Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

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  • ShiroZXShiroZX Joined: Posts: 83
    edited December 2017
    Merry Christmas SRK.
    So my stick is starting to pick up a few scratches. That made me think about how many scratches it could get in the future, I don't want it to be too scratched, it can really be quite annoying. I was wondering if there is any way I could take them off. Just the ones that are on the surface. I know there are big hits I can't take off.
    Post edited by ShiroZX on
  • mikeoharamikeohara V.S.O.P.C. Joined: Posts: 303 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    I posted this in the hangout thread (and subsequently moved it here), but I apparently am in need of a cable door for my Obsidian since the one that came with the unit snapped a hinge; and from the looks of things the only makers of the door are Qanba themselves. Will the following work with the obsidian?

    http://www.qbfighter.com/en/product?no=52
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    ShiroZX wrote: »
    Merry Christmas SRK.
    So my stick is starting to pick up a few scratches. That made me think about how many scratches it could get in the future, I don't want it to be too scratched, it can really be quite annoying. I was wondering if there is any way I could take them off. Just the ones that are on the surface. I know there are big hits I can't take off.

    It really depends what the scratches are in (the material the scratches are in) and how deep are their.

    Light scuffs and such in plastic can be polished out with products like NOVUS Plastic Polish

    For very deep scratches and cuts, you have to use a filler and cover over with something like paint.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • earthwormbenearthwormben Joined: Posts: 61
    Darksakul wrote: »
    ShiroZX wrote: »
    Merry Christmas SRK.
    So my stick is starting to pick up a few scratches. That made me think about how many scratches it could get in the future, I don't want it to be too scratched, it can really be quite annoying. I was wondering if there is any way I could take them off. Just the ones that are on the surface. I know there are big hits I can't take off.

    It really depends what the scratches are in (the material the scratches are in) and how deep are their.

    Light scuffs and such in plastic can be polished out with products like NOVUS Plastic Polish

    For very deep scratches and cuts, you have to use a filler and cover over with something like paint.

    An Intresting product you can get is a pen for cars that fix scuffs. It's not perfect but good it there deep, and you could then use the plastic polish after.
  • earthwormbenearthwormben Joined: Posts: 61
    mikeohara wrote: »
    I posted this in the hangout thread (and subsequently moved it here), but I apparently am in need of a cable door for my Obsidian since the one that came with the unit snapped a hinge; and from the looks of things the only makers of the door are Qanba themselves. Will the following work with the obsidian?

    http://www.qbfighter.com/en/product?no=52

    I hate cable doors on premium sticks. Have you considered drilling a hole, putting a USB neutrik in there and not using the cable door again? You could glue the door in place
  • ShiroZXShiroZX Joined: Posts: 83
    edited December 2017
    Darksakul wrote: »
    It really depends what the scratches are in (the material the scratches are in) and how deep are their.

    Light scuffs and such in plastic can be polished out with products like NOVUS Plastic Polish

    For very deep scratches and cuts, you have to use a filler and cover over with something like paint.

    Yes yes, scuffs, in plastic, that is the ones I would like to take off.
    I know that deep scratches or hits cannot be fixed easily.



    I hate cable doors on premium sticks. Have you considered drilling a hole, putting a USB neutrik in there and not using the cable door again? You could glue the door in place

    I like those doors. They look good, but feel pretty cheap tho. Is it hard to make a proper cable door?
    Post edited by ShiroZX on
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,370
    edited December 2017
    For light scuffs, start with Novus 2 and a microfiber cloth. Finish up with the polish (Novus 1)
    Post edited by jopamo on
  • earthwormbenearthwormben Joined: Posts: 61
    ShiroZX wrote: »
    [
    I like those doors. They look good, but feel pretty cheep tho. Is it hard to make a proper cable door?
    They are what they are, just curious if it's the hinge that has broke? That seems to be what goes on the doors. A few years back, I took a friends mayflash, added 2 n52 magnets where the clip for door is and glued them in place. Can't remember what we used for a new (part of a keyring or something) handle but it worked nicely

  • clescdcclescdc Joined: Posts: 2
    This feels like a dumb question, but here we go. I've got a stick with a Brook PS3/4 board in it. When I hook it to a PC, it reads as an Xbox 360 controller. If I wanted to get a Brook adapter to use it with a Switch, I'd get the PS4 to Switch converter, right? I only ask because I don't know what the board "thinks" it's connected to if it's plugged into a converter and a Switch, so I don't know if it would be recognized as a PS or Xbox controller. As far as I can tell, this board doesn't support holding a button to force it into being recognized as a certain thing (other than firmware update mode), so I'd like to be sure before ordering my converter.

    Thanks for taking the time to answer. I've been lurking for years, you guys are crazy useful.
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    The brook Brook PS3/4 board defaults over to Xinput compatibility for PC, and it mimics a Xbox 360 controller when it really isn't

    If you got the Brook Universal Fight board, PS3, PS4, Xbox 360 (Xinput), Xbox One and Switch (pokken Pad) are all supported
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • WindyManWindyMan Actually Joined: 12 Years Ago Joined: Posts: 9
    Button lighting question.

    I'm going to get a Panzer 3 case with the 6-button front panel in the new year. I'm thinking about potentially using LEDs and clear 24mms on the front to elegantly display player number and turbo status lights through the buttons. I will also be putting solid artwork inserts inside them. That leads me to the Seimitsu PS-14-DN-K Clears, which would be OK for this.

    But what would be really nice for my build would be the PS-14-DN-C Solid Body buttons, also with the clear cap for artwork inserts. I'm going for a classic look and I don't think fully clear buttons can do that. Not to mention that I don't care at all for the brightness level that an illuminated clear button gives off. I want something more subtle.

    I'd like to know if anyone has experience with solid body/clear cap buttons, and whether anyone has tried to position the LED so that the clear cap portion of the button is illuminated through the solid housing of the button and how that might look. I believe there is a hole on the screw portion of the solid body that might let an LED light shine through into where the clear cap is, which would bounce up through to the top of the clear cap and achieve the level of lighting I want. That would be the most ideal solution for me.

    If SRK brings back Street Fighter smilies (qRpasbj.gifL2fGBNZ.gif) I'll bring back FinestKO.com. Deal? Deal.
  • clescdcclescdc Joined: Posts: 2
    Darksakul wrote: »
    The brook Brook PS3/4 board defaults over to Xinput compatibility for PC, and it mimics a Xbox 360 controller when it really isn't

    If you got the Brook Universal Fight board, PS3, PS4, Xbox 360 (Xinput), Xbox One and Switch (pokken Pad) are all supported

    Cool. So you're saying that for converter purposes, it wouldn't be mimicing a 360 controller in that way, right? The Brook PS3/PS4 to Switch adapter is my huckleberry? I'm not really looking to swap out my whole PCB, since I'm using this stick mostly with PC and a little with PS4, but would like to have something for when friends with Switches want to play the SF collection in a few months.

    Again, I appreciate your time.
  • thatfoocrispythatfoocrispy Joined: Posts: 26
    has anyone used usb 3.0 cables for their sticks? a friend asked about using 2.0 vs 3.0 but i dont know much about usb standards so idk.

    thanks in advance.
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    has anyone used usb 3.0 cables for their sticks? a friend asked about using 2.0 vs 3.0 but i dont know much about usb standards so idk.

    thanks in advance.

    It really depends on your PCB.

    So far as I know on the market, all the PCBs in sticks out there are USB 1.1 or USB 2.0 devices and get no benefit from USB 3.0
    USB 1.1 devices does not work with USB 3.0 ports as USB 3.0 is not compatible with USB 1.1

    Also USB 3.0 cables cost more because of the extra wiring that isn't used by USB 2.0
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • NeoHeirNeoHeir The Inheritor of the Net Joined: Posts: 22
    Has anyone tried to take apart a Hori Mini Gamepad for PS4? Would it be a cheaper alternative to pad hack that or just buy the Brook PS4/PS3 PCB?
    PSN,XBL & Steam: NeoHeir
  • ConsistencyConfirmerConsistencyConfirmer Joined: Posts: 19
    hey guys, this is what the outside plug of my stick looks like.

    neutrik%20usb%20black%20%28Custom%29.jpg

    Just wondering what sort of cable I should get to plug this into my PC. Obviously one side needs to be a USB A Male (to plug into PC), i guess the other end needs to be USB B male, to plug into this outlet? I guess I'll probably shoot for about 3 meters right?

    Sorry if this is a simplistic question, but I just want to make sure I'm understanding this properly.
  • ClandestineClandestine Patiently waiting for CvS3 Joined: Posts: 578
    edited December 2017
    hey guys, this is what the outside plug of my stick looks like.
    neutrik%20usb%20black%20%28Custom%29.jpg

    Just wondering what sort of cable I should get to plug this into my PC. Obviously one side needs to be a USB A Male (to plug into PC), i guess the other end needs to be USB B male, to plug into this outlet? I guess I'll probably shoot for about 3 meters right?

    Sorry if this is a simplistic question, but I just want to make sure I'm understanding this properly.

    Yes, usb a to b. The length of the cable is up to you.
  • PAOPAO Joined: Posts: 16
    howdy.
    anyone know where i can get an rj-45 to nes/snes cable or if anyone knows how to make one?
    looking to connect my ps360+ to some old nintendo consoles.
    Thanks!
  • earthwormbenearthwormben Joined: Posts: 61
    edited January 2
    PAO wrote: »
    howdy.
    anyone know where i can get an rj-45 to nes/snes cable or if anyone knows how to make one?
    looking to connect my ps360+ to some old nintendo consoles.
    Thanks!
    The confusion for this comes from an rj-45 being an industry standard adaptor, but obviously snes to rj-45 isn't industry standard.
    You just need to wire up both ends parallel (The rj45 and the patch panel aka rj45 neutrik).
    I'm studying Network engineering at uni so part of one of my papers was just on cabling .

    Just remember the rj45 has nothing to do with Ethernet cables until you use it as a termination device, as gamers have shown it works as a great USB termination device
  • Infected_ReconInfected_Recon Joined: Posts: 2
    Not sure if this is the right place to ask this, but does anyone know how to go about painting a TES+? I want to paint the sides and main body, but i'm not too sure of what to buy and the proper way to go about doing this.
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    Not sure if this is the right place to ask this, but does anyone know how to go about painting a TES+? I want to paint the sides and main body, but i'm not too sure of what to buy and the proper way to go about doing this.

    If you never painted before, don't make the TES+ your first project.
    Do some smaller, less costly projects first. If you need to get some practice projects out of the way first.

    What you will need
    Primer (go with gray primer)
    Sand paper (high grit sand paper, atleast 300 gritt)
    painters tape (to mark off any areas that isn't going to be painted.
    paint
    clear coat


    Basically here is the steps to pain on plastic.

    1. Disassemble your TES+ or what ever you want painted.
    2. Lightly sand all the parts you want painted (This breaks up that surface layer and allows the paint and primer to get a proper bond). Then clean all the parts of any dust or grease.
    Use some warm water and dish soap if you have too (dry completely).
    3. apply several coats of primer, follow the directions of your primer, use long continuous strokes. You not get perfect coverage with the first coat.
    4. apply paint according to your paint instructions, applying several coats just like the primer
    5. Clear Coat

    Things to avoid
    1. Do not assume that paint with the primer included is going to cut it. You want a proper primer to "bite" into the material and make a proper chemical bond.
    This is so that the paint do not peel or fake off later. Also Krylon for plastics suck. Use Automotive grade paints or for file details, paints for plastic models works too.

    2. do not go too heavy with each coat, take it slow. Each coat is supposed to go on thin. If you miss spots or the paint too think with the first coat, the additional coats will fill in what you miss.
    This way you avoid drip marks.

    Do not take short cuts.

    Also without some experience, black plastics painted white look awful.
    The primer will help with some of this
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • t_rexdext_rexdex Joined: Posts: 11
    Where can I buy the ribbon cables used in the madcatz sticks? I know Focus Attack only has the 20 pin from what I have seen.
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    t_rexdex wrote: »
    Where can I buy the ribbon cables used in the madcatz sticks? I know Focus Attack only has the 20 pin from what I have seen.

    Which ones? TE, VS, TE2 ?
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • t_rexdext_rexdex Joined: Posts: 11
    @Darksakul te/se
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    t_rexdex wrote: »

    Your best bet is trying to find someone with a older TE/SE they are willing to salvage ribbon cables from it.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • t_rexdext_rexdex Joined: Posts: 11
    Thank you, I just do not want to cut these up and not have a back cable for the stock pcb.
  • Infected_ReconInfected_Recon Joined: Posts: 2
    Any good brands for primer and paint that you would recommend?
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    Any good brands for primer and paint that you would recommend?

    I can recommend to avoid, Krylon is trash.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • BlocksWithFaceBlocksWithFace Joined: Posts: 14
    You could look for modeling spray paints like the Tamiya brand, but they can be pricey.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,370
    Vinyl dye ain’t perfect but at least it will [theoretically] have better chip resistance than paint and primer. ABS plastic painting items that come into frequent hand contact is a giant bag of hurt. Good luck.
  • BrokeHobbyistBrokeHobbyist Joined: Posts: 10
    Hello all. Been poking around in the thread trying to decide if I want an arcade stick yet, and what options were available to me. For the greatest use and ease on my wallet, it seems like a custom stick featuring the Brooks UFB would be best, to avoid buying a $150 stick outright and then another $90 on top for the PCB, especially if I make my own wooden case.

    That leads to the question of what buttons outside the main 8 and start/select are essential. Home would probably be a very good thing to have, but what about L3, R3, and TP button, how useful are they in your own experience? Also, have any of you had good reason to need a LS/RS/DP switch or is the default DP behaviour perfectly fine for your use cases?
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    jopamo wrote: »
    Vinyl dye ain’t perfect but at least it will [theoretically] have better chip resistance than paint and primer. ABS plastic painting items that come into frequent hand contact is a giant bag of hurt. Good luck.
    Vinyl Dye only really works if the base color of the plastic is lighter color.
    If you are working with Black plastics, it looks like anus
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    Hello all. Been poking around in the thread trying to decide if I want an arcade stick yet, and what options were available to me. For the greatest use and ease on my wallet, it seems like a custom stick featuring the Brooks UFB would be best, to avoid buying a $150 stick outright and then another $90 on top for the PCB, especially if I make my own wooden case.

    That leads to the question of what buttons outside the main 8 and start/select are essential. Home would probably be a very good thing to have, but what about L3, R3, and TP button, how useful are they in your own experience? Also, have any of you had good reason to need a LS/RS/DP switch or is the default DP behaviour perfectly fine for your use cases?

    Customs is never cheaper, especially if you want any simulacrum of quality
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • BrokeHobbyistBrokeHobbyist Joined: Posts: 10
    I figure that if I can make use of some of my family's tools, I could at least make a pretty decent case without being too out of pocket. Maybe end up spending around $200 instead of $250 for a true universal fight stick.
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    Not factoring costs such as wood, plexy, ect.
    You be spending about $45 just for Arcade parts, $90 for the PCB, 5 to 10 for the USB cable
    Thats 145 right there.

    You got $55 for your case materials plus any misc costs such as wiring, and such
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • BrokeHobbyistBrokeHobbyist Joined: Posts: 10
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Thats 145 right there.

    You got $55 for your case materials plus any misc costs such as wiring, and such

    You do have a point there, but it still seems that it'd still turn out to be the less inexpensive option in the end for a universal stick that's completely new and has the Sanwa Parts that I would want. I could watch ebay to get a stick with the parts I want and just swap out the PCB, but I also kind of want the noir or extended Vewlex layout which narrows my options a good deal. I'm still trying to figure out if it would end up being just as expensive, hence the questions. $2.50 a button might not seem a lot until you realize you'll be needing around 14 or so. I also thought the buttons came with their wiring, but our response here now has me thinking I was wrong, driving prices higher.

    I do thank you for your responses though, they're helping me realize the minutae that I missed in my initial thoughts and could have come back to bit me later on. At that cost there, I could just get a brand new Hori stick, and wait a paycheck or two before doing the PCB swap. I really like the thought of a self made stick, but I have little experience and that might end up meaning a few stupid mistakes might put me quite a bit over budget that I was planning. If you do have any other thoughts or advice, I'd love to hear it.
  • SoulWheatSoulWheat scrub club member Joined: Posts: 15
    If I were going to put a Seimitsu LS-40-01 into a RAP4, I'd need an SE mounting plate, right?
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Thats 145 right there.

    You got $55 for your case materials plus any misc costs such as wiring, and such

    You do have a point there, but it still seems that it'd still turn out to be the less inexpensive option in the end for a universal stick that's completely new and has the Sanwa Parts that I would want. I could watch ebay to get a stick with the parts I want and just swap out the PCB, but I also kind of want the noir or extended Vewlex layout which narrows my options a good deal. I'm still trying to figure out if it would end up being just as expensive, hence the questions. $2.50 a button might not seem a lot until you realize you'll be needing around 14 or so. I also thought the buttons came with their wiring, but our response here now has me thinking I was wrong, driving prices higher.

    I do thank you for your responses though, they're helping me realize the minutae that I missed in my initial thoughts and could have come back to bit me later on. At that cost there, I could just get a brand new Hori stick, and wait a paycheck or two before doing the PCB swap. I really like the thought of a self made stick, but I have little experience and that might end up meaning a few stupid mistakes might put me quite a bit over budget that I was planning. If you do have any other thoughts or advice, I'd love to hear it.

    If you haven't already, read slagcoin.com
    It's a bit outdated bit the fundamentals haven't changed
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • BrokeHobbyistBrokeHobbyist Joined: Posts: 10
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Thats 145 right there.

    You got $55 for your case materials plus any misc costs such as wiring, and such

    You do have a point there, but it still seems that it'd still turn out to be the less inexpensive option in the end for a universal stick that's completely new and has the Sanwa Parts that I would want. I could watch ebay to get a stick with the parts I want and just swap out the PCB, but I also kind of want the noir or extended Vewlex layout which narrows my options a good deal. I'm still trying to figure out if it would end up being just as expensive, hence the questions. $2.50 a button might not seem a lot until you realize you'll be needing around 14 or so. I also thought the buttons came with their wiring, but our response here now has me thinking I was wrong, driving prices higher.

    I do thank you for your responses though, they're helping me realize the minutae that I missed in my initial thoughts and could have come back to bit me later on. At that cost there, I could just get a brand new Hori stick, and wait a paycheck or two before doing the PCB swap. I really like the thought of a self made stick, but I have little experience and that might end up meaning a few stupid mistakes might put me quite a bit over budget that I was planning. If you do have any other thoughts or advice, I'd love to hear it.

    If you haven't already, read slagcoin.com
    It's a bit outdated bit the fundamentals haven't changed

    Seems I also forgot about the price of the connector. I was thinking of using a Neutrik passthrough so that if anything unfortunate happened, it would be what broke, instead of anything directly soldered to the PCB. I also realized that neither I nor any member of my family own a soldering iron so I would either have to just not use those buttons that would require direct soldering or end up eating that cost now for future projects. As for slagcoin, I read it over a little when first thinking about it, but it's always good to go back over it in case I missed or forgot something. I thought a custom done right could end up costing only a little more than a mass produced stick while being made of a lot more durable material, guess I overstimated myself or underestimated what all I'd need. I think a custom will have to wait until I have more time and hobby money than I do now to be doable. I guess instead I'll just find a stick that looks good and works on what I play most and do the swap later.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,370
    If you have little experience making custom sticks, you WILL goof during the process. It’s inevitable. If you want a project to pursue, and not just something universal to start digging into fighting games (and shooters) then a DIY stick is the way to go. Just remember to set your expectations accordingly.

    Oh, and fucking memorize slagcoin. Seriously...browsing is a waste of time.
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