UD-CPS2: Fully Consolized Capcom Play System 2

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  • DevilsFangDevilsFang Possibly Constipated... Joined: Posts: 306
    undamned wrote: »
    Unless you contacted me years ago, it is unlikely that I will be building a UD-CPS2s for you. I still have parts to build about 25 units and those are probably triple accounted for (meaning no need to send me messages asking to take someone's spot if they bail). Life has gotten busy to the point where I'd like to shift gears to simply making kits for people to do their own conversions (or have a capable modder do it for them). Video output will certainly include RGB, as that is native to the hardware, but I may ditch the existing video encoder board as I am pursuing custom internal upscaling options. If that doesn't pan out to my liking (speed, resolution, etc.), I'll just leave video totally up to the installer. I should be releasing more details later this year.
    -ud

    I contacted you years ago. April 2015 to be exact, but you never replied.

    I would be perfectly happy with a diy kit.
    You know you haven't gone racing in a while, when you are towing your car to the track, and you keep looking in the rear view mirror while thinking "Why is that asshole tailgating me?!?!?!"
  • MrLuckyWafflesMrLuckyWaffles Joined: Posts: 1
    DevilsFang wrote: »
    undamned wrote: »
    Unless you contacted me years ago, it is unlikely that I will be building a UD-CPS2s for you. I still have parts to build about 25 units and those are probably triple accounted for (meaning no need to send me messages asking to take someone's spot if they bail). Life has gotten busy to the point where I'd like to shift gears to simply making kits for people to do their own conversions (or have a capable modder do it for them). Video output will certainly include RGB, as that is native to the hardware, but I may ditch the existing video encoder board as I am pursuing custom internal upscaling options. If that doesn't pan out to my liking (speed, resolution, etc.), I'll just leave video totally up to the installer. I should be releasing more details later this year.
    -ud

    I contacted you years ago. April 2015 to be exact, but you never replied.

    I would be perfectly happy with a diy kit.

    Yeah same, I emailed back in March 2015, and again last year, and never got a response :)

    And likewise, a DIY kit would be great too! I live in pretty active FGC area, so I'm hopeful I could find someone to help with assembly.
  • blueNINEblueNINE Alex Smith Joined: Posts: 1,336
    Sounds rad. I'd definitely be interested in being on the capable modder list, and perhaps even buying a kit for myself.
    Please let me know if you need stick mods or repairs!
  • braves01braves01 Joined: Posts: 34
    I'd love an assembled ud-cps2 if they were available (I put my name on the list a couple years ago iirc), but even the option of buying a kit and working with a capable modder would be great. So, I guess put me on the list for a kit if those ever happen. :D
  • AtariAtari Joined: Posts: 15
    Hello guys due to friend hiatus undamned and the difficulty of importing products here in Brazil,but the problem of our currency is well below the dollar,I decided to put my hand in the dough and build my own CPS2 consolized,and that was the result I managed to get as close to a UDCPS2. with two small improvements to component video output and stereo sound.https://goo.gl/photos/zDLnjmL4vNKGb8Pt8

    Interesting. Just curious what you used for the video encoding and the power supply?
  • [OCT]Wall-Garants[OCT]Wall-Garants Joined: Posts: 45
    edited February 16
    Atari wrote: »
    Hello guys due to friend hiatus undamned and the difficulty of importing products here in Brazil,but the problem of our currency is well below the dollar,I decided to put my hand in the dough and build my own CPS2 consolized,and that was the result I managed to get as close to a UDCPS2. with two small improvements to component video output and stereo sound.https://goo.gl/photos/zDLnjmL4vNKGb8Pt8

    Interesting. Just curious what you used for the video encoding and the power supply?
    I used the best video converter manufactured in Brazil and a simple power supply 12 volt, 5 amp.
    conversor-rgb-compact-neo-geo-jamma-mvs-frete-incluso-D_NQ_NP_862411-MLB20539201544_012016-F.jpg




  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,687
    Hello guys due to friend hiatus undamned and the difficulty of importing products here in Brazil,but the problem of our currency is well below the dollar,I decided to put my hand in the dough and build my own CPS2 consolized,and that was the result I managed to get as close to a UDCPS2. with two small improvements to component video output and stereo sound. More photos in the album https://goo.gl/photos/zDLnjmL4vNKGb8Pt8
    Amazing work, sir! I'm very impressed! :D
    -ud
  • [OCT]Wall-Garants[OCT]Wall-Garants Joined: Posts: 45
    edited March 16
    Thanks man. =)
  • mikeoharamikeohara Old Man Hands Joined: Posts: 291 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    Tagging for definitive interest. I have my eye on a Vampire Savior 2 CPS kit (and separate I think it's A board) on eBay that will be next on the list once I buy my new stick.
  • azisazis Megaton Puncher Joined: Posts: 255 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    Sign me up to these kits, would you, Undamned?

    How many people in the line or any timeline for that?

    Actually I could live with the UD-USB converters, whatever comes first.
  • Terraphantom89Terraphantom89 Rising Dragon Slayer Joined: Posts: 1
    Same here. I'de love to get my hands on one of these kits. To get on the waiting list do we just post here expressing an interest?
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,687
    It will be pretty easy for me to make a bunch of kits, so no need to fret about a waiting list. I got backlogged on my own builds because of the labor, but if people are doing their own labor... :D

    I'll post up a link when they are ready. Keep your shirts on, though, there's still a lot of work to be done before they are ready. I'm really hoping I can demo something at EVO and then have kits done late this year.
    -ud
  • Axel KellyAxel Kelly Joined: Posts: 1,481
    edited July 16
    Anyone use their UDCPS2 on a Sony BVM monitor? I'm having trouble getting the video to sync through RGB as well as S-video, I can't get a proper video signal on the monitor at all. Should I be taking sync from luma or composite for RGB? Any idea why my S-video is unable to sync either? I've tested the board on other TVs and it works fine so the issue is with the monitor, but the monitor works fine with all the other consoles I've tested, both RGB and S-video. I opened up my RGB cable to try to take sync from elsewhere so I can't take a pic of exactly what it looks like when trying to use RGB, but here's a pic of what it looks like when using S-video. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 24,300
    Some RGB displays don't like composite video for sync and requires composite sync (often referred to as clean sync or c sync, it's actually a combination of horizontal and vertical sync) so you might need a sync striper circuit. It depends on the model of on you have
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,687
    Axel Kelly wrote: »
    Anyone use their UDCPS2 on a Sony BVM monitor? I'm having trouble getting the video to sync through RGB as well as S-video, I can't get a proper video signal on the monitor at all. Should I be taking sync from luma or composite for RGB? Any idea why my S-video is unable to sync either? I've tested the board on other TVs and it works fine so the issue is with the monitor, but the monitor works fine with all the other consoles I've tested, both RGB and S-video. I opened up my RGB cable to try to take sync from elsewhere so I can't take a pic of exactly what it looks like when trying to use RGB, but here's a pic of what it looks like when using S-video. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

    No idea why S-video would be a problem. For RGB, UD-CPS2 uses the same pinout as Playstation systems, which means you have no dedicated Sync pin. Sync can be stripped off of the Composite video signal.
    -ud
  • oz-spaniardoz-spaniard Joined: Posts: 7
    Is this still an active thing to be able to buy these days?
  • AtariAtari Joined: Posts: 15
    ShinJN wrote: »
    Atari wrote: »
    I'd like to be on the capable modder list as well.. or at least have you issue kits to make these. I've made a few consolized CPS2 A boards this past year.

    I can vouch for Lemony. He did a fabulous CPS2 consolization for me prior to Canada Cup this year, and it was used there extensively. We used a PICO PSU, J-rok 4.1 video encoder, and UD-USB converters. It has 2 video outputs, one s-video and one RGB or component (selectable with a 2-way switch), so it is super easy to stream off of (see Toronto ST Wednesday Night Fights for this in action - put the s-video to the TV and the RGB to a Framemeister for stream, or do the opposite and set to component). Best of all, the jamma edge is still intact so you can use it normally in an arcade cabinet, and we did this at North East Championships for a bit so the flexibility is really nice to have.

    The drawback of doing the above is that the parts are quite expensive and there's no "package" per se, so an Undamned kit will hopefully help in that regard. This sounds great, and I'd like to get in line for the kit as well :)

    This sounds pretty awesome. Would it be possible to see some pictures of Lemony's awesome take of a consolized A Board?

    this was posted up on my Instagram: 14711403_961494767292582_9111173332599359694_o.jpg?oh=d2b2284c1518eac4ce18e4a1b4465056&oe=5912E658
    Finished up this #Consolized #CPS2 today! Has a JROK 4.1 video encoder, two #UDUSB Encoders and a PicoPSU. Ran it through a burn test by leaving it on attract mode for a few hours.. It's running great!
    #CCPS2 #Capcom #Arcade #RetroGaming #modding

    I thought it was worth adding to the info on the Lemony Vengeance consolization...

    So as I had previously mentioned, you can use the board in a cab. But what may not have been obvious (at least it wasn't initially apparent to me as I only recently realized and tested this) is that all the "consolized" components still work when you have it in a cab. So what that means is:

    1) You can use your own USB sticks with the cab. Meaning that someone who wants to play on a stick with American parts simply has to plug it in. We have tested this and it works perfectly.
    2) You can STREAM off the cab very easily. Simply output the Lemony's 9-pin mini DIN (Genesis 2 equivalent with the same pinout) set to RGB into a Framemeister. The same would work for other upscaling devices or capture cards with the 9-pin set to Component, or with the separate s-video output. I did this recently for a stream at Summerjam (as well as a casuals session at my house on a Versus City cab) where I went 9-pin jack set to RGB, to SCART, to Framemeister. This is the highest quality possible stream output from any CPS2 game so it's amazing. And best of all, no modifications to the cab (installing video encoder, etc.) are required. Just plug and play.

    We will be using the Lemony board for the main stream cabinet at Canada Cup this year. Not only am I thrilled about the stream quality (which is a gigantic improvement from the composite video encoder we used last year), I'm thrilled that guys in attendance like Mike Watson and David Spence will be able to play on the American sticks they prefer.

    Seriously, there is not a single piece of gear I can better envision for use with ST or VSAV tournaments for these reasons. And this is not a knock on any other gear, I'm just saying that this particular item is absolutely perfect and incredibly versatile.
  • ShinJNShinJN President/COO & Co-Founder of Level Up, LLC, Event & Stream Director/Producer, Old School Tech Talk Joined: Posts: 853 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    @Atari Could you share the settings you use on the Framemeister for ST using RGB via the mini-din? I can't quite get the picture to look proper.
    Jimmy Nguyen
    Level Up, LLC - COO, CFO, CTO, Tech/Production/Stream/Event Director - www.levelup-productions.com, www.levelup-series.com
    The Bear: Wiring Gone Wild - http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/2409761/#Comment_2409761
  • AtariAtari Joined: Posts: 15
    ShinJN wrote: »
    @Atari Could you share the settings you use on the Framemeister for ST using RGB via the mini-din? I can't quite get the picture to look proper.

    Sorry for the delay ShinJN, I just saw this. I'm just using the stock Framemeister settings with a couple tweaks but let me take a look and I'll run through them and list them out. (One thing I'm not doing btw is introducing scan lines but it's something I've considered, though I think the standard is NO scan lines in like any ST stream at this point.) One very important thing that I've found is to make sure you're getting a good, clean, strong signal into the Framemeister. In other words, it may not be about the Framemeister settings in your case; it may be about the source feed.

    If you're using a Jasen's Customs supergun for steam, one thing I've noticed, and I've been meaning to shoot Jasen a message on this to see if he agrees with my conclusion and if there's anything we might be able to do about it, is that the 8-pin RGB feed off the back of the supergun has a signal that's somehow not as bright and looks a bit dirty. It's hard to describe but if you see it and compare with a direct clean feed, you'll notice a difference. Same goes with all the other video outputs on the back panel actually.

    I tested this out by opening the supergun and grabbing a component feed directly off the Jrok video encoder (the RCA ports are still on it), and then comparing the quality with a connection to the jacks on the back of the supergun (using the same TV and cable). The back panel feeds are indeed all a bit "dirtier" for lack of a better word, and I suspect this has to do with the fact that all the video passes through an additional PCB board within the supergun. I also tested by taking RGB off my Lemony setup (which comes off the board directly when you have RGB selected, or at least through the Jrok RGB out) into the Framemeister and comparing with Jasen's model. There too, the latter was dirtier.

    Not sure if there will be a solution other than opening the thing and connecting wires directly, but first thing I'd like to do is bring it to Jasen's attention to see if he agrees (in other words, to ensure I'm not going crazy :) ). But another way to test this is if you have a Jamma cable with RGB outputs built in (like you had at SCR) - if you connect that cable (which feeds directly from the board and not through any additional PCBs) into a PVM, and feed the back panel RGB output directly to a PVM (via 8-pin to BNC or to SCART then BNC depending on what cables you have available) you'll likely see the same issue.

    I'll reach out to Jasen but in the meantime I'll try to get you those Framemeister settings in the next several days.
  • ShinJNShinJN President/COO & Co-Founder of Level Up, LLC, Event & Stream Director/Producer, Old School Tech Talk Joined: Posts: 853 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    Atari wrote: »
    ShinJN wrote: »
    @Atari Could you share the settings you use on the Framemeister for ST using RGB via the mini-din? I can't quite get the picture to look proper.

    Sorry for the delay ShinJN, I just saw this. I'm just using the stock Framemeister settings with a couple tweaks but let me take a look and I'll run through them and list them out. (One thing I'm not doing btw is introducing scan lines but it's something I've considered, though I think the standard is NO scan lines in like any ST stream at this point.) One very important thing that I've found is to make sure you're getting a good, clean, strong signal into the Framemeister. In other words, it may not be about the Framemeister settings in your case; it may be about the source feed.

    If you're using a Jasen's Customs supergun for steam, one thing I've noticed, and I've been meaning to shoot Jasen a message on this to see if he agrees with my conclusion and if there's anything we might be able to do about it, is that the 8-pin RGB feed off the back of the supergun has a signal that's somehow not as bright and looks a bit dirty. It's hard to describe but if you see it and compare with a direct clean feed, you'll notice a difference. Same goes with all the other video outputs on the back panel actually.

    I tested this out by opening the supergun and grabbing a component feed directly off the Jrok video encoder (the RCA ports are still on it), and then comparing the quality with a connection to the jacks on the back of the supergun (using the same TV and cable). The back panel feeds are indeed all a bit "dirtier" for lack of a better word, and I suspect this has to do with the fact that all the video passes through an additional PCB board within the supergun. I also tested by taking RGB off my Lemony setup (which comes off the board directly when you have RGB selected, or at least through the Jrok RGB out) into the Framemeister and comparing with Jasen's model. There too, the latter was dirtier.

    Not sure if there will be a solution other than opening the thing and connecting wires directly, but first thing I'd like to do is bring it to Jasen's attention to see if he agrees (in other words, to ensure I'm not going crazy :) ). But another way to test this is if you have a Jamma cable with RGB outputs built in (like you had at SCR) - if you connect that cable (which feeds directly from the board and not through any additional PCBs) into a PVM, and feed the back panel RGB output directly to a PVM (via 8-pin to BNC or to SCART then BNC depending on what cables you have available) you'll likely see the same issue.

    I'll reach out to Jasen but in the meantime I'll try to get you those Framemeister settings in the next several days.

    I noticed this too! I thought it was just me. The problem is also the power supply. I changed it out and the picture got cleaner, but still is lesser in quality as compared to the ProGamer supergun.
    Jimmy Nguyen
    Level Up, LLC - COO, CFO, CTO, Tech/Production/Stream/Event Director - www.levelup-productions.com, www.levelup-series.com
    The Bear: Wiring Gone Wild - http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/2409761/#Comment_2409761
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 24,300
    edited October 6
    Some Arcade boards just have "noise" on their video outputs, and this varies from different video boards.
    The peak voltage levels on the RGB and Sync lines tend to be on the high side as well.
    Since RBG and Sync lines are analog signals, it is hard to get a good reading with a multimeter as your readings with jump around with the oscillation of the waves of those analog signals.
    An Oscilloscope would be a better tool to get proper readings but I don't have access to one.

    I am looking into the issue myself, the Jrok does what it needs to for Composite, Component and S-video.

    I know people who put some attenuation on those lines to get them down and back to NTSC/Pal standards.
    Make sure your video cables are shielded, as long runs of wires tend to act as antennas and pick up any Electromagnetic interference.

    Shielded cables, and sometimes adding a ferrite core to the cable makes a huge difference.

    Jasen already have pots on the RGB lines (as each board gives out different levels).

    What I done to my Super Gun is added a 470Ω resistor and a 10µF cap to the sync line. Keep in mind my Supergun setup is to dedicated Neo Geo use and I use a MVH-MV1T 1 Slot MVS board. So your own results will vary. The Resistor is to get the voltage down closer to standard levels video input levels for consumer equipment. The Cap is for DC current coupling, to filter out any AC current.
    I sorta repeat the process on my RGB lines with a 75Ω Resistor and a 220 µF capacitors. The Capacitors do boost the voltage levels a little bit as well, but in the scale of millivolts.

    Since the later Jasen Hicks MK 30 ADCAP supergun already has adjustable pots on the RGB lines (I forgot if they are 500Ω or 1000Ω) it would not be that hard to stick those caps into a scart connector or something.

    I started a thread on video attenuation on Superguns if we dont want to derail the thread away from the topic of Consolized CPS2
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • scratchbackscratchback Joined: Posts: 1,045
    Are these still available to order? Any other options? Been trying to get a Super Turbo cabinet and just discovered the whole suspergun thing and it seems like a better option instead of trying to find a whole arcade cab which has been impossible so far for me.
  • XeDXeD Joined: Posts: 13
    I would love to get my hand on a diy kit so I can do a CPS3 rig.
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,687
    Are these still available to order? Any other options? Been trying to get a Super Turbo cabinet and just discovered the whole suspergun thing and it seems like a better option instead of trying to find a whole arcade cab which has been impossible so far for me.
    From previous page: http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/11160592/#Comment_11160592
    XeD wrote: »
    I would love to get my hand on a diy kit so I can do a CPS3 rig.
    I'll consider doing a CPS3 kit, once I've finished the CPS2 kit design. Marqs (OSSC designer is looking into making an HDMI board for both CPS2 and CPS3).
    -ud
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 24,300
    undamned wrote: »
    Marqs (OSSC designer is looking into making an HDMI board for both CPS2 and CPS3).
    -ud

    I heard something about that from Retro RGB a while back
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • XeDXeD Joined: Posts: 13
    edited December 11
    undamned wrote: »
    Are these still available to order? Any other options? Been trying to get a Super Turbo cabinet and just discovered the whole suspergun thing and it seems like a better option instead of trying to find a whole arcade cab which has been impossible so far for me.
    From previous page: http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/11160592/#Comment_11160592
    XeD wrote: »
    I would love to get my hand on a diy kit so I can do a CPS3 rig.
    I'll consider doing a CPS3 kit, once I've finished the CPS2 kit design. Marqs (OSSC designer is looking into making an HDMI board for both CPS2 and CPS3).
    -ud

    Nice good to hear. I'll redo mine once its out. My current setup is a modify superbios in no CD mode and an angle card holder, 2 strip down converter, a neo geo video converter and a pico psu. It would be nice to have once pcb for sale both usb converter though :)
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