Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

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  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 25,061
    t_rexdex wrote: »
    Is there somebody still making/selling te hitbox panels? I don't see the option on tek innovations or jasens.

    TE parts is a dying market.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • t_rexdext_rexdex Joined: Posts: 17
    I know, just trying to see if I could find something before it's all gone.
  • sephi22sephi22 Flowchart Fuerte Joined: Posts: 122
    Is this a good monitor for fighting games? LG 25UM58-P
    https://www.amazon.com/LG-25UM58-P-25-Inch-21-UltraWide/dp/B01BV1XB2K

    According to displaylag, it has input lag of 09ms.
    Is there any other monitor that's the go to for fighting games? I'm looking for something less than $200
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,422
    edited January 19
    Pretty much all fighting games rock either 4:3 or 16:9 ratio video output. Why go 21:9 ultra-wide?
  • t_rexdext_rexdex Joined: Posts: 17
    How do I remove all of the te2+ drivers from my computer? I'm trying to get my stick to do xinput on my laptop but the tray icon won't give me the option to switch hid and xinput. The installer worked on my desktop.
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 25,061
    t_rexdex wrote: »
    How do I remove all of the te2+ drivers from my computer? I'm trying to get my stick to do xinput on my laptop but the tray icon won't give me the option to switch hid and xinput. The installer worked on my desktop.

    Use a tool like Revno Uninstall
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • SpitefaceSpiteface Joined: Posts: 3
    Was registered here years ago, had to sign back up again. Got some questions, if this is the right place to ask. Can someone clear up for me exactly what plexi & artwork options I'm looking for regarding my recently-acquired PS4 TE2+?

    I managed to get a TE2+ for a decent price (only £10 more than the TES+), and would like some custom artwork (going to get some clear buttons to accommodate this, too). I've decided to get a new plexi with the button labels etched into it. I've somehow managed to confuse myself looking through the options on Focus Attack's site (International shipping seems more reasonable than elsewhere, I live in the UK).

    Mine appears to be very similar to the SFV Ryu version touchpad and all, but with a more generic black monochrome graphic like this. The plexi is thinner on the edges, allowing it to be fairly flush with the bezel, the buttons have those spacers on them, as both plexi and artwork is intended to fit around the buttons. Going by the information on Focus Attack, I think I would likely need:

    This artwork print: https://www.focusattack.com/artwork-print-and-cut-for-madcatz-t-e-2-t-e-2-generation-1-1-16-adjusted/

    & this Plexi: https://www.focusattack.com/custom-etch-and-cut-plexi-cover-for-madcatz-t-e-2-t-e-2-generation-1-1-16-adjusted/

    Assuming these are the right ones, does then mean I would no longer need the spacer rings on the buttons, which would now snap into the plexi & panel?

    I'm hoping to place an order soon, so I would really appreciate some clarification on what I would need here. Focus Attack had an article on it, but I didn't think it was clear enough.

    Thanks!
  • NecrotrophicNecrotrophic Does not like SJWs or the alt right Joined: Posts: 6,001
    My stick has an issue where if I hold down back (p1 side) sometimes my character will walk back a bit. Seems I need to replace my JLF in my te2+.

    The question is, do I need to buy one for the ps4 or do all jlfs work? This is the one I was looking at, if possible I would like it to be exactly the same as the one that came with my TE2+

    https://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-jlf-tp-8yt-joystick/
    Northeast PA
    570 Necro
  • Infected_ReconInfected_Recon Joined: Posts: 6
    Does anybody have a list of every fighting game on the ps4 that supports legacy sticks?
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 25,061
    My stick has an issue where if I hold down back (p1 side) sometimes my character will walk back a bit. Seems I need to replace my JLF in my te2+.

    The question is, do I need to buy one for the ps4 or do all jlfs work? This is the one I was looking at, if possible I would like it to be exactly the same as the one that came with my TE2+

    https://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-jlf-tp-8yt-joystick/

    There no specific JLF for the TE2, Hori (back when they used Sanwa parts), Mad Catz, and everyone else used the same JLF.
    Yeah there some differences how different variations of how the JLF are put together, but for the most part they are so nuanced and such that the different variations make no difference.

    JK030_term_UK.gif

    Whats missing in the chart above the TP section of the part number is that the JLF has the TP-MA board. There was a version that didn't had the board and instead had just 4 loose Microswitches held in by just the gate.
    It was used in Arcade sticks that were not common ground and some arcade cabs where it was easier to not adapt the wiring to a 5-pin harness.

    Only other variations missing are the Silent and Optical variants.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • sunny84sunny84 Joined: Posts: 49
    Looking for retail sticks that have a slanted case for desktop play. I'm know the Namco and earlier HRAP's do.. anyone know of any others... Possibly current gen?
  • ShiroZXShiroZX Joined: Posts: 93
    SCV stick for the xbox 360 (same model as rap n) has a smaller start button. Can I replace that button? Is it a 24mm or bigger?
    I've also been noticing some of my screws are feeling looser. What can I use or do to maintain them tight so they won't fall down?
    27292066_1938761809484679_588963722_n.jpg?oh=4f4eb9802e8061089ca062a8f9be6f15&oe=5A6883F9
  • STEZO_ONESTEZO_ONE FLUSH TOWN Joined: Posts: 521
    ShiroZX wrote: »
    SCV stick for the xbox 360 (same model as rap n) has a smaller start button. Can I replace that button? Is it a 24mm or bigger?
    I've also been noticing some of my screws are feeling looser. What can I use or do to maintain them tight so they won't fall down?

    If screws are feeling looser, then you should tighten them. Yeah thats a 24mm and yes you can easily replace that button.

  • STEZO_ONESTEZO_ONE FLUSH TOWN Joined: Posts: 521
    sunny84 wrote: »
    Looking for retail sticks that have a slanted case for desktop play. I'm know the Namco and earlier HRAP's do.. anyone know of any others... Possibly current gen?

    Dont think so. I think most arcade sticks now are geared towards lap play. Cant think of any current gen or last gen sticks that were slanted .
  • t_rexdext_rexdex Joined: Posts: 17
    If I have a UFB and a PS360+ can I have more than one wire in any of the pcbs terminals? Or would I have to connect the pcbs with a 20 pin cable?
  • Infected_ReconInfected_Recon Joined: Posts: 6
    What's the difference between the different versions of the sanwa silent jlf?
  • sunny84sunny84 Joined: Posts: 49
    STEZO_ONE wrote: »
    sunny84 wrote: »
    Looking for retail sticks that have a slanted case for desktop play. I'm know the Namco and earlier HRAP's do.. anyone know of any others... Possibly current gen?

    Dont think so. I think most arcade sticks now are geared towards lap play. Cant think of any current gen or last gen sticks that were slanted .

    damn...it would make sense that more exist as a lot of ppl play on desktop/steam. I guess I'll have to get a custom made possibly. Was hoping to find one for the magenta but the Namco case is too small to mod and the old HRAP'S I'm not sure if they are too high for desktop. An in b/w would have been great....
  • AceMagaseAceMagase Joined: Posts: 15
    Anyone know of a brick & mortar store that sells .110" female disconnects?
  • SpitefaceSpiteface Joined: Posts: 3
    Spiteface wrote: »
    (rambling nonsense about plexi and stuff)

    Thanks!

    No one answered me, but I think I'm on the right track. 1/16" it is...

    Now to decide on art...
  • AceMagaseAceMagase Joined: Posts: 15
    Spiteface wrote: »
    Spiteface wrote: »
    (rambling nonsense about plexi and stuff)

    Thanks!

    No one answered me, but I think I'm on the right track. 1/16" it is...

    Now to decide on art...

    From focusattack: "Tests performed on both first and next generation hardware confirmed that a 1/16" could still work with them. We are offering a 1/16" thick acrylic as an alternative, as unlike thinner plexi, will handle etching and comes in additional colors. Most notably, the button holes are sized so that the plexi rests underneath the plexi. This approach is a more common for plexi installation. Keep in mind: if you choose this plexi, and own a more recent Type N model, you will not use the button spacers any more. The spacers were designed to raise the button 1mm from the control panel surface.

    In this case, the buttons will rest atop the plexi. The Generation 1 1/16" plexi fits below the existing border."

    Seems right according to the above info. You have a Gen 2 which comes with a 1/40" plexi and spacers for the buttons. If you go with the 1/16" you will no longer need the spacers.
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 25,061
    AceMagase wrote: »
    Anyone know of a brick & mortar store that sells .110" female disconnects?

    Hardware and automotive stores, electronic hobby stores (i.e. Frys, Microcenter, Ect)
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • SpitefaceSpiteface Joined: Posts: 3
    AceMagase wrote: »
    Spiteface wrote: »
    Spiteface wrote: »
    (rambling nonsense about plexi and stuff)

    Thanks!

    No one answered me, but I think I'm on the right track. 1/16" it is...

    Now to decide on art...

    From focusattack: "Tests performed on both first and next generation hardware confirmed that a 1/16" could still work with them. We are offering a 1/16" thick acrylic as an alternative, as unlike thinner plexi, will handle etching and comes in additional colors. Most notably, the button holes are sized so that the plexi rests underneath the plexi. This approach is a more common for plexi installation. Keep in mind: if you choose this plexi, and own a more recent Type N model, you will not use the button spacers any more. The spacers were designed to raise the button 1mm from the control panel surface.

    In this case, the buttons will rest atop the plexi. The Generation 1 1/16" plexi fits below the existing border."

    Seems right according to the above info. You have a Gen 2 which comes with a 1/40" plexi and spacers for the buttons. If you go with the 1/16" you will no longer need the spacers.

    Thought I was on the right track. The thing is, I did lift up the Bezel to see what was going on with my plexi, and while there's spacers, it's the type that's thinner around the edge to make the plexi flush with the bezel. thicker than 1/40. I managed to confuse myself over that, but thought I might be on the right track with the 1/16 plexi. Just needed confirmation, which you gave me. Much happier to do away with the spacers, seems like it will be more secure if the buttons are helping hold it down.
  • LuppyLuptoniumLuppyLuptonium Entertainer Supreme. Joined: Posts: 240
    Greetings everyone,

    I have a Zero Delay PCB and am thinking of upgrading to a Brook, but I have a Happ stick. Looking at this one https://www.focusattack.com/ist-pre-installed-brook-ps3-ps4-pc-fight-board-pcb-kit/

    I noticed for certain Joysticks it is recommending wires from my PCB. This makes me assume that the plug for the Joystick on mine will be the same on this, but you know what they say about assuming (and I am not seeing the Happ wire listed in recommendations). I am just looking for if my assumption is right and that this would save me a little work at having to rewire the joystick itself.
    I wish I had a pencil thin mustache...
  • StoneSarge89StoneSarge89 Joined: Posts: 1
    edited February 2
    Hey guys, just bought a faulty TE2+ from my corner of Europe for $40. It looks very well, like hardly ever used, internals never been tampered with, that red glue was still there and untouched.
    However the cost was due to the fact that the joystick is stuck on up (as a function, not physically). I tested it around on PS4 and noticed that besides the stick constantly pressing up (left and right work too but continuous ups continue), all buttons work expect for Square, Triangle and R1. L1 works perfectly tough along with all the other buttons on it.

    I bought it suspecting 99% chance of failed PCB and I liked the price because I can stick a Brook UFB and have it play on both my xbox & PS4 for under retail of a Razer Panthera.

    All I want to know is if someone sees another problem in there apart from the PCB or should I be perfect with a new brook board.
    Because in case I need other parts, I would rather buy it all from one shop. Nobody really sells the EZ Mod Brook UFB in Europe from my knowledge and shipping from the US is something I would rather just pay once for :)
  • unaigalderunaigalder Joined: Posts: 84
    edited February 2
    Mortal kombat ps3 tournament working fine with mac or need drivers?
  • JackalsJackals Joined: Posts: 44
    Hey guys, just bought a faulty TE2+ from my corner of Europe for $40. It looks very well, like hardly ever used, internals never been tampered with, that red glue was still there and untouched.
    However the cost was due to the fact that the joystick is stuck on up (as a function, not physically). I tested it around on PS4 and noticed that besides the stick constantly pressing up (left and right work too but continuous ups continue), all buttons work expect for Square, Triangle and R1. L1 works perfectly tough along with all the other buttons on it.

    I bought it suspecting 99% chance of failed PCB and I liked the price because I can stick a Brook UFB and have it play on both my xbox & PS4 for under retail of a Razer Panthera.

    All I want to know is if someone sees another problem in there apart from the PCB or should I be perfect with a new brook board.
    Because in case I need other parts, I would rather buy it all from one shop. Nobody really sells the EZ Mod Brook UFB in Europe from my knowledge and shipping from the US is something I would rather just pay once for :)

    You may still experience on the button of the top panel pcb aka PS, lock/unlock, LS-DP-RS, L3 and R3 should be choose to wire them to the brook pcb.

    PM me if you want more info
  • ManaSamaSRKManaSamaSRK Joined: Posts: 56
    Hi. I bought a brooks PS3/PS4 preinstalled fightboard pcb on focus attack about a year ago, and I've been having constant issues with it ever since. My main issue currently is that whenever I happen to move my joystick, I'll randomly get the 3xp or 3xk buttons to activate, which are not connected to any button on my stick, as Im using a 6 button layout. My question is, is there a way to fix this? Should I buy a new spare harness from focus attack? Is this an issue with the PCB itself? Should I cut the 3xp and 3xk buttons (if this can solve the issue)?
    Sheen, winning..swag PSN - ManaSama93
  • MajinBuukakeMajinBuukake Joined: Posts: 13
    so im wondering about what connector i need to buy for my HORI RAP Silent Hayabusa stick.
    I previously cut the connector off to solder it to another stick but I want to put it back.
    Im pretty certain it'll be either one of these
    https://paradisearcadeshop.com/kk-250mm-equivalent/1985-kk-254-254mm-equivalent-6-connector-female.html
    https://paradisearcadeshop.com/kk-396-equivalent/1973-kk-396-156-equivalent-6-connector-female.html

    since im in australia and itll take a while so just hoping someone could clarify for me before i buy these and wait for them to get here.
  • MairusuMairusu Joined: Posts: 1
    Hello there folks, currently trying to build my bartop for kicks. I've decided on a Seimitsu LS-40 stick but would like to mount an octogonal restrictor on it, similar to the Sanwa GT-Y (that is, not "floaty", well-define angles that don't go much in the way but give an effect somewhat similar to a Gamecube joystick).

    Any idea where I could find that? I can 3D print stuff if needed.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,422
    edited February 7
    Hey @Mairusu

    https://www.focusattack.com/kowal-ls-32-octopus-octagonal-restrictor-guide/

    LS-40 and LS-32 share restrictor gate measurements. Be careful with this thing though, as a review states that it marrs the actuator over time. Have you had a lot of experience with square (standard) gates? If not, I suggest you just give the standard square gates some time. I—like I’m sure many here—went with octagonal gates due to the initial awkwardness of a square gate (at least to those used to Suzo Happ/IL “Murican-style” controls). However, I—like I’m sure many here—have reverted back to square. It’s overall more efficient. I suggest you give it a (thorough) go before ordering that Kowal crap.

    octagon_gate.pngsquare_gate2.png

    For more info:
    http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/restrictors.html
    Post edited by jopamo on
  • ShiroZXShiroZX Joined: Posts: 93
    jopamo wrote: »
    However, I—like I’m sure many here—have reverted back to square. It’s overall more efficient.

    I second this. My first (used) stick had a octagonal restrictor. It felt good, at the time, I thought that was the best restrictor. Then bought a brand new stick tat obviously comes with square gate. And I don't notice any difference, I can do any input with no problem, and it's even better for dp inputs. I'll never change to any other restrictor.
  • FlyFly Joined: Posts: 34
    Hey guys, I've been trying to find a D plate to mount a GX 12 onto. I know Jasen makes a kit, but I'm starting to think that he makes the plates himself because I cannot find one at all :|
  • BlocksWithFaceBlocksWithFace Joined: Posts: 21
    I tried stepping into the octagon. Stayed in for about 2 weeks and decided I liked being a square more. Turns out it didn't help my QCF and Z motions be more accurate as I thought it would.
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 25,061
    Key to using a Square Gate is doing L shape movements,
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,621
    Can an LS-32 with S plate be installed in a Qanba Obsidian without issues?
  • sunny84sunny84 Joined: Posts: 49
    Also when using square gate for FIGHTERS riding the gate sucks. I can imagine for games like MVC with constant super jumps etc it's hard not to. But generally you shouldn't be doin it, it just makes your reactions slower/return to neutral awkward/inputs inaccurate....I remember when I first started fixing my bad stick habits(no homo), the biggest improvement in my actual game came from just relying on the feedback from the switches and making my motions smaller. It's definitely something you have to be aware of till it becomes second nature to not rely on the gates. I haven't found much of a difference playing on octagonal as well after practicing this.
  • ChrnocideChrnocide Joined: Posts: 532
    Hey guys, I have a question about plexi panels.

    Recently I bought a plexi panel from focusattack. The panel I got was a little different than what I was used to.. a little more bendable and rubbery. I think this has to do with making the plexi more shock absorbent, which is cool but now there are places on my stick that are raised. Unfortunately when messing with buttons and trying to get it to settle the plexi actually ripped so now I'll need to buy a new panel.

    Years ago I purchased a panel from arts hobbies (http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/) and the type of plexi I received was hard plastic. Yes, it's probably much more susceptible to cracking but I'm very careful with my sticks and I'd much prefer that vs. the bendable plexi I recently purchased. So my question is, does anyone know if arts hobbies also transitioned into the more flexible/shock proof kind of plexi? Or do they still use hard plastic? I submitted the question last week but I haven't gotten a response yet.

    Thanks in advance!
  • GhoostWhaatGhoostWhaat Joined: Posts: 6
    I need help in getting a legit Arcade Stick for the Dreamcast. I am complete novice on the subject.

    I'm a very casual 2D fighting fan, but really geek out over hardware like proper arcade stick set up. I've been wanting to collect some of the King of Fighters games for Dreamcast, but my worry is that the best official arcade stick (Agetec) does not have a layout which suits a traditional SNK layout.

    Someone just recently mentioned to me a PS360+, which (as my simple mind gets it) is some type of board you can hook up to arcade sticks to allow them to work with Dreamcast and other systems. In searching though, it looks like this thing is sold out everywhere.

    How does this thing work? Is there anyway for someone like me (with absolutely zero electronics/DIY/building knowledge or skill) to utilize this to use a legit stick with the Dreamcast? Does anyone just sell custom sticks that are compatible with Dreamcast?

    Thank you for any help!
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,422
    edited February 8
    A HKT-7300. Accept no substitutes.
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 25,061
    BolSadguy wrote: »
    Can an LS-32 with S plate be installed in a Qanba Obsidian without issues?

    I don't know about the Obsidian, but the LS-32 should be a issue with the S Plate.
    Worst case scenario you might have to drill and tap some holes.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
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