The Hori PS4 VLX thread

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  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,500
    Find the 5V pin on the EZMOD board or the UFB, and connect it directly to there.
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,359
    Okay guys.

    I have the red Hayabusa stick Vewlix, with Jasen's EZMOD/Brook UFB board (and a rather lovely Astro P2 panel) - but I want to put a HORI Optical Hayabusa in it.

    Now, I know you guys will understand. I don't want to do anything permanently damaging to my Vewlix - I like it so it can be returned to stock whenever I like..
    How do I power the Optical Hayabusa?
    It came with a 6-pin stick cable but obviously the regular Hayabusa is 5..

    I know I can cut cables and splice them together etc. but I'd like an idea that doesn't involve me damaging the original parts.

    1. Take the included 6 pin and extend all the wires with some solder and shrink flex.

    2. Zip tie them to the existing harness (so it looks clean and opens and shuts easily after install.

    4. Screw into the Brook UFB screw terminals. I run them under the board (between the UFB and EZ MOD) and screw them into the terminals. White should be +5V

    5. Plug it into the Optical.


    I did a couple of these installs with the EZ MOD at EVO 2016 and it was pretty straight forward and easy the way I mentioned it above. The "hardest" part is the soldering of the wires together.
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  • RagingAvatarRagingAvatar Joined: Posts: 61
    lol of course. Thanks guys - seems obvious now. Dream stick almost complete.
  • ArcticSinArcticSin Joined: Posts: 1
    http://imgur.com/a/XGPsD

    My modded VLX, using parts from focus attack, arcade shock and paradise arcade

    Changed the buttons out for sanwa clear/gold, changed the hori hayabusa to a hori hayabusa silent optical, put in kaimana LED's and a brook UFB

    still want to get an LED battop somehow and change the panel to a sega layout if possible
  • RagingAvatarRagingAvatar Joined: Posts: 61
    t7PoLJl.jpg

    I've just added my Hayabusa Optical to my stick too.
    Please no judgement on my wiring - I'd never even used a heat gun or wrapped wires before - so it was a bit nerve wracking for me :)

    My stick is a Hori RAP VLX Hayabusa.
    It's been fit with Jasen's EZ-Mod kit for the Brook UFB and Jasen's Astro City P2 panel (which I LOVE).

    Everything has been managed to be installed in such a way that it could all be returned to stock if I want.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,382
    edited August 3
    http://i.imgur.com/t7PoLJl.jpg

    I've just added my Hayabusa Optical to my stick too.
    Please no judgement on my wiring - I'd never even used a heat gun or wrapped wires before - so it was a bit nerve wracking for me :)

    My stick is a Hori RAP VLX Hayabusa.
    It's been fit with Jasen's EZ-Mod kit for the Brook UFB and Jasen's Astro City P2 panel (which I LOVE).

    Everything has been managed to be installed in such a way that it could all be returned to stock if I want.

    Your wire splicing is text book, so no hate here.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • VarmintBabyVarmintBaby Joined: Posts: 550
    edited August 6
    Hori VLX Image[/img]

    I've just added my Hayabusa Optical to my stick too.
    Please no judgement on my wiring - I'd never even used a heat gun or wrapped wires before - so it was a bit nerve wracking for me :)

    My stick is a Hori RAP VLX Hayabusa.
    It's been fit with Jasen's EZ-Mod kit for the Brook UFB and Jasen's Astro City P2 panel (which I LOVE).

    Everything has been managed to be installed in such a way that it could all be returned to stock if I want.

    @RagingAvatar Is your cable door broken too? I swear, for as expensive these sticks are, Hori decided to use a cheap piece of shit door to contain the cable. That thing breaks off so easily it's ridiculous. It's rare to see one still intact. LOL.
    "Play the game to learn not to win. Do this and winning will start to come all on its own." - some smart guy
  • RagingAvatarRagingAvatar Joined: Posts: 61
    No, sorry mines fine - I just remove it whenever I need to open it. As you say, it's so flimsy, I live in fear!
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,382
    Hori VLX Image[/img]

    I've just added my Hayabusa Optical to my stick too.
    Please no judgement on my wiring - I'd never even used a heat gun or wrapped wires before - so it was a bit nerve wracking for me :)

    My stick is a Hori RAP VLX Hayabusa.
    It's been fit with Jasen's EZ-Mod kit for the Brook UFB and Jasen's Astro City P2 panel (which I LOVE).

    Everything has been managed to be installed in such a way that it could all be returned to stock if I want.

    @RagingAvatar Is your cable door broken too? I swear, for as expensive these sticks are, Hori decided to use a cheap piece of shit door to contain the cable. That thing breaks off so easily it's ridiculous. It's rare to see one still intact. LOL.

    Everyone has bad cable compartment doors. Hori has bad doors, mad cats has bad doors,
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,183
    Qanba has bad doors too. Even the new Obsidians have reports of snapped doors..
  • ausomecrawlausomecrawl Joined: Posts: 92
    Maybe I'm too gentle with my fightsticks. I have 3 vlx, 6 madcatz te, hori fighting edge ps3, and a few hori ps4 sticks. I've managed to without breaking a door. Fingers crossed. I don't have any qanba sticks through.
  • LLeg3ndLLeg3nd Always Eating Joined: Posts: 266
    Maybe I'm too gentle with my fightsticks. I have 3 vlx, 6 madcatz te, hori fighting edge ps3, and a few hori ps4 sticks. I've managed to without breaking a door. Fingers crossed. I don't have any qanba sticks through.

    All of my Horis and Madcatz stick doors aren't broken but most of them fall off so easily. Still pretty poor imo.
    twitch.tv/lleg3nd
  • StrtFghtrMstrStrtFghtrMstr SRnk1VaBeachAlphaTeam Joined: Posts: 534 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    Yeah sliding doors, spring loaded, magnetic locks, a lot of design options left just adds a few dollars in cost. A new Hori w\a detachable USBs with bottom plate housing like PS2 sticks had would work well too.
    Just a veteran player enjoying competitive SFV & the CPT
    -Kaillera veteran (GodWeapon Anti3d)
    -SFA3 Replay Tournament Champion (21-0)
    -Sticks & Setups currently owned
    -Namco w/HFC/SilentKuros/SilentHayabusa-Zippys
    -Namco stock
    -VLX 360 w/JLF+Silent Zippy&uSW mod/OBS-MX Reds+Silent O-Rings/Qanba/Seimetsu/PCBs360VX+HFC4, Jansen x5 19MM Turbo Panel
    -VLX 360 Stock
    -TE-S Six-Axis PCB w/ShinJN adapter
    -H2H setups: Zowie RLH2460HT, Asus VX238H-W & Monoprice 8204
  • anzharanzhar five times Joined: Posts: 998
    I only need to open the door on my VLX'S when I charge them, which is every couple months at the moment (work and family reduce my proper game time), I played an hour of HD remix with my Diamond just now and it had 2 bars after sitting there for 6 weeks!
  • StrtFghtrMstrStrtFghtrMstr SRnk1VaBeachAlphaTeam Joined: Posts: 534 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    anzhar wrote: »
    I only need to open the door on my VLX'S when I charge them, which is every couple months at the moment (work and family reduce my proper game time), I played an hour of HD remix with my Diamond just now and it had 2 bars after sitting there for 6 weeks!

    Yea the DS3 batteries have a much better lifetime then DS4's. You could even put a small battery charger in the door with your wireless sticks :)
    Just a veteran player enjoying competitive SFV & the CPT
    -Kaillera veteran (GodWeapon Anti3d)
    -SFA3 Replay Tournament Champion (21-0)
    -Sticks & Setups currently owned
    -Namco w/HFC/SilentKuros/SilentHayabusa-Zippys
    -Namco stock
    -VLX 360 w/JLF+Silent Zippy&uSW mod/OBS-MX Reds+Silent O-Rings/Qanba/Seimetsu/PCBs360VX+HFC4, Jansen x5 19MM Turbo Panel
    -VLX 360 Stock
    -TE-S Six-Axis PCB w/ShinJN adapter
    -H2H setups: Zowie RLH2460HT, Asus VX238H-W & Monoprice 8204
  • TenshoTensho Joined: Posts: 2,866
    I'm not sure what part on these doors break first, the top closing mechanism or the bottom 2 pegs, but some sort of magnet to close it would be neat.
  • VarmintBabyVarmintBaby Joined: Posts: 550
    Tensho wrote: »
    I'm not sure what part on these doors break first, the top closing mechanism or the bottom 2 pegs, but some sort of magnet to close it would be neat.

    From what I've seen, when it gets dropped even a short distance, one of the little pegs breaks off. They should have just made those pegs bigger and stronger.
    "Play the game to learn not to win. Do this and winning will start to come all on its own." - some smart guy
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,183
    edited August 12
    I'm actually surprised that people on here haven't been forthcoming with attempts to reproduce and share CAD files of these doors...or at least sell 3D prints.
    Post edited by jopamo on
  • Minotaur64Minotaur64 Joined: Posts: 225
    recently the sega lindbergh cabinet has become the apple of my eye. has anyone here done-up their stick to look like a lindbergh cabinet? I'm thinking of doing this but would love to see pics from anyone whose done this. Hell, i just want more vlx pics from everyone whose done something to their stick. Mine is still stock (except for adding sanwa parts)
  • TenshoTensho Joined: Posts: 2,866
    Pretty sure Darksakul has Lindbergh art on his VLX but the image seems to be down
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,382
    edited August 16
    Tensho wrote: »
    Pretty sure Darksakul has Lindbergh art on his VLX but the image seems to be down

    That I do

    I have to double check if I still have the file.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • ShoryukenIsShitShoryukenIsShit Joined: Posts: 6
    Hi.

    I'm thinking about buying a VLX Kuro and replacing the PCB with a a PS360+ to get rid of the input lag. Does anybody know if that's viable and if so would it be hard to do?
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,500
    Hi.

    I'm thinking about buying a VLX Kuro and replacing the PCB with a a PS360+ to get rid of the input lag. Does anybody know if that's viable and if so would it be hard to do?
    1) Why would it not be viable? You're replace one PCB with another.
    2) It's not hard, but can be made EXTRA easy with @Jasen Hicks' UFB EZ Mod board. I had that discussion with Jasen earlier in this thread starting here.
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • BraintrashBraintrash Joined: Posts: 72
    The art is a very good idea. One of the best I have seen in YEARS.
    Well done and congrats!
  • ausomecrawlausomecrawl Joined: Posts: 92
    albertino wrote: »
    Finally finished my VLX mod project - big thanks to Jasen for parts and advice and RageousX for the help realising the art, and others that offered suggestions earlier in this thread. Got a lot of help from plastic and sign suppliers here in the UK too.

    Wanted to maintain the finish of the vanilla top as much as possible. Had an idea to blend some ST art with the original stick art.

    So after a lot of chasing, changing suppliers, and failed attempts, I finally managed to decently recreate the silver/reflective elements, and set the print behind acrylic (plexi), using the Sega 1p six button layout.



    Can say more about how it was done and what made it fail at the first few attempts if anyone's interested

    PS: Got a Brook UFB + EZmod in there too :)


    I'm interested in learning more on this! Please elaborate.
  • VarmintBabyVarmintBaby Joined: Posts: 550
    @albertino How did you get a plexi on the VLX?
    "Play the game to learn not to win. Do this and winning will start to come all on its own." - some smart guy
  • RagingAvatarRagingAvatar Joined: Posts: 61
    @albertino That is gorgeous mate! Please share how you did the plexi!
  • albertinoalbertino Joined: Posts: 19
    edited September 21
    Thanks!

    It's constructed of a few layers:
    1. 2mm acrylic
    2. Printable and transparent membrane (also with permanent adhesive on the top side)
    3. Chrome vinyl (double sided permanent adhesive)
    4. Base plate

    Tried to do it on a budget so went for chrome vinyl instead of the expensive fully-mirrored stuff (I figured having the plexi would turn this more or less into a mirror).

    Had to provide a vector drawing of the layout to enable the suppliers to cut the plastic.

    The most challenging aspects that led to failed attempts were:
    • Finding a chrome vinyl where the adhesive didn't mottle too much
    • Getting the ink flow right on the membrane to prevent the chrome coming through and making it look purple
    • Lining up the print with the plastic was easy but then lining that up perfectly with the base plate was a challenge
    • Cracking plastic!

    I originally went for 1mm plexi but as soon as I popped a button in, and due to very slight misalignment it cracked the top sheet (a low point!). Acrylic is great for a more scratch-proof surface but it is more brittle than other types. So settled at a stronger 2mm thickness and also managed to align things better. I've noticed since that the vanilla top's plastic holes are slightly larger - only for the button holes. This is surely to alleviate this lateral pressure so if I ever decide to have another go I'll try expanding the hole size slightly on the vector file. Since learning this I sanded the button hole edges slightly so they taper more - I figure this will minimise pressure.

    2mm plexi definitely feels raised but it's no biggy - makes the VLX feel somehow even more substantial :D

    Also I would look at reverse-printing on the plexi itself. Only reason I didn't go for this is that I was use two different companies initially - one for the plastic cut and the other for everything else. The plastic company turned out to be unreliable and inaccurate though - a massive cause of delay.

    It's all mounted on one of Jasen's 6 button panels - picked up a scratch-and-dent one which was perfect for this :)

    In the right light and angles it can still look a bit purply and the mirrored areas are not as clean as the vanilla top but they're damn close. Purposefully managed to capture this in this pic to try and show this:

    zT4Xwgx.jpg

    A bit tempted to try some of the things above and have another go one day but happy with it for now.
    Post edited by albertino on
  • EvilRyuXEvilRyuX Buttered Toast. Joined: Posts: 713 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    Newegg is currently selling the VLX Kuro (PS4/PS3/PC) for $269, until Thursday, if someone wants to snag one.

    https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16879994059&ignorebbr=1
    (((1st Av by ytwojay))) (((Graffiti Av by Nastradamus)))

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  • ShoryukenIsShitShoryukenIsShit Joined: Posts: 6
    Hi. I'm looking to buy a Seimitsu LS-32 for my VLX. Shopping through ArcadeShock I realized the LS-32 Sticks come in two different plates. The SS and SE one. This scared me as I don't know if it'll fit my VLX. Does anybody know which one is the right one?

    Any help is appreciated.
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,500
    Hi. I'm looking to buy a Seimitsu LS-32 for my VLX. Shopping through ArcadeShock I realized the LS-32 Sticks come in two different plates. The SS and SE one. This scared me as I don't know if it'll fit my VLX. Does anybody know which one is the right one?

    Any help is appreciated.

    For the VLX, you'll need the SS plate.
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • ShoryukenIsShitShoryukenIsShit Joined: Posts: 6
    edited October 6
    Hi. I'm looking to buy a Seimitsu LS-32 for my VLX. Shopping through ArcadeShock I realized the LS-32 Sticks come in two different plates. The SS and SE one. This scared me as I don't know if it'll fit my VLX. Does anybody know which one is the right one?

    Any help is appreciated.

    For the VLX, you'll need the SS plate.
    Hi. Bought the SS plate. The holes don't match so I can't nail it at all. Are you certain it's the SS? I'm pretty ignorant about these things.
    Post edited by ShoryukenIsShit on
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,500
    Hi. I'm looking to buy a Seimitsu LS-32 for my VLX. Shopping through ArcadeShock I realized the LS-32 Sticks come in two different plates. The SS and SE one. This scared me as I don't know if it'll fit my VLX. Does anybody know which one is the right one?

    Any help is appreciated.

    For the VLX, you'll need the SS plate.
    Hi. Bought the SS plate. The holes don't match so I can't nail it at all. Are you certain it's the SS? I'm pretty ignorant about these things.
    100% sure it's the SS plate, since that's what I used in mine. If I remember correctly, you may have to install it (the plate) 90 degrees rotated (just like in Mad Catz sticks).

    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • ShoryukenIsShitShoryukenIsShit Joined: Posts: 6
    100% sure it's the SS plate, since that's what I used in mine. If I remember correctly, you may have to install it (the plate) 90 degrees rotated (just like in Mad Catz sticks).
    Well it doesn't match at all. If I try to install it vertically, only the half of every hole fits, so I can't nail them. If I try to install it horizontally, there's no holes to drill at all. Would you care to post a photo of how yours is installed?
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,382
    How my LS--40 is mounted into my VLX

    EZJQDOo.jpg

    You got to use the middle hole, not the corner holes and only use two screws.
    Don't worry the joystick mounts fine and it is just as stable.

    I screwed the spare two screws into the white plastic plate.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • ShoryukenIsShitShoryukenIsShit Joined: Posts: 6
    Darksakul wrote: »
    How my LS--40 is mounted into my VLX

    EZJQDOo.jpg

    You got to use the middle hole, not the corner holes and only use two screws.
    Don't worry the joystick mounts fine and it is just as stable.

    I screwed the spare two screws into the white plastic plate.

    That works! thank you very much!
  • Minotaur64Minotaur64 Joined: Posts: 225
    So I acquired an original PS3 vlx. It has some paint rubbed off where the previous owner rested his hand. What's the go to solution? Paint the whole thing? What kind of paint is best. Any info/input would be appreciated
  • asiangrafxasiangrafx Joined: Posts: 196
    Minotaur64 wrote: »
    So I acquired an original PS3 vlx. It has some paint rubbed off where the previous owner rested his hand. What's the go to solution? Paint the whole thing? What kind of paint is best. Any info/input would be appreciated

    powder coating is probably the best solution
  • ausomecrawlausomecrawl Joined: Posts: 92
    Minotaur64 wrote: »
    So I acquired an original PS3 vlx. It has some paint rubbed off where the previous owner rested his hand. What's the go to solution? Paint the whole thing? What kind of paint is best. Any info/input would be appreciated

    Did you buy that one off eBay about 1 or so ago?
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