Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

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  • ClandestineClandestine Patiently waiting for CvS3 Joined: Posts: 522
    anzhar wrote: »
    Tensho wrote: »
    KYO84 wrote: »
    I had a question about the Shin-Etsu Silicone Grease. Should it only be applied on the pivot of the stick or can it be used on the actuator as well? Thanks guys!

    Don't put it on the actuator.

    yes im a dumb mofo

    please can you show using a basic sketch using ms paint, which is the pivot

    i know the actuator, but not sure the pivot

    This should help
    http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/joystick_components.html
  • DeeQueDeeQue Can't Kill Kawaii Joined: Posts: 278
    Question about USB feed throughs (like the Neutrik NAUSB-W-B A/B USB Feed-Through)

    I have an arduino micro that I'm going to use as a controller PCB. It has a micro usb port.

    I want to plug it into my computer, which has a regular usb port.

    I need a short cable to run from the Arduino to the feed-through, then another cable to go from the feed-through to my computer.

    Where my confusion arises is that I'm not sure what type of ends go into the feed through. It looks like one end looks like an Ethernet cable? and apparently there's a special data connector?

    What exactly do I have to buy to go from the Micro usb port to the feed through and then to my computer?





  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,587
    edited September 2016
    The two most common feed throughs used in sticks are the USB neutrik and the RJ45 neutrik (Switchcraft connectors of the same types have also been used). The RJ45 one has RJ45 female on both sides. The USB one has a USB A female on one side and USB B female on the other, and is reversible by unscrewing it from the plate. I'm not sure what you mean by special data connector. If you mean this, it's just a housing for the end of your RJ45 cable that plugs into the RJ45 neutrik to keep it sturdy. If you don't want to crimp RJ45 connectors onto your USB cables, get the Neutrik (or switchcraft) USB feed through, take a USB micro to type A cable and plug it into your Neutrik and microcontroller, and then take a USB A to B cable to plug in from the other side of your feed through to your computer.
  • KYO84KYO84 Riddle Solver Joined: Posts: 1,235 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    Tensho wrote: »
    KYO84 wrote: »
    I had a question about the Shin-Etsu Silicone Grease. Should it only be applied on the pivot of the stick or can it be used on the actuator as well? Thanks guys!

    Don't put it on the actuator.

    Ok, thank you. Is there anywhere else on the stick I can apply grease to, besides the pivot?
    "Better that we die on our feet than live on our knees!" Magneto
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,096
    edited September 2016
    KYO84 wrote: »

    Ok, thank you. Is there anywhere else on the stick I can apply grease to, besides the pivot?

    Honestly, you just need to decently coat (don't drown) the exterior surface area of the pivot. Some people put a bit extra in the following places (IMHO, however, it's not really needed):
    - interior area of the pivot that makes contact with the shaft,
    - pivot chamber in the main body, and/or
    - washer that makes contact with the spring base and the main body.
  • IbokiIboki Joined: Posts: 206
    edited September 2016
    Is there a way to put together an LS-33 nowadays? From what I can tell almost everything is readily available except the lever, gate and actuator, and I have a spare lever so I wonder if any other stick uses its gate and actuator.
    Unrelated question: Is there any adaptor for a generic dinput stick to work on an xinput machine (namely an Xbox 360 :P)? I bought a Brook converter a long time ago for my old stick which worked on my PS3 which accepts everything I know, but no dice on 360, and I was told that converter's firmware can't be updated.
  • radiumcabinetradiumcabinet Joined: Posts: 5
    I'm looking to build a couple of arcade sticks. I'd like the option to use them in the usual manner or at a distance of up to 7 m (the distance between my TV and computer). Tournament concerns don't matter. The sticks only need to work with PCs. Is this doable? What's the best approach: cables or wifi? How responsive and reliable would these sticks be at a distance of 7 m?

    I'd prefer not to use batteries. Is it possible to power the stick by usb but send signals via wifi with the option of sending them via usb instead? PCBs to look at? Sorry if this has been gone over, I couldn't find what I was looking for.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,096
    edited September 2016
    I say that you stick to wired connections. Someone here might bite my face off for saying this but, using wireless controllers for fighting games kinda sucks.

    It just adds too many variables that could cause interference and negatively affect gameplay..

    If you are using a regular USB 2.0 cable, the max length you could run before running into signal problems is 5 meters. However, with an ACTIVE USB cable extension, then the maximum length for USB 2.0 would be 25 meters (including the original cable and its extension.)

    I had a similar predicament long ago in a shared loft apartment with a large living room. I ran Mad Catz TE and Hori SCV Xbox 360 sticks (with 4m and 3m built-in cables, respectively) to my PC across the room using 4.5m active USB extensions. I didn't run any tournaments in that space, but I had no complaints, nor received any (other than my friends and roommates bitching about getting their asses handed to them , of course).

  • sasquachsasquach MvC2 making a comeback 2017? Joined: Posts: 368
    jopamo wrote: »
    I say that you stick to wired connections. Someone here might bite my face off for saying this but, using wireless controllers for fighting games kinda sucks.

    It just adds too many variables that could cause interference and negatively affect gameplay..

    If you are using a regular USB 2.0 cable, the max length you could run before running into signal problems is 5 meters. However, with an ACTIVE USB cable extension, then the maximum length for USB 2.0 would be 25 meters (including the original cable and its extension.)

    I had a similar predicament long ago in a shared loft apartment with a large living room. I ran Mad Catz TE and Hori SCV Xbox 360 sticks (with 4m and 3m built-in cables, respectively) to my PC across the room using 4.5m active USB extensions. I didn't run any tournaments in that space, but I had no complaints, nor received any (other than my friends and roommates bitching about getting their asses handed to them , of course).

    Lag is stupid, go wired. But yea that should be the best method if anything. For PCBs, an old third party Xbox 360 PCB works. Or even a Zero Delay PS3 PCB works too.
    "I'm just nice" -Harry Potter
  • radiumcabinetradiumcabinet Joined: Posts: 5
    Thanks jopamo & sasquach. Active repeater usb cables look like the solution.
  • blenloreblenlore Joined: Posts: 3
    edited September 2016
    I'm trying to mod a standard lever that uses basic snap action microswitches to use magnetic Hall effect switches/sensors instead. I have very little experience with electronics and am wondering if anyone here has worked with Hall switches (or built Hall effect sticks), and could give me some starting pointers. Apologies if there's already a thread or beginner's guide about this somewhere that I missed. My main questions right now are:
    1. What model Hall switch would be most suitable for replacing snap-action switches in a standard lever? Searching for "Hall effect sensor" on Digikey/Mouser gives a ton of results, and I don't know what specs I should be looking for. It also looks like most of them are board-mounted and require soldering, but I was hoping someone can point me to one that's already fitted with 0.187" QCDs, or just wires that I could crimp connectors to.
    2. I'm hoping that I can rig something up that I can connect directly to the 5-pin input (ground+ULDR) on a standard stick PCB (MadCatz, Hori, etc). Will it be necessary to put in an Arduino or custom PCB to handle the conversion from Hall switch output to stick 5-pin input, or will I be able to get by with just crimping a few extra connections? If the former, how much lag is an extra PCB going to introduce? Has anyone modded a stick with Hall sensors, or know of a guide I could follow?
    3. I'm probably going to glue a magnet to the shaft. How strong of a magnet should I use? Does the shape matter, and should it be square, round, or octagonal?
    4. More generally, has anyone used a Hall effect stick for fighting games and liked/disliked it? I'm wondering if there are any pitfalls I should know about in advance to avoid, in terms of design or anything else.
    What I'm planning to do is roughly the "Version 1.2.0" section in this post, but I don't know if doing it exactly with those steps is necessary or the best way.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,096
    edited September 2016
    Hi @blenlore. I believe Paradise Arcade Shop was working on a similar project ("Magenta") a few years back. HERE is the thread.
    Doesn't look like there's been much action lately. Perhaps a reason to resurrect?
  • sasquachsasquach MvC2 making a comeback 2017? Joined: Posts: 368
    jopamo wrote: »
    Hi @blenlore. I believe Paradise Arcade Shop was working on a similar project a few years back. HERE is the thread.
    Doesn't look like there's been much action lately. Perhaps a reason to resurrect?

    @armi0024 probably would say otherwise on that:
    I know this tweet is 2 months old, but he said new products are coming to the store this month or so... I'm sure Magenta is coming here soon enough. So have your hopes up on Magenta!
    "I'm just nice" -Harry Potter
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 120
    Anyone had any experience with the RAP V Hayabusa or similar? I'm thinking of installing a PS360+ or UFB into mine because muh F-tier input lag, but I want to preserve the usage of my side buttons and touch pad. I poked around inside and it looks like they have their own PCBs and they're connected to the RAP PCB with some standard harnesses. Is there a wiring diagram or something I can refer to so I can hook it up to a different PCB?
  • sasquachsasquach MvC2 making a comeback 2017? Joined: Posts: 368
    blankaex wrote: »
    Anyone had any experience with the RAP V Hayabusa or similar? I'm thinking of installing a PS360+ or UFB into mine because muh F-tier input lag, but I want to preserve the usage of my side buttons and touch pad. I poked around inside and it looks like they have their own PCBs and they're connected to the RAP PCB with some standard harnesses. Is there a wiring diagram or something I can refer to so I can hook it up to a different PCB?

    Does it really have an F tier PCB? Like it broke on you? Or the PCB is laggier than 1 frame (and Tech Talk as a whole have hard evidence of this which I'm pretty sure none of us sees an issues with the HRAP V's PCB)? But you can use them, but the PS360+ will never get true PS4 support, so don't even bother with that for PS4 support. Use a multimeter to find the pins of the side buttons and connect them to the UFB. Find the touchpad key as well the same way, but touchpad tracking support isn't in the UFB atm. Then wire up the face buttons, joystick, and options button all via the original wires that went into those inputs. If you still need the wiring schematics, then use the search function here if we have them. But do you really need the upgrade tho? If you need a cheaper alternative the Brook PS3/PS4 PCB also works great.
    "I'm just nice" -Harry Potter
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 120
    sasquach wrote: »
    Does it really have an F tier PCB? Like it broke on you? Or the PCB is laggier than 1 frame (and Tech Talk as a whole have hard evidence of this which I'm pretty sure none of us sees an issues with the HRAP V's PCB)? But you can use them, but the PS360+ will never get true PS4 support, so don't even bother with that for PS4 support. Use a multimeter to find the pins of the side buttons and connect them to the UFB. Find the touchpad key as well the same way, but touchpad tracking support isn't in the UFB atm. Then wire up the face buttons, joystick, and options button all via the original wires that went into those inputs. If you still need the wiring schematics, then use the search function here if we have them. But do you really need the upgrade tho? If you need a cheaper alternative the Brook PS3/PS4 PCB also works great.

    I remember being told it was one of the best sticks on the market, which is why I bought it in the first place. I've long since replaced the stock Hayabusa stick and Kuro buttons which are frankly terrible, and I recently discovered in the latency thread that it's been tested to have over 15ms of input lag (nearly 1 frame at 60FPS). The stick's only saving grace is that the case looks kinda cool.

    Thanks for the info on the two PCBs though, I wasn't aware of how limited they were. I've only worked with the Brook PS3/PS4 board in the past. I guess I'll hold back on doing anything with the PCB for now.
  • sasquachsasquach MvC2 making a comeback 2017? Joined: Posts: 368
    blankaex wrote: »
    sasquach wrote: »
    Does it really have an F tier PCB? Like it broke on you? Or the PCB is laggier than 1 frame (and Tech Talk as a whole have hard evidence of this which I'm pretty sure none of us sees an issues with the HRAP V's PCB)? But you can use them, but the PS360+ will never get true PS4 support, so don't even bother with that for PS4 support. Use a multimeter to find the pins of the side buttons and connect them to the UFB. Find the touchpad key as well the same way, but touchpad tracking support isn't in the UFB atm. Then wire up the face buttons, joystick, and options button all via the original wires that went into those inputs. If you still need the wiring schematics, then use the search function here if we have them. But do you really need the upgrade tho? If you need a cheaper alternative the Brook PS3/PS4 PCB also works great.

    I remember being told it was one of the best sticks on the market, which is why I bought it in the first place. I've long since replaced the stock Hayabusa stick and Kuro buttons which are frankly terrible, and I recently discovered in the latency thread that it's been tested to have over 15ms of input lag (nearly 1 frame at 60FPS). The stick's only saving grace is that the case looks kinda cool.

    Thanks for the info on the two PCBs though, I wasn't aware of how limited they were. I've only worked with the Brook PS3/PS4 board in the past. I guess I'll hold back on doing anything with the PCB for now.

    Someone would probably buy that Hayabusa off you if you put it up for a good price. But we don't really take the latency thread here seriously. Juuuuuuuuust fyi, but the UFB should be in stock in many arcade part retailers atm tho. So choose your pick if you want. Alternatively you could always sell your stick to someone and buy a replacement one. But just not here yet since you don't meet the requirements for SRK's Trading Outlet.
    "I'm just nice" -Harry Potter
  • mdsfxmdsfx Joined: Posts: 1,975
    Do Focus Attack button silencers work with Hayabusa buttons? Maybe with slight modification?
    OBEY THE JAM
  • HiYaPewPewHiYaPewPew Joined: Posts: 35
    Was wondering if anyone knew how to fix a soldering point on a seimitsu microswitch pcb? One of the soldering points lifted up and isn't contacting the trace. I didn't think I over tighten it when I installed a new gate but i'm guess thats when it happened. I have it soldered so it's contacting again but any movement with the microswitch seems like it will tear again. I was thinking about using plastic cement i use for modeling but wasn't sure how it would affect the pcb
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,587
    edited September 2016
    I had that same issue when I got my LS-56. What I did to fix it was I just soldered wires from the pins of the switches to the soldered pins of the 5 pin connector. I'll get a picture up later because it's 4AM and I'm tired.

    Edit: Here you go. The wiring is messy but it works. You get the idea.
    XXlPm2h.png
    Post edited by BolSadguy on
  • HiYaPewPewHiYaPewPew Joined: Posts: 35
    edited September 2016
    I had that same issue when I got my LS-56. What I did to fix it was I just soldered wires from the pins of the switches to the soldered pins of the 5 pin connector. I'll get a picture up later because it's 4AM and I'm tired.

    Edit: Here you go. The wiring is messy but it works. You get the idea.

    Thanks! but I was hoping to hold off on soldering directly to the pin and maybe use some kind of adhesive to stick it back on; i'm wondering what kind to use that won't be affected by the heat from the soldering iron
    Post edited by HiYaPewPew on
  • blenloreblenlore Joined: Posts: 3
    Wow, that Magenta product looks awesome and exactly like what I'm going for. Thanks jopamo and sasquach - I hope they release it soon so that I don't have to stumble through attempting to build one myself.
  • Shinkuu TatsumakiShinkuu Tatsumaki Joined: Posts: 6,780
    edited September 2016
    Edit: I found my answer already.
  • SwordSword Joined: Posts: 3
    edited September 2016
    I got a problem :/
    I bought a HRAP4 where one button stopped working. x360ce doesn't get any input from it. I swapped the cables to with button and saw that the button itself is working fine. So it's either the cables which are glued to the mainboard (hope it's called that way) or the main board itself. Soooo... 1. Is there an easy way to check where the issue lies? 2. How much do mainboards cost and which ones are compatible with the HRAP4? 3. Is there a good (european) site to get stuff from? Edit: The best one* I found a few that don't seem to sell mainboards
    I'd be thankful for any help :)
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,587
    Sword wrote: »
    I got a problem :/
    I bought a HRAP4 where one button stopped working. x360ce doesn't get any input from it. I swapped the cables to with button and saw that the button itself is working fine. So it's either the cables which are glued to the mainboard (hope it's called that way) or the main board itself. Soooo... 1. Is there an easy way to check where the issue lies? 2. How much do mainboards cost and which ones are compatible with the HRAP4? 3. Is there a good (european) site to get stuff from? Edit: The best one* I found a few that don't seem to sell mainboards
    I'd be thankful for any help :)

    Check that the wire for that signal is properly soldered to the board. If it is, there's probably a PCB problem. If you just want a PS3/PS4 board, look into the Brook PCBA. As for places to buy from, there's a list of shops seperated by region in one of the stickied threads.
  • SwordSword Joined: Posts: 3
    Thanks for the help :) It's the PCB it seems... sucks. Guess I need a new one.
    PCBA? What's the A for? Sorry, I'm new to the whole thing.
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,587
    edited September 2016
    Sword wrote: »
    Thanks for the help :) It's the PCB it seems... sucks. Guess I need a new one.
    PCBA? What's the A for? Sorry, I'm new to the whole thing.

    Edit: lol
    Post edited by BolSadguy on
  • VickoVicko Vegas Modder Extraordinaire! Joined: Posts: 2,829
    No, the A stands for assembly/assembled.
    No one used it until FA started to, and they don't know wtf they're talking about half the time so...
    SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year 2015
    Need a stick modded? I can dual mod, repair, and customize your stick or Hitbox for PS4/PS3/XB1/360

    www.vickomods.com
    lol
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,587
    Vicko wrote: »
    No, the A stands for assembly/assembled.
    No one used it until FA started to, and they don't know wtf they're talking about half the time so...

    Whoops, my bad :tongue:
  • SirSerpaSirSerpa Joined: Posts: 93
    Having a bit of an odd problem...
    Just reinstalled my ChimpSMD into an old stick I have and it works just fine on PC, but isn't recognized on PS3/4. Any thoughts on troubleshooting or fixing?
    Skrull Invasion
    "Just remember when you're not practicing that someone somewhere is and when you meet them, they will win." -Ed Macauley
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 22,836
    SirSerpa wrote: »
    Having a bit of an odd problem...
    Just reinstalled my ChimpSMD into an old stick I have and it works just fine on PC, but isn't recognized on PS3/4. Any thoughts on troubleshooting or fixing?

    I have responded to your question in the Cthulhu Thread
    http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/10986485/#Comment_10986485
    So it works fine in your PC but not your PS3?

    Is your ChimpSMD dual modded with anything?
    And if it is what the stick is being identified on your PC as? The Chimp or what ever Xbox 360 PCB you are using?

    Next time please don't post the same question in multiple threads.
    It only makes us who answers questions harder to keep track.
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • ayechpayechp Joined: Posts: 12
    How would I go about LED modding my HRAP 4 Kai? I've been racking my brain about this for a while now. Most of the people I see around here are using PCBs that shops don't sell anymore, so I'm at a loss. Also, if it is possible to LED mod it; would I have to compensate by switching to seimitsu screw-ins or would I still be able to use snap-ins?
  • sasquachsasquach MvC2 making a comeback 2017? Joined: Posts: 368
    ayechp wrote: »
    How would I go about LED modding my HRAP 4 Kai? I've been racking my brain about this for a while now. Most of the people I see around here are using PCBs that shops don't sell anymore, so I'm at a loss. Also, if it is possible to LED mod it; would I have to compensate by switching to seimitsu screw-ins or would I still be able to use snap-ins?

    You can use the Kaimana Mini LED board, here is a kit: http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/kaimana-led-series/1723-paradise-kaimana-mini-led-driver-pcb-8-button-kit.html?search_query=kaimana&results=43
    Then you would need a breakout of course if you don't have a Brook UFB or PS360+, this allows you to avoid soldering: http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/home/1667-kaimana-mini-breakout.html?search_query=kaimana&results=43

    As for the buttons, you can get away with using either snap in clears or screw in clears. This site has some links to help you wire it up: http://support.paradisearcadeshop.com/support/home
    "I'm just nice" -Harry Potter
  • ayechpayechp Joined: Posts: 12
    sasquach wrote: »
    ayechp wrote: »
    How would I go about LED modding my HRAP 4 Kai? I've been racking my brain about this for a while now. Most of the people I see around here are using PCBs that shops don't sell anymore, so I'm at a loss. Also, if it is possible to LED mod it; would I have to compensate by switching to seimitsu screw-ins or would I still be able to use snap-ins?

    You can use the Kaimana Mini LED board, here is a kit: http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/kaimana-led-series/1723-paradise-kaimana-mini-led-driver-pcb-8-button-kit.html?search_query=kaimana&results=43
    Then you would need a breakout of course if you don't have a Brook UFB or PS360+, this allows you to avoid soldering: http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/home/1667-kaimana-mini-breakout.html?search_query=kaimana&results=43

    As for the buttons, you can get away with using either snap in clears or screw in clears. This site has some links to help you wire it up: http://support.paradisearcadeshop.com/support/home

    Thanks a bunch!
  • KillerandUndertakerKillerandUndertaker Joined: Posts: 85
    Are the Dragon Joystick Bat Tops still available for perches anywhere?

    I think that's the top that is pictured here.
    uqudusy4.jpg
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 120
    What is the purpose of the Neutrik RJ45 adapters? For what reason would you want an ethernet interface on your arcade stick?
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,587
    blankaex wrote: »
    What is the purpose of the Neutrik RJ45 adapters? For what reason would you want an ethernet interface on your arcade stick?

    Legacy consoles
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 22,836
    edited September 2016
    blankaex wrote: »
    What is the purpose of the Neutrik RJ45 adapters? For what reason would you want an ethernet interface on your arcade stick?

    What actually quite common in Arcade sticks, as BolSadguy said it's for Legacy consoles. PCBs like the PS360+ or the MC Cthulhu supports alot of Retro consoles, and they can support them all though a single connector.

    Older consoles, those who don't use USB often as as many as 8 Wires in it's cables (with the exception of the Neo Geo and some Super Guns which has 15 wires/pins).
    The RJ45 is a common, easy to find connector that have enough pins to support all 8 of those wires. RJ45 is relatively cheap and with the right tools and know how easy to install a RJ45 Jack to a existing PS2 or SNES controller cable. Some people use a DIN-8 or DB-9 Connectors instead of RJ45.
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • BubbledotjpgBubbledotjpg Joined: Posts: 243
    edited September 2016
    What's the best way to get 360 comparability on a PS3 madcatz TE? Would the easiest option be to buy a PS360+ or are there any other routes you guys recommend?
  • sasquachsasquach MvC2 making a comeback 2017? Joined: Posts: 368
    What's the best way to get 360 comparability on a PS3 madcatz TE? Would the easiest option be to buy a PS360+ or are there any other routes you guys recommend?

    PS360+ works, but the Brook UFB would probably be the best option imo.
    "I'm just nice" -Harry Potter
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