Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

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  • SolkiaSolkia science Joined: Posts: 13
    So I want to put a 1/16th inch sheet of aluminum as the panel in my arcade stick but the only local supplier deals in 3003 aluminum and the one i found that sells 5052 and 6061 is in kentucky and charges an absurd amount in shipping fees

    is 3003 strong enough? there's be a weak plexiglass of the same width on top of it
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,361
    edited October 2016
    Solkia wrote: »
    So I want to put a 1/16th inch sheet of aluminum as the panel in my arcade stick but the only local supplier deals in 3003 aluminum and the one i found that sells 5052 and 6061 is in kentucky and charges an absurd amount in shipping fees

    is 3003 strong enough? there's be a weak plexiglass of the same width on top of it

    There so many grades of steel and aluminum, its near impossible to know them all without being in a material science field (like metallurgy) or become some sort of tradesperson (such as a black smith or machinist).

    5052 alloy aluminum bends and shapes too easily and is not recommended for arcade panels. So I would pass on the 5052 alloy anyways.
    6061 is also pretty weak material, and unless you have some structural support or using a fairly thick sheet I pass on the 6061 as well.

    Source - http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/decoration.html

    3003 alloy aluminum is often used for gutters, downspouts, roofing, and siding. Those objects are easily bendable without tools.
    Question is 1/16 thick sheet of 3003 aluminum would be strong enough. I think 3003 isn't strong enough.

    2024 or 7075 for aluminum would be a good choice.

    For Steel consider 4130 or A653. You need to coat these to prevent rust afterwards.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • SolkiaSolkia science Joined: Posts: 13
    nevermind I found a site with good shipping options and 2024-t3 aluminum I'm gonna go with that
  • PerkolatorPerkolator sernic berm Joined: Posts: 140
    Seimitsu question here. LS-40 is absolutely my fav lever now, and i can't go back to sanwa. With that said...i've got one of my 40s in a wood DIY casing and its sitting juuuuust a little too far down in the box. no way to get it up any higher from the mounting. is there any way to get a longer shaft or is there any other stick that i can swap into the 40 and make it sit at the normal height?
  • nhan199xnhan199x Joined: Posts: 8
    edited October 2016
    I'm a keyboard player and i wanna build a hitbox. Any one help me,what the ps4 pcb allow SOCD?
  • NCK_FeroceNCK_Feroce In Makoto I Trust Joined: Posts: 3,082
    Seimitsu question here. LS-40 is absolutely my fav lever now, and i can't go back to sanwa. With that said...i've got one of my 40s in a wood DIY casing and its sitting juuuuust a little too far down in the box. no way to get it up any higher from the mounting. is there any way to get a longer shaft or is there any other stick that i can swap into the 40 and make it sit at the normal height?

    You have the flat plate or the SS one? Since your stick is a DIY probably the first,if not just use the flat. I checked possible shaft extenders,but I don't know if the one for the LS-32 is compatible with the LS-40, I'm not at home to check if they use the same shaft.
  • DaZZleCubeDaZZleCube Joined: Posts: 7
    Randomly browsing through chinese crap, I stumbled upon this
    https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Inclined-Plane-Arcade-Joysticks-Cases-with-2-Buttons/1020342_32746990641.html

    What do you think?
  • TenshoTensho Joined: Posts: 2,866
    Would pay a bit more and get a Tek-case instead.
  • DaZZleCubeDaZZleCube Joined: Posts: 7
    Tensho wrote: »
    Would pay a bit more and get a Tek-case instead.

    The thing is, I don't live in the US and the shipping costs me more than the case itself.
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    Anyone know if the square buttons used for Sound Voltex controllers can be disassembled? My friend was asking about putting button artwork in the plungers of her controller
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,361
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    Anyone know if the square buttons used for Sound Voltex controllers can be disassembled? My friend was asking about putting button artwork in the plungers of her controller

    I think so, if not there exist Sanwa versions of those buttons.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • sasquachsasquach MvC2 making a comeback 2017? Joined: Posts: 368
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    Anyone know if the square buttons used for Sound Voltex controllers can be disassembled? My friend was asking about putting button artwork in the plungers of her controller

    SVSE5 knockoff ones? I have taken them apart before. If I remember correctly you can, but I wish I could look further into it since this was for a friend.
    "I'm just nice" -Harry Potter
  • PerkolatorPerkolator sernic berm Joined: Posts: 140
    NCK_Feroce wrote: »
    You have the flat plate or the SS one? Since your stick is a DIY probably the first,if not just use the flat. I checked possible shaft extenders,but I don't know if the one for the LS-32 is compatible with the LS-40, I'm not at home to check if they use the same shaft.

    i've got the flat plate. its just sadly a little too short to use comfortably. i've just found that Paradise Arcade has a hollow shaft that 2cm longer specifically for wood panels. They look to be about the same but it's meant for the LS-32. if i can't find out for sure i might just take a chance on it.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,361
    The LS-32 and the LS-40 uses diffrent shafts.

    You are better off getting the S-plate than trying to use a LS-32 shaft.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • PerkolatorPerkolator sernic berm Joined: Posts: 140
    @Darksakul sadly no room for the S plate to fit. the flat plate is sitting flush with the wood panel and its just a bit too short for comfort.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,361
    @Darksakul sadly no room for the S plate to fit. the flat plate is sitting flush with the wood panel and its just a bit too short for comfort.

    If its a wooden panel, depending how thick it is and what kind of wood you are using you could route out some wood to make the stick sit higher
    That of course is assuming you are mounting the joystick from underneath.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • PerkolatorPerkolator sernic berm Joined: Posts: 140
    edited October 2016
    @Darksakul I thought of that but the panel is pretty thin =/ decided to compromise and used an LS-56 I had laying around that had a longer shaft which works decently enough.

    another separate question: does anyone know where I could get a fancy 3D sticker, replacement button or even 3D printer design to replace this button? It's the guide button for the OG red Vewlix. It came off a while back and I'd like to get the xbox logo back on there in some fashion, preferably classier than the original sticker if possible.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,361
    @Darksakul I thought of that but the panel is pretty thin =/ decided to compromise and used an LS-56 I had laying around that had a longer shaft which works decently enough.

    another separate question: does anyone know where I could get a fancy 3D sticker, replacement button or even 3D printer design to replace this button? It's the guide button for the OG red Vewlix. It came off a while back and I'd like to get the xbox logo back on there in some fashion, preferably classier than the original sticker if possible.

    Salvage one from another controller?
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • setrosetro Joined: Posts: 3
    Hi guys

    I'm returning to the world of fighting games now after some years away.
    I just got my fightstick out of storage and I've been trying to make it work on my PC with no success.

    I have an UNMODED Super Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition S - Playstation 3

    Is there anyway I could make it work on nowadays PCs?
    I'm using Windows 10 with the Asus Maximus VIII Gene motherboard

    Thank you in advance!
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    IIRC (don't quote me on this) there are some driver issues preventing older PS3 sticks from working with newer chipsets, or something to that effect. My suggestion is to just give it a new brain. There are lots of easy-to-install aftermarket PCBs. If you want to make the investment, I recommend the Brook Universal board; just check to make sure it's compatible with your chipset.
  • setrosetro Joined: Posts: 3
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    IIRC (don't quote me on this) there are some driver issues preventing older PS3 sticks from working with newer chipsets, or something to that effect. My suggestion is to just give it a new brain. There are lots of easy-to-install aftermarket PCBs. If you want to make the investment, I recommend the Brook Universal board; just check to make sure it's compatible with your chipset.

    Thank you for your answer!

    I decided to install a PCB on my stick. Is the Brook Universal you recommended the best one around? Is THIS the one?

    I've seen ppl recommending the Cthulhu for PS3/PC one but I can't find it for sale anywhere, maybe it's too outdated?

    I'll be playing mainly on the PC

    Thx again!
  • TenshoTensho Joined: Posts: 2,866
    Brook Universal board will be expensive if you're only using it for PC as it's made for multi console, Brook Fightboard is cheaper and it's for PC/PS3/P4, boards like Cthulhu are a bit cheaper and for PC/PS3, and also have multi console(not next gen) then there's even cheaper ones like Zero Delay PC/PS3 etc
  • deadxobbitdeadxobbit Joined: Posts: 51
    edited October 2016
    @setro
    I heard about troubles with using first gen MadCatz TEs on PC, but iirc it was solved in next generations (starting with Round 2 sticks?). What that means is your TES should work on PC, since my SCV stick works fine and it is basically a TES. Did you check if your your PC recognizes your stick in Devices and Printers? And I will go ahead of myself and say that you will need a Xinput wrapper (something like x360ce or Dantarion's SF5Dinput for instance) to make it work with SFV, since the game doesn't have a Dinput support yet.
    Post edited by deadxobbit on
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,450
    Tensho wrote: »
    Brook Universal board will be expensive if you're only using it for PC as it's made for multi console, Brook Fightboard is cheaper and it's for PC/PS3/P4, boards like Cthulhu are a bit cheaper and for PC/PS3, and also have multi console(not next gen) then there's even cheaper ones like Zero Delay PC/PS3 etc

    ^ This. The UFB is super expensive if you don't need all the support it has. Do note that a direct input only device (such as the cthulhu or Zero Delay) will need a wrapper program (x360ce, joy2key, xoutput, etc) for games that require Xinput.
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,361
    I would not call the UFB super expensive, but he would be paying for features he does not need.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    edited October 2016
    setro wrote: »
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    IIRC (don't quote me on this) there are some driver issues preventing older PS3 sticks from working with newer chipsets, or something to that effect. My suggestion is to just give it a new brain. There are lots of easy-to-install aftermarket PCBs. If you want to make the investment, I recommend the Brook Universal board; just check to make sure it's compatible with your chipset.

    Thank you for your answer!

    I decided to install a PCB on my stick. Is the Brook Universal you recommended the best one around? Is THIS the one?

    I've seen ppl recommending the Cthulhu for PS3/PC one but I can't find it for sale anywhere, maybe it's too outdated?

    I'll be playing mainly on the PC

    Thx again!

    I assumed you'd be playing on consoles as well, but if you're mainly on PC and don't want to worry about using Xinput wrapping software, the Brook PS3/PS4 board is a better option for you since it uses Xinput but is cheaper than the UFB
  • EmSixTeenEmSixTeen Joined: Posts: 34
    Anyone here put the clear GamerFinger G2s in a Venom and managed to get them in far enough(?) that the plunger won't pop out when double tapping?
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    edited October 2016
    That's a common problem with G2's and even G3's. I just hot glued my plungers in through the holes on the bottom, but if you want to be less commital and have an easier time removing them later, sticky tack will probably work. Or just get OBS-MX from PAS
  • douglavrasdouglavras Blue_Note Joined: Posts: 54
    Hi all. Is the Brook PS4/PS3 PCB working after the PS4 4.05 update?
    Actually, the most recent update for the PCB is from september, before 4.0 update, I think,
    http://www.brookaccessory.com/download/PS4/
  • TenshoTensho Joined: Posts: 2,866
    4.x update didn't mess with the 8 minute timeout as far as I remember.
  • JayduckyJayducky Stupid Questions---> Joined: Posts: 737
    WHAT. THE. HELL! I haven't used my 2 VLX's in a while. I pull them out and decide to fire up the dreamcast for some powerstone action. Hell yeah! To my dismay, my cardinal directions are all messed up. I figure whatever, I'll pull out my second VLX and use it instead. Turns out, It has the exact same problem. I'm thinking it must be my dreamcast right? well, same thing with both VLX's on PS3. Then, same on PS4. VLX#1 has a brook UFB and PS360+ while VLX#2 has a pad hacked PS4 pcb and padhacked Xboxone pcb and a PS360+. The thing they both have in common is The PS360+ pcb. Did something happen recently with the PS360+ that requires an update? I only have a mac and updating the PS360+ through mac seems complicated. Anyone else having these same issues?
    Step 1: Put a hole in the box.
  • GummoGummo Can We Mod It? Yes, We Can! Joined: Posts: 5,514
    Might be able to just rotate the joystick pcb.
    Website: http://www.gummods.com
    Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/gummowned
    Twitter: @Gummowned
    Will be providing my modding services at EVO @ the Madcatz booth!
  • BakaHazeBakaHaze Joined: Posts: 21
    edited October 2016
    Hey all, not sure if this is a good spot.

    Have a friend in Japan atm and saw the release of the new silent hayabusa.
    Was wondering if anyone knew any good stockists of arcade parts around Tokyo?

    Cheers.
  • BubbledotjpgBubbledotjpg Joined: Posts: 252
    I've never owned any sanwa screw in buttons but I'm wondering if the outside part is the only difference. Would I be able to take my normal 30mm sanwa plunger and replace the sanwa screw in plunger? Only asking since I have a bunch of buttons with custom art on them.
  • EmSixTeenEmSixTeen Joined: Posts: 34
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    That's a common problem with G2's and even G3's. I just hot glued my plungers in through the holes on the bottom, but if you want to be less commital and have an easier time removing them later, sticky tack will probably work. Or just get OBS-MX from PAS

    I like the buttons, I just don't want them popping off any more. What way do you mean you glued/blu-tac'd them?
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    EmSixTeen wrote: »
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    That's a common problem with G2's and even G3's. I just hot glued my plungers in through the holes on the bottom, but if you want to be less commital and have an easier time removing them later, sticky tack will probably work. Or just get OBS-MX from PAS

    I like the buttons, I just don't want them popping off any more. What way do you mean you glued/blu-tac'd them?

    On the underside of the button there should be a hole where you poke your screwdriver through in order to pop the microswitch out. Put hot glue there to prevent the switch from popping out. If you mean just the plunger is coming off and not the switch, just superglue the plunger to the switch
  • anzharanzhar five times Joined: Posts: 994
    I've never owned any sanwa screw in buttons but I'm wondering if the outside part is the only difference. Would I be able to take my normal 30mm sanwa plunger and replace the sanwa screw in plunger? Only asking since I have a bunch of buttons with custom art on them.

    i asked this a while back and was told yes they are by @gahrling
  • gahrlinggahrling Better safe than Hori.. Joined: Posts: 3,968
    I've never owned any sanwa screw in buttons but I'm wondering if the outside part is the only difference. Would I be able to take my normal 30mm sanwa plunger and replace the sanwa screw in plunger? Only asking since I have a bunch of buttons with custom art on them.


    Sanwa microswitches in OBSF, OBSN, and OBSC are the same even if the button shells are 30mm or 24mm.

    Seimitsu are a bit more fucked though as their snap-ins and screw-ins have different microswitches. No one knows why, it's just Seimitsu logic.
  • cat_touchercat_toucher Joined: Posts: 1
    Before I start, I would like to say that I'm a total noob at making an arcade/fightstick in fact, this is my first time trying to mess with this kinda stuff.

    Hey guys! I'm planning on making some sort of bartop arcade cab that uses a Raspberry PI and has 2 full arcade/fight stick (but full I mean joystick, 6 main button, 1 or 2 coin, 1 or 2 start, etc). I was looking at some PCBs and saw the I-PAC-2 which supports enough inputs and is made for 2 players. When looking at the board I noticed that there's only 2 common ground ports. I had the idea to daisy chain the ground from all the buttons and the joystick from 1 stick to 1 of the ground ports, and have the second ground port meant for all the buttons and the joystick from the 2nd stick.

    While this idea sounds good in my head, I'm not 100% sure if I can daisy chain the ground from the buttons to a joystick. So I also had the of daisy chaining all the buttons from both sticks to 1 ground port and then for the ground of the joysticks, I would twist the connectors together and then put that into the 2nd ground port.

    Anyways, my question is whether it would be better for me to make each stick (joystick + buttons) have their own ground port

    or

    would it be better to have 1 ground port dedicated to the buttons and the other dedicated to the joysticks (I would most likely twist the ends of the ground together).

    Thanks!
    https://focusattack.com/ultimarc-i-pac-2-2-player-usb-pushbutton-and-joystick-interface-pcb/
  • BubbledotjpgBubbledotjpg Joined: Posts: 252
    Awesome thanks guys.
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