Korean arcade parts discussion

17778808283

Comments

  • SnubnozeSnubnoze Joined: Posts: 52
    I'm surprised so many people want to add a gate to their Korean lever. For me one of my favorite aspects of switching to a K-stick was getting away from the gate.
  • LashfordLashford Joined: Posts: 7
    Well not having any diagonal guidance is probably the hardest thing to adapt to when coming from Japanese stick, and there is some advantage to square or octagonal restriction. The SDL-301 was a poor attempt at it though, I just put the circular gate on it since I found the circle-square gate so pointless.
  • AlexxTheGreaatAlexxTheGreaat Joined: Posts: 6
    @masked rider if thats the case is there another Korean style lever you have in mind that is more what im looking for in terms of having less tension when getting further away from neutral? or the the crown 309 really the best im guna get? is there a silicon with less tension than 25?
  • eyeamg0dlyeyeamg0dly Joined: Posts: 55
    i think if you want lighter, you might as well stick with a jlf. there really isnt a point in using a k lever if you want less tension. also, how long have you had your mj? it might take a week or two to break the grommet in.
  • masked ridermasked rider Henshin! Joined: Posts: 1,262
    @AlexxTheGreaat basically what @eyeamg0dly said. The 309MJ is pretty light as is. Fantas with the soft grommet might be a little bit lighter but not by much. I think for most people the whole point of switching to Korean levers is to have that stiffness in the first place. If you're coming from playing on JLFs and you haven't had your 309MJ for long, I recommend giving it more time. For me, I found it to be pretty stiff at first coming from years of playing on JLFs but probably after a few days of pretty heavy use (wavedash and EWGF practice), I decided the stock 25A grommet was way too light.
  • RokwhoRokwho Joined: Posts: 45
    @masked rider if thats the case is there another Korean style lever you have in mind that is more what im looking for in terms of having less tension when getting further away from neutral? or the the crown 309 really the best im guna get? is there a silicon with less tension than 25?

    There is a reason why no k sticks have less than 25 tension you cant benefit from the grommit, switches, battop if its too light. i would try a fanta stick and spend some good time with it to actually get a true experience of k stick vs balltop as mentioned it is a learning curve to adjust to takes time if you was comming from balltop

  • m_abdalla3m_abdalla3 Joined: Posts: 14
    edited November 4
    0SGStzZ.jpg
    iJ1GIor.jpg

    Cheers to everyone for their advice on this mini project i did. It went perfect thanks to some tips given.

    As for actual testing, did a quick 30-1hour test on a few setups

    Normal sized Waz shaft
    my favourite so far is 15.5 actuator, green gromett (the original soft one i had trouble with some dash combos e.g kaz electric, delay hopkick, screw, run b41, dash df 14)
    Original gromett is around same tension, maby a tad abit harder, but the diagnonals wernt as great (there are bigger holes on the corners of Waz's, but could be placebo or my inexperience?)

    Tried the 15 mm actuator, but preferred the 15.5 straightaway, also ran with all AM5, then decided to to use a A2 for down input. Feels like its more conistant, but yet again could be placebo or inexperience with the lever.


    Its safe to say that i hate having to keep unscrewing and rescrewing things to change my setups :(. Movement i found more crisp on the 309Mj with A3, but yet again ive put many hours into that lever. I didnt like the 35 gromett too much but willing to give it another shot on this setup...when im not too lazy. But the green seems my favourite and i've hardly broken it in.

    There is abit of a rattle which is abit irritating when letting go to neutral, is this normal? I'm so use to riding the colar on the MJ but slowly realizing i dont have to now which i like XD
    Post edited by m_abdalla3 on
  • LashfordLashford Joined: Posts: 7
    Nice work, the rattling could just be the slightly looser levers on the panasonic switches hitting against the bronze actuator. You could try removing the switches and if the rattling disappears it's probably nothing to worry about.
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,807
    m_abdalla3 wrote: »

    There is abit of a rattle which is abit irritating when letting go to neutral, is this normal? I'm so use to riding the colar on the MJ but slowly realizing i dont have to now which i like XD

    Nice job. That rattle is normal.
  • masked ridermasked rider Henshin! Joined: Posts: 1,262
    Out of curiosity, what's the reasoning behind using a metal actuator versus a plastic? Does it actually change the feel in any noticeable way?
  • LashfordLashford Joined: Posts: 7
    Out of curiosity, what's the reasoning behind using a metal actuator versus a plastic? Does it actually change the feel in any noticeable way?

    Probably just for durability, may have a slight impact on friction against the microswitch levers but nothing I ever personally noticed. All depends on the type of metal or plastic though, I've seen pictures of banged up soft metal actuators.
  • !!Sazabi!!!!Sazabi!! 50yen Joined: Posts: 588 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    is standard sanwa jlf shaft compatible with the kaze lever? i heard the red battop couldnt be removed on the stock shaft.
    mishima specialist..
    MGO3/MGO2R - baddle.monkeez | mosaic thump
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,807
    edited November 8
    So while SuperHwoarang has been making his lever design for Japanese sticks, I found another one which probably is the basis.

    http://cafe.naver.com/sanjuks

    img]
    !!Sazabi!! wrote: »
    is standard sanwa jlf shaft compatible with the kaze lever? i heard the red battop couldnt be removed on the stock shaft.

    I dont have the new one but if the Kaze lever is a semi offshoot of a Myoungshin lever, you can insert a JLF shaft after some minor adjustments to the bushing and actuator.
    Post edited by The Phantomnaut on
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 180
    edited November 7
    Interesting it looks like a kaze body. I still have no clue what body the kaze lever uses or if it's original.
  • syguysyguy Joined: Posts: 1
    Hello! New to this forum but have been a lurker for quite some time. I would like to ask if anyone who has the golden crown set with better actuators (or anyone really) would be willing to sell me the stock actuator for the Crown 309MJ stick. Don't want to get into details long story short I do not have the actuator anymore.

    I'd also be willing to buy pretty much any decent actuator compatible with the stick, doesn't necessarily have to be stock. I don't think that I really want to shell out money for the golden crown set as I reside in the U.S and shipping is kind of expensive.
  • SnubnozeSnubnoze Joined: Posts: 52
    @syguy

    I don't believe you can use the Golden Crown actuator on the Crown shaft. You're probably better off trying to get the original or doing a JLF shaft conversion.
  • noriconnoricon Joined: Posts: 4
    Does anyone know any maker that makes a dust washer for crown levers or an appropriate replacement? Somehow mine broke during transport :(... On another note there's a test version of the CrazyDongpal lever that hibal tested http://hibal.tistory.com/1077 . Designed by YoO (309 series/301-dx) Basically says while testing different actuators some had issues but all in all feels like a good lever.
  • LashfordLashford Joined: Posts: 7
    @noricon

    Nearly positive that crown dustwashers are the exact same size as JLF no shaft cover dustwashers, or focusattack has custom plexi dustwashers.
  • m_abdalla3m_abdalla3 Joined: Posts: 14
    edited November 8
    An update after using the Tae lever with golden parts more now.... 15 mm actuator and 9mm shaft is preferred. Was getting dashes (F F input) much better with smaller actuator and less missed inputs when doing continuous movement drills. The original soft gromett that came with the stick is my go to now, its harder than the green and i feel and is optimal for the return to neutral, especially since i find dashing harder on the Tae compared to the 309MJ, maby because the collar?. After all the messing around, the basic setup was my favourite. Was definetly a mission to try all the setups with a good amount of time. The dark blue gromett may be worth a try later.

    The down input V2 actuating force i really think it does make a difference, but i've yet to change it back to the AM5 to try that, but just my feel of the AF it would make sense to work better. I've threaded some of these switch nails quite bad :( Thanks to everyone again

    would really like to try a collared Helpme one day.
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 180
    @m_abdalla3 very close to my set up although I bounce between the 9mm and 8mm shaft but prefer the 8mm. As for the collared helpme in my experience I have found the mj easier to use overall and I'm not a fan of the latter.
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 133
    edited November 8
    I recently received a warning from Saint to stop using Panasonic switches. Apparently he found a problem with them but he wasn't able to tell me much more than that. Maybe he's referring to them no longer being produced? I was surprised to hear this though, considering he told me he was using AM5s only two months ago.

    I also bought an A2 switch which I'll swap the down direction on my Helpme v2 for to see how it works. Currently using all AM5s, I'll report back with results some time. Saint didn't really like the idea though, he said using all A2s or all A3s is probably better.
    Interesting it looks like a kaze body. I still have no clue what body the kaze lever uses or if it's original.

    He also said the Kaze and Taeyoung levers have the same body.
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,807
    edited November 8
    blankaex wrote: »
    I recently received a warning from Saint to stop using Panasonic switches. Apparently he found a problem with them but he wasn't able to tell me much more than that. Maybe he's referring to them no longer being produced? I was surprised to hear this though, considering he told me he was using AM5s only two months ago.

    I also bought an A2 switch which I'll swap the down direction on my Helpme v2 for to see how it works. Currently using all AM5s, I'll report back with results some time. Saint didn't really like the idea though, he said using all A2s or all A3s is probably better.
    Interesting it looks like a kaze body. I still have no clue what body the kaze lever uses or if it's original.

    He also said the Kaze and Taeyoung levers have the same body.

    Lots of people who are making their own levers, including airbaguy and some others, still have some Panasonic switches before they discontinued. Unless it's gonna burn my house down, or just get very worn out, I am still gonna use those switches.

    The Taeyoung and Kaze bodies are different. The Kaze body is the same IST design that's used in the FLF lever.

    Also the body in the picture is a custom mold.
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 133
    blankaex wrote: »
    I recently received a warning from Saint to stop using Panasonic switches. Apparently he found a problem with them but he wasn't able to tell me much more than that. Maybe he's referring to them no longer being produced? I was surprised to hear this though, considering he told me he was using AM5s only two months ago.

    I also bought an A2 switch which I'll swap the down direction on my Helpme v2 for to see how it works. Currently using all AM5s, I'll report back with results some time. Saint didn't really like the idea though, he said using all A2s or all A3s is probably better.
    Interesting it looks like a kaze body. I still have no clue what body the kaze lever uses or if it's original.

    He also said the Kaze and Taeyoung levers have the same body.

    Lots of people who are making their own levers, including airbaguy and some others, still have some Panasonic switches before they discontinued. Unless it's gonna burn my house down, or just get very worn out, I am still gonna use those switches.

    The Taeyoung and Kaze bodies are different. The Kaze body is the same IST design that's used in the FLF lever.

    Also the body in the picture is a custom mold.

    Before any misinformation spreads, Saint didn't say to stop using them because they're discontinued, he just said don't use them. I conjectured that it might be because they're discontinued, but I was wondering if anyone else knew/noticed anything about them. Hopefully they don't burn houses down.

    I also don't have a Taeyoung to compare with so I can't confirm about the body, just passing along what I heard.

    As for the A2 switch for down, I'm quite liking it. It took a little bit of adjusting to be able to wave dash and electric like before, but my backdash cancelling was immediately better. I lost a bunch of the down inputs I used to get which made qcb motions, so I'm getting closer to a proper KBD as opposed to reverse wavedash. I'll probably play with it some more and see if there are any issues though, and determine whether or not this was just a one off.
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 180
    Been testing a modified fujin v2 build the past couple days. I'm using a soft red makestick grommet with myoungshin bushing and a bored the stock actuator to accommodate an 8mm golden fanta shaft. Overall I'm not really getting any missed inputs and it's not as tiring as a stock fujin although the throw is wider due to the smaller shaft. Now I'm in the process of testing different switches with it. I credit Phantomnaut for this because i got the idea when he said the green arcade lever has closer switch positioning than the taeyoung so I decided to try it with the fujin.
  • eyeamg0dlyeyeamg0dly Joined: Posts: 55
    edited November 8
    blankaex wrote: »
    As for the A2 switch for down, I'm quite liking it. It took a little bit of adjusting to be able to wave dash and electric like before, but my backdash cancelling was immediately better. I lost a bunch of the down inputs I used to get which made qcb motions, so I'm getting closer to a proper KBD as opposed to reverse wavedash. I'll probably play with it some more and see if there are any issues though, and determine whether or not this was just a one off.

    im learning to properly kbd with my new taeyoung. its crazy how much better the inputs are compared to both my myoungshin and helpme. I would sometimes get a down input when i release to neutral on those levers, so I would always revert to doing the pleb kbd method. i always thought i was just terrible at doing it and maybe I still am, but the taeyoung definitely helps alot. electrics on the tae are still inconsistent for me, at least compared to the stock helpme, that thing is an electric machine.
    Post edited by eyeamg0dly on
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 133
    eyeamg0dly wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    As for the A2 switch for down, I'm quite liking it. It took a little bit of adjusting to be able to wave dash and electric like before, but my backdash cancelling was immediately better. I lost a bunch of the down inputs I used to get which made qcb motions, so I'm getting closer to a proper KBD as opposed to reverse wavedash. I'll probably play with it some more and see if there are any issues though, and determine whether or not this was just a one off.

    im learning to properly kbd with my new taeyoung. its crazy how much better the inputs are compared to both my myoungshin and helpme. I would sometimes get a down input when i release to neutral on those levers, so I would always revert to doing the pleb kbd method. i always thought i was just terrible at doing it and maybe I still am, but the taeyoung definitely helps alot. electrics on the tae are still inconsistent for me, at least compared to the stock helpme, that thing is an electric machine.

    That's exactly the problem I was having. Interesting to hear the Taeyoung alleviates this to an extent. I'm tempted to pick one up to try it out now.
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 180
    edited November 9
    @blankaex definitely worth getting if you have a golden fanta kit. Ever since the release of tekken 7 I've tried the 309mj, 309 helpme collared version, taeyoung, fujin v2, myoungshin, kaze and if I could choose any one of those I choose the modded taeyoung. I've been testing so much to find the lever that is the most balanced. You know when you switch between levers and find that you do some stuff better but it's worse in other departments? With the taeyoung using stock grommet, myoungshin bushing, am5s with a2 for down (purely for speed), 8mm golden fanta shaft, 15mm golden fanta actuator I have zero issues doing anything. I'm talking cd both sides for a minute straight, kbd both sides for days, double/triple cd into ewgf, iWR.
  • eyeamg0dlyeyeamg0dly Joined: Posts: 55
    @zero_requiem does the myoungshin bushing make a difference? i am more or less running your setup on my tae and electrics have been my only complaint with the lever. i can do them if i go slow and really stress sliding from d to df but even then my success rate feels kind of random. when doing them at a natural speed, i will have streaks where i will hit 3-4 in a row, and then not hit another until several attempts. its just feels odd, especially when i compare it to the helpme, where i will have an above average success rate and don't even have to think about my inputs or timing.
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 133
    @zero_requiem Thanks for the info, very tempting indeed. Unfortunately I don't have a Golden Fanta kit, though. At the moment I'm using a 309 helpme with Golden Crown parts. I'll probably pick up a Taeyoung some time and possibly a Fanta kit somewhere down the line.
  • eyeamg0dlyeyeamg0dly Joined: Posts: 55
    i thought the stock tae was pretty good, i think it just needs the am5s mostly. the few changes to shaft and actuators havent made a big difference for me.
  • thomasbenderthomasbender Joined: Posts: 4
    Anyone with the new Crown buttons try opening the plungers? To my surprise, I have two different stems in my batch.
    Can't quite tell the difference when playing but you guys might have more insight (or more tools) behind it.

    6jr5uFw.jpg
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,608
    I brought that up a few pages back. In my case all except 1 button in the set of 8 I got had the stem that's in your jab button in that picture. The odd button out was actually dead on arrival when I got it and so I had to be sent a replacement, but if you're not having any problems then don't mind it.
  • thomasbenderthomasbender Joined: Posts: 4
    edited November 9
    I've actually had to RMA twice to FA. The second time they let me keep the defective button.

    Here's my defective button:
    omodbj4.jpg

    I tried to compare how the two buttons actuate. Maybe the button above is.. springier? It's probably placebo but I'm definitely curious to why there's two variants.

    EDIT: I used the search function and found your post @BolSadguy. I also looked up deskthority's page. If they reportedly perform the same, I guess I'll be ok.
    Post edited by thomasbender on
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,807
    edited November 9
    blankaex wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    I recently received a warning from Saint to stop using Panasonic switches. Apparently he found a problem with them but he wasn't able to tell me much more than that. Maybe he's referring to them no longer being produced? I was surprised to hear this though, considering he told me he was using AM5s only two months ago.

    I also bought an A2 switch which I'll swap the down direction on my Helpme v2 for to see how it works. Currently using all AM5s, I'll report back with results some time. Saint didn't really like the idea though, he said using all A2s or all A3s is probably better.
    Interesting it looks like a kaze body. I still have no clue what body the kaze lever uses or if it's original.

    He also said the Kaze and Taeyoung levers have the same body.

    Lots of people who are making their own levers, including airbaguy and some others, still have some Panasonic switches before they discontinued. Unless it's gonna burn my house down, or just get very worn out, I am still gonna use those switches.

    The Taeyoung and Kaze bodies are different. The Kaze body is the same IST design that's used in the FLF lever.

    Also the body in the picture is a custom mold.

    Before any misinformation spreads, Saint didn't say to stop using them because they're discontinued, he just said don't use them. I conjectured that it might be because they're discontinued, but I was wondering if anyone else knew/noticed anything about them. Hopefully they don't burn houses down.

    I will be at TWT Finals this weekend so if I ever find Saint outside of a match, I will ask him. I am also gonna try to buy Knee's Green lever over there but I heavily doubt it will happen because tournament.

    On a unrelated note, I emailed airbaguy about the Fujin lever recently. From our conversation, the original Fujin lever back in 2011 had a 7mm shaft. My assumption was correct when I was at Evo taking a look at Cyrox's stick. His Fujin lever looked different from other ones. The reason for the change from 7mm to the normal 9mm was to have arcade operators not worry too much about the wear and tear. Airbaguy finds the 7mm shaft fine outside of arcades, especially for Mishima players. I think he is looking to introduce it in the future. Next to the Taeyoung lever with Golden Fanta parts, the Fujin with the possible reintroduction of the 7mm shaft can be the next best obtainable thing to get Green-like performance.

    As for the SuperHwoarang lever, with the power of Google Translate, I think he only made a small amount of kits. While I thought it was gonna be sold on IST due to the use of the Kaze lever body, I think SuperHwoarang is doing this himself. I wonder if it will get wider support so we can toy with them.

    EDIT: I was on SuperHwoarang's stream and apparently he can't ship the lever kit outside Korea due to obviously high shipping prices. I was gonna use KoreanBuddy to help out in the order but it looks like they are currently out until the end of the 25th. For a moment I thought @marios was still in Korea but I guess we are out of lucky trying to get the kit right now.
    Post edited by The Phantomnaut on
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 133
    blankaex wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    I recently received a warning from Saint to stop using Panasonic switches. Apparently he found a problem with them but he wasn't able to tell me much more than that. Maybe he's referring to them no longer being produced? I was surprised to hear this though, considering he told me he was using AM5s only two months ago.

    I also bought an A2 switch which I'll swap the down direction on my Helpme v2 for to see how it works. Currently using all AM5s, I'll report back with results some time. Saint didn't really like the idea though, he said using all A2s or all A3s is probably better.
    Interesting it looks like a kaze body. I still have no clue what body the kaze lever uses or if it's original.

    He also said the Kaze and Taeyoung levers have the same body.

    Lots of people who are making their own levers, including airbaguy and some others, still have some Panasonic switches before they discontinued. Unless it's gonna burn my house down, or just get very worn out, I am still gonna use those switches.

    The Taeyoung and Kaze bodies are different. The Kaze body is the same IST design that's used in the FLF lever.

    Also the body in the picture is a custom mold.

    Before any misinformation spreads, Saint didn't say to stop using them because they're discontinued, he just said don't use them. I conjectured that it might be because they're discontinued, but I was wondering if anyone else knew/noticed anything about them. Hopefully they don't burn houses down.

    I will be at TWT Finals this weekend so if I ever find Saint outside of a match, I will ask him. I am also gonna try to buy Knee's Green lever over there but I heavily doubt it will happen because tournament.

    Yeah, please do. Very interested to find out why he no longer likes Panasonic switches. I thought they were great, and I'm sure plenty of others are of the same opinion.
  • RokwhoRokwho Joined: Posts: 45

    Been testing a modified fujin v2 build the past couple days. I'm using a soft red makestick grommet with myoungshin bushing and a bored the stock actuator to accommodate an 8mm golden fanta shaft. Overall I'm not really getting any missed inputs and it's not as tiring as a stock fujin although the throw is wider due to the smaller shaft. Now I'm in the process of testing different switches with it. I credit Phantomnaut for this because i got the idea when he said the green arcade lever has closer switch positioning than the taeyoung so I decided to try it with the fujin.

    took your idea and had a go at myn i found a 15mm stand off thing?? so i bored that to 8mm leaving the fusion one alone chucked in waz's 8mm shaft turned out really good and the performance is... Wow! cant belive how good it feels and i only been playing for about 30min but feels solid man. This has to be close to green lever setup? i haven't had a chance to order a tayoung yet but this setup is real nice.

    QqnPMDX.jpg
    52rBBrK.jpg
  • EndRantEndRant Joined: Posts: 247
    I've had bad experiences with the new crown buttons. ordered 8 and 3 were defective, they also stick a lot when they're brand new and took me a couple of weeks for them to feel smooth.
  • sinonicksinonick Joined: Posts: 43
    edited November 9
    @EndRant
    I second that, I have bought two 8packs of crown SDB-201 buttons (one from arcadeworld and one from focusattack)
    one of the packs had 1 dead button, and one that would get stuck every once in a while. i would have to press it with force for it to work again
    the other 8pack was ok. other than that the buttons have a distinct springy feel and i like them
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 180
    edited November 9
    @Rokwho awesome man and glad u like it! I've been thinking about getting that myoungshin for the actuator since Golden fanta actuators would damage the fujin's metal plate but just ended up modding the fujin's actuator because I have an extra fujin. Well if you're happy with that then don't bother getting the taeyoung unless you want and even wider throw range. This set up will be the closest thing to having a green arcade lever and the fujin's actuator is 14.9mm.
    eyeamg0dly wrote: »
    i thought the stock tae was pretty good, i think it just needs the am5s mostly. the few changes to shaft and actuators havent made a big difference for me.

    Stock taeyoung isn't bad but the stock actuator imo is absolutely terrible.
    Post edited by zero_requiem on
  • RokwhoRokwho Joined: Posts: 45
    well been a few hours at it and still happy gonna try some other grommits later see how that plays out
    @zero_requiem yeah i'll hold out for a while on the taeyoung as for my diy acuator if i knew what the hell this came from id tell you but got no idea just found it in my tool box i measured again on my digi guage and its actually 14.8mm so preety much ideal.
    Just out of intrest the teardowm pics of the green lever in this thread dont give any idication that the switches are closer than the taeyoung or am i missing something as theres no top plate and the original myoungshin switch mounts look intact on that lever as there not milled down for closer placement ?
Sign In or Register to comment.