Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

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  • ChocobunyChocobuny Joined: Posts: 1,101
    edited October 4
    I'm having a really weird specific issue and was wondering if anyone can help me.

    I play SFV on PC, using a PS3 stick with a Brooks converter. The last two days, I can't go through two rounds online without my character just not responding. The turbo buttons still light up, and there is no disconnected hardware sound from the PC [Edit: There is actually a faint reconnect sound when it drops] my character just stops responding to both movement and attack buttons. Minimising the game or refocusing it doesn't do anything, the only fix is to unplug and replug in my stick. However, I can't recreate this problem in training mode, it only happens online. Any ideas on what is going on?

    Edit2: Have been playing USF4 on PC with absolutely no problems both online and offline, seems specific to SFV. Not sure what that means.
    Post edited by Chocobuny on
  • StrtFghtrMstrStrtFghtrMstr SRnk1VaBeachAlphaTeam Joined: Posts: 534 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    Chocobuny wrote: »
    I'm having a really weird specific issue and was wondering if anyone can help me.

    I play SFV on PC, using a PS3 stick with a Brooks converter...

    Try playing SFV without the converter since SFV accepts both inputs now.
    Just a veteran player enjoying competitive SFV & the CPT
    -Kaillera veteran (GodWeapon Anti3d)
    -SFA3 Replay Tournament Champion (21-0)
    -Sticks & Setups currently owned
    -Namco w/HFC/SilentKuros/SilentHayabusa-Zippys
    -Namco stock
    -VLX 360 w/JLF+Silent Zippy&uSW mod/OBS-MX Reds+Silent O-Rings/Qanba/Seimetsu/PCBs360VX+HFC4, Jansen x5 19MM Turbo Panel
    -VLX 360 Stock
    -TE-S Six-Axis PCB w/ShinJN adapter
    -H2H setups: Zowie RLH2460HT, Asus VX238H-W & Monoprice 8204
  • ChocobunyChocobuny Joined: Posts: 1,101
    edited October 5
    Chocobuny wrote: »
    I'm having a really weird specific issue and was wondering if anyone can help me.

    I play SFV on PC, using a PS3 stick with a Brooks converter...

    Try playing SFV without the converter since SFV accepts both inputs now.

    Without the converter Windows 10 doesn't detect inputs from my stick. I think this is because its an old TE round 1 PS3 stick, they have issues with some USBs. However, I used to play this on Win 7 without a converter, so I'm not sure what changed.

    Edit: It detects the controller "PC USB Wired Stick 8838"
  • ayechpayechp Joined: Posts: 15
    Does anyone know of an effective way to remove a stripped screw? Need to replace my panzer's plexi and one of the screws is completely stripped and it's firmly screwed in. Is there a way that doesn't involve potentially breaking the plexi?
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,186
    Hex screw? Shove a wide rubber band in the groove, then follow with the hex driver. Turn til it loosens.

    Else, there’s always Engineer PZ-57 or PZ-58 screw pliers.

    No matter what...Please don’t drill that thing out. Take a drill to that beautiful Panzer and I’ll climb through your screen and slap you.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,392
    Chocobuny wrote: »
    Chocobuny wrote: »
    I'm having a really weird specific issue and was wondering if anyone can help me.

    I play SFV on PC, using a PS3 stick with a Brooks converter...

    Try playing SFV without the converter since SFV accepts both inputs now.

    Without the converter Windows 10 doesn't detect inputs from my stick. I think this is because its an old TE round 1 PS3 stick, they have issues with some USBs. However, I used to play this on Win 7 without a converter, so I'm not sure what changed.

    Edit: It detects the controller "PC USB Wired Stick 8838"

    if it's a older Mad Catz TE PS3 stick, there a whole thread on the topic.

    But to save time and to make a long story short, The original Mad Catz TE PS3 sticks used UHCI USB protocols, which is a Intel proprietary protocol and only works on select Motherboards and USB PCI cards.
    UHCI is not forwards compatible with later USB revisions (or if you will other USB protocols are not backwards compatible with this old USB 1.0/1.1 protocol).

    You either need to use an adapter or replace the circuit board inside. Don't bother trying to find a compatible PCI card as they are long since been discontinued
    po pimpus wrote:
    That's sad as fuck.
  • ChocobunyChocobuny Joined: Posts: 1,101
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Chocobuny wrote: »
    Chocobuny wrote: »
    I'm having a really weird specific issue and was wondering if anyone can help me.

    I play SFV on PC, using a PS3 stick with a Brooks converter...

    Try playing SFV without the converter since SFV accepts both inputs now.

    Without the converter Windows 10 doesn't detect inputs from my stick. I think this is because its an old TE round 1 PS3 stick, they have issues with some USBs. However, I used to play this on Win 7 without a converter, so I'm not sure what changed.

    Edit: It detects the controller "PC USB Wired Stick 8838"

    if it's a older Mad Catz TE PS3 stick, there a whole thread on the topic.

    But to save time and to make a long story short, The original Mad Catz TE PS3 sticks used UHCI USB protocols, which is a Intel proprietary protocol and only works on select Motherboards and USB PCI cards.
    UHCI is not forwards compatible with later USB revisions (or if you will other USB protocols are not backwards compatible with this old USB 1.0/1.1 protocol).

    You either need to use an adapter or replace the circuit board inside. Don't bother trying to find a compatible PCI card as they are long since been discontinued

    I guess my main problem now is, why on earth would my converter work fine offline, but have problems online? This whole system was fine up until two days ago.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,392
    Chocobuny wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Chocobuny wrote: »
    Chocobuny wrote: »
    I'm having a really weird specific issue and was wondering if anyone can help me.

    I play SFV on PC, using a PS3 stick with a Brooks converter...

    Try playing SFV without the converter since SFV accepts both inputs now.

    Without the converter Windows 10 doesn't detect inputs from my stick. I think this is because its an old TE round 1 PS3 stick, they have issues with some USBs. However, I used to play this on Win 7 without a converter, so I'm not sure what changed.

    Edit: It detects the controller "PC USB Wired Stick 8838"

    if it's a older Mad Catz TE PS3 stick, there a whole thread on the topic.

    But to save time and to make a long story short, The original Mad Catz TE PS3 sticks used UHCI USB protocols, which is a Intel proprietary protocol and only works on select Motherboards and USB PCI cards.
    UHCI is not forwards compatible with later USB revisions (or if you will other USB protocols are not backwards compatible with this old USB 1.0/1.1 protocol).

    You either need to use an adapter or replace the circuit board inside. Don't bother trying to find a compatible PCI card as they are long since been discontinued

    I guess my main problem now is, why on earth would my converter work fine offline, but have problems online? This whole system was fine up until two days ago.

    Do you got any other wired PS3 controllers? See if you can replicate the issue with a different controller.
    po pimpus wrote:
    That's sad as fuck.
  • DubonDubon Joined: Posts: 495
    Actually theres one more thing you could try. Install this and see if it detects it without the converter.
    http://batcmd.com/windows/10/services/usbuhci/
  • ChocobunyChocobuny Joined: Posts: 1,101
    Dubon wrote: »
    Actually theres one more thing you could try. Install this and see if it detects it without the converter.
    http://batcmd.com/windows/10/services/usbuhci/

    Didn't seem to do anything. Is there a way to ensure I installed it correctly? The .bat file opens and closes within a millisecond.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,392
    Chocobuny wrote: »
    Dubon wrote: »
    Actually theres one more thing you could try. Install this and see if it detects it without the converter.
    http://batcmd.com/windows/10/services/usbuhci/

    Didn't seem to do anything. Is there a way to ensure I installed it correctly? The .bat file opens and closes within a millisecond.
    usbuhci.sys file exists in the %WinDir%\System32\drivers folder.
    po pimpus wrote:
    That's sad as fuck.
  • DubonDubon Joined: Posts: 495
    Thats normal. Theoretically if it worked natively undr win 7 this should allow it to work under win10. Did you test using the legacy option in sfv?.
  • HassunHassun Joined: Posts: 113
    I got my hands on a Razer Panthera and I was wondering if there is a way to see which firmware is installed on it.
  • ChocobunyChocobuny Joined: Posts: 1,101
    Well incase anyone finds this thread years later and wonders what happened, I reinstalled the game and the problem seems to have been solved. Have no idea what really went on but fuck it, its SFV.
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    Are the joystick microswitches that Qanba uses in the Crystal and Carbon the exact same ones used by Sanwa in the regular JLF? Wondering if there's any point to salvaging them. They look the same but I want to be sure.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,392
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    Are the joystick microswitches that Qanba uses in the Crystal and Carbon the exact same ones used by Sanwa in the regular JLF? Wondering if there's any point to salvaging them. They look the same but I want to be sure.

    I didn't save any of mine. Do you got pics of yours you can provide?
    po pimpus wrote:
    That's sad as fuck.
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    Darksakul wrote: »
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    Are the joystick microswitches that Qanba uses in the Crystal and Carbon the exact same ones used by Sanwa in the regular JLF? Wondering if there's any point to salvaging them. They look the same but I want to be sure.

    I didn't save any of mine. Do you got pics of yours you can provide?

    HPaEQ4T.jpg
    dIJlGdI.jpg

    The plastic on the qanba omrons are a slightly lighter shade than on the sanwa. Other than that they feel and look almost exactly the same.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,392
    Looks like they are official Omrons to me. It's one thing to make a JLF Clone, it is another to fake Omron branding.
    The different color plastics could be from a different batch or a different production line.

    It is very common for different production lines located in two different places to have plastics that don't match in color.
    po pimpus wrote:
    That's sad as fuck.
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    I desoldered all 8 qanba switches and one Sanwa switch and found the same model number on the underside (V-01-3D5-A) so I think they're indeed the same switch. The only differences were the numbers near the plunger on the underside, which I'm assuming is a batch number or something.
  • RiderkickerRiderkicker Joined: Posts: 160
    What is the size of the screw used to mount the joystick to your typical Hori/Mad Catz case? Can I use 10-32 1/2?
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,392
    What is the size of the screw used to mount the joystick to your typical Hori/Mad Catz case? Can I use 10-32 1/2?

    My best reply to you is, if you have at least one of those screws, take them to your local hardware store to get sized.
    po pimpus wrote:
    That's sad as fuck.
  • GaijinblazeGaijinblaze fingerlicans Joined: Posts: 2,524 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    i am aware of the tactic of stretching a spring to increase resistance. however, are there any options to reduce resistance apart from buying a new spring? i'm using a 3rd gen silent jlf (jlf-tprg-8byt-sk) and something about the resistance feels off. it's as though the spring is stiffer than the standard jlf even though i know that it's the same one. this creates a gummy feeling that leads to missed inputs (typically dashes) and minor hand fatigue. vendors don't offer a spring that is lighter than the stock one, and i can understand why, since the standard jlf is quite loose already. i just want my silent version to feel like the standard model. if i cut the spring, it would affect the closed end.

    as a side note, using a kowal actuator seems to make the stick even more stiff, but the above paragraph refers to usage of the stock actuator.
    This message will self-destruct.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,392
    i am aware of the tactic of stretching a spring to increase resistance. however, are there any options to reduce resistance apart from buying a new spring? i'm using a 3rd gen silent jlf (jlf-tprg-8byt-sk) and something about the resistance feels off. it's as though the spring is stiffer than the standard jlf even though i know that it's the same one. this creates a gummy feeling that leads to missed inputs (typically dashes) and minor hand fatigue. vendors don't offer a spring that is lighter than the stock one, and i can understand why, since the standard jlf is quite loose already. i just want my silent version to feel like the standard model. if i cut the spring, it would affect the closed end.

    as a side note, using a kowal actuator seems to make the stick even more stiff, but the above paragraph refers to usage of the stock actuator.

    Best tact is good old fashioned wear and tear, just keep on using the same stick match after match, game after game at it will loosen up.
    Usually joystick springs ship off slightly too tight in order to plan just for this occurrence.

    Cutting or burning springs is stupid and will just wear out the spring too fast. Cut too much of the spring and you got a worthless spring.

    if the joystick feels too gummy, you need to take apart the stick, clean and relube it. That can also loosen up a joystick
    po pimpus wrote:
    That's sad as fuck.
  • unwndunwnd Joined: Posts: 452
    edited October 9
    Hi, I need to replace the joystick in my Madcatz TES+ (the one with the shadaloo skull artwork) and after opening it up it looks like it might be really awkward to do so, does anyone have experience with this stick? Thanks
  • The_Real_PhoenixThe_Real_Phoenix electronoob Joined: Posts: 190
    unwnd wrote: »
    Hi, I need to replace the joystick in my Madcatz TES+ (the one with the shadaloo skull artwork) and after opening it up it looks like it might be really awkward to do so, does anyone have experience with this stick? Thanks

    ?
    It's basically the same as a classic TE, just with the weird front panel to be careful.

    Removing the 6 hex screws on the top, flip the whole panel at 90°, unplug the harness, unscrew the balltop, 4 screws to free the whole joystick.
    Place the new joystick, invert the process.

    10mn tops.
  • The_Real_PhoenixThe_Real_Phoenix electronoob Joined: Posts: 190
    On an other topic, I have a TE2 "faulty' and I'm a bit puzzled.
    Guy told me it wasn't working on his PS4, but works fine on his PC.

    Plugged on my PS4 and indeed it was not working.
    After wiggling the harness between the front panel and the main board, the stick started working again.
    However, the player LEDs don't light up anymore. LS/DP/RS and Lock/Unlock LED do.

    I've redone the full harness to be sure, but still no lights. Test the panel independently from the motherboard and leds are not dead.
    Connexions seem fine too (continuity between the resitor and the harness).
    It feel like a main PCB issue.

    I heard the PCB of TE2 are not reliable but did someone have seen a similar behaviour?

    Thanks.
  • HassunHassun Joined: Posts: 113
    edited October 13
    So I updated the firmware on my Razer Panthera using the little updater Razer released and now when I try to play SFV on PC the game does not recognise that there is an arcade stick connected at all. It doesn't even ask to remap the buttons.

    What's wrong?

    P.S. I did already try re-installing the x-input driver you can download from their website.
  • GaijinblazeGaijinblaze fingerlicans Joined: Posts: 2,524 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    edited October 13
    Darksakul wrote: »
    i am aware of the tactic of stretching a spring to increase resistance. however, are there any options to reduce resistance apart from buying a new spring? i'm using a 3rd gen silent jlf (jlf-tprg-8byt-sk) and something about the resistance feels off. it's as though the spring is stiffer than the standard jlf even though i know that it's the same one. this creates a gummy feeling that leads to missed inputs (typically dashes) and minor hand fatigue. vendors don't offer a spring that is lighter than the stock one, and i can understand why, since the standard jlf is quite loose already. i just want my silent version to feel like the standard model. if i cut the spring, it would affect the closed end.

    as a side note, using a kowal actuator seems to make the stick even more stiff, but the above paragraph refers to usage of the stock actuator.

    Best tact is good old fashioned wear and tear, just keep on using the same stick match after match, game after game at it will loosen up.
    Usually joystick springs ship off slightly too tight in order to plan just for this occurrence.

    Cutting or burning springs is stupid and will just wear out the spring too fast. Cut too much of the spring and you got a worthless spring.

    if the joystick feels too gummy, you need to take apart the stick, clean and relube it. That can also loosen up a joystick

    thanks. the stick is brand new so i assume it does not need cleaning or lubing. hopefully you are right and it just needs time. the case i'm using is also a lighter weight plastic case compared to my old mdf case. it's about 2-3 pounds lighter i would estimate. maybe that also influences how tight the stick feels. but either way... not liking the stick so far. i have a light touch and regular jlf feels a lot more crisp. i will try adding some weight to the stick, but other than penny rolls, i'm not familiar with a cost effective way of doing this. and the inside of the case does not have a lot of space to work with.
    This message will self-destruct.
  • Pr0sk_Pr0sk_ Joined: Posts: 35
    I ordered an artwork from Tek-Innovations with "Sanwa Button Insert Cutouts"

    Would these fit into Seimitsu clear buttons as well ? It doesn't seem to make a big difference but I'd like to be sure before ordering a set of 8 buttons

    Thanks !
    1488536877-twitt.png
  • jey-arejey-are Intermediate Noob Joined: Posts: 100
    I'm looking for a nice thin sheet of felt or non-slip fabric. And some smaller thin rubber feet.

    This will be for a custom case. But I'm a big fan of my Hori rap v3 Kai. Big non-slip bottom and the feet doesn't really dig into your legs. I understand the feet on the hori are specific to the mold on the bottom metal panel. But just trying to aim towards something like that.

    Could someone point me in the right direction please? Thanks.
    -Psn ID: JxRx420
    -Instagram: jeyrizzy
    -Usually plays Tekken.
  • MaximilianoMaximiliano Joined: Posts: 719
    Hey all. I built my own stick a while back with a Universal Brook board, but for whatever reason it randomly disconnects from the game every now and then.

    The stick has a cat5 passthrough, but I had this problem even when I had it connected to the board directly.

    Things I've tried so far:

    * Cleaned the contacts inside the passthrough
    * Soldered on a new USB female jack
    * Updated the Brook board

    Is there anything I've forgotten to troubleshoot? I'd hate to have to buy a new board to solve an unknown issue.

    These are the only pictures I can post right now. I can post more later when I get home if necessary.
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    This is only speculation, but perhaps the board + pi is drawing too much power from the console.

    Also if you're playing on PS4 Pro, there are reports of the console itself not maintaining a steady 5v to the USB ports.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,392
    try a powered USB hub
    po pimpus wrote:
    That's sad as fuck.
  • Mr.PaVy-RDMr.PaVy-RD Joined: Posts: 3,632
    hello, i just bought a TES+ and my stick keeps registering Triangle, i opened the stick up and removed the wires from that button and it still stays on? anyone had similar problem know a solution?
    I block better in Marvel than i do in Streetfighter :(

    3s-Yang/Urien/Dudley
    Ae2012-Yun/Yang/Seth/Ryu/Cody/Dudley
    Your signature has been modifed, please read the rules.
  • Mr.PaVy-RDMr.PaVy-RD Joined: Posts: 3,632
    i cant even set my buttons in fightcade on pc cause the button has to be released lmao GG
    I block better in Marvel than i do in Streetfighter :(

    3s-Yang/Urien/Dudley
    Ae2012-Yun/Yang/Seth/Ryu/Cody/Dudley
    Your signature has been modifed, please read the rules.
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,602
    edited October 13
    Mr.PaVy-RD wrote: »
    hello, i just bought a TES+ and my stick keeps registering Triangle, i opened the stick up and removed the wires from that button and it still stays on? anyone had similar problem know a solution?
    Mr.PaVy-RD wrote: »
    i cant even set my buttons in fightcade on pc cause the button has to be released lmao GG

    https://support.focusattack.com/hc/en-us/articles/115001863283-TE2-and-TE-S-stuck-input-issue-fix?mobile_site=true

    Basically you need to find the appropriate diode for the Triangle button and desolder it.
  • Mr.PaVy-RDMr.PaVy-RD Joined: Posts: 3,632
    oh come on i dont even know how to solder, i try to get back into fighting games by buying a Stick and of course its messed up lmao gg madcats
    I block better in Marvel than i do in Streetfighter :(

    3s-Yang/Urien/Dudley
    Ae2012-Yun/Yang/Seth/Ryu/Cody/Dudley
    Your signature has been modifed, please read the rules.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,186
    Then it seems it’s time to throw that bad boy on eBay for parts and get yourself another stick from a company that’s not defunct. At least you’ve got quality choices at your disposal. Hori, Qanba and Razer have nice sticks!
  • Mr.PaVy-RDMr.PaVy-RD Joined: Posts: 3,632
    in that case anyone wanna buy or trade a stick? lol
    I block better in Marvel than i do in Streetfighter :(

    3s-Yang/Urien/Dudley
    Ae2012-Yun/Yang/Seth/Ryu/Cody/Dudley
    Your signature has been modifed, please read the rules.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,186
    Mr.PaVy-RD wrote: »
    in that case anyone wanna buy or trade a stick? lol

    Roll the dice and find out
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