Kaimana RGB LED Board thread, RGB animations and more! SRK Tech Talk 2013 Product of the Year!

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  • YojimbroYojimbro Joined: Posts: 5
    edited October 2016
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    It sound like either too much power draw (are you using a relatively modern computer?) or a crossed connection (triple check that din-dout). Can you plug just 1 J and see if it turns on?

    Okay so, looked over the string again and it is all right, tried the single Kaimana J and its also not working.
    I have been using these pre-made wiring harnesses - I'll take a picture of how they line-up, maybe they're the problem?
    lHCEj6j.jpg
    rraK3Za.png
    UPDATE: I switched the blue and green wires on one half so the harness was mirrored, first J i tried it with didn't take out the board LEDs but didn't light up either HOWEVER the second one I tested did - sadly this does mean I have a defective Kaimana J. Thank you for the help, I've basically gotten it hammered out now.

    UPDATE 2: Now I cannot get the Khameleon to go into Kaimana mode - it seems stuck on ps360 so I can't modify the code. I've tried it plugged in the PS360 and removed, and both of those with the LEDs in and removed for a total of 4 combinations with no luck, any ideas?
    Post edited by Yojimbro on
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 474
    @armi0024. @Jasen Hicks does this look like a dead board? I'm afraid you might have fried something with the crossed wires.
    Yojimbro wrote: »
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    It sound like either too much power draw (are you using a relatively modern computer?) or a crossed connection (triple check that din-dout). Can you plug just 1 J and see if it turns on?

    Okay so, looked over the string again and it is all right, tried the single Kaimana J and its also not working.
    I have been using these pre-made wiring harnesses - I'll take a picture of how they line-up, maybe they're the problem?
    lHCEj6j.jpg
    rraK3Za.png
    UPDATE: I switched the blue and green wires on one half so the harness was mirrored, first J i tried it with didn't take out the board LEDs but didn't light up either HOWEVER the second one I tested did - sadly this does mean I have a defective Kaimana J. Thank you for the help, I've basically gotten it hammered out now.

    UPDATE 2: Now I cannot get the Khameleon to go into Kaimana mode - it seems stuck on ps360 so I can't modify the code. I've tried it plugged in the PS360 and removed, and both of those with the LEDs in and removed for a total of 4 combinations with no luck, any ideas?

    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • YojimbroYojimbro Joined: Posts: 5
    edited October 2016
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    @armi0024. @Jasen Hicks does this look like a dead board? I'm afraid you might have fried something with the crossed wires.
    Got the board to switch over using K1 + Home - LEDs are working now but getting them to properly operate is very odd.
    Using the brightcade freestick web kit code makes each button press activate 2 J's ie:
    K4 button -> K4 and K3 LED
    K3 button -> K2 and K1 LED
    K2 button -> P1 and P2 LED
    K1 button -> P3 and P4 LED

    Anyone have this problem before? I tried re-numbering both to the same index # as in K4 and K4B both 1 but that also had some problems.

    Update: Even more confusing, now the PC will not recognize my stick (Unknown device) no matter what when plugged in using the neutrix ethernet to USB BUT when plugged in using the khameleon it will recognize and list it as PS360+ v1.4 in devices. Things are weirder by the minute.
    Post edited by Yojimbro on
  • NoryiaNoryia Joined: Posts: 53
    Yojimbro wrote: »
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    @armi0024. @Jasen Hicks does this look like a dead board? I'm afraid you might have fried something with the crossed wires.
    Got the board to switch over using K1 + Home - LEDs are working now but getting them to properly operate is very odd.
    Using the brightcade freestick web kit code makes each button press activate 2 J's ie:
    K4 button -> K4 and K3 LED
    K3 button -> K2 and K1 LED
    K2 button -> P1 and P2 LED
    K1 button -> P3 and P4 LED

    Anyone have this problem before? I tried re-numbering both to the same index # as in K4 and K4B both 1 but that also had some problems.

    Update: Even more confusing, now the PC will not recognize my stick (Unknown device) no matter what when plugged in using the neutrix ethernet to USB BUT when plugged in using the khameleon it will recognize and list it as PS360+ v1.4 in devices. Things are weirder by the minute.

    The brightstick site has code for J2s and you're using J LEDs. The J2s have two index-able LEDs andare coded separately. If you look at kaimana_custom.h there is a section called LED INDEX and each direction has two LEDs.

    Example from the Hitbox version.
    #define  LED_K1         2
    #define  LED_K1_B       3
    #define  LED_K2         4
    #define  LED_K2_B       5
    #define  LED_K3         6
    #define  LED_K3_B       7
    #define  LED_K4         8
    #define  LED_K4_B       9
    #define  LED_P4         10
    #define  LED_P4_B       11
    #define  LED_P3         12
    #define  LED_P3_B       13
    #define  LED_P2         14    
    #define  LED_P2_B       15
    #define  LED_P1         16
    #define  LED_P1_B       17
    

    I think you'd want the older code referenced earlier in this thread.
  • YojimbroYojimbro Joined: Posts: 5
    edited October 2016
    Noryia wrote: »
    The brightstick site has code for J2s and you're using J LEDs. The J2s have two index-able LEDs andare coded separately. If you look at kaimana_custom.h there is a section called LED INDEX and each direction has two LEDs.

    I think you'd want the older code referenced earlier in this thread.

    Thanks! With a bit of changes to the older code I got exactly what I wanted with the LEDs.
    I even fixed the unkown device error, tried a handful of driver tricks, USB hubs, etc and none of it worked BUT rolling the majority of the RJ45-to-USB cord up in a loop and tying it so it stayed wound somehow fixed it - must be blocking noise better or something.
    Thank you everyone.
    Post edited by Yojimbro on
  • IlluvatarIlluvatar Joined: Posts: 5
    Good day,

    I would like to be able to toggle the LED lighting on and off on the fly, by using a toggle switch with a Kaimana LED Controller Board running with Power Zones 1 + 2 Bridged.

    If one was to connect the common ground running from the DO harness (Data Out) of the Kaimana Board to a switch that can be toggled open/close, then to the DI point of the first LED along the chain; would this be a sensible means to toggle the lighting on and off on the board?

    I would like to be able to avoid frying any components in the stick, or the Kaimana board and LED's, so was just wondering whether cutting off ground would be an effective and safe way of having this feature on the fly (i.e. toggle switch). Or would this configuration just disable LED actuation on button press, while leaving buttons and stick on whatever "default" illumination they been setup to.

    Alternatively should I instead run the VCC 5V power through the toggle switch, before it supplies the Kaimana Board itself? And in this way cut-off power to the board and hence LED's.

    Thanks
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 474
    edited October 2016
    Noryia wrote: »
    snip
    I think you'd want the older code referenced earlier in this thread.

    Great catch!
    Illuvatar wrote: »
    Good day,

    I would like to be able to toggle the LED lighting on and off on the fly, by using a toggle switch with a Kaimana LED Controller Board running with Power Zones 1 + 2 Bridged.

    If one was to connect the common ground running from the DO harness (Data Out) of the Kaimana Board to a switch that can be toggled open/close, then to the DI point of the first LED along the chain; would this be a sensible means to toggle the lighting on and off on the board?

    I would like to be able to avoid frying any components in the stick, or the Kaimana board and LED's, so was just wondering whether cutting off ground would be an effective and safe way of having this feature on the fly (i.e. toggle switch). Or would this configuration just disable LED actuation on button press, while leaving buttons and stick on whatever "default" illumination they been setup to.

    Alternatively should I instead run the VCC 5V power through the toggle switch, before it supplies the Kaimana Board itself? And in this way cut-off power to the board and hence LED's.

    Thanks

    Do the 5v through the toogle, you can do it at the board level or betweem the board and the leds. Though at the board level will have better behaviour.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • DJ DivineDJ Divine Cream Puff King of Wu-Kang Clan Joined: Posts: 1,005
    edited October 2016
    cross-posting from PAS thread.

    i was messing w/ a neopixel ring to light up under the joystick hole ( @Jasen Hicks made a post about it a long time ago that i found and wanted to re-create).

    inside of my new stick case that i'm using, there wasn't enough clearance for me to mount the kaimana mini on top of brook UFB and close the case. so, i got a 2x10pin ribbon cable and connected it instead. then, once i got the neopixel ring connected after the 8th kaimana j2, it worked for a while, and made the whole stick turn off, presumably due to lack of power.

    from what i've read before on PAS or other threads, kaimana mini should be able to power tons of LEDs right? not sure why this happened to me, maybe it's the ribbon cable? it has a female connector on both ends, does that matter? if the neopixel ring indeed takes up too much power, i suppose using the 5V VCC screw terminal from the brook UFB (one used for optical joysticks that's usually left empty) would be the solution?
    not "devine"
  • igloo77055igloo77055 Joined: Posts: 36
    JRDIBBS wrote: »

    One of us, one of us, one of us...

    In other of news, I got an indexable LED strip and am driving 30 leds succesfully! Trying anything above that causes issues which im sure is all code based but real life is happening so i only work 15 mins on them some days. Anyone get their stuff working?

    Oh man, where'd you get them? It wasn't just plug and play was it? Was thinking about getting some from Cable Mods
  • 32teeth32teeth Joined: Posts: 909
    DJ Divine wrote: »
    cross-posting from PAS thread.

    i was messing w/ a neopixel ring to light up under the joystick hole ( @Jasen Hicks made a post about it a long time ago that i found and wanted to re-create).

    inside of my new stick case that i'm using, there wasn't enough clearance for me to mount the kaimana mini on top of brook UFB and close the case. so, i got a 2x10pin ribbon cable and connected it instead. then, once i got the neopixel ring connected after the 8th kaimana j2, it worked for a while, and made the whole stick turn off, presumably due to lack of power.

    from what i've read before on PAS or other threads, kaimana mini should be able to power tons of LEDs right? not sure why this happened to me, maybe it's the ribbon cable? it has a female connector on both ends, does that matter? if the neopixel ring indeed takes up too much power, i suppose using the 5V VCC screw terminal from the brook UFB (one used for optical joysticks that's usually left empty) would be the solution?

    From a few years ago
    32teeth wrote: »
    @armi0024‌ with some extra code using a Kaimana you can do this as well
    13974305696_42250c9f51.jpg

    This is the 16 pixel ring, that means 16 additional LEDs, they can't be treated as 1 address, you'll need to get creative with your code to output based on your directional inputs

    i can help if you need

  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,387
    edited October 2016
    igloo77055 wrote: »
    JRDIBBS wrote: »

    One of us, one of us, one of us...

    In other of news, I got an indexable LED strip and am driving 30 leds succesfully! Trying anything above that causes issues which im sure is all code based but real life is happening so i only work 15 mins on them some days. Anyone get their stuff working?

    Oh man, where'd you get them? It wasn't just plug and play was it? Was thinking about getting some from Cable Mods

    Amazon sells strips of them for cheap.

    @DJ Divine - USB only supports 500mA. I found that a Kaimana Khameleon and PS360+ can inrush up to 472mA of current upon power up (all Lights lit, 23 LEDs). Add a few more and you are quickly going to overload the USB spec. That's likely what happened here.
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year Co-Recipient

    Have a question? Use the JASENSCUSTOMS HELP DESK

    - Jasen's Customs Facebook, it's where the pictures are: Facebook
    - Follow me on Twitter to see what new things I am adding: Twitter
    - Learn something? I try to publish all of my creations and tutorials at: The TechBlog
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 24,289
    I found for some heavy duty lighting, you want to go with an auxiliary power supply just for the lights
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 474
    igloo77055 wrote: »
    JRDIBBS wrote: »

    One of us, one of us, one of us...

    In other of news, I got an indexable LED strip and am driving 30 leds succesfully! Trying anything above that causes issues which im sure is all code based but real life is happening so i only work 15 mins on them some days. Anyone get their stuff working?

    Oh man, where'd you get them? It wasn't just plug and play was it? Was thinking about getting some from Cable Mods

    Amazon sells strips of them for cheap.

    @DJ Divine - USB only supports 500mA. I found that a Kaimana Khameleon and PS360+ can inrush up to 472mA of current upon power up (all Lights lit, 23 LEDs). Add a few more and you are quickly going to overload the USB spec. That's likely what happened here.
    Darksakul wrote: »
    I found for some heavy duty lighting, you want to go with an auxiliary power supply just for the lights

    I have an external power supply (albeit a cheap one) and will test this out!
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • DJ DivineDJ Divine Cream Puff King of Wu-Kang Clan Joined: Posts: 1,005
    edited October 2016
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    igloo77055 wrote: »
    JRDIBBS wrote: »

    One of us, one of us, one of us...

    In other of news, I got an indexable LED strip and am driving 30 leds succesfully! Trying anything above that causes issues which im sure is all code based but real life is happening so i only work 15 mins on them some days. Anyone get their stuff working?

    Oh man, where'd you get them? It wasn't just plug and play was it? Was thinking about getting some from Cable Mods

    Amazon sells strips of them for cheap.

    @DJ Divine - USB only supports 500mA. I found that a Kaimana Khameleon and PS360+ can inrush up to 472mA of current upon power up (all Lights lit, 23 LEDs). Add a few more and you are quickly going to overload the USB spec. That's likely what happened here.
    Darksakul wrote: »
    I found for some heavy duty lighting, you want to go with an auxiliary power supply just for the lights

    I have an external power supply (albeit a cheap one) and will test this out!

    thanks guys for all your responses.

    @Jasen Hicks if 23 LEDs is max, my neopixel ring having 16 LEDs must've been why this happened.

    EDIT: since the kaimana j2's each have 2 LEDs, buttons alone are 16 LEDs already. i think i'll reprogram them to only light 1 LED per button, and on the neopixel ring, only light up every other LED. that should do the trick, i think.
    not "devine"
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,387
    23 isn't MAX necessarily, it just is a good bench mark for them to be at 100% power. Try dividing your color values by 10 (so 24 24 24 instead of 240 240 240) dimming them which will draw less amperage.
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year Co-Recipient

    Have a question? Use the JASENSCUSTOMS HELP DESK

    - Jasen's Customs Facebook, it's where the pictures are: Facebook
    - Follow me on Twitter to see what new things I am adding: Twitter
    - Learn something? I try to publish all of my creations and tutorials at: The TechBlog
  • 32teeth32teeth Joined: Posts: 909
    @Jasen Hicks @armi0024

    I have a client with both Kaimana mini and Khameleon

    After installing the Khameleon, I'd like to know more about the "additional" features originally teased at

    I am familiar that the 32u4 chip when switch to arduino using the on board button does.

    What does the othe MCU do? How can we access it?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,387
    32teeth wrote: »
    @Jasen Hicks @armi0024

    I have a client with both Kaimana mini and Khameleon

    After installing the Khameleon, I'd like to know more about the "additional" features originally teased at

    I am familiar that the 32u4 chip when switch to arduino using the on board button does.

    What does the othe MCU do? How can we access it?

    The other MCU is not accessible. It only deals with the USB switching function of the Kaimana Khameleon.
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year Co-Recipient

    Have a question? Use the JASENSCUSTOMS HELP DESK

    - Jasen's Customs Facebook, it's where the pictures are: Facebook
    - Follow me on Twitter to see what new things I am adding: Twitter
    - Learn something? I try to publish all of my creations and tutorials at: The TechBlog
  • 32teeth32teeth Joined: Posts: 909
    edited October 2016
    The other MCU is not accessible. It only deals with the USB switching function of the Kaimana Khameleon.

    Is it a straight passthrough?
    If i have it connected to a brooks, can i access the brooks commands on boot?
    Outside of the onboard switch, is there a soft key for switching between modes?

  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,387
    The USB defaults to the System PCB like the Brook or PS360+. It only switches to Kaimana mode when commanded to do so via the switch on board or pressing HOME+K1 at the same time. To prevent it from switching rapidly, it has a minute time out to prevent a switch after it has been switched once.
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year Co-Recipient

    Have a question? Use the JASENSCUSTOMS HELP DESK

    - Jasen's Customs Facebook, it's where the pictures are: Facebook
    - Follow me on Twitter to see what new things I am adding: Twitter
    - Learn something? I try to publish all of my creations and tutorials at: The TechBlog
  • KunikuKuniku Joined: Posts: 351
    @JRDIBBS Sorry for the delay, my computer decided it didn't want to USB any more, so had to fix that before i could test my joystick LED.

    It seems to work! Joystick lights up, and changes upon directional input!

    Using the following definitions and index:
    //ON BUTTON STATE
    #define LED_JOY_COLOR_ON 255,0,255
    #define LED_P1_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_P2_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_P3_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_P4_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_K1_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_K2_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_K3_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_K4_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_SELECT_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_HOME_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_START_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    
    
    //OFF BUTTON STATE 
    #define LED_JOY_COLOR_OFF 0,255,0
    #define LED_P1_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_P2_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_P3_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_P4_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_K1_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_K2_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_K3_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_K4_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_SELECT_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_HOME_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_START_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    
    //LED INDEX
    #define  LED_P4         0xFF
    #define  LED_P4_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_P3         0xFF
    #define  LED_P3_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_P2         0xFF    
    #define  LED_P2_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_P1         0xFF
    #define  LED_P1_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_JOY        0    
    #define  LED_K4         0xFF        
    #define  LED_K4_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_K3         0xFF 
    #define  LED_K3_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_K2         0xFF
    #define  LED_K2_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_K1         0xFF
    #define  LED_K1_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_SELECT     0xFF
    #define  LED_SELECT_B   0xFF
    #define  LED_HOME       0xFF
    #define  LED_HOME_B     0xFF
    #define  LED_START      0xFF
    #define  LED_START_B    0xFF
    #define  LED_COUNT      0xFF
    

    That is with only the joystick LED plugged in, the chain of J2s wasn't even plugged in.

    Interestingly, if I plug the chain of J2s into the adaptor and use the same code it doesn't seem to play ball... Although everything should be off except the joystick. everything lights up =/

    It would appear that the idle animation kicks in with everything, and then when I move the joystick the joystick LED works correctly, but all the button LEDs simply stop their idle animation where they are. Also when I move the joystick one of the LEDs on P1 activates as well. Finally if I interupt the idle animation with a button press, everything goes in techno epilepsy mode and starts flashing different colours while the button is pressed.

    I'm getting more and more confused with all this =/
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 474
    edited October 2016
    Kuniku wrote: »
    @JRDIBBS Sorry for the delay, my computer decided it didn't want to USB any more, so had to fix that before i could test my joystick LED.

    It seems to work! Joystick lights up, and changes upon directional input!

    Using the following definitions and index:
    //ON BUTTON STATE
    #define LED_JOY_COLOR_ON 255,0,255
    #define LED_P1_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_P2_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_P3_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_P4_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_K1_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_K2_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_K3_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_K4_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_SELECT_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_HOME_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    #define LED_START_COLOR_ON 0,0,0
    
    
    //OFF BUTTON STATE 
    #define LED_JOY_COLOR_OFF 0,255,0
    #define LED_P1_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_P2_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_P3_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_P4_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_K1_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_K2_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_K3_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_K4_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_SELECT_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_HOME_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    #define LED_START_COLOR_OFF 0,0,0
    
    //LED INDEX
    #define  LED_P4         0xFF
    #define  LED_P4_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_P3         0xFF
    #define  LED_P3_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_P2         0xFF    
    #define  LED_P2_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_P1         0xFF
    #define  LED_P1_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_JOY        0    
    #define  LED_K4         0xFF        
    #define  LED_K4_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_K3         0xFF 
    #define  LED_K3_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_K2         0xFF
    #define  LED_K2_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_K1         0xFF
    #define  LED_K1_B       0xFF
    #define  LED_SELECT     0xFF
    #define  LED_SELECT_B   0xFF
    #define  LED_HOME       0xFF
    #define  LED_HOME_B     0xFF
    #define  LED_START      0xFF
    #define  LED_START_B    0xFF
    #define  LED_COUNT      0xFF
    

    OK so I downloaded brightstick code and I think I see the issue. You will need to insert the joystick line with the 0xff and have the sequence skip a number this is the way Jasen is handling it.

    Say you have the joy between p4 and k1 so it would be

    P4 = 4
    Joy = 0xff
    K1= 6

    Enable all the leds again and set the joy as above, also delete the start home select lines if you don't use them at all. And don't mess with led_count until you remove the menu leds then you just subtract the number of leds (6) from the number in led count.

    One last thing if it gets too crazy re-download a clean copy from brightstick.
    Post edited by JRDIBBS on
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
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    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • KunikuKuniku Joined: Posts: 351
    But don't I need the Joy set as a number for it to be included within the indexing?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,387
    Kuniku wrote: »
    But don't I need the Joy set as a number for it to be included within the indexing?

    Yes, you should set it to a number. Here's why:

    The logical test in the code first says "Hey, the joystick is being pressed... light up this LED" then it says "Hey, this button is pressed, light up this LED and the one next to it". You can see this in kaimana.cpp:
      if(index == LED_JOY)
      {
        index = 8;
       _led[index].r = iR*BRIGHTNESS;
       _led[index].g = iG*BRIGHTNESS;
       _led[index].b = iB*BRIGHTNESS;
      }
      else
      {
    
         _led[index].r = iR*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index].g = iG*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index].b = iB*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index+ 1].r = iR*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index+ 1].g = iG*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index+ 1].b = iB*BRIGHTNESS;
       }
    

    NOTE: This is the PFS2.0 specific code from the BrightStick site where the JOY is the 9th LED in the series ( but really indexed value of 8 because in programming arrays starts with 0). So for non Panzer installs (or installs that dont follow my PFS2 LED scheme) can remove the line:
    index=8;
    

    since you will set the LED index for LED_JOY properly. You could also just update that line to have the correct index number for your case, but that would be redundant. If you remove it though, the code will take the index value and use it properly lighting the LED up in the joystick.

    Here's what's going on:

    It has to do it this way (handle the JOY LED first in all cases, hence an IF->ELSE statemnt) because the LEDs are in series with two per button. If you just set the JOY to a number and follow the same logic it will light one of the LEDs on button A and then the next LED on button B for Kaimana Js installed after the JOYSTICK and nobody wants that.

    In the case of the Panzer 2 setup, the first LED set in the string is for K4. So you have the single button:

    ********
    * *
    * K4 *
    * *
    ********

    With the pair of LEDs under it:

    (LED 0 --> LED 1)

    The code I mention above says: set LED at position 0 to "R" "G" "B" values (with some brightness modification) and then set the LED one position down the line (in this case LED 1, which is the other half of the K4 button lighting and evident by [index+1] ) to the same value WHEN K1 is pressed.

    Now... let's think forward to K1 the JOYSTICK and P1. The LEDs are setup such that:


    |--- KICK 1---| | JOY | |---PUNCH 1---|

    LED 6 --> LED 7 --> LED 8 --> LED 9 --> LED 10

    With the code above, it does it right. You press one of the directions on the Joystick, the code senses those digital pins and says "Hey! Light up the LED Joy at this index and only at this one index".... so it passes the index number (via some complex code in the .ino file) to the block of code. Since the index is the JOY index it enters that first "if" statement and then lights up the correct LED completely bypassing the else statement like it didn't exist.

    Say, for example, we didn't have that first "if" statement in there and the code within the "else" brackets was the only bit in this function....

    It would pass the index for the JOY, 8 in our case, and light up LED 8 AND LED 9. So the JOY LED would light and then the bottom half of PUNCH 1's Kaimana J would light up. WHOOPS!

    Hopefully this demystifys some of the magic happening here.

    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
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    Have a question? Use the JASENSCUSTOMS HELP DESK

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  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 474
    Kuniku wrote: »
    But don't I need the Joy set as a number for it to be included within the indexing?

    Yes, you should set it to a number. Here's why:

    The logical test in the code first says "Hey, the joystick is being pressed... light up this LED" then it says "Hey, this button is pressed, light up this LED and the one next to it". You can see this in kaimana.cpp:
      if(index == LED_JOY)
      {
        index = 8;
       _led[index].r = iR*BRIGHTNESS;
       _led[index].g = iG*BRIGHTNESS;
       _led[index].b = iB*BRIGHTNESS;
      }
      else
      {
    
         _led[index].r = iR*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index].g = iG*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index].b = iB*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index+ 1].r = iR*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index+ 1].g = iG*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index+ 1].b = iB*BRIGHTNESS;
       }
    

    NOTE: This is the PFS2.0 specific code from the BrightStick site where the JOY is the 9th LED in the series ( but really indexed value of 8 because in programming arrays starts with 0). So for non Panzer installs (or installs that dont follow my PFS2 LED scheme) can remove the line:
    index=8;
    

    since you will set the LED index for LED_JOY properly. You could also just update that line to have the correct index number for your case, but that would be redundant. If you remove it though, the code will take the index value and use it properly lighting the LED up in the joystick.

    Here's what's going on:

    It has to do it this way (handle the JOY LED first in all cases, hence an IF->ELSE statemnt) because the LEDs are in series with two per button. If you just set the JOY to a number and follow the same logic it will light one of the LEDs on button A and then the next LED on button B for Kaimana Js installed after the JOYSTICK and nobody wants that.

    In the case of the Panzer 2 setup, the first LED set in the string is for K4. So you have the single button:

    ********
    * *
    * K4 *
    * *
    ********

    With the pair of LEDs under it:

    (LED 0 --> LED 1)

    The code I mention above says: set LED at position 0 to "R" "G" "B" values (with some brightness modification) and then set the LED one position down the line (in this case LED 1, which is the other half of the K4 button lighting and evident by [index+1] ) to the same value WHEN K1 is pressed.

    Now... let's think forward to K1 the JOYSTICK and P1. The LEDs are setup such that:


    |--- KICK 1---| | JOY | |---PUNCH 1---|

    LED 6 --> LED 7 --> LED 8 --> LED 9 --> LED 10

    With the code above, it does it right. You press one of the directions on the Joystick, the code senses those digital pins and says "Hey! Light up the LED Joy at this index and only at this one index".... so it passes the index number (via some complex code in the .ino file) to the block of code. Since the index is the JOY index it enters that first "if" statement and then lights up the correct LED completely bypassing the else statement like it didn't exist.

    Say, for example, we didn't have that first "if" statement in there and the code within the "else" brackets was the only bit in this function....

    It would pass the index for the JOY, 8 in our case, and light up LED 8 AND LED 9. So the JOY LED would light and then the bottom half of PUNCH 1's Kaimana J would light up. WHOOPS!

    Hopefully this demystifys some of the magic happening here.

    So that's where it is! I keep forgetting that brightstick is panzer specific also. Thanks for the info, another way in which we can play with this!

    I have the skeleton of a generic j2 library in my github but need to get that board working!
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • KunikuKuniku Joined: Posts: 351
    Kuniku wrote: »
    But don't I need the Joy set as a number for it to be included within the indexing?

    Yes, you should set it to a number. Here's why:

    The logical test in the code first says "Hey, the joystick is being pressed... light up this LED" then it says "Hey, this button is pressed, light up this LED and the one next to it". You can see this in kaimana.cpp:
      if(index == LED_JOY)
      {
        index = 8;
       _led[index].r = iR*BRIGHTNESS;
       _led[index].g = iG*BRIGHTNESS;
       _led[index].b = iB*BRIGHTNESS;
      }
      else
      {
    
         _led[index].r = iR*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index].g = iG*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index].b = iB*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index+ 1].r = iR*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index+ 1].g = iG*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index+ 1].b = iB*BRIGHTNESS;
       }
    

    NOTE: This is the PFS2.0 specific code from the BrightStick site where the JOY is the 9th LED in the series ( but really indexed value of 8 because in programming arrays starts with 0). So for non Panzer installs (or installs that dont follow my PFS2 LED scheme) can remove the line:
    index=8;
    

    since you will set the LED index for LED_JOY properly. You could also just update that line to have the correct index number for your case, but that would be redundant. If you remove it though, the code will take the index value and use it properly lighting the LED up in the joystick.

    Here's what's going on:

    It has to do it this way (handle the JOY LED first in all cases, hence an IF->ELSE statemnt) because the LEDs are in series with two per button. If you just set the JOY to a number and follow the same logic it will light one of the LEDs on button A and then the next LED on button B for Kaimana Js installed after the JOYSTICK and nobody wants that.

    In the case of the Panzer 2 setup, the first LED set in the string is for K4. So you have the single button:

    ********
    * *
    * K4 *
    * *
    ********

    With the pair of LEDs under it:

    (LED 0 --> LED 1)

    The code I mention above says: set LED at position 0 to "R" "G" "B" values (with some brightness modification) and then set the LED one position down the line (in this case LED 1, which is the other half of the K4 button lighting and evident by [index+1] ) to the same value WHEN K1 is pressed.

    Now... let's think forward to K1 the JOYSTICK and P1. The LEDs are setup such that:


    |--- KICK 1---| | JOY | |---PUNCH 1---|

    LED 6 --> LED 7 --> LED 8 --> LED 9 --> LED 10

    With the code above, it does it right. You press one of the directions on the Joystick, the code senses those digital pins and says "Hey! Light up the LED Joy at this index and only at this one index".... so it passes the index number (via some complex code in the .ino file) to the block of code. Since the index is the JOY index it enters that first "if" statement and then lights up the correct LED completely bypassing the else statement like it didn't exist.

    Say, for example, we didn't have that first "if" statement in there and the code within the "else" brackets was the only bit in this function....

    It would pass the index for the JOY, 8 in our case, and light up LED 8 AND LED 9. So the JOY LED would light and then the bottom half of PUNCH 1's Kaimana J would light up. WHOOPS!

    Hopefully this demystifys some of the magic happening here.

    Thats for the clarification.

    Still leaves me confused though. I can only set the JOY to 0, as I don't have the wires to put it anywhere else, and I don't know of anywhere in the uk that would sell the required wires...

    But as described earlier with JOY = 0, K4 = 1&2 K3 = 3&4 and so on round to P1 to P4, it seems like the indexing is right and the coding otherwise unmodified from brightcade, but the joystick didn't change when pushed, and all the light buttons were one LED out of sync =/

    Yet after testing as @JRDIBBS suggested, the JOY works fine when its the only thing plugged in =/
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 474
    Kuniku wrote: »
    Kuniku wrote: »
    But don't I need the Joy set as a number for it to be included within the indexing?

    Yes, you should set it to a number. Here's why:

    The logical test in the code first says "Hey, the joystick is being pressed... light up this LED" then it says "Hey, this button is pressed, light up this LED and the one next to it". You can see this in kaimana.cpp:
      if(index == LED_JOY)
      {
        index = 8;
       _led[index].r = iR*BRIGHTNESS;
       _led[index].g = iG*BRIGHTNESS;
       _led[index].b = iB*BRIGHTNESS;
      }
      else
      {
    
         _led[index].r = iR*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index].g = iG*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index].b = iB*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index+ 1].r = iR*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index+ 1].g = iG*BRIGHTNESS;
         _led[index+ 1].b = iB*BRIGHTNESS;
       }
    

    NOTE: This is the PFS2.0 specific code from the BrightStick site where the JOY is the 9th LED in the series ( but really indexed value of 8 because in programming arrays starts with 0). So for non Panzer installs (or installs that dont follow my PFS2 LED scheme) can remove the line:
    index=8;
    

    since you will set the LED index for LED_JOY properly. You could also just update that line to have the correct index number for your case, but that would be redundant. If you remove it though, the code will take the index value and use it properly lighting the LED up in the joystick.

    Here's what's going on:

    It has to do it this way (handle the JOY LED first in all cases, hence an IF->ELSE statemnt) because the LEDs are in series with two per button. If you just set the JOY to a number and follow the same logic it will light one of the LEDs on button A and then the next LED on button B for Kaimana Js installed after the JOYSTICK and nobody wants that.

    In the case of the Panzer 2 setup, the first LED set in the string is for K4. So you have the single button:

    ********
    * *
    * K4 *
    * *
    ********

    With the pair of LEDs under it:

    (LED 0 --> LED 1)

    The code I mention above says: set LED at position 0 to "R" "G" "B" values (with some brightness modification) and then set the LED one position down the line (in this case LED 1, which is the other half of the K4 button lighting and evident by [index+1] ) to the same value WHEN K1 is pressed.

    Now... let's think forward to K1 the JOYSTICK and P1. The LEDs are setup such that:


    |--- KICK 1---| | JOY | |---PUNCH 1---|

    LED 6 --> LED 7 --> LED 8 --> LED 9 --> LED 10

    With the code above, it does it right. You press one of the directions on the Joystick, the code senses those digital pins and says "Hey! Light up the LED Joy at this index and only at this one index".... so it passes the index number (via some complex code in the .ino file) to the block of code. Since the index is the JOY index it enters that first "if" statement and then lights up the correct LED completely bypassing the else statement like it didn't exist.

    Say, for example, we didn't have that first "if" statement in there and the code within the "else" brackets was the only bit in this function....

    It would pass the index for the JOY, 8 in our case, and light up LED 8 AND LED 9. So the JOY LED would light and then the bottom half of PUNCH 1's Kaimana J would light up. WHOOPS!

    Hopefully this demystifys some of the magic happening here.

    Thats for the clarification.

    Still leaves me confused though. I can only set the JOY to 0, as I don't have the wires to put it anywhere else, and I don't know of anywhere in the uk that would sell the required wires...

    But as described earlier with JOY = 0, K4 = 1&2 K3 = 3&4 and so on round to P1 to P4, it seems like the indexing is right and the coding otherwise unmodified from brightcade, but the joystick didn't change when pushed, and all the light buttons were one LED out of sync =/

    Yet after testing as @JRDIBBS suggested, the JOY works fine when its the only thing plugged in =/

    Did you remove the index=8 line as Jasen suggested? This line will override anything you put in unless you remove it.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,387
    @Kuniku - Can you tell us how you have everything connected. This will help us, help you, write the code. OR you could just wire it like a PFS2 and be done with it:

    K4-K3-K2-K1-JOY-P1-P2-P3-P4-START-HOME-SELECT
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
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    Have a question? Use the JASENSCUSTOMS HELP DESK

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  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 474
    @Kuniku - Can you tell us how you have everything connected. This will help us, help you, write the code. OR you could just wire it like a PFS2 and be done with it:

    K4-K3-K2-K1-JOY-P1-P2-P3-P4-START-HOME-SELECT

    I Agree here since it no longer exists as a response.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • KunikuKuniku Joined: Posts: 351
    edited October 2016
    @Jasen Hicks Sure thing.

    I followed the youtube video I mentioned in an earlier post with the guides on how to both install the kaimana mini and how to add rgb LED to the joystick.

    My Layout/Setup

    5yM6o

    I don't have a spare 4pin to J2 3 Pin connector, so am unable to put the Joystick anywhere but first in the series of LEDs.

    So the indexing was done as follows:
    P1 - 9
    P1 - 10
    P2 - 11
    P2 - 12
    P3 - 13
    P3 - 14
    P4 - 15
    P4 - 16
    JOY - 0
    K1 - 7
    K1 - 8
    K2 - 5
    K2 - 6
    K3 - 3
    K3 - 4
    K4 - 1
    K4 - 2
    LED Count - 17
    

    With the other buttons, home, sel, share, start or what not all just set to off with 0xFF and 0,0,0 colours etc

    The colour coding itself was simply everything purple when nothing pressed etc, changing to yellow when pressed etc. With the standard idle animation numbers inserted
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 474
    Kuniku wrote: »
    @Jasen Hicks Sure thing.

    I followed the youtube video I mentioned in an earlier post with the guides on how to both install the kaimana mini and how to add rgb LED to the joystick.

    My Layout/Setup

    5yM6o

    I don't have a spare 4pin to J2 3 Pin connector, so am unable to put the Joystick anywhere but first in the series of LEDs.

    So the indexing was done as follows:
    P1 - 9
    P1 - 10
    P2 - 11
    P2 - 12
    P3 - 13
    P3 - 14
    P4 - 15
    P4 - 16
    JOY - 0
    K1 - 7
    K1 - 8
    K2 - 5
    K2 - 6
    K3 - 3
    K3 - 4
    K4 - 1
    K4 - 2
    LED Count - 17
    

    With the other buttons, home, sel, share, start or what not all just set to off with 0xFF and 0,0,0 colours etc

    The colour coding itself was simply everything purple when nothing pressed etc, changing to yellow when pressed etc. With the standard idle animation numbers inserted

    Yeah just removing the index=8 line would work for you. The code you put is not the one in the file right? They should be named P1_A and P1_B and so on so you dont get overwriting values.

    A random realization with this code @Jasen Hicks is that you dont even need to declare the even (2,4,6...)LEDs since your code does the +1 anyways.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,387
    @JRDIBBS - correct. That being said, its good practice to do it IF you get more creative with the coding and start changing colors to mix them (top half is green, bottom yellow for example).

    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year Co-Recipient

    Have a question? Use the JASENSCUSTOMS HELP DESK

    - Jasen's Customs Facebook, it's where the pictures are: Facebook
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  • KunikuKuniku Joined: Posts: 351
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    Yeah just removing the index=8 line would work for you. The code you put is not the one in the file right? They should be named P1_A and P1_B and so on so you dont get overwriting values.

    A random realization with this code @Jasen Hicks is that you dont even need to declare the even (2,4,6...)LEDs since your code does the +1 anyways.

    @JRDIBBS Thats not the actual code no, I'm at work so just wrote it out short hand. So don't need to include the LED Count?

    @Jasen Hicks I do plan to get more funky with the lighting, but wanted to get it working with the basics to begin with. Then I'll start looking into learning how to do animations etc!

    I'm still at a slight loss as to why if my setup and indexing is correct the LEDs aren't playing ball.

    On the off chance there was an error somewhere along the lines tomorrow morning I'll redo the coding from scratch and see if it mysteriously works or not.

    Thanks again for the help thus far!
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 474
    edited October 2016
    Kuniku wrote: »
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    Yeah just removing the index=8 line would work for you. The code you put is not the one in the file right? They should be named P1_A and P1_B and so on so you dont get overwriting values.

    A random realization with this code @Jasen Hicks is that you dont even need to declare the even (2,4,6...)LEDs since your code does the +1 anyways.

    @JRDIBBS Thats not the actual code no, I'm at work so just wrote it out short hand. So don't need to include the LED Count?

    @Jasen Hicks I do plan to get more funky with the lighting, but wanted to get it working with the basics to begin with. Then I'll start looking into learning how to do animations etc!

    I'm still at a slight loss as to why if my setup and indexing is correct the LEDs aren't playing ball.

    On the off chance there was an error somewhere along the lines tomorrow morning I'll redo the coding from scratch and see if it mysteriously works or not.

    Thanks again for the help thus far!

    Leave LED_count in and just remove the index=8 line in the other file. If it does not work do this:

    *Setup and Redownload from Brightstick site
    *Change the index order of the LEDS to match yours (changing the joyled to 0 also)
    *Remove the index=8 line in the kaimana.cpp file

    This should make it work. I hereby ban you from posting until you test! (not really but you know what i mean lmao)
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • KunikuKuniku Joined: Posts: 351
    @JRDIBBS Do you mean change the order of the buttons into the order of the LEDs rather than the order they come listed in as standard?
  • KunikuKuniku Joined: Posts: 351
    edited October 2016
    @JRDIBBS and @Jasen Hicks You'll be pleased to know that everything seems to be working, I checked the wiring, added new code and hooked everything and up and apart from one tiny thing everything is working just fine.

    That little thing is another odd one. One of the LEDs on P1 doesn't hold its colour when the button is pressed. It works exactly as it should when nothing is pressed and during the idle animation. However if I press and hold the button one of the two LEDs turns yellow and stays yellow. However the second LED on that J2 only flashes yellow and then returns to purple.

    Its not a huge issue as you tend to only tap buttons anyway, so I'm not overly fussed about it - but if I start messing with animations etc its probably something that I might want to look at.... Any ideas?

    Edit:

    Urgh unwired it to actually install it and now the LED's not lighting up again >_< will have to try and rewire it =/
    Post edited by Kuniku on
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 474
    Kuniku wrote: »
    @JRDIBBS and @Jasen Hicks You'll be pleased to know that everything seems to be working, I checked the wiring, added new code and hooked everything and up and apart from one tiny thing everything is working just fine.

    That little thing is another odd one. One of the LEDs on P1 doesn't hold its colour when the button is pressed. It works exactly as it should when nothing is pressed and during the idle animation. However if I press and hold the button one of the two LEDs turns yellow and stays yellow. However the second LED on that J2 only flashes yellow and then returns to purple.

    Its not a huge issue as you tend to only tap buttons anyway, so I'm not overly fussed about it - but if I start messing with animations etc its probably something that I might want to look at.... Any ideas?

    Edit:

    Urgh unwired it to actually install it and now the LED's not lighting up again >_< will have to try and rewire it =/

    Glad you got it working, sometimes it's best to never put stuff in sticks. But hey once you install them you will NEVER take them out right? Keep it up and check out my too-much linked page HERE where you can find many examples of different setups and animations. I will be posting some guides in the near future but you can hack away at your hearts content in the meantime.

    On another note, watch here how I drive a LED strip with the Kaimana! There are more vids in the channel that have the other idle animations working.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • KunikuKuniku Joined: Posts: 351
    JRDIBBS wrote: »
    Kuniku wrote: »
    @JRDIBBS and @Jasen Hicks You'll be pleased to know that everything seems to be working, I checked the wiring, added new code and hooked everything and up and apart from one tiny thing everything is working just fine.

    That little thing is another odd one. One of the LEDs on P1 doesn't hold its colour when the button is pressed. It works exactly as it should when nothing is pressed and during the idle animation. However if I press and hold the button one of the two LEDs turns yellow and stays yellow. However the second LED on that J2 only flashes yellow and then returns to purple.

    Its not a huge issue as you tend to only tap buttons anyway, so I'm not overly fussed about it - but if I start messing with animations etc its probably something that I might want to look at.... Any ideas?

    Edit:

    Urgh unwired it to actually install it and now the LED's not lighting up again >_< will have to try and rewire it =/

    Glad you got it working, sometimes it's best to never put stuff in sticks. But hey once you install them you will NEVER take them out right? Keep it up and check out my too-much linked page HERE where you can find many examples of different setups and animations. I will be posting some guides in the near future but you can hack away at your hearts content in the meantime.

    On another note, watch here how I drive a LED strip with the Kaimana! There are more vids in the channel that have the other idle animations working.

    Thanks for the link, once I've got it up and running again I plan to start looking at animations.

    Unfortunately I used some one time use terminals as the wires were too small to use the smallest barrier strips they sold, so I've had to wait until I could get back to my local electronics shop to buy some more. If the LED isn't coming on at all would it be the VCC wire to check first?
  • armi0024armi0024 Dash Cancel Expert, paradisearcadeshop.com Joined: Posts: 1,826
    We are going to make the unofficial official.

    First off, HUGE thanks to @Jasen Hicks and @JRDIBBS for all their help. These two guys are great friends and kept the ship on course during the last several months I have been less available.

    Now while Jasen is off keeping us safe from the evils of the world, we asked @JRDIBBS if he would like to join the PAS team officially and we are thrilled he accepted.

    I have asked him to make sure we support the forums, but condense information here into a much more useful support page. Thank you again for all your help and thank you to everyone for their support.
    www.paradisearcadeshop.com Sanwa, Seimitsu and a ton of custom parts
    2015 Tech Talk Store of the Year and Product of the Year, OBS-MX buttons
    2014 Tech Talk Stick Mod of the Year, LVT3 TE2
    2013 Tech Talk Store of the Year and Product of the Year, Kaimana Led Controller
  • JRDIBBSJRDIBBS Neighborhood Modder Joined: Posts: 474
    armi0024 wrote: »
    We are going to make the unofficial official.

    First off, HUGE thanks to @Jasen Hicks and @JRDIBBS for all their help. These two guys are great friends and kept the ship on course during the last several months I have been less available.

    Now while Jasen is off keeping us safe from the evils of the world, we asked @JRDIBBS if he would like to join the PAS team officially and we are thrilled he accepted.

    I have asked him to make sure we support the forums, but condense information here into a much more useful support page. Thank you again for all your help and thank you to everyone for their support.

    Thanks Bryan and PAS!! I'm super excited to be working on the Kaimana since it has become a pet project of mine.

    I'm now working on becoming the main support person for the Kaimana so If you have any questions fire away! Nothing's really changed in here but we are revamping the support.paradisearcadeshop.com site with guides, videos and a lot of the info we have put here.
    I mod so you can play!
    Joysticks, buttons and PCBs, all at paradisearcade.com!
    The Man @ MightyJRMods- PM me for fixes and mods in the USA www.mightyjrmods.com
    Kaimana Guru, check out my GitHub for layouts, animations and more!
    Member of the Church of Dremel and the Cult of Hot Glue.
    No mod is finished until you wrangle that wiring!
  • 32teeth32teeth Joined: Posts: 909
    @JRDIBBS @armi0024 @Jasen Hicks

    hey guys,

    i have been working with the Kaimana Mini
    paradise-kaimana-led-controller-pcb.jpg

    and as you can see there is an ICSP header exposed (2x3 connector) which is cool, since @armi0024 created this as an OSH Project

    i have a question about the Khameleon
    jasen-s-kaimana-kameleon-led-driver-pcb.jpg

    as you can see, there is no ICSP header exposed, i'd like to know more about the schematics on this device for
    1. loading new arduino bootloader
    2. skipping the bootloader all together and programming the board directly with a JTAG / Pocket AVR / ICE / AVRISPmkII / Whatever

    is there a pin breakout somewhere you can point me to?
    you know, being a project based on an open source product (arduino) i should be able to flash whatever on to this?
    pfft. warranty not needed
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