Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

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  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,013
    Arcadeforge in Germany makes plexi panels and whole stick kits out of the stuff.
  • UthredUthred Joined: Posts: 18
    Sorry should have been clearer, its specifically the artwork printing and cutting I'm interested in. Though its good to know theres a (slightly) more local option for plexi.
  • StrtFghtrMstrStrtFghtrMstr SRnk1VaBeachAlphaTeam Joined: Posts: 518 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    Dubon wrote: »
    Another VLX question: i recently got an original 360 VLX, witch has a bit of play on the top right of the hatch/panel. My VLX kuro doesnt have this, but after reading through the thread about the first gen VLX it seems it was a common issue at the time, so i can only assume Hori fixed it for their later revisions.
    Basically when you press the top right of the panel youll push it down 1-2 mm. I was wondering if anyone ever figured out a fix for this issue that doesnt involve sticking a folded piece of paper under it?

    I checked both of mine. The one with the 3 locking bolts doesn't flex at all. The one I'm always tinkering with has the flex because I don't have any screws in.

    Are your three locking screws torqued all the way down?
    Just a veteran player enjoying competitive SFV & the CPT
    -Kaillera veteran (GodWeapon Anti3d)
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    -Sticks & Setups currently owned
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  • trillmahertrillmaher Joined: Posts: 50
    I'm considering purchasing a USB hub for my ps4 (original, not pro/slim) but I'm curious if there's any additional latency or if it's even noticeable. Anyone here try or have one, any recommendations?
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 22,471
    trillmaher wrote: »
    I'm considering purchasing a USB hub for my ps4 (original, not pro/slim) but I'm curious if there's any additional latency or if it's even noticeable. Anyone here try or have one, any recommendations?

    Nothing you will notice.

    My recommendations, get a powered USB Hub. Something with it's own AC adapter/wall wart.
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 108
    Darksakul wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    What are these (actually) called and where can I buy them other than makestick? Also looking for a 6-pin header ribbon that I think the Hori optical joystick uses.
    http://istmall.godohosting.com/makestick.com/Usb_Connect_the_cable(3m)_01(detail).png
    It's still called a USB cable. And they come with a whole host of carious attachments, you if what that exact cable you need a part number.

    One issue is making sure that board connector has the right pin out. Not everyone uses the same pin arrangement

    It be easiler to buy a regular USB cable and splice in your own connector than trying to find that perfect match.

    All the boards that I use it with have the corresponding pinout which is why I'm after the same cable. I suppose buying a bunch of headers and a crimper is a solution.
    jopamo wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    What are these (actually) called and where can I buy them other than makestick?
    The board-side connector of that cable just looks like a JST XH 5-pin connector. I believe that Arcadeshock has cables (I think designated "for Qanba") with this connector (in two cable diameters).

    Thanks for the links and info, very helpful. The USB cable designated "for Qanba" should be correct because the cable from a Q4 works in all of my use cases. The ones from ArcadeShock are awfully expensive, though...
    jopamo wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    Also looking for a 6-pin header ribbon that I think the Hori optical joystick uses.
    I believe that both Sanwa and Hori joystick connectors have the same pitch. The Sanwa JLF-H cable uses a JST NH 5-pin connector. You need a 6-pin variant of that. What it terminates to on the board (without a picture) is a guess. Could be JST XH, or the smaller pitch JST PH...

    I'm actually not connecting it to a joystick, just to the board. I wanted to get a cable with the right header to avoid soldering to the pinouts on the board (because I'm only going to use two of the pins anyway). This is the connector in question.

    A1zKDst.jpg
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,013
    edited July 27
    That's (the one with no connection) definitely a JST PH 6-pin header.
    ph.gif

    That same pin count header for the XH looks quite different.
    xh.gif

    Just note that JST PH pin pitch is 2.00mm. As such you'll need the right crimp tool (and pins) for the job. I use an Engineer PA-09. it's a great tool (as is the rest of Engineer's stuff).
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 108
    Awesome, thanks for confirmation. I'll take your word for it and see if I can pick up a couple.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 22,471
    blankaex wrote: »
    All the boards that I use it with have the corresponding pinout which is why I'm after the same cable. I suppose buying a bunch of headers and a crimper is a solution.
    I am speaking from experience, I found plenty of boards that do not have the same pinout despite using the same header/connector.

    I never rely on assumptions that something is supposed to be industry standard. I Found USB cables that use all the wrong color wiring , Purple, Blue, Brown and Yellow.
    I found USB cables that swap what the green and white wires are used for. Never trust something to be correct, verify for yourself.
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • DubonDubon Joined: Posts: 472
    Dubon wrote: »
    Another VLX question: i recently got an original 360 VLX, witch has a bit of play on the top right of the hatch/panel. My VLX kuro doesnt have this, but after reading through the thread about the first gen VLX it seems it was a common issue at the time, so i can only assume Hori fixed it for their later revisions.
    Basically when you press the top right of the panel youll push it down 1-2 mm. I was wondering if anyone ever figured out a fix for this issue that doesnt involve sticking a folded piece of paper under it?

    I checked both of mine. The one with the 3 locking bolts doesn't flex at all. The one I'm always tinkering with has the flex because I don't have any screws in.

    Are your three locking screws torqued all the way down?

    Thanks, i tightened the screws and it seems to have improved. Its not completely gone though, so i have to restrain myself from trying to bend the frame the panel sits on.

  • SnubnozeSnubnoze Joined: Posts: 16
    edited July 27
    While we are on the subject of USB to board connections, I'm looking to install a pass through on my stock HRAP3, and found a cable that looks like it should connect to the board:

    https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

    Then I got a short USB A to USB B to connect to the Neutrik.

    Anyone have experience with this cable? I'll give it a shot regardless.

    Thanks in advance, I've learned a lot reading through these threads. You guys rock!
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,013
    edited July 27
    Glad you got a secondary cable, because without it, your USB connections wouldn't be "doin' it right" (only scissoring) :lol:
    s6xzaE25OS-6.png

    StarTech makes decent shit, and the connector sequence looks right. You'll be fine.
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 108
    edited July 28
    Anyone have experience drilling through the metal threading on this? Any advice even if you don't? Trying to get an LED to shine through.

    SANWA-LB30NCW-BATTOP-CLEAR__64626.1463853178.1280.1280.jpg?c=2
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 22,471
    edited July 28
    blankaex wrote: »
    Anyone have experience drilling through the metal threading on this? Any advice even if you don't? Trying to get an LED to shine through.

    https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server500/d90a4/products/1205/images/7978/SANWA-LB30NCW-BATTOP-CLEAR__64626.1463853178.1280.1280.jpg?c=2[

    Should be the same as Ball tops. Go slow and oil your drill bit.
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 108
    Darksakul wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    Anyone have experience drilling through the metal threading on this? Any advice even if you don't? Trying to get an LED to shine through.

    https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server500/d90a4/products/1205/images/7978/SANWA-LB30NCW-BATTOP-CLEAR__64626.1463853178.1280.1280.jpg?c=2[

    Should be the same as Ball tops. Go slow and oil your drill bit.

    Reporting back, went pretty well. Unfortunately the light doesn't disperse well inside and the handle acts like a lens lol. At least it lights up now.
  • HenteHente ಠ_ಠ Jack-ho. Joined: Posts: 246
    jopamo wrote: »
    Hente wrote: »
    What is the cheapest PS4 PCB I can pick up?
    No problems with soldering.
    THIS
    Or just padhack THIS

    Maybe I'll try to find someone with an FC4 that they don't want, thanks m8.
    I'm assuming theres no cheap ass $10 "zero delay PCB" equivalent if I want a PS4 PCB then?
    whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,422
    Hente wrote: »
    jopamo wrote: »
    Hente wrote: »
    What is the cheapest PS4 PCB I can pick up?
    No problems with soldering.
    THIS
    Or just padhack THIS

    Maybe I'll try to find someone with an FC4 that they don't want, thanks m8.
    I'm assuming theres no cheap ass $10 "zero delay PCB" equivalent if I want a PS4 PCB then?

    Only if you're willing to use the PS3 legacy drivers. Native ps4 has your cheapest option as the FC4 and the small Brook ps3/ps4 board.
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 22,471
    blankaex wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    Anyone have experience drilling through the metal threading on this? Any advice even if you don't? Trying to get an LED to shine through.

    https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server500/d90a4/products/1205/images/7978/SANWA-LB30NCW-BATTOP-CLEAR__64626.1463853178.1280.1280.jpg?c=2[

    Should be the same as Ball tops. Go slow and oil your drill bit.

    Reporting back, went pretty well. Unfortunately the light doesn't disperse well inside and the handle acts like a lens lol. At least it lights up now.

    There nothing to disperse the light, its a crystal clear Ball top.

    You can do if its a though hole LED and not a SMD LED is to lightly sand the surface of the LED just enough to make it cloudy
    that could disperse the light to spread the glow a little bit.

    But there nothing in the Bat top it self that will diffuse the light
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 108
    Darksakul wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    Anyone have experience drilling through the metal threading on this? Any advice even if you don't? Trying to get an LED to shine through.

    https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server500/d90a4/products/1205/images/7978/SANWA-LB30NCW-BATTOP-CLEAR__64626.1463853178.1280.1280.jpg?c=2[

    Should be the same as Ball tops. Go slow and oil your drill bit.

    Reporting back, went pretty well. Unfortunately the light doesn't disperse well inside and the handle acts like a lens lol. At least it lights up now.

    There nothing to disperse the light, its a crystal clear Ball top.

    You can do if its a though hole LED and not a SMD LED is to lightly sand the surface of the LED just enough to make it cloudy
    that could disperse the light to spread the glow a little bit.

    But there nothing in the Bat top it self that will diffuse the light

    Yeah I figured I'd need a frosted handle like on the Fujin lever if I wanted to achieve a good effect. I didn't expect too much from it but it's even more underwhelming than I thought. It's a through hole LED and I have a bunch of spares so I'll try roughing up the surface a bit, thanks for the suggestion.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,013
    edited July 29
    Nothin' a little high grit sandpaper couldn't fix :wink:
  • HassunHassun Joined: Posts: 89
    Are there are any good isntallation guides out there for the IL Eurojoystick line? Especially in enclosures that are not x-arcades or complete arcade cabinets. Maybe a list of arcade stick bodies that can actually house the thing?
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 22,471
    Hassun wrote: »
    Are there are any good isntallation guides out there for the IL Eurojoystick line? Especially in enclosures that are not x-arcades or complete arcade cabinets. Maybe a list of arcade stick bodies that can actually house the thing?

    Quick and dirty list of Retail commercial sticks that can properly house a IL or Happ Joystick

    X-Arcade series of sticks
    Pelican "Real Arcade". Some times referred to Pelican Real Arcade Universal
    Mortal Kombat PDP Tournament Edition and Klassic Edition
    Nuby Tech Street Fighter Anniversary Collection Stick
    Mas Systems Stick

    All except the X-arcade is discontinued.
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • DEZALBDEZALB "Yamazaki Nigari" Joined: Posts: 558
    Do you guys know of anyone that makes custom length joystick shafts? specifically for LS32/40/56. just need about 2-5 mms more for some projects im working one.

    Thanks
  • BallseamBallseam Joined: Posts: 15
    To anyone with a razer panthera:
    How is the stick holding up after extended use? I know the atrox had issues but im curois if the panthera is having similar ones.
  • MizkreantMizkreant JLF Hater Joined: Posts: 198
    What size e/c-clip does an LS-58 use? The only one I had flew across the room while changing a spring. I have some other spare sticks but the clips on those seem bigger than the one needed for the 58.
    Joysticks tried: Sanwa JLF, Seimitsu LS-55, Seimitsu LS-58, Myoungshin Fanta (medium rubber grommet), Crown 309MJ
    Favorite so far: LS-55 with bat top and octo gate
  • HassunHassun Joined: Posts: 89
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Hassun wrote: »
    Are there are any good isntallation guides out there for the IL Eurojoystick line? Especially in enclosures that are not x-arcades or complete arcade cabinets. Maybe a list of arcade stick bodies that can actually house the thing?

    Quick and dirty list of Retail commercial sticks that can properly house a IL or Happ Joystick

    X-Arcade series of sticks
    Pelican "Real Arcade". Some times referred to Pelican Real Arcade Universal
    Mortal Kombat PDP Tournament Edition and Klassic Edition
    Nuby Tech Street Fighter Anniversary Collection Stick
    Mas Systems Stick

    All except the X-arcade is discontinued.
    That's... disappointing.
  • GhostTearGhostTear Abyss Walker Joined: Posts: 2,082
    Is it possible to playing fighting games like SFV on a Macbook Pro? Will it slow down or something?
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,013
    GhostTear wrote: »
    Is it possible to playing fighting games like SFV on a Macbook Pro? Will it slow down or something?

    The two-fold answer is: "Yes, and it depends."

    Yes= Install Windows on the MBP via Bootcamp.
    Depends= depends on a few factors... whether or not you have a discrete GPU (not just Intel integrated) in your MBP, and (depending on the power of the discrete GPU) at which resolution and graphics settings will yield the game a solid 60 frames per second.

    I play SFV on my 2014 27" 5K iMac (Intel i7 4790K w/ 32GB RAM & AMD Radeon M9 295X w 4GB VRAM) @ 2560x1440 with Med to High graphics settings--issue free.

    Which model and spec level is your MacBook Pro?
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 22,471
    GhostTear wrote: »
    Is it possible to playing fighting games like SFV on a Macbook Pro? Will it slow down or something?

    It depends on your Mac Book Specs.
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • GhostTearGhostTear Abyss Walker Joined: Posts: 2,082
    edited July 31
    I got just the standard Mac Book Pro.

    Screen_Shot_2017_07_30_at_8_15_31_PM.png

  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,013
    edited July 31
    What size (13" or 15")?
    Which year?
  • GhostTearGhostTear Abyss Walker Joined: Posts: 2,082
    jopamo wrote: »
    What size (13" or 15")?
    Which year?

    15 inch and bought it in 2015. i have the specs up in my other post. im just wondering if MVCI can handle it before i purchase it.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,013
    edited July 31
    I didn't see the pic you posted earlier. In a nutshell, no it won't play MVCI well. Your GPU is significantly less powerful than the game's minimum requirement. You could try it, and mess with graphics settings and output resolution, but it wouldn't be something that I'd consider wasting time on. Do you have a PS4, Xbox One or desktop PC? Those are better options to effectively play the game.
  • GhostTearGhostTear Abyss Walker Joined: Posts: 2,082
    jopamo wrote: »
    I didn't see the pic you posted earlier. In a nutshell, no it won't play MVCI well. Your GPU is significantly less powerful than the game's minimum requirement. You could try it, and mess with graphics settings and output resolution, but it wouldn't be something that I'd consider wasting time on. Do you have a PS4, Xbox One or desktop PC? Those are better options to effectively play the game.

    Yup I have a PS4. Was just wondering if I could get it on my Mac to save time and weight. Thanks for the advice!
  • HenteHente ಠ_ಠ Jack-ho. Joined: Posts: 246
    Hente wrote: »
    jopamo wrote: »
    Hente wrote: »
    What is the cheapest PS4 PCB I can pick up?
    No problems with soldering.
    THIS
    Or just padhack THIS

    Maybe I'll try to find someone with an FC4 that they don't want, thanks m8.
    I'm assuming theres no cheap ass $10 "zero delay PCB" equivalent if I want a PS4 PCB then?

    Only if you're willing to use the PS3 legacy drivers. Native ps4 has your cheapest option as the FC4 and the small Brook ps3/ps4 board.

    I actually would be okay with that as long as I have a usable stick.
    I tried googling some some these games but I can't really get a definitive answer, is the zero delay PCB supported in the following games?

    KoF 14
    BBCF
    GG XRD Rev2
    Tekken 7
    SF5
    UNIEL[st]
    whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,560
    Reports of ZDE board compatibility with legacy support are way too varied (at least for SFV iirc) to make it something worth recommending. And IMO it's a bad habit to rely on game devs implementing legacy support into future titles anyway.

    My $0.02 is either padhack a PS4 fighting commander or get a Brook board. They're the same price (39.99); you just need to decide between quantity of features or using a licensed PCB. You might need to spend a bit more on a breakout PCB for the brook (about $10 or so) if you're not confident enough to solder directly to that tiny PCB.
  • HFXHFX forgotten abel Joined: Posts: 4,742
    my te2+ is barely a year old and its not under heavy use, but now I cant use it for PS4 due to me unable to "unlock" it

    for now i can still use it on PC, but I'd like to know what are my options to fix this..
    Malaysia / Kuching FGC | Twitter @ abelity_ | Facebook @ facebook.com/showmeyourabelity | Youtube @ youtube.com/c/ShowMeYourAbelity
  • DubonDubon Joined: Posts: 472
    edited July 31
    You mean its not detecting the lock switch beeing switched on/off? Unfortunately the te2+ has severe pcb issues, witch usually involve buttons or switches beeing stuck in the on position. Iirc it can be fixed by removing a diode specific for the malfunctioning switch. I dont have a te2+ so i couldnt tell you witch diode to remove. I think Vicko also posted an alternative way of fixing this. Search the forum for te2+ pcb issues and you should get plenty of results.

  • HFXHFX forgotten abel Joined: Posts: 4,742
    Dubon wrote: »
    You mean its not detecting the lock switch beeing switched on/off? Unfortunately the te2+ has severe pcb issues, witch usually involve buttons or switches beeing stuck in the on position. Iirc it can be fixed by removing a diode specific for the malfunctioning switch. I dont have a te2+ so i couldnt tell you witch diode to remove. I think Vicko also posted an alternative way of fixing this. Search the forum for te2+ pcb issues and you should get plenty of results.

    Yeah, when I connect the stick to PS4, by default it will start in the locked position, when I pressed unlock, it didnt do anything, PS button doesnt work as well and I assume its related to the lock/unlock thing. I will try searching the forum, thanks
    Malaysia / Kuching FGC | Twitter @ abelity_ | Facebook @ facebook.com/showmeyourabelity | Youtube @ youtube.com/c/ShowMeYourAbelity
  • sunbreach87sunbreach87 Joined: Posts: 17
    edited August 1
    Im trying to mod my ps3 te stick with the zero delay kit.


    so, the te stick has a cable compartment with a little hole for the cable to go through. What would be the best way in taking out that stock cable and putting in the aftermarket one?

    a) widen the compartment usb-hole?

    b) splice?

    c)????

    I cant splice so, and I dont have a drumel or drill. So im thinking file around the whole to make it large enough for the usb connector to pop thru? open to ideas. Im gonna need to shove the zero delay cable thru somehow after anyway.
    Post edited by sunbreach87 on
  • GeovskiGeovski MAKU Joined: Posts: 246
    Hi havent been on the forums for years! But Im at a loss and was wondering if maybe someone can point me in the right direction. Recently one of my friend purchased a hori stick for the PS4. Hori Real Arcade Pro V Kai. Due to some salt he ended up breaking the case itself and pretty much beyond repair(Casing was in pieces). I asked him if I can have it and he gave it to me. So now with that being said, I was wondering if anyone does custom wooden stick enclosures. Pretty much I have the PS4 PCB and would like to transfer to a custom wood enclosure. I just mainly need the enclosure. Buttons and stick can come later. So if you can please help?
    At Work:
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  • DubonDubon Joined: Posts: 472
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,422
    Im trying to mod my ps3 te stick with the zero delay kit.


    so, the te stick has a cable compartment with a little hole for the cable to go through. What would be the best way in taking out that stock cable and putting in the aftermarket one?

    a) widen the compartment usb-hole?

    b) splice?

    c)????

    I cant splice so, and I dont have a drumel or drill. So im thinking file around the whole to make it large enough for the usb connector to pop thru? open to ideas. Im gonna need to shove the zero delay cable thru somehow after anyway.

    Another option would be to carefully remove the wires from the JST harness, thread them through the hole, then put them back in in the same order (critically important). They could be a bit loose afterwards if you do this though. Soldering them to the board after threading through is also an option if that causes problems.
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • Boss_SavageBoss_Savage Joined: Posts: 45
    edited August 2
    I'm going to be changing out the PCB bored inside my HitBox to the brook UFB. I'm pretty confident that I can install it myself with no issues. My only problem is I can't figure out how to safely secure the USB cable.

    I initially thought about drilling a hole into the case and installing a Neutrik NAUSB-W-B A/B USB Feed-Through. But I really don't feel like going through all that trouble if I can easily avoid it.

    If leave the cable unsecured inside the HitBox, then I'm afraid of possibly pulling on it and breaking the UFB. Does anyone have any tips on how to secure the cable so I don't have to worry about it putting any strain on the UFB once it's installed?
  • aliquisaliquis Joined: Posts: 11
    Hello, i have a rather basic question but still, i am building my first fightstick and i am still at a early phase of considering the layout (of the option buttons). I plan to use the stick mostly for pc and ps4 fighting games. So a start, select and a home button seem like a obvious choice. Do you think these three are enough tho ?
    I prefer a minimalistic approach, but i am not sure if i should maybe shouldn't also include a R3, L3 or maybe a touchpad click button as i don't think they are necessary?

    Would appreciate any thoughts on that.
  • DubonDubon Joined: Posts: 472
    R3 and l3 are used for position reset in sfv in trial and training mode on pc, touchpadclick is used for both on ps4. You can still reset your position through the in game menu if you dont have these buttons though. No idea about other games.
  • unaigalderunaigalder Joined: Posts: 78
    jopamo wrote: »
    GhostTear wrote: »
    Is it possible to playing fighting games like SFV on a Macbook Pro? Will it slow down or something?

    The two-fold answer is: "Yes, and it depends."

    Yes= Install Windows on the MBP via Bootcamp.
    Depends= depends on a few factors... whether or not you have a discrete GPU (not just Intel integrated) in your MBP, and (depending on the power of the discrete GPU) at which resolution and graphics settings will yield the game a solid 60 frames per second.

    I play SFV on my 2014 27" 5K iMac (Intel i7 4790K w/ 32GB RAM & AMD Radeon M9 295X w 4GB VRAM) @ 2560x1440 with Med to High graphics settings--issue free.

    Which model and spec level is your MacBook Pro?

    In imac is posible a play a lot of mame with this computer and other with Paralells
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,013
    Via Parallels no. Via Bootcamp yes.
  • mdsfxmdsfx Joined: Posts: 1,968
    edited August 3
    Razer Panthera doesn't work on Killer Instinct (PC)?? Please tell me there's a workaround...

    Edit: XOutput worked
    Post edited by mdsfx on
    OBEY THE JAM
  • PAULINKPAULINK Joined: Posts: 21
    What are some ways to keep an agetec dreamcast stick in good shape? Recently got a hold of two, one in great condition and the other where the buttons are sticking to the sides of the plunger.

    Ideally i'd switch out the buttons and stick but I've researched and it's out of my skillset (and tools) so I just want to find a way to make due with what I have right now.
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