The Sanwa and Seimitsu FAQ

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Comments

  • nkainenkaine Joined: Posts: 12
    Seimitsu LS-40-01 should install fine in a Madcatz Tournament Edition.

    The 5-pin connector just has to be flipped around IIRC.

    Which of these sticks would you choose and why?
    Seimitsu-32-01
    Seimitsu 40-01

    I'm undecided

    ¿Do both have the same quality of components?
    :china:
  • KYO84KYO84 Riddle Solver Joined: Posts: 1,230
    I have a Seimitsu LS-32-01 and was wondering if it was normal for it to "pop up" when pressed firmly against the walls of the gate?
    "Better that we die on our feet than live on our knees!" Magneto
  • The_ThirdThe_Third Poverty Gamer Joined: Posts: 1,004
    Yes that it normal.
  • ExecutorImperiousExecutorImperious Joined: Posts: 45
    I noticed both companies have square buttons, supposedly for mahjong games. Do they act like the respective company's other pushbuttons? As one of those folks who likes to rest their fingers on the buttons, it would be a plus if I knew for certain which I'd have less chance of accidentally activating.
  • UNW4NT3DUNW4NT3D Joined: Posts: 417
    I noticed both companies have square buttons, supposedly for mahjong games. Do they act like the respective company's other pushbuttons? As one of those folks who likes to rest their fingers on the buttons, it would be a plus if I knew for certain which I'd have less chance of accidentally activating.

    Just use seimitsu buttons instead of sanwa, theyre not as sensitive and should do fine for resting your fingers on. I used to have that problem with sanwa buttons and changing to seimitsu worked wonders. Years later I can now use either brand without problem

    I have a question. Will seimitsu's PS-14-DN-K (24mm version of the KN) take sanwa switches? The PS-14-DN-C buttons I have already take them just fine I'm just wondering (hoping) if the DN-K will also.
  • LJAFXLJAFX Standing-by to stand-by Joined: Posts: 43
    Just use seimitsu buttons instead of sanwa, theyre not as sensitive and should do fine for resting your fingers on. I used to have that problem with sanwa buttons and changing to seimitsu worked wonders. Years later I can now use either brand without problem

    I have a question. Will seimitsu's PS-14-DN-K (24mm version of the KN) take sanwa switches? The PS-14-DN-C buttons I have already take them just fine I'm just wondering (hoping) if the DN-K will also.

    Yes. All 24mm, PS15, PS14K and PS14P's use that smaller size seimitsu microswitch.
    Eye-crometer > micrometer

    Deep Background Smoke Specialist.
  • pennylanepennylane Joined: Posts: 380
    Random question...

    Do Sanwa OBSF-30 and Seimitsu PS-14-G look identical from the outside (besides color differences?).

    I'm just wondering if people can recognize Sanwa vs. Seimitsu on sight.
    Bay Area / USF4, SFV / PSN: Rufus_Gunderson
  • FunkyPFunkyP Chicks with Guns Joined: Posts: 1,545
    PS-14-G's have flat plungers, its pretty easy to tell right away.
  • GeorgeCGeorgeC Joined: Posts: 2,850
    Which of these sticks would you choose and why?
    Seimitsu-32-01
    Seimitsu 40-01

    I'm undecided

    ¿Do both have the same quality of components?
    :china:


    There's no right or wrong as far as components are concerned.... It's a matter of what YOU'RE comfortable playing with.

    I can give you an opinion, but that's all it is. Opinions are NOT fact -- a subtle distinction lost on at least 60% of the people on SRK. I can't tell you to play with a joystick because "I think" it's better. Use the components that are comfortable for you.

    The quality of the JLF's and Seimitsus are equal. Both brands will last a long time as long as you don't A) throw joysticks outside of a 10th story window or B) loan joysticks to a frat brother who decides to have a kegger that weekend. There are more stories of joysticks being destroyed by acquaintance assholes who don't take care of anything not nailed to the floor than there are of joysticks breaking "for no reason at all."

    Basically, the LS-40-01 is a smaller version of the LS-32-01 but that doesn't tell the entire story. The -40-01 uses the same mounting plates, spring, and ball handles as the LS-32. All other particulars are different. The most noticeable difference in construction besides the more compact size is slightly more plastic useage in the LS-40-01 but it's generally the same high standard of construction as the LS-32-01.

    That said, some advantages of the LS-40-01 over the LS-32-01 ==>
    A) the LS-40-01 does NOT pop when you hit the gate hard like the LS-32-01 does occasionally;
    B) it takes substantially less effort to input movement into an LS-40-01 than it does for the LS-32-01, JLF, and most other joysticks... In other words, the LS-40-01 is a "tighter-feeling" joystick. This also makes the LS-40 more difficult for some people to use because they have to get used to using less muscle when playing with the joystick. I could only imagine that some people would find the LS-56 a worse joystick to play with than the LS-40 because it takes sensitivity to a higher level;
    C) Word around Neo Geo fighting game fan circles is that the LS-40 series was in fact the joystick used on SNK Neo Geo cabinets in the 1990s and was the basis for the control column of the old Neo Geo AES joysticks. There are in fact a number of older pre-PS1 joysticks that DID use LS-40 knock-offs such as certain production series of the Capcom SNES/Genesis era Capcom Power Fighter joystick made for the home releases of SF II. There is also at least one later console generation release Ascii joystick that has a joystick very similar (but still a knock-off) to the LS-40;
    D) You DO NOT have to custom make or modify a JLF shaft cover for the LS-40 series. The LS-40 comes with its own shaft cover -- the same shaft cover used for the LS-55 and LS-56 series joysticks;
    E) The LS-40 uses an E-clip to hold the assembly together; the LS-32-01 is the only Japanese joystick I'm aware of that's held together by a C-clip. That to my mind is the single worst construction feature of the LS-32 besides the fact that you have really have to remove the PCB of an LS-32 before you can install the mounting plate onto most joystick faceplates.

    I happen to like both the LS-32-01 and LS-40-01 and have plans to move my joystick "fleet" to a mix of 50/50 -- half LS-32-01, half LS-40-01.

    On days when I'm relaxed, I like the LS-40-01 better. On days when I feel cramped or can't relax, the LS-32-01 is a better joystick to play with.

    Experimentation-wise, I'd leave the LS-40-01 alone. I've tried tightening the tension by installing another LS-32 spring (stock LS-40 and LS-32 series use the same spring) but it gets TOO tight quickly. You can get away with a bit more spring tension experimentation on the LS-32 but both are fine in stock condition... They are the only joysticks that I've learned to be comfortable playing with square gates. I never got used to the looseness of the JLF -- even with spring mods it's loose and has huge throw -- and I don't care to use that joystick on most pre-SF IV fighting games.

    Not as many people here play with LS-40's because they're not stocked as well as the LS-32 and JLF are at arcade parts stores. Also, the vast majority of pre-made joysticks people buy -- well over 75% -- come with JLF's installed. The very few that are pre-built with Seimitsu parts such as the ultra-limited HRAP SE joysticks, inevitably come with LS-32's. Installing Seimitsu parts, let alone an LS-40, into a pre-made joystick cab (Hori or Mad Catz) is an expense well over half the people on SRK will probably never buy into. Modding is an expensive hobby and most are content or get used to what they pay for at stores...
  • Negative-Zer0Negative-Zer0 Joined: Posts: 9,324
    I am thinking about modding My Mayflash with Semitsu parts. I just need to know which Joystick is best for either Sanwa, Semitsu, or any other company. I like a Joystick with a bit of resistance, like the old p2 (not p1) CvS2 sticks at the old CTF.
    “I was trying to take the easy way out by running away from everything. No matter the pain, I will keep living. So when I die, I'll feel I did the best I could.” - Koala
  • GeorgeCGeorgeC Joined: Posts: 2,850
    Seimitsu joysticks generally have more resistance than the Sanwa JLF...

    I think it has as much to do with the fact that they have gated microswitches on them as it does the heavier coil springs.

    The gates on the microswitches in addition to the slightly greater spring resistance is what eventually turned me towards the Seimitsu line of joysticks. (I prefer Sanwa pushbuttons for their greater sensitivity, though. There are a couple of very decent Seimitsu pushbuttons and at least 2/3 of the line is cross-compatible switch-wise with the Sanwa OBSX-X line of pushbuttons.)

    The gated microswitches is what has made it easier for me to use square gates on the Seimitsus as well as enjoy playing pre-SFIV fighters with joysticks. The greater looseness and greater throw on the JLF has made it very difficult for me to try to adjust playing older Capcom CPS-2 fighters (Darkstalkers, SF Alpha, the Marvel games, etc.) with that joystick -- square gate or octogate installed.

    By contrast, the LS-32-01 and LS-40-01 have been easier to play with on both polygon fighters and the old 2D/sprite-based fighters. The LS-40 is allegedly the same joystick used in the SNK Neo Geo cabinets (Samurai Shodown, Fatal Fury, King of Fighters), too.

    There was nothing I found that I could reasonably do to make the JLF a better joystick for me and I've read all the mods and tried a few. Unless you're willing to rebuild the actuator and change about a half-dozen other things, throw will always be an issue with that joystick.

    On the other hand, I've never been crazy about having an ultra-hard resistance joystick, either. The LS-32/LS-40's seem to have the right amount of resistance for the majority of games I play. The -32 in particular is also pretty darn good for 2-D shooters, platform games like Earthworm Jim, and Pac-Man (with the subguide four-way restrictor gate).

    All joysticks have their quirks and things most of us don't like about them. You just have to try and experiment and find out what's most comfortable for you.

    This is by no means the last authority on the subject, and some of us have questions about its conclusions, but this link to a SlagCoin FAQ is as good a beginning point for making decisions about parts without buying everything in sight and going broke I guess... ==> Joystick Controller - Joystick and Button Attributes and Brand Parts
  • RoboKrikitRoboKrikit nuclear Joined: Posts: 1,943
    I am thinking about modding My Mayflash with Semitsu parts. I just need to know which Joystick is best for either Sanwa, Semitsu, or any other company. I like a Joystick with a bit of resistance, like the old p2 (not p1) CvS2 sticks at the old CTF.

    Try sending Cen a PM to see if he remembers which kind of stick that was.
  • Negative-Zer0Negative-Zer0 Joined: Posts: 9,324
    Seimitsu joysticks generally have more resistance than the Sanwa JLF...

    I think it has as much to do with the fact that they have gated microswitches on them as it does the heavier coil springs.

    The gates on the microswitches in addition to the slightly greater spring resistance is what eventually turned me towards the Seimitsu line of joysticks. (I prefer Sanwa pushbuttons for their greater sensitivity, though. There are a couple of very decent Seimitsu pushbuttons and at least 2/3 of the line is cross-compatible switch-wise with the Sanwa OBSX-X line of pushbuttons.)

    The gated microswitches is what has made it easier for me to use square gates on the Seimitsus as well as enjoy playing pre-SFIV fighters with joysticks. The greater looseness and greater throw on the JLF has made it very difficult for me to try to adjust playing older Capcom CPS-2 fighters (Darkstalkers, SF Alpha, the Marvel games, etc.) with that joystick -- square gate or octogate installed.

    By contrast, the LS-32-01 and LS-40-01 have been easier to play with on both polygon fighters and the old 2D/sprite-based fighters. The LS-40 is allegedly the same joystick used in the SNK Neo Geo cabinets (Samurai Shodown, Fatal Fury, King of Fighters), too.

    There was nothing I found that I could reasonably do to make the JLF a better joystick for me and I've read all the mods and tried a few. Unless you're willing to rebuild the actuator and change about a half-dozen other things, throw will always be an issue with that joystick.

    On the other hand, I've never been crazy about having an ultra-hard resistance joystick, either. The LS-32/LS-40's seem to have the right amount of resistance for the majority of games I play. The -32 in particular is also pretty darn good for 2-D shooters, platform games like Earthworm Jim, and Pac-Man (with the subguide four-way restrictor gate).

    All joysticks have their quirks and things most of us don't like about them. You just have to try and experiment and find out what's most comfortable for you.

    This is by no means the last authority on the subject, and some of us have questions about its conclusions, but this link to a SlagCoin FAQ is as good a beginning point for making decisions about parts without buying everything in sight and going broke I guess... ==> Joystick Controller - Joystick and Button Attributes and Brand Parts

    Thank you, ordering now.
    “I was trying to take the easy way out by running away from everything. No matter the pain, I will keep living. So when I die, I'll feel I did the best I could.” - Koala
  • kubebotkubebot Large Member Joined: Posts: 1,269
    @GeorgeC - Have you ever tried a JLF with cherry switches + single ls-55 spring? It engages about the same as LS-32/40. I really like the feel, because you don't get alot of tension from the microswitch but rather the spring. I'm also a P360 lover so I'm not too into feeling the micro switch like a lot Semi lovers are. Cherries are damn near silent in a solid case, not a plus for everyone. Only people with: wifes;babies and input hiders :P
  • kubebotkubebot Large Member Joined: Posts: 1,269
    Could I swap the following:
    • Seimitsu PS-14-KN plungers into Seimitsu PS-14-K bodies using Sanwa microswitches SW-68s?
    • Sanwa plungers in Seimitsu PS-14-DNs bodies?
    • Sanwa SW-68s in Seimitsu PS-14-DNs?

    Also has anyone compared the feel of Seimitsu PS-14-Ks using SW-68s to Seimitsu PS-14-KN using Sanwa RG-SGs? I'd just buy them and try them myself like I normally would, but it wouldn't be cheap. RG-SGs go for $5 a piece from Aki.
  • jdm714jdm714 Blue Blue Glass Moon Joined: Posts: 12,828
    No.
    Unless you also swap the Plunger Insert.

    Probably not fit.

    Yes.
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  • bolt9289bolt9289 Joined: Posts: 432
    I have question more geared toward arcade cabinets.

    Why did the japanese arcade industry switch to LS-32 unfriendly panels?
    Like why did they start making JLF-only panels?
    Is it really that expensive to make + shaped mounting plates? (similar to the HRAP2)

    I find it really weird that all of sudden japanese arcades started using JLFs exclusively.
    Like most Net city panels will only fit a JLF or something similar.

    What exactly made the JLF better than the LS-32 to arcade operators?
    Did it have a longer operating life or something?


    I am biased towards the Seimitsu LS-32, but I didn't start with it.
    I had a HRAP1 with a JLF that a played with for a few months.
    But as soon as I played with a LS-32, it felt so much better. There is some stuff I can do on a LS-32 that I cannot do a JLF.
    For example, with Hugo, I can do crouch block into hand clap(hcb+p). I cannot do this on a JLF.
    It disappoints me that the JLF is favored more nowadays.
    Especially considering that it's more expensive than a LS-32.
  • KabaLKabaL My yomi is better Joined: Posts: 1,073
    What would be a safe minimum clearance for a LS-32? I need the case to be very slim.

    Im planning to install it this way:

    [IMG][/img]Rfh2b.png

    I hope that crappy paint effort of a diagram is clear.

    Thank you in advance.
    ~~Where in the world is Opips2 ??~~
  • KabaLKabaL My yomi is better Joined: Posts: 1,073
    Any help? Please?
    ~~Where in the world is Opips2 ??~~
  • FunkyPFunkyP Chicks with Guns Joined: Posts: 1,545
    On an LS-32 I've had it in a 2" case, you might get away with a 1.75" case if you have a very thin bottom panel, i wouldn't recommend any less than that.
  • BIGBAGGABIGBAGGA Joined: Posts: 286
    I have a LS-56 and I find the spring too tight, is there a spring I can buy that fits in the LS-56 ? I was hoping it would be the same size as a JLF but its not. I really like the LS-56 better than a JLF but I want it a tad softer.
    Beware of the invasion of the flowchart street fighters! Its not just ken anymore
  • Cheap_ScrubCheap_Scrub Random Generic Bullshit Joined: Posts: 172
    Any help? Please?

    For the smaller red line in your diagram I think you need about 4.2cm or roughly 1 and 5/8ths of an inch to comfortably squeeze an LS-32 in there. To actually move it about without it grinding against the bottom, I couldn't tell you. LS-32 has the reputation of a small stick, but if slim is the thing you're really after, a JLF requires significantly less depth below the panel.



    I have a question myself though, does anyone know if there are officially available color codes for Seimitsu buttons? I'm putting together a template and having a color code for the blues would really help make it look sharp.
  • GeorgeCGeorgeC Joined: Posts: 2,850
    I have question more geared toward arcade cabinets.

    Why did the japanese arcade industry switch to LS-32 unfriendly panels?


    Didn't bother quoting the rest of the original post... since the answer is going to be the same for all the questions.

    It boils down to Sanwa is more popular in Japan.
    I don't know why --- it's just been that way for at least 10years. Both companies seem to make parts that are equally durable unless Japanese arcades report differently. Most joystick customizers that have modded or built more than a few joysticks have used parts from both companies.

    Up through sometime in the early 1990s, according to other people, Seimitsu was more popular, then they got eclipsed by Sanwa.

    Seimitsu's obviously still in business and once in a while a bone is thrown to Seimitsu fans and an actual Seimitsu-based joystick gets made -- usually a very limited run edition of a few hundred examples using an HRAP case. They get horrendously expensive quickly! Thank Hori for at least making the HRAP SA faceplates universal mounts. There are more of those and Mad Catz TE's in particular that have had Sanwa parts swapped for Seimitsu parts than there have been official Hori Seimitsu-based joysticks produced.

    Still, nobody seems to make joysticks that are all Seimitsu parts as a regular production series. That seems to be left up to the end-user and it's not appealing to most people to have to replace all those parts at a loss... Most customizers will NOT replace both the joystick and buttons. A lot of people here favor replacing either the joystick or the buttons but usually not both since it's hard to trade parts or sell them unless they're brand new, marked down, and specific colors. Also, many people prefer keeping either the JLF or Sanwa buttons. Nobody generally likes having to sell things at a loss or find a trader. Most new people are fine with the OEM equipment in their joysticks
  • GodstarGodstar Black Swordsman Joined: Posts: 22
    Hello, I'm working on a Agetec Dreamcast "green goblin" stick I'm fitting out with a bunch of 30mm Sanwa buttons and and a JLF stick, and just had some quick questions on some basic things I'm looking for.

    First question. The button wiring uses 3 pin connectors, and it seems an easy way to fasten the buttons to the wires, does anyone happen to know what connectors the buttons use? Currently they're using the 3 pin, but that's nowhere near wide enough. Is it possible to use an 8 pin connector? I'm assuming if I go this route I'll need molex pins. Would it just be easier to use the .110" fastons? They seem like they'd fall off easier.

    Second question. I'm looking for some small 3mmx10mm nuts/bolts/washers that would fit the Sanwa stick. I've got the chassis all ready to go, but can't find these and was wondering if anyone could tell me if these are typically available at hardware stores, or if they're available someplace online?

    This is my first mod stick and I'm looking to get some experience under my belt before attempting anything harder, though it seems this is a rather harder project than I had anticipated.
  • EvilSamuraiEvilSamurai Joined: Posts: 2,659
    Sanwa buttons were always the standard. Seimitsu buttons are only generally used when they come stock with control panels. When the stock ones break, they are replaced with Sanwas.

    Seimitsu joysticks, the LS-32 in particular, used to be the standard for everything (since its introduction in the 80s) prior to Sanwa introducing the JLF being introduced in the mid 90s. The JLF gradually became the standard fighting game joystick over the years. The LS-32 is still standard for everything else that doesn't use specialty controls such as light guns, steering wheels, and flight sticks. The other Seimitsu joysticks are generally restricted to certain types of cabinets: LS-33 for very small cabs, LS-40 for Neo-Geo, LS-30 for games that require a rotary joystick, LS-56 is an attempt at a JLF clone that was used in late 90s Sega cabs, LS-55 is a larger form factor LS-33 but the dynamics are completely different as it is scaled up. I have no idea what the LS-55 was originally developed for.

    The smaller form factor of the Neo-Geo AES stick demanded a smaller joystick (the LS-33 was not around then) so it used a custom non-rotary LS-30 that felt closer to an LS-32 than the LS-40 used in actual Neo-Geo cabinets. The buttons were custom Seimitsu ones that didn't feel that great.

    Seimitsu is generally considered to use slightly lower quality materials than Sanwa but both are still very good, slightly better than Industrias Lorenzo. Don't even mention Happ. They are unworthy of comparison to the other arcade equipment companies and actually now sell Chinese knockoffs of the IL products they used to sell (they bought joysticks in kit form from IL and sold them with lower grades of Cherry microswitches than those IL included with them themselves).

    LS-32 and JLF:
    - Both have some design issues. The four way mode on the JLF simply doesn't work and the LS-32 jumps in it's pivot. The JLF also isn't a universal joystick and sucks for everything but fighters so why anyone would want to use its 4-way mode is beyond me.
    - LS-32 gate is weak. It gradually wears down. It works in four way mode though though the insert for four-way impedes 8-way movement and should be taken off for 8way, unless you care to wear it down too (I gather it slows the rate that the main gate wears down). The JLF has little wear.
    - JLF pivot wears down faster than the jumpy LS-32 pivot.

    Both sticks are about equal for fighters but get the LS-32 if you want to play other genres of games such as shmups, puzzlers, and platformers.
    Hello, I'm working on a Agetec Dreamcast "green goblin" stick I'm fitting out with a bunch of 30mm Sanwa buttons and and a JLF stick, and just had some quick questions on some basic things I'm looking for. SNIP

    Word of warning: You can't mount the JLF at the proper height in the Green Goblin without some modifications.
  • ixusixus Joined: Posts: 87
    Sanwa buttons were always the standard. Seimitsu buttons are only generally used when they come stock with control panels. When the stock ones break, they are replaced with Sanwas.

    Seimitsu joysticks, the LS-32 in particular, used to be the standard for everything (since its introduction in the 80s) prior to Sanwa introducing the JLF being introduced in the mid 90s. The JLF gradually became the standard fighting game joystick over the years. The LS-32 is still standard for everything else that doesn't use specialty controls such as light guns, steering wheels, and flight sticks. The other Seimitsu joysticks are generally restricted to certain types of cabinets: LS-33 for very small cabs, LS-40 for Neo-Geo, LS-30 for games that require a rotary joystick, LS-56 is an attempt at a JLF clone that was used in late 90s Sega cabs, LS-55 is a larger form factor LS-33 but the dynamics are completely different as it is scaled up. I have no idea what the LS-55 was originally developed for.

    The smaller form factor of the Neo-Geo AES stick demanded a smaller joystick (the LS-33 was not around then) so it used a custom non-rotary LS-30 that felt closer to an LS-32 than the LS-40 used in actual Neo-Geo cabinets. The buttons were custom Seimitsu ones that didn't feel that great.

    Nothing personal, but wow you just made the whole history up, good job man.
  • KabaLKabaL My yomi is better Joined: Posts: 1,073
    Do youknow the real version?
    ~~Where in the world is Opips2 ??~~
  • EvilSamuraiEvilSamurai Joined: Posts: 2,659
    Nothing personal, but wow you just made the whole history up, good job man.

    well thats what I've sort of inferred by reading this forum for years. Please correct me if I'm wrong but I think I got the gist of it right.
  • necroticartnecroticart Joined: Posts: 72
    I just installed a Seimitsu LS-56 in my TE what a difference my execution is dead on now
  • GeorgeCGeorgeC Joined: Posts: 2,850
    One thing I wish could be added to the FAQs is the list of the mounting plates needed to install the different series of Seimitsu joysticks in the Mad Catz and HRAP joystick series. The HRAP is the most ridiculous because of the sub-divisions between the non-universal licensed joysticks (Tekken 5, Arcana Heart 2, etc.) and the two distinct lines of SA joysticks (pre-V3 SA and V3 SA).

    Have to include the new V3 SA in the equations because the mounting is different for the Seimitsu joysticks. It requires only two screws versus the four needed in the HRAP 1/2/3 SA and Mad Catz SE/TE lines.

    I know, for instance, that the LS-32 and LS-40 mount with the SS Mounting Plate in the Mad Catz SE/TE's and the HRAP 3 SA and HRAP V3 SA. However, for the generic HRAP's (HRAP 3 series and the licensed HRAP variants) only the LS-32/LS-40 series Flat Mounting Plate is compatible. LS-56 series fits into the generic HRAP 3 and HRAP subvariants with its stock mounting plate. Fairly certain (not 100% sure, though) I read that the VF Mounting Plate for the LS-56 works with the HRAP V3 SA. There's the new question if whether the Mounting Plates that worked with the Mad Catz joysticks and previous-generation HRAP 3 SA's will still be compatible with the V3 SA owing to the fact of the central screw-in position for the Seimitsu mounting area.... This opens up new question marks for people who would want to install LS-55's, LS-33's, and LS-56's in new build HRAP V3/VX's.
  • diogumdiogum Joined: Posts: 2
    I'm planing to build a stick with vewlix layout, my first one.

    I pretend to use this layout (slagcoin.com) as reference:
    http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout/shift36_m.png

    I guess the screw-in button will be easier to install.
    In the layout description, is mentioned that Sanwa's nuts will not work.
    The OBSN-30, with nuts, has a diameter of 36mm while the PS-14-GN has 35mm.

    The PS-14-GN will fits in this layout? Or any other sugestion?

    I don't have any preference between Sanwa or Seimitsu, so I'm open to any tips.
  • TriplejjjTriplejjj Joined: Posts: 260
    I guess this is the most appropriate place for this question. Does anyone know the type of joystick in Guilty Gear arcade cabinets, eg. GGXX Accent Core? On a sidenote, the rundown on the history of Sanwa and Seimitsu sticks by GeorgeC and Evil Samurai was nice. Good info.
    Fighting game enthusiast
  • Dr. FaustDr. Faust Charging all day long Joined: Posts: 578
    Hay I was wondering if you can use an octa gate on an ls40
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  • jdm714jdm714 Blue Blue Glass Moon Joined: Posts: 12,828
    No.
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  • Dr. FaustDr. Faust Charging all day long Joined: Posts: 578
    ok how tense is the ls-56. Is it as stiff as a Happ stick. I'm trying to find which stick is best for me. I don't like square gates and I hate sawna parts. I'm looking at ether getting the ls-32/56(octa gate) or a Happ stick. I mostly play kof and doing a lot of those motions are kinda odd for me on a square gate so I'm thinking that the ls-56 with the octa gate would be best because its not super stiff like the happ sticks but not loose like the sawan sticks. Also what type of mounting plate should i get if i want to put the ls-32/56 into a TE stick.
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    T7: Lee
  • Capn SpankyCapn Spanky Bullet Billpocalypse Joined: Posts: 1,795
    ok how tense is the ls-56. Is it as stiff as a Happ stick. I'm trying to find which stick is best for me. I don't like square gates and I hate sawna parts. I'm looking at ether getting the ls-32/56(octa gate) or a Happ stick. I mostly play kof and doing a lot of those motions are kinda odd for me on a square gate so I'm thinking that the ls-56 with the octa gate would be best because its not super stiff like the happ sticks but not loose like the sawan sticks. Also what type of mounting plate should i get if i want to put the ls-32/56 into a TE stick.

    LS-56 is tenser than the JLF, about as tense as a Happ iirc (It's been a long time since I've used American parts though). The distance to activate the switches is fairly short (slag coin says "medium," it's shorter than a JLF). I put an LS-56 in my TE and my HRAP1, and I recommend them to everyone I play with. To be honest, I've never used one with an octo gate, so I can't comment on the feel. However, you may want to try it with a square gate before you try octo.

    If you want to mount it in your TE, I believe you need the MS mounting plate. It's a very easy installation in a TE, no modifications necessary with the right mounting plate, and the LS-56 is without a doubt, the best feeling stick I've ever played on. (I do want to try an LS-40 though.)

    This chart has a comparison of joysticks.
    http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands/chart.png
  • RoboKrikitRoboKrikit nuclear Joined: Posts: 1,943
    If you take an LS-56, put a bat top on it, and give it an octo gate, it does sort of feel like a very Japanese-like Happ stick. Or a very Happ-like Japanese stick, take your pick. They do have very different properties though; you'll either love it or hate it. The LS-56 actuates more quickly and has a much shorter throw. The tension is higher in the iL EuroJoystick/Happ Competition.

    Note that the figures for the LS-56 are for the square gate. The octo probably brings down diagonal accuracy a bit but does not feel much different throw-wise, maybe <1mm longer in the cardinal directions.

    Kowal_LS-56_Properties.png

    Kowal_iLEuroJoystick_Properties.png
  • eperelezeperelez VAS-HG FTW! Joined: Posts: 1,443
    "Namco Stick Are #1 In The World, No Doubt There As I Meus King Of Namco Sticks Who Conquer 50 Of This Stick And Sold 40 To My Follow Srk Members And Has 10 in His Home.
    Namco Stick's Are For Live Baby."
    --meus

    HeatWare=eperelez http://www.heatware.com/eval.php?id=84368
  • MarkskiMarkski Joined: Posts: 89
    Does anyone know where to get replacement microswitchs. I think I need new microswitchs for my stick. I have a sanwa stick and it seems really loose as of late I don't want to buy a whole new joystick for my stick. Has anyone else had the same problem where if there stick is in Neutral it wobbles around I've had my stick for quite awile now and it's been affecting my gameplay I'll get some miss imputs because of how loose it is. I can't open up the stick atm because I don't have access to a alan key so I can't find out if all I need to do is tighten something up. Anyone have a solution? Also is there a difference between sanwa and siemitsu joysticks that is noticeable other then the balltop?
  • jdm714jdm714 Blue Blue Glass Moon Joined: Posts: 12,828
    http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-TP-MA-PCB-Assembly_p_395.html

    The wobble at Neutral is normal, and is called Deadzone.
    But if yours is a lot, then is not normal.

    Replace with new JLF Spring.
    http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-JLF-SP-Spring_p_257.html

    Replace with LS-32 Spring for slight.
    http://www.lizardlick.com/Seimitsu-LS-32-Spring_p_421.html

    Replace with LS-55 Spring for more.
    http://www.lizardlick.com/Seimitsu-LS-55-Spring_p_439.html

    There is a lot difference between Sanwa and Seimitsu.
    J&J SoCal Modding: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/113434/
    Visit J&J SoCal Modding's Blog for review of new Arcade Parts: http://jjsocalmodding.blogspot.com
  • MarkskiMarkski Joined: Posts: 89
    http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-TP-MA-PCB-Assembly_p_395.html

    The wobble at Neutral is normal, and is called Deadzone.
    But if yours is a lot, then is not normal.

    Replace with new JLF Spring.
    http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-JLF-SP-Spring_p_257.html

    Replace with LS-32 Spring for slight.
    http://www.lizardlick.com/Seimitsu-LS-32-Spring_p_421.html

    Replace with LS-55 Spring for more.
    http://www.lizardlick.com/Seimitsu-LS-55-Spring_p_439.html

    There is a lot difference between Sanwa and Seimitsu.

    Well which stick is the one with the SF4 TE stick?
  • jdm714jdm714 Blue Blue Glass Moon Joined: Posts: 12,828
    Sanwa JLF.
    J&J SoCal Modding: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/113434/
    Visit J&J SoCal Modding's Blog for review of new Arcade Parts: http://jjsocalmodding.blogspot.com
  • MarkskiMarkski Joined: Posts: 89
    Sanwa JLF.


    Ya I'm thinking I might not have put my stick together properly since last time I took it apart I need to open it up and see if I put that spring in there right or something.
  • PolybiusPolybius Joined: Posts: 274
    Would ps-14-g plungers fit in ps-14-gn casings?
  • jeffrey caldwelljeffrey caldwell Joined: Posts: 38
    ive been wanting to get a colored shaft and dust cover for my sanwa JLF and the only ones i can find that are colored are seimitsu...does anyone know if the shaft covers are interchangable? if not, do they make colored shaft covers at all for sanwas?
  • kikimaru024kikimaru024 Mid-tier scrub Joined: Posts: 1,690
    ive been wanting to get a colored shaft and dust cover for my sanwa JLF and the only ones i can find that are colored are seimitsu...does anyone know if the shaft covers are interchangable? if not, do they make colored shaft covers at all for sanwas?
    You can put Seimitsu shaft covers on JLF shafts.

    However, you need to modify them slightly.
    What I do is take a drill bit (10mm?) and MANUALLY (by hand!) scrape some of the plastic out of the cover until it fits over the shaft.

    Also be aware the colours of Seimitsu are very slightly different from Sanwa.
    Seimitsu & K-sticks > Sanwa JLF.
    This truth is not universally acknowledged.
  • SolderSolder Aspires for Mid-Tier Joined: Posts: 1,339
    Does anyone have info on the new Seimitsu LS-58-01? It's based on the 56-01, so I am hoping it'll drop right into a TE...
    XBL: Girls N Corpses

    Canada Cup 2011- 8/95 Never Forget
  • jeffrey caldwelljeffrey caldwell Joined: Posts: 38
    oh ok thanks that helps me out a lot...and def noted about the color difference i was thinking about getting a bat top just to see what its like anyway...i might as well get a seimitsu balltop
  • TheWooWooKidTheWooWooKid Joined: Posts: 232
    ive been wanting to get a colored shaft and dust cover for my sanwa JLF and the only ones i can find that are colored are seimitsu...does anyone know if the shaft covers are interchangable? if not, do they make colored shaft covers at all for sanwas?
    http://store.gameshark.com/listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=329
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