Venom arcade stick PS4/PS3

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  • CoralusCoralus Joined: Posts: 2
    Wanted to post and say thanks to the major contributors on this thread. I have just finished my Venom Stick mod.

    Sanwa JLF-TPRG-8AYT-SK Silent Joystick (with a 2lb spring, Kowal oversize actuator and octagon gate)
    Sanwa OBSC-30-C Buttons (with Silencer washers from Focus Attack)
    Under defeat art using the template posted here

    133ukjE.jpg

    Pretty pleased with it and I am liking the upgraded joystick a lot.

    Thanks again!

  • CoralusCoralus Joined: Posts: 2
    Also, does anyone have a shareable source for hi-res game art? I really struggled to find art (especially for classic games of course) of a high enough resolution to make it usable.
  • syrelinarasyrelinara Joined: Posts: 4
    When im printing out my artwork, what size does the paper have to be?

    Can I use the standard A3 size?

    Also, should I be printing out the artwork with the holes of the button layout or just the full artwork and manually use the plastic case to make the outline and cut it?
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    I usually go without the button layout, as those button layout circles are rarely alighted 100% accurate.
    I use the panel as a template and use a pencil to lightly mark where the button holes go on the backside of the art.

    I cut button holes out slowly with a hobby knife or xacto knife with a fresh blade.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • SplunksySplunksy Joined: Posts: 2
    Hey, Does anyone know if the Venom has enough space in the case for a Korean lever?

    Thinking about trying to pick up one of these 2nd hand cheap and then spending the difference on new parts to build it up to standard, and after seeing how pretty everyone's is the temptation is growing.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    Splunksy wrote: »
    Hey, Does anyone know if the Venom has enough space in the case for a Korean lever?

    Thinking about trying to pick up one of these 2nd hand cheap and then spending the difference on new parts to build it up to standard, and after seeing how pretty everyone's is the temptation is growing.

    It only work if you find a Korean joystick with Japanese style mounts
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • SplunksySplunksy Joined: Posts: 2
    Darksakul wrote: »
    It only work if you find a Korean joystick with Japanese style mounts

    Sweet, Thank you I guess that means a Crown will fit and do then, unless I change the plate of a Fanta
  • earthwormbenearthwormben Joined: Posts: 46
    At the moment I plan to spray my venom with some lacquer based paint I'm sick of how boring the black case makes my art look, although I'm thinking of going with new art so may design that first.
  • JPs3JPs3 Joined: Posts: 7
    edited May 30
    Does anyone feel the lever is kind of stiff on the stick? Also does anyone have any artwork from Guilty Gear that they've used or know print size?
  • B1GB0SS316B1GB0SS316 Joined: Posts: 3
    Hi folks,

    Going to be modding this like Biggz has into a hitbox style one. I've already ordered the Venom off of Amazon (£69.99). Have reached out to a few laser cutting companies for the acrylic sheets that I need, one has quoted me £63.99 + VAT which seems a bit steep but they can turn it around in 24 hours (I am far too impatient). Will see what the other companies quote me.

    As for buttons I'll be ordering them off of ArcadeWorldUK. 12 x 24mm and 1 x 30mm Sanwa buttons. I've messaged Biggz to find out what wiring I need.

    I have been racking my brains figuring out how to build a hitbox and chanced across this thread via Amazon (and Biggz posts) :clapdos:

    Not sure about Artwork just yet. As soon as I've made some progress I'll share with you guys.
  • BiggzBiggz Joined: Posts: 44
    B1GB0SS316 wrote: »
    I've messaged Biggz to find out what wiring I need.
    I figured I'd reply here so everyone can benefit. First off, anyone coming straight to this post look at the previous page for my write up when I actually modded my stick. The following answers are from memory :)
    Also DontPoke on Reddit has incorporated one of my suggested improvements in to the acrylic design, smaller screw holes, his post can be seen here.
    Replacement Buttons for Venom
    I ordered 15 OSBF-24 Snap-in buttons and one OSBF-30 Snap-in, I'm not sure about the screw ins, I think they are bigger diameter underneath the button. I'm not sure on the dimensions of those :(

    The 15 buttons were for; 8x action buttons, left, down, right, ps4 button replacement, share, option.. cant remember what the last was for but it's not wired in :P The 30mm button is for jump.
    How do you replace the existing top enclosure with the two pieces you had cut to size?
    If i remember right you go in via the bottom of the case removing 4x screws, then remove the stock snap-in buttons. This should let the top acryllic layer be removed, it is only held on by magnets.
    Once the top acrylic layer is removed it reveals a metal plate, the screws to remove this line up with the screw holes in my acryllic templates.
    How do you wire the directional buttons to the PCB? Is it worth changing the existing PCB to the Brooke one you switched to?
    Again going from memory, the venom PCB is pretty good but it doesn't provide SOCD cleaning I dont think, but I used it with SFV and nothing funny happened and the game only reported one direction being pressed.

    If you're using the stock PCB it's very easy to make in to a hitbox. I originally made a hitbox for PC only, out of a plastic box using a Zero Delay USB Encoder (something like this, but it's not the exact one ). You dont need that PCB, but it comes with extremely handly cables. The Venom board is pretty good in that it has a 5pin ribbon cable for the existing joystick (or replacements) and it also has those 2pin terminals that those wires can use.

    I think the biggest reason I switched to Brook UFB was that it's SOCD cleaner would produce UP when DOWN and UP were pressed, that and I had a UFB and it's a waste not using it.
    What acryllic did you use (thickness and type?) and what tools would i need for the button replacement etc?
    I used 3mm thick acrylic which the original acrylic is, but the metal plate I replaced is more like 2mm thick. This doesn't make a noticable difference. Tools for button replacement is a screwdriver set, probably get away with a cross head screwdriver only :P
    Unlike other mods you have also incorported scew holes and have a second sheet?
    I incorporated screwholes in to the top as the stock Venom acrylic is held on by magnets, this mod isn't.

    I'd say give it a go with the stock venom PCB and some of those wires from Ebay, no soldering needed. At that point if you feel you want to upgrade to UFB then it's not much harder.
  • B1GB0SS316B1GB0SS316 Joined: Posts: 3
    Biggz wrote: »
    B1GB0SS316 wrote: »
    I've messaged Biggz to find out what wiring I need.
    I figured I'd reply here so everyone can benefit. First off, anyone coming straight to this post look at the previous page for my write up when I actually modded my stick. The following answers are from memory :)
    Also DontPoke on Reddit has incorporated one of my suggested improvements in to the acrylic design, smaller screw holes, his post can be seen here.
    Replacement Buttons for Venom
    I ordered 15 OSBF-24 Snap-in buttons and one OSBF-30 Snap-in, I'm not sure about the screw ins, I think they are bigger diameter underneath the button. I'm not sure on the dimensions of those :(

    The 15 buttons were for; 8x action buttons, left, down, right, ps4 button replacement, share, option.. cant remember what the last was for but it's not wired in :P The 30mm button is for jump.
    How do you replace the existing top enclosure with the two pieces you had cut to size?
    If i remember right you go in via the bottom of the case removing 4x screws, then remove the stock snap-in buttons. This should let the top acryllic layer be removed, it is only held on by magnets.
    Once the top acrylic layer is removed it reveals a metal plate, the screws to remove this line up with the screw holes in my acryllic templates.
    How do you wire the directional buttons to the PCB? Is it worth changing the existing PCB to the Brooke one you switched to?
    Again going from memory, the venom PCB is pretty good but it doesn't provide SOCD cleaning I dont think, but I used it with SFV and nothing funny happened and the game only reported one direction being pressed.

    If you're using the stock PCB it's very easy to make in to a hitbox. I originally made a hitbox for PC only, out of a plastic box using a Zero Delay USB Encoder (something like this, but it's not the exact one ). You dont need that PCB, but it comes with extremely handly cables. The Venom board is pretty good in that it has a 5pin ribbon cable for the existing joystick (or replacements) and it also has those 2pin terminals that those wires can use.

    I think the biggest reason I switched to Brook UFB was that it's SOCD cleaner would produce UP when DOWN and UP were pressed, that and I had a UFB and it's a waste not using it.
    What acryllic did you use (thickness and type?) and what tools would i need for the button replacement etc?
    I used 3mm thick acrylic which the original acrylic is, but the metal plate I replaced is more like 2mm thick. This doesn't make a noticable difference. Tools for button replacement is a screwdriver set, probably get away with a cross head screwdriver only :P
    Unlike other mods you have also incorported scew holes and have a second sheet?
    I incorporated screwholes in to the top as the stock Venom acrylic is held on by magnets, this mod isn't.

    I'd say give it a go with the stock venom PCB and some of those wires from Ebay, no soldering needed. At that point if you feel you want to upgrade to UFB then it's not much harder.


    Thanks for all this really handy information really useful! Just one thing I am a little unclear on (sorry if I am being thick) -

    The wiring - could I use different wiring than the eBay example e.g. like the recommended wiring on ArcadeWorldUK? https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/10-x-1-metre-long-insulated-2-8mm-crimped-wires.html

    Do I need to daisy chain the directional buttons?

    Would it be okay to use the Sanwa OBSC-24-C & 30-C Snap-ins or do I have to use the OBSF buttons?

  • B1GB0SS316B1GB0SS316 Joined: Posts: 3
    edited June 7
    Biggz wrote: »
    B1GB0SS316 wrote: »
    If you're using the stock PCB it's very easy to make in to a hitbox. I originally made a hitbox for PC only, out of a plastic box using a Zero Delay USB Encoder (something like this, but it's not the exact one ). You dont need that PCB, but it comes with extremely handly cables. The Venom board is pretty good in that it has a 5pin ribbon cable for the existing joystick (or replacements) and it also has those 2pin terminals that those wires can use.

    Would this do it? https://www.amazon.co.uk/XCSOURCE-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting-AC425/dp/B01IQTN1NO/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1496858090&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=zero+delay+usb+encoder

    Edit: I've bought the above kit from Amazon for £6.99

  • BiggzBiggz Joined: Posts: 44
    B1GB0SS316 wrote: »
    The wiring - could I use different wiring than the eBay example e.g. like the recommended wiring on ArcadeWorldUK? https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/10-x-1-metre-long-insulated-2-8mm-crimped-wires.html
    You could use that wiring, but if you're going to use the Venom PCB you'd have to crimp (solder?) on the 2pin connectors. I used that cable when I installed my Brook UFB. I just cut to length, stripped 5mm off the end and screwed in to the terminals on the UFB.
    B1GB0SS316 wrote: »
    Do I need to daisy chain the directional buttons?
    Not if you use the cables bought with a Zero Delay USB encoder in to the Venom PCB.
    Yes if you use the cable linked from Arcade world in to a Brook UFB, or similar.
    B1GB0SS316 wrote: »
    Would it be okay to use the Sanwa OBSC-24-C & 30-C Snap-ins or do I have to use the OBSF buttons?
    I've not used those but I believe the only difference is OBSC are translucent and OBSF are not. You may get a definite answer if some kind soul looks here, or you could ask on the Absolute Question and answer thread
  • DieselboyDieselboy Joined: Posts: 1
    Don't know if anybody has pointed this out but I had constant problems with my SANWA stick squeeking after each click , started squeeking on the right, fixed it, then left and then down. It can almost go unnoticed but once you do, it is all that you will hear. :#
    Carefully open up the micro switches and put some kind of canned lubricant on the tiny red plastic prongs and fix it. I just did all 4 at the same time.

    https://support.focusattack.com/hc/en-us/articles/207448323-How-to-Fix-Squeaky-Sanwa-JLF-Joystick?mobile_site=true
  • Shr33Shr33 Joined: Posts: 25
    edited June 19
    Biggz wrote: »
    B1GB0SS316 wrote: »
    I've messaged Biggz to find out what wiring I need.
    I figured I'd reply here so everyone can benefit. First off, anyone coming straight to this post look at the previous page for my write up when I actually modded my stick. The following answers are from memory :)
    Also DontPoke on Reddit has incorporated one of my suggested improvements in to the acrylic design, smaller screw holes, his post can be seen here.
    Replacement Buttons for Venom
    I ordered 15 OSBF-24 Snap-in buttons and one OSBF-30 Snap-in, I'm not sure about the screw ins, I think they are bigger diameter underneath the button. I'm not sure on the dimensions of those :(

    The 15 buttons were for; 8x action buttons, left, down, right, ps4 button replacement, share, option.. cant remember what the last was for but it's not wired in :P The 30mm button is for jump.
    How do you replace the existing top enclosure with the two pieces you had cut to size?
    If i remember right you go in via the bottom of the case removing 4x screws, then remove the stock snap-in buttons. This should let the top acryllic layer be removed, it is only held on by magnets.
    Once the top acrylic layer is removed it reveals a metal plate, the screws to remove this line up with the screw holes in my acryllic templates.
    How do you wire the directional buttons to the PCB? Is it worth changing the existing PCB to the Brooke one you switched to?
    Again going from memory, the venom PCB is pretty good but it doesn't provide SOCD cleaning I dont think, but I used it with SFV and nothing funny happened and the game only reported one direction being pressed.

    If you're using the stock PCB it's very easy to make in to a hitbox. I originally made a hitbox for PC only, out of a plastic box using a Zero Delay USB Encoder (something like this, but it's not the exact one ). You dont need that PCB, but it comes with extremely handly cables. The Venom board is pretty good in that it has a 5pin ribbon cable for the existing joystick (or replacements) and it also has those 2pin terminals that those wires can use.

    I think the biggest reason I switched to Brook UFB was that it's SOCD cleaner would produce UP when DOWN and UP were pressed, that and I had a UFB and it's a waste not using it.
    What acryllic did you use (thickness and type?) and what tools would i need for the button replacement etc?
    I used 3mm thick acrylic which the original acrylic is, but the metal plate I replaced is more like 2mm thick. This doesn't make a noticable difference. Tools for button replacement is a screwdriver set, probably get away with a cross head screwdriver only :P
    Unlike other mods you have also incorported scew holes and have a second sheet?
    I incorporated screwholes in to the top as the stock Venom acrylic is held on by magnets, this mod isn't.

    I'd say give it a go with the stock venom PCB and some of those wires from Ebay, no soldering needed. At that point if you feel you want to upgrade to UFB then it's not much harder.

    What is produced when you press up + down on the Venom PCB? I'm also going to be doing this mod but I plan on just using the Venom PCB and I'm likely going to be using the hitbox for Tekken 7.

    After some testing with a couple of screwdrivers it turns out the Venom PCB behaves like so:

    L+R = L (always, doesn't matter which side you're on in what game etc).
    U+D= U.

    Something for anyone who wants to do this mod should bear in mind.
  • BiggzBiggz Joined: Posts: 44
    Shr33 wrote: »
    What is produced when you press up + down on the Venom PCB? I'm also going to be doing this mod but I plan on just using the Venom PCB and I'm likely going to be using the hitbox for Tekken 7.

    After some testing with a couple of screwdrivers it turns out the Venom PCB behaves like so:

    L+R = L (always, doesn't matter which side you're on in what game etc).
    U+D= U.

    Something for anyone who wants to do this mod should bear in mind.

    This sounds about right, I remember there being something annoying with the venom that made me want to swtich back to the UFB :P You could buy a SOCD cleaner but at that point i'd rather just put the money towards a UFB or a PS4+ AUDIO FIGHTING BOARD
  • FortyForty Joined: Posts: 1
    Hi there,
    newbie here in stick universe, made my first mod, thanks to this forum and johnnytoxic's templates :

    985317GookiVenom01.jpg

    Happy with my new Venom !
  • Richie_IncognitoRichie_Incognito Joined: Posts: 14
    edited June 21
    My first custom stick. Helped out by a fellow SRK member with the art. Sanwa buttons and joystick.
    hvo5c4.jpg
    Post edited by Richie_Incognito on
  • GoldenGazeGoldenGaze Joined: Posts: 50
    "The Killing Joke". Gotta love Brian Bolland's artwork. I've still got my copy laying about somewhere.
    Through the haze and the smoke in the room, I caught your golden gaze.... Knew these were better days.... Ian Brown, Godlike genius.
  • shippyAUshippyAU Joined: Posts: 2
    Hey guys, has anyone had problems with the start/select board on their Venom? I switched my stick to LS accidentally and at some point it has gotten stuck in that mode, which means I can't use it in Tekken menus. I've checked the contacts with a multimeter and everything seems to be in working order, but it won't switch modes back to DP. Anyone got any ideas?
  • MaxmanMaxman Joined: Posts: 1,824
    Are there any keyboard style hitboxes made that have arrow keys ? Ken player Ceroblast uses one
  • Shr33Shr33 Joined: Posts: 25
    I'm in the process of ordering a Seimitsu LS-56 to put in one of these and I have a choice of mounting plates; MS, VF, SS-P-40 & SE-P-40 mounting plates

    Which one of these should I order with it?
  • madmalkavmadmalkav Joined: Posts: 57
    Shr33 wrote: »
    I'm in the process of ordering a Seimitsu LS-56 to put in one of these and I have a choice of mounting plates; MS, VF, SS-P-40 & SE-P-40 mounting plates

    Which one of these should I order with it?

    I'm really interested in knowing this, too.
  • gahrlinggahrling Better safe than Hori.. Joined: Posts: 3,968
    Shr33 wrote: »
    I'm in the process of ordering a Seimitsu LS-56 to put in one of these and I have a choice of mounting plates; MS, VF, SS-P-40 & SE-P-40 mounting plates

    Which one of these should I order with it?

    MS
  • madmalkavmadmalkav Joined: Posts: 57
    Thanks man.
  • madmalkavmadmalkav Joined: Posts: 57
    Bought a LS-56 with a MS Plate on a spanish second hand website, the plate definitively doesn't fit ok, you can only fix two upper or lower screws.
  • gahrlinggahrling Better safe than Hori.. Joined: Posts: 3,968
    The Sanwa JLF mounting plate and Seimitsu MS plate have the same drilled hole dimensions (85mm x 40mm). I've done multiple installs of MS mounted joysticks into the Venom and they fit as well as the JLF.

    Can you provide pics?
  • madmalkavmadmalkav Joined: Posts: 57
    edited July 20
    Not the best pic in the world, I was on my way bed when I read uour message. If you need more/better photos just tell and I will do them tomorrow happily.

    2ufrqr4.jpg
  • gahrlinggahrling Better safe than Hori.. Joined: Posts: 3,968
    Weird, I've not had any problems before, and I'm assuming that's a legit MS plate.

    In your case it's a simple enough fix by using a needle file or rotary tool to make all 4 holes slightly longer. Alternatively you could use an old JLF mounting plate and drill 4 holes into that to fix the joystick, though it helps if you can use a see-through template to get the holes aligned like something cut from some box packaging.
  • madmalkavmadmalkav Joined: Posts: 57
    As I bought this second hand, I have also considered perhaos it is not a legit MS plate. i will measure it later just for curiosity. Thanks for the DIY ideas but I think I will order an universal plate as I'm probably gonna test a number of joysticks in this box.
  • felisemafelisema Joined: Posts: 3
    I guys, just an info. Does the arcade stick have input lag?
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,608
    Yes, as does every other arcade stick. If you want to know how much, the simple answer is "Not enough that it'll ruin your gameplay experience",
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    felisema wrote: »
    I guys, just an info. Does the arcade stick have input lag?
    Scientifically everything has some degree of lag as the electrons in your sticks wiring can only go so fast.

    Here is Grace Hoppers "a Nanoseccond of wire".



    Nothing has absolutely zero lag, anyone who said otherwise is selling something or running a scam.

    Now you see people say there no lag, what they really mean there is no perceivable lag. That human perception can't pick it up and not enough to effect game play like BolSadguy said above.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • felisemafelisema Joined: Posts: 3
    Thanks for the answers. I was a little scared after watching a video on youtube that showed a very obvious lag. Well, I think I can proceed with the purchase ^^.
    Ps. sorry if my English is not good
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    felisema wrote: »
    Thanks for the answers. I was a little scared after watching a video on youtube that showed a very obvious lag. Well, I think I can proceed with the purchase ^^.
    Ps. sorry if my English is not good

    Most of the lag post you see online are glorified witch hunts.
    Take most of it with a grain of salt.

    If you have to take word for lag results from someone, follow Noodalls.
    He at least shows his testing method and past the scrutiny of most of his critics.
    Teyah on the other hand can go jump.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • felisemafelisema Joined: Posts: 3
    Darksakul wrote: »
    felisema wrote: »
    Thanks for the answers. I was a little scared after watching a video on youtube that showed a very obvious lag. Well, I think I can proceed with the purchase ^^.
    Ps. sorry if my English is not good

    Most of the lag post you see online are glorified witch hunts.
    Take most of it with a grain of salt.

    If you have to take word for lag results from someone, follow Noodalls.
    He at least shows his testing method and past the scrutiny of most of his critics.
    Teyah on the other hand can go jump.

    thanks man! Very helpful
  • IPestyGamingIPestyGaming Joined: Posts: 16
    So, I've been using this post for reference for the past month or so on my stick mod. I recently obtained the Mayflash F500 (Same shape/style as the Venom and v2) and I have some questions. I bought a Sanwa stick/buttons which should be here this week however, I'm having trouble printing my artwork. I have a decent printer however, it doesn't support A3 sized paper. I have A3 cardstock waiting but have no way to use it. I considered printing my layout on 2 sheets of normal printer paper and smoothing it over a sheet of A3 before cutting but when printing the template, the design shrinks instead of printing 2 pages. I considered buying a bigger printer or even a print/cut machine but don't know where to look or what to look for (I live in the US and A3 paper was hard enough to find). Recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

    x8D89sM.png
  • IPestyGamingIPestyGaming Joined: Posts: 16
    Full Sanwa rebuild. (x8 OBSF30mm Pushbottons with foam silencer ring inserts, x1 OBSF24mm Pushbutton, Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT Joystick with Seimitsu Bubbletop and Sanwa Dual layer Dustwasher, and 2 extra Sanwa Balltops/OBSF30mm pushbottons.)

    [BEFORE]

    Krnyqiw.jpg
    ApCE7Uv.jpg

    [AFTER]

    mX3o1Ha.jpg
    QpkJqVz.jpg
    1QIXu7N.jpg
    9vby3Yc.jpg
    IAdfd2W.jpg
    Z25nX45.jpg

    (Now I just need to get the graphics printed and cut and take everything back out again lol)
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