Korean arcade parts discussion

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  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 205
    edited December 2
    @Nostromo21 an easy way to remove the e-clip is to use a medium sized stubby flat head screw driver. Use a corner of the flat head to remove e-clip by sticking it inside the tiny gaps and pry it out against the shaft. To put them back on use the flathead to push it in by simply pressing against e-clip with flat end.
  • LittleJimmy1983LittleJimmy1983 Darksakul for mod 2018 Joined: Posts: 941
    A few months late to the party here. I just ordered A3 microswitches for a 309mj that had the shitty A2 switches. Does it make a noticeable difference?
    End of one nightmare, prelude to the another.
  • mikeoharamikeohara Old Man Hands Joined: Posts: 292 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    are there any potential kstick options for a Qanba Obsidian?
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,848
    mikeohara wrote: »
    are there any potential kstick options for a Qanba Obsidian?

    You can use a Crown 309MJ lever. You might have seen Saint have a normal Korean lever on his Obsidian but what he has is a custom panel. He also has a mounting plate that can accept a normal lever but also adhere to the mounting standard.
  • mikeoharamikeohara Old Man Hands Joined: Posts: 292 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    mikeohara wrote: »
    are there any potential kstick options for a Qanba Obsidian?

    You can use a Crown 309MJ lever. You might have seen Saint have a normal Korean lever on his Obsidian but what he has is a custom panel. He also has a mounting plate that can accept a normal lever but also adhere to the mounting standard.

    thanks, bookmarked it on Focus Attack! I'll probably buy it after the holidays if I have any money left over from Christmas shopping.

  • LashfordLashford Joined: Posts: 18
    @LittleJimmy1983 Yes the diagonal zone becomes larger, with the a2s the diagonal zone is very small. a2s don't work well with short throw sticks like the 309mj.

    Also does anyone have experience with drilling or cutting out parts of the bottom center of a k stick? I don't like how much the actuator hits against it especially with the smaller golden shafts.
  • Nostromo21Nostromo21 Joined: Posts: 17
    I finally found a plier that is quite handy for removing eclip!
    Been experimenting with the GFM on my Taeyoung and so far the result have been really great! The 15mm actuator does wonder on the taeyoung! My diagonal is now really easy to hit, my IWS improved substantially! Thanks @wazwuz !! Will try the green setup later.

    But i am quite surprised as i am using the green grommet (45A), but it is much softer than my seasoned "soft grommer rubber i got from default Taeyoung. I suspect the default soft rubber from Taeyoung is 55A.

  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Fanta & Crown Project Joined: Posts: 427
    Nostromo21 wrote: »
    I finally found a plier that is quite handy for removing eclip!
    Been experimenting with the GFM on my Taeyoung and so far the result have been really great! The 15mm actuator does wonder on the taeyoung! My diagonal is now really easy to hit, my IWS improved substantially! Thanks @wazwuz !! Will try the green setup later.

    But i am quite surprised as i am using the green grommet (45A), but it is much softer than my seasoned "soft grommer rubber i got from default Taeyoung. I suspect the default soft rubber from Taeyoung is 55A.

    At the same hardness, silicone tend to feel softer than latex. Don’t mind about the shore/hardness rating, use the one you are comfortable with.
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Fanta & Crown Project Joined: Posts: 427
    StickNoob wrote: »
    24282367_10210881663097690_1166888362_n.jpg?oh=1720ed66a61dcd8746d2f4a8f76fdf2e&oe=5A24D4FA
    I found a "gash" on my grommet. is something like this enough to cause a difference? It's on the upper part

    Nope. For silicone the real danger is cut, beacuse silicone have low tear strenght properties, it can grow small cut into much bigger cut easilly
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • StickNoobStickNoob Joined: Posts: 31
    wazwuz wrote: »

    Nope. For silicone the real danger is cut, beacuse silicone have low tear strenght properties, it can grow small cut into much bigger cut easilly

    Oh. Then that is a cut then. If I bend the silicone too much it can get larger.
  • NGY4MNGY4M Joined: Posts: 17
    Hey there, i have never mod my myoungshin fanta before, now that i bought the golden fanta mod, what are the tools i need? Is a screwdriver and a flathead screwdriver sufficient?
  • HassunHassun Joined: Posts: 117
    NGY4M wrote: »
    Hey there, i have never mod my myoungshin fanta before, now that i bought the golden fanta mod, what are the tools i need? Is a screwdriver and a flathead screwdriver sufficient?
    A small flathead screwdriver or pliers to remove the clip and 1 or 2 cross screwdrivers to unscrew the screws on the body of the lever and the the lever itself from the arcade stick.
  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Fanta & Crown Project Joined: Posts: 427
    StickNoob wrote: »
    wazwuz wrote: »

    Nope. For silicone the real danger is cut, beacuse silicone have low tear strenght properties, it can grow small cut into much bigger cut easilly

    Oh. Then that is a cut then. If I bend the silicone too much it can get larger.

    Yes if it a cut. But i don’t see any cut on your pic. Only a chiped (clean cut) not open cut. So it is safe.
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • StickNoobStickNoob Joined: Posts: 31
    wazwuz wrote: »
    StickNoob wrote: »
    wazwuz wrote: »

    Nope. For silicone the real danger is cut, beacuse silicone have low tear strenght properties, it can grow small cut into much bigger cut easilly

    Oh. Then that is a cut then. If I bend the silicone too much it can get larger.

    Yes if it a cut. But i don’t see any cut on your pic. Only a chiped (clean cut) not open cut. So it is safe.

    24337555_10210892762135159_804740991_n.jpg?oh=eaed6a684981764e7e8890b9ef85942f&oe=5A270044

    sorry it wasn't clear in the picture. here's the cut outlined. you can actually open it up.

    it's all good I'm in the process of getting a new one
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,848
    Crown finally releases their Crazy Dongpal lever: http://hibal.tistory.com/1090

    Basically it's a modified version of the 303 lever based on his liking. I am gonna assume the actuator is different from the 303 and even the 309. The switches is a Gersung V1623A3 set. The grommet bushing is white which might not necessarily matter. It also uses the Infiltration lever's removable transparent tops; makes sense since the Infiltration lever and this one have the DX designation. Also the shaft seems to be normal diameter and is gold.

    Hibal seems to be using the MJ model, I do wonder if there is a normal version with the 303's wider funnel collar. Maybe we will wait and see either on Makestick/IST or whatever store that will carry it in the future.

    Chanel also installed one on one of his sticks. I think he still uses the TE2+ with the Green lever but I do wonder what he thinks of the Crazy Dongpal lever.
  • ChumpyChumpy Joined: Posts: 39
    edited December 4
    I browsed an old tekkenzaibatsu post from 2006. Laugh gave this information: "The kind of Fanta that I've been selling are the MyoungShin Fantas (aka new Fantas). These sticks have a short knob and a smaller throw. The possible colors for the knob are green and red. Black is getting super rare."

    I wish the color options where the same today :/

    EDIT: @The Phantomnaut I have a 303MJ but I only use it for spare parts. Is there anything different from the 309 except the actuator?
    Post edited by Chumpy on
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 205
    edited December 5
    A few months late to the party here. I just ordered A3 microswitches for a 309mj that had the shitty A2 switches. Does it make a noticeable difference?

    A2's are good switches as long as you are using small actuators. A3's are good on 309 because the actuator is very big but if you were to use A3's on a 14.5mm actuator it's going to feel terrible.

    EDIT: The reasoning behind why I suggest ppl to try A2 for down when using A5M set up is because with diagonals having a lot smaller range on a2 it makes cd a million times faster without having to do wider motions that you would normally do on am5s. This set up is best used on fujin v2, myoungshin and taeyoung. I don't recommend this on 309 or kaze lever.
    Post edited by zero_requiem on
  • AbevAbev Jack of no trades, master of none. Joined: Posts: 34
    Just got my Golden Crown parts after a mail mishap, and am loving the blue grommet/largest actuator/standard shaft setup. @wazwuz is a genius; thank you for making these sets!
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,848
    Chumpy wrote: »
    EDIT: @The Phantomnaut I have a 303MJ but I only use it for spare parts. Is there anything different from the 309 except the actuator?

    Aside from obvious changes, the grommet is 25A.
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 140
    edited December 5
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    yBoKy7x.jpg
    Perfect KBD on the Fujin, feels so good

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,848
    blankaex wrote: »
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol

    I guess Airbaguy glues them for normal versions unlike my case where they are removable. I guess I will have to glue mine.

    Also isn't proper KBD b, db, b, n, repeat as opposed to b, n, db, b, n, repeat?
  • NGY4MNGY4M Joined: Posts: 17
    edited December 5
    blankaex wrote: »
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol

    I guess Airbaguy glues them for normal versions unlike my case where they are removable. I guess I will have to glue mine.

    Also isn't proper KBD b, db, b, n, repeat as opposed to b, n, db, b, n, repeat?

    There are two ways of doing backdash, one, as you mentioned and the second, as he did. The one that you mentioned applies to all character while the latter way of doing it does not work with backsway characters.

    The second method uses b, n, qcb, n, b. One thing i found interesting is that he starts at d/b as opposed to qcb which starts at d. Well, i guess it works too i guess.
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 140
    blankaex wrote: »
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol

    I guess Airbaguy glues them for normal versions unlike my case where they are removable. I guess I will have to glue mine.

    Also isn't proper KBD b, db, b, n, repeat as opposed to b, n, db, b, n, repeat?

    Yeah, you're right. I guess I was letting go of the lever and my inputs weren't as clean as I thought.

    Also do you know what the tension of the stock grommet is on the Fujin?
    NGY4M wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol

    I guess Airbaguy glues them for normal versions unlike my case where they are removable. I guess I will have to glue mine.

    Also isn't proper KBD b, db, b, n, repeat as opposed to b, n, db, b, n, repeat?

    There are two ways of doing backdash, one as you mentioned and the other as he did. The one that you mentioned applies to all character while the latter way of doing it does not work with backsway characters.

    The second method uses b, n, qcb, n, b. One thing i found interesting is that he starts at d/b as opposed to qcb which starts at d. Well, i guess it works too i guess.

    That's wrong. Sway is qcb. I don't have any down inputs so I won't ever sway.
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,848
    edited December 5
    NGY4M wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol

    I guess Airbaguy glues them for normal versions unlike my case where they are removable. I guess I will have to glue mine.

    Also isn't proper KBD b, db, b, n, repeat as opposed to b, n, db, b, n, repeat?

    There are two ways of doing backdash, one as you mentioned and the other as he did. The one that you mentioned applies to all character while the latter way of doing it does not work with backsway characters.

    The second method uses b, n, qcb, n, b. One thing i found interesting is that he starts at d/b as opposed to qcb which starts at d. Well, i guess it works too i guess.

    If it works that's fine. I always assumed the reverse wavedash method is just a normal backdash cancel variant, not a true KBD.
    blankaex wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol

    I guess Airbaguy glues them for normal versions unlike my case where they are removable. I guess I will have to glue mine.

    Also isn't proper KBD b, db, b, n, repeat as opposed to b, n, db, b, n, repeat?

    Yeah, you're right. I guess I was letting go of the lever and my inputs weren't as clean as I thought.

    Also do you know what the tension of the stock grommet is on the Fujin?

    I would guess around the Shore A 50-60 range. They are tough but not too tough.
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 140
    NGY4M wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol

    I guess Airbaguy glues them for normal versions unlike my case where they are removable. I guess I will have to glue mine.

    Also isn't proper KBD b, db, b, n, repeat as opposed to b, n, db, b, n, repeat?

    There are two ways of doing backdash, one as you mentioned and the other as he did. The one that you mentioned applies to all character while the latter way of doing it does not work with backsway characters.

    The second method uses b, n, qcb, n, b. One thing i found interesting is that he starts at d/b as opposed to qcb which starts at d. Well, i guess it works too i guess.

    If it works that's fine. I always assumed the reverse wavedash method is just a normal backdash cancel variant, not a true KBD.
    blankaex wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol

    I guess Airbaguy glues them for normal versions unlike my case where they are removable. I guess I will have to glue mine.

    Also isn't proper KBD b, db, b, n, repeat as opposed to b, n, db, b, n, repeat?

    Yeah, you're right. I guess I was letting go of the lever and my inputs weren't as clean as I thought.

    Also do you know what the tension of the stock grommet is on the Fujin?

    I would guess around the Shore A 50-60 range. They are tough but not too tough.

    Reverse wavedash is a variant but that's not what I was doing. It's not as good as a proper KBD because you're vulnerable for 1 additional frame, in addition to not working with sway characters.

    It's interesting you think the Fujin stock tension is so high. I'll swap the grommet with my Taeyoung grommet then and see if I can feel a difference once it's inside the stick.
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,848
    edited December 5
    blankaex wrote: »
    NGY4M wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol

    I guess Airbaguy glues them for normal versions unlike my case where they are removable. I guess I will have to glue mine.

    Also isn't proper KBD b, db, b, n, repeat as opposed to b, n, db, b, n, repeat?

    There are two ways of doing backdash, one as you mentioned and the other as he did. The one that you mentioned applies to all character while the latter way of doing it does not work with backsway characters.

    The second method uses b, n, qcb, n, b. One thing i found interesting is that he starts at d/b as opposed to qcb which starts at d. Well, i guess it works too i guess.

    If it works that's fine. I always assumed the reverse wavedash method is just a normal backdash cancel variant, not a true KBD.
    blankaex wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol

    I guess Airbaguy glues them for normal versions unlike my case where they are removable. I guess I will have to glue mine.

    Also isn't proper KBD b, db, b, n, repeat as opposed to b, n, db, b, n, repeat?

    Yeah, you're right. I guess I was letting go of the lever and my inputs weren't as clean as I thought.

    Also do you know what the tension of the stock grommet is on the Fujin?

    I would guess around the Shore A 50-60 range. They are tough but not too tough.

    Reverse wavedash is a variant but that's not what I was doing. It's not as good as a proper KBD because you're vulnerable for 1 additional frame, in addition to not working with sway characters.

    It's interesting you think the Fujin stock tension is so high. I'll swap the grommet with my Taeyoung grommet then and see if I can feel a difference once it's inside the stick.

    Personally, it feels harder than a new Myoungshin. I used the lighter Golden Fanta grommets in the Fujin lever and felt pretty good for my hands. It sort of makes it a bit bouncy but I like it that way. Take note that I do prefer lighter tension. I have seen Lowhigh swap it out for lighter ones too.

    I will be getting my Golden Fanta Green set soon so I will test the shaft and the actuator on the Fujin. Since the the actuator doesn't have grooves, I don't need to worry about damaging the plate. I will compare that with a normal Myoungshin with the same Green set, GF switch supports and Panasonic switches.
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 140
    edited December 5
    blankaex wrote: »
    NGY4M wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol

    I guess Airbaguy glues them for normal versions unlike my case where they are removable. I guess I will have to glue mine.

    Also isn't proper KBD b, db, b, n, repeat as opposed to b, n, db, b, n, repeat?

    There are two ways of doing backdash, one as you mentioned and the other as he did. The one that you mentioned applies to all character while the latter way of doing it does not work with backsway characters.

    The second method uses b, n, qcb, n, b. One thing i found interesting is that he starts at d/b as opposed to qcb which starts at d. Well, i guess it works too i guess.

    If it works that's fine. I always assumed the reverse wavedash method is just a normal backdash cancel variant, not a true KBD.
    blankaex wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol

    I guess Airbaguy glues them for normal versions unlike my case where they are removable. I guess I will have to glue mine.

    Also isn't proper KBD b, db, b, n, repeat as opposed to b, n, db, b, n, repeat?

    Yeah, you're right. I guess I was letting go of the lever and my inputs weren't as clean as I thought.

    Also do you know what the tension of the stock grommet is on the Fujin?

    I would guess around the Shore A 50-60 range. They are tough but not too tough.

    Reverse wavedash is a variant but that's not what I was doing. It's not as good as a proper KBD because you're vulnerable for 1 additional frame, in addition to not working with sway characters.

    It's interesting you think the Fujin stock tension is so high. I'll swap the grommet with my Taeyoung grommet then and see if I can feel a difference once it's inside the stick.

    Personally, it feels harder than a new Myoungshin. I used the lighter Golden Fanta grommets in the Fujin lever and felt pretty good for my hands. It sort of makes it a bit bouncy but I like it that way. Take note that I do prefer lighter tension. I have seen Lowhigh swap it out for lighter ones too.

    I will be getting my Golden Fanta Green set soon so I will test the shaft and the actuator on the Fujin. Since the the actuator doesn't have grooves, I don't need to worry about damaging the plate. I will compare that with a normal Myoungshin with the same Green set, GF switch supports and Panasonic switches.

    I prefer a lighter tension as well. I'm interested in hearing your thoughts on all the things you have in store for your lever, maybe I can steal a few tricks.

    I also tried putting the Taeyoung rubber in and I honestly can't really tell if it's lighter or not. It just feels kind of mushy.

    Edit: definitely lighter. Still mushy though.

    In other news, proper KBD:
    P3Ghhv2.jpg
  • NGY4MNGY4M Joined: Posts: 17
    edited December 5
    blankaex wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol

    I guess Airbaguy glues them for normal versions unlike my case where they are removable. I guess I will have to glue mine.

    Also isn't proper KBD b, db, b, n, repeat as opposed to b, n, db, b, n, repeat?

    Yeah, you're right. I guess I was letting go of the lever and my inputs weren't as clean as I thought.

    Also do you know what the tension of the stock grommet is on the Fujin?
    NGY4M wrote: »
    blankaex wrote: »
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol

    I guess Airbaguy glues them for normal versions unlike my case where they are removable. I guess I will have to glue mine.

    Also isn't proper KBD b, db, b, n, repeat as opposed to b, n, db, b, n, repeat?

    There are two ways of doing backdash, one as you mentioned and the other as he did. The one that you mentioned applies to all character while the latter way of doing it does not work with backsway characters.

    The second method uses b, n, qcb, n, b. One thing i found interesting is that he starts at d/b as opposed to qcb which starts at d. Well, i guess it works too i guess.

    That's wrong. Sway is qcb. I don't have any down inputs so I won't ever sway.

    That makes sense, thats why i said i was curious as to why your method of backdash canceling consist d/b, b as opposed to most tutorial video that teaches qcb.
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 205
    edited December 6
    @blankaex it's not the grommet that's making it the tension feel like that. It's actually the oversized bushing and if I had to guess the grommet is medium fanta myoungshin. Even if you swap to a soft grommet and used the same one in the myoungshin and taeyoung it will still feel stiffer. Currently using a soft red grommet(from makestick) and myoungshin bushing in mine with 7mm shaft and 14.5mm actuator. The problem with using a myoungshin grommet on the fujin is there is a lot of play between bushing and shaft which results in a lot of wobble but I'm used to it so doesn't bother me. Currently testing between myoungshin bushing and fujin to see which is more accurate and better accustomed for mishimas.

    EDIT: The problem with using myounshin bushing is what i meant to say not grommet.
    Post edited by zero_requiem on
  • FighterboonFighterboon Joined: Posts: 4
    I recently have been playing with a makestick from an amazon seller (specifically this one right here https://www.amazon.com/MAKESTICK-Joystick-Controller-Fighting-Airback/dp/B01627TXT8)
    It was supposed to come with an airback (airbag?) lever but it seems to have come with the MYEONG-SHIN Fanta, it's the same switches and look of this one but with a white actuator instead. It does feel quite a bit more stiff than a JLF sanwa

    makestick.com/us/?menuType=product&mode=view&act=list&page=&searchField=&searchKey=&lcate=002&mcate=&scate=&fcate=&sort=&prodCode=2016052500006&searchIcon6=&searchIcon7=&searchIcon8=&searchIcon9=&searchColor=&searchSize=&pr_no=&searchStartPrice=&searchEndPrice=

    I've noticed that playing with it, d/b on player 1 side is way harder to do then d/f, in fact KBD is way easier on P2 side, is that just something to get used to?
    Also, there seems to be this weird feeling on the stick like its getting caught on something, it doesn't happen all the time but it is annoying, is that something that will go away in time?
  • blankaexblankaex Joined: Posts: 140
    @blankaex it's not the grommet that's making it the tension feel like that. It's actually the oversized bushing and if I had to guess the grommet is medium fanta myoungshin. Even if you swap to a soft grommet and used the same one in the myoungshin and taeyoung it will still feel stiffer. Currently using a soft red grommet(from makestick) and myoungshin bushing in mine with 7mm shaft and 14.5mm actuator. The problem with using a myoungshin grommet on the fujin is there is a lot of play between bushing and shaft which results in a lot of wobble but I'm used to it so doesn't bother me. Currently testing between myoungshin bushing and fujin to see which is more accurate and better accustomed for mishimas.

    Oh interesting, I didn't think that was the case because the bushing looked the same (as the Taeyoung's) at a glance. Let me know which combinations work for you, I'd like to know what makes the Fujin work. It's such a cool lever.
  • m_abdalla3m_abdalla3 Joined: Posts: 24
    edited December 6
    Got a few updates on my fujin v2. I used a different set of AM5 and I swear I could focus on the b/dB input much better than with the stock am5s I got. I didn’t give the switches another chance before changing them, but now somehow I didn’t have too much an issue with KBD on stock fujin v2

    With the fujin shaft, using the Fanta stock bushing works much better imo than the fujin bushing, made it feel less tension. Original was too much for me.

    I bored out the fujin actuator to fit the 8mm golden Fanta. Man this is a kbd machine and already I could wavedash much easier from the get go. I would accoasionally miss some diagonal inputs when wavesashing but it was ussually after prolonged use. Can’t wait to try the 7mm shaft.

    When using the golden Fanta shafts, the Fanta bushings (the ring inside the rubber) are a much tighter fit on them since the golden Fanta shafts bigger and fujin shafts are smaller. So the tension increased to how i was used to the taeyoung (the black rubber soft gromett). But since the switch placement needs much precise movements, my hands got sore quick. Instead i used the soft Makestick silicone gromett (red) with the Fanta bushing still, and this was perfect. When feeling by hand I would say it is equivalent to waz green silicone gromett.

    The soft rubber gromett (black) is somewhere between was green and blue tension if I had to compare, but I think this is better used on the original fanta or a taeyoung, but not with golden Fanta fujin
    Post edited by m_abdalla3 on
  • ykdykd Joined: Posts: 85
    blankaex wrote: »
    I tried the Fujin v2 I got from Makestick. First thing's first, the handle isn't removable. It came with AM5s and I think 14.75mm actuator and 9mm shaft. It always bothered me that they don't come with dust washers but I had a spare one lying around I threw on. The mounting plate also looked like it had been through a war so I swapped that with another one as well.

    I really liked the stock configuration, it's probably the most accurate lever I've ever used. My only complaint is that the tension is a bit too high for my liking. I'd heard of this before but I actually found it a bit strange, because when I took out the grommet to compare it to my Taeyoung's, they felt more or less the same, but the Taeyoung is definitely much, much lighter. Any insight on this? And suggestions on improving this? I may pick up the soft Fanta rubber from somewhere.

    yBoKy7x.jpg
    Perfect KBD on the Fujin, feels so good

    Also speaking of the Taeyoung, I got my hands on one recently which I also tried for a little while. It felt really loose and flimsy at the beginning but swapping the switches for A3s made a huge improvement and was actually quite solid. I imagine I would have a lot of fun with this lever if I had a GFM, but as it stands I think I still prefer my GCM 309-Helpme. Now I'm a bit upset because the Taeyoung made me want a smaller throw on my 309 but I sold the smaller shaft to someone else lol

    That mounting plate and the body are taken from a Myoungshin Fanta, and modified. Usually most Myoungshin plates look like that in my experience.the AM5s are a different model on the one you have, compared to the older ones as well, they likely operate pretty much the same but @Agieze has posted a bunch about the variations.
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,848
    I recently have been playing with a makestick from an amazon seller (specifically this one right here https://www.amazon.com/MAKESTICK-Joystick-Controller-Fighting-Airback/dp/B01627TXT8)
    It was supposed to come with an airback (airbag?) lever but it seems to have come with the MYEONG-SHIN Fanta, it's the same switches and look of this one but with a white actuator instead. It does feel quite a bit more stiff than a JLF sanwa

    makestick.com/us/?menuType=product&mode=view&act=list&page=&searchField=&searchKey=&lcate=002&mcate=&scate=&fcate=&sort=&prodCode=2016052500006&searchIcon6=&searchIcon7=&searchIcon8=&searchIcon9=&searchColor=&searchSize=&pr_no=&searchStartPrice=&searchEndPrice=

    I've noticed that playing with it, d/b on player 1 side is way harder to do then d/f, in fact KBD is way easier on P2 side, is that just something to get used to?
    Also, there seems to be this weird feeling on the stick like its getting caught on something, it doesn't happen all the time but it is annoying, is that something that will go away in time?

    Airbag lever hasn't been available for some time. I assume that the Amazon seller is also from IST but haven't changed the product name and instead used a Myoungshin lever.

    If you are new to Korean levers, there are things you definitely need to get used to. As for anomalies, that seems unusual. If possible, try to discover what the apparent problem is and we will try to help you.
  • FighterboonFighterboon Joined: Posts: 4
    wrote:
    Airbag lever hasn't been available for some time. I assume that the Amazon seller is also from IST but haven't changed the product name and instead used a Myoungshin lever.

    If you are new to Korean levers, there are things you definitely need to get used to. As for anomalies, that seems unusual. If possible, try to discover what the apparent problem is and we will try to help you.

    Oh I didn't realize that, does the company that make them gone out of business or something?

    Yeah I'm not sure with the thing is, it's like a small hitch like the lever is slightly catching on something. It's not getting in the way or anything, should I open the lever to see if anything is wrong?
  • NGY4MNGY4M Joined: Posts: 17
    Btw, i encountered this problem the other day where only one of the USB port of the PS4 works with my etokki stick rev7. I tried it with other ps4 and the result is still the same. I cant remember it being which side, but it was either the left or the right usb port. Yes, i have already updated to the latest brooke firmware. Anybody has a clue as to this problem?
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,848
    Looks like Yo-o did an interesting video with the Crazy Dongpal lever. He used an e-clip to expand the height of the shaft and the top. I am gonna experiment with Golden Fanta parts tomorrrow if this trick also works on that.



    Also @wazwuz, I should be getting the parts tomorrow because the delivery attempt came after I left for work.
    NGY4M wrote: »
    Btw, i encountered this problem the other day where only one of the USB port of the PS4 works with my etokki stick rev7. I tried it with other ps4 and the result is still the same. I cant remember it being which side, but it was either the left or the right usb port. Yes, i have already updated to the latest brooke firmware. Anybody has a clue as to this problem?

    Has this been a recent issue? Maybe the port is messing up?
    wrote:
    Airbag lever hasn't been available for some time. I assume that the Amazon seller is also from IST but haven't changed the product name and instead used a Myoungshin lever.

    If you are new to Korean levers, there are things you definitely need to get used to. As for anomalies, that seems unusual. If possible, try to discover what the apparent problem is and we will try to help you.

    Oh I didn't realize that, does the company that make them gone out of business or something?

    Yeah I'm not sure with the thing is, it's like a small hitch like the lever is slightly catching on something. It's not getting in the way or anything, should I open the lever to see if anything is wrong?

    The reason was that they don't can't get the switches for it. Personally I would open it to see if it's debris or something.
  • NGY4MNGY4M Joined: Posts: 17
    edited December 6
    Hey guys ,my gfm mod just arrived and i just realized, two of my casing etokki screw is spoilt. Meaning, i can't unscrew it as the hole is messed up. What do i do? I have never opened my case before. And the condition was terrible before i even attempted to unscrew it. The rest were fine.
    NVM, I fixed it.
    Post edited by NGY4M on
  • ChumpyChumpy Joined: Posts: 39
    6F1RBG6.png

    Anyone know if this shaft uses Fanta specification (fit in myoungshin/taeyoung) or Crown (309)?
    I really want a green shaft for my fanta.
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