Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

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  • BrokeHobbyistBrokeHobbyist Joined: Posts: 10
    Thanks, will definitely keep this in mind when I decide to try my hand at it.
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Thats 145 right there.

    You got $55 for your case materials plus any misc costs such as wiring, and such

    You do have a point there, but it still seems that it'd still turn out to be the less inexpensive option in the end for a universal stick that's completely new and has the Sanwa Parts that I would want. I could watch ebay to get a stick with the parts I want and just swap out the PCB, but I also kind of want the noir or extended Vewlex layout which narrows my options a good deal. I'm still trying to figure out if it would end up being just as expensive, hence the questions. $2.50 a button might not seem a lot until you realize you'll be needing around 14 or so. I also thought the buttons came with their wiring, but our response here now has me thinking I was wrong, driving prices higher.

    I do thank you for your responses though, they're helping me realize the minutae that I missed in my initial thoughts and could have come back to bit me later on. At that cost there, I could just get a brand new Hori stick, and wait a paycheck or two before doing the PCB swap. I really like the thought of a self made stick, but I have little experience and that might end up meaning a few stupid mistakes might put me quite a bit over budget that I was planning. If you do have any other thoughts or advice, I'd love to hear it.

    If you haven't already, read slagcoin.com
    It's a bit outdated bit the fundamentals haven't changed

    Seems I also forgot about the price of the connector. I was thinking of using a Neutrik passthrough so that if anything unfortunate happened, it would be what broke, instead of anything directly soldered to the PCB. I also realized that neither I nor any member of my family own a soldering iron so I would either have to just not use those buttons that would require direct soldering or end up eating that cost now for future projects. As for slagcoin, I read it over a little when first thinking about it, but it's always good to go back over it in case I missed or forgot something. I thought a custom done right could end up costing only a little more than a mass produced stick while being made of a lot more durable material, guess I overstimated myself or underestimated what all I'd need. I think a custom will have to wait until I have more time and hobby money than I do now to be doable. I guess instead I'll just find a stick that looks good and works on what I play most and do the swap later.

    A starter soldering Iron isn't too expensive, another tool I recommend is a multi meter
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • BrokeHobbyistBrokeHobbyist Joined: Posts: 10
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Thats 145 right there.

    You got $55 for your case materials plus any misc costs such as wiring, and such

    You do have a point there, but it still seems that it'd still turn out to be the less inexpensive option in the end for a universal stick that's completely new and has the Sanwa Parts that I would want. I could watch ebay to get a stick with the parts I want and just swap out the PCB, but I also kind of want the noir or extended Vewlex layout which narrows my options a good deal. I'm still trying to figure out if it would end up being just as expensive, hence the questions. $2.50 a button might not seem a lot until you realize you'll be needing around 14 or so. I also thought the buttons came with their wiring, but our response here now has me thinking I was wrong, driving prices higher.

    I do thank you for your responses though, they're helping me realize the minutae that I missed in my initial thoughts and could have come back to bit me later on. At that cost there, I could just get a brand new Hori stick, and wait a paycheck or two before doing the PCB swap. I really like the thought of a self made stick, but I have little experience and that might end up meaning a few stupid mistakes might put me quite a bit over budget that I was planning. If you do have any other thoughts or advice, I'd love to hear it.

    If you haven't already, read slagcoin.com
    It's a bit outdated bit the fundamentals haven't changed

    Seems I also forgot about the price of the connector. I was thinking of using a Neutrik passthrough so that if anything unfortunate happened, it would be what broke, instead of anything directly soldered to the PCB. I also realized that neither I nor any member of my family own a soldering iron so I would either have to just not use those buttons that would require direct soldering or end up eating that cost now for future projects. As for slagcoin, I read it over a little when first thinking about it, but it's always good to go back over it in case I missed or forgot something. I thought a custom done right could end up costing only a little more than a mass produced stick while being made of a lot more durable material, guess I overstimated myself or underestimated what all I'd need. I think a custom will have to wait until I have more time and hobby money than I do now to be doable. I guess instead I'll just find a stick that looks good and works on what I play most and do the swap later.

    A starter soldering Iron isn't too expensive, another tool I recommend is a multi meter

    Yeah, also necessary purchases, but I've decided to put it off for a while and just purchase a stick to start with. I thank you for all your advice so far and will keep everything I've learned here in mind when I have enough free time and hobby money to think about building one again.
  • EndRantEndRant Joined: Posts: 254
    hey guys, I recently got an ls40 which I love but I noticed a ton of dust from grinding on the gate. it's weird cause when I played on my hayabusa for years I saw so little if anything at all. is the ls40 made with softer plastic or something? anyone know?
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    EndRant wrote: »
    hey guys, I recently got an ls40 which I love but I noticed a ton of dust from grinding on the gate. it's weird cause when I played on my hayabusa for years I saw so little if anything at all. is the ls40 made with softer plastic or something? anyone know?

    LS-40s actuator is made from Nylon plastic.

    It's softer than the Hayabusa Actuator, but Nylon is usually have a very high resistance to wear and tear.
    Nylon last long as its not hard, it has just enough give that it absorbs impact rather than grind or crack.

    Maybe you got a older production run of the LS-40 and the plastic has aged.

    Actuator dust is more common with ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene)Actuators found with Sanwa and Hayabusa joysticks

    The only hard plastic for Actuators that is resistance to wear and tear is Polyoxymethylene (often goes by the brand name of Derlin)
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • EndRantEndRant Joined: Posts: 254
    @Darksakul thanks for the info. it shouldn't be old since it's pretty new according to arcadeshock. this is the one I got https://arcadeshock.com/products/seimitsu-ls-40-01-jaepo-2017-special-edition-dark-blue-or-deep-pink
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    EndRant wrote: »
    @Darksakul thanks for the info. it shouldn't be old since it's pretty new according to arcadeshock. this is the one I got https://arcadeshock.com/products/seimitsu-ls-40-01-jaepo-2017-special-edition-dark-blue-or-deep-pink

    Only other thing I can think of is the plastic could be from a bad batch?
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • EndRantEndRant Joined: Posts: 254
    yeah, that's what I'm thinking. thanks for the help.
  • WritersBlahWritersBlah Joined: Posts: 3
    Hi there. Kind of a noob question, but I recently started modifying the stock JLF in my MadCatz fightstick with an octagonal gate and a 0.5mm LT oversized Delrin actuator from Paradise Arcade Shop. I really love the modification, as I feel considerably more accurate than I did with the stock parts. However, I'm not sure if an issue I'm experiencing is in my head or not, but I feel like I have to put in more force to move my stick than I did before.

    If I am interested in making the stick easier to move, would I be more interested in getting a custom spring from PAS, or installing a Cherry microswitch mod? Apparently, microswitch mods are meant for lessening the actuation force required to register a direction on the stick, if I did my research correctly? Just to clarify, what is the physical difference in getting a spring mod versus a microswitch mod versus getting both?
  • t_rexdext_rexdex Joined: Posts: 11
    I recently purchased a PS360+ and it is on 1.2 firmware, how can I update the pcb if I do not have access/ can not find the Atmel FLIP software?
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,369
    edited January 7
    However, I'm not sure if an issue I'm experiencing is in my head or not, but I feel like I have to put in more force to move my stick than I did before.
    While changing the pivot point (fulcrum) of a lever can give a perceivable increase (or decrease) in actuation pressure, this is simply not the case with going with just a slightly wider actuator. So, sorry to say this—but yes—it’s just in your head. Perhaps one could argue the change in restrictor gate, but I’ll stick to my guns, stating that only a change in shaft mount height or spring tension will change that feeling you’ve described.
    If I am interested in making the stick easier to move, would I be more interested in getting a custom spring from PAS, or installing a Cherry microswitch mod? Apparently, microswitch mods are meant for lessening the actuation force required to register a direction on the stick, if I did my research correctly? Just to clarify, what is the physical difference in getting a spring mod versus a microswitch mod versus getting both?

    A spring mod is typically done to increase the pressure needed to pivot the joystick shaft towards an actuation point (be it either a microswitch or an optical sensor). Once you get to a microswitch tab, it also has its own measure of force to actuate—which, on a Cherry mod, is slightly less than the stock SW-68 Switch on a JLF.

    Usually people complain that the movement and actuation is too loose on a JLF. I personally go with a PAS .5mm Delrin actuator (not LT), and a stiffer 1.5lb spring on all my JLF-equipped sticks. It’s got the right balance for me. The stock JLF spring is rated at .9lbs. See if PAS has a lighter tension version than that and go from there. I’m not sure they carry anything like that though, @WritersBlah
    Post edited by jopamo on
  • WritersBlahWritersBlah Joined: Posts: 3
    jopamo wrote: »
    While changing the pivot point (fulcrum) of a lever can give a perceivable increase (or decrease) in actuation pressure, this is simply not the case with going with just a slightly wider actuator. So, sorry to say this—but yes—it’s just in your head. Perhaps one could argue the change in restrictor gate, but I’ll stick to my guns, stating that only a change in shaft mount height or spring tension will change that feeling you’ve described.

    Ah. Well, knowledge is knowledge, I suppose. I could venture to guess that perhaps the reason I'm feeling more force is due to the actuation being shorter leading to put more up-front force to move the stick versus naturally moving the stick to the further actuation point already having force behind it due to acceleration and whatnot. It could just entirely be in my head though.
    jopamo wrote: »
    A spring mod is typical done to increase the pressure needed to pivot the joystick shaft towards an actuation point (be it either a microswitch or an optical sensor). Once you get to a microswitch tab, it also has it’s own measure of force to actuate—which, on a Cherry mod, is slightly less than the stock SW-68 Switch on a JLF.

    Usually people complain that the movement and actuation is too loose on a JLF. I personally go with a PAS .5mm Delrin actuator (not LT), and a stiffer 1.5lb spring on all my JLF-equipped sticks. It’s got the right balance for me. The stock JLF spring is rated at .9lbs. See if PAS has a lighter tension version than that and go from there. I’m not sure they carry anything like that though, @WritersBlah

    PAS does carry one lighter-tension custom spring, seen here: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/springs/638-paradise-jlf-spring.html . However, going back to my stick, I'm actually not sure how much the spring is going to solve. Thing is, once I've moved the stick past a microswitch and I hear the "click" registering a direction, wiggling the stick back and forth within that zone isn't really a problem. I suppose the only way I'd really be able to test this out would be to order the light spring to test with the stick, and if the force to move still feels similar, then I could switch out the stick to the Cherry mod. It's entirely possible once I do that though that I may start feeling the desire for a stronger spring. It's really hard to tell, and wish I could test this out somehow without committing myself to purchasing a lot of "what-if" products. I'm not sure what PAS's return policy is, but paying $7 for shipping every time I'm dissatisfied with my experience seems like it'd add up over time. Guess I was just trying to see if there was a way to save myself that many purchases.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,369
    Then get the lighter spring AND the Cherry mod. Mix and match and decide based on your experience. Chalk up the expense to finding your own inner Goldilocks. Most people just stick with the stock button and stick feel. If you want to fine tune things, ya gotta pay to play.
  • Dime_on_SRKDime_on_SRK Joined: Posts: 5
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,369
    Can anyone tell me what I need from the Razer Panthera part below to wire to my brook UFB?

    Did you buy the UFB yet? Because if not, then just buy the following:

    https://arcadeshock.com/products/ez-mod-for-razer-panthera-w-brook-universal-fighting-board-kit-w-soldered-headers
  • Dime_on_SRKDime_on_SRK Joined: Posts: 5
    jopamo wrote: »
    Can anyone tell me what I need from the Razer Panthera part below to wire to my brook UFB?

    Did you buy the UFB yet? Because if not, then just buy the following:

    https://arcadeshock.com/products/ez-mod-for-razer-panthera-w-brook-universal-fighting-board-kit-w-soldered-headers
    Yes, I bought the non ezmod one because my cable broke and it reuses the cable. Everything but that one piece is wired up and ready to go.
  • WindyManWindyMan Actually Joined: 12 Years Ago Joined: Posts: 9
    WindyMan wrote: »
    But what would be really nice for my build would be the PS-14-DN-C Solid Body buttons, also with the clear cap for artwork inserts. I'm going for a classic look and I don't think fully clear buttons can do that. Not to mention that I don't care at all for the brightness level that an illuminated clear button gives off. I want something more subtle.

    I'd like to know if anyone has experience with solid body/clear cap buttons, and whether anyone has tried to position the LED so that the clear cap portion of the button is illuminated through the solid housing of the button and how that might look. I believe there is a hole on the screw portion of the solid body that might let an LED light shine through into where the clear cap is, which would bounce up through to the top of the clear cap and achieve the level of lighting I want. That would be the most ideal solution for me.

    Answering my own question for posterity.

    9p2BPW8.jpg

    This is exactly the effect I was hoping for. Seems like I'll need to enclose the screw portion and the led itself to prevent too muck light from leaking out, but other than it's perfect. Hopefully someone somewhere in the internet-future will benefit from this information.
    If SRK brings back Street Fighter smilies (qRpasbj.gifL2fGBNZ.gif) I'll bring back FinestKO.com. Deal? Deal.
  • mikeoharamikeohara V.S.O.P.C. Joined: Posts: 303 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    t_rexdex wrote: »
    I recently purchased a PS360+ and it is on 1.2 firmware, how can I update the pcb if I do not have access/ can not find the Atmel FLIP software?

    The link in the PS360+ firmware manual redirects to http://www.microchip.com/

    In the search box, you can type Flip and it should be one of the first links you can click on. The newest versions of the program are located there.
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 148
    Do Brook PCBs (PS3/PS4 board and UFB) not work on PS4 pro? I've tried both on different PS4 pros on multiple occasions and the console doesn't detect it at all, but the exact same boards work fine on regular PS4s (and computers). Do I have to do anything special?
  • LLeg3ndLLeg3nd Always Eating Joined: Posts: 288
    blankaex wrote: »
    Do Brook PCBs (PS3/PS4 board and UFB) not work on PS4 pro? I've tried both on different PS4 pros on multiple occasions and the console doesn't detect it at all, but the exact same boards work fine on regular PS4s (and computers). Do I have to do anything special?

    The PS4 Pro doesn't supply enough power to the front USB ports for the Brook PCBs to work. SO you will either have A) Get a Powered USB hub or B) Plug the Brook USB to the back of the PS4 Pro's USB port.
    twitch.tv/relevantjohn
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,369
    edited January 14
    I played KOFIV last night for three hours with my UFB-equipped TE.
    Guess what was being used? The front-left USB port on a PS4 Pro.

    I just plugged my other stick with an original Brook PS3/4 board and played in SFV for two matches.

    @LLeg3nd does the low-power thing happen when both front ports are used?
    @blankaex Have you updated your firmware to the latest?
  • LLeg3ndLLeg3nd Always Eating Joined: Posts: 288
    edited January 14
    jopamo wrote: »
    I played KOFIV last night for three hours with my UFB-equipped TE.
    Guess what was being used? The front-left USB port on a PS4 Pro.

    I just plugged my other stick with an original Brook PS3/4 board and played in SFV for two matches.

    @LLeg3nd does the low-power thing happen when both front ports are used?
    @blankaex Have you updated your firmware to the latest?

    Nope, only thing i have plugged in is just the Brook PS4 Audio Fighting Board (micro USB). It's the same with my friend's Pro as well.
    twitch.tv/relevantjohn
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 148
    LLeg3nd wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    Do Brook PCBs (PS3/PS4 board and UFB) not work on PS4 pro? I've tried both on different PS4 pros on multiple occasions and the console doesn't detect it at all, but the exact same boards work fine on regular PS4s (and computers). Do I have to do anything special?

    The PS4 Pro doesn't supply enough power to the front USB ports for the Brook PCBs to work. SO you will either have A) Get a Powered USB hub or B) Plug the Brook USB to the back of the PS4 Pro's USB port.

    Ah that's how it is, gotcha.
    jopamo wrote: »
    I played KOFIV last night for three hours with my UFB-equipped TE.
    Guess what was being used? The front-left USB port on a PS4 Pro.

    I just plugged my other stick with an original Brook PS3/4 board and played in SFV for two matches.

    @LLeg3nd does the low-power thing happen when both front ports are used?
    @blankaex Have you updated your firmware to the latest?

    Yeah, latest firmware on both always.
  • Grizzly_TitanGrizzly_Titan Joined: Posts: 2
    Sorry for the probable dumb question, but would anyone know or would anyone be able to point in the direction of where to find out what the tension of the spring is in a Qanba Dragon?
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,369
    edited January 15
    LLeg3nd wrote: »
    Nope, only thing i have plugged in is just the Brook PS4 Audio Fighting Board (micro USB). It's the same with my friend's Pro as well.

    Interesting. I have sticks with the little square PS3/PS4 board that’s a generation older, sans audio... and sticks with UFB’s. Both types of sticks work on the Pro’s front ports with zero problems. Perhaps it’s something with those particular board models. I wonder if the USB breakout board with the audio port might be the source of the issue. Have you tested everything with sticks with other Brook boards?
  • shoto1699shoto1699 Joined: Posts: 5
    Are there any recommended mods for my Hrap4? I'm planning on playing a lot of Dragon Ball FighterZ. So far it feels like some of my movements don't register.
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    jopamo wrote: »
    LLeg3nd wrote: »
    Nope, only thing i have plugged in is just the Brook PS4 Audio Fighting Board (micro USB). It's the same with my friend's Pro as well.

    Interesting. I have sticks with the little square PS3/PS4 board that’s a generation older, sans audio... and sticks with UFB’s. Both types of sticks work on the Pro’s front ports with zero problems. Perhaps it’s something with those particular board models. I wonder if the USB breakout board with the audio port might be the source of the issue. Have you tested everything with sticks with other Brook boards?

    On Many Sony consoles, Some computer motherboards, and so on the USB host is a little stingy with their power requests. They only want to give so many amps to devices.
    This is actually a safety feature to prevent the overloading of power delivery on the motherboard.

    I seen it happen on the Original Launch PS4s, most models of the PS3, and the slim PS2s. I also see this happen on Some PC motherboards and some macs.
    For a PC, if its compatible the easy solution is to use a USB 3.0 port instead of a 2.0 port. On consoles the work around is a powered Hub.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,369
    edited January 15
    Yeah, but why is this only happening PS4+ Audio boards? Or is it just some systems that are power-stingy?
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    jopamo wrote: »
    Yeah, but why is this only happening PS4+ Audio boards? Or is it just some systems that are power-stingy?
    Many systems are just power stingy by default. There only so much power thats allowed to be given with standard USB 2.0 protocols.
    And its up to the individual USB Controller on the motherboard of that system to decide how much of that protocol's power rules actually apply.

    USB 3.0 does not have this issue, as it's built for taking request up to +15 volts on whats typically a +5 volt bus with the more than 3 times the current as well.
    (but a device has to request the extra power).

    Audio amp on the Audio boards require slightly more watts than a typical USB board, and many USB hosts are very power-stingy.
    With the USB handshake between Host and device, the device request a certain amount of watts, and the Host can approve or disprove.

    We actually see this issue all the time with Sticks with LEDs in them. It also might be (but highly unlikely) the USB encoder on the UFB Audio only requesting power for the UFB USB functions and not the Audio side.

    Using arbitrary and probability wrong numbers here, but this is to illustrate whats going on.

    Senario 1 (unlikely Senario)
    Its like I am a USB Encoder on a UFB board, I need 400 milliamps to do my job and the USB host only gives enough with a max of 500 milliamps, and the Audio side wants 130 for it self.
    The USB host sees my request for 400 and not give any more, but because of the Audio there isn't enough power being delivered.

    Scenario 2 (most likely scenario)
    I am a USB encoder, I asked for 530 but the host only gives out a Max of 500 and told me I am Shit out of luck.

    With a USB Powered Hub Senario
    The USB Hub "It's cool boss I got the power requests, you just handle the data that I am repeating to you"
    USB Host "Copy that, you are cleared hot"

    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • PenPen Joined: Posts: 9
    Alright PS3 Madcatz TE Fightstick item #8838, windows 10 machine with z170x ultra gaming motherboard i7 chipset, i want to play DBZ and i just can't get it to work.

    Shows up as PC USB wired stick 8838 but wont take any input commands, the way I understand it this stick is one of the original ones and jsut won't work do i need to buy a new stick or change the joystick board or what ?
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    Pen wrote: »
    Alright PS3 Madcatz TE Fightstick item #8838, windows 10 machine with z170x ultra gaming motherboard i7 chipset, i want to play DBZ and i just can't get it to work.

    Shows up as PC USB wired stick 8838 but wont take any input commands, the way I understand it this stick is one of the original ones and jsut won't work do i need to buy a new stick or change the joystick board or what ?

    If your TE is one of the originals, the OG (Round 1) or Round 2 sticks, then there are incompatibility issues with many PC motherboards.
    The issue was reported as mostly with non-Intel chip sets on mother boards, but later Intel boards has the issue anyways due to most boards abandoning the old USB 1.1 UHCI protocols
    The Old TE is completely incompatible with USB 3.0/3.1

    It could be also a unrelated problem that DBFZ could be Xinput only and Every Model Mad Catz PS3 stick supports only Dinput.

    You are bets off changing out the board inside with something compatible
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • PenPen Joined: Posts: 9
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Pen wrote: »
    Alright PS3 Madcatz TE Fightstick item #8838, windows 10 machine with z170x ultra gaming motherboard i7 chipset, i want to play DBZ and i just can't get it to work.

    Shows up as PC USB wired stick 8838 but wont take any input commands, the way I understand it this stick is one of the original ones and jsut won't work do i need to buy a new stick or change the joystick board or what ?

    If your TE is one of the originals, the OG (Round 1) or Round 2 sticks, then there are incompatibility issues with many PC motherboards.
    The issue was reported as mostly with non-Intel chip sets on mother boards, but later Intel boards has the issue anyways due to most boards abandoning the old USB 1.1 UHCI protocols
    The Old TE is completely incompatible with USB 3.0/3.1

    It could be also a unrelated problem that DBFZ could be Xinput only and Every Model Mad Catz PS3 stick supports only Dinput.

    You are bets off changing out the board inside with something compatible

    what do you suggest for changing the the board inside, i have no experience with that, but from what i have seen its pretty straight forward.
  • DubonDubon Joined: Posts: 508
    It depends on your Solderingskills and your budget. Cheapest option is brook ps3/ps4 fighting board witch can be found for 35€/40$. The you have the brook ps3/4 breakout, ps4+ audio and universal fight board, witch are all more expensive, but require less soldering. If you want your home button and turbo buttons to work, or if you want to use the existing usb cable, youre going to have to do some soldering though.
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,683
    Dubon wrote: »
    It depends on your Solderingskills and your budget. Cheapest option is brook ps3/ps4 fighting board witch can be found for 35€/40$. The you have the brook ps3/4 breakout, ps4+ audio and universal fight board, witch are all more expensive, but require less soldering. If you want your home button and turbo buttons to work, or if you want to use the existing usb cable, youre going to have to do some soldering though.

    This
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • bashirkashmiribashirkashmiri Joined: Posts: 61
    Hello people, now I have time again I've resurrected an old project again on a 2 player stick. However the consoles I now own have changed.

    What multi console non solder PCB can I implement which will allow me to use my stick on a Dreamcast, OG Xbox, Snes mini classic aka Wii port connection, PC and PS3 please?
  • PenPen Joined: Posts: 9
    edited January 16
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Dubon wrote: »
    It depends on your Solderingskills and your budget. Cheapest option is brook ps3/ps4 fighting board witch can be found for 35€/40$. The you have the brook ps3/4 breakout, ps4+ audio and universal fight board, witch are all more expensive, but require less soldering. If you want your home button and turbo buttons to work, or if you want to use the existing usb cable, youre going to have to do some soldering though.

    This

    I don't mind soldering, so is this https://www.focusattack.com/ist-pre-installed-brook-ps3-ps4-pc-fight-board-pcb-kit/ what i need and the best place to get it? or is https://www.focusattack.com/brook-ps4-fighting-board-with-audio-v2017-ps4-ps3-pc/ teh winner. I'm in hawaii and hoping to get this thing working by the 26th.
  • DubonDubon Joined: Posts: 508
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