The Hori PS4 VLX thread

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  • JannodudeJannodude Joined: Posts: 241
    edited April 2016
    silversx wrote: »
    does the 1mm oversize kowal actuator for jlf work in the hayabusa stick? i love everything about the hayabusa except need a shorter throw.. i notice the stock and kowal are different shape up top.. one slanted one straight..

    Read a page or two back, I believe the top of page 35. The oversized kowal actuator has tendencies to bump/get caught on the stock Hayabusa gate. I was told it works better on the Kowal octagonal gate. I may be wrong though.

    Found it:


    Jannodude wrote: »
    I heard the actuator gets caught with the restrictor. Does yours have that issue?

    The actuator did get caught on the stock hori restrictor. The kowal has a touch more clearance on the underside.
  • TaikiTaiki OH HO HOHOHOHOHO Joined: Posts: 1,029 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    So I've picked up a PS4 VLX recently(thanks, Vicko!), and I was going to wire it for Knserts, but when I was about to check out and buy them, but then I noticed the ArcEye3s. I liked what the ArcEye3 does way more than the Knserts, and they mount directly to the switches themselves. So I picked up enough for a full mod on the VLX along with enough clear CWX buttons, but then I realized the LED PCB I have isn't going to cut it. It's a FGWidget*. Which would be fine if I stuck with my Knsert plans, but I want all sorts of crazy colors.

    What are my options? Right now I'm looking at the Remora which was designed for the ArcEye3s in mind. It's for the TE/TE2. Which is kind of a hassle. I've noticed the Kaimana Kameleon board, but there seems to be no documentation for it, other than it works very well with PS360+ and configuring is done via flashing the onboard arduino. The LVT3 seems to be uniquely designed for the TE, even if the button layouts are extremely similar, mounting would be kind of a minor nightmare.

    If I go with the hassle, thanks to Jasen's work labeling the pinouts, I think I can wire it up some adapter cables? I would have to get really creative with the appropriate JST connectors. I'd also have to wire up power, but I'm thinking if I just jumper +5 from VCC from the stick to one of the unused pins(1/2/29/30, I think? 2 and 30 look like they might be connected to ground, but I can't find my multimeter to verify ) and run that pin to the power in on the Remora it'll work. I'll have to rig up Share or something(If I'm feeling really masochistic, touchpad click) as select too. But there's 3 more unused pins, so jumpering another wire for that isn't so bad.

    (* I've got a use for it; I also picked up an FG Converter and an MC Cthulhu. I'm going to wire up an everything to everything else converter. However, I want a board that'll drive debug LEDs because I know i'm going to get this wrong during the initial build.)
  • JannodudeJannodude Joined: Posts: 241
    RageousX wrote: »
    Just got my hitbox panel in from @Jasen Hicks, complete with the artwork template I created from scratch to replicate the stock look as closely as possible. Smoke Sanwas for now, though I may toss in my GamerFinger set until PAS can do up some OBX-MX in 24mm.

    rf5OZq5.jpg

    I also have the Brook PCB adapter and daughterboard template to make this a definitive piece of work. Did anyone ever figure out any options for etching the 19mm buttons?

    That's incredible in my eyes.. I envisioned something similar to your idea and you actually turned it into reality. If you don't mind, can I have that same layout?(so much for your originality) I'm on the fence of putting a Hitbox style layout(I was a Hitbox player for four years before selling my official Hitbox controller to acquire a VLX). I was planning on preordering the official Hitbox from their website but my wife would freak out if I purchased another gaming peripheral! BTW, your the guy that designed the Hitbox layout for Jasen's customs right?
  • VickoVicko Vegas Modder Extraordinaire! Joined: Posts: 2,830
    Taiki wrote: »
    So I've picked up a PS4 VLX recently(thanks, Vicko!), and I was going to wire it for Knserts, but when I was about to check out and buy them, but then I noticed the ArcEye3s. I liked what the ArcEye3 does way more than the Knserts, and they mount directly to the switches themselves. So I picked up enough for a full mod on the VLX along with enough clear CWX buttons, but then I realized the LED PCB I have isn't going to cut it. It's a FGWidget*. Which would be fine if I stuck with my Knsert plans, but I want all sorts of crazy colors.

    What are my options? Right now I'm looking at the Remora which was designed for the ArcEye3s in mind. It's for the TE/TE2. Which is kind of a hassle. I've noticed the Kaimana Kameleon board, but there seems to be no documentation for it, other than it works very well with PS360+ and configuring is done via flashing the onboard arduino. The LVT3 seems to be uniquely designed for the TE, even if the button layouts are extremely similar, mounting would be kind of a minor nightmare.

    If I go with the hassle, thanks to Jasen's work labeling the pinouts, I think I can wire it up some adapter cables? I would have to get really creative with the appropriate JST connectors. I'd also have to wire up power, but I'm thinking if I just jumper +5 from VCC from the stick to one of the unused pins(1/2/29/30, I think? 2 and 30 look like they might be connected to ground, but I can't find my multimeter to verify ) and run that pin to the power in on the Remora it'll work. I'll have to rig up Share or something(If I'm feeling really masochistic, touchpad click) as select too. But there's 3 more unused pins, so jumpering another wire for that isn't so bad.

    (* I've got a use for it; I also picked up an FG Converter and an MC Cthulhu. I'm going to wire up an everything to everything else converter. However, I want a board that'll drive debug LEDs because I know i'm going to get this wrong during the initial build.)

    Lol I asked if you wanted RGB or no, and you said no.

    You need a remora and arceye 3s (no start support), or you can go with Kaimana and Js (supports everything).
    SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year 2015
    Need a stick modded? I can dual mod, repair, and customize your stick or Hitbox for PS4/PS3/XB1/360

    www.vickomods.com
    lol
  • JannodudeJannodude Joined: Posts: 241
    edited April 2016
    @RageousX

    I highly appreciate it, I will let Jasen know when I order it that I want the same art as yours. Got one question. Did you use the EZ Mod along with the Brooks universal PCB? I'm trying to keep everything stock. How did you wire your buttons?

    I showed my wife your layout/art and gave it an approval if I made the buttons purple!
  • VickoVicko Vegas Modder Extraordinaire! Joined: Posts: 2,830
    edited April 2016
    Got my Jasen EZ Mod kit and I made it a hard mod. I desoldered the USB jack and screw terminals and cut a piece off the VLX PCB lid so the UFB barely sticks out the side. The 3 black wires coming out over the top of the stock wire harness is for a Kaimana, which I am currently troubleshooting. Also for those asking, the shiny stuff around the PCB box is sound deadening material. The previous owner installed it to keep the noise down.

    No flash:
    12948359_10156729267675244_311576845_o.jpg?oh=c151f4808b924610dfa394f6cbbdb662&oe=57051B8E


    With Flash:
    12959274_10156729268465244_632693154_o.jpg?oh=8969b7e087774710154a5ad646e754a3&oe=570589A3


    The aftermath:
    12966095_10156729273525244_1275094133_n.jpg?oh=e9d64cf708c56020c679375f834fdd96&oe=57051179

    SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year 2015
    Need a stick modded? I can dual mod, repair, and customize your stick or Hitbox for PS4/PS3/XB1/360

    www.vickomods.com
    lol
  • VickoVicko Vegas Modder Extraordinaire! Joined: Posts: 2,830
    edited April 2016
    Jannodude wrote: »
    @RageousX

    I highly appreciate it, one more question. Did you use the EZ Mod along with the Brooks universal PCB? I'm trying to keep everything stock. How did you wire your buttons? I showed my wife your layout/art and gave it an approval if I made the buttons purple! LMAO

    As we said before, you can get a 5 pin JLF to 8 wire button conversion harness so you don't have to snip/strip/crimp any of your stock wires.
    http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/harnesses/588-jlf-187-micro-harness.html


    Edit: crisis averted, found another source
    SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year 2015
    Need a stick modded? I can dual mod, repair, and customize your stick or Hitbox for PS4/PS3/XB1/360

    www.vickomods.com
    lol
  • JannodudeJannodude Joined: Posts: 241
    Vicko wrote: »
    Jannodude wrote: »
    @RageousX

    I highly appreciate it, one more question. Did you use the EZ Mod along with the Brooks universal PCB? I'm trying to keep everything stock. How did you wire your buttons? I showed my wife your layout/art and gave it an approval if I made the buttons purple! LMAO

    As we said before, you can get a 5 pin JLF to 8 wire button conversion harness so you don't have to snip/strip/crimp any of your stock wires.
    http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/harnesses/588-jlf-187-micro-harness.html


    Edit: crisis averted, found another source

    Your too nice, I couldn't find it to save my life.

  • RageousXRageousX Joined: Posts: 420
    Vicko wrote: »
    Jannodude wrote: »
    @RageousX

    I highly appreciate it, one more question. Did you use the EZ Mod along with the Brooks universal PCB? I'm trying to keep everything stock. How did you wire your buttons? I showed my wife your layout/art and gave it an approval if I made the buttons purple! LMAO

    As we said before, you can get a 5 pin JLF to 8 wire button conversion harness so you don't have to snip/strip/crimp any of your stock wires.
    http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/harnesses/588-jlf-187-micro-harness.html


    Edit: crisis averted, found another source
    Not sure which one you originally linked to, but I have a small cache of honestly kinda crappy quality harnesses from arcadeforge.net. The PAS one is .187 terminals, so you'd have to strip those and put .110s in. If PAS or JCC offered that same harness in .110 out the door, that would be nifty as fuck and I'd buy 10 of them just to keep around for all the hitboxes I make for friends.
    SFV - Mika
    USFIV - Makoto, Evil Ryu
    3rd Strike - Makoto
    UMvC3 - Viper/Dante/Strider
    Tekken 7 - Leo
  • VickoVicko Vegas Modder Extraordinaire! Joined: Posts: 2,830
    Jasen and I were just talking about that.

    Yeah .187 sucks but it's still doable.
    SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year 2015
    Need a stick modded? I can dual mod, repair, and customize your stick or Hitbox for PS4/PS3/XB1/360

    www.vickomods.com
    lol
  • RageousXRageousX Joined: Posts: 420
    It's going to be necessary soon enough. The more panels like these we see, the more people will be interested in swapping them in to try out... but you need that .110 harness that jacks into the stock JLF cable to keep from having to tear apart your stock wiring. Unless I'm wiring directly into a Brook or PS360+, I always use an ArcadeForge harness.
    SFV - Mika
    USFIV - Makoto, Evil Ryu
    3rd Strike - Makoto
    UMvC3 - Viper/Dante/Strider
    Tekken 7 - Leo
  • JannodudeJannodude Joined: Posts: 241
    RageousX wrote: »
    Vicko wrote: »
    Jannodude wrote: »
    @RageousX

    I highly appreciate it, one more question. Did you use the EZ Mod along with the Brooks universal PCB? I'm trying to keep everything stock. How did you wire your buttons? I showed my wife your layout/art and gave it an approval if I made the buttons purple! LMAO

    As we said before, you can get a 5 pin JLF to 8 wire button conversion harness so you don't have to snip/strip/crimp any of your stock wires.
    http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/harnesses/588-jlf-187-micro-harness.html


    Edit: crisis averted, found another source
    Not sure which one you originally linked to, but I have a small cache of honestly kinda crappy quality harnesses from arcadeforge.net. The PAS one is .187 terminals, so you'd have to strip those and put .110s in. If PAS or JCC offered that same harness in .110 out the door, that would be nifty as fuck and I'd buy 10 of them just to keep around for all the hitboxes I make for friends.

    You basically have to strip and crimp your own quick disconnects? I apologize for being completely noobish. I work in a field completely far from electronics.

    Thanks,
    Jan
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,358
    Jannodude wrote: »
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Jannodude wrote: »
    Vicko wrote: »
    take out your buttons and stick, unscrew like 6 screws under your CP, donezo

    Thanks! One more noob question. If I use the EZ MOD and Brooks PCB, what would be the best way to wire up the buttons while keeping everything stock?

    You already answered your own question. The EZ Mod does just that, keeping your wiring stock.


    Jannodude wrote: »
    Vicko wrote: »
    take out your buttons and stick, unscrew like 6 screws under your CP, donezo

    Thanks! One more noob question. If I use the EZ MOD and Brooks PCB, what would be the best way to wire up the buttons while keeping everything stock?

    Check this latest install video out:

    No mods to any cables, 100% reversible. I'd like all EZMODs to be this way, but some companies decided that wires need to be soldered to boards. Fortunately, I have ways around that in most cases :)

    Sorry, I should have written my question with more detail. I'm talking about wiring up the buttons for a Hitbox style layout. Using four buttons for directional input. I notice when using the EZ mod everything is plug and play for a normal button/stick swap(in Jasen's video at 22:40 section). Would I have to somehow daisy chain the direction inputs as I wouldn't be able to use the stock button/joystick harness?

    Thanks for the kind and prompt answers.
    Jannodude wrote: »
    RageousX wrote: »
    Vicko wrote: »
    Jannodude wrote: »
    @RageousX

    I highly appreciate it, one more question. Did you use the EZ Mod along with the Brooks universal PCB? I'm trying to keep everything stock. How did you wire your buttons? I showed my wife your layout/art and gave it an approval if I made the buttons purple! LMAO

    As we said before, you can get a 5 pin JLF to 8 wire button conversion harness so you don't have to snip/strip/crimp any of your stock wires.
    http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/harnesses/588-jlf-187-micro-harness.html


    Edit: crisis averted, found another source
    Not sure which one you originally linked to, but I have a small cache of honestly kinda crappy quality harnesses from arcadeforge.net. The PAS one is .187 terminals, so you'd have to strip those and put .110s in. If PAS or JCC offered that same harness in .110 out the door, that would be nifty as fuck and I'd buy 10 of them just to keep around for all the hitboxes I make for friends.

    You basically have to strip and crimp your own quick disconnects? I apologize for being completely noobish. I work in a field completely far from electronics.

    Thanks,
    Jan


    Yes, that's correct. I think I still have some packs of 50 for $4.95 each.
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year Co-Recipient

    Have a question? Use the JASENSCUSTOMS HELP DESK

    - Jasen's Customs Facebook, it's where the pictures are: Facebook
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  • 2hype2hype Joined: Posts: 18
    silversx wrote: »
    does the 1mm oversize kowal actuator for jlf work in the hayabusa stick? i love everything about the hayabusa except need a shorter throw.. i notice the stock and kowal are different shape up top.. one slanted one straight..

    I have the 1mm oversize kowal actuator and the octagonal gate. It works perfect so far, but the actuator is made of a very soft plastic so the gate is eating it up. The actuator is starting to build up a large gash along the side. I can see the gash on the actuator getting large enough to get stuck on the gate. I think an aluminum gate would work better, I'm sure someone out there makes one.
  • AriesnoAriesno Seimitsu's warrior Joined: Posts: 407
    Best way to reduce throw with octo gate on Hayabusa is above the stock gate , use longer screw like this :

    CYT3qW_WEAA4BIw.jpg
  • JannodudeJannodude Joined: Posts: 241
    edited April 2016
    Ordered my Hitbox panel with RageousX artwork from Jasen. Now I just have to wait for the Arcadeshock's EZ Mod and Brook PCB combo.
  • silversxsilversx Joined: Posts: 6
    does the 1mm oversize kowal actuator for jlf work in the hayabusa stick? i love everything about the hayabusa except need a shorter throw.. i notice the stock and kowal are different shape up top.. one slanted one straight..
    Ariesno wrote: »
    Best way to reduce throw with octo gate on Hayabusa is above the stock gate , use longer screw like this :

    CYT3qW_WEAA4BIw.jpg

    wait.. so get the kowal octogate and put it on top of the stock gate? is the real gate still square or octo? this shortens the throw? does it make for faster engage of the switches that an actuator would?

    What size screws if you have the info.. thanks
  • AriesnoAriesno Seimitsu's warrior Joined: Posts: 407
    edited April 2016
    Engage not change, actuator only can hit the octo gate and throw is shorter , need same kind of screw just little longer.
    Maybe it can work with Kowal actuator too i never try.
  • JannodudeJannodude Joined: Posts: 241
    Vicko wrote: »
    Jasen and I were just talking about that.

    Yeah .187 sucks but it's still doable.

    I found this:
    https://www.focusattack.com/187-to-5-pin-conversion-harness/

    Would it work also?

    Thanks,
    Jan

  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,358
    That's the same thing Vick referenced above at PAS. The .187 are bigger than Sanwa QDCs which are .110
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
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    Have a question? Use the JASENSCUSTOMS HELP DESK

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  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,358
    I used both .187 to 5-pin Conversion Harness from both PAS and Focus Attack.
    They both do the exact same thing and perform the same way.

    I do found that the 90 degree bend in the 5 pin header of the PAS harness makes it easier to route wire with.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • JannodudeJannodude Joined: Posts: 241
    edited April 2016
    @Darksakul @Jasen Hicks @RageousX @Vicko Thanks for the prompt responses!
  • hashratehashrate Joined: Posts: 150
    quick question regarding the VLX design. Does anybody else feel that there is not enough wrist/arm support on the VLX? I am comparing it to a Mad Catz TE2 and Hori Edge. I, personally, like to have a little bit more room to rest my wrists while i have the joystick in my hands and buttons at my finger tips. The VLX is awesome, but just gets a bit uncomfortable after a while. I have both the Kuro VLX and the Hayabusa VLX, and I am so tempted to just sell them for a TE2+ and a Panzer. When I am gaming on my PC, my desk goes so far back so that both my entire forearms(incl elbows) can rest on the desk while my hands are on the mouse and keyboard. This is the same concept with how I prefer my fightsticks. Of course this is purely my personal preference, but I just wish the VLX was a little bit wider for more wrist support.

    I appreciate any insight as to why certain fightstick layouts are as they are.
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,358
    I think k the VLX is closer to the Vewlix cabinet design where you don't have a lot of wrist room.

    Here's my Vewlix cab / hand for reference.

    EJx97IU.jpg
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year Co-Recipient

    Have a question? Use the JASENSCUSTOMS HELP DESK

    - Jasen's Customs Facebook, it's where the pictures are: Facebook
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  • hashratehashrate Joined: Posts: 150
    Yeah I agree, the Hori Vewlix is based on the Vewlix arcade cabinet where it gives you just enough room to rest the palm of your hand. This is not so bad for a couple of rounds, but after a while my dangling elbows don't like it. Sometimes I can sit in a way so that my thighs are directly under my elbows for support, but that isn't too comfortable for extended periods as well.
    It seems to me that since the Vewlix is originally a coin-op cab, there were no intentions for 1 person to be sitting in that position for an extended period of time, as would a gamer at home on their own device.
    It's like, I want to keep both of my VLXs, but if I can't get comfortable playing on them for hours then is it worth it? Sorry for my Complaining, I just hate when I buy an awesome product only to realize it isn't practical for me. Maybe I will keep 1 of them so that when I take a trip to Japan, I can get some good practice in on a Vewlix setup to prepare for the Vewlix cabinets.
  • hashratehashrate Joined: Posts: 150
    I'm gonna mess around in Creo and model a Vewlix control panel variant to decrease it's length but increase its width. Kind of like a Vewlix Home version, or Vewlix Tendinitis version lmao.
  • mR_CaESaRmR_CaESaR Joined: Posts: 722
    edited April 2016
    So I'm officially all excited like a little kid in a candy store – I placed my order for the Hori VLX Hayabusa this morning from Amazon Japan! :)

    Hopefully in my next pay, I can order the Kuro from Amazon Germany!

    Sucks to be in Australia, the shipping costs I'd be paying for the Hayabusa and Kuro could probably net me another VLX :(

    The EZ Mod is also on the way as well as the Brook UFB! Making the VLX a one stop arcade with PS3/PS4/X360/XONE/PC compability :)

    Once I get the Hayabusa and Kuro, it'll be a hunt for the VLX Diamond (maybe when I get my tax return)
  • PerkolatorPerkolator sernic berm Joined: Posts: 140
    hashrate wrote: »
    quick question regarding the VLX design. Does anybody else feel that there is not enough wrist/arm support on the VLX? I am comparing it to a Mad Catz TE2 and Hori Edge. I, personally, like to have a little bit more room to rest my wrists while i have the joystick in my hands and buttons at my finger tips. The VLX is awesome, but just gets a bit uncomfortable after a while. I have both the Kuro VLX and the Hayabusa VLX, and I am so tempted to just sell them for a TE2+ and a Panzer. When I am gaming on my PC, my desk goes so far back so that both my entire forearms(incl elbows) can rest on the desk while my hands are on the mouse and keyboard. This is the same concept with how I prefer my fightsticks. Of course this is purely my personal preference, but I just wish the VLX was a little bit wider for more wrist support.

    I appreciate any insight as to why certain fightstick layouts are as they are.

    a lot of it is preference. i felt the same way, and i actually play with my VLX on a table, so its a little higher up, and a TE2/FE on lap. with the VLX up a little higher, my palm stays resting on the curved part and fingers do all the work (my palms actually sweat way less with the VLX, as theres more air between my palm and the surface of the stick, whereas on the FE my palm is always a sweaty mess because of the hot pocket of air that the flat surface can create.

    that said: the standard VLX button positioning is a bit cramped for my hands, so i'm working on some art and will be ordering one of Jasen's panels with the Sega P2 layout.
  • RagingAvatarRagingAvatar Joined: Posts: 61
    Until I recently got my VLX Hayabusa I used a TE2 as my main stick.
    Yeah, I agree, the VLX doesn't have enough wrist support, not helped by the button layout that requires a quite unnatural turn in the right wrist.
    I recently swapped my panel out for Jasen's Sega P2 layout and it feels like a whole new experience. There's no going back now. This is my main stick. It's amazing.

    I only wish I'd designed and printed some nice art like Jannodude above - I miss my art - but I was so worried that the panel would go out of stock on Jasen's site!

    Jasen, what printing methods and materials do you use for printing on the panel? I might need to look into doing it myself. (Or would I be able to order just the print and apply it myself? Is that feasible do you think?)
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,358
    Until I recently got my VLX Hayabusa I used a TE2 as my main stick.
    Yeah, I agree, the VLX doesn't have enough wrist support, not helped by the button layout that requires a quite unnatural turn in the right wrist.
    I recently swapped my panel out for Jasen's Sega P2 layout and it feels like a whole new experience. There's no going back now. This is my main stick. It's amazing.

    I only wish I'd designed and printed some nice art like Jannodude above - I miss my art - but I was so worried that the panel would go out of stock on Jasen's site!

    Jasen, what printing methods and materials do you use for printing on the panel? I might need to look into doing it myself. (Or would I be able to order just the print and apply it myself? Is that feasible do you think?)

    I can print you one up. Its not hard to install. Just a little spray bottle with some water/few drops of palmolive. Spray it onto the panel liberally, place the graphic, squeeze out the water using a credit card working center out. Hit me up in a few days with ready art and we can work it out.

    Jasen
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year Co-Recipient

    Have a question? Use the JASENSCUSTOMS HELP DESK

    - Jasen's Customs Facebook, it's where the pictures are: Facebook
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  • anzharanzhar five times Joined: Posts: 993
    I also feel there is not enough wrist support on VLX , I've only got last gen but I believe they the same she'll

    The og hrap's and TE's are much better for comfort
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,494
    I'm also with the camp that feels that more wrist support is needed on the VLX.
    But the rest of the stick casing is just SO DAMN GORGEOUS, it makes up for it. :)
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • AlerhanAlerhan Joined: Posts: 92
    I think im in the weirdo camp that actually likes the little amount of space you get with the vlx. I actually like the hrap and vlx cases over the fighting edge and madcatz sticks because theres less room for your wrist :/. They also have this sloping down angle which i find pretty comfortable.
  • TenshoTensho Joined: Posts: 2,866
    I don't mind the wrist room on the VLX that much as my palms always are on the slanted metal part but my most comfortable stick is the original Hrap shell(Hrap1/2/3)
  • JannodudeJannodude Joined: Posts: 241
    edited April 2016
    The space doesn't really bother me. Ergonomically, you want your wrist neutral to prevent carpal tunnel or other wrist injuries. When I play on my lap, the stick naturally slants downward. My elbows are slightly larger than 90° and wrists neutral. Everyone is different though!
  • braves01braves01 Joined: Posts: 34
    edited April 2016
    I've got no real problems with the VLX and wrist space at all....but the FE is far and away the most comfortable stick out there, imo, in terms of wrist and hand space.
  • hashratehashrate Joined: Posts: 150
    Thanks for the feedback guys, ill give em some more play time in different positions to see if i can find something comfortable. These things are built so well and look soo good that it is difficult for me to part with them even if I dont want to use them haha.
  • TaikiTaiki OH HO HOHOHOHOHO Joined: Posts: 1,029 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    Vicko wrote: »
    Lol I asked if you wanted RGB or no, and you said no.

    You need a remora and arceye 3s (no start support), or you can go with Kaimana and Js (supports everything).

    Yeah, my bad. lol I didn't want RGB until I saw the ArcEye 3 demo video. I'm thinking either Kaimana with a Brook+EZMod, as that'll be easiest(I think there's enough height in the case to stack all three boards, the EZmod board doesn't add a ton of height), or a Remora with a purpose built harness as it'd be cheaper.

    You can get start+select support out of the remora if you just wire buttons and mount them in the spare button holder(Or reroute something as select through the harness). Might not be the cleanest solution, and you'll need to open up the stick everytime you want to reset your LEDs, but it's a solution.
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