Kaimana RGB LED Board thread, RGB animations and more! SRK Tech Talk 2013 Product of the Year!

11718192022

Comments

  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    gahrling wrote: »
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    The KMini is a reduced size Kaimana that has the 20pin female header to sit on top of 20pin enabled boards such as the Brooks UFB. The KK has the 20 pin plus a built in USB switcher which allows you to, with a single usb cable, switch between the controller pcb and the Kaimana by pressing home+K1. Other than that its the same chip so the code from the KM will work with the KK. There is a breakout board that we sell here that will work with either board.


    Can I still get a Kameleon that has screw terminals on it like what's seen at the beginning of this thread? It's important because in this circumstance pin headers are useless to me and purchasing a separate breakout board feels like an unnecessary tax (plus increasing shipping costs to the UK as I'll need two sets of driver boards & LED's).

    You mean if you can get a Kaimana that has the terminals, Khameleon is Jasens branding of the Kaimana. The OG Kaimana (which is the one you see at the begginging of this thread) has been discontinued but you can get both the kaimana mini and breakout board as a single product here, the breakouts themselves are small and lightweight so they should not add a lot to the shipping.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • KunikuKuniku Joined: Posts: 351
    gahrling wrote: »
    Can I still get a Kameleon that has screw terminals on it like what's seen at the beginning of this thread? It's important because in this circumstance pin headers are useless to me and purchasing a separate breakout board feels like an unnecessary tax (plus increasing shipping costs to the UK as I'll need two sets of driver boards & LED's).

    Ah shipping stuff over here is always fun - especially from PA! I've found ordering more doesn't increase the shipping a whole lot, as none of it weighs a great deal. Unless you're ordering a second order and thus second shipping charge - that'll cost ya!

  • wigsplitterwigsplitter Joined: Posts: 135
    edited March 11
    Hey guys...... have a question for setting up an IL stick. Ok I already have the buttons, I want to make sure that I'm purchasing the correct parts. 1st (8) IL-lumination RGB 5VDC LED, 2nd (7) Paradise Kaimana 3" Wire Harness with one 9" one, 3rd the Paradise Kaimana Mini LED Driver PCB. I'm thinking that's pretty much it right? Am I missing something? Do I have to get the full size LED PCB? I know I need the 20pin ribbon. @armi0024

    thanks in advance
    Post edited by wigsplitter on
  • Bird333Bird333 Joined: Posts: 45
    Piggy backing off of that I want to do a dual mod with MC Cthulhu and Brook UFB. What Kaimana parts should I get to make it easy?
  • ninjanutrianinjanutria Joined: Posts: 3
    Hi, i got my kaimana mine and the mini breakout but well i am lost, this is my first time trying to mod something, got a qnba Q4 stick modded with a hori commander 4 pcb.

    cSfP8DE.jpg


    so it seems when i got my stick modded they add this pcb to power up the hori pcb? (i am guessing i know nothing)

    Mu5hOCk.jpg

    my q4 vcc and ground go to this little black thing along with the hori pcb...

    ADmNOQc.jpg


    my guess i can send 2 wires from vcc and gnd in the breakout into that black circuit there that is connected to the USB that should be distributing power to the circuits.

    is that correct?
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    Snip

    It does look like that board has something to do with USB so taking +5V and GND from here would be valid.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • ninjanutrianinjanutria Joined: Posts: 3
    @JRDIBBS

    yeah, thats the case i figured out that thank you. now i have a new doubt.

    my pcb is connected to the buttons like this:

    f1HzRvA.jpg

    so...what i been told i can make a daisy chain for the GND from buttons to the kaimana breakout... should i be connecting all the ground wires in my q4 pcb to a single wire that connects to the kaimana breakout?


  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    @JRDIBBS

    yeah, thats the case i figured out that thank you. now i have a new doubt.

    my pcb is connected to the buttons like this:

    f1HzRvA.jpg

    so...what i been told i can make a daisy chain for the GND from buttons to the kaimana breakout... should i be connecting all the ground wires in my q4 pcb to a single wire that connects to the kaimana breakout?


    Yup you have to daisy chain the gnds in the buttons and bring a single wire to the breakout
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • Ssj4Crisis_XSsj4Crisis_X Battling Puddies! Joined: Posts: 112
    So im having a problem programing my Kaimana Mini LEDS.

    I'm using it on a Ps360+, mini usb plugged into the Kaimana Mini. Ive followed this video () to T and after uploading the code to the board via mini usb.... the buttons aren't lighting up properly. I'm only lighting up the 4 kicks and 4 punches. My inactive color is fine but when buttons are pushed only one LED may light up and it usually lights up on different button from the one being pushing.
    ( Arduino 1.6.5 and http://brightstick.freecade.org/ )

    //BOOT AND IDLE SEQUENCE TIMING
    #define BOOT_COLOR_DELAY 250
    #define BOOT_COMPLETE_DELAY 500
    #define MAIN_LOOP_DELAY 50
    #define IDLE_TIMEOUT_SECONDS 10
    #define IDLE_ANIMATION_DELAY 5
    #define BRIGHTNESS 1

    //LED INDEX
    #define LED_P4 0
    #define LED_P4_B 1
    #define LED_P3 4
    #define LED_P3_B 5
    #define LED_P2 8
    #define LED_P2_B 9
    #define LED_P1 12
    #define LED_P1_B 13
    #define LED_JOY 0xFF
    #define LED_K4 2
    #define LED_K4_B 3
    #define LED_K3 6
    #define LED_K3_B 7
    #define LED_K2 10
    #define LED_K2_B 11
    #define LED_K1 14
    #define LED_K1_B 15
    #define LED_SELECT 0xff
    #define LED_SELECT_B 0xff
    #define LED_HOME 0xff
    #define LED_HOME_B 0xff
    #define LED_START 0xff
    #define LED_START_B 0xff
    #define LED_COUNT 16


    Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

    This led order seems strange, how are the leds physically connected? This looks like:

    P4 K4 P3 K3 P2 K2 P1 K1
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • Ssj4Crisis_XSsj4Crisis_X Battling Puddies! Joined: Posts: 112
    JRDIBBS wrote: »

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

    This led order seems strange, how are the leds physically connected? This looks like:

    P4 K4 P3 K3 P2 K2 P1 K1

    That is correct, should I change it?
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    JRDIBBS wrote: »

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

    This led order seems strange, how are the leds physically connected? This looks like:

    P4 K4 P3 K3 P2 K2 P1 K1

    That is correct, should I change it?

    I have a feeling it has to do with the fact that @Jasen Hicks prepared his code generator for a specific layout
    @Kuniku - Can you tell us how you have everything connected. This will help us, help you, write the code. OR you could just wire it like a PFS2 and be done with it:

    K4-K3-K2-K1-JOY-P1-P2-P3-P4-START-HOME-SELECT

    If you can rewire it like so and test if works then we know what happened, remember to also regenerate the code for a valid test. I have a J2 code base but I need to revisit it to clean since I've only been working on animations.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • Ssj4Crisis_XSsj4Crisis_X Battling Puddies! Joined: Posts: 112
    edited March 21
    JRDIBBS wrote: »

    This led order seems strange, how are the leds physically connected? This looks like:

    P4 K4 P3 K3 P2 K2 P1 K1

    That is correct, should I change it?


    I have a feeling it has to do with the fact that @Jasen Hicks prepared his code generator for a specific layout

    Switched it up and reuploaded the file. Just trying to have the lights stay yellow and when pressed turn orange. What i get is the L kick orange, and the rest are yellow. When i press l punch, the l kick changes colors but none of the other buttons respond. Also I have silencers in my buttons... could that cause a problem? I was wondering around paradise arcade and notice they have some different ones for LEDS, i have these [Link. Assuming im going to need something like this? [Link

    //BOOT AND IDLE SEQUENCE TIMING
    #define BOOT_COLOR_DELAY 250
    #define BOOT_COMPLETE_DELAY 500
    #define MAIN_LOOP_DELAY 50
    #define IDLE_TIMEOUT_SECONDS 10
    #define IDLE_ANIMATION_DELAY 5
    #define BRIGHTNESS 1

    //LED INDEX
    #define LED_P4 14
    #define LED_P4_B 15
    #define LED_P3 12
    #define LED_P3_B 13
    #define LED_P2 10
    #define LED_P2_B 11
    #define LED_P1 8
    #define LED_P1_B 9
    #define LED_JOY 0xFF
    #define LED_K4 0
    #define LED_K4_B 1
    #define LED_K3 2
    #define LED_K3_B 3
    #define LED_K2 4
    #define LED_K2_B 5
    #define LED_K1 6
    #define LED_K1_B 7
    #define LED_SELECT 0xFF
    #define LED_SELECT_B 0xFF
    #define LED_HOME 0xFF
    #define LED_HOME_B 0xFF
    #define LED_START 0XFF
    #define LED_START_B 0xFF
    #define LED_COUNT 16
    Post edited by Ssj4Crisis_X on
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    JRDIBBS wrote: »

    This led order seems strange, how are the leds physically connected? This looks like:

    P4 K4 P3 K3 P2 K2 P1 K1

    That is correct, should I change it?


    I have a feeling it has to do with the fact that @Jasen Hicks prepared his code generator for a specific layout

    Switched it up and reuploaded the file. Just trying to have the lights stay yellow and when pressed turn orange. What i get is the lp orange, and the rest are yellow. When i press m punch, the l punch changes colors but none of the other buttons respond.

    //BOOT AND IDLE SEQUENCE TIMING
    #define BOOT_COLOR_DELAY 250
    #define BOOT_COMPLETE_DELAY 500
    #define MAIN_LOOP_DELAY 50
    #define IDLE_TIMEOUT_SECONDS 10
    #define IDLE_ANIMATION_DELAY 5
    #define BRIGHTNESS 1

    //LED INDEX
    #define LED_P4 14
    #define LED_P4_B 15
    #define LED_P3 12
    #define LED_P3_B 13
    #define LED_P2 10
    #define LED_P2_B 11
    #define LED_P1 8
    #define LED_P1_B 9
    #define LED_JOY 0xFF
    #define LED_K4 0
    #define LED_K4_B 1
    #define LED_K3 2
    #define LED_K3_B 3
    #define LED_K2 4
    #define LED_K2_B 5
    #define LED_K1 6
    #define LED_K1_B 7
    #define LED_SELECT 0xFF
    #define LED_SELECT_B 0xFF
    #define LED_HOME 0xFF
    #define LED_HOME_B 0xFF
    #define LED_START 0XFF
    #define LED_START_B 0xFF
    #define LED_COUNT 16

    You want for all buttons to turn orange when any button is pressed?
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • Ssj4Crisis_XSsj4Crisis_X Battling Puddies! Joined: Posts: 112
    edited March 21


    Yes, i didnt realize you made a post. I updated my original post to give more details on whats going on. I think it might be a silencer issue?

    Post edited by Ssj4Crisis_X on
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436

    Yes, i didnt realize you made a post. I updated my original post to give more details on whats going on. I think it might be a silencer issue?

    Just to discard it can you remove the silencers and test? It could be that the light is bleeding to the other button but we wont know until you remove the silencer pads.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • Ssj4Crisis_XSsj4Crisis_X Battling Puddies! Joined: Posts: 112
    JRDIBBS wrote: »

    Yes, i didnt realize you made a post. I updated my original post to give more details on whats going on. I think it might be a silencer issue?

    Just to discard it can you remove the silencers and test? It could be that the light is bleeding to the other button but we wont know until you remove the silencer pads.

    Will do!
  • KunikuKuniku Joined: Posts: 351
    I'm not sure silencer pads make a difference, I'm using the OBSC buttons with the silencers in and don't have any issues with bleeding colours, all of my issues were caused my either wiring or coding problems.


    While chiming in - quick question of my own:

    Since I haven't managed to find a slip ring type solution to my snapping balltop LED wires problem (I considered a 4 pole 2.5mm audio jack, but I don't think there is any way I'd be able to hook that all up and fit it all inside the hollow JLF shaft with my meagre skills/tools)

    So I've considered, instead, swapping out the Balltop LED, and hooking one of these in underneath the baseplate:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00EXV1QS2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=31K5YFQZX8XRD&coliid=I13W2QKFNO2P4B

    Can this be hooked up to the kaimana? Or do I need to go back to finding a solution to the Balltop LED problem?

    (Other solutions are just buy a whole load of the RGB LEDs and just swap them out whenever they snap, or buy this and switch from JLF to JLW which I don't really want to do - I'm told this shaft wont fit in a JLF)
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    Kuniku wrote: »
    I'm not sure silencer pads make a difference, I'm using the OBSC buttons with the silencers in and don't have any issues with bleeding colours, all of my issues were caused my either wiring or coding problems.


    While chiming in - quick question of my own:

    Since I haven't managed to find a slip ring type solution to my snapping balltop LED wires problem (I considered a 4 pole 2.5mm audio jack, but I don't think there is any way I'd be able to hook that all up and fit it all inside the hollow JLF shaft with my meagre skills/tools)

    So I've considered, instead, swapping out the Balltop LED, and hooking one of these in underneath the baseplate:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00EXV1QS2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=31K5YFQZX8XRD&coliid=I13W2QKFNO2P4B

    Can this be hooked up to the kaimana? Or do I need to go back to finding a solution to the Balltop LED problem?

    (Other solutions are just buy a whole load of the RGB LEDs and just swap them out whenever they snap, or buy this and switch from JLF to JLW which I don't really want to do - I'm told this shaft wont fit in a JLF)

    The neopixel rings are too large for what you are attempting, plus they work as individual leds so a 12 pixel ring would be adding 12 leds to your setup. I use a 12 pixel ring to test animations!

    Now that you put that ebay link I went through and searched for slipring, im not sure how expensive this would be for you but it looks like it would work:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Capsule-Slip-Ring-300Rpm-6-way-22mm-2A-360-Rotation-AWG28-/162155007007?hash=item25c1310c1f:g:-a8AAOSwRoxXnwqy
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • KunikuKuniku Joined: Posts: 351
    Ah wasn't sure if the neopixel ring would fit in the gap between the plate and the JLF...

    Would that slip ring just "hang" underneath the hollow shaft? I figured I'd need something that would at least "plug in" to the bottom of the shaft? But its cheap enough that providing I can get hold of another RGB LED from paradise arcade without having to get a mortgage to pay for shipping to the UK it could be worth trying...
  • ninjanutrianinjanutria Joined: Posts: 3
    edited March 27
    @JRDIBBS

    sorry i havent progress at all because of work (what i did last: microswitcehs already daisy chained) , so what i understand is, it doesnt matter if the breakout has one gnd for kicks and one gnd for punches i can send all my grounds into a single one? ( yes i am in diapers with this)

    edit (todays progress):

    connect all gnd cables into a single one like this.

    ACmSE1j.jpg

    u3t4O7n.jpg


    the end of the black cable should go into any of the gnd pins in the kaimana breakout.

    was this the way to go?
    Post edited by ninjanutria on
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    edited March 27
    Kuniku wrote: »
    Ah wasn't sure if the neopixel ring would fit in the gap between the plate and the JLF...

    Would that slip ring just "hang" underneath the hollow shaft? I figured I'd need something that would at least "plug in" to the bottom of the shaft? But its cheap enough that providing I can get hold of another RGB LED from paradise arcade without having to get a mortgage to pay for shipping to the UK it could be worth trying...

    Yes it would just sit beneath the shaft because you want the led to spin freely. As for LED it can be any rgb led granted you are willing to wire up the leads.
    @JRDIBBS
    sniparroni

    Yes this is the correct approach. Any GND spot in the Breakout wil do.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • BubbledotjpgBubbledotjpg Joined: Posts: 233
    Hae anyone installed the kaimana breakout in the panzer 3? I'm looking to install one but not sure how it would interact with the ribbon. Is it possible to ribbon into the kaimana then use the screw terminals to connect to the ufb?
  • shadow77890shadow77890 You're in for quite a night. Joined: Posts: 4
    Hello, everyone!

    I have a Kaimana Mini mounted via 20-pin onto a Universal Fighting Board and I'm having an issue where when I press and hold the 2K/MK button one of the two LEDs on that J2 lights up properly and the other will briefly flash. I used the Kaimana Khameleon Code generator website to make the code. I've been looking around and I've seen others have had the same issue but I can't seem to find a concrete solution. I'm sorry if it has been addressed already.
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,293
    Hae anyone installed the kaimana breakout in the panzer 3? I'm looking to install one but not sure how it would interact with the ribbon. Is it possible to ribbon into the kaimana then use the screw terminals to connect to the ufb?

    Dont use the breakout. Just pop it down onto the UFB 20P header then connect the ribbon to the pass through pins on the Mini, assuming it still has the passthrough pins. Alternatively, use a Kaimana Khameleon.
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year Co-Recipient

    - Jasen's Customs Facebook, it's where the pictures are: Facebook
    - Follow me on Twitter to see what new things I am adding: Twitter
    - Learn something? I try to publish all of my creations and tutorials at: The TechBlog
  • KunikuKuniku Joined: Posts: 351
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    Kuniku wrote: »
    Ah wasn't sure if the neopixel ring would fit in the gap between the plate and the JLF...

    Would that slip ring just "hang" underneath the hollow shaft? I figured I'd need something that would at least "plug in" to the bottom of the shaft? But its cheap enough that providing I can get hold of another RGB LED from paradise arcade without having to get a mortgage to pay for shipping to the UK it could be worth trying...

    Yes it would just sit beneath the shaft because you want the led to spin freely. As for LED it can be any rgb led granted you are willing to wire up the leads.

    I've yet to find anywhere else that sells RGB LEDs with actual wires coming out, the only ones I can find are the ones with pins coming out - which are probably too big for the need and beyond my non-existant soldering capabilities lol
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    Hae anyone installed the kaimana breakout in the panzer 3? I'm looking to install one but not sure how it would interact with the ribbon. Is it possible to ribbon into the kaimana then use the screw terminals to connect to the ufb?

    Dont use the breakout. Just pop it down onto the UFB 20P header then connect the ribbon to the pass through pins on the Mini, assuming it still has the passthrough pins. Alternatively, use a Kaimana Khameleon.

    Like this, you just make a happy kaimana/UFB sandwich and top it with the ribbon.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • Ssj4Crisis_XSsj4Crisis_X Battling Puddies! Joined: Posts: 112
    For the mx cherry switches, are their any clear plungers for artwork?
  • SephirothRKSephirothRK Joined: Posts: 15
    edited April 4
    What the proper way to disconnect these connectors? The 3 pins isn't the problem it's the 4 pin which seems like there is super glue after plugging it in. I can't seem to unplug it.
    uRVAjf8.jpg
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    What the proper way to disconnect these connectors?
    [/quote]

    They are tough at times but you wiggle it a bit back and forth or pry the sides carefully with a flathead screwdriver. I sometimes just yank them out and the connector holds :smile:

    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • 32teeth32teeth Joined: Posts: 902
    Kuniku wrote: »
    Ah wasn't sure if the neopixel ring would fit in the gap between the plate and the JLF...

    Would that slip ring just "hang" underneath the hollow shaft? I figured I'd need something that would at least "plug in" to the bottom of the shaft? But its cheap enough that providing I can get hold of another RGB LED from paradise arcade without having to get a mortgage to pay for shipping to the UK it could be worth trying...

    I recently build some custom plates
    17438476_103551686858368_7726484807877656576_n.jpg

    I'm on instagram



  • SephirothRKSephirothRK Joined: Posts: 15
    edited April 5
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    What the proper way to disconnect these connectors?

    They are tough at times but you wiggle it a bit back and forth or pry the sides carefully with a flathead screwdriver. I sometimes just yank them out and the connector holds :smile:

    Thanks for the reply, I gave up after tearing off the connector from the pcb, at least I bought extra.

    I bought the Brook UFB and Kaimana Khameleon and mounted the Khameleon on the UFB, but it seems that the 20 pin on the Khameleon is thinner than that of the UFB so the 20 pin harness I got from Arcade Shock is very loose and doesn't fit all the way. I already sent a ticket to PAS but I'm wondering if the 20 pin hardness from PAS is any different?
    https://paradisearcadeshop.com/wire-and-power/1664-20-pin-100-fight-stick-harness.html
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    32teeth wrote: »
    Kuniku wrote: »
    Ah wasn't sure if the neopixel ring would fit in the gap between the plate and the JLF...

    Would that slip ring just "hang" underneath the hollow shaft? I figured I'd need something that would at least "plug in" to the bottom of the shaft? But its cheap enough that providing I can get hold of another RGB LED from paradise arcade without having to get a mortgage to pay for shipping to the UK it could be worth trying...

    I recently build some custom plates
    17438476_103551686858368_7726484807877656576_n.jpg

    I'm on instagram



    How does this light up the ball top? I can see the use on an transparent top panel but wouldn't it just light up the bottom of the ball top?
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    What the proper way to disconnect these connectors?

    They are tough at times but you wiggle it a bit back and forth or pry the sides carefully with a flathead screwdriver. I sometimes just yank them out and the connector holds :smile:

    Thanks for the reply, I gave up after tearing off the connector from the pcb, at least I bought extra.

    I bought the Brook UFB and Kaimana Khameleon and mounted the Khameleon on the UFB, but it seems that the 20 pin on the Khameleon is thinner than that of the UFB so the 20 pin harness I got from Arcade Shock is very loose and doesn't fit all the way. I already sent a ticket to PAS but I'm wondering if the 20 pin hardness from PAS is any different?
    https://paradisearcadeshop.com/wire-and-power/1664-20-pin-100-fight-stick-harness.html

    The 20 pin head in the kaimana is a passthrough (like an Arduino shield if you're familiar) so they are different from the ones in the UFB, the connector may not fit completely in however it should still work.

    Is it too loose and coming apart at the smallest pull?
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • m4tth3wm4tth3w Joined: Posts: 12
    edited April 6
    I just found the following:
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    Hey everyone managed to do a quick upload of my tournament mode code. here: https://github.com/javierorosario/kaimana/tree/HoldTMode

    In there you will have two folders, inside them are the libraries and ino files specific for each functionality so its just a matter of replacing (back up yours first) the ones in your Arduino/libraries/Kaimana folder (or create the Kaimana folder if you don't have it) and load the ino file into your arduino ide.

    TournamentModeHolding => Enables/disables tournament mode when holding START for about 2 secs.
    TournamentModePattern => Enables/disables tournament mode when pressing P3+P4 at the same time

    Let me know if it works for you and your thoughts/comments on how to make them better!

    I'm using this following sketch on my hitbox
    But I would like to add Tournament Mode.

    I'd like to be able to switch Tournament Mode on an off by pressing and holding k4 and p4 for 10 seconds.

    Does anyone have a sample code I can use to add this?

    Can I use that ino file with the one my Hitbox is running now to add tournament mode will that work?
    Post edited by m4tth3w on
  • SephirothRKSephirothRK Joined: Posts: 15
    JRDIBBS wrote: »

    The 20 pin head in the kaimana is a passthrough (like an Arduino shield if you're familiar) so they are different from the ones in the UFB, the connector may not fit completely in however it should still work.

    Is it too loose and coming apart at the smallest pull?

    Yes it doesn't fit all the way, and loose. Maybe I have to secure it with some hot glue. Unless I can use the screw terminal in the brook ufb? Will it still trigger with buttons without using the 20 pin passthrough? I will need to do some test. Thanks for the reply.

  • BedrockSolidBedrockSolid Joined: Posts: 1
    edited April 14
    Hello,

    I'm new to the forum, so I'm sorry if I've made a mistake posting here.

    I plan to make a MIDI controller similar to the MIDI Fighter, and I'd like to use the Kaimana J2 RGB LEDs for my purposes. I'm hooking it directly to an Arduino (SainSmart Mega 2560), and I don't mind rewriting code and figuring stuff like that out. However, I do have a few concerns.

    I see that I connect the LEDs via series. Will I be able to program each individual LED and change its color/brightness?

    Also, will I only need the 5V power, ground, and data ports for it to work? Or will I need to use other ports for it?

    Thanks in advance. I may come with questions later, as I figure out how to do this. (I'm new to projects that involve hardware, I've always worked with programming and the most I've really done is build a PC and fry a circuit board with my soldering iron.)
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    m4tth3w wrote: »
    I just found the following:
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    Hey everyone managed to do a quick upload of my tournament mode code. here: https://github.com/javierorosario/kaimana/tree/HoldTMode

    In there you will have two folders, inside them are the libraries and ino files specific for each functionality so its just a matter of replacing (back up yours first) the ones in your Arduino/libraries/Kaimana folder (or create the Kaimana folder if you don't have it) and load the ino file into your arduino ide.

    TournamentModeHolding => Enables/disables tournament mode when holding START for about 2 secs.
    TournamentModePattern => Enables/disables tournament mode when pressing P3+P4 at the same time

    Let me know if it works for you and your thoughts/comments on how to make them better!

    I'm using this following sketch on my hitbox
    But I would like to add Tournament Mode.

    I'd like to be able to switch Tournament Mode on an off by pressing and holding k4 and p4 for 10 seconds.

    Does anyone have a sample code I can use to add this?

    Can I use that ino file with the one my Hitbox is running now to add tournament mode will that work?

    To have that work you would have to use all the files in my solution because it has extra functions for animating the On/OFF functions. I made a very simple one for you to use and its HERE, just copy everything into your example.ino file (delete everything in your ino file first) and it should just work.

    Also, thanks for taking the time to look through the post history, this helps me understand what everyone is looking at and I will update it with the most recent version.
    JRDIBBS wrote: »

    The 20 pin head in the kaimana is a passthrough (like an Arduino shield if you're familiar) so they are different from the ones in the UFB, the connector may not fit completely in however it should still work.

    Is it too loose and coming apart at the smallest pull?

    Yes it doesn't fit all the way, and loose. Maybe I have to secure it with some hot glue. Unless I can use the screw terminal in the brook ufb? Will it still trigger with buttons without using the 20 pin passthrough? I will need to do some test. Thanks for the reply.

    A bead of hot glue is never a bad idea if you can confirm your setup works! The 20pin and screw headers are connected to allow you to use either when connecting buttons. Let us know what you find!
    Hello,

    I'm new to the forum, so I'm sorry if I've made a mistake posting here.

    I plan to make a MIDI controller similar to the MIDI Fighter, and I'd like to use the Kaimana J2 RGB LEDs for my purposes. I'm hooking it directly to an Arduino (SainSmart Mega 2560), and I don't mind rewriting code and figuring stuff like that out. However, I do have a few concerns.

    I see that I connect the LEDs via series. Will I be able to program each individual LED and change its color/brightness?

    Also, will I only need the 5V power, ground, and data ports for it to work? Or will I need to use other ports for it?

    Thanks in advance. I may come with questions later, as I figure out how to do this. (I'm new to projects that involve hardware, I've always worked with programming and the most I've really done is build a PC and fry a circuit board with my soldering iron.)

    The Kaimana Js are based on the WS2811 LED driver so each one has an individual address so yes you can control them individually. You only need a power source, GND and Data pin on the Arduino to make them work. Your project might be a bit out of scope of the purpose of the forum but I'll try to help out as much as I can.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    ON a separate note, we've been slowly adding articles to our support site and I just added some info on Tournament mode. Let me know of anything you would like more info on!

    http://support.paradisearcadeshop.com/support/solutions/articles/14000060809-kaimanas-and-tournament-mode-tmode-night-mode
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • SephirothRKSephirothRK Joined: Posts: 15
    Sorry, I actually finished the mod, I secured led to the button with scotch tape(will use hot glue if it's too much trouble). Since I bought the 20 wire harness, I decided to go with that instead of screw terminals. Put the 20 pin in the header and put a line of hot glue so they don't disconnect. I also realized that the Khameleon on top of the Brook UFB made it tall enough that made closing the top was a bit difficult so I bent the wires going out of the 20 pin. Overall little messy, but all good. Will provide pictures later today when i get a chance.
  • JayduckyJayducky Stupid Questions---> Joined: Posts: 736
    Question: Is this thread simply for Kaimana? Or, anything Pradise arcade related?
    Step 1: Put a hole in the box.
  • SephirothRKSephirothRK Joined: Posts: 15
    The stick
    https://imgur.com/gallery/1vcUn

    Thanks for the help, JRDIBBS.
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    edited April 20
    Jayducky wrote: »
    Question: Is this thread simply for Kaimana? Or, anything Pradise arcade related?

    Its only Kaimana related, you can find the main PAS thread HERE!
    The stick
    https://imgur.com/gallery/1vcUn

    Thanks for the help, JRDIBBS.
    Looking good, now you can obsess over animating it :smiley:

    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • SephirothRKSephirothRK Joined: Posts: 15
    edited April 23
    I wonder if anyone can explain this one to me. Why is it that when I have the Khameleon connected on top of the UFB, the home button need more force on the Home button for it to work? I took off the Khameleon and the home button could be press with ease.

    EDIT: I'm using the stock panel for the te home turbo panel(the rubber plastic button. )

    Could it be it's somehow connected to the combo(Home+K1)? or something with the pcb.

    Update: using a regular button as home works ok, but the home panel is still acting weird. The wires I solder to the panel are,(Players LED, Home, VCC,Ground, and Lock switch for start and select. They work fine without the Khameleon, something is up. The home button, select and start makes the led blink when idle animation is on. Applying more than normal force on the home button makes the led blink, that way i know when the home button is registered.
    Post edited by SephirothRK on
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 21,584
    I wonder if anyone can explain this one to me. Why is it that when I have the Khameleon connected on top of the UFB, the home button need more force on the Home button for it to work? I took off the Khameleon and the home button could be press with ease.

    EDIT: I'm using the stock panel for the te home turbo panel(the rubber plastic button. )

    Could it be it's somehow connected to the combo(Home+K1)? or something with the pcb.

    Update: using a regular button as home works ok, but the home panel is still acting weird. The wires I solder to the panel are,(Players LED, Home, VCC,Ground, and Lock switch for start and select. They work fine without the Khameleon, something is up. The home button, select and start makes the led blink when idle animation is on. Applying more than normal force on the home button makes the led blink, that way i know when the home button is registered.

    What the inside of your stick look like, do you have photos?
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • m4tth3wm4tth3w Joined: Posts: 12

    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    ON a separate note, we've been slowly adding articles to our support site and I just added some info on Tournament mode. Let me know of anything you would like more info on!

    http://support.paradisearcadeshop.com/support/solutions/articles/14000060809-kaimanas-and-tournament-mode-tmode-night-mode

    Excellent!

    I saw your reply to my question too.

    I'll give it a go, it looks like it's easy to roll back to what I'm using now if I make a mistake.

    Thank you for for the help.
  • SephirothRKSephirothRK Joined: Posts: 15
    edited April 25
    Darksakul wrote: »
    I wonder if anyone can explain this one to me. Why is it that when I have the Khameleon connected on top of the UFB, the home button need more force on the Home button for it to work? I took off the Khameleon and the home button could be press with ease.

    EDIT: I'm using the stock panel for the te home turbo panel(the rubber plastic button. )

    Could it be it's somehow connected to the combo(Home+K1)? or something with the pcb.

    Update: using a regular button as home works ok, but the home panel is still acting weird. The wires I solder to the panel are,(Players LED, Home, VCC,Ground, and Lock switch for start and select. They work fine without the Khameleon, something is up. The home button, select and start makes the led blink when idle animation is on. Applying more than normal force on the home button makes the led blink, that way i know when the home button is registered.

    What the inside of your stick look like, do you have photos?

    http://imgur.com/3fshMXZ

    VCC, ground and home button are screwed in via terminal on ufb from the panel.

    Update: Using a multimeter, regardless of khameleon mounted or not, it only beep when I apply hard pressure but works fine when I plugged it in the ps4 without khameleon.

    Hooking it up to usb hid test program.

    Test 1: Without mounted Khamelon on UFB: press home button normally works normally(00>01)
    unplug usb

    Test 2: Mount Khamelon on UFB: Need to press hard to even register 01. Weird shit.

    Why would adding the Khameleon make a conductive button harder to press to register?

    I would say the panel is the problem, I would need to check my soldering again.

    Update: http://imgur.com/KZtH9Dr for back of panel soldering
    Post edited by SephirothRK on
  • ThePeterMissileThePeterMissile Joined: Posts: 13
    Hi, I would appreciate any help I can get. I have a Kaimana Mini hooked to a Brook UFB with GumMods TZPZ to a TE2 with J2 LEDs. After hooking everything up, using the WebKit for the Khameleon, and changing the LED layout like in the guide, everything works how it should except LED 8 on my K4 stays red on push when it should be random. The other LED on the button changes as it should.
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    edited June 7
    Hello everyone! I have been MIA for some time (though you can reach me through support.paradisearcade.com), but I've been cooking and you get to enjoy it! After some time helping out with kaimana code and solving issues we have decided to take a proactive step and release a new base Kaimana code! This is specifically for builds that use the new Kaimana J2s, and we think it's a good base build for people to start tinkering.

    Main changes:

    * Kaimana J2 Support

    * Tournament Mode functionality
      * Hold K1 for about 2 seconds and you should see the activation/deactivation animation play
    * New Startup Animations
      * See animations.cpp, to select a different one remove the double slash "//" from the front of the line and add them to the line you dont want to use.
    * New Idle Animations
      * Hold HOME+START for a second to cycle through them, you should see the LEDs flash white.

    Our first build is designed for the following wiring setup:

    KAIMANA->LED-K1->LED_K2->LED_K3->LED_K4->LED-P4->LED_P3->LED-P2->LED_P1->LED_SELECT ->LED_HOME->LED_START

    We hope you like this new code base, we are building additional layout support (Only top buttons, 6 button, hitbox, ect) so stay tuned for more code.

    There is a very special project in the slowcooker that should help to build custom layouts and colors. More to follow!

    As always, either drop a note here or through the support site with any questions/comments. I would love to hear what you would like to see implemented and what ideas we could bring to life!

    The wiki in the support section is slowly growing, i am combing through the forum to add all the information that we can in there so everyone can go there for the FAQ.

    Download Here!
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    Hi, I would appreciate any help I can get. I have a Kaimana Mini hooked to a Brook UFB with GumMods TZPZ to a TE2 with J2 LEDs. After hooking everything up, using the WebKit for the Khameleon, and changing the LED layout like in the guide, everything works how it should except LED 8 on my K4 stays red on push when it should be random. The other LED on the button changes as it should.

    Check if the new base build works for you, details above.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 436
    Update time!

    I put up 3 new layouts for the J2s in GitHub. They are pretty self explanatory:

    * 8btnNoJoyNoMenu - just the 8 action buttons (Ps and Ks)
    * 8btnNoJoyWithMenu - 8 action buttons and menus (Home,ST,SEL)
    * 8btnWithJoyNoMenu - 8 action buttons and Joystick

    I am going to post the Hitbox variant layout soon, let me know if there's anything you are interested in doing!
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
Sign In or Register to comment.