Kaimana RGB LED Board thread, RGB animations and more! SRK Tech Talk 2013 Product of the Year!

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  • hyp36rmaxhyp36rmax Joined: Posts: 121
    Update. Got it working it turned out to be the main PCB cable. Also noticed one of the J2 LED 3-pin socket was loose.
  • KunikuKuniku Joined: Posts: 349
    after only being in there for a few weeks my paradise arcade joystick RGB LED wire has snapped =(
    Not sure if I can get anything similar here in the UK =/ PA's UK shipping costs are pretty steep =/
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    Hi all,

    Apologies if this is in the wrong place, this mainly relates to the wiring rather than programming LEDs etc.

    OK, so I have the following TE2+ (stock no mods), a Kaimana Khameleon board, Kaimana mini breakout board and a 20 pin wiring harness (all provided by the amazing folks at Paradise Arcade Shop).

    The part I am having an issue with is how to connect the stock PCB on the TE2+ to the mini breakout. At the moment it looks like I need to use the stock button wiring that comes from the TE2+ PCB, cut off the terminals and wire into the mini breakout - this will give me all the 8 buttons - I presume this is correct, there's no other way of going from the TE2+ stock PCB to the breakout without cutting wires?

    What the above doesn't give me (as far as I can tell) is the power or ground, so where do I take this from on the TE2+ board - soldering some wires from certain points on the board, or cutting into more of the stock wiring?

    Finally I then have the joystick wiring from the TE2+ which is 5 wires - again do I cut into the stock wiring and add or is there a better way? Also are the 5 wires, up, down, left, right, ground, or am I completely wrong on this?

    I've already checked out all of the YouTube videos on this and the FAQs on Paradise Arcade, but there is nothing specific to using the stock TE2 or TE2+ boards, only info on using it with a Brooks PS3/PS4 PCB or Universal Fight Board (which I am not using).

    Ideally I'd want some custom harness that comes from the TE2+ to the mini breakout, that would save me cutting wires or soldering, but I am not sure such a thing exists (maybe there should be as I can't be the only person wanting to do this with a stock TE2 or TE2+).

    Many thanks in advance for any ideas or help.

    Jamie

    What am I, chopped liver?
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 428
    edited January 22
    Kuniku wrote: »
    after only being in there for a few weeks my paradise arcade joystick RGB LED wire has snapped =(
    Not sure if I can get anything similar here in the UK =/ PA's UK shipping costs are pretty steep =/

    Man so sorry about that.

    Any rgb led from an electronics shop will do but you would have to build the harness. Just make sure the size of the led is the same or smaller if you don't find it. Without a slip ring it will keep breaking if the stick is rotated enough. Mine is working OK but that stick doesn't get a lot of use.
    jjsparx wrote: »
    Hi all,

    Apologies if this is in the wrong place, this mainly relates to the wiring rather than programming LEDs etc.

    OK, so I have the following TE2+ (stock no mods), a Kaimana Khameleon board, Kaimana mini breakout board and a 20 pin wiring harness (all provided by the amazing folks at Paradise Arcade Shop).

    The part I am having an issue with is how to connect the stock PCB on the TE2+ to the mini breakout. At the moment it looks like I need to use the stock button wiring that comes from the TE2+ PCB, cut off the terminals and wire into the mini breakout - this will give me all the 8 buttons - I presume this is correct, there's no other way of going from the TE2+ stock PCB to the breakout without cutting wires?

    What the above doesn't give me (as far as I can tell) is the power or ground, so where do I take this from on the TE2+ board - soldering some wires from certain points on the board, or cutting into more of the stock wiring?

    Finally I then have the joystick wiring from the TE2+ which is 5 wires - again do I cut into the stock wiring and add or is there a better way? Also are the 5 wires, up, down, left, right, ground, or am I completely wrong on this?

    I've already checked out all of the YouTube videos on this and the FAQs on Paradise Arcade, but there is nothing specific to using the stock TE2 or TE2+ boards, only info on using it with a Brooks PS3/PS4 PCB or Universal Fight Board (which I am not using).

    Ideally I'd want some custom harness that comes from the TE2+ to the mini breakout, that would save me cutting wires or soldering, but I am not sure such a thing exists (maybe there should be as I can't be the only person wanting to do this with a stock TE2 or TE2+).

    Many thanks in advance for any ideas or help.

    Jamie

    Ok so its not a simple setup but its doable , heres how I see it..

    You can choose have to use the 20p harness because of the common ground but you still have to cut and connect from the TE factory harness connector and the joystick connector to the breakout, you can get rid of the wiring that is there already in the stick. Then only connect 1 ground from the TE harness to the Kaimana breakout


    You should be left with something like this:
    Original:
    [buttons]===========[harness conn]=======[PCB]=====[usbplub]
    [Joy]===============================^

    New:
    [20p harness buttons]=====//[breakout]//==(bring only 1 GND here)===[harness conn]====[PCB]========[usbplug]
    [20p harness Joy]============^

    For power and ground, you have to solder a wire from the USB VCC and GND points in the PCB and insert it into the corresponding terminals in the Breakout. Another solution (only if you REALLY cant solder) is to get a phreakmods usb tool to leech power but you will have to also cut the usb cord and insert the usb tool as a breakout.

    This would result in something like this:

    [buttons]=====//[breakout]//======[harness conn]====[PCB]====[Phreaks]====[usbplug]
    [Joy]============^ ((((((((((((((((((((((((((((( ^===(VCC and GND wire)==^

    Let me know if you get this i know its kinda convoluted XD
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    edited January 22
    @JRDIBBS Thank you very much for the detailed info - I think it makes sense!

    I've ordered a couple of bits and pieces that hopefully means I can save the stock wiring and just use the additional items instead:

    16 pin IDC female to female connector, which will replace the stock button wiring and be cut at one end to access the bare wires and put them into the breakout: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272513892745?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

    Sanwa 5 pin joystick cable with bare ends to go into the breakout: https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Sanwa-JLF-H.html

    Then I've got some red and black wire to go from the VCC and ground on the TE2+ to the breakout. Is this obvious where these points are? Any images floating around of where to look?

    So hopefully with the above additions, I can keep the stock wiring in a safe place and cut this wiring instead - at least I think that's what I can do. Can you confirm this please?

    Only minor faff is soldering the two pieces of wire (black and red) from the stock PCB to the mini breakout, but that's not too bad considering this is all stock.

    Many thanks again for your time,

    Jamie

    What am I, chopped liver?
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 428
    jjsparx wrote: »
    @JRDIBBS Thank you very much for the detailed info - I think it makes sense!

    I've ordered a couple of bits and pieces that hopefully means I can save the stock wiring and just use the additional items instead:

    16 pin IDC female to female connector, which will replace the stock button wiring and be cut at one end to access the bare wires and put them into the breakout: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272513892745?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

    Sanwa 5 pin joystick cable with bare ends to go into the breakout: https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Sanwa-JLF-H.html

    Then I've got some red and black wire to go from the VCC and ground on the TE2+ to the breakout. Is this obvious where these points are? Any images floating around of where to look?

    So hopefully with the above additions, I can keep the stock wiring in a safe place and cut this wiring instead - at least I think that's what I can do. Can you confirm this please?

    Only minor faff is soldering the two pieces of wire (black and red) from the stock PCB to the mini breakout, but that's not too bad considering this is all stock.

    Many thanks again for your time,

    Jamie

    Oooo a female IDC good call! This will indeed work as you want it to, just remember you will only use 1 gnd. For power and gnd look for where the red and black wire of the usb cable connect and use those.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    Brilliant, thanks for the confirmation. So, am I right in thinking that each one of the 8 buttons has a ground on the stock wiring, hence 16 wires? With the replacement ribbon cable, I will effectively only need to take 9 wires across - 8 for the buttons and one for ground, the rest I can just seal off?

    This is my first venture into modding joysticks and it makes sense so far! Not got to the programming LED part yet, I'm sure that will make less sense. :)
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 428
    jjsparx wrote: »
    Brilliant, thanks for the confirmation. So, am I right in thinking that each one of the 8 buttons has a ground on the stock wiring, hence 16 wires? With the replacement ribbon cable, I will effectively only need to take 9 wires across - 8 for the buttons and one for ground, the rest I can just seal off?

    This is my first venture into modding joysticks and it makes sense so far! Not got to the programming LED part yet, I'm sure that will make less sense. :)

    Correct the PCB takes the individual grounds and connects them to the GND plane of the board so no need to bring any other gnds.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    Super! I will try to update here with my results once all the parts have arrived. If I have time, I may make a video of the install and put it on YouTube.

    I've no doubt I'll be back with more questions on how to get the LEDs to do what I want them to, but I have all that fun to look forward to!

    Thanks again for your sage advice.
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • KunikuKuniku Joined: Posts: 349
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    Kuniku wrote: »
    after only being in there for a few weeks my paradise arcade joystick RGB LED wire has snapped =(
    Not sure if I can get anything similar here in the UK =/ PA's UK shipping costs are pretty steep =/

    Man so sorry about that.

    Any rgb led from an electronics shop will do but you would have to build the harness. Just make sure the size of the led is the same or smaller if you don't find it. Without a slip ring it will keep breaking if the stick is rotated enough. Mine is working OK but that stick doesn't get a lot of use.

    Never heard of a slip ring before, might see if I can get one of those small enough to do the job... That way might be able to fix the existing LED/harness.

    ArcadeworldUK.com stock a whole joystick RGB LED configuration, so I've also emailed them to see if they would be able to stock just the LED part. Though they're being slow in replying, might have to tweet them...
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    edited January 26
    OK, a quick and perhaps obvious question, but before I power this all up and it explodes I thought I'd check first.

    On the Kaimana Mini breakout board there are 4 breakout blocks with screw terminals, if I look at the back of the board, only one pair of these sets are labelled. I've used the ones that are labelled as my "input" (and left the ones that aren't labelled alone), so the wiring from my stock TE2+ goes into the terminals that have the labelling.

    Firstly, is this correct? Secondly, does it make a difference which of the 2 pairs of breakout blocks (with the screw terminals) I use? I only used the labelled ones as it was easier to see where each wire from the TE2+ needed to go. I presume one pair is "input" and the other pair is "output", but I only need to use the input ones as I have the 20 pin wiring harness to go to all my buttons etc.

    Hopefully this makes sense! Essentially, does it matter which pair of breakout blocks you use for input and output, and if it does matter - which pair do I use for INPUT - the labelled ones or the ones that aren't labelled.

    Lastly, on one of the breakout blocks the top label is missing, as far as I can tell this should be VCC, then it goes, DOWN, UP, LEFT RIGHT, GND, GND, HOME, SEL, START. With regards to the first ground label, I presume this is for the joystick as it is directly after the last direction, which is labelled RIGHT. I presume the 2nd GND is to match with the VCC - is this correct, or does it matter at all?

    With reference to the above, I've taken GND and VBUS from the stock TE2+ USB connection (by soldering a black and red wire to the stock PCB), I presume these 2 wires need to go to VCC and GND as I've mentioned above (it's then just a case of which of the 2 GNDs I use)?

    Many thanks again!

    Jamie
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    One final question on the orientation of the Kaimana Khameleon in relation to the mini breakout - which way round do they go?

    If I look at both of them from the top of the PCBs and look at the text on both (so one says Kaimana Khameleon and has the LED connector on top, and the other has Kaimana Mini Breakout, Paradise Arcade Shop.com with the 4 blocks with screw terminals on top), I have the writing on both the correct way up (so I can read them and neither are upside down) - this is how I've connected them at the moment as it seems the most logical! Is this correct? There doesn't seem to be any indication of which way around they connect.

    Thanks again,

    Jamie
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    Any ideas on the above as I need to get this sorted fairly quickly. There's a few elements that might be the wrong way around and it's going to help me later on if I run into trouble with the LED programming if I know the wiring is 100% correct.

    Thanks.
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 428
    jjsparx wrote: »
    Any ideas on the above as I need to get this sorted fairly quickly. There's a few elements that might be the wrong way around and it's going to help me later on if I run into trouble with the LED programming if I know the wiring is 100% correct.

    Thanks.

    The KK should sit on top of the Breakout like this:
    xLmjed9l.jpg
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    @JRDIBBS Brilliant. Thanks for the quick confirmation - it makes sense that the writing is the same way up on both PCBs, just wanted to check first.

    I've finally bitten the bullet and plugged it all in and it works! Apart from the joystick was upside down, but the wiring was definitely correct, so I rotated the board around the stick rather than rewire (not sure if there is a difference in how you solve this).

    One thing I have noticed is that when I was testing via USB on my PC, the colours weren't working as they should until I connected to my PS4 then they were fine. Bit hard to tell if I've got the right colours etc. when I can't check it all out before connecting to PS4, but it's no biggie. Will investigate further.

    Also in answer to my own question - it doesn't seem to make a difference which pair of breakouts you use, so using the labelled ones seems the best option as it's more obvious where wires go without having to trace the connections on the PCB.

    Will make another update once I've finished playing around a bit more.
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    edited January 28
    OK, so I've got it all (Kaimana Khameleon + Kaimana Mini Breakout) hooked up to the stock TE2+ without any issues. Only had to solder 2 points from the underside of the stock PCB (GND and VBUS). Apart from some questions on which way round things connect to each other and which of the pairs of breakouts to use on the mini, it was a pretty easy install with minimal technical knowledge required. Once I get a new camera I'll post a complete install video on YouTube.

    Onto the LED programming and Arduino. What I thought would be incredibly complex and hard to understand, actually turned out to be fairly easy to use! I've never used Arduino before and it helped that I had something to work with when I generated the Panzer2Kaimana folder from http://brightstick.freecade.org/ - really handy having some Ryu moves and animations already there.

    So I've modified and added to the animations, combo (special moves) etc. and now have a complete moveset for Juri SFV including V-Triggers, throws, EX moves etc. All looking pretty damn awesome! Most of them rotate between buttons and change colours, or flash on and off (so fairly simply animations).

    What I would like to know is how to add a little more flare to the animations and transitions between buttons:

    Is there an easy function that you add in the animations.cpp to fade individual LEDs (or the whole set)? I did look this up, but what I found seemed way too complicated just to change the brightness of LEDs in sequence.

    There is also a default idle sequence (that seems to override the colours I set in the online editor at http://brightstick.freecade.org/), this animation just adds a nice fade-in fade-out animation to all buttons as it cycles through loads of colours. What I want to do is remove a couple of those colours (yellow and green) and replace them with something else. Where is this idle animation saved and where can I edit the colours used?

    **Also there is a very minor issue - I have the buttons set to 2 rows of colours (purple for kick, pink for punch) when not pressed and to go white when pressed, this all works fine apart from 1 LED which is LED_K4_B - I have K4 4th in the daisy chain and it's the right LED that switches off rather than change to white. Apart from that one issue everything works as it should. Just wondering why that one LED is turning off rather than turning white on button press?

    Hopefully that all makes sense. Many thanks in advance.

    Jamie

    What am I, chopped liver?
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    Further update - I've now successfully added a Tournament Mode (turns all LEDs off) when pressing a sequence of buttons, courtesy of the info here: https://github.com/javierorosario/kaimana/blob/HoldTMode/Kaimanafolder/holdingTournamentMode/holdingTournamentMode.ino so thank you to the person that programmed all this.

    The one thing I'm not entirely sure about is changing how tournament mode is turned off (so all my leds come back on), at the moment it's set to come back on with a long button press on P1, which is in the .ino file here:
     //Button hold to start tourneymode
        holdTimeout += 1;
        if(holdTimeout == 10000)
        {
          tournamentMode = true;
          tourneyModeActivate();
        }
    

    What I actually want is to press another sequence of buttons to turn it off (which I've already created under combos). So how do I assign turning tournament mode off, rather than the long press on P1 (as above)?

    Also, I have a question regarding some repetition in the .ino file, namely there are two blocks that are seemingly the same:

    This one that starts at line 535
     // convert joystick, P1-P4, K1-K4 into a single unsigned int
      switchActivity = joystickDirection + switchActivity;
      kaimana.switchHistorySet(switchActivity);
      
     
      // test for combinations from most complext to least complex
      // test for switches in reverse order (newest to oldest)
     
     
      // combo #6
      // test for: Ultra 2 (Metsu Shoryuken)
      // combo is: DOWN, DOWN+RIGHT, RIGHT, DOWN, DOWN+RIGHT, RIGHT, RIGHT+K3
      if( kaimana.switchHistoryTest( COMBO_PATTERN_6A ) )
          animation_combo_6();
     
     
     
      // combo #5
      // test for: Ultra 1 (Metsu Hadouken)
      // combo is: DOWN, DOWN+RIGHT, RIGHT, <NONE>, DOWN, DOWN+RIGHT, RIGHT, RIGHT+P3
      if( kaimana.switchHistoryTest( COMBO_PATTERN_5A ) )
          animation_combo_5();
     
     
     
      // combo #4
      // test for: Super (Shinkuu Hadouken)
      // combo is: DOWN, DOWN+RIGHT, RIGHT, <NONE>, DOWN, DOWN+RIGHT, RIGHT, RIGHT+P1
      if( kaimana.switchHistoryTest( COMBO_PATTERN_4A ) )
          animation_combo_4();
     
     
     
      // combo #3
      // test for: Tatsumaki Senpukyaku (Hurricane Kick)
      // combo is: DOWN, DOWN+LEFT, LEFT, LEFT+K1 or LEFT+K2
      if( kaimana.switchHistoryTest( COMBO_PATTERN_3A ) )
          animation_combo_3();
      if( kaimana.switchHistoryTest( COMBO_PATTERN_3B ) )
          animation_combo_3();
     
     
     
      // combo #2
      // test for: Ryu Shoryuken (Dragon Punch)
      // combo is: RIGHT, <NONE>, DOWN, DOWN+RIGHT, DOWN+RIGHT+P1 or DOWN+RIGHT+P2
      if( kaimana.switchHistoryTest( COMBO_PATTERN_2A ) )
          animation_combo_2();
      if( kaimana.switchHistoryTest( COMBO_PATTERN_2B ) )
          animation_combo_2();
     
     
     
      // combo #1
      // test for: Ryu Hadouken (Fireball) 
      // combo is: DOWN, DOWN+RIGHT, RIGHT, RIGHT+P1 or RIGHT+P2  
      if( kaimana.switchHistoryTest( COMBO_PATTERN_1A ) )
          animation_combo_1();
      if( kaimana.switchHistoryTest( COMBO_PATTERN_1B ) )
          animation_combo_1();
    

    Exactly the same info is also started on line 969 - why the duplication? Is it needed to be this way?

    Many thanks again,

    Jamie
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    Also found another slight issue after adding the code for Tournament Mode and not sure why this would affect the following:

    I have EX moves assigned in the animations and movesets, these worked perfectly all the time when the moves were previously performed (down, down+left, left, left + LK + MK for example). Now I've added the Tournament Mode code they are very difficult to get to register, perhaps one in 10 time the correct animation displays for the EX move, most of the time the animation for the "normal" version displays instead as it seems to ignore the fact I've pressed two of the kick buttons along with the joystick movement.

    Any ideas why this would be affected? Is this something to do with the timeout on long press or something similar? This is one of the main reasons I want to remove references to timeouts and long presses on one button, so I can just assign the Tournament Mode OFF feature to another set of button and joystick actions.

    Thanks again,

    Jamie
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 428
    jjsparx wrote: »
    OK, so I've got it all (Kaimana Khameleon + Kaimana Mini Breakout) hooked up to the stock TE2+ without any issues. Only had to solder 2 points from the underside of the stock PCB (GND and VBUS). Apart from some questions on which way round things connect to each other and which of the pairs of breakouts to use on the mini, it was a pretty easy install with minimal technical knowledge required. Once I get a new camera I'll post a complete install video on YouTube.

    Onto the LED programming and Arduino. What I thought would be incredibly complex and hard to understand, actually turned out to be fairly easy to use! I've never used Arduino before and it helped that I had something to work with when I generated the Panzer2Kaimana folder from http://brightstick.freecade.org/ - really handy having some Ryu moves and animations already there.

    So I've modified and added to the animations, combo (special moves) etc. and now have a complete moveset for Juri SFV including V-Triggers, throws, EX moves etc. All looking pretty damn awesome! Most of them rotate between buttons and change colours, or flash on and off (so fairly simply animations).

    What I would like to know is how to add a little more flare to the animations and transitions between buttons:

    Is there an easy function that you add in the animations.cpp to fade individual LEDs (or the whole set)? I did look this up, but what I found seemed way too complicated just to change the brightness of LEDs in sequence.

    There is also a default idle sequence (that seems to override the colours I set in the online editor at http://brightstick.freecade.org/), this animation just adds a nice fade-in fade-out animation to all buttons as it cycles through loads of colours. What I want to do is remove a couple of those colours (yellow and green) and replace them with something else. Where is this idle animation saved and where can I edit the colours used?

    **Also there is a very minor issue - I have the buttons set to 2 rows of colours (purple for kick, pink for punch) when not pressed and to go white when pressed, this all works fine apart from 1 LED which is LED_K4_B - I have K4 4th in the daisy chain and it's the right LED that switches off rather than change to white. Apart from that one issue everything works as it should. Just wondering why that one LED is turning off rather than turning white on button press?

    Hopefully that all makes sense. Many thanks in advance.

    Jamie



    Hey dude! Im SO glad you got it to work :smiley:

    First the breakout's terminals are mirrored but only labeled on one side.

    Its a strange place you linked to and thats old code, the latest code is in https://github.com/javierorosario/kaimana and from there you can find more stuff under kaimana8btn/J2s. the info below follows the code in these folders.

    For fading you cant get around the complexity, but I built an idle function in the animations.cpp called breatheSine to which you only have to pass the color this only fades all the leds in and out, eg:
    breatheSine(RED);
    breatheSine(BLUE);
    

    I have a new idle animation procedure I have not have the time to put into code, and an idea to how to trigger individual button fades but need time to implement.

    The duplicate code is a result of laziness and not cleaning up after myself (lol), but the general idea is that you need a function to detect button presses while tournament mode is OFF (thats the pollswitches function). And you need another function to detect buttons when TMode is ON which I created by duplicating the original one (tourneypollswitches).

    For the pattern you will have to determine what sequence of buttons you want to use, then create a COMBO_PATTERN using that, then call kaimana.switchHistoryTest with that combo pattern as seen in the ino. Then do the comparison like this:
    if( kaimana.switchHistoryTest( YOUR COMBO PATTERN) )
          {
          tournamentMode = true;
          tourneyModeActivate();
    }
    


    All this code aside from the default code zonbipanda wrote was built by me :smiley: I know I have to clean up but theres so much sht to be done lmao

    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    @JRDIBBS - I thought it might be your code, but wasn't sure, so thank you for all your hard work, it's made my life a lot easier!
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    Its a strange place you linked to and thats old code, the latest code is in https://github.com/javierorosario/kaimana and from there you can find more stuff under kaimana8btn/J2s. the info below follows the code in these folders.

    Ahhh, OK, that might help me! I've been Googling stuff and must have found an old link somewhere. I'll try with the newer code and see if that solves the minor issues I have with certain EX moves not registering the animations properly.
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    For fading you cant get around the complexity, but I built an idle function in the animations.cpp called breatheSine to which you only have to pass the color this only fades all the leds in and out, eg:
    breatheSine(RED);
    breatheSine(BLUE);
    

    Perfect, I saw those functions and thought they might do the job, but wasn't sure how they worked when referencing them. That's exactly what I've been looking for to add to my animations - very simple! I will have a play around and see if I can get it working.
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    The duplicate code is a result of laziness and not cleaning up after myself (lol), but the general idea is that you need a function to detect button presses while tournament mode is OFF (thats the pollswitches function). And you need another function to detect buttons when TMode is ON which I created by duplicating the original one (tourneypollswitches).

    Right, so both references to all my combos are needed - the problem I then have is that the file is too big when I include all 11 combos twice (by about 300 bytes). Is there a way of creating a shortcut reference to all my combos that are already referenced in the same file (as I have 11 of them in all)?

    I don't know the correct way to write this, but could I put in the code somewhere:
    MY_COMBO_LIST = {  
    // combo #1
      // test for: Ryu Shoryuken (Dragon Punch)
      // combo is: RIGHT, <NONE>, DOWN, DOWN+RIGHT, DOWN+RIGHT+P1 or DOWN+RIGHT+P2
      if( kaimana.switchHistoryTest( COMBO_PATTERN_2A ) )
          animation_combo_2();
      if( kaimana.switchHistoryTest( COMBO_PATTERN_2B ) )
          animation_combo_2();
     
      // combo #2
      // test for: Ryu Hadouken (Fireball) 
      // combo is: DOWN, DOWN+RIGHT, RIGHT, RIGHT+P1 or RIGHT+P2  
      if( kaimana.switchHistoryTest( COMBO_PATTERN_1A ) )
          animation_combo_1();
      if( kaimana.switchHistoryTest( COMBO_PATTERN_1B ) )
          animation_combo_1();}
    etc. etc. etc. (including the other 9 combos)
    }
    

    And then I only have to refer to MY_COMBO_LIST instead of duplicating 11 combos again. And if I could do this, would it reduce the size of the file?
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    For the pattern you will have to determine what sequence of buttons you want to use, then create a COMBO_PATTERN using that, then call kaimana.switchHistoryTest with that combo pattern as seen in the ino. Then do the comparison like this:
    if( kaimana.switchHistoryTest( YOUR COMBO PATTERN) )
          {
          tournamentMode = true;
          tourneyModeActivate();
    }
    

    OK, that makes sense. I presume I can just delete the references to the button press on P1 and put the above code somewhere else as I'm not referencing specific buttons anymore?

    I hope you can answer those few questions and thank you in advance for your help!

    Jamie
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    One last thing - I'm using all this code with Arduino 1.6.5, is it worth updating to 1.6.11 or will that break all the other stuff I've added? Most of the files I'm working with were generated via here: http://brightstick.freecade.org/ , which mentions downloading 1.6.5 only.

    I just don't want to give myself more headaches by either using an outdated version of Arduino, or using one that's too recent that then breaks all the work I've done so far.
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    I updated to 1.6.11 and tried my existing build - got loads of errors which I started to fix, but there were so many I stopped and went back to 1.6.5!

    I'm now using your file in kaimana / Kaimana8btn / J2s / tester8btn / tester8btn.ino to copy from and hopefully add tournament mode without any issues. On the old build I was using, I've now managed to somehow change the old code so I can't get it out of Tournament Mode and all my LEDs stay off no matter what I do! Long press on P1 doesn't work anymore, not sure what I've done there, but if I get this new one working I won't have to figure it out.

    I'll post back with more updates once I've got something working.

    Thanks again.
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    edited January 30
    Final update I hope! Managed to get the Tournament Mode working with a button/joystick combination for ON and a reversed one for OFF - all working perfectly.

    The issue with my animations for EX moves (where 2 buttons are pressed at the same time with a joystick movement) still persists. I've tested with Tournament Mode removed from the code and I can get 10 out of 10 animations to work, when it's on I get 1 or 2 out of 10. Really not sure why this is, looks like it's affecting the ability to recognise joystick movements ending with more than one button. My throw, V-Reversal and V-Trigger all work as they should (which all involve pressing 2 buttons simultaneously), so it seems to only affect 2 buttons + Joystick movements. Very odd!

    I omitted the duplicate combo list in the code (because it made the file too big) and it doesn't seem to make any difference. I just kept the duplicated code below for button presses and joystick (which I presume you need to keep):
     // read arduino pins and save results in the mapped LED if button is pressed (pin grounded)
     
      // complex special case for joystick but it's worth the effort
      joystickDirection = ATTACK_NONE;
     
      if(!digitalRead(PIN_RIGHT))
        joystickDirection |= ATTACK_RIGHT;
      if(!digitalRead(PIN_LEFT))
        joystickDirection |= ATTACK_LEFT;
      if(!digitalRead(PIN_DOWN))
        joystickDirection |= ATTACK_DOWN;
      if(!digitalRead(PIN_UP))
        joystickDirection |= ATTACK_UP;
     
      switch(joystickDirection)
      {
        case ATTACK_RIGHT:    // right
          iLED[LED_JOY] = true;
          break;
        case ATTACK_LEFT:    // left
          iLED[LED_JOY] = true;
          break;
        case ATTACK_DOWN:    // down
          iLED[LED_JOY] = true;
          break;
        case ATTACK_DOWN + ATTACK_RIGHT:    // down + right
          iLED[LED_JOY] = true;
          break;
        case ATTACK_DOWN + ATTACK_LEFT:    // down + left
          iLED[LED_JOY] = true;
          break;
        case ATTACK_UP:    // up
          iLED[LED_JOY] = true;
          break;
        case ATTACK_UP + ATTACK_RIGHT:    // up + right
          iLED[LED_JOY] = true;
          break;
        case ATTACK_UP + ATTACK_LEFT:   // up + left
          iLED[LED_JOY] = true;
          break;
        default:   // zero or any undefined value on an 8 way stick like UP+DOWN which is not happening on my watch
          iLED[LED_JOY] = false;
          break;
      }
     
     
     
      // clear results for switch activity
      switchActivity = ATTACK_NONE;
     
      // test switch and set LED based on result       // HOME = GUIDE
      if(!digitalRead(PIN_HOME))
      {
        // switch is active
        if(iLED[LED_HOME] == true)
        {
          //maintain color while switch is active
          iLED[LED_HOME] = true;
        }
        else
        {
          // select new color when switch is first activated
          iLED[LED_HOME] = true;
        }
      }
      else
      {
          // switch is inactive
          iLED[LED_HOME] = false;
      }
     
     
      // test switch and set LED based on result    // SELECT = BACK
      if(!digitalRead(PIN_SELECT))
      {
        // switch is active
        if(iLED[LED_SELECT] == true)
        {
          //maintain color while switch is active
          iLED[LED_SELECT] = true;
        }
        else
        {
          // select new color when switch is first activated
          iLED[LED_SELECT] = true;
        }
      }
      else
      {
          // switch is inactive
          iLED[LED_SELECT] = false;
      }  
      
     // test switch and set LED based on result
      if(!digitalRead(PIN_P1))
      {
            if(iLED[LED_START] == true)
        {
          //maintain color while switch is active
          iLED[LED_START] = true;
        }
        else
        {
          // select new color when switch is first activated
          holdTimeout = 0;
          iLED[LED_START] = true;
        }
      }
      else
      {
          // switch is inactive
          iLED[LED_START] = false;
      }
     
     
      // test switch and set LED based on result
      if(!digitalRead(PIN_P1))
      {
        switchActivity |= ATTACK_P1;
     
        // switch is active
        if(iLED[LED_P1] == true)
        {       
            
          iLED[LED_P1] = true;
        }
        else
        {    
        iLED[LED_P1] = true;
        }
      }
      else
      {
          // switch is inactive
          iLED[LED_P1] = false;
      }
        // test switch and set LED based on result
      if(!digitalRead(PIN_P2))
      {
        switchActivity |= ATTACK_P2;
     
        // switch is active
        if(iLED[LED_P2] == true)
        {
          //maintain color while switch is active
          iLED[LED_P2] = true;
        }
        else
        {
          // select new color when switch is first activated
          iLED[LED_P2] = true;
        }
      }
      else
      {
          // switch is inactive
          iLED[LED_P2] = false;
      }
     
     
      // test switch and set LED based on result
      if(!digitalRead(PIN_P3))
      {
        switchActivity |= ATTACK_P3;
     
        // switch is active
        if(iLED[LED_P3] == true)
        {
          //maintain color while switch is active
          iLED[LED_P3] = true;
        }
        else
        {
          // select new color when switch is first activated
          iLED[LED_P3] = true;
        }
      }
      else
      {
          // switch is inactive
          iLED[LED_P3] = false;
      }
     
     
      // test switch and set LED based on result
      if(!digitalRead(PIN_P4))
      {
        switchActivity |= ATTACK_P4;
     
        // switch is active
        if(iLED[LED_P4] == true)
        {
          //maintain color while switch is active
          iLED[LED_P4] = true;
        }
        else
        {
          // select new color when switch is first activated
     
          iLED[LED_P4] = true;
        }
      }
      else
      {
          // switch is inactive
          iLED[LED_P4] = false;
      }
     
     
      // test switch and set LED based on result
      if(!digitalRead(PIN_K1))
      {
        switchActivity |= ATTACK_K1;
     
        // switch is active
        if(iLED[LED_K1] == true)
        {
          //maintain color while switch is active
          iLED[LED_K1] = true;
        }
        else
        {
          // select new color when switch is first activated
          iLED[LED_K1] = true;
        }
      }
      else
      {
          // switch is inactive
          iLED[LED_K1] = false;
      }
     
     
      // test switch and set LED based on result
      if(!digitalRead(PIN_K2))
      {
        switchActivity |= ATTACK_K2;
     
        // switch is active
        if(iLED[LED_K2] == true)
        {
          //maintain color while switch is active
          iLED[LED_K2] = true;
        }
        else
        {
          // select new color when switch is first activated
          iLED[LED_K2] = true;
        }
      }
      else
      {
          // switch is inactive
          iLED[LED_K2] = false;
      }
     
     
      // test switch and set LED based on result
      if(!digitalRead(PIN_K3))
      {
        switchActivity |= ATTACK_K3;
     
        // switch is active
        if(iLED[LED_K3] == true)
        {
          //maintain color while switch is active
          iLED[LED_K3] = true;
        }
        else
        {
          // select new color when switch is first activated
          iLED[LED_K3] = true;
        }
      }
      else
      {
          // switch is inactive
          iLED[LED_K3] = false;
      }
     
     
      // test switch and set LED based on result
      if(!digitalRead(PIN_K4))
      {
        switchActivity |= ATTACK_K4;
     
        // switch is active
        if(iLED[LED_K4] == true)
        {
          //maintain color while switch is active
          iLED[LED_K4] = true;
        }
        else
        {
          // select new color when switch is first activated
          iLED[LED_K4] = true;
        }
      }
      else
      {
          // switch is inactive
          iLED[LED_K4] = false;
      }
     
     
     
      // convert joystick, P1-P4, K1-K4 into a single unsigned int
      switchActivity = joystickDirection + switchActivity;
      kaimana.switchHistorySet(switchActivity);
    

    But again, this is already referenced in the .ino file further up at the start. From what I understand it's needed when the Tournament Mode is active so that it still recognises which buttons have been pressed etc. - is this correct?

    I also tried breatheSine (PURPLE); and breatheSine (PINK); but the effect it gave was very flickery and not really a smooth transition. I don't think I'll need it right now anyway, so may go back and have a play in the future.

    Other than those minor issues above, it's all up and running and I can now actually play SFV and get back into ranked matches! The whole process from installing and modding the TE2+ to programming the LEDs was surprisingly intuitive and fairly easy to understand. I had visions of pulling my hair out, but luckily it all just worked! So, if anyone has a TE2+ and needs assistance with installing the LEDs or basic programming, I'm sure I can help.

    Thanks to JRDIBBS for all your help and some great code.

    Jamie
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    Just one last thing - when I first plugged this all in after wiring the mini breakout, kaimana khameleon etc. the joystick directions were upside down when moving my character on screen (even though I had double checked the wiring from the TE2+ joystick and it was correct). I solved this quickly by just turning the joystick PCB 180º, but this means the wire connecting to it is a little too short and has a bit of tension on it.

    What do I need to change within the ino file (or wherever the joystick functions are) that will enable me to put my joystick PCB back around to where it was originally and give me a bit less stress on the joystick wire, so basically re-assign the pins within the software to the opposite of what they are now. Also if I do this (if it's possible) will that mean all the moves I've input are reversed, or does this only affect how the joystick PCB interacts with the Kaimana and mini breakout? May seem like a bloody obvious question and solution to some, but I just want to double-check first.

    Minor issue, but worth changing if possible and good to know for future reference.

    Thanks.
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    I presume the joystick pins are in here (kaimana.h):
    // Map function names to arduino leonardo atmega32u4 digital pin numbers
    // specific to ParadiseArcadeShop.com Kaimana board (PS360+LED)
    #define  PIN_DOWN    11   //PB7
    #define  PIN_UP      18   //PF7
    #define  PIN_LEFT    19   //PF6
    #define  PIN_RIGHT   20   //PF5
    #define  PIN_SELECT  9    //PB5
    #define  PIN_HOME    8    //PB4
    #define  PIN_START   10   //PB6
    #define  PIN_P1      3    //PD0
    #define  PIN_P2      2    //PD1
    #define  PIN_P3      0    //PD2
    #define  PIN_P4      1    //PD3
    #define  PIN_K1      4    //PD4
    #define  PIN_K2      21   //PF4
    #define  PIN_K3      12   //PD6
    #define  PIN_K4      6    //PD7
    //
    #define  PIN_LED     23
    

    I'll have a play and see if I break anything.
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    When referencing LEDs I see this used which refers to one specific LED:
    kaimana.setLED( LED_K4, BLACK );
    

    or this which refers to all LEDs:
    kaimana.setALL(BLACK);
    

    But is there a way of referencing a specific group of LEDs?

    I've tried this:
    kaimana.setLED( LED_K1, LED_K2, LED_K3, LED_K4, BLACK);
    

    But it gives me an error. It would be really helpful to only reference P1 to P4 or K1 to K4 without having to put each one in individually. Is there a way to do this?
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 428
    Reset the position of the pcb and switch the wires in the breakout.

    You will have to create a function that will light groups up.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    edited January 30
    In answer to my own question, with reference this this:
    // Map function names to arduino leonardo atmega32u4 digital pin numbers
    // specific to ParadiseArcadeShop.com Kaimana board (PS360+LED)
    #define  PIN_DOWN    11   <-- changed this to 18 //PB7
    #define  PIN_UP      18   <-- changed this to 11  //PF7
    #define  PIN_LEFT    19   <-- changed this to 20  //PF6
    #define  PIN_RIGHT   20   <-- changed this to 19   //PF5
    

    I made the above changes and I now have my joystick PCB back to where it was originally with less stress on my cable. Simple update.
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    Reset the position of the pcb and switch the wires in the breakout.

    Think I've solved this with my above software amendment, haven't tried playing a game yet though, so it might still be reversed??? Will post back once updated.
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    You will have to create a function that will light groups up.

    Ah, OK. Might be a bit advanced for me, but I will see if I can work it out. I've done it "long-hand" and am just under the max file size. Just thought it would be useful in the animations where you have multiple references to K1, K2, K3, K4 etc. if you could condense it down to just K-ALL or something similar.

    What am I, chopped liver?
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    Just checked with the PS4 and swapping the pin numbers in the kaimana.h file doesn't affect the actual joystick movements on screen, only the references to combo animations and joystick movements detected by the Kaimana. So thanks JRDIBBS, yes, had to re-wire, which is really annoying considering they're all in the right place according to the labelling on the mini breakout and the back of the TE2+ main PCB, instead of 4 wires nicely in a row (as the cable is made), there are now 2 pairs crossed over each other. Nothing too major though.
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • hyp36rmaxhyp36rmax Joined: Posts: 121
    what's the advantage of USB switching in the khamelon compared to the standard kaimana? Any benefits other than being able to update with the main USB from your stick as opposed to directly to the led PCB?
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 428
    hyp36rmax wrote: »
    what's the advantage of USB switching in the khamelon compared to the standard kaimana? Any benefits other than being able to update with the main USB from your stick as opposed to directly to the led PCB?

    I saw Jasen already answered your question here so I wont reiterate.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    I presume that there is no way around this, but in programming the animations for SFV, they only show correctly if your character is facing right. There is no way for the Kaimana to know which way you're facing I guess???
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 428
    jjsparx wrote: »
    I presume that there is no way around this, but in programming the animations for SFV, they only show correctly if your character is facing right. There is no way for the Kaimana to know which way you're facing I guess???

    Nope, though you could program both directions since the input only goes one way (eg. a Hadouken is either qcf+p or qcb+p ).
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • jjsparxjjsparx Joined: Posts: 45
    Thanks for the confirmation. I thought that might be the case, it would be OK for Ryu and other characters as their special moves aren't reversed, but Juri has qcf+k as her specials or charge and qcb+k as her flip kick so you'd have to have the same animation programmed for both. I might see if there's a compromise. Thought I wouldn't have to change anything else after spending all weekend programming animations! Fun times.

    Also not sure if you're able to answer the question in the other thread about not having to open up the fighstick to program etc. if you have a Khameleon.
    What am I, chopped liver?
  • DaikathDaikath Reborn Sega Fanboy Joined: Posts: 57
    After having seen the install videos on Fundado's youtube channel I get a sense of it, especially with the breakout board.

    If I'm going to make my own stick it will have to be for the Dreamcast. With the breakout board instead of a regular screw terminals going to the buttons.

    Very interesting and should work fine, despite not having 4p and 4k. But I'm not sure how it works with the indexed rgbs in sequence. Will it know I don't have a 4p and know it should go to 1k instead, or do I need to go through the code and remove the 4p and 4k functionality?

    I have experience programming so that shouldn't be an issue.
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 428
    Daikath wrote: »
    After having seen the install videos on Fundado's youtube channel I get a sense of it, especially with the breakout board.

    If I'm going to make my own stick it will have to be for the Dreamcast. With the breakout board instead of a regular screw terminals going to the buttons.

    Very interesting and should work fine, despite not having 4p and 4k. But I'm not sure how it works with the indexed rgbs in sequence. Will it know I don't have a 4p and know it should go to 1k instead, or do I need to go through the code and remove the 4p and 4k functionality?

    I have experience programming so that shouldn't be an issue.

    You basicaly define a new layout ommitting the 4p and 4k and change the LED_COUNT variable in the kaimana_custom file. will look something like this:
    #ifdef _LED_ORDER_DEFAULT_
      // Map function names to default LED index numbers
      // specific to ParadiseArcadeShop.com Kaimana board (PS360+LED)
      // change or expand as needed
      //
      //   KAIMANA->LED_JOY->LED_HOME->LED_SELECT->LED_START->LED_P1->LED-P2->LED_P3->LED-P4->LED_K1->LED-K2->LED_K3->LED-K4
      //
      #define  LED_JOY     0
      #define  LED_HOME    1
      #define  LED_GUIDE   1
      #define  LED_SELECT  2
      #define  LED_BACK    2
      #define  LED_START   3
      #define  LED_P1      4
      #define  LED_P2      5
      #define  LED_P3      6
      #define  LED_P4      0xff
      #define  LED_K1      8
      #define  LED_K2      9
      #define  LED_K3      10
      #define  LED_K4      0xff
    #endif
    
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 428
    Well, after struggling with code for the last few months and realising I setup the whole thing wrong at the beginning, I managed to get two Kaimanas to interrupt each other! There are slight bugs in the timing but at this point I am looking towards rewriting the Kaimana routines from the ground up.

    The bad news? I broke both my k-minis usb port from all the finagling. I might just build a development board so I can stop with the connect/disconnect that plagues my setup right now.

    I am setting up to continue developing animations and building the Kaimana Wiki, whats your Kaimana project looking like?

    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • KunikuKuniku Joined: Posts: 349
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    Well, after struggling with code for the last few months and realising I setup the whole thing wrong at the beginning, I managed to get two Kaimanas to interrupt each other! There are slight bugs in the timing but at this point I am looking towards rewriting the Kaimana routines from the ground up.

    The bad news? I broke both my k-minis usb port from all the finagling. I might just build a development board so I can stop with the connect/disconnect that plagues my setup right now.

    I am setting up to continue developing animations and building the Kaimana Wiki, whats your Kaimana project looking like?

    Mine is still borked, the buttons are all working fine, but the LED balltop is still broken after the wires over rotated in the hollow shaft and snapped within a week of installing it. Was trying to come up with a way of having a rotating joint in there somewhere.

    A place here in the UK sells a setup with an audio-jack connector at the bottom of the joystick shaft, but apparently it won't fit into a JLF setup - so was looking at seeing if I could replicate that, but ultimately that would be far too complicated for me to do - and I don't really know anyone who could do it =/

    So left with either doing another order from PA, which ends up being crazy expensive because of their international shipping costs, and just ordering a bucket load of balltop LEDs and just changing them whenever they break - or trying to find someone locally who can try and put a 4-pole 2.5mm audio socket into the bottom of a hollow JLF shaft. But considering my facebook friend searches couldn't even find anyone to do some really basic soldering for me... don't really see it happening =/

  • 32teeth32teeth Joined: Posts: 901
    ordering issues
    give moledcule a try
    hey all, we recently released version 1.0.3 which brings in the balltop fix
    you can now order your wiring without writing code

    we use a drag and drop for your buttons order
    reply_11069217-0.png


    give it a shot
    moledcule.club

    or download the chrome app today

  • hyp36rmaxhyp36rmax Joined: Posts: 121
    Will Molecule allow me to set the color of the Touch button? The current way of setting the colors through brightstick.freecade is limited to 11 buttons.
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 428
    hyp36rmax wrote: »
    Will Molecule allow me to set the color of the Touch button? The current way of setting the colors through brightstick.freecade is limited to 11 buttons.

    Do you have a custom touch button and led? The number of inputs an an individual kaimana is limited to 8 action buttons, 3 menu and 4 directional so depending on your setup you may have eaten up the inputs.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • hyp36rmaxhyp36rmax Joined: Posts: 121
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    hyp36rmax wrote: »
    Will Molecule allow me to set the color of the Touch button? The current way of setting the colors through brightstick.freecade is limited to 11 buttons.

    Do you have a custom touch button and led? The number of inputs an an individual kaimana is limited to 8 action buttons, 3 menu and 4 directional so depending on your setup you may have eaten up the inputs.

    Yessir! Custom touch button and led. It works fine lighting up on idle animations. Oddly enough it does light up intermittently when the other buttons are activated.
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 428
    hyp36rmax wrote: »
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    hyp36rmax wrote: »
    Will Molecule allow me to set the color of the Touch button? The current way of setting the colors through brightstick.freecade is limited to 11 buttons.

    Do you have a custom touch button and led? The number of inputs an an individual kaimana is limited to 8 action buttons, 3 menu and 4 directional so depending on your setup you may have eaten up the inputs.

    Yessir! Custom touch button and led. It works fine lighting up on idle animations. Oddly enough it does light up intermittently when the other buttons are activated.

    Could you share your led setup? I have a hunch that you will need to add it in code but I can help a lot more if I know how you have it setup right now.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 428
    I've finished something very special that will allow me to setup faster and even code to go:

    The LED Animation tester!
    dQCkkSzl.jpg

    Video In action:
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • gahrlinggahrling Better safe than Hori.. Joined: Posts: 3,910
    @armi0024

    Hey dude, I'm interested in a Kaimana product (either the mini or full size) but I'm having some problems with your website, mainly that your 'wiki' product pages are broken and come up blank.

    I really need some in-depth information on these two products so I can decide what is best suited for my customers. Any chance of getting the wiki pages back online?

    http://support.paradisearcadeshop.net/doku.php?id=kaimana_led_controller
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 428
    gahrling wrote: »
    @armi0024

    Hey dude, I'm interested in a Kaimana product (either the mini or full size) but I'm having some problems with your website, mainly that your 'wiki' product pages are broken and come up blank.

    I really need some in-depth information on these two products so I can decide what is best suited for my customers. Any chance of getting the wiki pages back online?

    http://support.paradisearcadeshop.net/doku.php?id=kaimana_led_controller

    Hello! Thanks for pointing out the links are bad, this is from the store page correct? @SusanInParadise can take a look at it. Meanwhile I am the resident kaimana guy so any questions feel free to ask! We are working to revamp the info at http://support.paradisearcadeshop.com/ but again if you need something specific I'm here!
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • gahrlinggahrling Better safe than Hori.. Joined: Posts: 3,910
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    Hello! Thanks for pointing out the links are bad, this is from the store page correct? @SusanInParadise can take a look at it. Meanwhile I am the resident kaimana guy so any questions feel free to ask! We are working to revamp the info at http://support.paradisearcadeshop.com/ but again if you need something specific I'm here!


    Hi.

    Yes, the link is taken directly from the brief product description from the PAS website.

    I need to know the precise differences between the Mini and Kameleon. I also need to know if the Kameleon no longer comes with screw terminals (the original release Kameleon did), and if not then is there a way to add them at checkout?
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 428
    gahrling wrote: »
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    Hello! Thanks for pointing out the links are bad, this is from the store page correct? @SusanInParadise can take a look at it. Meanwhile I am the resident kaimana guy so any questions feel free to ask! We are working to revamp the info at http://support.paradisearcadeshop.com/ but again if you need something specific I'm here!


    Hi.

    Yes, the link is taken directly from the brief product description from the PAS website.

    I need to know the precise differences between the Mini and Kameleon. I also need to know if the Kameleon no longer comes with screw terminals (the original release Kameleon did), and if not then is there a way to add them at checkout?

    The KMini is a reduced size Kaimana that has the 20pin female header to sit on top of 20pin enabled boards such as the Brooks UFB. The KK has the 20 pin plus a built in USB switcher which allows you to, with a single usb cable, switch between the controller pcb and the Kaimana by pressing home+K1. Other than that its the same chip so the code from the KM will work with the KK. There is a breakout board that we sell here that will work with either board.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • gahrlinggahrling Better safe than Hori.. Joined: Posts: 3,910
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    The KMini is a reduced size Kaimana that has the 20pin female header to sit on top of 20pin enabled boards such as the Brooks UFB. The KK has the 20 pin plus a built in USB switcher which allows you to, with a single usb cable, switch between the controller pcb and the Kaimana by pressing home+K1. Other than that its the same chip so the code from the KM will work with the KK. There is a breakout board that we sell here that will work with either board.


    Can I still get a Kameleon that has screw terminals on it like what's seen at the beginning of this thread? It's important because in this circumstance pin headers are useless to me and purchasing a separate breakout board feels like an unnecessary tax (plus increasing shipping costs to the UK as I'll need two sets of driver boards & LED's).
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