Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

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  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 644
    edited May 13
    So... if you ever get fed up with the radio silence, and get your money back---check out Allfightsticks.com or hit up @Allfightsticks . Better yet, hit him up on FaceBook. You'll be amazed at how quickly he responds.

    No the cases aren't acrylic (better...they're metal)... At least you can order a case with a nifty acrylic bottom-panel window :wink:
    Post edited by jopamo on
  • EldritchOnRyeEldritchOnRye Joined: Posts: 61
    Any idea what those, or even Jasen's, metal cases weigh? Other than the higher price the potential size and weight for lap play have been my sticking points in considering them.
    PSN: EldritchOnRye
    SFV, Injustice 2 Soon™
  • BubbledotjpgBubbledotjpg Joined: Posts: 223
    I think jasens weighs 8 pounds. I just had the guy from allfightsticks put me together a custom hitbox with the metal frame then an acryllic bottom and top panel to reduce to weight. If I remember he clocked it in at 6.4 pounds. It's a load of difference.
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,260
    Any idea what those, or even Jasen's, metal cases weigh? Other than the higher price the potential size and weight for lap play have been my sticking points in considering them.

    The Panzer Fight Stick clocks in at just about 8lbs, mostly due to the thicker metal I use in my cases for strength and durability. In the Panzer 2, with the acrylic bottom, there wasn't a huge savings in weight with the bottom cutout and it added what I consider a "weak spot". I say that because it wasn't as strong as an all metal bottom. The good thing about the Panzer 3: super easy to put together (time wise, wiring wise, etc compared to the Panzer 2 that had a metal frame and multiple parts) due to the unique EZ BUILD system included in every one and the simplicity of the design.

    Many of my customers are lap players; I actually got away from the first iteration of feet I used in favor of the current feet (introduced 2 years ago) to ease pressure points on the legs. I am investigating adding an option for a rubber pad on the bottom of the case for even more options and more surface area for lap players to further maximize comfort. Some folks have done it on their own with an exacto and craft foams though quite successfully.
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year Co-Recipient

    - Jasen's Customs Facebook, it's where the pictures are: Facebook
    - Follow me on Twitter to see what new things I am adding: Twitter
    - Learn something? I try to publish all of my creations and tutorials at: The TechBlog
  • EldritchOnRyeEldritchOnRye Joined: Posts: 61
    I think jasens weighs 8 pounds. I just had the guy from allfightsticks put me together a custom hitbox with the metal frame then an acryllic bottom and top panel to reduce to weight. If I remember he clocked it in at 6.4 pounds. It's a load of difference.

    I guess that's not as bad as I thought since similar grade commercial sticks are listed at 7-8 pounds. The ~3 pounds of a plexi case definitely sounds nicer but then there's feel and durability to consider. It's all so abstract and hard to accurately imagine this sort of stuff too when you have limited practical reference. So much money involved you want to get it right too.
    PSN: EldritchOnRye
    SFV, Injustice 2 Soon™
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,260
    I guess that's not as bad as I thought since similar grade commercial sticks are listed at 7-8 pounds. The ~3 pounds of a plexi case definitely sounds nicer but then there's feel and durability to consider. It's all so abstract and hard to accurately imagine this sort of stuff too when you have limited practical reference. So much money involved you want to get it right too.

    I can tell you I have at least 10 customers that have gutted their acrylic sticks and used the parts in a Panzer. Stress cracks from play over time are a real thing.
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year Co-Recipient

    - Jasen's Customs Facebook, it's where the pictures are: Facebook
    - Follow me on Twitter to see what new things I am adding: Twitter
    - Learn something? I try to publish all of my creations and tutorials at: The TechBlog
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 644
    edited May 13
    I guess that's not as bad as I thought since similar grade commercial sticks are listed at 7-8 pounds. The ~3 pounds of a plexi case definitely sounds nicer but then there's feel and durability to consider. It's all so abstract and hard to accurately imagine this sort of stuff too when you have limited practical reference. So much money involved you want to get it right too.

    I can tell you I have at least 10 customers that have gutted their acrylic sticks and used the parts in a Panzer. Stress cracks from play over time are a real thing.

    Yup. I baby the shit out of my TEK cases out of fear of cracking. I had one of them weighed down with BBs for A DAY and one of my buddies accidentally dropped it from the couch (2') to the carpet. While nothing cracked (and spilled) I took them out the same day. I also wouldn't think of taking these out for a local event or traveling.

    You want sturdy?...you choose wood or metal. Period.
  • EldritchOnRyeEldritchOnRye Joined: Posts: 61
    Jeez Jasen, it's like you knew I was watching the video of the build or something. Think you guys are getting me to take a second look.
    PSN: EldritchOnRye
    SFV, Injustice 2 Soon™
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 644
    edited May 13
    Panzers have been Stick of the Year for a long time. You should request your money back from Marvelous Customs and order a Panzer 3. I'd also buy one, but I've got two Allfightsticks case builds in-progress right now. Wifey would murder me with the Panzer upon delivery.
  • WallachWallach Joined: Posts: 192
    edited May 13
    Wallach wrote: »
    Anyone here put in a pre-built order with Marvelous Customs recently? Just wondering what their turnaround time is on their acrylic setups. Haven't been responsive to email so far.

    Yes, me. I actually made this account to let you know you're not alone (long time lurker, first time poster). I made my order last week, and since then, radio silence. I think it particularly stands out because other sites that sell fightstick stuff are seem so much more communicative in this regard. I've ordered from Paradise arcade, Focus attack and arcade shock in the past few months, and all of those sites are good at letting you know the status of the order. Marvelous customs just lets you know that they got your order, and their website is barebones, with no FAQ/info section with things like turnaround time.


    Like you though, I'm not sweating it. It's only been a week and I know getting this custom acrylic work can take some time. I haven't sent them an email because I understand that, but I've ordered from Art's Hobbies too and Art is great at getting back to emails. If you don't mind, can you let me know how it goes with your hitbox? I will do the same with my joystick.

    PS- Great avatar. That whole season of X-files was a trip.

    I managed to contact someone there via Facebook message. First I asked if the contact e-mail on the new website was accurate, because nobody answered my original e-mail or the questions I attached to the order form. All they said was that was indeed the correct e-mail. I also asked what their current turnaround time was, and they said 2-3 weeks. I still have not received an e-mail response.

    I'm not real thrilled at the moment and am pondering just cancelling this order.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 644
    edited May 13
    If it takes that much effort to get a hold of someone BEFORE they've delivered on your order...
    Imagine how much effort would be required to get them to respond (and act) once the item has been delivered and has an issue?

    Not worth it...
  • ProphylactusProphylactus Preventer of Worlds Joined: Posts: 21
    jopamo wrote: »
    So... if you ever get fed up with the radio silence, and get your money back---check out @Allfightsticks or hit up Allfightsticks.com. Better yet, hit him up on FaceBook. You'll be amazed at how quickly he responds.

    No the cases aren't acrylic (better...they're metal)... At least you can order a case with a nifty acrylic bottom-panel window :wink:

    They don't look as cool to me as the MC cases, despite being made of better materials. They're also more expensive (not surprising due to said better build materials). It's good to have another option though, especially one that's good with customers. I will def consider them if MC drop the ball.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 644
    edited May 13
    I wholeheartedly disagree, but it's cool. To each his/her own.

    Just don't drop it...:wink:
  • EldritchOnRyeEldritchOnRye Joined: Posts: 61
    edited May 14
    So I'm still giving Jasen's stuff a second look but while digging through the garage for the hedge clippers today I was reminded there's a large piece of wood hanging out in there. 4.5' x 2' x .5' and I'm guessing plywood since you can see four or five distinct layers of grain on the unpainted edge. Mostly painted green and looks like it was part of a larger sign and was scrap but seems true and, without sanding it down, looks to be in good shape other than some nail holes around the very edge. So I figure I'll sand the paint off it this week and see if it's usable and see if I can't fashion a passable box out of it. Anyway, on to my current questions!

    Any suggestions on where you could find 24 and 30 mm drill bits? Having trouble finding many metric options that don't seem questionable or prohibitively expensive.

    I realize that snap in buttons won't latch on a panel 1/2" thick but will they still sit snugly in the holes of a thicker panel? Or would I be better coming up with some solution to thin around the buttons (that doesn't involve buying a router)?

    Does anyone know how much extra depth the quick disconnects add to the buttons? Kicking around the idea of something completely minimal (probably 10" x 6") but know that will be a tight fit and wouldn't want to go that small and realize the auxiliary buttons are colliding with the face buttons. Maybe go six button layout to ease things a bit.

    I'm sure I'll think of more, I always do.
    PSN: EldritchOnRye
    SFV, Injustice 2 Soon™
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 644
    I bought these. They ain't perfect, but they do the job:
    30mm Forstner bit
    24mm Forstner bit
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 644
    edited May 14
    Silly question: would you sell your two UFB modded sticks..a TE rnd1 and SFxT VS for a Hori VLX?
    I never tried a VLX and a dude I met today told me that it pisses on both my commercial market sticks, "combined." That's quite the claim...
    With all the sticks I have at home I couldn't possibly bring home another, especially one so large--without offloading two other sticks. Would it be worth it?
  • WallachWallach Joined: Posts: 192
    jopamo wrote: »
    Silly question: would you sell your two UFB modded sticks..a TE rnd1 and SFxT VS for a Hori VLX?
    I never tried a VLX and a dude I met today told me that it pisses on both my commercial market sticks, "combined." That's quite the claim...
    With all the sticks I have at home I couldn't possibly bring home another, especially one so large--without offloading two other sticks. Would it be worth it?

    Nah. I am not crazy about the VLX; authentic maybe, but an authentic panel is basically a giant, heavy, mostly plastic arcade stick. The classic shitty Hori plastic cable door is especially annoying with the higher price tag of the VLX. The SFxT stick in particular I think I would prefer to a VLX, especially with a UFB inside.
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,260
    jopamo wrote: »
    Silly question: would you sell your two UFB modded sticks..a TE rnd1 and SFxT VS for a Hori VLX?
    I never tried a VLX and a dude I met today told me that it pisses on both my commercial market sticks, "combined." That's quite the claim...
    With all the sticks I have at home I couldn't possibly bring home another, especially one so large--without offloading two other sticks. Would it be worth it?

    I wouldn't get rid of sticks to get one, tbh. I own the Diamond, the Hayabusa, and the Kuro. They are all fine decorations on my fightstick shelf, but I don't use them. Ever.
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year Co-Recipient

    - Jasen's Customs Facebook, it's where the pictures are: Facebook
    - Follow me on Twitter to see what new things I am adding: Twitter
    - Learn something? I try to publish all of my creations and tutorials at: The TechBlog
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 644
    Nice collection. All you're missing is the Vewlix F one. There is no way that I could just leave that on the shelf. I lack the discipline. Ok, thanks for the help, guys.
  • cutejay012cutejay012 Joined: Posts: 21
    I have a few Madcatz Tekken Tag Tournament 2 Arcade Fightstick TES Wii U Edition and I'm in the process of installing Brook UFBs in them. I'm having trouble locating the solder points on the Wii U TEs PCB to connect the home button and turbo button (for TP key maybe) to the Brook UFB. I've searched and searched and only came across one thread where someone asked for the same thing. He got comments but no answers and that was a 2-year-old thread.
    Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
    716q_NJrcx_FL_SL1500.jpg
    385712_IMG0134.jpg

    936874_IMG0133.jpg

    *BONUS* The solder points for the
    DP, LS, RS switch
    Player LEDs
    Would also be great!!! Any help at all. Thank you.
    My Zanbatos' name isn't important.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 644
    Guess you didn't like my answer LOL. You're welcome anyway :tongue:
  • cutejay012cutejay012 Joined: Posts: 21
    @jopamo Yes, I did. I'm using your advice.
    I'm using my multimeter but I just can't find the points. I saw a video of someone that found the points on it but someone else asked him how/where but he didn't answer really.
    Just thought I'd try here. Maybe
    But it doesn't look like I'm going to get an answer here neither. Which is ok. I'll just have to figure out something else.
    My Zanbatos' name isn't important.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 644
    edited May 15
    I understand. I was just messing around. Gummo makes a board that would take this PCB out of the equation completely. By the way, there are no player LEDs on that board. But Gummo's board has 'em :smile:

    Hi @Gummo . Would you be able to help out @cutejay012 with his requested solder points on the existing PCB? Perhaps you can convince him to ditch this board while you're at it ;-)
  • GummoGummo Can We Mod It? Yes, We Can! Joined: Posts: 5,484
    @cutejay012 Order one of my home panel replacement boards! It plugs straight into the ufb.
    Website: http://www.gummods.com
    Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/gummowned
    Twitter: @Gummowned
    Will be providing my modding services at EVO @ the Madcatz booth!
  • BubbledotjpgBubbledotjpg Joined: Posts: 223
    Amateur electricity question. How do I know if my device is pulling too much power? I'm going to be doing a dual mod with a Brooks UFB and an mc cthulu and wanted to add a kaimana kameleon to it. Am I going to run into issues with disconnects from it requiring too much power?
  • cutejay012cutejay012 Joined: Posts: 21
    @Gummo Where do you buy these? Looks like your website is down or something. Or does another retailer carry them?
    My Zanbatos' name isn't important.
  • GummoGummo Can We Mod It? Yes, We Can! Joined: Posts: 5,484
    cutejay012 wrote: »
    @Gummo Where do you buy these? Looks like your website is down or something. Or does another retailer carry them?
    Should be able to order from my site or Facebook page shop.
    http://www.gummowned.com/?page_id=313
    http://www.facebook.com/gummods
    Website: http://www.gummods.com
    Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/gummowned
    Twitter: @Gummowned
    Will be providing my modding services at EVO @ the Madcatz booth!
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 78
    I've been seeing rumours here and there but I can't find any definitive statements... Is the Brook UFB future proof? Will Brook be able to write firmware to support new consoles when they are released?
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Just a Bol of Sadguys Joined: Posts: 1,413
    blankaex wrote: »
    I've been seeing rumours here and there but I can't find any definitive statements... Is the Brook UFB future proof? Will Brook be able to write firmware to support new consoles when they are released?

    Don't see how anyone could know until said new consoles are actually released
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 644
    edited May 16
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    Don't see how anyone could know until said new consoles are actually released
    TOTALLY not the case, man. All you need is one of these:
    crystal_ball.jpg
    *Batteries (and Saruman) not included
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 78
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    I've been seeing rumours here and there but I can't find any definitive statements... Is the Brook UFB future proof? Will Brook be able to write firmware to support new consoles when they are released?

    Don't see how anyone could know until said new consoles are actually released
    jopamo wrote: »
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    Don't see how anyone could know until said new consoles are actually released
    TOTALLY not the case, man. All you need is one of these:
    crystal_ball.jpg
    *Batteries (and Saruman) not included
    Figured that would be the case, it didn't make any sense to me but it made me wonder why people bother to use a UFB over a PS3/4 board, or swap a PS4 stick's PCB for a UFB. Surely there aren't that many Xbone players...?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,260
    Amateur electricity question. How do I know if my device is pulling too much power? I'm going to be doing a dual mod with a Brooks UFB and an mc cthulu and wanted to add a kaimana kameleon to it. Am I going to run into issues with disconnects from it requiring too much power?

    The UFB pulls about 52-60 mA in use. (did a log test using a calibrated power supply and logged the results)
    The Kaimana Khameleon with all LEDs in screen saver mode can pull upto 435mA (did a log test using a calibrated power supply and logged the results)
    The MC Cthulhu probably uses around 40-60 mA as well. (estimated)

    USB 2.0 spec is 500mA

    Dim the lights on the KK to save some headroom. If you plug the rig in and it says "USB drawing too much power and has been disabled" on your PC... you went over 500mA. The best way to test is using a calibrated power supply, set the voltage to 5V hack a USB cable such that you expose the wires on the Console end and connect the red wire to the + terminal on the power supply and the black on the - terminal. The rig will power up and the calibrated supply (or test power supply if thats the name your prefer) will tell you the current draw.
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year Co-Recipient

    - Jasen's Customs Facebook, it's where the pictures are: Facebook
    - Follow me on Twitter to see what new things I am adding: Twitter
    - Learn something? I try to publish all of my creations and tutorials at: The TechBlog
  • zeththedarkmagezeththedarkmage Standing Fierce all day Joined: Posts: 804
    edited May 16
    Hey guys is the hori FC4 common ground? I wired one up to my hitbox but anytime I hold two directions, or two buttons, or a direction and a button it spams the two inputs over and over again like a turbo controller. Wasn't sure if it was a grounding issue or if I fucked something up along the way. The only thing I can think of beside a grounding issue would be that I spliced the USB cable to make it shorter to fix in the box with a neutrik pass through. Could I have just badly spliced my USB cord?
    DLC 8/25/07
    JMS 2/07/09

    "Only the good die young..."
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Just a Bol of Sadguys Joined: Posts: 1,413
    Yes it's common ground.
  • zeththedarkmagezeththedarkmage Standing Fierce all day Joined: Posts: 804
    So what could the issue be then? I get no weird interactions when I hold start, select, or home which are on a separate ground wire while holding a direction.
    DLC 8/25/07
    JMS 2/07/09

    "Only the good die young..."
  • zeththedarkmagezeththedarkmage Standing Fierce all day Joined: Posts: 804
    It's all good, apparently the ground was short out because I apparently burned the contact for the ground and it was firing intermittently. Resoldered to a different ground and it's working perfectly. Also the FC4 default to most recent directions in regards to SOCD so you don't need an SOCD cleaner. I.e. L+R=R R+L=L
    DLC 8/25/07
    JMS 2/07/09

    "Only the good die young..."
  • djdigidjdigi Joined: Posts: 8
    What model Seimitsu has the lightest spring? ty
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 20,862
    djdigi wrote: »
    What model Seimitsu has the lightest spring? ty

    LS-60 Unless their a higher model number
    Remember when Nintendo had an entire series that revolved around a character who used an arm-cannon for like everything?
    Pepperidge Farm remembers.
  • ZeFlashZeFlash Joined: Posts: 17
    I'm putting my TE's sanwa buttons in my RAP4 and for some reason in the X slot they are loose as fuck. The same button in the slot above it fits fine, they fit a lot tighter on my TE too. Are the RAP4 holes bigger or something?
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 20,862
    ZeFlash wrote: »
    I'm putting my TE's sanwa buttons in my RAP4 and for some reason in the X slot they are loose as fuck. The same button in the slot above it fits fine, they fit a lot tighter on my TE too. Are the RAP4 holes bigger or something?

    Snap-in buttons aren 't intended for transplants.
    Remember when Nintendo had an entire series that revolved around a character who used an arm-cannon for like everything?
    Pepperidge Farm remembers.
  • ZeFlashZeFlash Joined: Posts: 17
    edited May 17
    Darksakul wrote: »
    ZeFlash wrote: »
    I'm putting my TE's sanwa buttons in my RAP4 and for some reason in the X slot they are loose as fuck. The same button in the slot above it fits fine, they fit a lot tighter on my TE too. Are the RAP4 holes bigger or something?

    Snap-in buttons aren 't intended for transplants.

    I had a feeling that might be why. But they fit back in my TE fine. The button that fit snugly in the triangle slot was loose in the X slot and fine when I put that back in which is why I wasn't so sure. Especially as the Kuro buttons didn't seem like they wanted to fit in the TE without a lot of force being applied

    A Swana JLF joystick should fit in with no problems though right?
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 20,862
    ZeFlash wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    ZeFlash wrote: »
    I'm putting my TE's sanwa buttons in my RAP4 and for some reason in the X slot they are loose as fuck. The same button in the slot above it fits fine, they fit a lot tighter on my TE too. Are the RAP4 holes bigger or something?

    Snap-in buttons aren 't intended for transplants.

    I had a feeling that might be why. But they fit back in my TE fine. The button that fit snugly in the triangle slot was loose in the X slot and fine when I put that back in which is why I wasn't so sure. Especially as the Kuro buttons didn't seem like they wanted to fit in the TE without a lot of force being applied

    A Swana JLF joystick should fit in with no problems though right?

    The JLF should fit with no issues as you can tighten the screws down as much as you need.

    For your Hori being a slightly less thick them the TE, and the buttons are already "broken in".
    Screw in Buttons also bypass the issues for the same reasons, you can tighten as much as you would need.
    Remember when Nintendo had an entire series that revolved around a character who used an arm-cannon for like everything?
    Pepperidge Farm remembers.
  • ZeFlashZeFlash Joined: Posts: 17
    Darksakul wrote: »
    ZeFlash wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    ZeFlash wrote: »
    I'm putting my TE's sanwa buttons in my RAP4 and for some reason in the X slot they are loose as fuck. The same button in the slot above it fits fine, they fit a lot tighter on my TE too. Are the RAP4 holes bigger or something?

    Snap-in buttons aren 't intended for transplants.

    I had a feeling that might be why. But they fit back in my TE fine. The button that fit snugly in the triangle slot was loose in the X slot and fine when I put that back in which is why I wasn't so sure. Especially as the Kuro buttons didn't seem like they wanted to fit in the TE without a lot of force being applied

    A Swana JLF joystick should fit in with no problems though right?

    The JLF should fit with no issues as you can tighten the screws down as much as you need.

    For your Hori being a slightly less thick them the TE, and the buttons are already "broken in".
    Screw in Buttons also bypass the issues for the same reasons, you can tighten as much as you would need.

    Will screw ins fit the RAP4 without me dicking about with it?
  • LLeg3ndLLeg3nd Always Eating Joined: Posts: 239
    ZeFlash wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    ZeFlash wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    ZeFlash wrote: »
    I'm putting my TE's sanwa buttons in my RAP4 and for some reason in the X slot they are loose as fuck. The same button in the slot above it fits fine, they fit a lot tighter on my TE too. Are the RAP4 holes bigger or something?

    Snap-in buttons aren 't intended for transplants.

    I had a feeling that might be why. But they fit back in my TE fine. The button that fit snugly in the triangle slot was loose in the X slot and fine when I put that back in which is why I wasn't so sure. Especially as the Kuro buttons didn't seem like they wanted to fit in the TE without a lot of force being applied

    A Swana JLF joystick should fit in with no problems though right?

    The JLF should fit with no issues as you can tighten the screws down as much as you need.

    For your Hori being a slightly less thick them the TE, and the buttons are already "broken in".
    Screw in Buttons also bypass the issues for the same reasons, you can tighten as much as you would need.

    Will screw ins fit the RAP4 without me dicking about with it?

    It will fit in no problem as long as you screw them down good.
    twitch.tv/lleg3nd
  • ZeFlashZeFlash Joined: Posts: 17
    LLeg3nd wrote: »
    ZeFlash wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    ZeFlash wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    ZeFlash wrote: »
    I'm putting my TE's sanwa buttons in my RAP4 and for some reason in the X slot they are loose as fuck. The same button in the slot above it fits fine, they fit a lot tighter on my TE too. Are the RAP4 holes bigger or something?

    Snap-in buttons aren 't intended for transplants.

    I had a feeling that might be why. But they fit back in my TE fine. The button that fit snugly in the triangle slot was loose in the X slot and fine when I put that back in which is why I wasn't so sure. Especially as the Kuro buttons didn't seem like they wanted to fit in the TE without a lot of force being applied

    A Swana JLF joystick should fit in with no problems though right?

    The JLF should fit with no issues as you can tighten the screws down as much as you need.

    For your Hori being a slightly less thick them the TE, and the buttons are already "broken in".
    Screw in Buttons also bypass the issues for the same reasons, you can tighten as much as you would need.

    Will screw ins fit the RAP4 without me dicking about with it?

    It will fit in no problem as long as you screw them down good.

    Sound thanks, I was thinking I'd need to thread the faceplate or something
  • EldritchOnRyeEldritchOnRye Joined: Posts: 61
    edited May 17
    Nah, screw ins have their own plastic nuts that come with them but you can swap nuts between brands I believe and they have thinner ones available too. Mostly it just allows the buttons to work with a greater variety of panel thickness. You just have to make sure there's clearance around the button holes on the bottom side since some commercial sticks will have supports or whatever too close. Like my RAP EX I had years ago the A button was too close to the stick so you had to slide the nut under the stick's mounting plate and hold it in place while screwing the button in to it but the rest were fine.
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  • djdigidjdigi Joined: Posts: 8
    edited May 17
    delete
    Post edited by djdigi on
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 20,862
    Nah, screw ins have their own plastic nuts that come with them but you can swap nuts between brands I believe and they have thinner ones available too. Mostly it just allows the buttons to work with a greater variety of panel thickness. You just have to make sure there's clearance around the button holes on the bottom side since some commercial sticks will have supports or whatever too close. Like my RAP EX I had years ago the A button was too close to the stick so you had to slide the nut under the stick's mounting plate and hold it in place while screwing the button in to it but the rest were fine.

    Sanwa brand button nuts are thicker, Seimitsu nuts are thinner. The two are interchangeable.
    Also the Sanwa nuts will sorta work with a Happs button wrench, at one point the Happs wrench was on the Sanwa catalog.

    Some people use Seimitsu nuts on Sanwa buttons, especially in tight areas.

    I personally Just use Seimtisu Screw In buttons and call it a day
    Remember when Nintendo had an entire series that revolved around a character who used an arm-cannon for like everything?
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  • zeohizeohi Joined: Posts: 4
    i have a ps4/pc hitbox which i got super early on. i am unable to use it on a ps4 due to the 8 minute timeout. i read about updating the firmware however i've tried dozens of firmware update installers (from both brook and hitbox) and none of them seem to really work. i've been using my hitbox on pc, windows recognizes it, yet the firmware doesn't really seem to. i replug it in the usb socket holding the buttons (ps + select) and nothing happens. tried different usb, tried different computer. trying on windows 10 to no avail. anyone been able to successfully update their hitbox.. ever? what firmware did you use?
  • sucramsucram I like bean jam Joined: Posts: 26
    Hey guys, got a quick question if you don't mind. I'm a somewhat noob modder who likes these little projects and was looking for some suggestions.

    I'm modding my Xbox 360 TE-S with the PS4+ Fighting Board with Audio, I'm looking to drill a hole into the casing so I can have a third 24mm button in addition to the 2 up top. Any suggestions on where to place it on the stick? I was thinking on the right side, but it seems like there are some support posts there.

    I also ordered a USB A to USB B feedthrough, any suggestions on a spot where I can hollow out some space on the stick?

    If space is available, any suggestions on where to add the audio board? I know it's a lot, but any help is appreciated!
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