Official FA Sparky PWM RGB LED Controller Thread

jmanDMC

Hey all,

Most players in Tech Talk are familiar with the works of Eugene Andruszczenko (aka 32Teeth), the creator of the highly programmable Sparky PWM RGB LED Controller. With his blessing to work with this open source project, and the help of Paradise Arcade, we now offering a great version of this product at Focusattack.com. It is shipping today and worldwide for just $32.95.

Purchase the Sparky RGB LED Controller at focusattack.com

What is the Sparky?

For those who aren't familiar with the Sparky RGB LED Controller is a programmable RGB LED companion light up activation controller for pushbuttons on gaming fightsticks. The controller allows you to create unlimited color combinations through varying levels of red green and blue, along with changing colors upon a combination of button press. It allows you to program lighting patterns either manually through specific button combinations, or via the "Configurator" - a multi-platform application that gives you total control over your color transitions.

Sparky PWM Features

Among other features the Sparky PWM has the following:

• Ability to display the full spectrum of color through RGB LEDs
• Support for 6 or 8 button configurations
• Ability to map color to specific buttons or button combinations (ie assign Red to Light Punch, Blue to Medium Kick, or Orange to Focus Attack (MP+MK))

While the Sparky PWM itself isn't new, the redesigned Sparky comes with 2 wiring harnesses to ease installation across buttons:

• 5-wire RGB and ground harness
• 16-wire power and .110 quick disconnect harness for buttons

To make the installation a solder-less experience, we currently include 34 wiring connectors. The connectors allow you to insert wires into the ports to replicate an electrical connection. Four per button are provided, plus one for each of the power connections for total of 34 connectors (8 x 4 plus 2, or 34 total).

Programming the Sparky PWM

The "Configurator" is a Windows and Mac OS X compatible application that interfaces with your joystick's LEDs through its USB port. Once connected, the application lets you choose your schema (button or button combination), then choose the color you want. You can also choose fade/fade out options. Once completed, the action is displayed on your button LED directly on your controller. You can download it on the Sparky website.

http://sparky.32teeth.org/downloads.html

So what is the point of this thread?

This thread is meant to address questions you might have regarding the redesigned Sparky PWM, plus how to program your Sparky to it's full potential. Several experienced builders will visit the thread to post notes, videos and answer some questions regarding both units. These people include

• 32Teeth - creator of the original Sparky PWM LED Controller has offered to post helpful notes once he gets the new Sparky.
• armi0024 - founder of Paradise Arcade Shop has expertise in many types of LED installs and components.
• Nerrage - well known and respected member of SRK's Tech Talk team and founder of the non-profit organization Sticks for Joy.

And of course, you. We definitely welcome any feedback and helpful answers that you can give to players that ask questions here. We hope that this thread may complement the existing Sparky PWM thread here on SRK.

Resources

Related YouTube playlists

• Focus Attack Uila LED and Sparky PWM
• Sparky Jr RGB LED Controller

Original Sparky RGB LED Controller Thread on SRK

Thanks for reading!

32teeth

I should be getting mine this week to test and install.
Expect a few things from me.
Review, video, how to hack the device and more.

Sephz

So I was hoping to get a little bit more specific information about programing my new sparky. To be perfectly honest I'm pretty novice when it comes down to it, but i'm def not an idiot and consider myself a fast learner and overall pretty savvy. I was hoping you could break down step by step what I'm going to need to do to customize my LED's in an 8 button layout. Thanks in advance.

defankt

My FA Sparky PWM turned up the other day. I'm going to install it into my RAP VX-SA this weekend. I'm pretty much ready to roll, with Seimitsu buttons, Uila S LEDs and a FTDI cable to program it. But I was just wondering as I've never done anything like this before. Do I use the VCC and Ground on the usb to power and ground the Sparky?



Thanks.

Solder

Bookmarked. I'm looking into venturing into the world of LED's for one of my sticks, and this will be a great asset.

Thanks.

32teeth

defankt, post: 6074776 wrote:

Do I use the VCC and Ground on the usb to power and ground the Sparky?

I am not familiar with the Hori PCB you posted, but in short, yes. You can use those point from the USB to supply the Sparky with power (VCC/GND). I would recommend using the pin 4 GND as the pin 5 GND may just be a shielded ground.

If it makes more sense for your wiring, us the VCC from the USB and the GND from the joystick directions pins. There are no pins in between. But hey, thats just would be my style of wiring.

Lastly, if you really want to keep it clean, you can always use one of those empty capacitor headers (C3, C8, C13), the VCC is indicated with a + and the other point will be ground. But since i can't see whats on the other side not sure it's the best.

jdm714

Yes.

defankt

Cool, thanks a lot. I'll give it a go this weekend.

I've found a shot of the front of the board. Posted by Nerrage. I think the other shot was JDM714.

GonzoDX

I'm about to install my PA sparky. Figured I would post my simple wiring diagram see if any body sees any errors in it.

(Changing wiring due to error, sorry if anybody used this) please do not!

xFATSAKSx

I just got my sparky pwm smd. I'm not very familiar with led boards,and I had it installed by gummowned. How do I program the led's? I've been reading about something called a ftdi cable? Can someone please point me in the right direction. I downloaded the configurator, but don't know where to go from from there. Thanks

GonzoDX

I think this is what you need for the PA Sparky PWM... at least I hope because its what I got to program it.
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9716

Jayducky

Has the Uila LED been tested on the new clear sanwa buttons? I am waiting for someone to chime in on compatibility. I thought I read 32 TEETH was possibly working on an LED specifically for the new clear sanwas.

jdm714

Current Uila will not work with the Sanwa.
The LED get in way of the Plunger to be pressed.

jmanDMC

Hey all,

Thanks for chiming in and asking questions. We're reviewing them and will have answers for you soon.

luan87us

Finally there's a thread for this stuff. I have been thinking about doing LED for awhile now but did not have enough resource to know what I'm doing. This will come in handy.

Testikils

I just got mine and have set it all up but I think I may of done something wrong, will it light up at all before I've programmed it?

32teeth

So, first off, it has been a really humbling experience for an open source creation to be picked up and adopted by other individuals. In this case, Jaleel from FocusAttack and Brian from Paradise Arcade.

Jaleel sent me one of these bad boys for review. Got mine yesterday (been away for a while) and i plan to do several reviews as well as guides. I am not going to reserve posts in this thread, rather i will continue to edit this one.

Here we go.

Paradise Arcade / FocusAttack Sparky Jr review
part one (the basics)

Again, thanks Jaleel for sending me an evaluation version. As a heads up, i will be using the ArcEyeII for this implementation (mostly because i don't have UILA) and i have an abundance of ArcEyeII already installed in several sticks.

Here is a close up shot of the FA/PA Sparky Jr



In the photo above, you will notice thread header pin breakouts.

Far left is the pinout for an FTDI breakout to plug into. If you are unfamiliar with an FTDI breakout, you can get one here (http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10008). This is the one i used in this review since i couldn't find a USB-B cable this morning (LOL) to plug in a SparkPlug (http://sparky.32teeth.org/#SparkPlug).

The FTDI breakout is used to reprogram the existing code on the chip. The chip ships with the Sparky code (http://sparky.32teeth.org/downloads.html) V2.0, and the Arduino bootloader. If you want to upgrade to the 3.0 you can do so grabbing the code from the link and uploading yourself using the Arduino 1.0 IDE found here (http://code.google.com/p/arduino/wiki/Arduino1). Arduino 0.22 IDE is here (http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software)

Connecting an FTDI breakout
Method 1: By Wire


These 6 pin wiring harnesses are readily available from shops like Sparkfun, Adafruit, Macetech, Robotshop and so on. They are pretty dirt cheap and available in varying length.

In one of my fightsticks i use a 15" version as the Sparky sits near the other PCBs and the FTDI is mounted inside the cable enclosure. This allows for plug and play reprogramming or using the configurator.

Method 2: Direct


You would do this method in a few instances. Program once, close the case, forget about it.
Or if you don't want the extra wiring harness and such, but you will need to open the case if you want to reprogram.

Here is a video of me uploading the Sparky v3.0 Code to the PA / FA Sparky


The PA / FA Sparky Jr comes with 2.0 pre installed. No harm. You can still use the 3.0 configurator with this install. (We just made it happy that way!)

***important***
if you are updating or reprogramming the Sparky using the Arduino IDE, you will want to select "Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (5V, 16 MHz) w/ ATmega328" from the boards menu under tools. You see it quickly in the video above.
****************

In this next video, we launch the Configurator (from uncompiled source) to demonstrate that it picks up the COM ports, and is able to communicate with the Sparky. The TX/RX LEDs on the FTDI breakout light up, indicating that information is being passed back and fourth.



If you had this hooked up to some ArcEye's or UILA's you would see their buttons light up accordingly.

That's it for now as a starting point for the review.
In the next few reviews we will:

1. show you how to "hack" the bootloader (if you wanted to)
2. hook this little bad boy up to the actual controller and LEDs

Thanks Jaleel! Be sure to check out his shop for the PA / FA Sparky Jrs.
http://www.focusattack.com/sparky-pwm-smd-led-controller-pcb/

jhferry

Where you guys doing a video on connecting to a TE?

xFATSAKSx

Ok maybe someone can help? I have the sparky pwm from focus attack. I picked up a ftdi breakout http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9716. I hooked it up to the sparky via usb to config via the config program. When I try to make a selection where it says select port, I have no ports to select from?

GonzoDX

xFATSAKSx, post: 6110785 wrote:

Ok maybe someone can help? I have the sparky pwm from focus attack. I picked up a ftdi breakout http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9716. I hooked it up to the sparky via usb to config via the config program. When I try to make a selection where it says select port, I have no ports to select from?

Did you install the drivers from the product page? http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9716

jmanDMC

jhferry, post: 6110521 wrote:

Where you guys doing a video on connecting to a TE?

We're working with Nerrage on that part. He last said that he may have something done over Thanksgiving vacation.

32teeth

xFATSAKSx, post: 6110785 wrote:

Ok maybe someone can help? I have the sparky pwm from focus attack. I picked up a ftdi breakouthttp://www.sparkfun.com/products/9716. I hooked it up to the sparky via usb to config via the config program. When I try to make a selection where it says select port, I have no ports to select from?

GonzoDX, post: 6110923 wrote:

Did you install the drivers from the product page? http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9716

You can additionally download the Arduino IDE which contains the drivers within it.
Lastly, if you want direct from FTDI Chip (http://www.ftdichip.com/FTDrivers.htm)

GonzoDX

I havent finished the stick yet but I am close. All the buttons work. PA Sparky with Uila S flash (flash not hooked up)

32teeth

GonzoDX, post: 6114338 wrote:

I havent finished it the stick yet but I am close. All the buttons work. PA Sparky with Uila S flash (flash not hooked up)

nice work!

jmanDMC

GonzoDX, post: 6114338 wrote:

I havent finished it the stick yet but I am close. All the buttons work. PA Sparky with Uila S flash (flash not hooked up)

Nice! Posted a link to it on our Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Focus-Attack-Street-Fighter-Fighting-Game-Store/113337002013041

xFATSAKSx

thanks guys! everything worked great after the driver install.

32teeth

Paradise Arcade / FocusAttack Sparky Jr review
part two (wire hack)

In this review, i will reveal to you how to hack your FA / PA Sparky Jr
I would consider this an Advanced mod, and not recommended for anyone without AVR skills.
If you lock the fuses, render the ATMEGA useless, you are on your own and no support will be provided. Be Warned!

What you will need
1. FA / PA Sparky Jr
2. 6x Female to Female Jumper Wires
3. A programmer (USBTinyISP, AVRISPmkII, ...whatever)

In this example i use an USBTinyISP simply because it provides power to the board.
Using an AVRISPmkII you will need to source power to the board, but if you have one of these, you know that already.

Connecting the 'faux' ISP header to the programmer (USBTinyISP)

Step 1:
On the back of the programmer the pins are labelled. You will want to connect your F/F jumpers to
VCC, GND, RST, SCK, MISO, MOSI


Step 2:
On the FA / PA Sparky Jr you will want to connect your wires as follows

Programmer----|----Sparky
VCC

---

|----3rd Pin up from BLK on FTDI Header
GND

---

|----2nd Pin up from BLK on FTDI Header
RST

---

|

---

1st Pin down from GRN on FTDI Header
SCK

---

|

---

K2 on LED row
MISO

---

|

---

K3 on LED row
MOSI

---

|

---

Blue


Step 3:
The business


So, you may ask. "Why would i ever want to do something like this?"

Well, here are a few reasons:

1. You want to upload a new Arduino Bootloader (not the Sparky programme)
2. You want to directly upload the Sparky HEX bypassing and overwritting the Arduino Bootloader. This will run the program faster, but you will need to use this method if you chose to update the program. Unless of course you flash the bootloader back on.
3. You want to turn the Sparky Jr into something else, like a toaster with GPS

Anyway, there you go. This was review #2 of the FA / PA Sparky Jr.

32teeth

Paradise Arcade / FocusAttack Sparky Jr review
part three (connecting, uploading, editing and the configurator)

welcome to part three of the Sparky Jr review from Paradise Arcade / FocusAttaack

In this review, i will illustrate the manners in which you would:

1. connect and upload the new Sparky Jr v3.0 sketch to your Sparky board
2. connect and edit you config via the configurator

What you will need
1. An FTDI Breakout (Sparkfun, Modern Device, SparkPlug, FTDI Cable)
2. A Six pin wire harness (if not using an FTDI Cable)
3. A Sparky Jr (of course)
4. Download the Sparky Jr 3.0 program from the SVN repository. You WILL need the folder and all it's files.
5. Download the Sparky Jr 3.0 configurator from the Sparky Jr site downloads section

In this example i use an SparkPlug to connect to the Sparky Jr.
You can use any of the devices listed in #1 of the list above

Connecting the Sparky Jr to the SparkPlug

Step 1:
Mate the SparkPlug to the Sparky Jr


in the image above, you will notice my 'ghetto rig' for this review.
The SparkPlug is connected to the Sparky Jr using the 6 pin wire harness. Make sure you connect it properly. The BLK on the Sparky Jr silk 6 pin header goes to GND on the SparkPlug

The 'ghetto rig' features a 10mm Diffused RGB LED (Common Anode). The RGB legs are connected appropriately to the Red Bue and Green signals on the Sparky Jr. The Anode leg is connected to K3 on the LED header row of the Sparky



in the image above, i put a folded piece of paper over the RGB LED simply for the reason that it was white washing the pictures without it.

Step 2: Uploading the new Sparky Jr program
With all the connections in place, you are ready to upload the Sparky Jr from the Arduino IDE

Make sure you set your Board to "Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (5V, 16 MHz) w/ ATmega328" from the Tools > Board menu

Click the upload button and let the Arduino IDE do the rest. You will see the TX/RX lights on your FTDI device going bananas for a few seconds while it uploads.

Once it is complete, the Sparky Jr 3.0 program will run. You will see your first three kicks go Red, Yellow, Green. This is normal operation for Mode Selection.



Step 3: Connecting and editing from the configurator
Yay, you have made it this far.

Now, let's go find the Sparky Jr Configurator that you downloaded from the What you need section above.

1. Run the configurator
2. Follow the onscreen instructions
3. Do you damage
4. Watch this video

polenykes

Can anyone tell me if this makes sense/will work?
I'm trying to get as prepared as posible for when my parts arrive :)

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii46/polenykes/sparkyCircut.jpg
(please excuse the roughness)

as you can see, not sure what to do with the Uila White, do I just ground it on the ps360?

32teeth

polenykes, post: 6156548 wrote:

Can anyone tell me if this makes sense/will work?
I'm trying to get as prepared as posible for when my parts arrive :)

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii46/polenykes/sparkyCircut.jpg
(please excuse the roughness)

as you can see, not sure what to do with the Uila White, do I just ground it on the ps360?

@polenykes



here is one i drew up in a few minutes to clarify for those that don't understand where you have 'a' as your button (some people don't get schematics)
you are correct in asking what to do with the white LED.

the original sparky was only created (configurator as well) to only control the RGB lines, not an additional White.
If you wanted to get creative, you could tie the White LED to a GND signal somewhere for Always ON, active on press whatever.

Let me think about it a little bit and i will see what i can come up with

jmanDMC

Hi all,

Thanks big time to 32Teeth for assisting with these community-based questions regarding the SparkyPWM and wiring questions. It's very helpful and will encourage other players to participate.

SRK's Nerrage of Sticks for Joy fame has received a Sparky PWM kit, and has agreed to fashion some informative videos to help new players better understand the wiring and install process. He is using a MadCatz TE joystick for the videos, and will start recording over the holiday weekend. We'll keep you posted. Thanks!

polenykes

@32Teeth
thank-you :)

That makes sense to me now, doesn't even seem overly hard.

jhferry

Anyone have a TE diagram or video yet?

jmanDMC

jhferry, post: 6214516, member: 4964 wrote:

Anyone have a TE diagram or video yet?

We've talked with Nerrage about a possible TE based video for the Sparky. He just finished a Paewang install video for us. We'll ask about the Sparky video. Thanks!

Clone1B

Whats the difference between a Sparky PWM and a Sparky Jr?

32teeth

Clone1B, post: 6214588, member: 42764 wrote:

Whats the difference between a Sparky PWM and a Sparky Jr?

The Sparky offered by Focus Attack is a Sparky Jr 2.0 PWM. Both offer a configurator and share the same codebase for changing your color patterns.
The original Sparky Jr has been discontinued and no longer supported.

GLORYBE26OD

32teeth, post: 6157075, member: 16372 wrote:

@polenykes



here is one i drew up in a few minutes to clarify for those that don't understand where you have 'a' as your button (some people don't get schematics)
you are correct in asking what to do with the white LED.

the original sparky was only created (configurator as well) to only control the RGB lines, not an additional White.
If you wanted to get creative, you could tie the White LED to a GND signal somewhere for Always ON, active on press whatever.

Let me think about it a little bit and i will see what i can come up with


So for basic operation the whight wire dosn't need to be connected? I just want confermation.

jhferry

Is the FTDI needed for simple configs? It sounds like it can be programmed through button combinations but I cant find any other info on it.

GLORYBE26OD

I asked the same question. The answer I got was that it comes with a default program but then you need FTDI for further programing. Gurus what do you think?

Vicko

it does come pre programmed. you need an ftdi cable to use with the configurator to change colors/patterns

jhferry

So if I was using budget uila's and dont care about colors etc is there no way to change how the led's behave? Like with the pre programming are there some default options?

jmanDMC

jhferry, post: 6229488, member: 4964 wrote:

So if I was using budget uila's and dont care about colors etc is there no way to change how the led's behave? Like with the pre programming are there some default options?

JhFerry: The Uila Budget when used with the Sparky may be a simple on-off process, but I believe that Nerrage or 32Teeth can explain that. Nerrage mentioned that he is working on a video with the Sparky controller and a number of options to take advantage of it. I'll send him the Uila Budget and see if he can also cover that for those who are interested.

32teeth

jhferry, post: 6229488, member: 4964 wrote:

So if I was using budget uila's and dont care about colors etc is there no way to change how the led's behave? Like with the pre programming are there some default options?

Jaleel is half way correct.
With the UILA Budget you only have one color. White.
But, that being said, you can use a FA Sparky and the configurator to simply change the intensity of the white when pressed.

Example, using the UILA Budget, connect the 8 (or 6) white wires to a color output (R, G or B) of the FA Sparky. (be sure to remember which one it was)
Connect the black wire to the output row on the FA Sparky according to which button it relates to.

Open up the config and select a color range from the color you connected to. You can assign different intensities this way. C'est tout.
You are pretty limited and may want to simply stick with an on off kinda setup.

zekedanger

i was wondering how exactly you would install this with the Cthulhu ps3 bored bored new to led and all of this in general any help would be greatly appreciated

32teeth

Here is a general assembly for the original sparky. the theory is the same
https://sparky.svn.beanstalkapp.com/sparky/trunk/Documentation/SparkyJrAssembly.pdf

Nerrage

Hello all,

I have a video in the works for the use of the Sparky PWM SMD, but, I wrote a guide today in another Thread, and I thought I would share it here. I'd say, if this is too confusing, wait for the video.

Connect all of the red wires from the Uilas to every red wire from all the Uilas, use the 3M ScotchLocks included to do so. You slide wires that you want to connect into the hole, and then pop it down with your fingers to connect the wires. Then connect that to the Red wire labeled "R" from the smaller harness.

Connect all the blues wires from the Uilas to each other, just like the red wires. To the "B" blue wire on the smaller harness. Same with greens.

Then, slide the Signal wires from your button onto their respective button, using the larger harness, e.g.
１Ｐ　２Ｐ　３Ｐ　４Ｐ
１Ｋ　２Ｋ　３Ｋ　４Ｋ

Use the wire that has the quick disconnects attached. Take the wire off of the button, connect it to the male QD, and then connect the female QD to the button. If you accidentally connect the ground wire this way, that's okay, the button will just be lit up all of the time, so after wiring it, just switch. If you don't know which is which, just guess. For the ones that always light up, just switch those, and they'll be right the second time.

Then, for the wires on the harness that don't have a QD, connect those to the Black wires from the Uila using the ScotchLocks. The White wires will not be used, so you can cut them.

Now, to power the PCB, you will need to cut your USB cable. Don't cut it directly off of your PCB, cut the cable a few inches away from your PCB. Then, strip the cable to expose four wires on both sides that you've cut. Use a ScotchLock to reconnect the green and a separate ScothLock to connect white wires back together. Then, slide the two red wires together with the red wire from the smaller harness, and connect them with a ScotchLock. Do the same with the black wires.

After that, you should have your Sparky PMW SMD all ready to go. If you want to change the colors, you can use an FTDI Breakout and the Sparky Configurator.http://sparky.32teeth.org/downloads.html

Brosnan

Just wondering, is there still a TE-specific full-length tutorial on the way? There are video guides up for more specific pieces of the install process (e.g. how to hook up a single button to the Sparky PWM), but I don't really feel prepared to start hacking wires apart until I've seen the whole process done with the components I plan to use: Uila-S Flashes with the Sparky PWM in a TE-S. I did basic button and artwork replacement on my old TE, and now that I have a new TE-S, this will be my first time trying something with a little bit of electrical engineering work involved, and I really don't want to screw it up!

For that matter, I've seen people do a beautiful job of keeping wires organized so that the inside of their stick mod looks as nice as the outside. My first TE mod was sort of a hack job, and I'd rather not repeat that, but I've never really seen a skilled modder go through the process. It seems like with an LED mod, you're going to have wires coming out your ass by the time you're all done with it, so it would be really helpful to see the best approach to that, too.

Nerrage

Brosnan, post: 6280497, member: 11513 wrote:

Just wondering, is there still a TE-specific full-length tutorial on the way? There are video guides up for more specific pieces of the install process (e.g. how to hook up a single button to the Sparky PWM), but I don't really feel prepared to start hacking wires apart until I've seen the whole process done with the components I plan to use: Uila-S Flashes with the Sparky PWM in a TE-S. I did basic button and artwork replacement on my old TE, and now that I have a new TE-S, this will be my first time trying something with a little bit of electrical engineering work involved, and I really don't want to screw it up!

For that matter, I've seen people do a beautiful job of keeping wires organized so that the inside of their stick mod looks as nice as the outside. My first TE mod was sort of a hack job, and I'd rather not repeat that, but I've never really seen a skilled modder go through the process. It seems like with an LED mod, you're going to have wires coming out your ass by the time you're all done with it, so it would be really helpful to see the best approach to that, too.

Yes, I will have one coming. I'm just waiting on a new 720p camera so that everything will not be fuzzy, like my older videos. It will be in a TE, but it is not TE or system specific, the logic is the same for any common ground stick that is wired and working via USB.

However, the install will not be as clean as you would like. Cleanliness takes more time and practice than just working. I choose to do quickly and uncleanly so that everyone can understand and do it themselves. If you want clean, honestly, it may be a bit hard with the current kit's set up, because it's designed to be easy, not clean. You CAN cut the wires and solder them to undersides of barrier strips and hide wires and do things like that, but it'd probably require cutting the harness up, which I don't recommend, unless if you really know what you're doing.

That being said, everything will be solderless, and shouldn't be too difficult to follow. I only plan on using four tools. Lighter, scissors, Allen Wrench, and a Screwdriver.

Brosnan

Cool, looking forward to seeing that. I wasn't planning to go too overboard with regard to organization, but I would at least like to have the wires neatly bound together in a way that makes the stick easy to close and keeps any wires from being pinched or crushed. On my round 1 TE, it was actually hard to get the damn thing shut after I'd gone in there and fiddled with it.

jellgeta

[SIZE=13px]I hooked mine up, but right after some buttons were registering as two. For instance my light punch button registers as a light punch and medium kick. Would anyone happen to know what might cause this?[/SIZE]

Vicko

Your quick disconnects are probably not fully insulated and are touching each other. Happened to me too