Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

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  • TenshoTensho Joined: Posts: 2,873
    Falkentyne wrote: »

    Dude I could kiss you right now. *slight homo* I would like something better to hold the brook board in place though. Maybe a...base of some kind.

    Use proper insulation mounting.
    This works well. Buy one and cut it out to size to fit the UFB.

    http://www.michaels.com/creatology-adhesive-foam-sheet/M10032002.html?dwvar_M10032002_color=Black#q=foam&start=87

    Is that what this is?





    https://www.focusattack.com/ez-snap-low-profile-adhesive-pcb-feet/
  • gankulagankula Joined: Posts: 7
    Is there any way to remove the SODC cleaning on a MC Cthulu pcb?
  • infrequent lurkerinfrequent lurker I'm not here Joined: Posts: 1,514
    Tensho wrote: »
    Falkentyne wrote: »

    Dude I could kiss you right now. *slight homo* I would like something better to hold the brook board in place though. Maybe a...base of some kind.

    Use proper insulation mounting.
    This works well. Buy one and cut it out to size to fit the UFB.

    http://www.michaels.com/creatology-adhesive-foam-sheet/M10032002.html?dwvar_M10032002_color=Black#q=foam&start=87

    Is that what this is?





    https://www.focusattack.com/ez-snap-low-profile-adhesive-pcb-feet/

    Dude, that is awesome. Thank you.
  • VickoVicko Vegas Modder Extraordinaire! Joined: Posts: 2,830
    gankula wrote: »
    Is there any way to remove the SODC cleaning on a MC Cthulu pcb?

    no, and why would you want to do that
    SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year 2015
    Need a stick modded? I can dual mod, repair, and customize your stick or Hitbox for PS4/PS3/XB1/360

    www.vickomods.com
    lol
  • GummoGummo Can We Mod It? Yes, We Can! Joined: Posts: 5,523
    gankula wrote: »
    Is there any way to remove the SODC cleaning on a MC Cthulu pcb?

    You can't remove it from the mc cthulhu, but you could create your own cleaning curcuit that cleans up the inputs before it goes to the mc. Still wouldn't be able to have opposing inputs to do something ddr like, but you could do asynchronous cleaning.
    Website: http://www.gummods.com
    Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/gummowned
    Twitter: @Gummowned
    Will be providing my modding services at EVO @ the Madcatz booth!
  • KyehlarKyehlar Purrrfect Joined: Posts: 122
    Gummo wrote: »
    Kyehlar wrote: »
    Quick question: Is there any difference to the casings of Sanwa vs Seimitsu pushbuttons? I was able to put my Kuro microswitches into Sanwa holders, but don't know if Seimitsus have a different hole or not.

    Pretty much the only way to get true purple is to use Seimitsus, but I don't want to sacrifice the ability to use my Kuros. So am I all clear?

    Yes there is a difference. You won't be able to fit them in the seimitsu shell.

    Just what I was afraid of. Thanks for the save. Appreciate it.
    "Never quit. Never let them see you're afraid. Never let them see you're hurt. Never let them see you cry. Never."
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    Skullgirls - Eliza/Cerebella/Valentine Divekick - Kung Pao Killer Instinct - Orchid
    twitch.tv/kyehlar Avatar Image by svoidist
  • appomoappomo uupps Joined: Posts: 4,590
    someone here who can link me to a video with
    sanwa 24mm silent buttons?

    i can just find rhe 30er but the sound of em is different then the ones from the 24er.
  • EnsErmacEnsErmac Joined: Posts: 8
    Has anyone ever custom wired the Home/Turbo/Mode/Select buttons on a Qanba Q1? My Qanba board died on me, so I dropped in a Zero Delay USB encoder. Would like to have the select/mode buttons working.
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    If the pinouts for those buttons are the same as on a Q4, I wired them all up on a Brook UFB, setting Turbo as L3 and Mode as R3. You can either solder, or used insulated wire crimps or hot glue. One ground has to be hooked to the Qanba front panel gnd pin.
  • El_HarryEl_Harry Joined: Posts: 13
    Hi everyone.

    I've been saving money for a while and now I'm about to tackle a pretty huge (for me at least) project. I'll customize a HORI Real Arcade Pro EX, and what I want to do with this lovely stick is to be playable on PC, Xbox360 and ps3 (at least), art in buttons and leds in buttons and balltop.
    That's the goal, but I'm not used to customize stuff at all. I've been doing some research and with all that information and my preferences I'm about to order everything I need.

    HORI Real Arcade Pro EX
    Seimitsu LS-32-01 Joystick
    Seimitsu Circular Restrictor Gate
    Seimitsu LB-39 Clear Bubbletop
    Sanwa Denshi 30mm CLEAR Pushbutton OBSC30 x6
    Sanwa Denshi 24mm CLEAR Pushbutton OBSC24 x2
    Akishop PS360+ Multi-Console Joystick PCB
    Neutrik NE8FDP EtherCon RJ45
    12 inch RJ45/Cat6 Ethernet Cable
    13 Foot Black USB (PSX PS2 and DC ones) to RJ45 Cable

    And here comes the trouble, because I have no idea where do I buy the stuff needed to do the led mods. I've seen a few tutorials but I don't know where to buy that stuff and wich ones should I buy.
    What I want is the RGB leds that can be programmed, so I can change the color scheme, make sequences, patterns, etc.
    If anyone can help me completing the list of stuff I need to order I'd be really grateful, and if I'm missing something, please tell me.

    EDIT: Currently checking paradisearcadeshop for the led stuff.

    Tanks in advance and sorry for my bad english :)
  • sasquachsasquach Joined: Posts: 369
    El_Harry wrote: »
    Hi everyone.

    I've been saving money for a while and now I'm about to tackle a pretty huge (for me at least) project. I'll customize a HORI Real Arcade Pro EX, and what I want to do with this lovely stick is to be playable on PC, Xbox360 and ps3 (at least), art in buttons and leds in buttons and balltop.
    That's the goal, but I'm not used to customize stuff at all. I've been doing some research and with all that information and my preferences I'm about to order everything I need.

    HORI Real Arcade Pro EX
    Seimitsu LS-32-01 Joystick
    Seimitsu Circular Restrictor Gate
    Seimitsu LB-39 Clear Bubbletop
    Sanwa Denshi 30mm CLEAR Pushbutton OBSC30 x6
    Sanwa Denshi 24mm CLEAR Pushbutton OBSC24 x2
    Akishop PS360+ Multi-Console Joystick PCB
    Neutrik NE8FDP EtherCon RJ45
    12 inch RJ45/Cat6 Ethernet Cable
    13 Foot Black USB (PSX PS2 and DC ones) to RJ45 Cable

    And here comes the trouble, because I have no idea where do I buy the stuff needed to do the led mods. I've seen a few tutorials but I don't know where to buy that stuff and wich ones should I buy.
    What I want is the RGB leds that can be programmed, so I can change the color scheme, make sequences, patterns, etc.
    If anyone can help me completing the list of stuff I need to order I'd be really grateful, and if I'm missing something, please tell me.

    EDIT: Currently checking paradisearcadeshop for the led stuff.

    Tanks in advance and sorry for my bad english :)

    All of your items in your cart seems good. For the LED mods, get a Kaimana Mini kit and it should work wonders. You can also get the Kaimana Khameleon kit as well. Just make sure you solder a 20 pin header to the PS360+ PCB.
    "I'm just nice" -Harry Potter
  • dtgodmage22dtgodmage22 Joined: Posts: 346
    Still debating if i want to try a semitsu joystick starting to dig the sanwa with 2.5lb spring and 1.0 kowal

    Everyone says i should try the ls40

  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    Why the Kowal Actuator? I don't get why its getting so much appeal.

    Anyways, why continue to mod Sanwa Joystick when there so many other joysticks to try out?
    Everyone says i should try the ls40
    Give it a shot, you be surprise that a good joystick does not need constant mods.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • El_HarryEl_Harry Joined: Posts: 13
    edited July 2016
    sasquach wrote: »
    All of your items in your cart seems good. For the LED mods, get a Kaimana Mini kit and it should work wonders. You can also get the Kaimana Khameleon kit as well. Just make sure you solder a 20 pin header to the PS360+ PCB.

    I may look kinda stupid, but why should I solder a 20 pin header to the PS360+ PCB? In the tutorial videos I've seen they mount the Paradise Kaimana Mini LED Driver PCB on the PCB the stick has.
    Like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_2174231955&feature=iv&src_vid=4JgdPfJu03E&v=mKty1h_pj54

    I truly don't know anything about this stuff, this is pretty insightful, thanks.
  • GLoRToRGLoRToR Killer-Bee-Ginner Joined: Posts: 21
    I have a MCZ TE2 for XBone.
    I play on PC.
    The standard driver locks out two buttons for whatever reason.
    Trying to find a way to have those buttons function properly but I'm not too familiar with this, so I'd appreciate some help.
    Downloaded Joy2Key but it's not much help as I'm pretty confused by the button names on the left.

    I'll be playing KI and SFV both.
  • dtgodmage22dtgodmage22 Joined: Posts: 346
    GLoRToR wrote: »
    I have a MCZ TE2 for XBone.
    I play on PC.
    The standard driver locks out two buttons for whatever reason.
    Trying to find a way to have those buttons function properly but I'm not too familiar with this, so I'd appreciate some help.
    Downloaded Joy2Key but it's not much help as I'm pretty confused by the button names on the left.

    I'll be playing KI and SFV both.

    All 8 buttons will never work on pc till microsoft update the driver heres a fix to get 6 buttons working
  • dtgodmage22dtgodmage22 Joined: Posts: 346
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Why the Kowal Actuator? I don't get why its getting so much appeal.

    Anyways, why continue to mod Sanwa Joystick when there so many other joysticks to try out?
    Everyone says i should try the ls40
    Give it a shot, you be surprise that a good joystick does not need constant mods.

    Would be nice constantly always buying and re trying this or that mod

    Not sure why but the 1.0 kowal is just what i bought first got a 0.5 acutator from pas feel no different then stock

    Im not sure if i even like the shorter throw even wjth a 2.5 lb spring still at times feels to loose other days to heavy lol

  • GLoRToRGLoRToR Killer-Bee-Ginner Joined: Posts: 21
    GLoRToR wrote: »
    I have a MCZ TE2 for XBone.
    I play on PC.
    The standard driver locks out two buttons for whatever reason.
    Trying to find a way to have those buttons function properly but I'm not too familiar with this, so I'd appreciate some help.
    Downloaded Joy2Key but it's not much help as I'm pretty confused by the button names on the left.

    I'll be playing KI and SFV both.

    All 8 buttons will never work on pc till microsoft update the driver heres a fix to get 6 buttons working

    I just went ahead and rewired it so its bottom row and top row, 3 out of 4 buttons working each. More comfortable this way. Guess I'll wait for the fix otherwise. Thanks, man!
  • Ken_SamaKen_Sama Joined: Posts: 44
    Hey guys/girls,

    I'm looking for a cheapish laptop with good screen resolution (HD etc) for around £300 (mainly for viewing videos). Do you have any suggestions?
  • coredumpcoredump Joined: Posts: 38
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Why the Kowal Actuator? I don't get why its getting so much appeal.

    Anyways, why continue to mod Sanwa Joystick when there so many other joysticks to try out?
    Everyone says i should try the ls40
    Give it a shot, you be surprise that a good joystick does not need constant mods.

    @Darksakul @dtgodmage22

    I made a post on reddit about comparing modded joysticks and stuff and I understand why the mods (I myself use a JLF with heavier spring and a kowal actuator).

    My findings was that modding a JLF like that makes it behave like a LS-56, so my next sticks may be LS-56 based, BUT since I wanted to use the Link system I had to go with a JLF. With the mods it has almost the same engage/throw than the stock LS-56.

    Also, LS-56 + kowal spacers for shorter throw was the only way I found out to use an octogonal gate without having terrible diagonals.

    I think modding joysticks are more about finding whatever you find 'perfect'. In general, if I was to indicate a stock lever, it would be the LS-56.
  • Mark_VIMark_VI Joined: Posts: 2
    edited July 2016
    Focus Attack legit?

    ArcadeShock.com - they lead the way in licensed and new stuff from Sanwa and Seimitsu.

    I'm only ordering from Focusattack because they also sell hex keys for the TE.

    FYI the TE uses a standard 3mm hex key that you can get from any hardware store.
  • DominicanPowerDominicanPower Shit Iz Real Joined: Posts: 1,069
    edited July 2016
    Mark_VI wrote: »
    Focus Attack legit?

    ArcadeShock.com - they lead the way in licensed and new stuff from Sanwa and Seimitsu.

    I'm only ordering from Focusattack because they also sell hex keys for the TE.

    FYI the TE uses a standard 3mm hex key that you can get from any hardware store.

    It was just more convenient for me and FA is a lot closer to me.
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Why the Kowal Actuator? I don't get why its getting so much appeal.

    Anyways, why continue to mod Sanwa Joystick when there so many other joysticks to try out?
    Everyone says i should try the ls40
    Give it a shot, you be surprise that a good joystick does not need constant mods.

    Would be nice constantly always buying and re trying this or that mod

    Not sure why but the 1.0 kowal is just what i bought first got a 0.5 acutator from pas feel no different then stock

    Im not sure if i even like the shorter throw even wjth a 2.5 lb spring still at times feels to loose other days to heavy lol

    The kowal actuator is the only way to make an octagonal gate actually decent on a JLF.
    Attempting to use an octagon gate without a kowal actuator just makes the stick feel awful with the longer throws.
  • sasquachsasquach Joined: Posts: 369
    Falkentyne wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Why the Kowal Actuator? I don't get why its getting so much appeal.

    Anyways, why continue to mod Sanwa Joystick when there so many other joysticks to try out?
    Everyone says i should try the ls40
    Give it a shot, you be surprise that a good joystick does not need constant mods.

    Would be nice constantly always buying and re trying this or that mod

    Not sure why but the 1.0 kowal is just what i bought first got a 0.5 acutator from pas feel no different then stock

    Im not sure if i even like the shorter throw even wjth a 2.5 lb spring still at times feels to loose other days to heavy lol

    The kowal actuator is the only way to make an octagonal gate actually decent on a JLF.
    Attempting to use an octagon gate without a kowal actuator just makes the stick feel awful with the longer throws.

    But we have alternatives like the PAS actuators (better material), nylon spacer inside of the actuator's throw part with small levered switches for shorter throw and smaller deadzone, etc. Or better yet, grab a new joystick.
    "I'm just nice" -Harry Potter
  • ilitiritilitirit Joined: Posts: 6,397
    Anyone know if there's a CPS2 version of this Homebrew rom?

    http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/240p_test_suite
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    edited July 2016
    ilitirit wrote: »
    Anyone know if there's a CPS2 version of this Homebrew rom?

    http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/240p_test_suite

    There isn't one. All the known versions are listed on that Wiki page.

    Also it is not necessary to have the 240p test suite every single platform. The 240p Test suit was made for the "evaluation of upscalers, upscan converters, line doublers and of course TV processing of 240p video" and not consoles/game systems. Multiple versions were made to offer people options for testing their 240p video setups, as not everyone have the same consoles/game systems.

    Depending how your particular set up is wired up you might want to use a different console for testing. A console's 240p RGB (usually via Scart or BNC breakout) out is compatible with 15Khz arcade monitors.

    I do not even know if their is a SDK for homebrew CPS2 Roms.

    Falkentyne wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Why the Kowal Actuator? I don't get why its getting so much appeal.

    Anyways, why continue to mod Sanwa Joystick when there so many other joysticks to try out?
    Everyone says i should try the ls40
    Give it a shot, you be surprise that a good joystick does not need constant mods.

    Would be nice constantly always buying and re trying this or that mod

    Not sure why but the 1.0 kowal is just what i bought first got a 0.5 acutator from pas feel no different then stock

    Im not sure if i even like the shorter throw even wjth a 2.5 lb spring still at times feels to loose other days to heavy lol

    The kowal actuator is the only way to make an octagonal gate actually decent on a JLF.
    Attempting to use an octagon gate without a kowal actuator just makes the stick feel awful with the longer throws.

    No it isn't Paradise Arcade also makes oversized Actuators. Kowal actuators are actually the wrong shape and can catch on the gate.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    coredump wrote: »
    I made a post on reddit about comparing modded joysticks and stuff and I understand why the mods (I myself use a JLF with heavier spring and a kowal actuator).

    My findings was that modding a JLF like that makes it behave like a LS-56, so my next sticks may be LS-56 based, BUT since I wanted to use the Link system I had to go with a JLF. With the mods it has almost the same engage/throw than the stock LS-56.

    Also, LS-56 + kowal spacers for shorter throw was the only way I found out to use an octogonal gate without having terrible diagonals.

    I think modding joysticks are more about finding whatever you find 'perfect'. In general, if I was to indicate a stock lever, it would be the LS-56.
    Octagonal gates have bad diagonals by there very nature, you are limiting the area to hit those diagonals in the first place.

    Also

    Modding a JLF is not going to make the JLF feel like anything but a JLF. The LS-56 is made with a completely different dimensions and design standpoint from the JLF.
    LS-56 is already a short throw short engage while the JLF is long throw and engage.

    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,455
    Darksakul wrote: »
    ilitirit wrote: »
    Anyone know if there's a CPS2 version of this Homebrew rom?

    http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/240p_test_suite

    There isn't one. All the known versions are listed on that Wiki page.

    Also it is not necessary to have the 240p test suite every single platform. The 240p Test suit was made for the "evaluation of upscalers, upscan converters, line doublers and of course TV processing of 240p video" and not consoles/game systems. Multiple versions were made to offer people options for testing their 240p video setups, as not everyone have the same consoles/game systems.

    Depending how your particular set up is wired up you might want to use a different console for testing. A console's 240p RGB (usually via Scart or BNC breakout) out is compatible with 15Khz arcade monitors.

    I do not even know if their is a SDK for homebrew CPS2 Roms.

    Falkentyne wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Why the Kowal Actuator? I don't get why its getting so much appeal.

    Anyways, why continue to mod Sanwa Joystick when there so many other joysticks to try out?
    Everyone says i should try the ls40
    Give it a shot, you be surprise that a good joystick does not need constant mods.

    Would be nice constantly always buying and re trying this or that mod

    Not sure why but the 1.0 kowal is just what i bought first got a 0.5 acutator from pas feel no different then stock

    Im not sure if i even like the shorter throw even wjth a 2.5 lb spring still at times feels to loose other days to heavy lol

    The kowal actuator is the only way to make an octagonal gate actually decent on a JLF.
    Attempting to use an octagon gate without a kowal actuator just makes the stick feel awful with the longer throws.

    No it isn't Paradise Arcade also makes oversized Actuators. Kowal actuators are actually the wrong shape and can catch on the gate.

    Last time I checked, none of their actuators reduced throw- some are actually designed to make their longer. And snagging only occurs with the hayabusa gate which the kowal wasn't designed for), and is easily resolved by rounding the upper edges of the larger cylinder.
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    Darksakul wrote: »
    ilitirit wrote: »
    Anyone know if there's a CPS2 version of this Homebrew rom?

    http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/240p_test_suite

    There isn't one. All the known versions are listed on that Wiki page.

    Also it is not necessary to have the 240p test suite every single platform. The 240p Test suit was made for the "evaluation of upscalers, upscan converters, line doublers and of course TV processing of 240p video" and not consoles/game systems. Multiple versions were made to offer people options for testing their 240p video setups, as not everyone have the same consoles/game systems.

    Depending how your particular set up is wired up you might want to use a different console for testing. A console's 240p RGB (usually via Scart or BNC breakout) out is compatible with 15Khz arcade monitors.

    I do not even know if their is a SDK for homebrew CPS2 Roms.

    Falkentyne wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Why the Kowal Actuator? I don't get why its getting so much appeal.

    Anyways, why continue to mod Sanwa Joystick when there so many other joysticks to try out?
    Everyone says i should try the ls40
    Give it a shot, you be surprise that a good joystick does not need constant mods.

    Would be nice constantly always buying and re trying this or that mod

    Not sure why but the 1.0 kowal is just what i bought first got a 0.5 acutator from pas feel no different then stock

    Im not sure if i even like the shorter throw even wjth a 2.5 lb spring still at times feels to loose other days to heavy lol

    The kowal actuator is the only way to make an octagonal gate actually decent on a JLF.
    Attempting to use an octagon gate without a kowal actuator just makes the stick feel awful with the longer throws.

    No it isn't Paradise Arcade also makes oversized Actuators. Kowal actuators are actually the wrong shape and can catch on the gate.

    Last time I checked, none of their actuators reduced throw- some are actually designed to make their longer. And snagging only occurs with the hayabusa gate which the kowal wasn't designed for), and is easily resolved by rounding the upper edges of the larger cylinder.

    I didn't say anything about actuators and throw. Snagging also occurs with the Sanwa JLF as well.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,455
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    ilitirit wrote: »
    Anyone know if there's a CPS2 version of this Homebrew rom?

    http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/240p_test_suite

    There isn't one. All the known versions are listed on that Wiki page.

    Also it is not necessary to have the 240p test suite every single platform. The 240p Test suit was made for the "evaluation of upscalers, upscan converters, line doublers and of course TV processing of 240p video" and not consoles/game systems. Multiple versions were made to offer people options for testing their 240p video setups, as not everyone have the same consoles/game systems.

    Depending how your particular set up is wired up you might want to use a different console for testing. A console's 240p RGB (usually via Scart or BNC breakout) out is compatible with 15Khz arcade monitors.

    I do not even know if their is a SDK for homebrew CPS2 Roms.

    Falkentyne wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Why the Kowal Actuator? I don't get why its getting so much appeal.

    Anyways, why continue to mod Sanwa Joystick when there so many other joysticks to try out?
    Everyone says i should try the ls40
    Give it a shot, you be surprise that a good joystick does not need constant mods.

    Would be nice constantly always buying and re trying this or that mod

    Not sure why but the 1.0 kowal is just what i bought first got a 0.5 acutator from pas feel no different then stock

    Im not sure if i even like the shorter throw even wjth a 2.5 lb spring still at times feels to loose other days to heavy lol

    The kowal actuator is the only way to make an octagonal gate actually decent on a JLF.
    Attempting to use an octagon gate without a kowal actuator just makes the stick feel awful with the longer throws.

    No it isn't Paradise Arcade also makes oversized Actuators. Kowal actuators are actually the wrong shape and can catch on the gate.

    Last time I checked, none of their actuators reduced throw- some are actually designed to make their longer. And snagging only occurs with the hayabusa gate which the kowal wasn't designed for), and is easily resolved by rounding the upper edges of the larger cylinder.

    I didn't say anything about actuators and throw. Snagging also occurs with the Sanwa JLF as well.

    The change in throw is a big part of what makes that particular actuator different. And I haven't had any of the 4 I've owned snag on a JLF gate, perhaps you're referring to one of the original aluminum models?
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    edited July 2016
    Darksakul wrote: »

    I didn't say anything about actuators and throw. Snagging also occurs with the Sanwa JLF as well.

    Can you explain this snagging problem?
    I've been using the original metal (aluminum) kowal actuator as well as the traditional ones, and not once has it ever catched or snagged on anything. The metal one runs as smooth as a baby's bottom, through all my Chun Li abuse. Finally was able to do the cr lp neutral mp cr mk SBK combo 10 times in a row.

    Just checked the actuator and gate last night and besides some discoloration of the Shin Etsu (looks a bit silver now), the gate and actuator seem to be in pristine condition, although discoloration marks; there's no grinding or damage to anything.

    I went back to the square gate because I was bored, and instantly had trouble doing QCF moves (fuck chun li's air legs, man) so I put the octo+kowal back in.
    The change in throw is a big part of what makes that particular actuator different. And I haven't had any of the 4 I've owned snag on a JLF gate, perhaps you're referring to one of the original aluminum models?

    Absolutely NO snagging nor ANY problems whatsoever with the aluminum model. Love it.
  • real_vreal_v Joined: Posts: 38
    Question:
    Is it possible to mod the Hori Fighting Edge with the Brook Universal Board while keeping support for the touch-screen panel?

    I have a Brook UB, and I'm thinking about getting a Hori FE to mod it.
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    edited July 2016
    Did you look in the UFB thread first? This question has been asked and answered before over there.
    I shouldn't have to search for you.

    http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/10557967#Comment_10557967
  • AMStalkerAMStalker Joined: Posts: 2
    Hey guys a general question, i have the paradise arcade fightboard breakout with screw terminals, and one of the terminals came super tight and i cant loosen it. Any tips? Screw is 1.4mm size.
  • nimznimz "Pocket Magneto" Joined: Posts: 34
    edited July 2016
    Hey folks - I just bought a Brook converter (ps3 to ps4) and am trying to get it to work with my quanba/eightarc fusion. I followed the instructions to the point where I clicked on "update" on the program prompt and it says "update failed" and now the adapter is stuck in "update mode" (purple light). How do get it out of update mode and eventually install the firmware?

    I have been searching for hours and tried a few suggestions that I read, but none of them seem to work. Have a tech support email out to Brook but who knows how long it will take to get answered.

    Leaving for Evo tomorrow night and have an 8AM pool on Friday morning so hoping to get this fixed soon.

    Thanks in advance.

    Update: finally found an answer here in the link below. The dropbox file linked in the thread was the key. Updated firmware using that (v1.7) then did the v1.8 update downloaded from the brooks website.

    http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/197708/brook-ps4-xboxone-controller-converters-thread/p41

    Post edited by nimz on
  • HANHAN Team GGA Joined: Posts: 152 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    I'd like to use my custom panzer arcade stick on some genesis shmups/fighters, but unfortunately the PS360+ does not support this console for some reason. I've tried using http://www.tototek.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23&products_id=54&zenid=1qreupsbigjmnu6vh940epaug6 adapter to adapt a psx rj45 cord to the genesis and it doesn't work, even trying to "force" the ps360+ into PSX mode by holding down light kick.

    Any other ways to get this to work besides doing a dedicated pad hack for genesis? I'm really trying to avoid it and want to use the PS360+ stick I've got already.

    Would this adapter work:
    http://www.raphnet-tech.com/products/snes_to_megadrive/index.php

    Any other thoughts?

    Thanks in advance!
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,608
    AMStalker wrote: »
    Hey guys a general question, i have the paradise arcade fightboard breakout with screw terminals, and one of the terminals came super tight and i cant loosen it. Any tips? Screw is 1.4mm size.

    You can keep trying to loosen it or just solder to the pin on the underside if you're comfortable doing so.

  • AMStalkerAMStalker Joined: Posts: 2
    edited July 2016
    AMStalker wrote: »
    Hey guys a general question, i have the paradise arcade fightboard breakout with screw terminals, and one of the terminals came super tight and i cant loosen it. Any tips? Screw is 1.4mm size.

    You can keep trying to loosen it or just solder to the pin on the underside if you're comfortable doing so.
    i have the equipment, previous experiences weren't so great though, but its only one wire so it shouldn't be too hard. I was just wondering if there were other options. If i do decide to solder it, i would just need to solder the signal wire to the designated already soldered screw terminal underneath?
    Post edited by AMStalker on
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    Falkentyne wrote: »
    Can you explain this snagging problem?
    Its exactly what it sounds like the actuator edges get caught on the edges of the gate.

    I strongly doubt you have one of the original metal aluminum kowal actuators.
    They were a very small one-time batch that went out to a small selective group of people before you joined SRK.
    Just checked the actuator and gate last night and besides some discoloration of the Shin Etsu (looks a bit silver now)
    That means that the soft aluminium is wearing off and working it's way into the grease.

    Keep in mind there many, many grades of aluminium and many different alloys of aluminium.
    Unless you are dealing with Aircraft/Aerospace grades of Aluminum alloy, you are dealing with a very soft metal.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    @Darksakul check your PM
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