Korean arcade parts discussion

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  • slaycruzslaycruz Joined: Posts: 1,320
    Out of curiosity... Does anyone here have a red Taeyong Fanta they'd be willing to part with? I know its a long shot..but I have to ask lol.
    Previous signature removed per hakdizzles request in order to obtain voltech stick.....
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,845
    STK wrote: »
    does the conventional bottom change the performance at all? and what the difference in having an heaver bottom? is that like having a tight or loose spring?

    Like the 303's bottom end looks like it's closer to the actuator whe the 307 is slightly father off. What I meant by those is that you might have to travel more to activate a switch.

    As for tension a combination of the grommet and the switches do affect a majority of the tension.

    As a side note, I got the CWL-307ST and added the silicone grommet to my hybrid 303/307 mod. Being new does make it heavier to move around. When trying wave dash and electric practice in Tekken, I saw that I wasn't performing down diagonals during wave dashes consistently. It was more or less due to the Gersung switches not cooperating. I had spare discontinued Starion switches and found the result to be better yet still wasn't consistent. Then I added Matsushita switches and it worked well. Maybe when the silicone ages, I can readd the Gersungs.
  • everythingWasBeeseverythingWasBees Full of questions Joined: Posts: 159
    So I ended up picking up a Japanese mount 307ST on a whim during EVO, since I liked how it felt much better than the JLF or American Sticks. My only issue with it though is I'm not the biggest fan of the gloss battop, and would like to switch it out for one of the matte finished Sanwa Battops. Does the 303 conversion shaft work with the 307? Also, does the conversion shaft use Sanwa dustwashers?
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,845
    So I ended up picking up a Japanese mount 307ST on a whim during EVO, since I liked how it felt much better than the JLF or American Sticks. My only issue with it though is I'm not the biggest fan of the gloss battop, and would like to switch it out for one of the matte finished Sanwa Battops. Does the 303 conversion shaft work with the 307? Also, does the conversion shaft use Sanwa dustwashers?

    Yes the conversion shaft should fit with the 307. I have one and it fits. As for dustcovers, it will fit as well
  • STKSTK In...infinite Imagination! Joined: Posts: 323
    STK wrote: »
    does the conventional bottom change the performance at all? and what the difference in having an heaver bottom? is that like having a tight or loose spring?

    Like the 303's bottom end looks like it's closer to the actuator whe the 307 is slightly father off. What I meant by those is that you might have to travel more to activate a switch.

    As for tension a combination of the grommet and the switches do affect a majority of the tension.

    As a side note, I got the CWL-307ST and added the silicone grommet to my hybrid 303/307 mod. Being new does make it heavier to move around. When trying wave dash and electric practice in Tekken, I saw that I wasn't performing down diagonals during wave dashes consistently. It was more or less due to the Gersung switches not cooperating. I had spare discontinued Starion switches and found the result to be better yet still wasn't consistent. Then I added Matsushita switches and it worked well. Maybe when the silicone ages, I can readd the Gersungs.
    THIS was actually my problem. the angles where lost to me also. Thanks for this!

    Knowledge Is My Power! My Power Is Knowledge


  • STKSTK In...infinite Imagination! Joined: Posts: 323
    do you think that a larger actuator would help with the angle
    Knowledge Is My Power! My Power Is Knowledge


  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,845
    STK wrote: »
    do you think that a larger actuator would help with the angle

    It's possible. I would consider microswitch engage too. I was using two Gersung microswitch types. Both had early and late engage respectively. Once it went from diagonals to a single direction, the late switch was prone to disengaging quickly and vice versa. Depending on your hand movement, it might or might not be prevalent.

    On a side note, Magiclab, another Korean arcade stick company is selling PS4 sticks for a decent price. The 130,000 won model has the 8 minute timeout issue found in products like the PS360+ while the 190,000 model has a Dual Shock 4 padhack. The body is all metal with powder coating similar to Jasen's Customs' Panzer Korean edition.

    http://errorstory.net/magicmall/product_list.php
  • HesAlwaysNearUsHesAlwaysNearUs Joined: Posts: 32
    I have older PS3 Saulabi 4K. And i found that even S4K with stock factory stick and buttons is much better for me then latest Mad Catz Fightstick Pro with full sanwa. I think PCB gives a lot, couse i feel input lag with my Mad Catz. S4K is much easier for combos and online, no interrupts and etc. Stock saulabi ~28mm buttons its much accurate for me then 30mm sanwa (or maybe its just PCB circumstance). And i found that sitck without restrictor feels better for my bigger hands...
    I missing more infos about input lags. Found that same stick with switching mode vs PS3/PS4 or Xbox have different input lags on each mode.
    Sorry for my english language skills ^^
  • ValanarroValanarro Joined: Posts: 24
    im interested in trying a crown 303fk, but i much prefer the matte sanwa battop. does the converter kit just allow different tops to be added, or does it alter any of the other innards? and if not, does it allow sanwa style dustwashers and shaft covers too or no?
  • slaycruzslaycruz Joined: Posts: 1,320
    Valanarro wrote: »
    im interested in trying a crown 303fk, but i much prefer the matte sanwa battop. does the converter kit just allow different tops to be added, or does it alter any of the other innards? and if not, does it allow sanwa style dustwashers and shaft covers too or no?

    Conversion shaft allows for balltops and sanwa bat tops but you will need the adapter except for the new clear bat tops...and you can use regular dust washers as well. It doesn't alter the innards since its just a shaft.
    Previous signature removed per hakdizzles request in order to obtain voltech stick.....
  • ValanarroValanarro Joined: Posts: 24
    slaycruz wrote: »
    Valanarro wrote: »
    im interested in trying a crown 303fk, but i much prefer the matte sanwa battop. does the converter kit just allow different tops to be added, or does it alter any of the other innards? and if not, does it allow sanwa style dustwashers and shaft covers too or no?

    Conversion shaft allows for balltops and sanwa bat tops but you will need the adapter except for the new clear bat tops...and you can use regular dust washers as well. It doesn't alter the innards since its just a shaft.

    awesome. will probably pick one up in the near future then. thanks
  • LifeisGood_301LifeisGood_301 MD Tekken Joined: Posts: 27
    edited August 2015
    im talking more about how the lever/shaft sits in general, specifically in myoungshins, the crowns seem to have a spring in them which prevents this. I don't mean the engage, or 'neutral zone' (those have been reiterated many times already), i just mean physically how the lever sits.

    For example, like when you have it installed in stick, just lift the body shake it, the lever wiggles freely, loosely, but it doesn't engage or anything... i guess its just generally how these sticks are. and yes performance doesn't get affected... I have a 303 and like I said, the spring sorta prevents this thing.

    im mainly just wondering if this is normal over time for you guys with myoungshin fantas.
    I'm starting to think that the wobbling has nothing to do with the actuator or the spring. I was playing with my friends myoungshin fanta at a session, and it feels much "smoother" than the 303FK (even with all my mods).

    All the myoungshin fantas I've seen have a actuator without gaps around it and the microswitches. The myoungshin seems to have a very smooth and free moving deadzone. It felt like I didn't have much resistence until I activated a microswitch. However, it hit the diagonals about the same compared to my actuator mod.

    When I remove the tape from my actuator, the crown wobbles...but in a different fashion from the myoungshin. It wobbles because it's bouncing in the space between the actuator and the microswitches. Whereas the myoungshin seems to wobble in the dead zone of the microswitches. If the actuator is in direct contact with the microswitches, I don't know why it would have such a big/free moving deadzone. The crown on the other hand is still stiff in this sense. It wants to center faster than the myoungshin (notice I said the center, not necessarily the neutral input). The spring doesn't seem to effect the stick that much either.

    I wonder what type of microswitches are in the myoungshin fanta. This could be the cause of the wobbling...as well as the grommet and housing design.

    I'll be able to dive deeper into this when I'm able to purchase a myoungshin, but for now...I'm just gonna keep trying to find ways to improve the crown 303fk (or rather make it feel more like a myoungshin).
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,845
    While not really new but apparently Crown was working on an experimental lever last year.

    http://bbs1.ruliweb.daum.net/gaia/do/ruliweb/family/2160/read?articleId=7466622&bbsId=G001&itemId=74&pageIndex=9

    From the pics, it looks like they were aiming for a newer design. Has stuff like a custom shaft capable of working with Japanese tops and a bottom end that can work with multiple microswitches. The actuator looks Sanwa-like as well.

    I don't know if its ever coming out but I love that transparent top.
  • LifeisGood_301LifeisGood_301 MD Tekken Joined: Posts: 27
    While not really new but apparently Crown was working on an experimental lever last year.

    http://bbs1.ruliweb.daum.net/gaia/do/ruliweb/family/2160/read?articleId=7466622&bbsId=G001&itemId=74&pageIndex=9

    From the pics, it looks like they were aiming for a newer design. Has stuff like a custom shaft capable of working with Japanese tops and a bottom end that can work with multiple microswitches. The actuator looks Sanwa-like as well.

    I don't know if its ever coming out but I love that transparent top.
    Nice find!
    And yeah I want to get one of those clear battops so bad.

  • parksonianparksonian Mr. Fusion Joined: Posts: 95
    I like that frosted look a lot more than Sanwa's kinda recent clear bat.
  • LifeisGood_301LifeisGood_301 MD Tekken Joined: Posts: 27
    Hey guys,
    Since the Crown 307 ST is currently being sold on FA, I was wondering if any you guys purchased one and wanted to do some testing.
    Even though I have a myoungshin now, I'd still like to know how the silicone grommet performs.
  • slaycruzslaycruz Joined: Posts: 1,320
    Hey guys,
    Since the Crown 307 ST is currently being sold on FA, I was wondering if any you guys purchased one and wanted to do some testing.
    Even though I have a myoungshin now, I'd still like to know how the silicone grommet performs.

    I have the Korean mounted one and its very similar to the myoungshin....the actuator is larger but I'm able to hit diagonals easily ...itto me it feels the same except the clicking of switches is louder...
    Previous signature removed per hakdizzles request in order to obtain voltech stick.....
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,845
    edited August 2015
    I also have the Korean mount version and I don't like it at all except for the silicone grommet. The large actuator with the more sensitive Matsushita switches don't work well together. I inserted the grommet to my Gersung-equipped regular 307 and my 303/307 hybrid; they faired much better.

    Because of switches and actuator, I had a lot of trouble returning to neutral. Almost every crouch dash I try to input didn't register a neutral unlike my other Korean levers. The regular 307 with the silicone was much more consistent.

    I wouldn't be surprised if the 309 would act as a more capable replacement.
    Post edited by The Phantomnaut on
  • Antonio-o-oAntonio-o-o Joined: Posts: 331
    I also have the Korean mount version and I don't like it at all.. The regular 307 with the silicone was much more consistent.

    I'm sorry, but did you misspeak there? Do you instead mean latex & not silicon? As far as I knew, the stock grommet of the standard 307 is latex, is it not?

  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,845
    edited August 2015
    I also have the Korean mount version and I don't like it at all.. The regular 307 with the silicone was much more consistent.

    I'm sorry, but did you misspeak there? Do you instead mean latex & not silicon? As far as I knew, the stock grommet of the standard 307 is latex, is it not?

    No. I swapped out the grommets and added comparable information after mentioning it in the first paragraph...

    I inserted the grommet to my Gersung-equipped regular 307 and my 303/307 hybrid; they faired much better.
  • Antonio-o-oAntonio-o-o Joined: Posts: 331
    Right, I got that part. I guess just reading "the regular 307", my take away was that since you were ending your post with your commentary of a stock 307FK-KMS-ST (silicon), with the suggesting that out-of-the-box it didn't register a neutral like your other K sticks, that then.. consequently, now sharing the contrast of a stock 307FK-KMS' (non silicon) out-of-the-box behavior, which was as you said "much more consistent".

    But I got you.. I got you.


  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,845
  • Antonio-o-oAntonio-o-o Joined: Posts: 331
    edited September 2015
    wazwuz wrote: »
    [img][/img]Screenshot_2015-05-26-08-44-32_zpsjmywqjty.jpg

    @wazwuz Can you tell me how one would be able to obtain one of these 60A Shore grommets for Myoungshin Fantas--stateside? Additionally I just recently became aware that you were testing silicon grommets for Myoungshin levers as well. I'd be interested in picking up the pair. And out of curiosity, have you ever tested the hardness of a Taeyoung Fanta grommet?

    Thanks

    Post edited by Antonio-o-o on
  • armi0024armi0024 Dash Cancel Expert, paradisearcadeshop.com Joined: Posts: 1,826
    If anyone wants to save a few dollars, we were able to swing some good pricing on the 307's
    http://goo.gl/S9y38I
    We also have the Korean mounts
    www.paradisearcadeshop.com Sanwa, Seimitsu and a ton of custom parts
    2015 Tech Talk Store of the Year and Product of the Year, OBS-MX buttons
    2014 Tech Talk Stick Mod of the Year, LVT3 TE2
    2013 Tech Talk Store of the Year and Product of the Year, Kaimana Led Controller
  • kkoldingkkolding Joined: Posts: 153
    nice attempt. I will post some pictures of the Fujin in detail later to help you out ;-)
    Denmark CPH
  • Antonio-o-oAntonio-o-o Joined: Posts: 331
    edited September 2015
    armi0024 wrote: »
    If anyone wants to save a few dollars, we were able to swing some good pricing on the 307's
    http://goo.gl/S9y38I
    We also have the Korean mounts

    I was hoping someone would carry the Korean collared version. Two questions: will you offer the 307 Silicon but with the Japanese/Panasonic switches instead of the Gersungs? And could you tell if there is any difference between the the white actuator you feature on those 307s versus the black actuator offered from fadc?
    kkolding wrote: »
    nice attempt. I will post some pictures of the Fujin in detail later to help you out ;-)

    Thanks. Yeah, I'm really satisfied with how it turned out. It gets the job done.

    Ohh.. and though I don't need photos to make any further mods, as there's nothing else I could recreate without full on replacing, though I am more than interested in seeing more of your v1 & v2 Fujins--absolutely. Could you give a short breakdown on the differences between the two? You own both the original & it's revision, no? I'm interested if any of the shafts that came with either v1 or v2 differ in length from the original Myoungshin. What are the grommets composed of? Color of the grommets? What's different about the actuator other than color on v2? That kind of thing.

    Speaking of breakdowns, here's a semi brief write-up on the further differences between the Myoungshin & Taeyoung that I learned over the weekend that I do not think are well documented:

    • It's well known that grommets are interchangeable from Myoungshin to Taeyoung & vice versa, but here's what they don't tell you: both the grommet and lower half of the level housing that cradles the grommet are larger on the Taeyoung than the Myoungshin's counterparts. We're talking a fraction of a mm here; it's very subtle but surely they're not identical. So are they in fact interchangeable you still ask? Yes. Though it's a snug fit when replacing the Myoungshin's grommet with the Taeyoung, though negligible. However, in the replacing of the Taeyoung grommet with the Myoungshin, this smaller Myoungshin grommet 'floats' a bit within the housing. Whether this is negligible or not, at least to me is unknown. I will say that when then reintroducing the upper portion of the housing, it helps in keeping the smaller grommet in place; though not completely, it certainly helps.
    • Additionally about the grommets, that although the outer diameter of the plastic centerpiece is identical, the inner diameter of both the Myoungshin & Taeyoung through-holes are not identical. With the former being the smaller & latter being the larger, respectively. You can thread either shaft through either grommet, though over time of repeated attempts of the Taeyoung through a Myoungshin I think will damage the centerpiece of the smaller Myoungshin. And a similar situation here, like the with the grommets, of when threading a M shaft through a T grommet it will 'swim' just a bit more here than when it's placed in it's appropriate M grommet. Now, will this impact the deadzone by using that combination? I don't know. Though quite possibly it could. Here's the good news: you can carefully interchange the plastic centerpiece between the latex grommets.
    • Now this point may face contention, but after careful consideration I must say that the interchanging between M & T peartop shaft between M & T housings is in fact negligible. Here's why I say this: yes it is well known & documented that a T peartop shaft is in fact longer, however the 'business' end of the T shaft is identical with that of the M shaft. I've read before where people stated that swapping the shafts felt "weird" or "off" but I think that may have been confirmation bias considering the perpetuity of this myth. To be fair, in their defense, they may have been drawing from the fact that the T shaft threaded through a M grommet can be problematic in removing (see above bullet point as to why), and they may have extrapolated this by saying that it caused problems perhaps. But there's no reason that it should as a joystick isn't meant to move on a Z-axis, additionally as I stated above, one can interchange the plastic centerpiece with that of the Taeyoung's to prevent this if they so choose. And also the mm or 2 taller height that the T shaft occupies may feel foreign to those very players. Now again, let me assure you that the lower portion of the T shaft, where the wheels meet the road one might say, are in fact identical. It's the same form. It's the same function.
    • The Taeyoung actuator is trash.. utter utter trash. Don't turn it upside down to gain the fraction of a mm greater of an outer diameter. Just toss it. Use a Myoungshin actuator or find another suitable replacement. I don't know how anyone played using that while expecting to execute anything.
    • And lastly, that the microswitch spacing on the Taeyoung is indeed 'tighter' than the Myoungshin. That is to say that they are more closely spaced on the T than the M. We're talking no more than a mm here, but it's certainly noticeable (visually). I'm not saying that I possess the ability to see this discrepancy with the naked eye, but one can notice the more closely orientation of the levers of the switches in relation to one another. This alone has led me to to revisit the Taeyoung. I know I've read that the degree activation is identical between the T & M, but wouldn't this fact suggest otherwise? I guess I'll learn that answer after some time with the Taeyoung (though with new medium Myoungshin grommet, M shaft, M actuator, silent D2RV-G switches, & custom 'Fujin' style sub mounting plate), now that it's reinstalled into my joystick. I will say that at the moment I'm not running back to replace it with that of the housing of the Myoungshin.
    Post edited by Antonio-o-o on
  • kkoldingkkolding Joined: Posts: 153
    The 307's should have the Japanese/Panasonic switches, atleast the one i got has them. i'm no big fan of the 307 Japanese mount tho, Korean edition all the way.

    Your on point with the breakdown superb job!
    Denmark CPH
  • kkoldingkkolding Joined: Posts: 153
    Took a few pictures of the fujin v2 insides.
    The lever it self is very tight compared to a normal myoungshin or a airbag.

    2coivkg.jpg
    efowue.jpg
    a5hl6e.jpg

    Denmark CPH
  • Antonio-o-oAntonio-o-o Joined: Posts: 331
    kkolding wrote: »
    The 307's should have the Japanese/Panasonic switches, atleast the one i got has them. i'm no big fan of the 307 Japanese mount tho, Korean edition all the way.

    You're right, they do. But over at PAS.com amongst the 307s, they offer not only the option to choose between Japanese or Korean mounting style, latex or silicone grommet, but as well they offer the option to choose between Japanese or Korean switches. It's just unfortunate for me that the combo I'd be interested in (K mount, S grommet, & J switches) isn't offered through PAS.com.. at least not now. Additionally, I absolutely agree.
    kkolding wrote: »
    Your on point with the breakdown superb job!

    Thank you thank you.


    So, now onto those photos you graciously took. First & foremost.. thank you.

    Why do you think it's more resistant than a stock Myoungshin? From looking at the grommet alone, I would think the opposite considering those 4 holes that are bored through the latex (..is it latex?). Because not only do they appear to have a larger diameter than it's stock counterpart, but they're also bored all the way through on the Fujin's, whereas the stock grommet has the 4 holes only midway bored.

    How does that smaller actuator perform? It's smaller than stock is it not? Any idea of the gram force of the switches? Do the switches themselves appear to have the identical orientation/spacing as stock or does the plate change this?

    Is there any way someone not living in Korea can obtain one of these?
  • kkoldingkkolding Joined: Posts: 153
    edited September 2015
    Why do you think it's more resistant than a stock Myoungshin? From looking at the grommet alone, I would think the opposite considering those 4 holes that are bored through the latex (..is it latex?). Because not only do they appear to have a larger diameter than it's stock counterpart, but they're also bored all the way through on the Fujin's, whereas the stock grommet has the 4 holes only midway bored.
    The rubber it self is actually a medium rubber, but feels softer then a Medium, but is not as soft as a soft rubber(hope that makes sense) The lever holder (white middle piece) makes the lever, fit in very tight so it doesn't wobble around like it does with the normal black middle piece.
    How does that smaller actuator perform? It's smaller than stock is it not? Any idea of the gram force of the switches? Do the switches themselves appear to have the identical orientation/spacing as stock or does the plate change this?
    I measured the microswitches distances compared to a normal myoungshin fanta and they seem identical. gram force on the switches I'll test later.[/quote]
    Is there any way someone not living in Korea can obtain one of these?
    As of right now he is not selling the stick's since he is out of stock but I'll check in if the stick will restock soon.

    Actually the battop lever seems bigger then a normal Myoungshin battop lever


    Denmark CPH
  • Antonio-o-oAntonio-o-o Joined: Posts: 331
    kkolding wrote: »
    The rubber it self is actually a medium rubber, but feels softer then a Medium, but is not as soft as a soft rubber(hope that makes sense) The lever holder (white middle piece) makes the lever, fit in very tight so it doesn't wobble around like it does with the normal black middle piece.

    I totally get what your'e saying; that's very interesting. Going back to what I mentioned earlier in the Myoungshin V Taeyoung breakdown, I guess threading a M shaft through a T grommet would be a bad idea. Because by that logic, it does impact the dead zone. On the flip side, I guess threading a T shaft through a M grommet would be ideal? As there is absolutely no floating in that combo.

    That white centerpiece on the Fujin appears to have a greater 'height' than that of Myoungshins or Taeyoungs. Is that true? It certainly couldn't hurt to have a greater height to help in taming deflection.

    kkolding wrote: »
    Actually the battop lever seems bigger then a normal Myoungshin battop lever

    That makes sense; it looks to be. What about the 'business end' of the peartop: where it's further milled. Is that portion longer, shorter, or identical? If I had to guess, it'd be that it's a mm or two longer to compensate for the bottom mounting place, then pushing the microswitches further south. But then again, it looks to have all the orography on the underneath of the plastic housing dremeled out/off, so maybe the shaft wouldn't need to compensate?

    kkolding wrote: »
    As of right now he is not selling the stick's since he is out of stock but I'll check in if the stick will restock soon.

    Well.. please let us all know. I'm sure I'm not the only one interested in having one--thanks.
  • hibachifinalhibachifinal 後方互換性 Joined: Posts: 1,649
    interesting, thanks @kkolding, with this i can probably furbish my own fujin, just need to get metal laser cut, or even cut leftover thick-ish ABS sheets.

    the "pivot" (white thing) seems like a snugger fit for the shaft, and clue what its made of?
  • kkoldingkkolding Joined: Posts: 153
    The hight of the white center piece, from the rubber looks the same, I will try and get some measuring equipment.
    The differences between the Airbag and Fujin for me seems only to be to the rubber center piece, and the lever bat top that is bigger. everything else is identical yes even the bottom metal plate.

    I will post some more pictures later with the original fanta airbag, since the ISTmall version isn't the same as the magiclab version.
    Denmark CPH
  • Antonio-o-oAntonio-o-o Joined: Posts: 331
    @kkolding

    So what do you suppose is the cause for this lever feeling 'tighter' than the Myoungshin, considering the microswitches are nearly identical to the Gersung A2s that are found on the M, and considering that the rubber grommet is slightly softer than the Myoungshin is reason enough to believe the contrary. What's left really to cause this extra stiffness? I can see the more fitted grommet centerpiece to perhaps 'sure-up' the lever to prevent the K stick 'wobble' and decrease deflection, but could that minor detail really be cause for the extra stiffness found on the Fujin? I just can't. What's your take on this?
  • OrochiDemonOrochiDemon Joined: Posts: 1,541
    I was thinking of getting the new 307 crown model, but I was wondering about also getting the upgrade kit from focusattack with the Gersung microswitches, but would i be able to put in the harder grommet into where the silicone one is?
  • kkoldingkkolding Joined: Posts: 153
    @kkolding

    So what do you suppose is the cause for this lever feeling 'tighter' than the Myoungshin, considering the microswitches are nearly identical to the Gersung A2s that are found on the M, and considering that the rubber grommet is slightly softer than the Myoungshin is reason enough to believe the contrary. What's left really to cause this extra stiffness? I can see the more fitted grommet centerpiece to perhaps 'sure-up' the lever to prevent the K stick 'wobble' and decrease deflection, but could that minor detail really be cause for the extra stiffness found on the Fujin? I just can't. What's your take on this?

    The reason why it feels tighter, is because the white middle piece is more compact, with the rubber and the lever. This actually makes the Fujin stick go into neutral faster then with a normal myoungshin.

    I'm actually not a big fan of it being this tight! after a few hours of playing I feel like I'm performing worse. This is probably just a matter of time, before i get used to it! I have only played with the fujin for about 10 hours total now.

    Some of my friends had the Fujin v1 and absolutely love the stick, it just took them a while to get used to it. "Side info" the last local tournament we had here in Scandinavia (Denmark/Sweden) both 1st and 2nd place had this stick, and they never placed top 5 in any tournaments before they got this stick.
    Denmark CPH
  • LifeisGood_301LifeisGood_301 MD Tekken Joined: Posts: 27
    Wow, you guys are amazing.
    It's great to see more information on these Korean mods...as well as seeing a home made mod actually being done.
    zJb4RJl.jpg
    Since the screw petrudes through the top isn't it impossible to put it into a case? (Well, maybe with some case mods) I was thinking of getting longer screws and inserting them from the top. I'm definitely going to try some mods on my myoungshin; I have a spare crown mounting plate laying around somewhere. It would probably be hard to put back into my PDP Injustice Stick though.
    It's also interesting to see how the center piece for the rubber is different. I wonder how much clamping down the mucroswitches changes the feel of the lever.
  • LifeisGood_301LifeisGood_301 MD Tekken Joined: Posts: 27
    I was thinking of getting the new 307 crown model, but I was wondering about also getting the upgrade kit from focusattack with the Gersung microswitches, but would i be able to put in the harder grommet into where the silicone one is?

    Yes. The crown silicone grommet and rubber one are the same size/fit in the same housing.
    It would be interesting to see how that combination feels.
  • J-rideJ-ride OG Member Joined: Posts: 2,272 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    I have used the Happ competition and the LS-32, would the crown square feel similar to a Comp? I am basically looking for something that feels like a comp but can fit in a jap stick. I have been pretty happy with the LS-32, it's taken a beating in the time I have had it, but nothing can stand up to an old school Happ Comp + Hard spring IMO.
    Woman was created for our destruction, and it is from her we inherit all of our miseries.

    Aramis from The Three Musketeers
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