Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

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  • StrtFghtrMstrStrtFghtrMstr SRnk1VaBeachAlphaTeam Joined: Posts: 539 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    Mr.PaVy-RD wrote: »
    oh come on i dont even know how to solder, i try to get back into fighting games by buying a Stick and of course its messed up lmao gg madcats

    Read through that thread, as long as you break the trace line it's just as effective as desoldering. A lot less effort then settinf a trade/sale, shipping, purchasing/receiving in a replacement stick. But agreed you and a lot of folks wouldn't be going through any of these problems if MCZ had better components in their PS4 sticks.
    Just a veteran player enjoying competitive SFV & the CPT
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  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    Mr.PaVy-RD wrote: »
    oh come on i dont even know how to solder, i try to get back into fighting games by buying a Stick and of course its messed up lmao gg madcats

    Read through that thread, as long as you break the trace line it's just as effective as desoldering. A lot less effort then settinf a trade/sale, shipping, purchasing/receiving in a replacement stick. But agreed you and a lot of folks wouldn't be going through any of these problems if MCZ had better components in their PS4 sticks.

    or their products in general.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • Mr.PaVy-RDMr.PaVy-RD Joined: Posts: 3,681
    this is very odd so the triangle button is repeatedly activating but when playing a fighting game the button doesnt activate in game so when i switched the wire from L1 and Triangle and. Now triangle works but not L1 but its still detected as being activated. im not sure how to remove the trace from that button im very stupid when it comes to this stuff
    I block better in Marvel than i do in Streetfighter :(

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  • MaximilianoMaximiliano Joined: Posts: 720
    edited October 14
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    This is only speculation, but perhaps the board + pi is drawing too much power from the console.
    The Pi has its own separate power port on the side, so I don't think that's the issue.
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    Also if you're playing on PS4 Pro, there are reports of the console itself not maintaining a steady 5v to the USB ports.
    It has disconnected on me on several different PS4s, most of which were originals.
    Darksakul wrote: »
    try a powered USB hub
    Can you clarify? I'm not exactly sure what you're suggesting.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    This is only speculation, but perhaps the board + pi is drawing too much power from the console.
    The Pi has its own separate power port on the side, so I don't think that's the issue.
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    Also if you're playing on PS4 Pro, there are reports of the console itself not maintaining a steady 5v to the USB ports.
    It has disconnected on me on several different PS4s, most of which were originals.
    Darksakul wrote: »
    try a powered USB hub
    Can you clarify? I'm not exactly sure what you're suggesting.

    Get a USB Hub that requires it's own wall plug for power.

    The issue you are running into is sometimes the PS4 is being stingy with power, a USB hub that drawing power from it's own voltage adapter instead of the PS4 is the work around for the issue.
    So your stick will get it's power from the USB Hub which has it's own wall plug over trying to get power from the PS4 console.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • DEZALBDEZALB "Yamazaki Nigari" Joined: Posts: 610
    is there something that is commonly used as a spacer when stacking a ufb and Cthulhu board on eachother? Dont have much room in the vshg for both of these pcbs.

    THanks
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    DEZALB wrote: »
    is there something that is commonly used as a spacer when stacking a ufb and Cthulhu board on eachother? Dont have much room in the vshg for both of these pcbs.

    THanks

    pcb stand offs, zip tie anchors, double sided foam mounting tape, and much more
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • MaximilianoMaximiliano Joined: Posts: 720
    Darksakul wrote: »
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    This is only speculation, but perhaps the board + pi is drawing too much power from the console.
    The Pi has its own separate power port on the side, so I don't think that's the issue.
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    Also if you're playing on PS4 Pro, there are reports of the console itself not maintaining a steady 5v to the USB ports.
    It has disconnected on me on several different PS4s, most of which were originals.
    Darksakul wrote: »
    try a powered USB hub
    Can you clarify? I'm not exactly sure what you're suggesting.

    Get a USB Hub that requires it's own wall plug for power.

    The issue you are running into is sometimes the PS4 is being stingy with power, a USB hub that drawing power from it's own voltage adapter instead of the PS4 is the work around for the issue.
    So your stick will get it's power from the USB Hub which has it's own wall plug over trying to get power from the PS4 console.

    But this is an issue that just started happening, and I've been using it for well over a year now.

    Does it become harder for the Brook board to receive power over time?... I must be missing something.
  • resresresres jason Joined: Posts: 455
    So... I broke a microswitch on my Seimitsu LS-40.

    Quick question: Is it possible to swap joystick PCBs? For example, can I just put a LS-32 PCB in the LS-40 joystick housing? If not, what are my options? I'm guessing soldering a new microswitch?
  • ayechpayechp Joined: Posts: 15
    jopamo wrote: »
    Hex screw? Shove a wide rubber band in the groove, then follow with the hex driver. Turn til it loosens.

    Else, there’s always Engineer PZ-57 or PZ-58 screw pliers.

    No matter what...Please don’t drill that thing out. Take a drill to that beautiful Panzer and I’ll climb through your screen and slap you.

    Thanks a bunch, worked like a charm.



    Now, I've recently acquired a ps360+, how would I go about dual modding a brook ufb with it? Is there an easy solution that utilizes the 20-pin connectors or just anything convenient in general?
  • mR_CaESaRmR_CaESaR Joined: Posts: 729
    Was wondering if there's anybody that can help with weird behaviour I'm getting from my wii pad hack.

    Details

    Issue: when plugged in to the SNES classic, it seems to work for a couple of seconds and then just freeze for a minute or so, then it eventually behaves the way the stick is supposed to

    Fightstick modded: Madcatz 360 fight stick pro

    Pad used: Wii classic pro

    K2mZjNu.jpg

    Couldn't find much detail of this controller so I got my multimeter to try and determine where buttons were going.

    Jfm1JTE.jpg

    The pcb is common ground and the shoulder buttons don't appear to require any inverting.

    The wii pcb is not directly connected to the buttons or stick, it's soldered onto the 360 pcb which is connected to the Madcatz terminal strip.

    All wires are connected to their respective buttons and the multimeter testing shows theres continuity through both the 360 and wii controller.

    1P, 2P, 3P, 4P, 1K, 2K, 3K, 4K, up, down, left, right, home, start and select ground and 5v are all connected but they both individually have their cable (usb for the 360 and the Nintendo wii for the classic pro)

    Anybody know what could be my problem?

    Thanks.
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 133
    I'm looking for a laptop to play Tekken on when I travel. Running the game itself is easy but I'm concerned about monitor input lag. It's not a spec I really see advertised for laptop displays so I'm having a hard time finding anything. Any ideas?
  • BubbledotjpgBubbledotjpg Joined: Posts: 257
    I had this same struggle. Your best bet is to find a site that tells you the panel inside the pc then you can use that panels model number to find the input lag. Even still it's really difficult to find the info
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    edited October 20
    mR_CaESaR wrote: »
    Was wondering if there's anybody that can help with weird behaviour I'm getting from my wii pad hack.

    Details

    Issue: when plugged in to the SNES classic, it seems to work for a couple of seconds and then just freeze for a minute or so, then it eventually behaves the way the stick is supposed to

    Fightstick modded: Madcatz 360 fight stick pro

    Pad used: Wii classic pro

    image snip

    Couldn't find much detail of this controller so I got my multimeter to try and determine where buttons were going.

    image snip

    The pcb is common ground and the shoulder buttons don't appear to require any inverting.

    The wii pcb is not directly connected to the buttons or stick, it's soldered onto the 360 pcb which is connected to the Madcatz terminal strip.

    All wires are connected to their respective buttons and the multimeter testing shows theres continuity through both the 360 and wii controller.

    1P, 2P, 3P, 4P, 1K, 2K, 3K, 4K, up, down, left, right, home, start and select ground and 5v are all connected but they both individually have their cable (usb for the 360 and the Nintendo wii for the classic pro)

    Anybody know what could be my problem?

    Thanks.

    What kind of Xbox 360 pad are you using? Does it had trigger inversion?

    Also Did you make sure you are following the two golden rules of Dual Modding
    1. all boards must be connected to power
    2. all boards must be connected to ground
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • mR_CaESaRmR_CaESaR Joined: Posts: 729
    Darksakul wrote: »
    What kind of Xbox 360 pad are you using? Does it had trigger inversion?

    Also Did you make sure you are following the two golden rules of Dual Modding
    1. all boards must be connected to power
    2. all boards must be connected to ground

    Nah not the trigger version, the Mad Catz SE/TE/VS/Fightstick Pro version.

    Yeah all boards have power and ground.

    I'm wondering though, the Wii power is only 3.3v from the pinouts I can find and the 360 pcb is 5v iirc, would that present a problem?

    Also, would removing the analog daughter board present an issue?
  • DEZALBDEZALB "Yamazaki Nigari" Joined: Posts: 610
    Is there anyone that sells/makes black transparent battops?
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,521
    mR_CaESaR wrote: »
    Also, would removing the analog daughter board present an issue?
    I was wondering about this part.
    Even though the SNES Classic doesn't use them, maybe the controller chip still does some sort of initialization with the Analogs shortly after being powered on.
    Try neutralizing the analogs directly at the connector pins, maybe that'll work. In any case, I don't think it'd hurt to neutralize them anyways.

    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • mR_CaESaRmR_CaESaR Joined: Posts: 729
    mR_CaESaR wrote: »
    Also, would removing the analog daughter board present an issue?
    I was wondering about this part.
    Even though the SNES Classic doesn't use them, maybe the controller chip still does some sort of initialization with the Analogs shortly after being powered on.
    Try neutralizing the analogs directly at the connector pins, maybe that'll work. In any case, I don't think it'd hurt to neutralize them anyways.

    It's exactly that! My issue is now fixed.

    I tried wiring the pcb by itself without a dual mod and it behaved exactly the same.

    Fortunately, I still had the daughter board. The moment I rewired the board back on, the behaviour stopped and is working perfectly.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,252
    edited October 21
    I’ve recently considered purchasing a Sega Saturn for some old school Capcom fighters (MSH, XvSF, CoTA, SFA, SFA2, etc).

    The catch here is that I’ve also got multiple Raspberry Pis running the arcade ROMs of the same games.

    My question: Is there anything truly compelling (aside from less input lag) about these games on a Saturn? ..at least over their CPS emulated (FBA) counterparts?
    Post edited by jopamo on
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,521
    edited October 21
    jopamo wrote: »
    I’ve recently considered purchasing a Sega Saturn for some old school Capcom fighters (MSH, XvSF, CoTA, SFA, SFA2, etc).

    The catch here is that I’ve also got multiple Raspberry Pis running the arcade ROMs of the same games.

    My question: Is there anything truly compelling (aside from less input lag) about these games on a Saturn? ..at least over their CPS emulated (FBA) counterparts?

    You can check each of the games here, and there's a sub-page outlining the home versions and how they differ from the arcade counterparts:
    http://rq87.flyingomelette.com/RQ/Marvel/main.html

    The guy has an SF2 shrine, but doesn't touch upon the Alpha games, though...
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,252
    edited October 22
    Thanks for sharing! From the looks of it—with the exception being the MSH port—Saturn’s the way to go!
    Ordered a Japanese white console. Guess I just wanted an excuse to restore more hardware ;-)
    Post edited by jopamo on
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,521
    jopamo wrote: »
    Thanks for sharing! From the looks of it—with the exception being the MSH port—Saturn’s the way to go!
    Which is kind of annoying; MSH is my favorite fighting game ever, and all home ports of it suck (until we got MvC Origins).
    So CPS2 board + Supergun is the way to go. :)

    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    Last I check Saturn Emulation is spotty at best.

    Better to have an actual Saturn.

    Also MSH is the only meh Capcom fighter on the Saturn
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • otterotter CFN: otter- Joined: Posts: 4,661
    has anyone started building and selling replacement TE2 cables by chance? Mine is shorting out, and I can only find used ones for sale online (probably with the same issue). I may just build my own but i'm lazy.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,252
    edited October 23
  • ShiroZXShiroZX Joined: Posts: 59
    Has anyone ever shipped a fightstick outside of the us?.
    I heard it's pretty expensive, so I'd like to know how much it costs to ship, say, from socal to mexico
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    ShiroZX wrote: »
    Has anyone ever shipped a fightstick outside of the us?.
    I heard it's pretty expensive, so I'd like to know how much it costs to ship, say, from socal to mexico

    Depends on the carrier, weight, class of shipment, ect
    are you including tracking, insurance

    Shipping a stick within the US isn't all that cheap ether.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,374
    ShiroZX wrote: »
    Has anyone ever shipped a fightstick outside of the us?.
    I heard it's pretty expensive, so I'd like to know how much it costs to ship, say, from socal to mexico

    Its all box size and weight. Shipping a 13lbs Panzer Fight Stick 3 to Australia, France, or Germany: $85; Canada is only a bit cheaper.

    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
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  • BoboGloryBoboGlory Joined: Posts: 545
    BoboGlory wrote: »
    Does anyone have experience with installing the perfect 360 or the mas opticon stick to the MC Cthulhu? I install everything including the VCC terminal but I can't get any directions to come out. The closest thing I got was it got stuck on the up and left input.

    Alright an update on this with a help of a friend. Everything is working but the up direction for strange reason. Does it make any difference if I unsolder the screw terminal and solder the wire where the points are? I don’t know any solution at this point.

  • Dr. FaustDr. Faust Charging all day long Joined: Posts: 580
    Hey I got this Madcatz fightstick pro that has a broken pcb( i think the pcb works but if you look at the img the usb is dented) so I can start learning how to mod and install pcbs. Any advise on what pcb to buy that will fit well into this and what equipment will I need? I'm thinking about adding leds to the buttons but if that is too hard for a first serious mod then I'll wait on that. I hear the brooks boards are really good. Modding for ps4 btw
    https://scizormaster.deviantart.com/art/Untitled-711863881
    https://scizormaster.deviantart.com/art/Untitled-711863870
    https://scizormaster.deviantart.com/art/Untitled-711863878
    Steam: johnfewiv
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  • ShiroZXShiroZX Joined: Posts: 59
    Dr. Faust wrote: »
    Hey I got this Madcatz fightstick pro that has a broken pcb( i think the pcb works but if you look at the img the usb is dented) so I can start learning how to mod and install pcbs. Any advise on what pcb to buy that will fit well into this and what equipment will I need? I'm thinking about adding leds to the buttons but if that is too hard for a first serious mod then I'll wait on that. I hear the brooks boards are really good. Modding for ps4 btw

    I heard brook pcb's are easy to install. If you want to add leds the only thing I can think off is the kaimana mini, which is like a pcb that mounts over the pcb, but the pcb needs to have 20 pin harness(idk what is called), only place I know where you can buy it it's paradise arcade shop. Search all you need over there, also there is a tutorial on yt, search it. And that Brook ps4+ has that 20 pin harness.

    Nice fightstick, love that design. Maybe you can replace the whole usb cable
  • DrambitDrambit High Overlord Balrog Joined: Posts: 598
    I would like to modify a stick with Seimitsu PS-14KN buttons so that the buttons light up on press. Can you control the LEDs with a similar board you would use to control the interfacing? Right now I use a teensy 2.0 board as the USB interface, could I use that to control leds are would I need a special board? Also, I want to manually mod them with leds instead of the SMD led discs, what spec LEDs should I buy? I found a bunch of 3mm 3.3v leds for dirt cheap, not sure what size/voltage rating is recommended though. Thanks.
  • AbevAbev Jack of no trades, master of none. Joined: Posts: 28
    Just got a fresh new TES+ in the mail... and stuck on RS function, even though the lock/unlock button is working just fine to toggle that. What do I do, just send it back and argue with Newegg for a refund?
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,252
    edited October 30
    Abev wrote: »
    Just got a fresh new TES+ in the mail... and stuck on RS function[...] What do I do, just send it back and argue with Newegg for a refund?
    Yup
  • ispanjolasispanjolas Joined: Posts: 5
    edited October 31
    Hi, a quick question is there a place that I could buy the metal top panel for madcatz tes+? Mine is bent where the buttons are, it was my own fault, and I would like to replace the panel, plexi and artwork, preferably in uk or that they do international shipping, I’ve seen the plexi on focusattack but not the metal panel
    Post edited by ispanjolas on
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,252
    Unless you have a trustworthy metal fabrication shop nearby, you have limited options:
    1. Go to aforementioned shop with original panel and get duplicate made (good luck with that)
    2. Buy another TES+ that’s busted (based on PCB manufacturing quality of these, it won’t be hard to find one) and swap the panel.
    3. Bust out a towel, a rubber mallet (or even a hammer, depending on the severity of the damage)—lay that bay boy on a soft but flat surface

    And “go to town.”
  • ispanjolasispanjolas Joined: Posts: 5
    jopamo wrote: »
    Unless you have a trustworthy metal fabrication shop nearby, you have limited options:
    1. Go to aforementioned shop with original panel and get duplicate made (good luck with that)
    2. Buy another TES+ that’s busted (based on PCB manufacturing quality of these, it won’t be hard to find one) and swap the panel.
    3. Bust out a towel, a rubber mallet (or even a hammer, depending on the severity of the damage)—lay that bay boy on a soft but flat surface

    And “go to town.”

    I thought so, unfortunately I have two left hands so last option is out, I’ll have to check the metal workers next to my work, but I doubt they’ll do it. Hopefully I can find a non working model for cheap

  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    jopamo wrote: »
    Unless you have a trustworthy metal fabrication shop nearby, you have limited options:
    1. Go to aforementioned shop with original panel and get duplicate made (good luck with that)
    2. Buy another TES+ that’s busted (based on PCB manufacturing quality of these, it won’t be hard to find one) and swap the panel.
    3. Bust out a towel, a rubber mallet (or even a hammer, depending on the severity of the damage)—lay that bay boy on a soft but flat surface

    And “go to town.”

    That last option, #3.
    Be Careful, you do not want to stretch (thin out) or contract (make the wrong areas thicker) the metal with your hammer blows.
    You only want to restore the original shape.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,252
    edited October 31
    Lay the panel on a short-height bristle carpet or foot mat. Put the towel over the panel. Start with a mallet to get the big bends out. Finish off with the hammer, flipping up the towel regularly to inspect your work.

    This method worked well for me. Believe in yourself. It’s cheaper
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    jopamo wrote: »
    Lay the panel on a short-height bristle carpet or foot mat. Put the towel over the panel. Start with a mallet to get the big bends out. Finish off with the hammer, flipping up the towel regularly to inspect your work.

    This method worked well for me. Believe in yourself. It’s cheaper

    Also take your time, put some muscle into it but do not go all ham on it
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
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