UD-CPS2: Fully Consolized Capcom Play System 2

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  • mendopnhcmendopnhc Joined: Posts: 61
    edited September 2013
    tonnes of bad ass motherfuckers like run their boards with no fans for hours with no problem. i wouldnt do it on a board inside a cab or on a overly hot day and i'm not telling you to remove them but yeah, they're not really that neccessary
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,686
    mendopnhc wrote: »
    tonnes of bad ass motherfuckers like run their boards with no fans for hours with no problem. i wouldnt do it on a board inside a cab or on a overly hot day and i'm not telling you to remove them but yeah, they're not really that neccessary
    Then I guess I'll leave the badassery to you guys because I want my stuff to last as long as possible :D
    -ud
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,686
    Just a quick update:

    Last couple months I've mostly been getting my inventory in order (got a new inventory management system that will help greatly in staying sane) and ordering more parts. I ran into a hiccup with my last PCB order where the manufacturer sent my boards to the wrong customer. I won't go into details, but that cost me a few weeks.

    I've sent e-mail/PM updates to everyone scheduled for a mid-October build.
    -ud
  • emphaticemphatic Joined: Posts: 478
    Any update on the standalone USB->Discrete PCBs?
    I love shmups and never play fighting games.
    Here's my Guwange stick: http://www.emphatic.se/?p=197
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,686
    emphatic wrote: »
    Any update on the standalone USB->Discrete PCBs?
    I put in a little time on it last night. Still waiting on some parts for my next UD-CPS2 build-fest, so I may be able to knock it out soon.

    Still need to update the layout to reflect the last changes made to the UD-CPS2 interface. Gonna add some features, too, like selectable pull ups for interfacing the board with different setups (not everyone will be using this with arcade boards), player select jumpers (will tell the host to set LEDs on your joystick to which controller port is being used), and extra connections for remote wiring of indicator LED (for people not mounting the board right next to the exterior of their case).
    -ud
  • brutebrute Joined: Posts: 4
    Thanks for the update on the usb->Discrete boards. I'm waiting with baited breath for those bad boys.
  • Zero1_Zero1_ Combo fraud Joined: Posts: 642
    The arcade where I run the monthly ST tournament is interested in these. They were thinking about putting a USB connector on the control panel or something to allow the occasional pad player to join in.

    Would that be possible to use the standard stick and buttons, but have it so a USB peripheral would work when connected without having to flip any switches? Something like an Imp autodetect? (I'm looking forward to this as I suspect I could charge my phone while sat at a cab LOL)
  • DanAdamKOFDanAdamKOF Joined: Posts: 1,000
    Zero1_ wrote: »
    The arcade where I run the monthly ST tournament is interested in these. They were thinking about putting a USB connector on the control panel or something to allow the occasional pad player to join in.

    Would that be possible to use the standard stick and buttons, but have it so a USB peripheral would work when connected without having to flip any switches? Something like an Imp autodetect? (I'm looking forward to this as I suspect I could charge my phone while sat at a cab LOL)
    You should just be able to wire the decoder's output to where the controls connect, though if someone decides to be a jerk and press something on the control panel, it'll interfere. If that really matters (probably not, ST players are chill) use a switch to kill GND to that player's controls.
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,686
    Zero1_ wrote: »
    The arcade where I run the monthly ST tournament is interested in these. They were thinking about putting a USB connector on the control panel or something to allow the occasional pad player to join in.
    Actually, it's good for anyone who prefers their own controller! Fubarduck freaked out when he saw my UD-CPS2 demo @ EVO 2012 because he wanted to put these in his cabs @ Arcade UFO.

    As Adam mentioned, my converter can be wired directly to the buttons in the cab. It would also be the easiest access, as arcade ops need to open control panels semi-regularly for maintenance anyways.
    -ud

  • emphaticemphatic Joined: Posts: 478
    Great, I'm thinking about having a USB port near the control panel in one of my EGRET IIs so while there's a one player panel mounted there, a second player can join with a pad or arcade stick. While I have a two player panel for my cabinets, my youngest daughter is a lefty, so it'd be great to hook up her lefty stick when she wants to play Puzzle Bobble with her sister. :)
    I love shmups and never play fighting games.
    Here's my Guwange stick: http://www.emphatic.se/?p=197
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,686
    Finally finished prepping some cases today:

    th_IMG_17711_zps0f600c71.jpg

    After a thorough wash, they'll be ready for faceplate mounts and power jacks. The tools there are what I use to do the case prep. That case milling jig is a the most valuable tool for this project. I would stop building UD-CPS2s without it.
    -ud
  • Zero1_Zero1_ Combo fraud Joined: Posts: 642
    What can I say? I'm too hype for this :D
  • Zero1_Zero1_ Combo fraud Joined: Posts: 642
    Apologies for the double post, but wanted to bump this as I have an actual suggestion. I was talking with some friends in the GMC facebook group and we were chatting about custom sticks and going through the motions of button config and I read a post a little earlier where you were talking about the behaviour for the controller LEDs (eg green for connected, flashing green for config mode, red for a problem etc).

    Not sure if it's worth implementing this, but I thought about pulsing the LED to show which input you are currently mapping. Eg flash it red once and have it off for a second to show you are inputting jab, have it flash twice and off for a second to show strong, three times for fierce, and the same with kicks but with a different colour. So something like _____x_____x_____x_____x_____ for jab, _____xx_____xx_____xx_____xx_____ for strong etc.

    Oh, maybe you could flash the LED quickly 4 or 5 times if the UD CPS2 detects a stick it has a built in button mapping for so players know they are good to go without button checks, and maybe for unrecognised devices, to automatically enter setup mode for that stick?

    I also see Toodles suggested having some button combination to access the test menu via the control, so I'd like to second that as I'd prefer people not to be messing with the unit. I'll probably provide USB extension cables to act as quick disconnects in case someone trips on a modded stick that doesn't have such a feature, plus it saves the face plate getting scratched up.

    Uh oh yeah, how much power do the USB ports provide, is it the standard 500ma? I have a stick with a remora and 6x Arceye 3 that draws about 120ma when they are all lit up, and I just wondered if that is safe to connect or not.

    Sorry man, I know I'm just creating work for you now and you have enough of a job on trying to keep up with demand!
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,686
    Zero1_ wrote: »
    Apologies for the double post, but wanted to bump this as I have an actual suggestion. I was talking with some friends in the GMC facebook group and we were chatting about custom sticks and going through the motions of button config and I read a post a little earlier where you were talking about the behaviour for the controller LEDs (eg green for connected, flashing green for config mode, red for a problem etc).

    Not sure if it's worth implementing this, but I thought about pulsing the LED to show which input you are currently mapping. Eg flash it red once and have it off for a second to show you are inputting jab, have it flash twice and off for a second to show strong, three times for fierce, and the same with kicks but with a different colour. So something like _____x_____x_____x_____x_____ for jab, _____xx_____xx_____xx_____xx_____ for strong etc.

    Oh, maybe you could flash the LED quickly 4 or 5 times if the UD CPS2 detects a stick it has a built in button mapping for so players know they are good to go without button checks, and maybe for unrecognised devices, to automatically enter setup mode for that stick?
    Interesting idea, but it would actually be quicker to just do a complete remap (which only takes a moment) than to sit there staring at an LED trying to count blinks and figure out which button you are on. At this point, I don't have any good reason to use lengthy LED blink codes (reminiscent of "beep codes" for PC motherboards when something is amiss).
    Zero1_ wrote: »
    I also see Toodles suggested having some button combination to access the test menu via the control, so I'd like to second that as I'd prefer people not to be messing with the unit.
    That's been in place for a while now. Not sure that current UD-CPS2 owners use it, but it's in there. There are some cumbersome caveats that are based on the game menu itself that are outside of my control. Example:

    - P1 or P2 can enter the Test menu by holding all 6 action buttons + Coin & Start (my design)
    - Only P1 can navigate the menu. (Capcom)
    - If the sub-menu items are entered, some of them (including Input Test menu) require both P1 & P2 to hit start at the same time (Capcom)

    As long as both players understand what's going on, it's not bad, but otherwise it can be confusing.
    Zero1_ wrote: »
    Uh oh yeah, how much power do the USB ports provide, is it the standard 500ma? I have a stick with a remora and 6x Arceye 3 that draws about 120ma when they are all lit up, and I just wondered if that is safe to connect or not.
    500mA. I tried to protect the USB port pretty well, so you can dead short 5V and some other nasty things without hurting it.
    -ud
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 22,901
    @undamned

    I just though this up, but I do see using your USB interface for adapting sticks to next gen consoles.
    pair one of your USB interfaces with a next gen game pad. You have to pad hack to force common ground
    (I am hoping someone makes a universal PCB that forces a non-common ground set up to be used in common ground mods)

    What you think?
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,686
    Darksakul wrote: »
    @undamned

    I just though this up, but I do see using your USB interface for adapting sticks to next gen consoles.
    pair one of your USB interfaces with a next gen game pad. You have to pad hack to force common ground
    (I am hoping someone makes a universal PCB that forces a non-common ground set up to be used in common ground mods)

    What you think?
    Ha, cool idea! Sort of a brute force method, but until someone makes an a adapter that is direct USB-USB, that should work fine :)
    -ud
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 22,901
    Yeah seeing Dev's post on how someone got the PS4 game pad to work on a x360 got me an idea.
    I know its not the most elegant solution but I was thinking if we can hobble together a comon ground adapter like how the six axis adapter or leo board worked for a universal setup paired with your USB interface, we can wire this up to next gen game pad PCBs and we got a all-in one solution for next gen consoles.
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • WandFeuerWandFeuer Joined: Posts: 24
    Hey Brian, finally i was able to test the UCDS on my 1084S monitor. The good thing is it works, the bad thing is I only get black and white, no colour. When I plug the cable into a crt TV or my LCD it works pretty good (in case I won`t play on and LCD anyway). Are you able to shoot a photo of your 1084s backside ? So i can compare and verify if i got a different version of yours or not. By the way this an amazing part of work, like it should have always been like that ! Thanks again mate !
  • eltroubleeltrouble Joined: Posts: 5,712
    I had this problem with Don's supergun awhile back. It turns out that the video encoder on the supergun has a switch on it whose sole function, as far as I can tell, is to add color or not. The game ran in black and white for about two weeks (which looked cool), but eventually we flipped the switch and the colors came back. Bizarre.
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,686
    WandFeuer wrote: »
    Hey Brian, finally i was able to test the UCDS on my 1084S monitor. The good thing is it works, the bad thing is I only get black and white, no colour. When I plug the cable into a crt TV or my LCD it works pretty good (in case I won`t play on and LCD anyway). Are you able to shoot a photo of your 1084s backside ? So i can compare and verify if i got a different version of yours or not. By the way this an amazing part of work, like it should have always been like that ! Thanks again mate !
    Hmm, strange. Mine is actually an Amiga 1080, which looks like this:

    http://www.myoldcomputers.com/museum/perif/1080mon.htm

    Maybe check the function of some of the switches on your monitor. Sometimes they have various modes. You are just using composite video, right? If that works on your other TVs, but not your 1084, it's something with your 1084 that needs adjusting.
    -ud
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,686
    eltrouble wrote: »
    Haha, thanks :D They actually sent me an e-mail recently asking about the system. Said they might want to buy one to showcase.
    -ud
  • WandFeuerWandFeuer Joined: Posts: 24
    Thanks Brian ! I compared it and it figured out we got 2 different versions, mine is called commodore 1084s and yours Amiga Monitor and our backside is different, it looks it has a compatibility issue, but no prob, those monitors sell like hell on ebay, so i think i have to find a smaller crt TV which fits into my small appartement...
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,686
    WandFeuer wrote: »
    Thanks Brian ! I compared it and it figured out we got 2 different versions, mine is called commodore 1084s and yours Amiga Monitor and our backside is different, it looks it has a compatibility issue, but no prob, those monitors sell like hell on ebay, so i think i have to find a smaller crt TV which fits into my small appartement...
    Yes, we have different models, but the 1084(s) you have should work fine. Have you tried running any other systems on it?
    -ud
  • Zero1_Zero1_ Combo fraud Joined: Posts: 642
    edited November 2013
    Wand, Undamned, this is most likely a PAL/NTSC issue. I don't know the exact reason, but something in the back of my mind tells me that it's the difference between the way colour is encoded with PAL/NTSC - they use different colour subcarrier frequencies. Maybe Wand's monitor is PAL and is expecting colour at 4.4MHz but the output signal from the UD CPS2 is NTSC which has a 3.6MHz colour subcarrier frequency. Of course it would work fine for Undamned since his monitor is probably NTSC.

    I had this problem with my PS1 as it happens. I used to have it connected via S-Video and it was fine for PAL games but NTSC games were black and white. The funny thing is that this is the TV I use for everything. It can display NTSC on RGB SCART perfectly fine, it's just S-video where it seems it can't deal with a "foreign" signal

    Edit:
    I googled an image of the monitor and it doesn't seem to have S-video? Maybe the same problem exists for RGB but on my TV the scart socket has subcarrier detection or something, who knows?!
    Post edited by Zero1_ on
  • WandFeuerWandFeuer Joined: Posts: 24
    Yes Michael you are right, it is a Pal Monitor, but it figured out that it works pretty well with my XBOX360 / Dreamcast / SNES / Mega Drive / Gamecube and even on 60HZ (though it is written Pal 50 HZ on the backside, but it also supports 60 Hz I read this and tested it) so it might be the signal. But no prob, in this case i try to organize another model. I only wanted to pick the small Monitor because I don`t have room for a big CRT TV in my gaming room, but as soon as I got more space I`ll catch up a big one. THX
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 22,901
    WandFeuer wrote: »
    Yes Michael you are right, it is a Pal Monitor, but it figured out that it works pretty well with my XBOX360 / Dreamcast / SNES / Mega Drive / Gamecube and even on 60HZ (though it is written Pal 50 HZ on the backside, but it also supports 60 Hz I read this and tested it) so it might be the signal. But no prob, in this case i try to organize another model. I only wanted to pick the small Monitor because I don`t have room for a big CRT TV in my gaming room, but as soon as I got more space I`ll catch up a big one. THX

    If you going for small monitors, something like the old Amiga or Commodore Monitors are great, same with the (now obsolete because of HD) Sony PVM monitors
    They will accept the raw RGB and sync from the CPS2 with out need for conversion, you just have to make an adapter for the connections,
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,686
    Darksakul wrote: »
    If you going for small monitors, something like the old Amiga or Commodore Monitors are great, same with the (now obsolete because of HD) Sony PVM monitors
    They will accept the raw RGB and sync from the CPS2 with out need for conversion, you just have to make an adapter for the connections
    Actually, the Playstation video rules apply to UD-CPS2, so if you want to run it on an RGB monitor (or most upscalers), you need to first strip the Video Sync signal out of the Composite Video before applying to the monitor.
    -ud
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 22,901
    undamned wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    If you going for small monitors, something like the old Amiga or Commodore Monitors are great, same with the (now obsolete because of HD) Sony PVM monitors
    They will accept the raw RGB and sync from the CPS2 with out need for conversion, you just have to make an adapter for the connections
    Actually, the Playstation video rules apply to UD-CPS2, so if you want to run it on an RGB monitor (or most upscalers), you need to first strip the Video Sync signal out of the Composite Video before applying to the monitor.
    -ud
    I forgot your UD-CPS2 uses composite video, and video sync strippers aren't hard to set up.
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • Zero1_Zero1_ Combo fraud Joined: Posts: 642
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 22,901
    Zero1_ wrote: »
    This site has pretty much everything. SCART to BNC with built in sync stripper http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/female-rgb-break-out-scart-to-4-x-bnc--2-x-rca-for-sony-pvm-monitors.html
    They are who I ordered my Scart to JPN 21 pin adapter so I can use European scart cables on a unmodified XRGB 2 Plus
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • Zero1_Zero1_ Combo fraud Joined: Posts: 642
    How are they? I'm wanting to run the UD CPS2 through an XRGB mini, so I'm thinking of using a standard PS scart cable > Euro SCART XRGB Mini cable that they do
    http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/micomsoft-framemeister-xrgb-mini-adapter--euroscart-with-sync-stripper.html

    http://puu.sh/589uP.png Something like that
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 22,901
    edited November 2013
    Zero1_ wrote: »
    How are they? I'm wanting to run the UD CPS2 through an XRGB mini, so I'm thinking of using a standard PS scart cable > Euro SCART XRGB Mini cable that they do
    http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/micomsoft-framemeister-xrgb-mini-adapter--euroscart-with-sync-stripper.html

    http://puu.sh/589uP.png Something like that
    I can't speak for the new mini, but the device series isn't bad but they are pricy.
    Make sure you get the right scart to din 8 adapter. As hooking up a euro scart directly into a Japanese upscaller (or vise versa) can destroy both the upscaller and the console
    The connector is the same but the pin assignment is different. Kinda like normal ATX power Supplies and the Dell ATX power Supply.
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • Zero1_Zero1_ Combo fraud Joined: Posts: 642
    Yeah basically the cable they do for the mini is wired so that you can use Euro scart directly, plus it has the sync stripper built in. Sounds perfect :)
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 22,901
    edited November 2013
    undamned wrote: »
    Got USB interfaces installed on a few boards this weekend:

    http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee311/undamned_photobucket/UD-CPS2/th_DSC08592_zpsdd22f207.jpg

    Glad there are 3 episodes of "The Voice" this week because I have hours of cutting/stripping/tinning hundreds of power wires ahead of me. I feel for you, joystick modders.
    -ud

    Its the Tower of Capcom
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,686
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Its the Tower of Capcom
    U&D: Tower of Doom
    -ud
  • -TheBastard--TheBastard- FAB u LOSE! Joined: Posts: 1,276
    lol, nice tower!
    <blitzfu> cool, and bastard is a loser, screen shot that
    <Pasky> he's always trolling, he has a macro button that troll
    <Kyouya>LoL Bastard, best post evah! But you forgot the tiger uppercut!!
    Imagine a snail being able to play fgs, and being a noob in it, it would sure be a salty snail, oh the tragedy of a snail!
  • papasipapasi N Ken is the truth Joined: Posts: 1,568
    Don't have a ud-cps2 to test, but recently Socal Don's arcade helped us phoenixed one of the asia gray board.

    Now we're playing the jp version (gief 1 hit dizzy) using the asia phoenixed board

    Would the asia phoenixed board work on udcps2 A board?
    eltrouble "I doubt that ST will be on the main stream ever again."
    OhNuki: Real men play ST!!
    James Chen: there is something special about playing ST on a cab. It just feels so goooooood.
    Super Turbo Hitbox & safe jump guide http://www.strevival.com/hitbox/
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,686
    papasi wrote: »
    Don't have a ud-cps2 to test, but recently Socal Don's arcade helped us phoenixed one of the asia gray board.

    Now we're playing the jp version (gief 1 hit dizzy) using the asia phoenixed board

    Would the asia phoenixed board work on udcps2 A board?
    Not unless you had me consolize an Asia A board. Default A boards I use are USA/JAPAN. ASIA boards are physically incompatible with USA/JAPAN. They use different connectors, so it won't even fit proper.
    -ud
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