Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

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  • ClandestineClandestine Patiently waiting for CvS3 Joined: Posts: 525
    Does anyone know if i will be able to use a 4lb jlf spring inside a seimitsu stick (the ls-56)? Just wondering if anyone has tried this before
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,452
    Does anyone know if i will be able to use a 4lb jlf spring inside a seimitsu stick (the ls-56)? Just wondering if anyone has tried this before

    The spring has very different dimensions, so no. You could try taking your 56 spring to a hardware store to see if they have one with more tension that would fit.
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • atiradoratirador It means "shooter" and I know it's a terrible username Joined: Posts: 1,619
    I have an OG MadCatz TE Stick for PS3 and I want to connect it to my PS4 but newer games like MVCI don't have legacy support.

    What's the best converter for that?

    Thanks!
  • ClandestineClandestine Patiently waiting for CvS3 Joined: Posts: 525
    edited September 22
    atirador wrote: »
    I have an OG MadCatz TE Stick for PS3 and I want to connect it to my PS4 but newer games like MVCI don't have legacy support.

    What's the best converter for that?

    Thanks!

    The Brook converter.
    http://www.brookaccessory.com/detail/17778036/

    Does anyone know if i will be able to use a 4lb jlf spring inside a seimitsu stick (the ls-56)? Just wondering if anyone has tried this before

    The spring has very different dimensions, so no. You could try taking your 56 spring to a hardware store to see if they have one with more tension that would fit.

    Good idea, thanks.
  • DangerHouseDangerHouse Who? Joined: Posts: 3
    I'm looking to buy a Brook Fighting Board for my Qanba Q2 (The original model with the straight buttons, not the Glow or Pro version). I am concerned about this because the Select/Mode (Analog or D-Pad)/Turbo/Home buttons are not a simple pushbutton with quick disconnect contacts like the face buttons and start button. They seem to be seated on a board of their own, separate from the board that the face buttons and joystick are connected to. The board in question is highlighted in the picture.

    If I buy this new PCB, will I lose functionality of those buttons? It might be a deal breaker if that's the case.

    Further, there is an LED that indicates which number the controller is, Turbo mode, and whether or not the d-pad/analog button has been pushed. Assuming I can even use those buttons, will that LED also be disabled?

    kAG_OmM1SpeCBNOv71_A_Q.png
  • GaijinblazeGaijinblaze fingerlicans Joined: Posts: 2,524 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    hi guys. another question.

    i planned to reuse my old sanwa buttons from ~2004. the idea was to pop them out, put them in a retail stick and attach the latter's QDs to them. so i open up my old stick and... i had soldered the wires to the tabs of these buttons. at that time, i had no experience with soldering and just winged it, and i do not have a soldering iron anymore, nor do i want to buy one just to undo this mess. just wondering what my options here are. all i want is to get enough solder off to attach quick disconnects without damaging anything.

    i placed an order from focusattack last week but had no idea that i had soldered to the tabs. if i had known, i wouldve included 6 SW-68 switches in the order and i wouldnt be in this debacle. but the shipping to canada is too prohibitive to pay shipping again just for $7.50 USD worth of switches so i would rather attempt a workaround instead.

    picture for comedy's sake: https://imgur.com/a/Lh3lO

    thanks.
    This message will self-destruct.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,381
    hi guys. another question.

    i planned to reuse my old sanwa buttons from ~2004. the idea was to pop them out, put them in a retail stick and attach the latter's QDs to them. so i open up my old stick and... i had soldered the wires to the tabs of these buttons. at that time, i had no experience with soldering and just winged it, and i do not have a soldering iron anymore, nor do i want to buy one just to undo this mess. just wondering what my options here are. all i want is to get enough solder off to attach quick disconnects without damaging anything.

    i placed an order from focusattack last week but had no idea that i had soldered to the tabs. if i had known, i wouldve included 6 SW-68 switches in the order and i wouldnt be in this debacle. but the shipping to canada is too prohibitive to pay shipping again just for $7.50 USD worth of switches so i would rather attempt a workaround instead.

    picture for comedy's sake: https://imgur.com/a/Lh3lO

    thanks.

    Buy a soldering iron and a desolder wick, both should be locally available to you.
    Should be cheaper than the Shipping.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • GaijinblazeGaijinblaze fingerlicans Joined: Posts: 2,524 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    cheapest one i can find locally is $18 CAD (plus 13% tax). factor in an additional item to supplement the desoldering process and the six switches from focusattack would be miraculously cheaper even with the hefty shipping fee. but i still don't want to do that out of principle because i would really feel like shit for botching my first order and it would take another 8+ business days to arrive.

    some ideas that i've come across are:

    -using a knife to scrape off the solder and then sanding with sandpaper, but i'm not sure how that would deal with the wire
    -using a throwaway screwdriver as a makeshift soldering iron. i guess the idea is to get it just hot enough to melt the solder, get the wires out and wipe off as much solder as possible with a sponge or something

    not aware of any other options yet.
    This message will self-destruct.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,183
    edited September 24
    I'm really curious: Why do you need to use the existing set of buttons again? ...when a new set would be less money than a soldering/desoldering kit...and less headache (for you) than the alternatives you've presented.

    Also...where in Canada are you located? Why do you need to order from the US?
    Post edited by jopamo on
  • GaijinblazeGaijinblaze fingerlicans Joined: Posts: 2,524 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    mainly to save money and be efficient with the parts i already have. i'm not currently interested in having more than one functional arcade stick at a time, so i figured that i would salvage the old buttons to make the most of them. the plungers and housings are fine, so if i have to buy something new, i would rather buy replacement SW-68 switches instead of entirely new buttons. i'm going to have to take the buttons apart to install foam silencers anyway.

    i live in toronto but i cant find any vendors here that sell the SW-68 switches alone. and most canadian online vendors are generally overcharging on both the parts and shipping.
    This message will self-destruct.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,381
    edited September 24
    cheapest one i can find locally is $18 CAD (plus 13% tax). factor in an additional item to supplement the desoldering process and the six switches from focusattack would be miraculously cheaper even with the hefty shipping fee. but i still don't want to do that out of principle because i would really feel like shit for botching my first order and it would take another 8+ business days to arrive.

    some ideas that i've come across are:

    -using a knife to scrape off the solder and then sanding with sandpaper, but i'm not sure how that would deal with the wire
    -using a throwaway screwdriver as a makeshift soldering iron. i guess the idea is to get it just hot enough to melt the solder, get the wires out and wipe off as much solder as possible with a sponge or something

    not aware of any other options yet.

    your alternative ideas aren't very good.
    using the wrong tools can ether make it worst or be completely unsafe.

    The upside to buying new switches is, you have fresh switches than are not worn yet.
    Or you can buy the tools you need, and you have them again when the need arises.

    if you are going to be hard up on $18 maybe stick modding is not for you.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • Zx-toleZx-tole Joined: Posts: 624
    I got this shell of a Mad Catz Fightstick Pro last year off of ebay with plans of reviving it. Basically it just came with the two part body, top panel, a JLF, and the main PCB. It has no bottom panel, to turbo panel, and no cord storage door. Luckily I had some compatible screws from other projects to keep the two part body together. The bottom panel situation I might just order off art's hobbies.

    The main problem for me is the turbo panel and the storage door. I was thinking for the turbo panel hole I would fill it with some type of plastic epoxy and drywall mesh then sanding it flush and painting the case. Now for the storage door that would seem like alot of work because of how big the hole is. My main question basically is are there any other options to get rid of the turbo panel and storage door holes without actually hunting down a turbo panel and storage door? and if the epoxy route is a good route to take what's a recommended epoxy/filler to use and what's the best method to apply it to the case?
    Currently Playing-
    KOFXIV: King of Dinosaurs/Daimon/Maxima
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,381
    Zx-tole wrote: »
    I got this shell of a Mad Catz Fightstick Pro last year off of ebay with plans of reviving it. Basically it just came with the two part body, top panel, a JLF, and the main PCB. It has no bottom panel, to turbo panel, and no cord storage door. Luckily I had some compatible screws from other projects to keep the two part body together. The bottom panel situation I might just order off art's hobbies.

    The main problem for me is the turbo panel and the storage door. I was thinking for the turbo panel hole I would fill it with some type of plastic epoxy and drywall mesh then sanding it flush and painting the case. Now for the storage door that would seem like alot of work because of how big the hole is. My main question basically is are there any other options to get rid of the turbo panel and storage door holes without actually hunting down a turbo panel and storage door? and if the epoxy route is a good route to take what's a recommended epoxy/filler to use and what's the best method to apply it to the case?

    I just apply JB Weld to the contact surfaces of a similar project, since the plastic sheet and the stick body was all black ABS plastic, I applied extra to the seams on the inside.

    ef52Odg.jpg
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • UmbralUmbral Joined: Posts: 21
    Still having trouble with the Hori RAP N Hayabusa I just bought. Can't seem to get the computer to acknowledge inputs/button presses. Steam's Big picture mode recognizes a controller is plugged in but when I go to map the buttons, fails to register anything. Same with when I "calibrate" in the settings of the stick, same problem with Joy2key. Don't have a ps4 to test to see if it's the stick itself. Or another computer for that matter. just under 3 weeks to return it.
  • Explorer200Explorer200 Joined: Posts: 444
    The Vewlix C uses Dark Red Sanwas correct? Just want to be extra sure and double check here before I screw up my Vewlix C color scheme. Thanks
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,381
    The Vewlix C uses Dark Red Sanwas correct? Just want to be extra sure and double check here before I screw up my Vewlix C color scheme. Thanks
    Problem is color perception is subjective at best. What you see in photos is never what you see in person. Photos are taken to look good, not to be color accurate.

    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,183
    edited September 25
    The only true way would be to test against either a Vewlix C cab or a HRAP VLX Hayabusa stick (side panels). I've got both red and vermillion buttons, but neither of the aforementioned hotness.

    Vermillion is VERY much on the orange side of red-orange. I'd venture to say you'd be better off with red.
    Post edited by jopamo on
  • Raij1nRaij1n Joined: Posts: 1,194
    I don't know if this is the best place to ask, but I didn't see a thread so I'll post here and go fishing.

    I have a buddy that needs to be able to access programs and files on his office computer from his home computer.

    Would a remote desktop or a vpn be the way to go? And where would one start?

    Thanks for any input.
  • Flying PhoenixFlying Phoenix n00bity n00bity n00b n00b Joined: Posts: 54
    edited September 27
    So I got a new Brooks PCB. The PS4+ Fighting Bord v.2017 that just came out.

    However, when signing in my PS4 with the the PCB, it automatically switches the audio to "headphone mode". Is there a way to stop this so the output stays to my TV speakers? I mean I can just go into devices and turn headphones mode off, but I don't want to do that every single time I log into a PS4.

    Also, do I need to update the drivers? The PCB was just released two weeks ago, but it seems that the newest driver is from June.
  • ShiroZXShiroZX Joined: Posts: 51
    Yo, I was planning on buying another fightstick since the first one I bought didn't come out as expected. Just wanted to ask something. I LOVE the noir layout of the hori sticks. It just fits perfectly in my hand. And madcatz sticks only have vewlix layout (other than the scv but it comes expensive), can I change the layout of a vewlix madcatz stick (say, a TE, TES, etc) to a noir?
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,381
    ShiroZX wrote: »
    Yo, I was planning on buying another fightstick since the first one I bought didn't come out as expected. Just wanted to ask something. I LOVE the noir layout of the hori sticks. It just fits perfectly in my hand. And madcatz sticks only have vewlix layout (other than the scv but it comes expensive), can I change the layout of a vewlix madcatz stick (say, a TE, TES, etc) to a noir?

    Yes sure, you just need a replacement panel made.
    A Replacement panel can be Plexy but preferably metal, this will not include any art or a plexy overlay.

    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,183
    edited September 27
    @ShiroZX I had already suggested a HRAP Pro.N Hayabusa to you in another thread. Why not go that route?...

    Else you'll be better off just "biting the bullet" and getting a Mad Catz SCV stick. Factor in extra cost for pcb modding or a super converter for PS4 compatibility.
  • ShiroZXShiroZX Joined: Posts: 51
    @jopamo Well, I could go for the pro n, just need to save more money, np.
    But I just found a madcatz te mlg edition for xbox 360. It's at 120 rn, maybe I could convince the seller to lower the price. Though I'll keep the pro n in mind, thanks

    @Darksakul Can I get one at tek innovations or any other place? Is it easy to replace since I know it has a metal panel and maybe it's soldered or something, idk
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,381
    ShiroZX wrote: »
    @jopamo Well, I could go for the pro n, just need to save more money, np.
    But I just found a madcatz te mlg edition for xbox 360. It's at 120 rn, maybe I could convince the seller to lower the price. Though I'll keep the pro n in mind, thanks

    @Darksakul Can I get one at tek innovations or any other place? Is it easy to replace since I know it has a metal panel and maybe it's soldered or something, idk

    I don't remember now. Tek Innovations have panels but only for certain models.
    The providers I knew for metal panels are all gone so I am not sure what to tell you.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,183
    edited September 27
    Yes Art has panels for this, but they're only thin acrylic. Thin acrylic flexes...even two layers of it.
  • ShiroZXShiroZX Joined: Posts: 51
    Thank you dudes, I'll keep checking prices and stuff like that. Just to make sure
  • Atlas91Atlas91 Joined: Posts: 2
    Can I get an update on what people think of the Mayflash V2? I'm looking for an entry level stick and saw good reviews both here and on other sites, but a lot of these posts are years old. This isn't a "recommend me a stick" question I swear! I'm just looking for some more recent feedback in case of durability problems or something like that.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,381
    Atlas91 wrote: »
    Can I get an update on what people think of the Mayflash V2? I'm looking for an entry level stick and saw good reviews both here and on other sites, but a lot of these posts are years old. This isn't a "recommend me a stick" question I swear! I'm just looking for some more recent feedback in case of durability problems or something like that.
    I never have given it an outstanding review

    The MayFlash V2 is a cheap stick. And Arcade sticks are a very much you get what you paid for product.
    What the MayFlash is good for is if someone wants to gut it and put in all their own parts in.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    The case is decent (has a metal panel, cable storage, not too small), but you're better of getting the Venom. The V2, F500 and Venom all use the exact same case, but the Venom is licensed for PS4, has Xinput and the artwork is easier to replace.
  • Atlas91Atlas91 Joined: Posts: 2
    @Darksakul
    Oh I know it's not going to come close to more expensive sticks. I just want something to mess around with so I don't mind if it's a little janky. Better parts are always an option if I want to invest down the road.

    @BolSadguy
    Thanks for the suggestions. Both the F500 and the Venom seem to be about $30 more expensive (plus some crazy shipping fees on the Venom) and I don't need console compatibility, plus the v2 also has Xinput. Do you think they're worth the higher price or is the quality close enough to not really matter?
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,381
    Atlas91 wrote: »
    Thanks for the suggestions. Both the F500 and the Venom seem to be about $30 more expensive (plus some crazy shipping fees on the Venom) and I don't need console compatibility, plus the v2 also has Xinput. Do you think they're worth the higher price or is the quality close enough to not really matter?
    Yes, the £20 difference is worth it. The Xbox side of the Mayflash is not worth it.

    The Real value of these sticks are the buttons and joystick can be trashed for real parts rather easily and does not require a ton of case mod work.
    Some of the older modders here can tell you stories how hard these older sticks can be a pain to case mod to fit real arcade parts in.

    I destroyed diamond tipped grinding bits trying to widen holes on a metal panel to retro-fit Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons into button holes that otherwise be too small for those parts.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 126
    Do Seimitsu shaft covers fit on JLFs?
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    Yes, with modification

  • ethranesethranes Joined: Posts: 2
    edited September 29
    Hi, I have an old fightstick that I used on the PS3, this isn't compatable with the PS4. So I bought a Hori Mini for the PS4, took out the PCB and soldered the wiring from my old stick to it. My problem is that all of the face buttons are working, but the stick is not responsive, this is the case on the PC and on the PS4. I have checked the continuity of the wiring from the stick to the PCB and that seems fine. One thing to note is that there is a ground wire coming from my stick that I have not attached to the PCB, as the PCB only has one spot for a ground wire, which I have used to ground the face buttons. Any help and advice is appreciated. (I know my wiring is very messy)

    https://i.imgur.com/vzdZHTf.jpg
    https://imgur.com/x1cZ2v8.jpg

  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    ethranes wrote: »
    there is a ground wire coming from my stick that I have not attached to the PCB

    There's your issue. Just connect it to one of the grounds for the USB cable
  • ethranesethranes Joined: Posts: 2
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    ethranes wrote: »
    there is a ground wire coming from my stick that I have not attached to the PCB

    There's your issue. Just connect it to one of the grounds for the USB cable

    Thanks that's sorted it, everythings working on pc and in ps4 menus, marvels not recognising it though, but that's a different story. Thanks for the help!
  • BeikedGoodsBeikedGoods Joined: Posts: 15
    Hey, I was wondering if anyone knows if the resistance grommets (25A and 45A) for the new Crown SDL lever would fit in the 309MJ (also by Crown)?

    https://www.focusattack.com/st-45-high-tension-rubber-grommet-for-sdl-301-dx-lever/

    They look similar but I can't tell the dimensions from pictures alone, so I'm not sure on compatibility. I'm purchasing a 309MJ to put in my mcz fightstick pro and heard the stock 25A rubber grommet is not that strong. Decided I was going to opt for the 45A one so returning to neutral is more snippy, just unsure if it'll fit.

    Thanks :)
  • Exedore4970Exedore4970 When in doubt, I Sonic Boom! Joined: Posts: 4
    edited October 3
    EDIT: I’ve received the answer to my question in another thread... This post can be deleted.
    Post edited by Exedore4970 on
  • jey-arejey-are Intermediate Noob Joined: Posts: 99
    Hey, I was wondering if anyone knows if the resistance grommets (25A and 45A) for the new Crown SDL lever would fit in the 309MJ (also by Crown)?

    https://www.focusattack.com/st-45-high-tension-rubber-grommet-for-sdl-301-dx-lever/

    They look similar but I can't tell the dimensions from pictures alone, so I'm not sure on compatibility. I'm purchasing a 309MJ to put in my mcz fightstick pro and heard the stock 25A rubber grommet is not that strong. Decided I was going to opt for the 45A one so returning to neutral is more snippy, just unsure if it'll fit.

    Thanks :)

    Yes they will fit. But you will have to use the bushing that came with your 309 (black plastic center piece) and not the bushing that's meant for a 301 (white plastic center piece).
    -Psn ID: JxRx420
    -Instagram: jeyrizzy
    -Usually plays Tekken.
  • SnubnozeSnubnoze Joined: Posts: 48
    edited October 4
    ShiroZX wrote: »
    Yo, I was planning on buying another fightstick since the first one I bought didn't come out as expected. Just wanted to ask something. I LOVE the noir layout of the hori sticks. It just fits perfectly in my hand. And madcatz sticks only have vewlix layout (other than the scv but it comes expensive), can I change the layout of a vewlix madcatz stick (say, a TE, TES, etc) to a noir?
    Why not get a Hori?

    I had Art make me a Noir layout panel for my HRAP3, pretty easy using his custom panel builder, just had to turn the joystick mounting plate horrizontal.
    Post edited by Snubnoze on
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