Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

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  • real_vreal_v Joined: Posts: 38
    Can the Brook Super Converter be used to fix the issue with the Atrox XBone on PC, where only 6 buttons (+ start and select) are recognized?
    http://www.brookaccessory.com/detail/07484504/

    I think some Madcatz sticks also suffer the same problem.
  • real_vreal_v Joined: Posts: 38
    Is the artwork on the Madcatz soul caliber v stick replaceable?
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    real_v wrote: »
    Is the artwork on the Madcatz soul caliber v stick replaceable?

    Yes.
  • real_vreal_v Joined: Posts: 38
    Many fightsticks have a turbo section on the top-left, where they put modules that contain secondary buttons such as Home, L3, R3, Turbo, etc.
    3028700853_b08f8697c1.jpg

    Is there any vendor that sells those kinds of modules (groups of buttons) for modding purposes?
  • ClandestineClandestine Patiently waiting for CvS3 Joined: Posts: 525
    real_v wrote: »
    Many fightsticks have a turbo section on the top-left, where they put modules that contain secondary buttons such as Home, L3, R3, Turbo, etc.

    Is there any vendor that sells those kinds of modules (groups of buttons) for modding purposes?

    I know it's not what you're looking for, but you could also look into using smaller momentary pushbuttons, like the 10mm sized ones.
  • real_vreal_v Joined: Posts: 38
    I know it's not what you're looking for, but you could also look into using smaller momentary pushbuttons, like the 10mm sized ones.

    That's plan B.
  • ilitiritilitirit Joined: Posts: 6,388
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Also it is not necessary to have the 240p test suite every single platform. The 240p Test suit was made for the "evaluation of upscalers, upscan converters, line doublers and of course TV processing of 240p video" and not consoles/game systems. Multiple versions were made to offer people options for testing their 240p video setups, as not everyone have the same consoles/game systems.

    I actually just want it for the manual lag test so I can check the performance of various emulators + controllers on different platforms.
  • DominicanPowerDominicanPower Shit Iz Real Joined: Posts: 1,069
    How long does a new sanwa take to break in?
  • TenshoTensho Joined: Posts: 2,866
    I've never had a stick or buttons(other than Hori Kuro that stopped squeaking after a few days of using) that needed a break-in.
    They work the same the first day until over time they need a re-lube/cleaning or change the spring is when they start to feel different to me.
  • MisterzlavaMisterzlava Joined: Posts: 4
    Hello q&a thread im thinking of buying a semitsu ls-62-01 and wanted to know how it feels as far as stiffness the only stick ive ever used is the hayabusa lever is it as loose as that or tighter which i am hoping for? thanks in advance
  • DominicanPowerDominicanPower Shit Iz Real Joined: Posts: 1,069
    edited July 2016
    Hello q&a thread im thinking of buying a semitsu ls-62-01 and wanted to know how it feels as far as stiffness the only stick ive ever used is the hayabusa lever is it as loose as that or tighter which i am hoping for? thanks in advance

    Semitsu sticks are stiffer than Sanwa and Hayabusa. Hayabusa are looser than Sanwa.
  • HayTuxHayTux Joined: Posts: 98
    Quick question about PCB mounting. Does the PCB absolutely need to be held down by screw or something? My case doesn't have anywhere to screw the PCB down and I'm not sure the wood on any side is thick enough that I could screw it down myself without drilling out the side or top.
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,452
    The 56 is a bit more stiff than the 62, and they're the same lever other than spring tension and shaft length. If you're after that octagonal gate (best one there is IMO), it's the same part for the 56, 58, 60, and 62. Though you have to buy it separate with all but the 62, the rest come stock with a square gate.
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    HayTux wrote: »
    Quick question about PCB mounting. Does the PCB absolutely need to be held down by screw or something? My case doesn't have anywhere to screw the PCB down and I'm not sure the wood on any side is thick enough that I could screw it down myself without drilling out the side or top.

    This will solve your problems.
    http://www.michaels.com/creatology-adhesive-foam-sheet/M10032002.html?dwvar_M10032002_color=Black#q=foam&start=87
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,386
    Falkentyne wrote: »
    HayTux wrote: »
    Quick question about PCB mounting. Does the PCB absolutely need to be held down by screw or something? My case doesn't have anywhere to screw the PCB down and I'm not sure the wood on any side is thick enough that I could screw it down myself without drilling out the side or top.

    This will solve your problems.
    http://www.michaels.com/creatology-adhesive-foam-sheet/M10032002.html?dwvar_M10032002_color=Black#q=foam&start=87

    That only one of many options. And you don't need to get a huge sheet, most hardware stores sell double sided foam tape that you apply as needed in strips
    There also the option of using self adhesive wire anchors and zip ties.
    You could also buy PCB stand-off feet, glue them into place and then screw your PCB into the stand-offs
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • MegahurtzMegahurtz Joined: Posts: 13
    Hi friendly folks :)

    I have a 360 SFIV TE1 stick I'm prepping to convert to a Brook UFB. To get ready, I unplugged all three headers from the guide/turbo panel. Reconnected them while I'm waiting for parts to ship, but once I put everything back together, something seemed wrong.

    When I plug the TE1 into my 360 with the switch set to LS, I can't navigate through the 360 dashboard. Setting it to DP works. When I load up SSF4 AE and enter the practice mode, LS works to input joystick commands.

    My question: Is LS not working in the 360 dashboard the usual behavior for a TE1? Or have I messed something up? How would LS work in game, but not on the dash?

    Thanks for your help!
  • BernzBernz Joined: Posts: 4
    Hello guys! I'm new here not sure if is here the right place to post but i have a question...
    I have a tatsuno vs capcom arcade stick which i really love , but unfortunately the board seems dead, i was wondering what could I do with the rest of the parts.
    Is there any kinda of cheap pcb (that doesn't require soldering) that i could put in there to work on systems like pc and ps3? (ps2 support would be a great bonus but not a huge deal breaker)

    Thanks in advance!
  • Blue LightningBlue Lightning Portuguese Fighter Joined: Posts: 860
    Hey guys, quick question about the HRAPV3 PCB, when my friend modded my stick with it a few years ago the Home Button was not implemented for reasons neither of us can recall. Now, according to this image:

    http://s599.photobucket.com/user/inthebrook/media/HRAPV3/8bb142e3.jpg.html

    The home switch is the third bottom one on the top-left row. Now, here's a picture of my stick's PCB:

    http://www.ptfighters.com/uploads/editor/7r/46exe2nzptqc.jpg

    As you can see (flip the picture counter-clockwise once), that switch is actually unused.

    Does this mean that simply connecting the switch to a button of the stick (say, select button) will make the Home button work? It's pretty important because you need that to play on ps4 with a brook. Otherwise, how can I make the Home button work on that pcb? Thanks in advance!
    SF5: Raaashiiiidoooooooo; Tier-whore: Chun-li
    UMvC3: Main: Nova/Doctor Doom/Amaterasu; Former Team: Nova/Frank West/Amaterasu; Casual/Dream Team: Magneto/Dante/Frank and Doctor Doom/Dante/Frank
    PSN ID: BLightning91
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    Hey guys, quick question about the HRAPV3 PCB, when my friend modded my stick with it a few years ago the Home Button was not implemented for reasons neither of us can recall. Now, according to this image:

    http://s599.photobucket.com/user/inthebrook/media/HRAPV3/8bb142e3.jpg.html

    The home switch is the third bottom one on the top-left row. Now, here's a picture of my stick's PCB:

    http://www.ptfighters.com/uploads/editor/7r/46exe2nzptqc.jpg

    As you can see (flip the picture counter-clockwise once), that switch is actually unused.

    Does this mean that simply connecting the switch to a button of the stick (say, select button) will make the Home button work? It's pretty important because you need that to play on ps4 with a brook. Otherwise, how can I make the Home button work on that pcb? Thanks in advance!

    Just run GND to the auxiliary PCB and then wire the home signal on the main PCB to the home signal on the aux pcb. That'll give you a proper home button.
    Bernz wrote: »
    Hello guys! I'm new here not sure if is here the right place to post but i have a question...
    I have a tatsuno vs capcom arcade stick which i really love , but unfortunately the board seems dead, i was wondering what could I do with the rest of the parts.
    Is there any kinda of cheap pcb (that doesn't require soldering) that i could put in there to work on systems like pc and ps3? (ps2 support would be a great bonus but not a huge deal breaker)

    Thanks in advance!

    Get a zero delay encoder. The green one supports ps2, 3 and pc. Should be solderless unless you want a home button.

  • BernzBernz Joined: Posts: 4

    Bernz wrote: »
    Hello guys! I'm new here not sure if is here the right place to post but i have a question...I have a tatsuno vs capcom arcade stick which i really love , but unfortunately the board seems dead, i was wondering what could I do with the rest of the parts.
    Is there any kinda of cheap pcb (that doesn't require soldering) that i could put in there to work on systems like pc and ps3? (ps2 support would be a great bonus but not a huge deal breaker)

    Thanks in advance!

    Get a zero delay encoder. The green one supports ps2, 3 and pc. Should be solderless unless you want a home button.

    [/quote]

    Aww cool thanks for the quick answer! Nah i'm fine without a home button:, where i can buy them around Europe?
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    edited July 2016
    Bernz wrote: »
    Bernz wrote: »
    Hello guys! I'm new here not sure if is here the right place to post but i have a question...I have a tatsuno vs capcom arcade stick which i really love , but unfortunately the board seems dead, i was wondering what could I do with the rest of the parts.
    Is there any kinda of cheap pcb (that doesn't require soldering) that i could put in there to work on systems like pc and ps3? (ps2 support would be a great bonus but not a huge deal breaker)

    Thanks in advance!

    Get a zero delay encoder. The green one supports ps2, 3 and pc. Should be solderless unless you want a home button.

    Aww cool thanks for the quick answer! Nah i'm fine without a home button:, where i can buy them around Europe? [/quote]

    They're on ebay. Just search "ps2 ps3 pc encoder"
  • BernzBernz Joined: Posts: 4
    Ah okay thx :)
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    edited July 2016
    Megahurtz wrote: »
    Hi friendly folks :)

    I have a 360 SFIV TE1 stick I'm prepping to convert to a Brook UFB. To get ready, I unplugged all three headers from the guide/turbo panel. Reconnected them while I'm waiting for parts to ship, but once I put everything back together, something seemed wrong.

    When I plug the TE1 into my 360 with the switch set to LS, I can't navigate through the 360 dashboard. Setting it to DP works. When I load up SSF4 AE and enter the practice mode, LS works to input joystick commands.

    My question: Is LS not working in the 360 dashboard the usual behavior for a TE1? Or have I messed something up? How would LS work in game, but not on the dash?

    Thanks for your help!

    Check your wiring and make sure you didn't break something.

    LS is "Lstick" on the madcatz turbo PCB front panel, but it's on one of the CM4-CM6 pins. Make sure that's connected to the right pins, but the 360 has jumper molex blocks for CM4, CM5 and CM6, so everything on that block should work.
    I don't remember the wiring. But it's possible you plugged in the wrong molex to the wrong connector.

    When you do get the UFB, if you want to use LS selector on your madcatz and not use the UFB combination keys switch (Start+left for 3 seconds, start+up for 3 seconds, etc) to switch to LS, you would connect "LS" pin on UFB, to "Lstick" pin on the Madcatz front panel pin. (I just don't remember if its cm4, cm5 or cm6). You also need to make sure GND is connected. Only one GND needs to be connected from the UFB to the madcatz as its common ground.

  • MegahurtzMegahurtz Joined: Posts: 13
    edited July 2016
    Falkentyne wrote: »
    Megahurtz wrote: »
    Hi friendly folks :)

    I have a 360 SFIV TE1 stick I'm prepping to convert to a Brook UFB. To get ready, I unplugged all three headers from the guide/turbo panel. Reconnected them while I'm waiting for parts to ship, but once I put everything back together, something seemed wrong.

    When I plug the TE1 into my 360 with the switch set to LS, I can't navigate through the 360 dashboard. Setting it to DP works. When I load up SSF4 AE and enter the practice mode, LS works to input joystick commands.

    My question: Is LS not working in the 360 dashboard the usual behavior for a TE1? Or have I messed something up? How would LS work in game, but not on the dash?

    Thanks for your help!

    Check your wiring and make sure you didn't break something.

    LS is "Lstick" on the madcatz turbo PCB front panel, but it's on one of the CM4-CM6 pins. Make sure that's connected to the right pins, but the 360 has jumper molex blocks for CM4, CM5 and CM6, so everything on that block should work.
    I don't remember the wiring. But it's possible you plugged in the wrong molex to the wrong connector.

    When you do get the UFB, if you want to use LS selector on your madcatz and not use the UFB combination keys switch (Start+left for 3 seconds, start+up for 3 seconds, etc) to switch to LS, you would connect "LS" pin on UFB, to "Lstick" pin on the Madcatz front panel pin. (I just don't remember if its cm4, cm5 or cm6). You also need to make sure GND is connected. Only one GND needs to be connected from the UFB to the madcatz as its common ground.

    Thanks for responding. I will double check the headers are in the correct spot, but I'm pretty sure they are.

    I also did some more testing with other games. Loaded up Dark Souls and went through all 3 settings. Confirmed in game that LS, DP, and RS are all doing their thing and working correctly. So as of now, I'm fairly confident in the wiring, but LS still doesn't work in the dashboard. I'm wondering if it could be because the TE1 isn't a first party 360 controller??

    I would *really* appreciate it if somebody with a first run 360 TE1 could connect it to their 360 and see if LS will let them navigate the dash. I just always left my stick on DP, so it could have been like this all along!

    Edit: Oh, and thanks for the UFB tip. I'm going to try wiring up everything from the Turbo panel. Guide, LS/DP/RS switch, and the turbo key. Haven't decided yet if I want to keep that as a turbo switch or connect it to tpkey...
  • real_vreal_v Joined: Posts: 38
    Anyone know if Madcatz still planning on releasing the Namco noir for the TE2 line.
    Mad Catz to Release Namco Noir Style Replacement Panel

    I just got a te2+, and this was one of the reasons i got it.
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,452
    real_v wrote: »
    Anyone know if Madcatz still planning on releasing the Namco noir for the TE2 line.
    Mad Catz to Release Namco Noir Style Replacement Panel

    I just got a te2+, and this was one of the reasons i got it.

    Given the current state of Madcatz's business, don't hold your breath.
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • TenshoTensho Joined: Posts: 2,866
    Should have gotten something that came with that layout like an Etokki Omni(That I would choose over Mad Catz any day), even older sticks like the Hrap 3 that aren't Noir but Astro so the button layout is the same but the stick is slightly closer to the buttons and just mod it with a Fightboard or UFB, tek-innovation has Astro layout too but maybe you can get in Noir also?
  • BakaHazeBakaHaze Joined: Posts: 21
    edited July 2016
    Hey guys, I'm trying to mod a WWE brawlstick

    However, the IST breakout board for the brook ps3/ps4 won't work since the quick disconnects have the ground connected in series where as the start/select buttons on the brawlstick aren't 30mm sanwas, they're just some normal buttons and are individually grounded.

    Any help on finding a workaround would be awesome.

    Cheers.
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    1. Take the ground wires
    2. Splice them into one
    3. Connect to GND
    4. ?????
    5. profit
  • BakaHazeBakaHaze Joined: Posts: 21
    1. Take the ground wires
    2. Splice them into one
    3. Connect to GND
    4. ?????
    5. profit

    lol you're giving me way to much credit here. I'm using the quick disconnect breakout boards because the most complicated thing I can assemble is like lego.
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    @BakaHaze check your PM
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    BakaHaze wrote: »
    1. Take the ground wires
    2. Splice them into one
    3. Connect to GND
    4. ?????
    5. profit

    lol you're giving me way to much credit here. I'm using the quick disconnect breakout boards because the most complicated thing I can assemble is like lego.

    Splicing isn't complicated lmao. Just get a wire nut and twist
  • DominicanPowerDominicanPower Shit Iz Real Joined: Posts: 1,069
    can a pcb be the culprit of missed inputs?
  • drunkards_walkdrunkards_walk Joined: Posts: 3,438
    Hey all, I'm looking to get a new joystick for my TE2 as my current one is getting worn out and become hard to push. I was wondering if you could recommend some good ones for me? I like something without a lot of tension, so I can basically just tap my stick and have it do the command. Also, are there any sort of mods that would help?
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    edited July 2016
    You can restore a joystick easily. It only consists of a few parts.
    It's possible your stick only needs to be cleaned and re-lubed, so start with 1:

    1) Shin Etsu G-30M or G-40M, whichever is cheaper.
    https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9013-Silicone-Grease/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31toADZwIhL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&psc=1&refRID=NRM3SSR6ED5AQEMB130F
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Z9TZ9M/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    G-40M is what the joysticks come with stock, but it's more expensive. G40M is designed for higher operating temps than G-30M but both have the same effect--just buy whatever is cheaper.
    https://www.focusattack.com/shin-etsu-g-40m-silicone-grease-100g/

    After cleaning all the gunk and cat hairs out of the stick, you want a thin layer of shin etsu on the joystick shaft and around the JLF Pivot. NEVER use vasoline (eats plastic) or third party "Lube Gel"--while this stuff might be fully safe for plastic, it's too vicious and thick for these types of parts.

    2) Replacement JLF 0.9lb spring, 2 lb JLF medium strength spring (For those who don't like sloppy sticks), LS-55 spring (1.75lb).

    3) new actuator. Your actuator may be worn out, although this wouldn't make a stick "hard to push". It's cheap anyway so it doesn't hurt to buy one. You can get stock actuators, Paradise shop oversized actuators, Kowal actuators, whatever you wish.

    One thing that many people here neglect to do is to clean their microswitches out. If the contacts get dirty, you start getting double, intermittent or dropped inputs. Many people will just panic and replace the TP-MA assembly as the switches are soldered to it (on the old IL sticks, you would simply unscrew and screw on another microswitch). But with Deoxit D5 contact cleaner (everyone should have a can of this stuff), you can just EASILY open the microswitch housing (don't lose the red plunger, please), find where the "clicker" is for the switch and spray deoxit between the contacts, while using something lint free to clean it fully, then spray another coating and just close it. As long as the spring or latching mechanism isn't damaged somehow, the switch will work just like new. Testing for bad switches is impossible on a console (you will only get results with VERY bad switches). You will need a PC with Joytokey set to X16 processing speed (Important) and Elite Keyboards' Switch Hitter to show the results of "chattering". Note that even brand new Sanwa buttons may often show <4ms chatter if you try to press or depress them very slowly at the start of the activation point (as there is no latching click mechanism), but the joystick should show NO chattering at all.


    Don't know how to disassemble a JLF?
    Focusattack has an easy chart on disassembly and reassembly.

    Good luck!

  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    can a pcb be the culprit of missed inputs?

    It can, but USUALLY unless there is a defective PCB itself or bad solder points, this would happen across the entire line of the PCB, or you have bad microswitches. The first revision of the Hori Rap4 Kai--the one WITHOUT the PC Xinput switch, was known to drop inputs.

    What PCB and joystick type is the issue here?
  • drunkards_walkdrunkards_walk Joined: Posts: 3,438
    Falkentyne wrote: »
    You can restore a joystick easily. It only consists of a few parts.
    It's possible your stick only needs to be cleaned and re-lubed, so start with 1:

    1) Shin Etsu G-30M or G-40M, whichever is cheaper.
    https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9013-Silicone-Grease/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=31toADZwIhL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=NRM3SSR6ED5AQEMB130F
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Z9TZ9M/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    G-40M is what the joysticks come with stock, but it's more expensive. G40M is designed for higher operating temps than G-30M but both have the same effect--just buy whatever is cheaper.
    https://www.focusattack.com/shin-etsu-g-40m-silicone-grease-100g/

    After cleaning all the gunk and cat hairs out of the stick, you want a thin layer of shin etsu on the joystick shaft and around the JLF Pivot. NEVER use vasoline (eats plastic) or third party "Lube Gel"--while this stuff might be fully safe for plastic, it's too vicious and thick for these types of parts.

    2) Replacement JLF 0.9lb spring, 2 lb JLF medium strength spring (For those who don't like sloppy sticks), LS-55 spring (1.75lb).

    3) new actuator. Your actuator may be worn out, although this wouldn't make a stick "hard to push". It's cheap anyway so it doesn't hurt to buy one. You can get stock actuators, Paradise shop oversized actuators, Kowal actuators, whatever you wish.

    One thing that many people here neglect to do is to clean their microswitches out. If the contacts get dirty, you start getting double, intermittent or dropped inputs. Many people will just panic and replace the TP-MA assembly as the switches are soldered to it (on the old IL sticks, you would simply unscrew and screw on another microswitch). But with Deoxit D5 contact cleaner (everyone should have a can of this stuff), you can just EASILY open the microswitch housing (don't lose the red plunger, please), find where the "clicker" is for the switch and spray deoxit between the contacts, while using something lint free to clean it fully, then spray another coating and just close it. As long as the spring or latching mechanism isn't damaged somehow, the switch will work just like new. Testing for bad switches is impossible on a console (you will only get results with VERY bad switches). You will need a PC with Joytokey set to X16 processing speed (Important) and Elite Keyboards' Switch Hitter to show the results of "chattering". Note that even brand new Sanwa buttons may often show <4ms chatter if you try to press or depress them very slowly at the start of the activation point (as there is no latching click mechanism), but the joystick should show NO chattering at all.


    Don't know how to disassemble a JLF?
    Focusattack has an easy chart on disassembly and reassembly.

    Good luck!

    Awesome, I bought some of the grease, a new spring, and I picked up an "Oversize Actuator" because it sounds like something that could really help me out. I have pretty much no idea what I'm doing, but I can't imagine it being too hard. I'll check out the tutorial you mentioned. Thanks for the help
  • real_vreal_v Joined: Posts: 38
    For anyone that plays Street Fighter 5 on pc and has a Madcatz tes+ or te2+, do the l3/r3 and touchpad work for the ingame shortcuts( in training mode, etc)?
  • ClandestineClandestine Patiently waiting for CvS3 Joined: Posts: 525
    L3 and R3 will work on PC and can be used to reset training and trials mode respectively, but touchpad won't work.
  • real_vreal_v Joined: Posts: 38
    L3 and R3 will work on PC and can be used to reset training and trials mode respectively, but touchpad won't work.

    Thank you
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