ever rely on color as to what purpose or pin number the ps2 wires are, only use color as a way to label what is what after you identified what pin it goes to.
    Multimeter.jpg
    Psx_pinoutPostIT-1.jpgPsx_pinoutPostIT.jpg

    Sometimes instead of using the multimeter, I do it the cave man way. I go outside on some concrete and smash open the cut off female end with a hammer and just line it up to the male end and look at the wire colors that way.
    CavemanWay.jpg

    Now once I get the pin colors right I refer to the following code and arrange another post it note with how I will insert what color order the wires in the crimp on connector.
    PSX Pin    Purpose    RJ45 Pin    Cthulhu Column
    4          Ground      1          G
    7          CLK          2          A
    2          CMD          3          B
    1          DATA        4          C
    6          ATT          5          D
                            6          E
    9          ACK          7          F
    5          VCC          8          V
    

    PSX_NotingWireColorOrder.jpg

    Now that I have that written down I slip on a blue boot. I like using Blue for PS2
    BlueBoot.jpg

    And now I slip on the Ethernet connector using the Color wire pinout I just made. I like to use a circle drawing compass or paper clip to help nudge the wires around in there. This is a bitch to do so if this is your first time expect to be frustrated. I like to pinch the wires together in the correct order in my thumb and cut them all to even length. I try to get them to stay like that as I insert them in.

    InsertingPSX01-1.jpg

    Once In I make sure that all the wires are seated in deep enough. Check to make sure that the release clip is facing the right way and that the colors of wire are going into the right pins. Now double check.
    InsertingPSX02-1.jpgInsertingPSX03.jpg

    Now triple check. Once you are sure you got the wires in there right Crimp it down.

    CrimpItDown.jpg
    Once you have figured out the method used with a Playstation cable you can apply the same method to other system cables.


    Part 5: Pinouts for more cables

    Xbox
    Picture taken from Toodles instructable (xbox- is same as USB, but a modified connector. 1 extra wire is not used)
    Get-to-know-your-Xbox1-cable.jpg
    xbox Pin - MC Cthulhu Column- Color
    1 -          V -        Red
    2 -          D -        White
    3 -          E -        Green
    4 -          G -        Black
    

    Gamecube:
    GameCubeCableEnd.jpg
    
    Gamecube pin    Purpose    RJ45 Pin
    3              Ground      1
                                2
                                3
                                4
                                5
                                6
    2              Data        7
    1              VCC          8
    
    Mit, post: wrote:
    I just finished modding an SE Wii stick with an MC Cthulhu and made a USB and a Gamecube cable.

    However, instead of paying for shipping on a gamecube extension cable online or buying a cheap controller or scavenging for an extension cable at a GameStop (they aren't actually the easiest things to find), I decided to use an old Gameboy Advance -> Gamecube cable, the ones used to play Final Fantasy Crystal Chronicles and Four Swords Adventure. They are only 99 cents at GameStop, and I have found are much easier to find.

    Anyways, these cables do not have 6 or 7 pins or whatever like full extension cables or cables for corded controllers. They lack pins for stuff like rumble motors (similar to the Wavebird receivers) and for the three pins they do have, they do not match those of a regular 6 pin controller.

    Anyways, after making an ethernet plug with three regular wires hanging out of the ground, data, and vcc slots, and mixing and matching the three cords I had to work with between those three wires, I finally figured out what wires were which, and what pins where what.

    tl;dr : Extension cables for gamecube are hard to find at GameStop. Look for a Gameboy Advance to Gamecube cable instead. They're 99 cents. Here is the pinout:

    r38pM.jpg

    If you get the official Nintendo one, here's the wire colors (same as the ones I used in the pinout image):

    nrtKY.jpg
    (yes it looks like I missed the yellow wire, but it does in fact hit the far left lane at the top of the plug)

    NES
    NesCableEnd.jpg
    Purpose -Pin # - Cthulhu Column
    GND -1 - G
    CLK -2 - A
    LATCH -3 - F
    DATA -4 - C
    VCC -7 ? V
    

    SNES
    SnesCableEnd.jpg
    SNES Pin - MC Cthulhu Column
    1 - G
    4 - C
    5 - F
    6 - A
    7 - V
    

    TurboGrafx-16/PC-Engine
    The American TurboGrafx-16 uses has a female Din 8 port on the system while the Turbo Duo and all the Japanese systems use a Mini Din 8. I recommend that you buy a number of 6 ft monoprice Mini Din 8 cables. For an TG-16 you can buy a male Din 8 connector and solder that to an ethernet cable.
    For only $1.56 each when QTY 50+ purchased - MDIN8, M/F, 1:1 - 6ft | Apple Cables
    PCE_CableEnd.jpgSD-80.jpg
    DIN Pin # - Cthulhu Column - Monoprice color
    1 - V - Brown
    2 - A - Red
    3 - B - Orange
    4 - C - Yellow
    5 - F - Green
    6 - E - Blue
    7 - D - Purple
    8 - G - Black
    
    Saturn

    With Saturn support goodness. Using the pin numbers from gamesx: Sega Saturn Controller Data

    SaturnCableEnd.jpg
    Pin - Cthulhu Column
    1 - V
    2 - B
    3 - A
    4 - D
    5 - E
    7 - F
    8 - C
    9 - G
    
    (Yes, use pin #1 for power, and don't connect pin 6 to anything)

    3DO
    (I don't have a 3DO and am assuming the D-sub follows normal pinout convention Picture is from a 3rd party genesis extension cable.)
    3do will currently only work as the only controller, plugged directly into the system; trying to daisy chain off of it or use it through a daisy chain isn't going to work.
    3DOcableEnd.jpg
    Dsub Pin - Cthulhu column
    1 - G
    2 - V
    6 - F
    7 - A
    9 - C
    

    Dreamcast: (no VMU support. Also will only work with "arcade stick" compatible games)
    Dreamcast_RJ45_MCC.jpg
    Pinout:
    DC Pin - Cthulhu column - Agetec Colors
    1      - F              - Red
    2      - V              - Blue
    3      - G              - Black
    4      - B              - Green
    5      ? C              - White
    
    RJ45 Pin - MCC Column - DC Pin - Agetec
    1      - G      - 3      - Black
    2      - A
    3      - B      - 4      - Green
    4      - C      - 5      - White
    5      - D
    6      - E
    7      - F      - 1      - Red
    8      - V      - 2      - Blue
    
  • rtdzignrtdzign Joined: Posts: 5,176

    Extra Related Info

    Wood mounting Neutrik RJ-45
    Mounting Neutrik into wood case
    So maybe you already bought a Rj-45 Neutrik or have a Neutrik ruggedized connector, but realized it won?t work for a wooden stick, I used a JLF plate to mount my Neutrik.
    The problem with the Cat 5e RJ-45 Neutrik is that it is designed to only screw in through a thin material no more than 3mm thick. You can see the mounting plate and screws and how they fasten to the black plastic piece.
    e34c71d2.jpg

    One nice way to mount the stick is to hack a JLF plate. (Also you may use some Lexan or acrylic instead as someone in this forum posted)
    By default he mounting plate fits in quite nice, but the black plastic part needs a little room. While at this step you want to put the mounting plate and draw in the corner mounting holes and drill into the JLF plate. This will be harder to do once you widen the hole.
    07af694b.jpg 0d4d7a52.jpg 64f89a38.jpg

    Next you need to dremel the JLF plates joystick hole to about 1mm wider. Then when you can put in the back black part in you can screw it together.
    1256202229.jpg
    Have yet to do this but next I will put the plate in a vise and hack away the extra metal and use the 2 holes close to the adaptor to mount with wood screws.

    Now all I have to do is cut a rectangle notch on the back of my stick, just like they do with controller cords then round out the counter sink recess. I might try to counter sink in from the inside as well with a dremel and chisel.
    1256373171.jpg
    Cutting up the mounting plate. If you have a big ass case you don't need to do this.
    DSC03130.jpg

    DSC03131.jpg

    So for prepping I made measurements for the notch and mounting plate recess.
    DSC03125.jpg

    Drills holes for radius of Neutrik plate.
    DSC03126.jpg

    Cut. I'm using a coping saw. Make sure you cut the notch hole slightly smaller. You can take away but cannot put back.
    DSC03127.jpg

    Chisel
    DSC03128.jpg

    Carve shape and refine with various dremel attachments and then Flush mount. I counter sunk the mounting plate from the inside. Carefully drill mounting holes for JLF mounting plate into wood. You want to avoid blow out of the wood so make sure that the drill holes are proper size and angled away from adaptor.
    DSC03135.jpg

    DSC03136.jpg

    Mounted. If you use Neutrik Ruggedized connectors you might want to install upside down, but in my case I used standard Cat 5e boots. It is easier to push in from bottom.
    DSC03134.jpg

    DryFit
    1256459167.jpg

    Finished Stick
    th_StickAll_withPaduakBalltop.jpg th_DSC03200.jpg th_DSC03202.jpg
    ----
    Keystone RJ-45 Jacks.
    There are two types of RJ-45 jacks that you can use, a keystone jack with punch down terminals or a pass through jack. I reccomend the pass through jacks because they are easier and allow the cord to be detachable.
    Keystone jacks:
    Typical Keystone jacks require that you cut both ends of the ethernet cord and use a punchdown tool to get them into the terminals. I don't reccomend these but they will work. Ironically all of my sticks use punchdown versions like the one used in the wood mounting because I bought a bunch of them before I saw the benefits of the pass through. If I did buy new ones though I would get the pass through for easy disconnection if needed.

    Learning about your connectors

    keystone.JPG

    This is an RJ45 keystone jack. It's a fairly standard style for them. It has two rows of punchdown slots on the back with little blades that you press your wire into to make the connections. Most of them will have the pin numbers labeled on the slots. It's generally not a bad idea to double check with a multimeter to make sure the labels are correct. There are two common patterns for two-by-four row punchdowns and I've seen cheap jacks come mislabeled. It's usually not a problem, though.

    punchdown.JPG

    These punchdowns cooperate best with solid-core wire. I used some really stiff Category 6 cable, but you can use individual solid-core wires of around 24-26 AWG if you don't have the cable. You can find toolless jacks that have some kind of device built in to punch the wire down, or your can use a punch down tool. The tooled jacks will often come with a cheap one like this.

    PDTool.JPG

    To connect your cable to the jack, you strip back the outer jacket, line the wire up in the slot, and punch it down. You don't need to strip the inner jacket. The bladed slot will cut right through it. When you're done clip off the overhanging wires.

    punch.JPG

    Now you need to wire your jack to your Cthulhu. For ease of use when assembling the cables, we're going to connect the pins of the jack to the corresponding columns of the Cthulhu like this:
    Pin 1 Pin 2 Pin 3 Pin 4 Pin 5 Pin 6 Pin 7 Pin 8
    G A B C D E F V
    
    All of the rows are the same with the following exception: If using the recommended assembly instructions, rows 1 and 2 have a better diode than rows 3 or 4. For the most part, it doesn't make a difference. But in order to connect it to a Playstation you need to use row 1 or 2, so choose one of those. Solder the appropriate wires to the appropriate points on the Cthulhu and you'll be done with the internal connections.

    Extra Options
    Neutrik Ruggedized Boot.
    Jumping from rooftop to rooftop making a parkour video while holding an arcade stick cable? Maybe you want to use your cable as a possible flail type weapon? Are you a ninja that likes to use your arcade stick as a grappling hook? These boots are much fancier and more undestructable compared to the plastic ones I use and are really nice. I may buy a bunch one day for one of my sticks. These require the Neutrik RJ-45 port.
    http://www.markertek.com/Cables-Connectors-Adapters/Data-Connectors-Adapters/RJ45-CAT5-and-CAT6-Connectors/Neutrik-USA-Inc/NE8MC.xhtml
    NE8MC.JPG
    ScrewTerminals for GABCDEFV Row.
    If you don't want to solder wires directly to the MC Cthulhu PCB you can solder on an optional screw terminal.
    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=277-1279-ND
    1725711.jpg
    You can also use D-SUB connector. A DB-9 Should do the trick
    1-DB09MSCW.jpg

    1-DB09MSCW.jpg

    You would solder system cables to the connector and use a hood to cover it.
    HOOD-DB9-Plastic-L-Com.jpg
    DIN connectors
    It is also possible to use a Din 8 or mini Din 8 connectors as an alternative to RJ-45.
    Din or mini Din connectors.

    Full din 8:
    Female Panel mount to put on stick
    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CP-1280-ND
    SD-80SN.jpg

    Male Connector
    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CP-1080-ND
    SD-80.jpg

    Female Connector
    [ur]http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CP-1180-ND[/url]
    SD-80J.jpg

    Mini Din 8
    Hard to solder to, also picures on digikey used a generic mini din 3 pic but should have 8 pins

    Panel mount
    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CP-2580-ND
    MD-30,40,50,60,70,80,90SN.jpg

    Male Connector
    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CP-2080-ND
    MD-30,40,50,60,70,80,90.jpg

    Female Connector
    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CP-2180-ND
    MD-30,40,50,60,70,80,90J.jpg
    Please, for all that is holy, if you're going to link to the min-DINs (which I use and enjoy myself. There's more work involved, but I can trust the connection more than I do with RJ-45) then please also link to the crimp pins to go with it:
    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=1442669&FV=fff40016,fffc0066
    T-0006.jpg
    It'll be rough enough with the crimp pins, and freaking wrist slitting impossible without.

    Hard lessons learned from the miniDINs:
    1. Once the outer sleeve is on all of the way, it ain't coming back off. So make damn sure you get the arrow aligned in the spot you want it before pushing it all of the way over the center assembly.
    2. Put the outermost sleeve on the cable and slide it to the end the very first thing! Don't be like me and remember it AFTER you get the crimp pins on and put them on the pin piece.
    3. Use a label maker to print out a small cheat sheet with the pin number and matching cthulhu column of your stick. Place label on bottom of stick. 2 months down the line, you'll be making a new cable and curse because you don't remember the pinout. Don't be that guy.
    Yeaa, listen to Toodles for sure. I learned those first two lessons the hard way the first time I used mini-DIN. I'll also add that you should be careful when pushing the crimp pins onto the mini-DIN pins. I snapped one pin off at some point and felt like a careless brute.

    Here's the cheat sheet I used (I think it's mini-DIN standard, for what that's worth), in case anyone wants to just use it:
    minidin.jpg
    Pin 1: G
    Pin 2: A
    Pin 3: B
    Pin 4: C
    Pin 5: D
    Pin 6: E
    Pin 7: F
    Pin 8: V

    Toodles, what kind of crimping tool did you use for the crimp pins? Searching Digi-Key's site for an appropriately sized crimping tool wasn't very helpful. I just used needle nose pliers--it worked pretty well, but I'd like to be able to get a tighter wrap on the wires.

    Other fancy Connectors that are alternatives to RJ-45
    Thanks rtdzign for compiling this all into one thread; this should be a handy resource. :smile:

    The CUI Inc MD-80 series has 8-pin mini DIN male/female plugs and jacks and whatnot.

    Search MD-90 for 9-pin, MD-60 for 6-pin, and so on. Search SD-80 for the full-size DIN versions.

    What's weird is that the in-line mini DIN plugs say they have optional "crimp pin adapters". I have no problem finding the crimp pins, but I haven't been able to find the adapters anywhere, so I've just been soldering to the tiny default receptacle piece and trying not to drink too much coffee.

    I was thinking about starting a "connectors" thread, but I don't see why we can't have it all here if it doesn't get too crowded. I've been messing with other Neutrik stuff. Their connectors are nice in that they aren't too crazy expensive, but are pretty and well-built. There are a lot of other "fancy" circular connectors and such out there but the prices can get kinda ridiculous since a lot of that stuff gets into medical/military/industrial use and the prices go way up.

    My current favorite is the miniCON series (assembled or modular). They fit up to 12 pins and can be completely disassembled for painting or whatever, and the pins can be soldered (or crimped) to each wire separately, then inserted into the connectors by hand. The connectors are pretty small; the receptacle fits in a 14mm hole.

    44jjy.png

    DPRJTt.jpg

    ltrhCt.jpg

    I have a few pics of this in my PSX -> MC Cthulhu converter post. It definitely works well in plastic or metal cases (e.g. TE), and would probably work alright in a wood case, though due to how small it is, some material might need to be routed out inside, since the jack is a screw-on type.

    The neutriCON series (assembled / modular) looks like it could work pretty well in wood cases. It maxes out at 8 pins. I haven't tried it yet.

    UONcZ.png

    PJh6Qt.jpg

    9Pl5gt.jpg

    Their CAT6 stuff has a different RJ-45 receptacle that could fit better into wood cases (24mm hole). The square backend that accepts the cable is removable for wiring, so if the case were thin enough it should work. Right now they are pretty expensive though (~$30?).

    2Ph4Xm.jpg

    Also if you want to dual mod a MC Cthulhu with a xbox 360 controller youc an check out my other tutorial on the RJ-45 MC Cthulhu +Xbox 360 + Imp tutorial.

    With that tutorial you can use the same method for making cables.
  • gahrlinggahrling Better safe than Hori.. Joined: Posts: 3,968
    Thanks for this update - it contains some significant new information that's all now available in a single guide. Great pic quality too.

    Regarding the various different Neutrik jacks, I personally prefer the IDC versions as you don't need to hack another RJ-45 plug to get it to work, and it also allows you to use the Neutrik jack as a terminal point for non-supported PCB's (like a DC pcb), or a stock stick that already comes wth a PSX pcb (if installing a Datel pcb instead of a Cthulhu).

    Something you might consider adding to your guide is a mention of the Neutrik NE8MC-1 (or similar) RJ45 boots. They perfectly complement a Neutrik RJ-45 jack and keeps the connection rock solid (as well as near indestructible).
  • Ikagi-chanIkagi-chan Loves his HRAP2SA! <3 Joined: Posts: 1,980
    GREAT tutorial rtdzign! I didn't actually know until now that you could use the rows on the Multi-Console Cthulu for the PlayStation 3 support! Very neat! I highly doubt this considering some cables need more than 6 pins on an RJ-45 plug, but is there any way that the RJ-45 plug can still be used to support a USB cable for sticks dual-modded with MC Cthulu boards and Xbox 360 PCBs?
  • ToodlesToodles da Fetus of Gawd! Joined: Posts: 10,778
    Damn, you've been busy rtdzign. Good shit. I'll get this thread and the MC+Imp wiring thread linked up in the first post of the Cthulhu thread.
  • SystemSystem Joined: Posts: 508,676 admin
    GREAT tutorial rtdzign! I didn't actually know until now that you could use the rows on the Multi-Console Cthulu for the PlayStation 3 support! Very neat! I highly doubt this considering some cables need more than 6 pins on an RJ-45 plug, but is there any way that the RJ-45 plug can still be used to support a USB cable for sticks dual-modded with MC Cthulu boards and Xbox 360 PCBs?

    Ehrm, you have 8 pins, actually. So dual mods are possible, as long as you don't need more than 8 wires total for both.
  • kasprfotokasprfoto part time player, part time modder Joined: Posts: 774
    oh man, this is JUST the tutorial i was waiting on!! rtdzign, thanks a bunch =)
  • DemoninjaDemoninja Joined: Posts: 760
    Damn rtdzign, you're on a roll with these nice ass tutorials.
  • TortaTorta A piece of Cake Joined: Posts: 707
    i have a question.. how do you "lock" the plastic boot on the rj45 cable? :( it always gets off for me
    VAMOS
    MCCthulhu >> all

    KOFXIII: Ash/King/Vice
  • brighennebrighenne Joined: Posts: 799
    GREAT tutorial rtdzign! I didn't actually know until now that you could use the rows on the Multi-Console Cthulu for the PlayStation 3 support! Very neat! I highly doubt this considering some cables need more than 6 pins on an RJ-45 plug, but is there any way that the RJ-45 plug can still be used to support a USB cable for sticks dual-modded with MC Cthulu boards and Xbox 360 PCBs?

    Yes you can. If you have an mc cthulhu + imp setup, then a couple of the wires from the ethernet cable(d+/d-) run to the imp board instead.

  • GeorgeCGeorgeC Joined: Posts: 2,850
    i have a question.. how do you "lock" the plastic boot on the rj45 cable? :( it always gets off for me


    Use heat shrink tubing.

    Cut a small piece of heat shrink and put it on your cable first THEN slip on the boot.

    Of course, the boot is going to be behind the heat shrink tubing.

    Use a lighter or hair dryer to shrink the tubing AFTER you've crimped on the Ethernet adapter cover THEN slip the boot onto the heat shrink. The boot isn't going to slip off if you've done this right...
  • Ikagi-chanIkagi-chan Loves his HRAP2SA! <3 Joined: Posts: 1,980
    Yes you can. If you have an mc cthulhu + imp setup, then a couple of the wires from the ethernet cable(d+/d-) run to the imp board instead.

    I saw rtdzign's tutorial on that as well. He really is epic! :wow:

    But the thing is, I'm not sure if the MC Cthulu with all these new systems would allow for the USB data lines to pass through the RJ-45 jack without limiting potential console cable additions to the MC Cthulu by leaving it with only 6 pins. In fact, doesn't the Saturn support up abovee require all 8 pins to function? :wonder:
  • EVAWINGZEROEVAWINGZERO Slacktivismist Extraordinaire Joined: Posts: 2,229
    Thanks for this. I have been having trouble getting my Cables to work right. I have double checked my solders and everything looks good, double checked the Gamecube Wire I built, everything looked good, I think my issue may be my Keystone......

    I'm gonna go over this new guide and attempt it again tonight.....
    [TMNTTF - Leonardo]
    [Donkey Kong - Jumpman]
    [UMVC3 - A Button, B Button, C Button + S]
    [MK9 - Scorpion, Freddy Krueger]
  • lockonlockon nice desu Joined: Posts: 224
    Nice tutorial!! I've had my RJ-45 installed but been lazy to make cables. This is just what i needed.

    Good stuff rtdzign. :tup:
  • rtdzignrtdzign Joined: Posts: 5,176
    Thanks for this update - it contains some significant new information that's all now available in a single guide. Great pic quality too.

    Regarding the various different Neutrik jacks, I personally prefer the IDC versions as you don't need to hack another RJ-45 plug to get it to work, and it also allows you to use the Neutrik jack as a terminal point for non-supported PCB's (like a DC pcb), or a stock stick that already comes wth a PSX pcb (if installing a Datel pcb instead of a Cthulhu).

    Something you might consider adding to your guide is a mention of the Neutrik NE8MC-1 (or similar) RJ45 boots. They perfectly complement a Neutrik RJ-45 jack and keeps the connection rock solid (as well as near indestructible).
    if there is stuff you want me to add please post links. I was going to put in pictures of the ruggedized connectors and also if people could link me to the crimp on Mini Din 8 Connectors on Digikey ( I can never find what I'm looking for on that site) and the Solder on Full Din connectors. I'l like to include those as alternatives.
  • brighennebrighenne Joined: Posts: 799
    I saw rtdzign's tutorial on that as well. He really is epic! :wow:

    But the thing is, I'm not sure if the MC Cthulu with all these new systems would allow for the USB data lines to pass through the RJ-45 jack without limiting potential console cable additions to the MC Cthulu by leaving it with only 6 pins. In fact, doesn't the Saturn support up abovee require all 8 pins to function? :wonder:

    Yes, but it uses the same lines as the USB, so it still works fine going through the imp.

  • kubebotkubebot Large Member Joined: Posts: 1,269
    Wow great write up rtdzign thanks! Also wanna give thanks to Robokrikit for basically introducing many of us to the Neutrik idea.

    You can also use plexi as a backing for the Neutrik RJ-45.

    Plexi sample from I got from Tap Plastics
    plexi3.jpg

    Back of MAS with plexi
    IMG_0015.jpg
  • Ikagi-chanIkagi-chan Loves his HRAP2SA! <3 Joined: Posts: 1,980
    Yes, but it uses the same lines as the USB, so it still works fine going through the imp.

    Oh I didn't actually know that! Which columns of the MC Cthulu share the same data lines as the USB connector? :wow:

    This would seriously save me SO much hassle! :lol:
  • rtdzignrtdzign Joined: Posts: 5,176
    Oh I didn't actually know that! Which columns of the MC Cthulu share the same data lines as the USB connector? :wow:

    This would seriously save me SO much hassle! :lol:

    D is d-
    E is d+

    if you take a multimeter and continuity probe you will find a lot of the holes are the same thing with the exception of the voltage.
  • RoboKrikitRoboKrikit nuclear Joined: Posts: 1,943
    Thanks rtdzign for compiling this all into one thread; this should be a handy resource. :smile:
    if there is stuff you want me to add please post links. I was going to put in pictures of the ruggedized connectors and also if people could link me to the crimp on Mini Din 8 Connectors on Digikey ( I can never find what I'm looking for on that site) and the Solder on Full Din connectors. I'l like to include those as alternatives.

    The CUI Inc MD-80 series has 8-pin mini DIN male/female plugs and jacks and whatnot.

    Search MD-90 for 9-pin, MD-60 for 6-pin, and so on. Search SD-80 for the full-size DIN versions.

    What's weird is that the in-line mini DIN plugs say they have optional "crimp pin adapters". I have no problem finding the crimp pins, but I haven't been able to find the adapters anywhere, so I've just been soldering to the tiny default receptacle piece and trying not to drink too much coffee.


    I was thinking about starting a "connectors" thread, but I don't see why we can't have it all here if it doesn't get too crowded. I've been messing with other Neutrik stuff. Their connectors are nice in that they aren't too crazy expensive, but are pretty and well-built. There are a lot of other "fancy" circular connectors and such out there but the prices can get kinda ridiculous since a lot of that stuff gets into medical/military/industrial use and the prices go way up.

    My current favorite is the miniCON series (assembled or modular). They fit up to 12 pins and can be completely disassembled for painting or whatever, and the pins can be soldered (or crimped) to each wire separately, then inserted into the connectors by hand. The connectors are pretty small; the receptacle fits in a 14mm hole.

    44jjy.png

    DPRJTt.jpg

    ltrhCt.jpg

    I have a few pics of this in my PSX -> MC Cthulhu converter post. It definitely works well in plastic or metal cases (e.g. TE), and would probably work alright in a wood case, though due to how small it is, some material might need to be routed out inside, since the jack is a screw-on type.

    The neutriCON series (assembled / modular) looks like it could work pretty well in wood cases. It maxes out at 8 pins. I haven't tried it yet.

    UONcZ.png

    PJh6Qt.jpg

    9Pl5gt.jpg

    Their CAT6 stuff has a different RJ-45 receptacle that could fit better into wood cases (24mm hole). The square backend that accepts the cable is removable for wiring, so if the case were thin enough it should work. Right now they are pretty expensive though (~$30?).

    2Ph4Xm.jpg
  • bigsexyc420bigsexyc420 Keystone II Joined: Posts: 446
    Good stuff man, been waiting on this to finally come out.

    nominated.
    "Contra on the DS makes me want to punch myself in the balls"
    -Monte
  • cablescables Joined: Posts: 56
    Great guide! I like your workspace and 3D modeling skills.

    For anyone planning on going with mini-din, the crimp pins are currently back ordered at Digi-key. Their site says they'll be shipping ~May 2nd, though, so it's not too long of a wait. I recommend ordering more than you need when they do come back in--if you need to redo your connection for any reason, it's sometimes hard to reuse them. Plus, they're less than $5 for 100, so why not.
  • Ikagi-chanIkagi-chan Loves his HRAP2SA! <3 Joined: Posts: 1,980
    D is d-
    E is d+

    if you take a multimeter and continuity probe you will find a lot of the holes are the same thing with the exception of the voltage.

    Thanks for that rtdzign! I'll definitely be making use of this information. :bgrin:
  • pkrstdntpkrstdnt Joined: Posts: 802
    Wow, this is great! It was time someone updated this and put it all together in a nice little package. I would always get the wires on the gamecube cable backwards and have to redo it to make it work.
    DFW Fight Club
    ***UCC***
    uppercutcircuit.com
  • SystemSystem Joined: Posts: 508,676 admin
    Why are Switchcrafts recommended over Neutriks for wooden sticks? Does that include MDF?
  • gahrlinggahrling Better safe than Hori.. Joined: Posts: 3,968
    Why are Switchcrafts recommended over Neutriks for wooden sticks? Does that include MDF?

    Simpler to install - Neutrik Cat5e jacks are an awkward shape.
  • spenzaliispenzalii Joined: Posts: 2,016
    Nominated for an article. Good shit bro!
    And we build BALLER SHIT! (c) Matskat
  • akuma001akuma001 cut it Joined: Posts: 759 mod
    Why are Switchcrafts recommended over Neutriks for wooden sticks? Does that include MDF?


    the way a neutrik jack is mounted is like making a sandwich between the faceplate of the neutrik and actual jack with stick case in between. you would need a really thin and strong piece of wood for this to work in wood or you would have to mount it to another thin mounting plate like rtdezign did in his tutorial. you wouldn't be able to just use long screws either to hold the 2 pieces together because the release button on the neutrik wouldn't be able to press after mounting in a certain thickness.

    the switchcraft looks to have it's mounting plate directly attached to the jack so you could just screw it directly into the wood.

    anyways, just wanted to pop in and say nice tutorial. :tup:
  • GeorgeCGeorgeC Joined: Posts: 2,850
    Quick question --


    Can the MC Cthulu ROM be flashed to ver 1.6x on Apple Macintosh OS X or do I have to flash the PCB on a PC/Windows machine? (Aware of Bridge, yes, but I have a pre-Intel Mac right now...)

    Other than that, nice to see Saturn support is firming up on the MC Cthulu!

    I have three leftover Saturn connector cords from failed dual-mod projects that are going to be "fixed" for RJ-45 over the next week!
  • rtdzignrtdzign Joined: Posts: 5,176
    Quick question --


    Can the MC Cthulu ROM be flashed to ver 1.6x on Apple Macintosh OS X or do I have to flash the PCB on a PC/Windows machine? (Aware of Bridge, yes, but I have a pre-Intel Mac right now...)

    Other than that, nice to see Saturn support is firming up on the MC Cthulu!

    I have three leftover Saturn connector cords from failed dual-mod projects that are going to be "fixed" for RJ-45 over the next week!

    Better head over to the Cthulhu thread and ask that. I don't think so though with the flasher being a windows .net application.
  • GeorgeCGeorgeC Joined: Posts: 2,850
    Figured it'd be Windows... Lucky me inherited a PC from my dad, though!

    I can offer SOME good news, though.

    I got my Saturn cords RJ-45 adapted already. Took about 75-80 minutes of work for all three. It appears that the color labeling for the wiring is consistent for Sega, Hori, and Ascii brand connection cables. Verified this by my multimeter.

    Here's the color by wire going from left-to-right by Pin Position on the RJ-45 --
    White (1) Black (2) Green (3) Grey (4) Orange (5) Red (6) Yellow (7) Blue (8)

    Again, this is consistent among the 3 brands of Saturn connectors I have. More good news is that the stock connector lengths are plentiful. They range from 5-feet-plus to just under 10 feet!

    I just cut down the 9th wire (the Brown) so that it didn't interfere with the other wires. Brown should be Pin Position #6 on the Saturn's connector end -- the Pin Position we were told to skip.

    I still double-checked on each wiring bundle to be sure before I crimped on the adapters.
  • rtdzignrtdzign Joined: Posts: 5,176
    Wow, this is great! It was time someone updated this and put it all together in a nice little package. I would always get the wires on the gamecube cable backwards and have to redo it to make it work.

    Ha! I do that shit every time too. You think that because it was just 3 wires it would be more simple huh?

    Also added information about Din Connectors.
  • speedsterharryspeedsterharry Joined: Posts: 784
    Outstanding contribution, RTdzign ! I've been reading the R45 mod 2.0 plus this and everything is very well explained . Will be very handy shortly.

    EDIT: However, the diameter of my Neutrik connector (NE8FBV) was 22 mm rather than 24 - confirmed on Neutrik's web site.
  • The_ThirdThe_Third Poverty Gamer Joined: Posts: 1,009
    So the Switchcraft RJ-45 feedthrough would also work with plastic/metal/thin holes right?
  • PaskyPasky Ninja with pistol! Joined: Posts: 1,863
    It will work anywhere you can hold it in place with two screws or a small bolt and nut.
    <Pasky> so you can go extra fast by just holding it?
    <bookah> turbo handjob
    <baklakiller> sure if had a penis
    <baklakiller> im a beginner gief
  • The_ThirdThe_Third Poverty Gamer Joined: Posts: 1,009
    Also, any Cat5 cable will do right? No benefits using regular (leftover) Cat5 over Cat5e/6?
  • rtdzignrtdzign Joined: Posts: 5,176
    Also, any Cat5 cable will do right? No benefits using regular (leftover) Cat5 over Cat5e/6?
    I use leftover cat 5 cables. They work fine.
  • drunkninja42drunkninja42 My Little CvS Joined: Posts: 1,697
    Quick question: I made a cable for NES, but when I plugged it in, it made my screen go blank and my system lock up. From the looks of it, the cable was the same as SNES just with the wires for 2 and 7 switched around. Any idea what might be the issue or what wires I might have misdone?
  • rtdzignrtdzign Joined: Posts: 5,176
    Quick question: I made a cable for NES, but when I plugged it in, it made my screen go blank and my system lock up. From the looks of it, the cable was the same as SNES just with the wires for 2 and 7 switched around. Any idea what might be the issue or what wires I might have misdone?

    I suggest that you take a multimeter and triple check the pins to the RJ-45. Also I would boot the system up with the cord already in the system and then plug the ethernet jack end into the stick. NESes are prone to reset if you slightly move the system. Also double check this instructable by Toodles himself. I suggest that you just forget about the purposes of the wires and the similarities between Nes and Snes circuit design and treat them like totally different systems. Just strictly think of the pin numbers to the G-V rows.

    http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Install-an-NES-cable-onto-a-Multi-Console-C/
  • SystemSystem Joined: Posts: 508,676 admin
    Hello, I am having trouble getting my Xbox1 cable to work with my MC Cthulhu RJ45 mod.
    I have checked all the connections and they seem fine. I have also checked the MC Cthulhu board for voltage when connected to my Xbox1 and I get 4.53v.
    Is there any other test I can do or do you have any ideas as to what it could be please?
  • shrimpnoodlesshrimpnoodles duh Joined: Posts: 428
    did you update the firmware to 2.0? because the older firmware requires you to hold left (if I remember correctly) before plugging in the controller to activate xbox 1 mode.
  • SystemSystem Joined: Posts: 508,676 admin
    Yeah. I thought it might be that after searcing the forums for answers. Unfortunatly it hasn't worked.
  • ToodlesToodles da Fetus of Gawd! Joined: Posts: 10,778
    Sorry man, there's nothing special about the Xbox cable versus a regular USB cable except the funny end. If your stick will come up on a PC or PS3 properly, then it absolutely HAS to be a wiring problem in the Xbox1 cable.
  • speedsterharryspeedsterharry Joined: Posts: 784
    Since the switchcrafts cannot be found in Europe, to the best of my knowledge, I used my router to fix the Neutrik connector to my wooden box.

    DSCN5917.JPG
    The recess has been widened with a 45° router bit to ease access to the unlock button.
    I left about 5 mm of oak for the Neutrik to sit

    DSCN5920.JPG
    Damn, the connector is not exactly seated parallel to the sides :-/
  • SystemSystem Joined: Posts: 508,676 admin
    Sorry man, there's nothing special about the Xbox cable versus a regular USB cable except the funny end. If your stick will come up on a PC or PS3 properly, then it absolutely HAS to be a wiring problem in the Xbox1 cable.

    Cheers Toodles, I'll give it a go with another cable.
    Does it matter that I have the RJ45 cable hooked up to row 2 on the Cthulu for the Xbox1 cable and the USB output for PS3/PC?
  • ToodlesToodles da Fetus of Gawd! Joined: Posts: 10,778
    Cheers Toodles, I'll give it a go with another cable.
    Does it matter that I have the RJ45 cable hooked up to row 2 on the Cthulu for the Xbox1 cable and the USB output for PS3/PC?

    Nope. But it would be best to test out the RJ-45 with a RJ-45 -> USB cable. That a way, if the Rj-45 USB cable worked on a PC/PS3, then you'd know for sure the problem was with the RJ-45 -> Xbox cable. If the USB cable didn't work, then you'd know the problem was on the INSIDE dealing with the RJ-45 jack and the wiring between the jack and cthulhu.
  • gahrlinggahrling Better safe than Hori.. Joined: Posts: 3,968
    Since the switchcrafts cannot be found in Europe, to the best of my knowledge, I used my router to fix the Neutrik connector to my wooden box.


    Yeah, I have the same problem trying to find the Switchcraft's. You can get the Cat6 feedthrough versions in the UK, which seem a tad cheaper than the Neutrik Cat6 jacks, but that's as close as I've got.

    Alternatively, you could try a Switchcraft 15pin D Sub. The advantage to this is that you'd use SVGA plugs instead of RJ-45 plugs, and they offer a broader range of console support than a RJ-45 jack can - such as Neo-Geo.

    Nice work on the routing by the way - shame it didn't go quite to plan, but kudos for the attempt.
  • speedsterharryspeedsterharry Joined: Posts: 784
    Yeah, I have the same problem trying to find the Switchcraft's. You can get the Cat6 feedthrough versions in the UK, which seem a tad cheaper than the Neutrik Cat6 jacks, but that's as close as I've got.
    I wouldn't mind a link or two :) (I searched farnell's catalog but didn't find anything vaguely close to switchcrafts. Oh yeah, there's Neutrik's passthru but at 30 EUR a piece, it's just too much money wasted - damn, their shit is gold-plated or what ?)
    Alternatively, you could try a Switchcraft 15pin D Sub.
    I went the neutrik route because there're designed to be plugged/unplugged often, I don't think this is the case with SUBDs, where you're supposed to secure the connectors with screwdrivers....
  • gahrlinggahrling Better safe than Hori.. Joined: Posts: 3,968
    I wouldn't mind a link or two :) (I searched farnell's catalog but didn't find anything vaguely close to switchcrafts. Oh yeah, there's Neutrik's passthru but at 30 EUR a piece, it's just too much money wasted - damn, their shit is gold-plated or what ?)


    http://www.keene.co.uk/electronics/multi.php?mycode=KLC118

    Or just search for "Neutrik Cat6" on eBay.

    I went the neutrik route because there're designed to be plugged/unplugged often, I don't think this is the case with SUBDs, where you're supposed to secure the connectors with screwdrivers....


    AFAIK unplugging a D-Sub multiple times should be as stable as the 8 pin DIN method. I've seen a few people here (including Toodles) saying that RJ-45 connections aren't always 100% solid for them, but not having used any other route yet I can't personally say so either way.
  • ToodlesToodles da Fetus of Gawd! Joined: Posts: 10,778
    The UPCB used D-sub 15's, and never failed on me. I made sure to get d-sub hooks with thumbscrews so I could always screw down the cables without tools and still have a rock solid connection. The downside is that making cables with a d-sub end is much more expensive than crimping an RJ-45 end on.
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