HORI Fighting EDGE

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  • AkshenAkshen Joined: Posts: 63
    There's no compiled guide but all the info you need is in the last few pages of this thread plus the FB thread (with regards to the FB).

    Kind of a cop out. I'm sure there are very few individuals skilled enough to scavenge through 18 PAGES of posts to find the few relevant posts, and the skills to figure it out. A guide would help us peasants who at least know how to use a soldering iron. But that would be time consuming so it's understandable if you don't want to do it.

    It's not really a cop out. It's more like not spoon feeding.
  • AnalogSandwichAnalogSandwich Joined: Posts: 8
    Akshen wrote: »
    It's not really a cop out. It's more like not spoon feeding.

    What's wrong with spoon feeding? There's like, millions of DIY guides on the internet. It's for people not as technically skilled as the guide author. These authors want to share their talent with others. But like I said, authoring one takes time so fine if he doesn't want to. But people who want a guide aren't babies.
  • aszydaszyd Joined: Posts: 505
    Pretty much everything you need to know to do his mod is on Page 17. Compare the image of the pinout with what he posted and it should be pretty obvious what's going on. The only thing I can't make out is how he is getting the +5v to both boards, but I'm sure there is a wire hiding in there somewhere.
  • ChaoticMonkChaoticMonk Shut The Front Door Joined: Posts: 999
    There's no compiled guide but all the info you need is in the last few pages of this thread plus the FB thread (with regards to the FB).

    Kind of a cop out. I'm sure there are very few individuals skilled enough to scavenge through 18 PAGES of posts to find the few relevant posts, and the skills to figure it out. A guide would help us peasants who at least know how to use a soldering iron. But that would be time consuming so it's understandable if you don't want to do it.

    You don't need to scavenge through 18 pages, as I (and others) have said, only the last couple have what you need.
    Pinouts have already been listed multiple times and I've provided pics when available as additional references.
    Anyone is free to attempt to compile all the relevant info into one post and others can review and confirm if accurate...walla, guide.
    aszyd wrote: »
    The only thing I can't make out is how he is getting the +5v to both boards, but I'm sure there is a wire hiding in there somewhere.
    USB connected via the harness to the stock PCB then theres a red wire from the FB connected to VCC pin on stock pcb.
    In the first pic at the bottom with the red wire, you'll notice there's a 2nd red wire coming around the edge of the board. It looks like the 2nd red wire is going down to the bottom right corner along with the jlf harness but its not. Camera angle just happened to catch the orange jlf wire going under the stock PCB at the exact same spot as VCC from FB coming around the edge to the pinout lol

  • asiangrafxasiangrafx Joined: Posts: 203
    does anyone else have problems with the plexi being a little loose and sliding? ive tighten all the screws and it slides a bit still. i picked it up second hand if that makes a difference. its in good condition
  • WaQsWaQs Joined: Posts: 5
    @ChaoticMonk can you turn off the leds when plugged in to a PS4?
  • aszydaszyd Joined: Posts: 505
    edited February 2016
    USB connected via the harness to the stock PCB then theres a red wire from the FB connected to VCC pin on stock pcb.
    In the first pic at the bottom with the red wire, you'll notice there's a 2nd red wire coming around the edge of the board. It looks like the 2nd red wire is going down to the bottom right corner along with the jlf harness but its not. Camera angle just happened to catch the orange jlf wire going under the stock PCB at the exact same spot as VCC from FB coming around the edge to the pinout lol

    Ahh! I see it now. I couldn't tell if that was just extra solder / flux, but since you pointed out the wire, it all makes sense.
    asiangrafx wrote: »
    does anyone else have problems with the plexi being a little loose and sliding? ive tighten all the screws and it slides a bit still. i picked it up second hand if that makes a difference. its in good condition

    I should be receiving the white one today and a Dark Blue variant on Thursday (supposedly new in box). I will let you know.
  • ChaoticMonkChaoticMonk Shut The Front Door Joined: Posts: 999
    WaQs wrote: »
    @ChaoticMonk can you turn off the leds when plugged in to a PS4?

    No, not unless you add an on/off switch/button to do it.
    asiangrafx wrote: »
    does anyone else have problems with the plexi being a little loose and sliding? ive tighten all the screws and it slides a bit still. i picked it up second hand if that makes a difference. its in good condition

    Both of the ones I've worked on didn't have any issue with plexi sliding.
  • vkuwabaravkuwabara Joined: Posts: 361
    The PCB of my white FE is broken, and I bought it recently.
    Is there anything I can do regarding Hori support or where can I find a replaceable PCB for it?
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    vkuwabara wrote: »
    The PCB of my white FE is broken, and I bought it recently.
    Is there anything I can do regarding Hori support or where can I find a replaceable PCB for it?

    How long you had your White FE?
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • vkuwabaravkuwabara Joined: Posts: 361
    Darksakul wrote: »
    vkuwabara wrote: »
    The PCB of my white FE is broken, and I bought it recently.
    Is there anything I can do regarding Hori support or where can I find a replaceable PCB for it?

    How long you had your White FE?

    This one I used it for about 2 weeks.
    It's the second FE that had the same problem
  • zeththedarkmagezeththedarkmage Standing Fierce all day Joined: Posts: 824
    edited February 2016
    OK so for the wiring up the start and select buttons to a ps360+ I need 5v, ground, start and select. Which color wires go where? I have orange for ground and Grey for guide but there are still green, yellow, black, white, and an additional orange.

    Apparently I was looking at the wrong side. I for some reason thought that the start and select buttons were on the same side as the guide but they are on the other side and there are a lot more wires coming from there. @Gummo @Darksakul
    Post edited by zeththedarkmage on
    DLC 8/25/07
    JMS 2/07/09

    "Only the good die young..."
  • ChaoticMonkChaoticMonk Shut The Front Door Joined: Posts: 999
    edited February 2016
    OK so for the wiring up the start and select buttons to a ps360+ I need 5v, ground, start and select. Which color wires go where? I have orange for ground and Grey for guide but there are still green, yellow, black, white, and an additional orange.

    Apparently I was looking at the wrong side. I for some reason thought that the start and select buttons were on the same side as the guide but they are on the other side and there are a lot more wires coming from there. @Gummo @Darksakul

    This is going off memory so please double check with a multimeter or something (specially #3 & #4).

    You should have 4 sets of cables coming out of the 3 spots on the touchpanel side:
    1. 3 (black white and purple) are for the side LED strip. White = ground, black = blue LEDs, purple = Red LEDs. Example, if you want them to light up in blue, you connect VCC with 100ohm resistor to the black wire.
    2. 6 (red, white, black, yellow, green, orange) are for the touchpanel. Orange = gnd, Green = start, yellow = select and red = 5v vcc. The rest you don't need.
    3. 7 (grey, orange, green, yellow, black, white, red) are for the touchpanel LEDs. White = VCC with 100ohm resistor, red = gnd (@shadowsoldier89 thanks for confirming :))
    4. 10 (colors don't matter since you won't be using this) are for the button reassignment functions which you can't take advantage of so ignore all of these.


    Post edited by ChaoticMonk on
  • zeththedarkmagezeththedarkmage Standing Fierce all day Joined: Posts: 824
    OK so for the wiring up the start and select buttons to a ps360+ I need 5v, ground, start and select. Which color wires go where? I have orange for ground and Grey for guide but there are still green, yellow, black, white, and an additional orange.

    Apparently I was looking at the wrong side. I for some reason thought that the start and select buttons were on the same side as the guide but they are on the other side and there are a lot more wires coming from there. @Gummo @Darksakul

    This is going off memory so please double check with a multimeter or something (specially #3 & #4).

    You should have 4 sets of cables coming out of the 3 spots on the touchpanel side:
    1. 3 (black white and purple) are for the side LED strip. White = ground, black = blue LEDs, purple = Red LEDs. Example, if you want them to light up in blue, you connect VCC with 100ohm resistor to the black wire.
    2. 6 (red, white, black, yellow, green, orange) are for the touchpanel. Orange = gnd, Green = start, yellow = select and red = 5v vcc. The rest you don't need.
    3. 7 (grey, orange, green, yellow, black, white, red) are for the touchpanel LEDs. White = VCC with 100ohm resistor, red or black = gnd (don't remember which it was)
    4. 10 (colors don't matter since you won't be using this) are for the button reassignment functions which you can't take advantage of so ignore all of these.


    Awesome! I'm not planning on wiring up the LEDs for now so this should be enough to get start and select working. Thank ya much!
    DLC 8/25/07
    JMS 2/07/09

    "Only the good die young..."
  • shadowsoldier89shadowsoldier89 Joined: Posts: 8
    so I'm starting the mod on a fighting edge and seem to have most of the info I need. One thing im wondering though is about the touch panel buttons

    @ChaoticMonk mentioned that Red, White, Black, Yellow, Green, and orange are from the touchpad button functionality. What I'm trying to figure out is that one of those other two wires he didnt describe is the config button and tournament mode button? If so is it possible I could wire up Start to start, select to touchpad, and tournament button to share?

    I can probably test this as Im doing it but thought I would ask first

    My other question is about the LEDs for the side strips. If I wire those to the player outs, can I skip the resistors on those lines? if thats the case I wouldnt mind setting the Blue lights to player one and red lights to player 2, and is it ok to run both the left and right side strips to the same player out on the board? This is one thing Id definitely like an answer on though if someone is able, since I dont want to blow out the LEDs, I know I at least need to solder in a resister for the LEDs for the touchpad.

    This is the brook im using, not the universal: http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/fgc-console-joystick/1660-brook-ps3ps4-fighting-board-with-paradise-breakout-.html

    thanks in advance anyone that can help.
  • ChaoticMonkChaoticMonk Shut The Front Door Joined: Posts: 999
    @ChaoticMonk mentioned that Red, White, Black, Yellow, Green, and orange are from the touchpad button functionality. What I'm trying to figure out is that one of those other two wires he didnt describe is the config button and tournament mode button? If so is it possible I could wire up Start to start, select to touchpad, and tournament button to share?
    Didn't think to try it but don't see why not. Test and see :) I believe the black one is tournament and white is config.
    My other question is about the LEDs for the side strips. If I wire those to the player outs, can I skip the resistors on those lines?
    Yes, the player LED points on the board already have resistors in place
    if thats the case I wouldnt mind setting the Blue lights to player one and red lights to player 2, and is it ok to run both the left and right side strips to the same player out on the board?
    Yes, you can.

    My advice would be to use the existing pcb as a host and connect the brook to it like I did here. This lets the stock pcb manage the LEDs and touchpanel for you so no need to worry about resistors and such.
  • shadowsoldier89shadowsoldier89 Joined: Posts: 8
    @ChaoticMonk mentioned that Red, White, Black, Yellow, Green, and orange are from the touchpad button functionality. What I'm trying to figure out is that one of those other two wires he didnt describe is the config button and tournament mode button? If so is it possible I could wire up Start to start, select to touchpad, and tournament button to share?
    Didn't think to try it but don't see why not. Test and see :) I believe the black one is tournament and white is config.
    My other question is about the LEDs for the side strips. If I wire those to the player outs, can I skip the resistors on those lines?
    Yes, the player LED points on the board already have resistors in place
    if thats the case I wouldnt mind setting the Blue lights to player one and red lights to player 2, and is it ok to run both the left and right side strips to the same player out on the board?
    Yes, you can.

    My advice would be to use the existing pcb as a host and connect the brook to it like I did here. This lets the stock pcb manage the LEDs and touchpanel for you so no need to worry about resistors and such.
    I started experimenting and couldnt get the player LEDs working with the brook board. I tore out the host board. However I was pleased to get the Config button wired to Select and was using it was taking screenshots on PS4 with it no problem. You were right that White is config. I went with config over tournament since config is on the same LED band as start and select, tournament is on its own due to the Red/Blue swap it does normally.

    Here is my final build
    g3iHEas.jpg

  • zeththedarkmagezeththedarkmage Standing Fierce all day Joined: Posts: 824
    edited February 2016
    @ChaoticMonk I tried as you described but now when I plug the stick in nothing is working. Do I maybe have ground and vcc mixed up? I can't imagine plugging something in would make the whole thing stop working.

    I tried swapping the red and orange wires to see if I had the vcc and ground mixed up but when I plugged it in nothing worked. When I disconnected all four wires (green,yellow,red,orange) the stick works fine.

    Not sure what to do here.
    Post edited by zeththedarkmage on
    DLC 8/25/07
    JMS 2/07/09

    "Only the good die young..."
  • shadowsoldier89shadowsoldier89 Joined: Posts: 8
    @ChaoticMonk I tried as you described but now when I plug the stick in nothing is working. Do I maybe have ground and vcc mixed up? I can't imagine plugging something in would make the whole thing stop working.

    I tried swapping the red and orange wires to see if I had the vcc and ground mixed up but when I plugged it in nothing worked. When I disconnected all four wires (green,yellow,red,orange) the stick works fine.

    Not sure what to do here.

    the only thing I remember right now about chaotic's post is that red is most definitely ground, he was unsure between red and black for set number 3

    for set number 2, be sure you arent mixing up the red and orange, orange is the ground
  • zeththedarkmagezeththedarkmage Standing Fierce all day Joined: Posts: 824
    snip

    I wired the orange to ground, the red to vcc the green to start and the yellow to select but when I plugged it in nothing worked. This was also the 360 version.
    DLC 8/25/07
    JMS 2/07/09

    "Only the good die young..."
  • shadowsoldier89shadowsoldier89 Joined: Posts: 8
    snip

    I wired the orange to ground, the red to vcc the green to start and the yellow to select but when I plugged it in nothing worked. This was also the 360 version.

    the colors on the 360 one could be flipped around
  • zeththedarkmagezeththedarkmage Standing Fierce all day Joined: Posts: 824
    snip

    I wired the orange to ground, the red to vcc the green to start and the yellow to select but when I plugged it in nothing worked. This was also the 360 version.

    the colors on the 360 one could be flipped around

    What's the best way to test this? I think I have a multimeter but I don't know what to check for with each wire.
    DLC 8/25/07
    JMS 2/07/09

    "Only the good die young..."
  • zeththedarkmagezeththedarkmage Standing Fierce all day Joined: Posts: 824
    Sorry for the double post. @ChaoticMonk @Gummo how do I wire up the start select ground and 5v to a ps360+ in a x360 fighting edge that I already removed the PCB from? I modded my friend's stick and everything is working except for start and select. I cut and stripped the wires from the 6 wire harness coming from the touch panel and plugged the red wire into vcc, the orange wire into gnd, the green into start, and the select into yellow. When I plugged the stick in, it didn't work at all. I opened it up and swapped the orange wire to vcc and the red wire to gnd and plugged it back in and again nothing worked. I opened it and detached all four wires, orange, red, green, and yellow and the board works fine for joystick, buttons, and home. My friend took his stick home with him so I don't have it on hand to tinker with and I don't want to mess his stick up by blowing something by wiring it to the wrong spot. I just want to get his start and select working for him.
    DLC 8/25/07
    JMS 2/07/09

    "Only the good die young..."
  • ChaoticMonkChaoticMonk Shut The Front Door Joined: Posts: 999
    edited March 2016
    Sorry for the double post. @ChaoticMonk @Gummo how do I wire up the start select ground and 5v to a ps360+ in a x360 fighting edge that I already removed the PCB from? I modded my friend's stick and everything is working except for start and select. I cut and stripped the wires from the 6 wire harness coming from the touch panel and plugged the red wire into vcc, the orange wire into gnd, the green into start, and the select into yellow. When I plugged the stick in, it didn't work at all. I opened it up and swapped the orange wire to vcc and the red wire to gnd and plugged it back in and again nothing worked. I opened it and detached all four wires, orange, red, green, and yellow and the board works fine for joystick, buttons, and home. My friend took his stick home with him so I don't have it on hand to tinker with and I don't want to mess his stick up by blowing something by wiring it to the wrong spot. I just want to get his start and select working for him.

    I haven't had the pleasure of working on a 360 one yet, just PS3 ones :(
    Based on the images in the thread, red is vcc and orange is gnd. So the question is, which is start/select.
    Again, based on the images it still looks like green is start and yellow is select but there's obviously something else at play otherwise Gummo would've have said to connect to the transistor legs
    Gummo wrote: »
    360:
    This ones a little more tricky to solder to. Select and start are wired to the transistor leg. 5v is wired to the same two spots in red.
    360top.jpg

  • zeththedarkmagezeththedarkmage Standing Fierce all day Joined: Posts: 824
    @ChaoticMonk @Gummo I luckily found the wire harness connector and reattached it to the PCB, maybe this will help.

    a8QaR2E.jpg
    zTawgrn.jpg
    eDiwzoz.jpg
    DLC 8/25/07
    JMS 2/07/09

    "Only the good die young..."
  • VuhadzuVuhadzu Joined: Posts: 31
    Has anybody attempted to convert a Fighting Edge into a hitbox? It seems like the surface area of an FE would be perfect for it.
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    Vuhadzu wrote: »
    Has anybody attempted to convert a Fighting Edge into a hitbox? It seems like the surface area of an FE would be perfect for it.

    Possible yes, likely no.
    I yet to see anyone produce a replacement top panel for the fighting edge.

    You have to get the metal and plexy replacement panels made custom for your mod.

    Not many people have the means to cut sheet metal.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • TuckTuck Large Member Joined: Posts: 346
    Anyone heard any updates on a possible FE4? It's almost June... :(
    I wouldn't let you sleep in my room if you were growing on my ass.
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    FE4 + Brook UFB=heaven. If the touch panel would work of course.

    The dream.
  • TaikiTaiki OH HO HOHOHOHOHO Joined: Posts: 1,029 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    Tuck wrote: »
    Anyone heard any updates on a possible FE4? It's almost June... :(

    Last piece of news we had about the FE4 was that it was under "intense development."

    Which, I'm not sure where people were getting "June" out of that from.
  • PerkolatorPerkolator sernic berm Joined: Posts: 142
    as long as we get one i'd be happy
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    Taiki wrote: »
    Tuck wrote: »
    Anyone heard any updates on a possible FE4? It's almost June... :(

    Last piece of news we had about the FE4 was that it was under "intense development."

    Which, I'm not sure where people were getting "June" out of that from.

    I think he meant "almost June" as June is next month.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • mR_CaESaRmR_CaESaR Joined: Posts: 734
    I'd be pretty keen for an updated version.

    I've thought about getting a PS3 version and modding it with a UFB, but the price I've seen them on eBay and to get to me delivered to Australia is a bit too rich for me, plus the level of effort to mod it - I might just wait patiently :)
  • Onizuka1Onizuka1 THE TAR PIT CLUB Joined: Posts: 137
    edited May 2016
    Anyone have a digital copy of the FE board layout they've used for custom artwork or whatnot? I'm working on a couple cabs and I want to use the Fighting Edge layout for my button/joystick cut outs.


    Edit ; Found it - Hori Fighting Edge Template by Syn13 AKA SynWerks - http://www.mediafire.com/?avbn2dbpw9b3h7b
    Post edited by Onizuka1 on
    Crash! Into the rolling morning~ Flash! I'm in the coolest driver's high~
  • TaikiTaiki OH HO HOHOHOHOHO Joined: Posts: 1,029 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Taiki wrote: »
    Tuck wrote: »
    Anyone heard any updates on a possible FE4? It's almost June... :(

    Last piece of news we had about the FE4 was that it was under "intense development."

    Which, I'm not sure where people were getting "June" out of that from.

    I think he meant "almost June" as June is next month.

    One page back, someone said that the FE4 was coming "In June." The Game Watch article said, "Intense development" and I haven't seen any other news other than that. The poster also gave no reference for it either. I wouldn't be surprised if we saw an announcement at Evo though.
  • mR_CaESaRmR_CaESaR Joined: Posts: 734
    I am seriously eyeing out a white 360 but would like to put a Brook UFB on it.

    I am slightly confused with the requirements to get the touch panel and LEDs to work.. (I will have to re-read the past few pages over and over)

    Having never seen a FE IRL, from what I've seen online, the touch panel consists of a start/select/tournament button (lock?) and a configuration button (change on the fly), can the tournament and configuration button be used as a turbo and PS4 TP_KEY?

    Does the original PCB need to be used as a pass through PCB to get the LEDs and touchpanel to work? Logically, I'm thinking the touch panel would have power/ground, 4 active wires?

    Having never really worked with LEDs much before, I'm not really sure exactly what is required, I've done a lot of piggy backing (TE's player LEDs to the brook UFB Player LEDs - nothing special really, it's just another point to solder, no resistors or anything involved). Soldering is no drama (although that transistor leg may be a little challenging)

    I don't think I came across it on the thread, but does anyone have a 360 FE with a Brook UFB successfully using the touchpad buttons and side LEDs?

    Alternatively, I think I may just get a brook 360 to PS4 converter to save all the hassle hahah
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    mR_CaESaR wrote: »
    I don't think I came across it on the thread, but does anyone have a 360 FE with a Brook UFB successfully using the touchpad buttons and side LEDs?
    There are people who done this, and there a guide somewhere on the forums showing you how to wire up the touch pad.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • mR_CaESaRmR_CaESaR Joined: Posts: 734
    Darksakul wrote: »
    mR_CaESaR wrote: »
    I don't think I came across it on the thread, but does anyone have a 360 FE with a Brook UFB successfully using the touchpad buttons and side LEDs?
    There are people who done this, and there a guide somewhere on the forums showing you how to wire up the touch pad.

    Yeah I think I've read the last few pages over 5 times to try and wrap my head around the resistors and what not. I'll see how I go once I have a FE in my possession. It's hard to read about something I don't physically have and I can't check with a meter
  • EvenMorePerfectEvenMorePerfect Nine Joined: Posts: 9
    So, my USB cord is beginning to go. Is it an easy fix or not? Also, is there a video guide or something?
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    edited June 2016
    Open up the stick and determine if the USB cable is soldered on or if it uses a JST connector, and the size of the connector, if applicable.

    If it's standard, something like this 10 foot cable will work without soldering.

    http://arcadeshock.com/products/qanba-replacement-usb-cable-for-q2-q4-controllers

    While the cord is designed to mount in the Q4's door compartment (and if the JST size is compatible, you would still have to deal with the built in plastic stop in this cable, which is admittedly maybe just a minor annoyance, and might even come in useful!), this cable will even work on things like the keyboard PCB JST port for a Ducky Shine keyboard, for instance (the ducky's Breakout board usually attaches to this connector first).

    If searching google for third party JST to USB A cables (e.g. cables that don't have the middle plastic stop piece that the Qanba cables used to secure the cable to the compartment), take care of the size of the cable; some are made for mice, which have much smaller JST connectors, even though the pinouts are the same.
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