Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

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  • Prototype909Prototype909 Joined: Posts: 41
    edited November 2014
    Flagging "WTF" when people try to help you won't get you too far here. Open up the case and plug the Cthulhu directly into the PS3 using a a USB a to B cable (make sure to unplug the RJ45 cable from your ps3 or pc first, plug both in and things will be fried). If it works , you can simply replace the Rj45 jack with a USB jack, leaving the RJ45 cable disconnected.

    I'm not the one who flagged anything (Unless it was done as a misclick), will update with pics + the results of this when I have the opportunity.
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,268
    Eh, it happens easily on phones.
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • Prototype909Prototype909 Joined: Posts: 41
    Ok, figured I'd post pictures before I proceeded in taking anything apart and making a big mess

    http://imgur.com/a/LUGyC

    Based on what I'm seeing (In the first picture) the receiver where I'd normally place the other end of the USB A to B cable into is positioned to be facing part of the case itself with basically no room in-between, the only way to plug anything into is is going to be unscrewing the Cthulhu entirely before I can plug it in does this seem correct?
  • FrankCastleAZFrankCastleAZ SRKTT Modder of the Year 2014 & AZHP Gaming Founder Joined: Posts: 890
    edited November 2014
    You know that you're supposed to hold down home WHILE you are plugging it in right? You mentioned holding it down before plugging it in, dunno if that was just a different choice of words.

    Do you have a multimeter to test the wire connections? First thing I thought of was perhaps the Home buttons of the PCBs aren't connected properly to the imp or to the button or the microswitch of the home button is going out so it's not working. That doesn't explain why it would show up as an "Unrecognized USB device" though.

    Both of those PCBs should work fine with a PC. You'll usually get an "Unrecognized USB device" if the D+ Green and D- White wires of the connection are mixed up. Considering you're using an RJ45 to USB connection, it could mean that one or both of the signal (D+ and D-) wires on the network jack side weren't crimped properly and isn't transmitting when plugged into the jack

    When you plug it in to any USB source does the LEDs for the 360 board light up?

    Have you verified that the wires going into the screw terminals on the Cthulhu are all solid and aren't coming out or loose?

    Having a multimeter means you can check the ground is flowing thru both boards, that the voltage is powering both boards, that there is no signal loss from any of the 4 wires from USB (Ground Voltage D+ D-) from one point to another, you can check the RJ45 to USB cable is correctly crimped. etc etc etc. If you have a multimeter, you can literally continuity test every point from one step to another to narrow down the potential issues.

    Also, whomever padhacked that fightpad/brawlpad shouldn't be putting glue on top of his solder points, but glue on the wire next to the solder points, this allows someone not only to make corrections on the solder point if necessary without tearing the glue off and risking lifting a trace, but also prevents the wire from being lifted up.

    I'm all for you potentially fixing your own issue here, but if you don't have the tools to do anything about it, I'd just suggest taking it to another modder.
    SRK Tech Talk Modder of the Year 2014 - Self proclaimed biggest Madcatz TE1 fanboy of all time
    AZHP Gaming - Providing casual and tournament video gaming services at events and conventions since 2006
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  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,268
    Yeah, you'll have to unscrew it. Put something non conductive between it and the imp board to prevent contact while you've got it loose.
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • Prototype909Prototype909 Joined: Posts: 41
    edited November 2014
    You know that you're supposed to hold down home WHILE you are plugging it in right? You mentioned holding it down before plugging it in, dunno if that was just a different choice of words.

    Do you have a multimeter to test the wire connections? First thing I thought of was perhaps the Home buttons of the PCBs aren't connected properly to the imp or to the button or the microswitch of the home button is going out so it's not working. That doesn't explain why it would show up as an "Unrecognized USB device" though.

    Both of those PCBs should work fine with a PC. You'll usually get an "Unrecognized USB device" if the D+ Green and D- White wires of the connection are mixed up. Considering you're using an RJ45 to USB connection, it could mean that one or both of the signal (D+ and D-) wires on the network jack side weren't crimped properly and isn't transmitting when plugged into the jack

    When you plug it in to any USB source does the LEDs for the 360 board light up?

    Have you verified that the wires going into the screw terminals on the Cthulhu are all solid and aren't coming out or loose?

    LEDs for the 360 board do light up upon plugging it into any USB source, they flash upon being plugged in and then stop or go out for lack of a better term. If they are supposed to be continuously lit after being plugged in then that is not the case.

    And yes, I know that I'm supposed to hold down home while plugging it in.
  • everythingWasBeeseverythingWasBees Full of questions Joined: Posts: 155
    Are there buttons that'd match the color of the characters on the dualshock buttons? Or is that something I'd have to pull off with paint. Preferably Sanwa, but Seimitsu work as well.
  • AmerikaAmerika Something witty here. Joined: Posts: 414
    edited November 2014
    Are there buttons that'd match the color of the characters on the dualshock buttons? Or is that something I'd have to pull off with paint. Preferably Sanwa, but Seimitsu work as well.

    You can order buttons that are approximately the same colors. Or you could order buttons that allows you to put artwork under the cap and then you can make them actually look like bigger versions of the buttons on the dualshock controller. Paradise Arcade, Focus Attack and other shops allow you to purchase individual buttons.
  • everythingWasBeeseverythingWasBees Full of questions Joined: Posts: 155
    edited December 2014
    e: nevermind, question was answered in prior post on second look, and through a bit of research on my own part. Thank you so much for your help @Amerika!
    Post edited by everythingWasBees on
  • appomoappomo Joined: Posts: 2,632
    edited November 2014
    hello guys,
    i consider to build myself a hitbox in the near future and i have a qestion about buttons.

    right now i think about the sanwa obsfs (wrong size in the link)
    http://www.arcadeshop.de/Sanwa-Buttons-Sanwa-OBSFS-30-schwarz_1128.html

    since they are not as loud as the usuall ones but i read somewhere...probably here, that there are some kind of
    microswitch buttons which durability should be much better but i havent seen them so far.


    which buttons would you recommend for a hitbox?
    for the case that there is a option without soldering i would prefer them as long as they are good.



  • EpiEpi Joined: Posts: 347
    appomo wrote: »
    hello guys,
    i consider to build myself a hitbox in the near future and i have a qestion about buttons.

    right now i think about the sanwa obsfs (wrong size in the link)
    http://www.arcadeshop.de/Sanwa-Buttons-Sanwa-OBSFS-30-schwarz_1128.html

    since they are not as loud as the usuall ones but i read somewhere...probably here, that there are some kind of
    microswitch buttons which durability should be much better but i havent seen them so far.


    which buttons would you recommend for a hitbox?
    for the case that there is a option without soldering i would prefer them as long as they are good.

    I myself prefer the Seimitsu 24 mm buttons for the hitbox - PS14-DNK

    Example: http://www.focusattack.com/seimitsu-ps14-d-n-k-24mm-screw-button-purple/

    More because they have those locking screws than anything else. Options for not-soldering the buttons...? I'm assuming you want to wire the buttons to the PCB without using solder - I prefer using quick disconnects.

    Example: http://www.focusattack.com/philmore-187-non-insulated-quick-disconnect-terminal/
    Blazblue Chronophantasma Extend: Arakune
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  • Prototype909Prototype909 Joined: Posts: 41
    Open up the case and plug the Cthulhu directly into the PS3 using a a USB a to B cable (make sure to unplug the RJ45 cable from your ps3 or pc first, plug both in and things will be fried). If it works , you can simply replace the Rj45 jack with a USB jack, leaving the RJ45 cable disconnected.

    Ok, picked up a USB A to B cable plugged it directly into a Cthulhu and plugged into both my PC and Ps3, and there's no response. I don't even get an unrecognized USB message when I plug it into the PC through the A to B cable (Whereas I did get one when I plugged it in through the RJ45 which defaults to the 360 controller), though it's still receiving power.

    I guess this means it's the Cthulhu which is dead.
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,268
    I would guess that's the case without being able to poke around in there myself. You could disconnect the cthulhu altogether as one last test (should have worked with the test you did), but that would require de-soldering, which I'm guessing is beyond your scope based on the information you've given so far. The easiest solution at this point would be to use a zero delay ps2/ps3/pc encoder (get the .110" connector version), which will run you $20. It's plug and play with the exception of possibly having to re-arrange the 5 pin (which won't take soldering either).
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,268
    Also worth adding that you could sell the hacked 360 pad with that imp board and recoup some of your losses.

    Here's the encoder I mentioned: http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-ZD-USB-Encoder-PC-PS2-PS3-to-Joystick-for-MAME-Arcade-Fight-Stick-Control-/171182655665?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27db4808b1

    The downside of that option would be that you wouldn't be able to use your pass through without doing some modification to the cable or adding a cable- nothing tough, but it might be intimidating to someone unfamiliar with stick mods and wiring. If you wanted to keep the RJ45 pass through, you could solder a 1' cat5 cable to the USB pins (following the correct cat5 configuration for ground, voltage, data+, and data-, of course) and leave the included cable out altogether (which will likely be way too long to fit in the case, unless you've got plenty of vertical clearance). If you can make the included cable fit inside, you would need to swap the pass through for a USB jack.

    All this said, replacing the Cthulhu is obviously also an option. You could do a "fresh install" and keep it solderless (would also require a USB pass through). Personally, I would use the ZD in this case, as it's cheaper and comes with all the wiring (not to mention as easy as it gets to install for someone new).
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • YenjoiYenjoi Joined: Posts: 556
    edited December 2014
    Any chance you guys know what kind of screw goes on the metal plate of the jotstick on the etokki omni rev3? Just received this etokki omni case and the screws from an older TE do no properly secret the joystick in it or what size is the screw
  • RufusRufus An unexpected database error has occurred. Joined: Posts: 1,966
    Have there been any fightsticks that work by being pressure sensitive rather than position sensitive? That is to say, fightsticks where the stick moves very little in response to pressure.
    Hitboxes http://www.pedantic.org/~nate/HDR/
    "You don't know what you're talking about as much as I do." -- Unknown
  • RufusRufus An unexpected database error has occurred. Joined: Posts: 1,966
    Yenjoi wrote: »
    Any chance you guys know what kind of screw goes on the metal plate of the jotstick on the etokki omni rev3? Just received this etokki omni case and the screws from an older TE do no properly secret the joystick in it or what size is the screw

    An easy way to address issues like this is to take the stick or a sample screw to a hardware store. Threaded screwholes in that stick are likely to be metric.
    Hitboxes http://www.pedantic.org/~nate/HDR/
    "You don't know what you're talking about as much as I do." -- Unknown
  • CoffeejuiceCoffeejuice Joined: Posts: 401
    you mean like analog joysticks? they're working with one in the smash controller thread http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/9947215#Comment_9947215. there are some arcade games that use analog joysticks also but just about every fighting game i know is designed for digital joystick inputs.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 19,755
    you mean like analog joysticks? they're working with one in the smash controller thread http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/9947215#Comment_9947215. there are some arcade games that use analog joysticks also but just about every fighting game i know is designed for digital joystick inputs.

    Most arcade games that use analog are later model Flight Sims or Driving titles.
    There no actual fighting game that uses Analog. And I disagree with the whole Smash bros Argument and Analog.
    Never pay double the retail price
  • samtruong200samtruong200 Joined: Posts: 71
    Since the Madcatz SF x T fightpad for xbox 360 seem scarce, what is another pad that is good to use for dualmodding my Round 1 PS3 TE stick? Sorry if this has been answered multiple times/wrong thread.
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,268
    Mad catz brawlpad. If you can't get a mad catz fight/brawl pad, get a mad catz 4716 controller (getting the triggers to work properly will require hex inverters, though you could keep it easy and go 6 button). Rock candy pads seem popular here as of late (cheap and common ground), but I can't personally attest to using one.
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,268
    Sweet, didn't know you could skip the inverters on those.
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • Lemony VengeanceLemony Vengeance JAMMA pad hacker Extraordinaire Joined: Posts: 463
    I guess this means it's the Cthulhu which is dead.

    You may be able to revive it by buying a replacement IC from toodles. I've had to replace the IC once or twice due to some issues I've encountered and that cleared them up. they're listed as the "MC Cthulhu Upgrade Kit" You'll only need the IC.
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  • samtruong200samtruong200 Joined: Posts: 71
    Since the Madcatz SF x T fightpad for xbox 360 seem scarce, what is another pad that is good to use for dualmodding my Round 1 PS3 TE stick? Sorry if this has been answered multiple times/wrong thread.

    The 360 Rock Candy controllers are $20 each at Toys R Us, are common ground, and easy to padhack. No trigger inversion needed. Price match if needed, as it's $25 everywhere else.

    360ps3imp1200.jpg
    CLICK HERE for full size

    Awesome, what pcb is that on the right?

  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 19,755
    The pcb are in this order
    xbox 360, v 2 imp and a cthlhu
    Never pay double the retail price
  • NakiNaki 「謎のバイカー」 Joined: Posts: 448
    What's a fairly inexpensive soldering iron? I had a weller 25w and it just died on me in the middle of a project. I'm also looking for something with a smaller tip as well.
    like this post if you want cfe released on psn/xbla
    cvs2 too
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 19,755
    Naki wrote: »
    What's a fairly inexpensive soldering iron? I had a weller 25w and it just died on me in the middle of a project. I'm also looking for something with a smaller tip as well.
    I was going to recommend the soldering iron you had died
    Never pay double the retail price
  • CoffeejuiceCoffeejuice Joined: Posts: 401
    i've been keeping a 5 dollar 30w iron from walmart for about two years now. the tips wear away with extensive use but i find cheap replacements on amazon or ebay. i have to use a fresh tip for the projects that require more precision but it works well most of the time.
  • manbehindthewiresmanbehindthewires Consider yourself lightly, consider the world deeply Joined: Posts: 930

    Also, whomever padhacked that fightpad/brawlpad shouldn't be putting glue on top of his solder points, but glue on the wire next to the solder points, this allows someone not only to make corrections on the solder point if necessary without tearing the glue off and risking lifting a trace, but also prevents the wire from being lifted up.

    I use clear RTV (Dow Corning 732) instead of glue. Can cover the whole board if you want and it'll peel off without causing any damage whatsoever.

    Still holds well enough under fightstick levels of stress, although arguably its not as strong as glue.
    SFV: Chun Li [CFN: thewires / manbehindthewires]
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  • EndRantEndRant Joined: Posts: 202
    Hey guys, I'm new here. So I looked into the hrap v4 and the new madcatz te2( persona edition looks amazing) and from what I've read they're pretty much the same in terms of quality.

    I read the input lag thread(bad idea) that said mad catz is not that good, I know I shouldn't worry since the hrap v4 and te2 haven't been tested but now I'm not sure.

    I'm also I complete noob about this, I grew up in arcades with battops and really do not like the lollipop top, it's just feels so weird to me but that can easily be replaced. Also,I hate that the hori buttons go under the rim and don't stick out like the te2 which I guess I can also mod.

    What I'm getting at is I'm really confused as to which one will be betterfor someone that grew up in American arcades but that other thread about the input delay made it more difficult for me to decide, any help would be really appreciated.
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,268
    edited December 2014
    Without either of those being tested (or anything being tested on new gen consoles), I wouldn't worry about lag. Based on features alone (as I haven't used either stick), I would take the te2 over the v4. The flip top would be very convenient, and a detachable usb cable much better than the shitty cable door the v4 has.
    Post edited by PresidentCamacho on
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • samtruong200samtruong200 Joined: Posts: 71
    So I'm gonna dual mod my ps3 round 1 TE with the IMP + some 360 controller but I'm still a bit confused on how it will work, please correct me if I am wrong.

    1) I'm gonna take the USB cable and desolder the one side from the TE and connect to the IMP as described by the PDF
    2) I'm gonna take the USB cable from the 360 controller and connect it to the IMP as describe by the PDF, but I'll be cutting off the end that would connect to the console, not desoldering anything.
    3) Then I need to split the inputs from the stick and buttons by soldering a wire to each quick disconnect and the other end to the appropriate spot on the 360 controller.

    Is this correct so far?
  • gfmoneygfmoney Joined: Posts: 10
    I have a question: Are Kuro buttons bad? I've heard they're worse than Sanwa's, but are they legit bad? I want to buy a Hori V4 and read the respective thread. However I would like some more information (it's the cheapest stick in amazon.uk and the hayabusa has good credibility from what I've seen). It's my first stick so I guess I'm not picky.
  • AmerikaAmerika Something witty here. Joined: Posts: 414
    I have some GamerFinger buttons and I have a couple of issues and I'd like some insight. I bought the buttons due to curiosity (also picked up blue switches to try as well) and aesthetic reasons.

    Issue 1:

    The first issue is the metal contacts of the Cherry MX switches do not make a solid connection at all times. Randomly one of my buttons will simply stop working or won't work on every press (even though it could work for hours). Is there a way to increase the reliability of the connection between connection of the prongs on the bottom of the cherry mx switch with the button casing? Obviously soldering isn't an option here. I could glue in the buttons and hope that removing all movement fixes the issue but I figured I'd ask if there was something else I could also do. This might change the way the buttons feel in a negative way but right now it's either that or replace them. I do plan on gluing the buttons in still which leads me to my second issue.

    Issue 2:

    If you slap buttons with a downward motion where your fingers slide across the buttons as you hit, the Gamerfinger buttons will pop out. Last night I went to an event and a guy there did his normal Fuerte run/stop with the buttons and two of them popped out. He then got pretty much all of them to pop out. Apparently, the way I play the buttons don't fly out but I was able to replicate it myself and it's so crazy easy to do. I plan on gluing the button tops in so I don't really need advice on this particular issue but I figured I'd post this here in case somebody else had the same problem.
  • FrankCastleAZFrankCastleAZ SRKTT Modder of the Year 2014 & AZHP Gaming Founder Joined: Posts: 890
    edited December 2014
    gfmoney wrote: »
    I have a question: Are Kuro buttons bad? I've heard they're worse than Sanwa's, but are they legit bad? I want to buy a Hori V4 and read the respective thread. However I would like some more information (it's the cheapest stick in amazon.uk and the hayabusa has good credibility from what I've seen). It's my first stick so I guess I'm not picky.

    There's nothing wrong with the Kuro buttons, some people just prefer Sanwa or Seimitsu or whatever else. For people's opinions you may want to read the comments in the Hori Fighting Edge topic, as that I believe was the first stick they released with Kuro buttons and the Hayabusa joystick.
    It all comes down to personal preference. Although no one preferred the old Hori buttons in PS2 sticks over Sanwa and Seimitsu, many people enjoy Hori's new products.


    SRK Tech Talk Modder of the Year 2014 - Self proclaimed biggest Madcatz TE1 fanboy of all time
    AZHP Gaming - Providing casual and tournament video gaming services at events and conventions since 2006
    Paradise Arcade Shop <-- Buy all of your arcade parts from here
    Eightarc <-- Buy all of your arcade sticks from here (Code AZFGC2015 for $10 off $50+ or AZHPGAMING for $15 off $100+)
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 19,755
    gfmoney wrote: »
    I have a question: Are Kuro buttons bad? I've heard they're worse than Sanwa's, but are they legit bad? I want to buy a Hori V4 and read the respective thread. However I would like some more information (it's the cheapest stick in amazon.uk and the hayabusa has good credibility from what I've seen). It's my first stick so I guess I'm not picky.

    Kuro buttons are on par with Sanwa buttons when it comes to quality.
    Kuros have a larger plunger area than Sanwa and Seimitsu buttons
    but the one down side is Kuros tend to squeek until you broken the buttons in a bit.
    Never pay double the retail price
  • EndRantEndRant Joined: Posts: 202
    @PresidentCamacho‌ well, the v4 is sold out and I don't think they'll have it again for a while and gg xrd is coming out in about a week so I guess te2 it is, I was gonna buy both since I have the money but kinda felt like a waste of money. Anyway, thanks for the reply.
  • samtruong200samtruong200 Joined: Posts: 71
    So I'm gonna dual mod my ps3 round 1 TE with the IMP + some 360 controller but I'm still a bit confused on how it will work, please correct me if I am wrong.

    1) I'm gonna take the USB cable and desolder the one side from the TE and connect to the IMP as described by the PDF
    2) I'm gonna take the USB cable from the 360 controller and connect it to the IMP as describe by the PDF, but I'll be cutting off the end that would connect to the console, not desoldering anything.
    3) Then I need to split the inputs from the stick and buttons by soldering a wire to each quick disconnect and the other end to the appropriate spot on the 360 controller.

    Is this correct so far?

    1 - Why desolder the USB cable from the PS3 TE PCB? Just snip the USB cable (with a bit extra length than expected) to solder to the Imp. You could even re-use your USB cord you'd still only lose out on perhaps a combined one foot of the whole cable.

    2 - No desoldering needed, just like I mentioned above.

    3 - You could do it on the quick disconnects (QDC) but it's a lot easier to do on the bottom of the QDC terminal. Whichever you do, make sure you aware which side is ground and which side is signals.

    See photo I took and edited below for help on 1 and 2

    DUALMOD-PS3TE-360ROCKCANDYsmall.png
    CLICK HERE FOR FULL SIZE

    Awesome example, this helps greatly. And the USB that connects directly to the console will be soldered onto the top of IMP, correct? Also for point 3, what do you mean "bottom of the QDC terminal?"

    Sorry for so many questions, but I appreciate it alot!
  • FrankCastleAZFrankCastleAZ SRKTT Modder of the Year 2014 & AZHP Gaming Founder Joined: Posts: 890
    edited December 2014
    And the USB that connects directly to the console will be soldered onto the top of IMP, correct?

    That's not really the top of the PCB, but due to the way it's positioned in the photo I know what you mean, so yes.
    Also for point 3, what do you mean "bottom of the QDC terminal?"

    I stated what QDC was in the same sentence with (parenthesis).
    Quick Disconnect = QDC

    The .110 quick disconnects are on the wires going from the QDC terminal to the buttons.
    Instead of pulling away the plastic on the wires and soldering to the QDCs, just unscrew the QDC Terminal and solder to the bottom of the terminal.


    This is what the terminal looks like:

    Photo stolen from JDM's photobucket
    c4c9fe24.jpg


    This what the bottom of the terminal looks like (ignore the blue wire for your purpose):

    Photo stolen from Clayton's website
    0306111417.jpg

    As mentioned, just take note on which side the ground and signals are and be sure you're solding the 360 PCB signals to the signal side of the terminal. If you're not sure which side is which, use a multimeter and check for continuity. If you don't have a multimeter, you should be able to tell signal side just by looking, as the ground side is all one piece, and the signal side has individual traces on the PCB for each signal.
    Sorry for so many questions, but I appreciate it alot!

    No prob. Perhaps tinkering will inspire you to start modding more (for the fun of it). :-) Everyone gets their start modding somehow, and my knowledge wasn't far from yours 4 years ago.




    SRK Tech Talk Modder of the Year 2014 - Self proclaimed biggest Madcatz TE1 fanboy of all time
    AZHP Gaming - Providing casual and tournament video gaming services at events and conventions since 2006
    Paradise Arcade Shop <-- Buy all of your arcade parts from here
    Eightarc <-- Buy all of your arcade sticks from here (Code AZFGC2015 for $10 off $50+ or AZHPGAMING for $15 off $100+)
  • deaded by pandadeaded by panda Joined: Posts: 306
    Simple question that I just can't find the answer too. I have a custom stick with a ps360. How would I make that compatible to play on PS4.

    I understand I will have to padhack a DS4, but I'm not sure I have the tools nor patience to do that now. So what would I need or who can i pay to get this done quickly lol.
    i suck at video games
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 19,755
    Simple question that I just can't find the answer too. I have a custom stick with a ps360. How would I make that compatible to play on PS4.

    I understand I will have to padhack a DS4, but I'm not sure I have the tools nor patience to do that now. So what would I need or who can i pay to get this done quickly lol.

    It would be treated like any other Dual Mod. I would suggest reading though the Dual Mod 101 thread http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/125848/dual-modding-101

    There would be a couple of ways to set up how would you switch between the PS360+ and the PS4 PCB. V2 IMP board, a DPDT switch and by cable select (multiple cables) would be the methods that come to mind.

    Never pay double the retail price
  • NakiNaki 「謎のバイカー」 Joined: Posts: 448
    I'm looking more for an educational answer rather than a "fix without understanding" answer.
    What triggers the activation of a button on a board? Is it connecting it to a certain part of the board (gnd/vcc/other button) that triggers the activation or is there something else? Is it possible to do this deliberately?

    Where this comes into play is that I know that the MCC boards need to be updated to ensure that they work properly with IMPv2 boards. The new IMP came a USB port installed, so I can just plug in the board and see that it is detected. However, going into bootloader mode needs start and select to be activated prior to the board booting up. In addition, in the past my other stick had this problem of buttons being activated and I didn't know what exactly caused it, so I just rewired the entire board.
    like this post if you want cfe released on psn/xbla
    cvs2 too
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 19,755
    Naki wrote: »
    I'm looking more for an educational answer rather than a "fix without understanding" answer.
    What triggers the activation of a button on a board? Is it connecting it to a certain part of the board (gnd/vcc/other button) that triggers the activation or is there something else? Is it possible to do this deliberately?

    Where this comes into play is that I know that the MCC boards need to be updated to ensure that they work properly with IMPv2 boards. The new IMP came a USB port installed, so I can just plug in the board and see that it is detected. However, going into bootloader mode needs start and select to be activated prior to the board booting up. In addition, in the past my other stick had this problem of buttons being activated and I didn't know what exactly caused it, so I just rewired the entire board.

    Button activation (for common ground PCBs) is detected when you connect a signal line to ground.

    There is Low logic where the voltage drops triggers the input, and there high logic where an increase of voltage equals a input.
    I believe (but I could be wrong) that the Cthulhu works on logic low.

    For refrance, the "analog" for triggers (L2 and R2) on the Sony PS3 SIX AXIS and Dual Shock 3 controllers are Logic High and Low. With one being a hard press and the other a soft press.

    For true analog like the XBOX 360 triggers or any analog thumb stick, there a few more "steps" with various voltage levels represents a step (location on the X, Y or Z axis) in the game's logic.
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  • samtruong200samtruong200 Joined: Posts: 71
    I have one of those fancy schmancy soldering irons where you can put in the temperature, what temp should I be using for dual mod? I got it on clearance :smiley:
  • NakiNaki 「謎のバイカー」 Joined: Posts: 448
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Button activation (for common ground PCBs) is detected when you connect a signal line to ground.

    There is Low logic where the voltage drops triggers the input, and there high logic where an increase of voltage equals a input.
    I believe (but I could be wrong) that the Cthulhu works on logic low.

    For refrance, the "analog" for triggers (L2 and R2) on the Sony PS3 SIX AXIS and Dual Shock 3 controllers are Logic High and Low. With one being a hard press and the other a soft press.

    For true analog like the XBOX 360 triggers or any analog thumb stick, there a few more "steps" with various voltage levels represents a step (location on the X, Y or Z axis) in the game's logic.

    Thank you for that explanation. I've never really thought of why buttons had their own ground line in addition to their own unique line.
    I'm tired of just looking at diagrams and trying to emulate them rather than understanding the actual mechanics and reasoning why/how it works. I really appreciate the answer, thanks again.

    I was able to ground start and select with random wires to get cthulhu into bootloader mode and update the firmware. I felt like a mad scientist.
    like this post if you want cfe released on psn/xbla
    cvs2 too
  • Lemony VengeanceLemony Vengeance JAMMA pad hacker Extraordinaire Joined: Posts: 463
    I have one of those fancy schmancy soldering irons where you can put in the temperature, what temp should I be using for dual mod? I got it on clearance :smiley:

    Too much heat is bad for the board. Not enough heat is going to cause some bad solder joints. I like to keep my Weller Digital Soldering Iron at about 660 Degrees F and it seems to do the trick. Mine may be too hot for some peoples liking, though so further input would be most appreciated. :D
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  • deseradadeserada Joined: Posts: 562
    edited December 2014
    I have one of those fancy schmancy soldering irons where you can put in the temperature, what temp should I be using for dual mod? I got it on clearance :smiley:
    I use around 256C with leaded (60/40) solder. For soldering to ground planes, don't be afraid to kick it up around 10 degrees. Even if it's temperature-regulated, you'll have to leave the iron on the plane for quite some time before it can be worked with, and if it cools down you could lose a lot of time re-heating it each time.

    Lead-free solder also needs a bit more heat, so the numbers Lemony is quoting sound about right for that. I was in the mid-low 300's (Celsius) last time I worked with lead-free.

    In either case the the thermistor should be reporting something around 10-20% higher than the melting point of your solder, as the shielding and the tip will inevitably become dirtied with (even proper) use, and will conduct heat less efficiently. Even a brand new iron will not be able to catch up with the rate at which the solder will cool down by contact with air and the board, so you have to overshoot.

  • SirAlucardSirAlucard Joined: Posts: 1
    edited December 2014
    Irrelevant now.
    Post edited by SirAlucard on
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